# Moving from bowl to filtered tank



## babydollkate22 (Aug 24, 2014)

I have a betta in a one gallon bowl right now. I do partial water changes every other day and then once a week, I change it completely, rinse everything, wipe down the inside of the bowl, and put in new water. It hasn't bothered me at all to do this, but we have a few fall trips coming up starting in about 6 weeks, so I was hoping to move him to a 3-5 gallon tank with a filter so I can just have someone feed him while I'm gone without worrying about the constant water changes. Right now I am considering a fluval view 4 gallon tank.

I've been reading up on setting up a new tank, but I have also heard horror stories of it killing the fish, so I want to make sure I understand. Since he's already living in a bowl, I can easily keep him there while I cycle the tank. I found some ammonia to do a fish less tank cycle, so that's what I was planning on. It looks like I add ammonia every day or so and test levels using a water test (which is also in my shopping cart on amazon) and it should go down to zero, then I will see nitrite rise and wait for that to go to zero, and then I will see nitrate rise, and then I can safely put the fish in. Is that correct? 

Do I do water changes while doing a fish less tank cycle or do I not need to? 

Do I continue to add ammonia every day?

I saw that it's good to have several things in the tank while it cycles to give the good bacteria a place to grow, like decor and plants. Am I understanding this correctly? Right now he has a castle hiding thing and a live plant from a betta bulb in his bowl, and those need to stay there with him for now, right? So should I buy others to put in the new tank while it cycles? When I eventually move him, cani move his existing things to the new tank?

Before I put my fish in after it has finished cycling, how do I prep the tank? Do I do a full water change and rinse everything? Do I ever wipe it down like I do with his bowl, or does that remove the good bacteria?

How do I maintain a healthy tank? I saw to do like a 10% water change twice a week or 25% once a week. Do I ever need to rinse the gravel out like I do now? It looked like I shouldn't move things around in the tank, but I don't have a gravel vacuum and the cost of all this is already adding up fast! Right now I rinse it through a fine mesh strainer. 

I also read to only change the filter once it is falling apart, and to put the new filter on top of it for a few days to transfer bacteria? Can anyone confirm this?

Sorry to have so many questions. I just feel like all the info is spread all over multiple threads, and I'm having a hard time finding everything I am wondering about. Plus it's hard to know what is accurate!

Right now my amazon shopping cart has a fluval view 4 gallon tank, a fluval heater to maintain 78 degrees, a thermometer, ammonia for fishless tank cycling, and a water test kit. I'm planning to add a bag of gravel and some decor and silk plants. I already have betta pellets and aquarium salt and blood worms and water conditioner. Is that it?

Last one. It's starting to cool off overnight, and my betta's temps at night are starting to drop from 76-77 to 74ish. Do I need something to warm it until his larger tank is ready for him?

Thanks SO much in advance!!


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## MrsSapphire (Aug 23, 2014)

I recently had a very similar post, and most people told me to skip the ammonia and go for a fish in cycle. You can use an ammonia binder to keep the water safe for your fish; everyone has told me to go with prime. Here's a link to the best article I found for it.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/fish-in-cycling-step-over-into-the-dark-side-176446.html 

That way your betta can be in his new home with all his new stuff as son as possible. 

For water changes check out Old fish lady's sticky. Everyone points you back to that.

If you stay with the fish less cycle, they have micro heaters that are designed for bowls. The one I just bought for Saphire says it will heat the water 5-10* from what it is now. I can tell you the brand when I do a 100% water change on Thursday.

I hope that helps a little.


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## babydollkate22 (Aug 24, 2014)

Thanks! I will look into that. I hope it's done cycling before my trip! 

I did read every single sticky. What is the "stir and dip" method of cleaning out gravel?


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## Aeon (Jul 15, 2014)

babydoll -- I dont have a fluval I have a top fin from petsmart thats 3.5 gals,,, I have a 5.5 gal glo fish and a 4 (large) pet keeper cage from petco --- I do 25- 50% changes every week or two no issues ....... I also have sponge filter in the keeper, and gravel sponge filters in the other 2 tanks

the only one so far I had ammonia issues with were the 3.5 (I just got the keeper set up saturday) with ur trips u'll be fine --- how long are ur trips gonna be - if u have time between I would do the partial changes then.


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## aselvarial (Feb 21, 2014)

honestly, a betta can easily do well in a fish-in cycle. One of my bettas has been through 3 different cycles in 6 months, and he's still with me. Prime is a great thing to lock up ammonia, especially if you leave town before the cycle is finished. 
A 4 gallon will probably need 2 50% changes a week until it is fully cycled, and then you can probably drop down to one. Skip the ammonia and add in some floating plants. Amazon frogbit is a very undemanding floater that sucks up ammonia at a pretty good rate. These are also fantastic for if you have to go on vacation before it cycles (i had to do 2 weeklong vacations while mine were cycling and the first time around they just had floating plants and filters. Came back and everyone was still doing well.) If you don't want plants of any sort, definitely get the prime.  Good luck on your bettas new upgraded digs!


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## kjg1029 (Jun 14, 2014)

yes, and id change 100% on a one gallon bowl every day- or every other day, not every week with partials, 1 gal is too small. Get the largest tank you can get, keep in mind a ten gallon will cost about the same, but would offer more water, therefore the ammonia\nirtrates\nitrites wont build up soo fast. Definatly get a heater, adjustable temp is the best to have so if it gets colder in the winter it will actualy keep it 78 degrees, its also handy if he gets sick and you need to bring up or lower the temp. Make sure for now his bowl is in the warmest part of your housec: goodluck!

Edit: you should look into east plants too such as anubis, water wisteria, water sprite, Java fern, Java moss and duck weed are pretty easy! they mostly just need a light


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## VivianKJean (Aug 20, 2013)

i agree that the fish in cycle is the easiest. Just set up the tank with the filter, add your fish (making sure you acclimate him), and then test the water every day. When the ammonia or nitrite reaches .25ppm - .50ppm do a 50% water changes. You will also want some bottled bacteria to get your cycle started quicker. I recommend Tetra SafeStart. 

Once your tank is finished cycling, then do one or two 50% water changes every week. You might have to do more at first but decrease the amount as the tank is cycled longer. 

When your tank is cycled you should never do an 100% water change. Once a month take out your filter cartridge or media and swish it in old tank water. Also you need to get a gravel vac, you will use that to clean your gravel. Make sure you clean your gravel once a week. However, don't clean the gravel until the tank is finished cycling. Every few weeks take out your decor and rinse it in old tank water.

the stir and dip method is that you stir up the gravel with your hands and then use a cup to scoop up all the waste. I do not like this method. 

when the filter starts to fall apart - you need to put the new one on for a few weeks (not a few days). 

The temperature drops aren't great for him but 74 isn't that bad. Once you get the new tank set up start the fish in cycle. 

Last, about your trip, do not have anyone come feed him. The main concern when you go away is water quality, not the fish not getting food. Bettas can go weeks to months without food so don't worry. When its time for your trip, do a 50% water change the morning you leave and then do another 50% water change the day you get back.


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## babydollkate22 (Aug 24, 2014)

Wow, thank you so much for the replies everyone!

Okay, so you are telling me I can do an in-take cycle.. I hope that "Blueberry" survives it! Here is my plan of attack. Please tell me if you see any flaws:

1. Set up my tank with gravel on the bottom, some decor with hiding places for my fish, and a combination of live and silk plants. Add the filter and water that has been treated with water conditioner. Put in the thermometer and set it for 78 degrees. Let it all sit for 24 hours to make sure it's functioning well and the thermometer is doing its job and all that.

2. Add my fish. Let him live there for a few hours to add ammonia to the water, then add Tetra SafeStart. I read that you shouldn't add SafeStart immediately because there needs to be ammonia present in the water. True? Also, does the combination of SafeStart and live plants mean that I don't need to add Prime to the water?

3. Test the water daily to monitor ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. I am planning to use the API water test kit. Do I need to test daily?

4. Any time the ammonia or nitrite reaches .25-.50ppm, do a 50% water change. Do I need to add more SafeStart then, or is that just at the beginning? Expect to do 50% water changes at least twice weekly.

5. Once the cycle is complete, ammonia and nitrite will measure 0. At this point, one 50% water change weekly is probably sufficient. How often do I need to test water after this point? Do I continue to add SafeStart when I change water, or is the bacteria living on the surface of things at that point sufficient? Also vacuum gravel once a week and rinse decor in old tank water. Does this mean when I do a 50% water change, I save that water in a bucket for rinsing off decor the next week?

6. Once the filter starts to fall apart, put another filter by it to encourage the growth of bacteria on the new filter. Leave it there for about 3 weeks and then change out the filter.

Anything else? And if anyone is able to answer the questions I have scattered in there I would appreciate it! Sorry to ask so much... I like to know what I am doing before I jump in.


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## Pandanke (Jun 16, 2014)

Okies, I'll try to answer as best possible:

1 - Yes, that's fine. 

2 - Yes, that's fine. You can even add it a day later. It tends to cloud up my water and the particles stick to things, so I prefer to dump it directly into the filter. Live plants are great, the more the merrier, but you'll want the Prime water conditioner not just for the removal of chlorine and chloramines, but because it generally makes the fish in cycle less uncomfortable for your fish by locking up metals, ammonia, and nitrites all which are not good for fishyfriend.

3 - Yes. Be sure to shake the bajeebus out of the nitrates bottles before using. 10 seconds each, minimum.

4 - Yes. More SafeStart wont hurt anything.

5 - Testing the water bi-weekly is a good habit for awhile, until you're established and comfortable with your tank, then you're able to do it more like weekly. SafeStart is fine to add whenever you want. Gravel Vac is good once a week. I don't rinse my decor honestly, just the old filtration media, I use the tank water that has just been taken out (so gravel vac water out into bucket, when done, remove filtration media to squeeze and swish, then replace it in there, discard water into my houseplants) 

6 - Yes. You can somewhat avoid this by providing multiple forms of filtration like adding heavy duty sponges such as from AquaClear, and their ceramic bio beads, as well as a sponge filter. I wouldn't bother with the cartridges, they cost a lot and don't last long. If you like the water polishing, you can always buy a big bag of filter floss for about 15$, it's basically a lifetime supply from Amazon.


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## hgual22 (Jul 18, 2014)

I prefer to do fish in cycles. They are hardy fish, I have never even had a fish get stressed by a fish in cycle. 

I do 2 partial changes every week when the tank is cycling, and then after that I change 50% weekly for my 3gal, 30% weekly for my 5.5gal and 30% weekly for my 10gal(divided with 2 bettas). I dont every tak anything out to wash, for the cartridge I just swish it around in old tank water to clean it. I vacuum the gravel weekly, but never wash it. It has lots of good bacteria you want to keep there.

Live plants will also help. I feel like I could safely skip a week of water changes because each of my plants have at least several live plants. Live plants take ammonia out of the water and help keep the water quality better. Plus fish love them and they are pretty.


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## MrsSapphire (Aug 23, 2014)

Babydoll,

Your plan is the best and most succinct explanation of set-up and fish-in cycle I've read. Major props, and I'm gonna use this as a reference to get my 10g going.


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## babydollkate22 (Aug 24, 2014)

I got my new tank set up two nights ago. I have about three inches of gravel on the bottom, four real plants that were recommended on here, two silk plants, and two stone decor items for my betta to hide in. I added the water, treated it with conditioner, set up the thermometer at 79 degrees, and gave it a day.

I decided to test my new tank water to compare with the old bowl water just to make sure it wouldn't be too much of a shock to my betta. I'm so glad I did! I have a water softener in our home that only treats our warm water but not our cold water, and that's my only guess as to why the pH on the new tank would have been so different!? I used warm water to fill my new tank, but I have always used cold water to fill my bowl and let it warm itself to room temperature before adding it. I decided to test the pH of the water straight from the tap, and my cold water pH is about 7.4, but the hot water pH is 8.6! I ended up emptying out most of the water from the new tank, filling it with cold water instead, turning on the heater to heat it, and then retreating it. I acclimated my fish and then added him to the tank late yesterday afternoon.

He's been in there for almost 24 hours. The filter is a little strong for him, but he's getting better at avoiding it or swimming through those areas quickly. He seems happy. His colors seem brighter and he's become more active.

It's been about 20 hours since I added him. I tested the ammonia level and it came back at .25ppm, so I added half of a large bottle of TetraSafeStart. I shook it like crazy to distribute the bacteria, but I want to save the other half to add when I do water changes. 

So now I am planning on testing the water daily to monitor the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. If the ammonia level rises above 0.5ppm, I will do a partial water change to get it back down and add more SafeStart. I'll also make sure I am vacuuming the gravel once a week. I'm hoping I can stay up on it enough that my fish survives. I'll be super sad if he doesn't make it!

If anyone has any additional tips or anything, please let me know! We want success over here at my house!


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## babydollkate22 (Aug 24, 2014)

Here's Blueberry in his new upgraded home! My son shared his Mater car in case Blueberry wanted to look at it.


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## VivianKJean (Aug 20, 2013)

you don't need 3 inches of gravel. 1/2 to an inch is plenty.


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## babydollkate22 (Aug 24, 2014)

I haven't has luck with much less gravel when I have real plants in there. They keep floating up! I read that 3-4 inches is good for planted tanks?


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## VivianKJean (Aug 20, 2013)

I've gotten away with 2 inches of gravel with live plants. 

The more gravel you add the less water your fish has to swim.


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## babydollkate22 (Aug 24, 2014)

So should I remove some? How will that affect the safestart I have already added?


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## babydollkate22 (Aug 24, 2014)

And how do I go about adding more water? I read that the water conditioners kill the BB. So do I just add more safestart every time I add water? Can it be done immediately? I thought you were supposed to wait close to 24 hours hetween water conditioner and safestart. If I have hugs of already treated water that I filled 24 hours ago, would that be okay to add without messing up the BB?


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## Pandanke (Jun 16, 2014)

You can remove about half of that, just bury your plants well.

I would not do it until you do your next water change.

Prime does not kill beneficial bacteria, chlorine and chloramines do, which is what Prime removes. 

You can add prime to tap water immediately, then add to your tank. I do it all the time.


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## VivianKJean (Aug 20, 2013)

+1 to Pandanke


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## babydollkate22 (Aug 24, 2014)

I must have misunderstood what I read! Thanks for clarifying!


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## babydollkate22 (Aug 24, 2014)

Okay, I have been testing my water morning and night because I'm paranoid. On the morning of 8/29, my fish had been in for about 20 hours. I tested ammonia, it was 0.25, so I added safestart.

That night, my ammonia was between 0-0.25, nitrite between 0-0.25, and nitrate at 5. This morning, ammonia at 0-0.25, nitrite at 0, nitrate at 10. This evening, ammonia still at 0-0.25, nitrite at 0, nitrate at 20-40. I'm planning on doing a partial water change.

Is it normal for nitrates to increase so quickly? Like in 24 hours go from 5 to 40?


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