# What do you think about this filter for a divided tank?(Sponge)



## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

Hey everybody!

Finally found what looks like a really nice sponge filter for cheap!
Just wanted to get your second opinion on this.

filter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056XVF82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A12IPMVN62L4AI

Some info and questions:

-Is going to be in a triple-divided 10 gallon tank- so that means >betta>heater and filter>betta

- I REALLY don't want a protein film, would the air pump bubbles keep the surface from being stagnant and give enough movement that i wouldn't develop a protein film?
-
-What is the best air pump, IYO?

-How do air pumps work? (I have never had anything in my tank besides a HOB filter and submersible heater). How much airline tubing will i need? What types of valves?

WHAT SHOULD I MAKE THE DIVIDER OUT OF? I want something that won't make my bettas visible to each other, while keeping adequate water flow and minimizing stress and tail-biting.

*SOME DECOR AND TAIL_TYPE PREFRENCES WILL BE IN MY POLL, IT IS MULTIPLE CHOICE!*

*help me decide how my divided tank should look!*:-D

Thanks again everybody!


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

WOOPS!!!! I forgot to click multiple choice, DARN IT!

*SO, just pick the one thing you REALLY want to see in my tank, and then if you would like, post the rest *

Sorry about that!


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## starrlamia (May 3, 2012)

I REALLY don't want a protein film, would the air pump bubbles keep the surface from being stagnant and give enough movement that i wouldn't develop a protein film?
-
-What is the best air pump, IYO?- i would go brand name, but they are pretty much all the same, for a sponge filter it doesnt even matter if it is adjustable or not, im not sure if it would be enough movement to keep away a protein film, they are pretty low key. Even the giant one I put into my 20l is barely moving the water


-How do air pumps work? (I have never had anything in my tank besides a HOB filter and submersible heater). How much airline tubing will i need? What types of valves?
they just pump air through the airline tubing and into whatever they are attach too, how much tubing you need depends on where you put the airpump, but you probably wont need too much, make sure to get a check valve in the pump will be below the water line in your aquarium, it ensures no water can back up into the pump (for example mine is next to the tank on the table). Not sure you will need any other valves then that. Though if you want you can buy a pump that you can attach two lines too, or get a splitter, and have an airstone and filter going to move the water around more.


WHAT SHOULD I MAKE THE DIVIDER OUT OF? I want something that won't make my bettas visible to each other, while keeping adequate water flow and minimizing stress and tail-biting.
maybe a black mesh? or two layers of plastic mesh to minimize the see througheyness (totally made that word up)

as for your poll, I would get two nice hmpks, but the decor is totally up to you, my 10g divided is gravel based with neon coloured plants lol, whereas my 20l is planted with sand/soil and way more natural looking.


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

starrlamia said:


> I REALLY don't want a protein film, would the air pump bubbles keep the surface from being stagnant and give enough movement that i wouldn't develop a protein film?
> -
> -What is the best air pump, IYO?- i would go brand name, but they are pretty much all the same, for a sponge filter it doesnt even matter if it is adjustable or not, im not sure if it would be enough movement to keep away a protein film, they are pretty low key. Even the giant one I put into my 20l is barely moving the water
> 
> ...



This was ALOT of help to me, and i REALLY appreciate it! Thanks for helping make my future divided tank a success !:-D

I think i will go with a small airstone on each side, what do you think about that? Will my bettas be okay with the subtle current? Any airstones you recommend?


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## starrlamia (May 3, 2012)

Any time!


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

XD Thanks!


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## LebronTheBetta (Apr 23, 2012)

- I REALLY don't want a protein film, would the air pump bubbles keep the surface from being stagnant and give enough movement that i wouldn't develop a protein film?
Yep. It'll prevent the protein film. My sponge filter makes sure it never comes back. 

-What is the best air pump, IYO?
Top Fin Mini Air Pump. I have it and it's perfect for a 10 gallon. I use a 3.5 gallon so I use a airline valve to control the pressure. It should be strong enough for a 10 gallon.

-How do air pumps work? (I have never had anything in my tank besides a HOB filter and submersible heater). How much airline tubing will i need? What types of valves?
You just connect the tubing to the pump and at the other end of the tubing, connect it with the filter. On the pump and you're good to go.  get as much as you want. You might want extra tubing since the current will get dirty.

WHAT SHOULD I MAKE THE DIVIDER OUT OF? I want something that won't make my bettas visible to each other, while keeping adequate water flow and minimizing stress and tail-biting.
I think craft mesh and dividers are the best homemade divider. I have no IDEA how to make them, though. :S

Sorry. I used the way Starr answered but I have different answers.  I need to use this way of replying another time.


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## SpookyTooth (Dec 23, 2011)

Sponge filters are absolutely fantastic. Air pumps usually come with different ratings (Tetra have Tetra50, Tetra100, Tetra200 etc) and each rating indicates how much power and air the pump provides. If you have a good read into a specific brand you should be able to determine if it's suited for your size tank.

Most air pumps come with an air control valve but some require you to purchase them seperately - definitely buy one if yours doesn't come with one! They'll reduce the air flow produced by the pump by blocking it which is great as it gives you complete control over how many bubbles your sponge filter will produce, it'll also stop a loud whistling that can occur in an uncontrolled air pump (learned from experience). Another valve you'll need is a check valve (also known as a non-return valve), it stops water being drawn into the air pump thus shortening its lifespan considerably. Most check valves explain how they are fitted but if you have any doubts then blow into the check valve and see which way the air comes out and fit it accordingly.

I personally recommend the Tetra series of air pumps (if they are available over there... http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-W...&qid=1344802448&sr=1-1&keywords=Tetra+airpump seems like it would be suitable) and I have the _exact_ same sponge filter! They are awesome! The dual sponge really allows for a lot of beneficial bacteria to establish.

Always get more airline tubing than you think you'll need - it's better to have too much than too little. I think they come in packs of around five or six metres, depending on brand. Some types of air tubing here in the UK help reduce noise created by the air pump (which should be minimal if you position it correctly) so if you can find silicone airline tubing that'd be ideal.

The set up of your air pump should be something like the following (though the check and air control valves positioning is down to personal taste and the arrows signify the airline tubing):

*AIR PUMP -----> AIR CONTROL VALVE -----> CHECK VALVE -----> FILTER*

If the air flow on your sponge filter is high enough you should reduce the chances of a protein film occuring but in a 10gallon that may prove a little difficult in some areas. If you wish to attach an air stone to your air pump you'll need to fit a T junction (usually bought in packs of six junctions: two Ts, two right angles and two straights). Make sure your T junction is placed after the check valve, you can then run air line from the T junction at both places to your filter then your air stone.

I think it's better to stick to one brand when it comes to air pumps, air line and accessories as they all are designed to fit a specific air tube size which can offer a tighter seal and reduce air escaping.

As for dividers I don't honestly know :lol: Sorry!


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

LebronTheBetta said:


> - I REALLY don't want a protein film, would the air pump bubbles keep the surface from being stagnant and give enough movement that i wouldn't develop a protein film?
> Yep. It'll prevent the protein film. My sponge filter makes sure it never comes back.
> 
> -What is the best air pump, IYO?
> ...


Thanks so much! I REALLY am liking this sponge filter and airstone idea!


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

SpookyTooth said:


> Sponge filters are absolutely fantastic. Air pumps usually come with different ratings (Tetra have Tetra50, Tetra100, Tetra200 etc) and each rating indicates how much power and air the pump provides. If you have a good read into a specific brand you should be able to determine if it's suited for your size tank.
> 
> Most air pumps come with an air control valve but some require you to purchase them seperately - definitely buy one if yours doesn't come with one! They'll reduce the air flow produced by the pump by blocking it which is great as it gives you complete control over how many bubbles your sponge filter will produce, it'll also stop a loud whistling that can occur in an uncontrolled air pump (learned from experience). Another valve you'll need is a check valve (also known as a non-return valve), it stops water being drawn into the air pump thus shortening its lifespan considerably. Most check valves explain how they are fitted but if you have any doubts then blow into the check valve and see which way the air comes out and fit it accordingly.
> 
> ...


THANK YOU SO MUCH! You really broadened my understanding on this topic, Spooky Tooth!:lol:


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## SpookyTooth (Dec 23, 2011)

That's my pleasure, I'm glad I could help  I really love sponge filters (although I've moved to something different) - the air pumps are also so versatile! If you get one more powerful than your tank requires you can even rig multiple filters to it.


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

SpookyTooth said:


> That's my pleasure, I'm glad I could help  I really love sponge filters (although I've moved to something different) - the air pumps are also so versatile! If you get one more powerful than your tank requires you can even rig multiple filters to it.


OMG haha i am so excited to get it! They sound AmAzInG!


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

The sponge filter will provide enough aeration for bacteria and surface agitation. The airstone would be just for show, if you and your fish like that sort of thing.

Light colored craft-mesh has less see-throughiness (harder to see through) than black. But with a double divider, it shouldn't matter. 

Where is that divider tutorial? Anyone?

That is an excellent sponge filter, but larger than it looks. Fine for a 10g and up.


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

Hallyx said:


> The sponge filter will provide enough aeration for bacteria and surface agitation. The airstone would be just for show, if you and your fish like that sort of thing.
> 
> Light colored craft-mesh has less see-throughiness (harder to see through) than black. But with a double divider, it shouldn't matter.
> 
> Where is that divider tutorial? Anyone?


Thanks so much! 

I would love the divider tutorial if anyone could find it!:-D


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## SpookyTooth (Dec 23, 2011)

Oh _d'oh_ I forgot I had the divider tutorial bookmarked! Sorry HAH!

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=40025


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

SpookyTooth said:


> Oh _d'oh_ I forgot I had the divider tutorial bookmarked! Sorry HAH!
> 
> http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=40025


NO problem! Thanks so much!:-D


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## teeneythebetta (Apr 29, 2012)

Well I'm a sucker for VTs. But I do like HM's 
Natural look
NLS pellets

Good luck!


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

teeneythebetta said:


> Well I'm a sucker for VTs. But I do like HM's
> Natural look
> NLS pellets
> 
> Good luck!


Sounds great! I was thinking the same thing! But i was thinking natural river/pebbles instead of sand, because i heard its a pain to clean, NLS pellets, and either a half-moon and plakat or plakat and crown tail


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## SpookyTooth (Dec 23, 2011)

I also vote for natural style!! I've had no issues with sand myself, it's just a matter of hovering the aquarium siphon just over the surface to suck all the debris up (I actually find it easier than gravel)... but you have to keep the stuff moving which is where the pain in the bottomness comes from I think. Keeping sand moving isn't overly difficult, just have to poke it a couple of times a week with a stick or invest in some Malaysian trumpet snails to do that for you (they burrow).

River pebbles are very pretty, we had a bag of larger stones and I made a cave out of them by siliconing them together with aquarium sealant! They're versatile.


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

SpookyTooth said:


> I also vote for natural style!! I've had no issues with sand myself, it's just a matter of hovering the aquarium siphon just over the surface to suck all the debris up (I actually find it easier than gravel)... but you have to keep the stuff moving which is where the pain in the bottomness comes from I think. Keeping sand moving isn't overly difficult, just have to poke it a couple of times a week with a stick or invest in some Malaysian trumpet snails to do that for you (they burrow).
> 
> River pebbles are very pretty, we had a bag of larger stones and I made a cave out of them by siliconing them together with aquarium sealant! They're versatile.


How beautiful! Ok, now you got me considering sand haha!

I just heard BeFoRe you put it in the tank its hard to clean....what type of sand do you recommend?

It won't clog the sponge filter?

Also, i am think about an aerator...would this give it sand some movement?:-D
Thanks!


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## SpookyTooth (Dec 23, 2011)

Ohhh sorry I misunderstood heh (doing that a lot today, very tired xD)! The original cleaning of the sand prior to putting it in the tank is yes... frustrating... a pain.... hard....... tiresome.......

Ooph. You just have to be persistant and patient with it, really. Dump it all in a bucket, put some water in it, swish it with your hands or a big stick, dump water out -- or you can have water gently flowing into the bucket and keep swirling the sand around while allowing the bucket to overflow.

Once the sand is in the tank and has had time to settle it shouldn't clog your filter up (unless it is literally kept in the sand itself). It might be worth putting as much sand as you'll need in your tank, covering it with a shallow layer of water (about 1/4 of the tank's capacity), swishing it all up then draining it repeatedly, this'll probably be quicker (albeit a bit more painstaking) than the other method as you'll only rinse as much as you need.

The type of sand? I'm not really sure... I used a bag of actual aquarium sand (more expensive than other types but I wasn't sure what else was available in the UK) but I've read of others using play sand - it might be worth looking into the Planted Tanks section because lots of people who make NPTs seem to use sand (that was my original purpose as well).

The problem with aerators and using them for sand movement is that they will likely either clog or just cause the sand to create a cloud in the tank so the sand really needs to be moved manually (whether by stick or snail).


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

SpookyTooth said:


> Ohhh sorry I misunderstood heh (doing that a lot today, very tired xD)! The original cleaning of the sand prior to putting it in the tank is yes... frustrating... a pain.... hard....... tiresome.......
> 
> Ooph. You just have to be persistant and patient with it, really. Dump it all in a bucket, put some water in it, swish it with your hands or a big stick, dump water out -- or you can have water gently flowing into the bucket and keep swirling the sand around while allowing the bucket to overflow.
> 
> ...


Ok so areators are out. What about pool filter sand? I have hard it has a better grain size and dosent clog filters or create clouds because of it. Would this be a good sand for beginners? Also, I don't know if it matters, but I have really high ph and very hard water....could this affect my chemistry?


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## SpookyTooth (Dec 23, 2011)

To be honest I don't rightly know. I think some people use pool filter sand but it is high in silicates which can cause a diatom outbreak (though this isn't dangerous just a bit unsightly). Pool filter sand is usually something known as silica sand, an inert substance that shouldn't cause any problems in your tank at all. It's regularly used to mix into carnivorous plant soil because it doesn't leach anything so I would assume it's okay. Would be worth looking around for info on it though!


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## starrlamia (May 3, 2012)

i used playsand for mine, super cheap and you will have lots left over. I also didnt rinse my sand, it seemed like a waste of time to me. Sand is inert so it shouldnt effect your water parameters. 

My biggest suggestion with sand, is to use a plate in your tank when you add water, pour the water on the plate to break up the water and you will get minimal cloudiness from the sand


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## MyRainbowBettaFish (May 9, 2012)

Thanks! I just really don't want clouds of sand everywhere haha!


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