# tank mates for my neon and danio in 30L?



## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

I am looking for recommendations for tanks mates for my lonely Neon and Danio in my 30L tank?


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

More Neon and Danio, they are both schooling fish and need to be in groups
R


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

+1 to rickey


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## jaysee (Dec 9, 2009)

If it's a 30 liter tank I would not keep danios in it. I would return the one you have when you get more neons.

If it's a 30 gallon then I agree, more of both is a great place to start.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

jaysee, where this person is, they can't return fish. They've had the fish for a while now.

Algarve, what happened to the Betta you had in there? And the Black neon?


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*tank mates*



lilnaugrim said:


> jaysee, where this person is, they can't return fish. They've had the fish for a while now.
> 
> Algarve, what happened to the Betta you had in there? And the Black neon?



hi ya.
yes my female betta passed away yesterday.
also as I have said in other posts, my water is quite hard to very hard and after doing some investigation I have found the best option for my tank in my opinion would be some more Neons to go with existing one and some nice bright coloured Platies as they thrive in hard water.


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## jaysee (Dec 9, 2009)

lilnaugrim said:


> jaysee, where this person is, they can't return fish.


Ah, now that I'm on the computer I see that.

I also see that it is in fact a 10 gallon tank - wouldn't get more danios.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*tank mates*



jaysee said:


> Ah, now that I'm on the computer I see that.
> 
> I also see that it is in fact a 10 gallon tank - wouldn't get more danios.



yes - doing the calculations its actually 38L (50cmx30cmx25cm)

which is better

so would you agree that for my hard water, Neons and Platys would be better?


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## jaysee (Dec 9, 2009)

I'm not one that pays any attention to water chemistry. If my memory serves me right, livebearers do like hard water. I seem to think that neons like softwater. It's easy enough to look up I suppose.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*tank mates*



jaysee said:


> I'm not one that pays any attention to water chemistry. If my memory serves me right, livebearers do like hard water. I seem to think that neons like softwater. It's easy enough to look up I suppose.



I will be getting a ph kit, got Ammonia and N03


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah Tetra's like soft water, blackwater really is where most come from. I guess if the Tetra has been fine then some Platies might be okay but I really would like to see more Neon's if anything, the danio can just chill.

Keep in mind that Platy's are poop machines! They eat everything and poop everything lol. It took me nearly two weeks of daily water changes to get rid of all the poop after I fostered a few for a friend....it was not fun. But as always, it's entirely up to you! Just warning is all ^_^

I would just get more neon's, while yes they do like softer water, if the water in your area is all pretty hard then the ones at the store will already have been acclimated to hard water. It's just an issue when you buy from someone with really soft water and then you throw them into hard water, they'll adjust but you might have issues with them since Neon's aren't that hardy anymore, of course depending on the area.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

I checked with aqadvisor and my38L tank with 5 platys and 5 Neons +1 danio would require a 38% water change weekly.

I am looking for brightly coloured fish to brighten up my tank


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

I would only get 3 Platy's. aqadvisor doesn't take in the fact that they poop a ton every day. Any algae eater or liverbearer poops like you wouldn't believe. If you can deal with piles of fish poo, then go for it but I certainly couldn't lol.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*help needed*



lilnaugrim said:


> I would only get 3 Platy's. aqadvisor doesn't take in the fact that they poop a ton every day. Any algae eater or liverbearer poops like you wouldn't believe. If you can deal with piles of fish poo, then go for it but I certainly couldn't lol.



I am looking to get some really bright coloured ones


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

AlgarveblueVT said:


> I am looking to get some really bright coloured ones


That's fine, doesn't change the fact that they poo a lot haha.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*help needed*



lilnaugrim said:


> That's fine, doesn't change the fact that they poo a lot haha.


I am going to do exactly that tomorrow

so its going to be
1 Danio
5 Neon
3 Platys

with a recommended weekly water change of 28%


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

I would change out 50% of the water instead. If you're adding that much fish so quickly, your filter won't be able to handle it all right away. So make sure you watch your ammonia. Did you get your testing kit for that too? Also, do you have a siphon yet? I think last time we talked, you didn't have one if I remember right? I might be wrong though lol

But with the addition of that many fish so quickly, you should do two weekly 50% changes to keep ammonia down so your fish don't get hurt. Do that for two weeks and your filter should be okay after that.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*help needed*



lilnaugrim said:


> I would change out 50% of the water instead. If you're adding that much fish so quickly, your filter won't be able to handle it all right away. So make sure you watch your ammonia. Did you get your testing kit for that too? Also, do you have a siphon yet? I think last time we talked, you didn't have one if I remember right? I might be wrong though lol
> 
> But with the addition of that many fish so quickly, you should do two weekly 50% changes to keep ammonia down so your fish don't get hurt. Do that for two weeks and your filter should be okay after that.



got ammonia test ket.

I will be adding platys one at a time, may have to purchase from different stores.
The neons i do hope to get together to help other one

but ok- 50% to start


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Sounds good


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*help needed*



lilnaugrim said:


> Sounds good



I finally getting it right- after all this time :notworthy::welldone::cheers:


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

lol, you still have a little learning to do but yes it's a better decision to get the platy's separately rather all the fish together. I do recommend waiting a few day's between each platy's. I know it can be boring waiting to get new fish but it's totally worth it so your fish stay healthy and not hurt!

The biggest part will be you checking your ammonia every day for at least two weeks with the new fish. I know, I know, it's a lot of work but trust me, it's very much worth it! Once you see ammonia come up above .25ppm, do a 25% water change or 50%! If it's more than .25ppm, definitely do at least 50% to keep your fishes safe.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*help needed*



lilnaugrim said:


> lol, you still have a little learning to do but yes it's a better decision to get the platy's separately rather all the fish together. I do recommend waiting a few day's between each platy's. I know it can be boring waiting to get new fish but it's totally worth it so your fish stay healthy and not hurt!
> 
> The biggest part will be you checking your ammonia every day for at least two weeks with the new fish. I know, I know, it's a lot of work but trust me, it's very much worth it! Once you see ammonia come up above .25ppm, do a 25% water change or 50%! If it's more than .25ppm, definitely do at least 50% to keep your fishes safe.



I have just completely emptied my tank and completely cleaned it and going to get some gravel....
so a clean slate.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

what ppm in mg/L??

.25ppm is that the same as 25mg/L?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Oh I'm not sure. .25 is the lowest on the chart besides 0 so I think it's the same then. 

Also, did you happen to rinse everything with regular tap water?


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*help needed*



lilnaugrim said:


> Oh I'm not sure. .25 is the lowest on the chart besides 0 so I think it's the same then.
> 
> Also, did you happen to rinse everything with regular tap water?



the same water from the tap, in other words borehole water-

I have half filled the tank ready for the gravel and plants.

I do have some water conditioner that i use to remove any heavy metals in the water.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

oh....well if you rinsed your filter and filter media and gravel and everything in plain tap water that means you just killed a lot of your good bacteria if you have chlorine in your water which most tap water does. Which means your ammonia will spike even more when you introduce new fish. You'll really need to watch your ammonia then and do the necessary water changes when it get's above 0. You should always be using your water conditioner unless you have good well water which it sounds like you don't.

Never rinse filter stuff and gravel/decorations in regular tap water, always use a bucket with water conditioned tap water in it so that you don't kill off your good bacteria.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

no not the filter - just the tank.

My tap water is from a borehole- so it has no chlorine.
its just very hard water


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Okay, then that should be okay then, sorry didn't know what a borehole was lol


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

its kind of a well.
A pump draws the water up from an aquifer.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah, I looked it up  that's cool then. Did you have a gravel vacuum/siphon to clean the tank with? That will help pick up the poop from the gravel so you don't have the empty the entire thing.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

oh yea... had an electric one with a small pump, but it wasnt powerfull enough , so the syphon was much more powerful and does 2 jobs in one( cleans the poop and empties the tank)


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yup, that's what it's supposed to do ^_^ cool.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

any more advice for me??


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

lol, nothing that I can think of for right now.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

keep me posted ^-^


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Sure


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*new tank set-up*



lilnaugrim said:


> lol, you still have a little learning to do but yes it's a better decision to get the platy's separately rather all the fish together. I do recommend waiting a few day's between each platy's. I know it can be boring waiting to get new fish but it's totally worth it so your fish stay healthy and not hurt!
> 
> The biggest part will be you checking your ammonia every day for at least two weeks with the new fish. I know, I know, it's a lot of work but trust me, it's very much worth it! Once you see ammonia come up above .25ppm, do a 25% water change or 50%! If it's more than .25ppm, definitely do at least 50% to keep your fishes safe.



I set the tank up and after acclimatizing the fish and putting them in the tank all together yesterday.
my ammonia reading is .25ppm
so will I have to do a change so soon after filling it and if so what %?
many thanks


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

I am looking for a good platy care chart or info.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

Day two of new tank set-up ( no changes in anything since yesterday)

Ph=7.6+
Ammonia= .25ppm
N03=0ppm
temp= 24 deg

it looks like the ammonia is staying at that level at the mo.
will do a quick gravel clean tomorrow and a 25-28% water change next monday.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Sorry I haven't been around, finals at college is a pretty tough time >.<

Yay fish! Oh and I saw that you said one may be a female? If you get some good profile pics of "her" I can help you out with that. But I will quote something for you if you need help with it. If not, then just disregard ;-)

"Sexing: There are many ways to sex a Platy (these sexing methods, by the way, can be applied to all livebearers), but there are two that are more widely used than others. The first method is to observe the shape of the Platy, Females will be longer, and also have wider stomachs (even when not pregnant) than males. The second method (and most accurate) involves observing the three fins on the underbelly of the fish. Female Platy's will have three almost identical fins, two a little further up the belly (closer to the front) than the rear, and with a male, the two frontal fins will be the same, but the aft fin will be much smaller, and pointed."


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*new tank set-up*



lilnaugrim said:


> Sorry I haven't been around, finals at college is a pretty tough time >.<
> 
> Yay fish! Oh and I saw that you said one may be a female? If you get some good profile pics of "her" I can help you out with that. But I will quote something for you if you need help with it. If not, then just disregard ;-)
> 
> ...



Thanks for that.
I believe its a she, coz i cant see the rear bottom fin to be elongated.
she is a yellow Hi fin.
Just got a new camera so hopefully be able to post some shots at some time.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yay new camera's ^_^ That's good


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

Shes pretty illusive .


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah that happens often when they're first introduced to the tank. It takes a while for any fish to warm up to you and realize that you mean's food ^_^ I've had my guppies for over a month now and the girl's are still a little shy, the boy's are happy though lol


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

Day 5 - Wednesday

Every thing is still the same- no changes to params.
Temp= 24 deg
Ammonnia= .25ppm
N03=0ppm
PH=7.6+


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Did you do any water changes? You can do 25% water changes to get ammonia down, you want that to be zero at all times. So do 25% and then after an hour, check your ammonia again, if it's still at .25 then do another 25%.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

Have not done any changes yet- I have been told by a colleague on here that its residual ammonia and no water change would lower it.
I have been testing for the last few days and the tank has remained stable , will do water change either friday or monday, unless there is a change in ammonia readings.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

Day 6- thursday
readings are:
ammonia=.25ppm( just done a 25% water change- will re test a little bit later than an hours time)
N03=0ppm
PH=7.6+
Temp=25 deg


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

Day 7- Friday
tank params:
Ammonia= .25ppm
N03=0ppm
ph=7.6+
temp=26 deg

going to give them a food free day tomorrow.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)




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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

Ammonia is still .25ppm, so I guess a stable tank


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Well no, that doesn't mean it's stable. That means either there's something wrong with your ammonia test kit, you may be reading it wrong or you have ammonia coming from your water source and the tank isn't fully cycled yet. If the tank was stable and cycled, the ammonia would read at zero.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*ammonia reading*



lilnaugrim said:


> Well no, that doesn't mean it's stable. That means either there's something wrong with your ammonia test kit, you may be reading it wrong or you have ammonia coming from your water source and the tank isn't fully cycled yet. If the tank was stable and cycled, the ammonia would read at zero.


test kits ok- its new and its API
I think someone else told me it was residual ammonia, so I guess that just whats in the water as I comes from the ground (borehole) perhaps


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah sometimes they sit on the shelf too long though and will still be defective if you buy it "new". You can test it by putting aside a cup of tank water and taking out some poo from the fish and put it in there. Leave it for a few day's and then test the water, I should be much higher than .25ppm, if it's still at .25 then you know something is wrong with the test kit.

Again, there can't be "residual" ammonia if the tank is fully cycled, you should not be reading ammonia at all no matter what.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

dont forget the tank may not be fully cycled- It was only fully cleaned and filled just over a week ago- will do another water change on monday and re-test.
There is not much I can do either than what I am doing.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

I know, but if it were cycling you would see an increase in ammonia and eventually a fall to zero while nitrite will spike up. The fact that you're continually reading .25ppm is either user error (I know it's hard to tell the different colors sometimes) or the testing kit is off is all.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

Test kits are too expensive here to buy on a continual basis- 
I have bought API, coz most of you guys use it.

I know for a fact its not user error coz I read the instructions.
It could be that its been on the self for a while, but then so could all the rest, and I could still be getting the same reading.

I think all I can do is do what I am doing and maybe later there maybe a change in the ammonia.
But I do do regular water changes, so on the side of things at least the tanks getting regular new water.


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## jaysee (Dec 9, 2009)

The residual ammonia is the ammonia that is feeding the bacteria. Even when our tests come back as 0, there IS still ammonia in the water - it's just at a lower concentration than the test can determine.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

jaysee said:


> The residual ammonia is the ammonia that is feeding the bacteria. Even when our tests come back as 0, there IS still ammonia in the water - it's just at a lower concentration than the test can determine.


Right, but if the tank was completely cycled, would the reading not come back as zero? In which we can determine, yes the tank is either still cycling or there is something wrong with the testing kit?

And Algarve, I know the kits are expensive, that's why I wanted you to do that test in the other cup just to make sure it's not the kit that is bad. At least then we'd know either way is all.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*ammonia reading*



jaysee said:


> The residual ammonia is the ammonia that is feeding the bacteria. Even when our tests come back as 0, there IS still ammonia in the water - it's just at a lower concentration than the test can determine.



I dont know really what to do but just do regular water changes as normal and keep testing in case of any increase.

suggestions welcome


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

That's about all you really can do, which you are doing well with! I just wanted to know if in fact the test kit was picking up perhaps some ammonium or just not working is all.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

ok...
thanks for that.
will keep an eye open.


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## jaysee (Dec 9, 2009)

lilnaugrim said:


> Right, but if the tank was completely cycled, would the reading not come back as zero? In which we can determine, yes the tank is either still cycling or there is something wrong with the testing kit?


The reading would come back as "0" because it is not an accurate test for concentrations lower than 0.25 ppm. The amount of residual ammonia in the tank is very low - it is consumed as fast as it's made. Any accumulation of ammonia indicates an incomplete cycle because the fish are producing it faster than the bacteria can consume it. Or an error with the test.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*ammonia reading*



jaysee said:


> The reading would come back as "0" because it is not an accurate test for concentrations lower than 0.25 ppm. The amount of residual ammonia in the tank is very low - it is consumed as fast as it's made. Any accumulation of ammonia indicates an incomplete cycle because the fish are producing it faster than the bacteria can consume it. Or an error with the test.



thanks for that info jaysee, so do i just keep doing what i am doing??


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## jaysee (Dec 9, 2009)

AlgarveblueVT said:


> I dont know really what to do but just do regular water changes as normal and keep testing in case of any increase.
> 
> suggestions welcome


Yup, keep up with water changes. If you can't get your ammonia under control than perhaps you new to improve your filtration.

Too, stop feeding - see if that helps.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*ammonia reading*



jaysee said:


> Yup, keep up with water changes. If you can't get your ammonia under control than perhaps you new to improve your filtration.
> 
> Too, stop feeding - see if that helps.


I see- I only have 4 juvenile neon- 3 platies and 1 danio.
cant really change filter, things may sort themselves out once tank has fully cycled.?
I am giving them a food free day tomorrow and once a week.


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## jaysee (Dec 9, 2009)

I would feed once, maybe twice a week until your tank is fully cycled.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*ammonia reading*



jaysee said:


> I would feed once, maybe twice a week until your tank is fully cycled.



brilliant....ok -
starting from monday, please go to my journals or here , and I will post reading with comments of my actions so you guys can see what I am doing.

I will start on monday and feed them only Monday and Sundays.
there is part of a holiday tab i left in the tank, but this is hard and dissolves slowly.


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## jaysee (Dec 9, 2009)

Since Monday follows Sunday, how about Sunday and say Wednesday?


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

*ammonia reading*



jaysee said:


> Since Monday follows Sunday, how about Sunday and say Wednesday?



will do


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

Sunday 15th tank params- with new feeding regime

2nd day without feeding
readings as follows:
Ammonia=.25ppm
N03= 0ppm
PH=7.6
temp=25 deg 

Question?: reading the instructions for the Api ammonia test kit, it says that 'Api stress zyme may help the cycling and increase beneficial bacteria'- please let me know if any of you have used this or if you would recommend it???


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

You can use it if you want. I'ved used to before but it wasn't for the initial cycle. It would be the same as using SeaChem Stability or Tetra Safe Start. They're all bottles of bacteria basically so there is always a chance of getting a dead bottle but it's the chance you take is all. So it's up to you.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

cool .....


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

Tuesday tank params.

just done a 25% water change and here are the readings, i have also included a pic to confirm ammonia read with others

Ammonia=.25ppm
N03=0ppm
PH=7.6
Temp= 21 deg
these reading are straight after water change


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

so after about an hour or so

the reading seemed a little better, but not quite 0ppm- still seems 0.25ppm
heres the reading visually


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

No, both of those are 0ppm ^_^ which is fantastic!


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

It doesnt quite show quite right in the pic- its more toward the lime green than the yellow.
more greener than yellow


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

It would be easier to tell if you stood it up with a white paper on the back with the card next to it, it's easier is all. But either way it's not .25ppm on the first one for sure, if anything it's like a tiny trace amount which is of course better than being at .25ppm. But regardless, it's good to continue to monitor it for this whole week as well just to be certain. Wouldn't want an ammonia spike to hurt your fish either!!! :-(


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

tomorrow I will try to stand it up against a white paper


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

so todays readings were
Ammonia as below:









N03=0ppm
Ph= 7.6
temp=25 deg

fish feed this morning


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

so today thursday 19th of December I have just read my tanks params are:

Ammonia as shown below:









N03=0ppm
PH=7.6
temp=26 deg

so still pretty much stable


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

A tank isn't "stable" or cycled if you're still reading ammonia like that. It's definitely not cycled because in post #75, that was where ammonia read as zero. So keep going with water changes whenever you test and see that ammonia is above zero. Any ammonia above zero is harmful to your fish.


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

cheers-
but is it trace or .25ppm??


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

This is definitely .25ppm

EDIT: in fact it looks a little over .25ppm as well, getting close to at least .40ppm


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

I have to be honest- in the photo its a little darker.
I am going away for a week on sunday so I will do a water change then and then when I return.

I am only feeding them sunday and wednesday.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah, I can tell. But I'm matching up on the colors still, it doesn't matter how dark or lit up the photo is, the colors still match up all the same


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

I does make a difference , coz if the photo is lighter so the colours will be.
but following your advice


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Trust me, I'm a Color Theorist lol


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

lol... I do trust you-
as you said they're real poopers


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah it's true unfortunately, otherwise they are beautiful fish! I love the painted ones and the bumblebee ones, absolutely adorable!


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

I have 2 red wags
and a yellow hi fin


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah, wags are nice too. I used to have three Sunburst Wag's but never had yellows. Did you ever get a camera to take pictures?


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

yeah but , they tell me they are camera shy 
a bit to fast for my little camera


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

will use the other camera tomorrow to picture the ammonia reading - as I have been using my mobile phone


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

So today Friday 20th of December- these are my tank params

Ammonia=.25ppm









(taken with new camera and correct exposure)

N03=0ppm
PH=7.6
temp=25 deg


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

So heres todays water params straight after a 25% water change

Ammonia=0-0.25ppm









N03=0ppm
Ph=7.6
temp= 19 deg.

here are some photos of the Bully boys( Reggie & Rony)


















and heres my yellow female Hi fin(Gertrude)


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

ok 
after getting back from holiday- 
I have just got around to testing my tank and here are the results

Ammonia=.25ppm










N03=0ppm
PH=7.6
temp=25C


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## TheSailorette (Feb 19, 2014)

I personally have a 20 gallon with 5 zebra danios, 5 glow light tetras, 3 black tetras, 2 otto catfish, and an African dwarf frog. They all do really well. I really like different types of tetras not just neon tetras.  They do well together. I do have 1 zebra danio that is a jerk. He picks on all the other fish so I got the black tetras because they were more grown up and bigger so it caused that jerk fish to stop for the most part. But other than that one problem it is a great tank. And I'm pretty sure your betta can survive with these types of fish!  IDK if that helps any. Good luck!


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## AlgarveblueVT (Jul 11, 2013)

I have just found another 3 platty fry apart from the previous 7


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