# What's wrong with my betta??



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

I am a new betta owner. My betta had been living happily in a bowl (over a gallon). When it came time for a water change, we changed the bowl (two gallons). I went to sleep and the next morning the new bowl had cracked. There was just enough water for him to survive. We cleaned and transfered him back to the old bowl. I know you have to wait until the temps are about the same, but we couldn't. The glass could have caved in. 

Ever since the transfer he has been acting weird. He clings to the sides of the bowl. And recently spit out some food. When he swims, he sometimes twitches. 

I think the transfers may have shocked him. Is he going to be ok? What can I do for him?

Please help.

Housing 
What size is your tank? A little more than a gallon
What temperature is your tank? 72-75
Does your tank have a filter? No
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration? No
Is your tank heated? No
What tank mates does your betta fish live with? None

Food
What type of food do you feed your betta fish? Aqueon Betta Food and Topfin freeze dried bloodworms
How often do you feed your betta fish? The Betta Food is every Monday and Friday (3 pellets). The bloodworms are a day after feeding (1 or 2).
Maintenance 
How often do you perform a water change? Every week/week 1/2 (This was the first one since we got him)
What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change? All
What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change? It is regular tap water

Water Parameters:
Have you tested your water? If so, what are the following parameters? no

Ammonia: N/A
Nitrite: N/A
Nitrate: N/A
pH: N/A
Hardness: N/A
Alkalinity: N/A

Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed? Not at all
How has your betta fish's behavior changed? somewhat..
When did you start noticing the symptoms? after the transfer
Have you started treating your fish? If so, how? no
Does your fish have any history of being ill? no
How old is your fish (approximately)? we got him from the pet store a week ago soo.. im not sure.


----------



## frazier71 (Mar 17, 2012)

He's going to need a bigger home. Atleast 2.5 gallons you can get a 3 gallon critter keeper for like 10 dollars. 72 is a little cool. Bettas new 76-82 is good. Also a filter would be good too. Themes not much you can do but if anything is get him some stress coat by api are you using water conditioners like dechlorinator


----------



## frazier71 (Mar 17, 2012)

I just read the rest of your info you cannot use just regular tap water it really needs to ne dechlorinated. You should go to your local pet store and get tap water conditioner I use api but prime is great too and stress coat. Bettas need more than just a bowl to live in. They need hiding like a ornament and silk plants to be happy. There's a lot Bettas need. You can't listen to petstores like petsmart and Patco because many people do not know what they are talking about. You can get a 5 gallon starter kit for like 30$ at a petstore or even Walmart.


----------



## frazier71 (Mar 17, 2012)

I'm not trying to be rude but there is a lot you need to know so ill put alot down and things you need for them

First Bettas like warmer temperatures 78-82. The water needs to be dechlorinate or It will hurt them. This means every water change it needs to be done before you put the water back in the tank. Bettas need a tank when doing a water change you need to get the water as close to the temperature as the tank as possible or your Betta an go into shock. Atleast 3 gallons 5 is optimal to be happy with lot of hiding spots. Heaters are a must adjustable are preferred but I like the preset aqeon one it holds my tanks ay 78 on and filters are good Bettas do not like currents so get one adjustable flow or you can baffle with a water bottle. It's easy just Google it. If you have a filter you don't have to do water changes as often. I do 2 30% changes a week and they are all fine and happy. Bettas should be fed 6 days a week fasting one day. 1 or 2 pellets 2 times a day is good. Blood worms are treats only. Be careful to not over feed or constipation can occur. Some things to have on hand are aquarium salt, epsom salt (no color or scent) stress coat is wonderful helps aid fin repair. And I like to have ick meds on hand just incase of out break. But that's just me. I recommend you get him a bigger tank with heated dechlorinated water ASAP.


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Thank you for your help! I checked the water temp and it is at 66 degrees. I know this is not right. I got him a bigger tank but I am hesitant about transfering him again. He has been through a lot. 

Do you think he is just cold?


----------



## Luimeril (Dec 29, 2010)

actually, i'm not trying to be rude, but anything over a gallon is good. there's betta bowl heaters out there now that heat tanks a gallon and up, so even a gallon is okay. not GREAT, but better than nothing.

i do agree that he needs conditioner. i use Prime. i've had my smal bottle for just over a year, and even having 12 bettas in the house and a 10 gallon, it's only half-gone. Stress Coat + is great, and has aloe, which is good for them.

since you couldn't acclimate him, though, he might be in shock. what do you usually use to acclimate him? i used to use the cups they come in, but recently have been using those half-gallon 'betta tanks' that someone gave me.


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

There was no time to acclimate him so I had to transfer him right away because our new bowl had cracked and water was pouring out of it. 

I'm not sure if he is in shock or not. Right now the temp of the water is 67. He is not clinging to the side as much.


----------



## frazier71 (Mar 17, 2012)

A gallon is just okay they really won't thrive. 5 gallon is optimal.


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

he can be in shock. If you can, slowly increase the temperature... if you lack a heater atm, place him higher, in a warmer room... not too close to windows or doors, or drafty hallways  Just keep an eye on him, and I do recommend tap water conditioner because chlorine can hurt all fish... And for some, it can kill them. Lack of tap water conditioner may make him sick, lethargic, and dull colored.

Frazier, we all have opinions and there is controversy on size. A gallon is FINE, but 2 or so for heater reasons is better. But right now, they need to work with what they have.


----------



## Luimeril (Dec 29, 2010)

frazier71 said:


> A gallon is just okay they really won't thrive. 5 gallon is optimal.


pardon, but i beg to differ. i have a Plakat who, for years, didn't thrive in a 2 gallon. in her one gallon, she was active, grew, was never sick at all, while in the 2 gallon she was stressed, got ick, and stayed clamped.

and, not everyone can have a 5 gallon tank for their betta. i, am one of those. but, i try to give my bettas at least 2 gallons, but sometimes, it's not possible. sometimes, they have to be in something smaller. 

also, you seem to forget about breeders, who house their bettas, oftentimes in tanks as small as .5 gallons, and they never have tail biters, rarely have illness, and their bettas live long, happy lives.

this user stated that they had their betta in a 2 gallon, but it cracked. and that they have a larger tank, but they're scared to transfer him into it right now. so, instead of spouting that they need to be in bigger, how about helping them figure out how to help their betta with what's wrong?


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

I would like to thank everyone for your help. I did not buy water conditioner because the worker at Petsmart said they used water conditioner and their bettas were dying.


----------



## frazier71 (Mar 17, 2012)

I know that but I ment eventually he should be moved to a larger tank. And by the time gravel and decor is added to the 1 gallon it leaves about .5 gallon for them to swim. And I ment it as they are easier to care for as in water changes in a larger tank. Not need to be done as often.


----------



## frazier71 (Mar 17, 2012)

And I private messaged Convo.with raspberry Betta. I was just informing them of what they should have.


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

I have raised the temperature to 68 degrees just by holding the tank. I'm only 13 so I can't get to the store until my mother gets home. I know he is cold, so I will purchase a heater.


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

Well do you have a book shelf?  Wrap a towel around his tank, and set him up high.... heat RISES.... so if you have him higher up, it'll be a littlw warmer 

The petsmart kills their fish because they never clean the tanks and some places do not cycle the tanks for goldfish and such... The tap water conditioner has NOTHING to do with it  You see, in tap water there's chlorine... tap water conditioner neutralizes the chlorine, and makes it safe for fishies


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Ok thanks I'll go get a towel


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

you're welcome  good luck with the fella!! And please, for all our sakes don't listen to the pet store employees... Most of the time they are wrong :-(


----------



## Luimeril (Dec 29, 2010)

if you have a desk lamp, that'll help, too.

also, Sena, there's not ALWAYS chlorine in tap water. i'm on well water, so we just have whatever metals, ect are in the ground. :I still need conditioner, because of that.


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

oops well I mean there's sometimes tap water :lol: but conditioner is usually a 99% must. I don't know many people who get away with no conditioner  I met one who claimed it, here, but her betta died within a couple months :roll:


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Thank you everyone! 

I'm going to get a heater as soon as I can.


----------



## bettanova2 (Mar 18, 2012)

Raspberry Betta said:


> I would like to thank everyone for your help. I did not buy water conditioner because the worker at Petsmart said they used water conditioner and their bettas were dying.


Maybe the amount of water conditioner they used has exceeded the amount of what it supposed to be :-?


----------



## BETTACHKALOVE (Nov 22, 2010)

Ok guys if there is no conditioner you can put betta temporary in the spring water. I used to do it before when i didn't know that there is not enough mineral for bettas. But it better and he will be fine until you can get water conditioner. I used deer park before. 

Also when you will go buy water conditioner Prime , Stress coat by API good, not sure what other brands are....

Good luck give us update.


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Ok I will


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

good luck


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Thank you In about a week I will give an update with pictures.


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

awesome!!!


----------



## FishyFishy89 (Jul 3, 2011)

frazier71 said:


> He's going to need a bigger home. Atleast 2.5 gallons you can get a 3 gallon critter keeper for like 10 dollars. 72 is a little cool. Bettas new 76-82 is good. Also a filter would be good too. Themes not much you can do but if anything is get him some stress coat by api are you using water conditioners like dechlorinator





frazier71 said:


> I just read the rest of your info you cannot use just regular tap water it really needs to ne dechlorinated. You should go to your local pet store and get tap water conditioner I use api but prime is great too and stress coat. Bettas need more than just a bowl to live in. They need hiding like a ornament and silk plants to be happy. There's a lot Bettas need. You can't listen to petstores like petsmart and Patco because many people do not know what they are talking about. You can get a 5 gallon starter kit for like 30$ at a petstore or even Walmart.


I totally agree with this.
He maybe suffering from the shock of the water change AND the chlorine.

I suggest getting a critter keeper, quality heater, and decholrinator. Also, I'd raise his water temp as well. I used to keep my bettas in 77F. Now I keep them in 80-82F and they are happiest.
Continue to monitor him closely and let us know of any change.


----------



## FishyFishy89 (Jul 3, 2011)

bettanova2 said:


> Maybe the amount of water conditioner they used has exceeded the amount of what it supposed to be :-?


I'm certain I always end up using a bit more conditioner than I'm supposed to. It does no harm. Unless you used like double or triple the amount your supposed to.


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

Agreed


----------



## Brendans (Mar 20, 2012)

Just wanted to commend you on showing such responsibility. Sure, some mistakes were made, but I think it's cool you care so much at 13. I was way too irresponsible back then to own a fish haha

Good luck with your fishy! 
(ask mom to buy some indian almond leaves off ebay for you  They help destress bettas i believe)


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

They condition the water, make it dark, and is awesome for bettas, so yes!!! =D And they are generally cheap.... 3.00 about for some, and up to about... idk..8.00 I've seen for a bag of them.


----------



## BETTACHKALOVE (Nov 22, 2010)

BETTACHKALOVE said:


> Ok guys if there is no conditioner you can put betta temporary in the spring water. I used to do it before when i didn't know that there is not enough mineral for bettas. But it better and he will be fine until you can get water conditioner. I used deer park before.
> 
> Also when you will go buy water conditioner Prime , Stress coat by API good, not sure what other brands are....
> 
> Good luck give us update.


EDIT:
I forget to write i used Deer Park spring water. I don't know if it make difference. If you still don't have water conditioner and will used spring water make sure it not purified water though


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

If you let water sit overnight, to two nights, it helps apparently too


----------



## Tikibirds (May 26, 2011)

> I would like to thank everyone for your help. I did not buy water conditioner because the worker at Petsmart said they used water conditioner and their bettas were dying.


Their fish die because their employees don't know how to care for them and never change the water. Never listen to any pet store employee, 99.9% of the time they have no idea what the hell they are talking about.

If you get prime conditioner, get the smaller bottle. The bigger bottle gives the dosage measurement for 50 gallon tanks and I have heard the smaller bottle has a dropper that is used for smaller tank dosage. Prime is more concentrated then alot of other conditioners and to much of it isn't good. 

I like stress coat the best, the cap gives dosae amounts for small tanks and it can help with fin regrowth. Plus it isnt sulfer based so it won't stink like prime. 

There are alot of conditioners out there. Seachem Prime, API Stress coat, Kordon Ammonia detox conditioner, Betta Bowl Plus by Aquenon?, Tetra betta water conditioner...



> If you let water sit overnight, to two nights, it helps apparently too :smile:


I have heard that it helps with chlorine and then I heard that it's false and that all it does is help with the "gas out"... removing those little bubbles of air that appear after a water change. IDK bu thats what I heave read on here


----------



## Luimeril (Dec 29, 2010)

Tikibirds said:


> Their fish die because their employees don't know how to care for them and never change the water. Never listen to any pet store employee, 99.9% of the time they have no idea what the hell they are talking about.
> 
> If you get prime conditioner, get the smaller bottle. The bigger bottle gives the dosage measurement for 50 gallon tanks and I have heard the smaller bottle has a dropper that is used for smaller tank dosage. Prime is more concentrated then alot of other conditioners and to much of it isn't good.
> 
> ...


that's right. :B i have the small bottle, and it says 'two drops per gallon', and the top is made so you can dose it, drop by drop.


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

Tikibirds said:


> I have heard that it helps with chlorine and then I heard that it's false and that all it does is help with the "gas out"... removing those little bubbles of air that appear after a water change. IDK bu thats what I heave read on here


Aren't the lil' bubbles oxygen? Mine get it a lot from the tap upstairs :/


----------



## BETTACHKALOVE (Nov 22, 2010)

Sena Hansler said:


> Aren't the lil' bubbles oxygen? Mine get it a lot from the tap upstairs :/


I think your are right.
Also i am pretty sure when you use aged water some chemicals evaporate. You have to leave water uncover.But i don't know for how long you have to age it. I use aged up to 24 hrs because it convenient for me. I mix aged water which is room temp and dechlorinated new warmer water to make sure i have the same temperature the fish already in.

And in the summer i don't have to even mix it because it hot.


----------



## Aus (Feb 3, 2012)

If the OP wasn't using water conditioner.. this would explain why the fish is sick? Chlorine poisoning. 

Aging water -used to- be the best way to remove chlorine. Now there's chloramines in most water, too, which aging does not remove, but good conditioners will. Aging water stabilises ph and helps prevent bubble disease, which is pretty uncommon but can happen. I like to age my water a few days as it bubbles badly sometimes, and the bubbles stick to my fish.. worries me...


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

I've never heard of bubble disease :shock: what exactly is it?


----------



## Aus (Feb 3, 2012)

Gas Bubble Disease (Nitrogen Narcosis)

Symptoms: Heavy gasping, loss of balance, fish seem more buoyant though they may not necessarily be floating at the surface. Upon closer inspection, small bubbles may be seen in the fins, and blisters may appear on the body, most commonly around the face and eyes. Bubbles and blisters may perforate the skin, leaving wounds on the body, or red streaks on the fins. Bubbles can also form within the tissues and blood, and can lead to organ damage and death.

Cause(s): Water which is oversaturated with atmospheric gas. The most common cause of this seems to be adding water of a lower temperature to the aquarium. Cooler water naturally holds more gas than warmer water, and when cooler water starts warming up it releases the excess gases. Tapwater, if added immediately after it has been collected, can also sometimes be oversaturated because of the screening on the faucet, which momentarily seperates the water into tiny droplets and allows the incorporation of excess gas. Algal blooms and an overabundance of plants can also over saturate the water if lighting is too bright or constant. Occasionally, a fault in submersed motors (such as those found in filters) can also cause an oversaturation of gases in the water.

A fish located in water that has become over-saturated with gases will only develop Gas Bubble Disease when the water begins to normalize its gas content too quickly. The tank and decor may develop bubbles during this process where current is poor. As the gas levels in the water reduce, the excess Nitrogen previously assimilated by the fish starts to expand, causing bubbles to form.

Course Of Action: Most sources recommend speeding up the release of excess gases in the water by increasing current flow or surface agitation, and turning off the lights to stop any plants or algae from.

Gently place the fish into another tank with more proper oxygen levels. If this is not possible, a 50% or more water change must be performed. Power filters should be turned off and removed from the tank, but free airstones or simple surface agitation help dissipate the excess oxygen into the atmosphere. Remove any charcoal from the filters for a day or 2. 

from:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/drosera1/fish/illness.htm#Gas Bubble Disease


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

hmmm interesting  I never knew about this! thanks for the info!


----------



## Ramble (Mar 13, 2012)

Is your little guy doing any better this morning?


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Brendans said:


> Just wanted to commend you on showing such responsibility. Sure, some mistakes were made, but I think it's cool you care so much at 13. I was way too irresponsible back then to own a fish haha
> 
> Good luck with your fishy!
> (ask mom to buy some indian almond leaves off ebay for you  They help destress bettas i believe)


Thank you so much. He is doing much better now that the water temperature was raised.


----------



## BETTACHKALOVE (Nov 22, 2010)

Is he eating and active? Also you have him in 1gall or a little bit bigger than that and you wrote that you change the water every week or week 1/2. For that size you need to do 1-50% and 1-100% a week or at least 100% every 4-5 days


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Ramble said:


> Is your little guy doing any better this morning?


Well, not exactly. When I woke up, he was clinging to the side-again. I checked the temperature and it was 66. I figured he was just cold. I then tried to feed him (he usually eats 3 pellets). But when I dropped them in the bowl, he didn't even attempt to eat them. When it got warmer outside, my mom and I took the bowl and put it outside. Thankfully, this slowly increased the temperature to 70 degrees. He is more active, but still rests at the top once and a while. I am concerned though because I tried to feed him again (1 pellet). He still took no notice in it and would not eat. 

Is something wrong?


----------



## Brendans (Mar 20, 2012)

Raspberry Betta said:


> Well, not exactly. When I woke up, he was clinging to the side-again. I checked the temperature and it was 66. I figured he was just cold. I then tried to feed him (he usually eats 3 pellets). But when I dropped them in the bowl, he didn't even attempt to eat them. When it got warmer outside, my mom and I took the bowl and put it outside. Thankfully, this slowly increased the temperature to 70 degrees. He is more active, but still rests at the top once and a while. I am concerned though because I tried to feed him again (1 pellet). He still took no notice in it and would not eat.
> 
> Is something wrong?


 well...you dont just raise the temperature once and you're done... you raise the temperature to 78-84 and keep it there for starters


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

We are purchasing a heater soon, which will raise the temperature. Whenever I put food in his bowl he would eat it without question.. now what's wrong?


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Brendans said:


> well...you dont just raise the temperature once and you're done... you raise the temperature to 78-84 and keep it there for starters


We are purchasing a heater soon, which will raise the temperature. Whenever I put food in his bowl he would eat it without question.. now what's wrong?


----------



## BETTACHKALOVE (Nov 22, 2010)

Did you add water conditioner or put him in spring water? Is there any visual symptoms on his body? Is he bloated?


----------



## Ramble (Mar 13, 2012)

It may be that he's just too cold and sluggish to eat right now. Just try to keep him in a warmer area of your house and like someone else said, keep a towel around his tank until you can get a little heater. If it's warmer in the living room or maybe the kitchen, move him there for now.
It sounds like you're trying your best...it's tough when you can't drive yourself to the store. Don't give up! Bettas can go a while without eating, so just work on getting that tank warmer and keeping the water clean and conditioned.


----------



## lilyth88 (Mar 15, 2012)

Also, remember his tummy is only the size of his eyeball. Feed accordingly.


----------



## Sena Hansler (Aug 24, 2011)

Hey!! I did reply to your message in pm, http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Betta...FZ4I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334377897&sr=8-1 is what I say to try... It's small for bowls and bowl sizes, 7.5 watts... Which I feel 10 watts is decent for a 1-2 gallon anyways. 

Although I DO have the "tetra 2.5-10" heater however I find it in the 10 gallon heats to 78 (when it is preset to room temperature technically...) and over heats small bowls now. I won't recommend it anymore


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Ramble said:


> It may be that he's just too cold and sluggish to eat right now. Just try to keep him in a warmer area of your house and like someone else said, keep a towel around his tank until you can get a little heater. If it's warmer in the living room or maybe the kitchen, move him there for now.
> It sounds like you're trying your best...it's tough when you can't drive yourself to the store. Don't give up! Bettas can go a while without eating, so just work on getting that tank warmer and keeping the water clean and conditioned.


Yeah, it is haha.

I actually got a heater today, and the water is warming up so I think he is happier.


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

I got a 7.5 watt heater today, I think it will solve this problem as he was probably just cold. I'll keep an eye on him though and see...


----------



## BETTACHKALOVE (Nov 22, 2010)

how is your betta


----------



## Ramble (Mar 13, 2012)

Yay on the heater! Good to hear he's starting to get more lively. Keep us updated!


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Thank you everyone with all of your help. My betta, Raspberry, is not doing very well. He has swim bladder disease (on his side and bloated at the swim bladder). And hasn't ate anything for 3 days. Also he has small holes in his tail. I did a 100% water change.

I am waiting and watching to see if he gets any better.


----------



## lilyth88 (Mar 15, 2012)

> *Swim Bladder Disease (SBD)/Bloat*
> •Symptoms: Betta has trouble swimming, maybe he can’t stay upright and can only swim on his side.
> •Treatment: This is not a contagious or fatal illness. If it isn’t congenital (aka a condition that he/she has had since birth), then it is caused by over feeding or feeding the wrong foods. Bettas will typically recover after a day or two of Epsom Salt treatments (1-2tsp/gal) and fasting. You can help prevent a reoccurrence by switching to a better pellet food, feeding less and offering a more varied diet. To make it easier for the betta to eat and breath, you can make the water shallower. You can offer him/her frozen daphnia (sold at Petsmart) as daphnia will help him/her pass stool. DO NOT FEED THEM PEAS.


This ^


----------



## ANHEL123 (Jul 21, 2010)

I would recommend everything that lilyth88 wrote but just want to add something. 
Also check if his scales raised. And check if his poo not stringy white or clear color. If your betta didn't eat for 3 days and still bloated you really need Epsom salt.
You can pre mix Epsom salt for the right dosage in one gallon jug for 2 tsp/gall shake make sure it dissolved. Let it sit for 30 min. You can buy Epsom salt in any pharmacy. You need to do 100% daily water changes. Not sure how big is his tank but you can lower the water like lilyth88 it will be easier for you to do water changes and easier for him.


----------



## BETTACHKALOVE (Nov 22, 2010)

+1


----------



## lilyth88 (Mar 15, 2012)

Do make sure the epsom salt is UNSCENTED with NO dyes.


----------



## FishyFishy89 (Jul 3, 2011)

lilyth88 said:


> Do make sure the epsom salt is UNSCENTED with NO dyes.


YES
This would help greatly


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Where do I purchase espom salt??


----------



## Bettafeathers (Apr 12, 2012)

You can usually get them at any grocery store I believe. If not, I'm sure a drug store would carry them as well.


----------



## Raspberry Betta (Apr 12, 2012)

Bettafeathers said:


> You can usually get them at any grocery store I believe. If not, I'm sure a drug store would carry them as well.


Thank you!


----------



## BETTACHKALOVE (Nov 22, 2010)

In Philadelphia any drug store carry it


----------

