# My betta is sick white spots maybe



## Nameaz (Jan 8, 2010)

I got my first Betta about 5 days ago and yesterday i noticed he had these little white spots on him, they were mainly on his tail fin ( sorry i don't know the proper name)They're really small and remind me off tiny eggs.

some extra details 

the tank he's in is 35-40 litres with a light and heater set to about 27C the tank has been cycled using water conditioner and Biotec Amrite Down. He has three other tank mates two kuhli loaches and one really small bristle nose (about 2.5cm) i haven't done a water change since i got them, i brought them all on the same day. The other three i don't see any spot on them. Also i heard that you cant treat with salt with scale less fish are the loaches and bristle nose scale less.

I'm new to this whole thing so m a bit worried. Ive only had him for a couple days but im really attached to him.

Please help :-(


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## AngelicScars (May 5, 2009)

A pic would help, but it could possibly be ich. There are meds you can use to treat them (I don't know what they are off the top of my head). I would quarantine and treat him. Then, thoroughly clean the whole tank and everything in it(that includes the gravel). If their are any live plants, they have to go. Also, all filter media has to be trashed. This is to ensure you kill all of the ich because it can hang out all throughout the tank. 
You'll have to start your cycle all over. I'm sure others can help with the meds!


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## Nameaz (Jan 8, 2010)

Thank you
I tried getting a pic but the camera decided to die just when i needed it.

question

Is their a way i can cycle the tank with the fish in it as well just because the only other tanks we have belong to my turtles the others would probably be ok but Nel (my betta) would likely become turtle food


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## MollyJean (Dec 29, 2009)

You can treat the scaleless fish. Kuhli loaches and bristle nose catfish have no scales, so the treatments don't work _as well_ on them, but they will work. They're also sensitive to salt, so you'll want to use the actual treatment. And don't forget to crank up the heat to about 85 while you're treating (about 2 days), it'll kill the Ich faster.

Keep a close eye on your bottom feeders, and if they don't clear up within a week, you'll want to treat them again.

And as AngelicScars said.. Clean EVERYTHING. Scrub scrub scrub. But no chemicals, just hot water, the hotter the better.


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## Zenandra (Nov 14, 2009)

Sounds like Ich, which thankfully is relatively to get rid of. Treat him with Ick meds (I find that Jungle Ich Clear and Quick Cure combined work the best!) And raise the tank temp to 80-82 it will kill the Ich faster! Good luck!


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## Nameaz (Jan 8, 2010)

Thank you, Mum said we can go to the store tomorrow and get some meds for him. apart form the spots he is acting normal but the shop said i can bring him in and they'll look at him as well fingers crossed


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## MollyJean (Dec 29, 2009)

Well if they are offering, and you don't have a water testing kit, at least take in a sample of the water, just so you know if you're doing it right. If you're going to take him, try not to stress him. It would be a good idea to keep his cup covered and make sure the car heat is on.

I've never heard of a pet store offering to look at a fish, though. That's a surprise.

Good luck with the little guy. He should be pretty easy to fix up.

What's his name, anyway?


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## Nameaz (Jan 8, 2010)

I decided to call him Northern Lights but i shorten it to Nel


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## Betta Fish Bob (Dec 31, 2009)

*Ich (Ichthyophthirius)*

I have been raising Bettas for 20 years, and have written a series of articles for EzineArticles.

Here is my most recent one on Ich (Ichthyophthirius) ...

http://ezinearticles.com/?Betta-Diseases---Ich-(Ichthyophthirius)&id=3406810

Here is a synopsis ...

"A young protozoan ich notices a betta (food supply) and bores into its skin. It begins to feed, until it reaches a large size, causing a small white spot to appear on the skin or fin. When you see the white spot, that is a sign that the bacteria is in a feeding stage. 

When it becomes fully grown, it covers itself in an impenetrable cyst, and jettisons from the betta's body, where it drifts along the tank's currents until it adheres itself to a plant, a bit of gravel or a rock. The tomant stage, inside the cyst, divides again and again, producing approximately one thousand offspring.

When these thousand or so bacteria become too big for their protective cyst, they break out to find more fish to feed on, and it is only at this stage in the ich life cycle where they are susceptible to chemicals. 



Formalin or copper sulfate needs to be kept at high levels in the aquarium for an extended period of time to be available when the cysts hatch. The tank temperature should also be raised slightly to shorten the bacterium's development time and give a much needed boost to your betta's immune system."


If you do not already have a betta care book, I recommend getting one, either an e-book or hard copy, and keep it handy.
Bettas get diseases much more readily than other fish, and need to be treated properly right away.


I hope that helps.


Beth C.


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