# Encouraging the Female to Spawn



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

Hello everyone!

Well days ago I got a really nice even finned HMPK super red pair from a really great person on AB. I released them to each other and today is the second day of them being together.

The male and female (when FIRST released) went head on flaring at each other then doing the "Betta Dance" (a snake like pattern of movement shared between either one or both the male and female bettas while in the process of courtship) in other words, they were wiggling back and forth. Now the female was nipped a few times (not severely) and she isn't Petrified of the male, but she is doing the natural swim away that they would usually do. She can hid under the heater for hours until the male chases her and tries to lure her.

The male has been trying to lure her to the nest since they were released so he is definitely ready. Now on the other hand the female is not convinced that he will be "Gentle." He gets frustrated because she turns her caudal to him and he chases her. This is normal behavior and yes I know they usually spawn in the matter of 3-4 days averagely, but I was wondering,

Long story short...IS there a way to encourage the female to spawn with the male?

I had somewhat the same problem with Korra and Draco. Korra was ready, but Draco was not trying to spawn. Now it is the usual other way around.

Has anyone had any experience with actually encouraging the female to spawn with the male? I have heard of using live foods, but all I have is BBS eggs and very few milimeters in a vial until I can find a way to get more.

P.S.
Sorry for writing a whole story!


----------



## Edifiler (Nov 28, 2011)

Have you tried Indian almond leaves? Im sure they'll help since their natural spawn inducers.


----------



## xrein (Jan 25, 2012)

yeh, could someone have a way to encourage the female to spawn??
cause i also have this kind of problem, my female suddenly release her eggs while there is no male, so now im trying to spawn her woth my male but she refuse -__-"


----------



## indjo (Jun 6, 2010)

The best way to encourage the female is good care - healthy and aggressive females will take bites lightly and will not hide for long....even if it kills them.

But once they're together, there's nothing you can do but wait. Good hiding places is safer for the female, but may make the process longer since the female can hide as long as she pleases. Less hiding places or hide outs where the male can go to should make the process faster but risky for the female.

@xrein: females releasing eggs is normal. I just got a female and it released eggs for about 4 days. She will flirt when ever flared ... but I don't plan to breed her anytime soon. Give these females a week or so (safer) while you condition her with (preferably) non worm live foods. 
Always flare your pair to see if they flirt swim. Sometimes they will immediately flirt swim when you toss them in the breeding tank. But not always.

Lately many of my girls (my own spawning) wont spawn. They flirt swim and everything, but they never get to the embrace phase. Patience is important because it may avoid their death. I mean don't force them to spawn. IMO it's better to make them want to spawn - healthy and aggressive.


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

@indo: Thank you. She was aggressive. She still is healthy. What is currently going on is that she would sit under the heater and he has been trying to lure her for three days now since the first day of introduction. She doesn't just swim off panting or anything, but she will wait until he is pretty close to turn her head and face her caudal at him. Then he gets frustrated and nudges her with his mouth open on her odd, but doesn't nip her body. Her fins aren't bad either so I would say that she is "stubborn" and he is one of the most "gentle" males I have had that were HMPK.

In this predicament, what would you do?

@Edifiler: I already have IAL in the tank with the IAL extract making the tank a nice amber color.


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

I am currently having this problem as well. The female is health and he has been very gentle with her. The water is tanned and she'll go check out the nest, but turns back part way and then he chases her. They've been together for two days I think. She has one little nip in her fin anal fin and that's all so I'm leaving them together. He is continually adding to the nest and chasing her, so that seems like a good sign. She was VERY flirty when in her chimney, so I thought they'd be quick. If they don't spawn in the next 4 days I'll re-condition and try again.


----------



## xrein (Jan 25, 2012)

@indjo: what do you mean in "non worm live foods?"
but i thought, live foods are best for conditioning a pair??
im feeding mine tubidex worms


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

They are! Worms are good, but things like brine shrimp, flightless fruit flies maybe, things that are more protein and fatty are best.


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

I turned the tank light on and now she follows him all the way to the nest sometimes but its still not quite working for some reason. He's still building away at his nest.

OK EDIT - Now she's literally head down under the nest waiting but he keeps chasing her off so he can build his nest. It's huge already. Oy vey bettas!


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

Better than mine, GT, she does nothing but run now... They were both happy flirting when she was in her vase in the tank. He was even working on a small bubblenest. Now all she does is run, and all he does is gently chase and flare, not a nest in sight.


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

GreenTea said:


> I am currently having this problem as well. The female is healthy and he has been very gentle with her. The water is tanned and she'll go check out the nest, but turns back part way and then he chases her. They've been together for two days I think. She has one little nip in her fin anal fin and that's all so I'm leaving them together. He is continually adding to the nest and chasing her, so that seems like a good sign. She was VERY flirty when in her chimney, so I thought they'd be quick. If they don't spawn in the next 4 days I'll re-condition and try again.


I have the exact same set up. I think yours will spawn soon since its only been two days. Also at least your female is actually going to the bubble nest. Mine isn't.

Though my male made a very big nest and I don't want to take him out. If I have to I will. He is always adding new bubbles to his nest though.

Would I be able to just take the female out to recondition or would I have to take both of them out separate from eye view?


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

I would remove them both. If the male is left in the tank alone for awhile it will become "his" territory and he will only attack the female. You could leave the tank as it is though, then when you put them back in it might be familiar. Or maybe it would be beneficial to move things around so it's like they can start over again? Hopefully someone else will chime in here. She keeps going to the nest but is a little skittish and swims away if he gets close at all. He is pretty gentle with her, just chases aggressively, but they've been together for a couple days and I see only a nip or two.

He has built the biggest, thickest nest I've ever seen. 

I'm trying to decide if I should leave the light on tonight, or turn it off? Usually I keep the lights dim for spawns but this pair seems to get the most courting done with the light on. It's so funny because turning off a light can be great for some bettas to spawn, and will put others on a stalemate, and there's no way to tell until after the fact. And by "funny" I mean maddening.


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

They keep almost embracing! So close, then she gets chased off. I hope they figure it out..


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

Good luck GT here is hoping.
My pair continue the chase and brake thing. Then the male swims to his spot in the plants... and blows a bubble or two then ignores the starting nest -__-
She just ignores him except to run...


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

Sounds like they aren't very compatible. How did you condition and introduce them? I had no luck with the hobbyist chimney method, so I use a modified shock method and it works well for me. This male has not stopped building his nest since he started a few days ago. I use petco betta lids for them to build their nest under. It sort of looks like a big bubble and it sticks well to the side of the tank. He keeps blowing bubbles in one area so it's just getting super thick lol.


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

I used a mixture of live black worms, frozen blood worms, and pellets, 3 times a day. For the last two days I didn't let them see other bettas, except each other for 5 minutes a day. (I half forgot about this step). I then placed him in the tank, and her in the tank in her vase for over night. He flirted with her, and blew a few bubbles, flirted, few bubbles, etc. She danced back at him so this midmorning I released her into the tank. He is being very gentle with her. No nipping, just flaring and chasing. She just runs. He takes breaks to go blow a bubble or two and to rest, then it repeats. 
By the time he goes back to blow another bubbles the others have popped.

Should I leave them over night? Or should I pull them? Recondition them, or use my next pair?


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

Do you have the tank covered and something for the bubbles to stick to? 
high humidity helps bubbles stick together. Conditioning sounds good. If I separate the female I always make sure the male blows some kind of decent nest before releasing her, just shows he's for sure interested to me. It sounds like they're kind of in a stalemate. If the females doing fine and the male isn't super tired, I'd just leave them. Maybe they'll figure it out. If this goes on for another day I'd scrap it, personally. You could try a different female with him if you have one.

Otherwise I'd just try the next pair. Sorry, it's really frustrating!


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

Okay, well he was blowing some bubbles for her. I have read of others who have had males start majorly making the nest when the female was introduced.

The humidity is medium, I have a ton of plants and 3 IAL in the tank. 
The male takes breaks an rests between the chases, but he seems fine. The female isn't even breathing hard. She doesn't even have a nip on her. As I said he is being beyond gentle with her.

I will begin to seriously condition my other two pairs. I have been only feeding them twice a day like I do all my bettas, just with the live food mix mentioned.

So I guess I will leave them over night to see what happens.

So my other two pair I am considering. Blue marble sibling pair. HM x HMPK (only problem is the female is in the sorority)
Also considering both mustard gas, male is emerald dragon HM the female is blackish CT.

Hey it may be a bit frustrating, but this is my first spawn and I am here to learn.


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

I would go with the sibling blue pair. Ct x anything other than ct can lead to messy fins which = hard to give away, sell, etc. Or if you are planning to breed for awhile, I say go ahead and then try to refine your fins from there. 

The sibling would probably be more likely to spawn and have similar genetics and 180 degree finnage, so they would produce more typically desirable fry.


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

Yeah I was thinking the sibling pair first. 
I do plan on breed for awhile, and actually make it a small side business. I have several LPS/LFS in my area interested in my bettas, and of course there is AB, here and friends haha. I know that is not going to be all, I am well aware I will need to cull, and be ready to work hard with it 

I am planning on doing the CT/HM cross at some point and am willing to work on the finnage. Take the best few pairs, cull the rest most likely, and sadly(but needed) Refine the fins. Its not often that one sees dragon scale mustard gas halfsuns.


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

Do they both have dragon scales or mustard in them? The problem is, you really don't know what you will get. By all means try, I'm not trying to discourage you, but getting a certain fin with a very specific color and full dragon scales is going to be a lot of inbreeding, probably too much, so you might want to be realistic about bringing in other fish as part of your plan.


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

They are both mustard gas, he isn't quite a full dragon. I can post some pictures of him if you like. I currently don't have good pictures of her.


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

Even though this is very normal and patientsis key, I must admit it is just a bit annoying and frustrating when you think they are going to embrace and he just runs her off.

I think I am going.to have to recondition them if they don't spawn by tomorrow night because it'll be the 4th day.

I wish my female would go head down, its the female that is really being the difficult one. Though who can blame her she is getting nipped and chased LOL. 

@GT: I have the same thing happen but she isn't at the nest. His nest is pretty big considering my other males nests.


----------



## indjo (Jun 6, 2010)

xrein said:


> @indjo: what do you mean in "non worm live foods?"
> but i thought, live foods are best for conditioning a pair??
> im feeding mine tubidex worms


If you plan to breed her, non fatty food (all worms contain more fat-tubifex, I think, is the worst) is better. Fat will clog (?) her egg passage. Clogged egg passage means longer process and harder for her to drop eggs during embrace. Try to avoid tubifex until the last few days.

Fatty food is good for fry - makes them grow faster but their fins will be rather small. This is most evident in HMs. I never get fins grow 2/3rd of body length if I feed tubifex for too long.

Non worm such as mosq. larva, fruit fly, daphnia, shrimp, etc. are much better. They provide the needed protein without making your females too fat. 

I have never paid much attention to this until recently - now that I'm working with PK's which has thicker body structure. Too much feeding (I mainly feed frozen BW) will make my pair too fat. The male will be too fat to embrace properly and the female will have a hard time releasing her eggs. Consequently less eggs get fertilized.
................

@Bettalover:
All you can do is wait. I would give them a week. If they remain as they were - no change in behavior, I cancel and take them out (just took out 3 such pairs). But another pair - I put together a few days ago. The female didn't look interested at all after I released her (she was very actively flirting before released). All she did was hide though she remained colored with bars. I was going to take them out this afternoon but around noon they began to embrace. 

Basically I'm trying to point out that you need to learn to use your better judgement because you're there to see what is actually happening. Example: sometimes I would let the female get beaten badly because I know she can take it. But I would NEVER advise that because I can't see your girl, how she's swimming, her behavior, etc. That's what experience teaches us - judgement.
...................

@Amph:
Mustard gas patterns in dragons IMO is easier than non dragons. For some reason dragons can have a blend of two different colors that doesn't usually show in regular scale. SO getting .... say a copper, blue, green etc. with yellow/orange fins wouldn't be that hard. Keep crossing the colors of your desire and you will come up with them in 2 or 3 generations - given that you pair the right couple.... the ones with compatible genes to mutate in a MG pattern.
.....................

I mostly keep the male in the breeding tank as I age the tank and water which could take 3-4 weeks (I don't want mosq. laying eggs in them). IMO territorial issues will be the same as when they're put in at the same time.... just my way of breeding


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

So it looks like my male is finally getting around to bubblenesting some.
He has a few tiny nest blown in the area he is currently hanging out. So here is hoping he is learning and will get working on it. The female has found a nice hiding spot under the sponge filter.
I am going to bed, and will check on progress in the morning.

Indjo - thanks for the info, that was great to read. I am highly considering doing them as my next pair. How far down the generation line do you think it will it most likely take to get good halfsun stock?


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

Okay. So I guess I will wait until Thursday to take her out if she doesn't spawn by then.

I also would be getting my other fish by round that time considering they will be sent out by Monday or tuesday along with another salamander pair I'm really looking forward to by wednesday.

I really want to have some nice super reds though as well. 

I also would really like to sell my 3 males that I bought, but don't know how to ship. I have never done it before and I think I would have to ask my local post office about their policy and other little questions about prices of shipping.


----------



## indjo (Jun 6, 2010)

I'm not sure because it's undesired in my country so people avoid/cull them. I've never heard stories either. But most breeders hear say that what ever line should be achieved in 3-4 generations at most.

Good luck to all of you. Hope everything works out as planned.


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

indjo said:


> I'm not sure because it's undesired in my country so people avoid/cull them. I've never heard stories either. But most breeders hear say that what ever line should be achieved in *3-4 generations at most.*
> 
> Good luck to all of you. Hope everything works out as planned.


What if there was a geno trait that you wanted to include in the fish? Have you ever tried this?


----------



## indjo (Jun 6, 2010)

What do you mean by geno trait?

dragon geno x non dragon = non dragon and worse or dragons geno that shows less dragon scales. Keep in breeding the drgn geno and you will eventually get dragons. In this case it will take more generations to achieve your goal.

The key to cross breeding is selecting the right pair which is often impossible since you can't see want genes each individual carries. Again, better judgement and instinct come into play which can only come from experience.... oh and luck. lol So it's more of a gamble if the genes don't show physically.

I got MG patterns (copper and green both with yellow fins) when I paired a platinum/white (dragon line)to a copper (also from a drgn line). That's why I say it's easier to get MG patterns through dragon breeding. I'm not sure if they were geno's - I didn't know their specific genetic background (2 different breeders). I was only told they came from dragon lines.

I hope that was what you meant.
...................

Form IMO is another story. It isn't as easy as color. You cannot get new forms just from 1 generation. It takes much more selective breeding. 

On the other hand, the crown gene/allele is carried by many lines - or is IMO (this is totally my personal opinion based on fry form I get through the years of breeding) partially dominant. You will often get fry with slightly extended rays .... or what we call the "gear effect"..... some of you call them comb tails. If I am right, getting half suns shouldn't be too much trouble. Nevertheless any kind of cross breeding means you must keep several pairs to produce the following generation. IME you cannot work with only 1 pair to each generation. So be prepared.


----------



## betta lover1507 (Aug 6, 2011)

i really don't know how i did it but, when i released the female, they started spawning in 5 or less minutes o-o


----------



## indjo (Jun 6, 2010)

Glad to hear that. Congrats......


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

Well my pair started embracing, the female released her first few eggs and ate them, dad didn't even look for them, still working on his epic nest -_- Hopefully they will figure it out better later.


----------



## betta lover1507 (Aug 6, 2011)

i know out of random :lol: and that happened a while ago


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

Well when I said geno trait, I mean like a gene that would always be present in your own line. Like for example, my friend used to breed platties or mollies and she eventually added a red male or female to get a red spot on the caudal, all of her fish had this red spot on the caudal and she could tell it was from her stock whenever they were mixed with some pet store males or females.

I hope you know what I mean.


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

GreenTea said:


> Well my pair started embracing, the female released her first few eggs and ate them, dad didn't even look for them, still working on his epic nest -_- Hopefully they will figure it out better later.


Which pair is this? I remember you saying that your one marble HMPK pair are actually very fast spawners and she bars up every time she sees the male.


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

Yeah that's a different pair. It's the first pair in this video.

The dad is picking up some eggs now and getting them in the nest but he's not super on top of it.

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/greentea191/Fishy guys gal/?action=view&current=MVI_3614.mp4


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

Ahh yes. They are truly an amazing pair. And no problems With them right? Like rips or tears.


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

Nope. A few nips in her fins and maybe a small one in his and that's all.


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

Man I need to get a nice pair that has that spawns quick like my other few pairs I did.


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

Well I was wrong about him being so gentle over night. Her anal fin is in shreds and the one side I can see at this point has a few scales missing.
I am trying a technique suggested, and am floating a second male in a cup in the tank. Seeing if he will make the main main get territorial and blow a nest. I will be removing the 2nd male in a few minutes. If this fails, and I do not see signs of any change in the breeding I will try another technique of placing a second female in the tank (in a cup) to make the first female "Jealous" see what happens.
If these fail I may consider removing them to recondition, and move on to my second prepared pair.

Now here is a question that I can't remember the answer to. Is there such a thing as the female being too small? I have two small females that are still fairly young say 4-5 months, they have had breeding bars since being next to any male, and are in fact eggy. Could a male say half again or so their size embrace them?


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

Well the male in the cup technique seems to have worked . He is focusing more on bubblenesting and less on chasing her now. Maybe just maybe this spawn will work after all. If she can start showing interest in him.


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

THEY EMBRACED!!!! I have eggs!

I had to do a surgical strike to remove my snails though, they were headed right for the spawn site @[email protected] Luckily my pair is so laid back and interested in each other that they didn't notice or care.


----------



## tpocicat (Aug 8, 2011)

Best of luck. Pics please.


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?p=996055#post996055

pictures and videos are up


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

MY SUPER RED PAIR HAVE EMBRACED!!!! It was around 7:50pm or 8pm that they started. Still going at it as I type.

I guess it was just a matter of time and patience. I usually have a lot of both, but I guess for my first spawn of getting back into the breeding has really changed after a month or so of not breeding. But what I'm most amazed at is that the female is actually helping the male this time. I usually have the female eating the eggs, but she is stuffing them in the bubble nest right along with the male. So far there are....well...a lot of eggs....let's just keep it at that for now.

The males seems to be "forcing" the female to embrace. He will go up to her and most of the time she is willing, but he just wraps himself on her and then the "click" goes. He has caught himself stuck quite a few times which is pretty funny to watch. 

@Amphibianite: I'm so happy to hear that your pair worked out finally. Well your pair was faster than mine. Today is the 5th day and I was actually thinking about taking her out and reconditioning them. I'm so glad I didn't. Well my pair spawned today and are STILL spawning now at 8:55pm eastern time. I think we may experience some fast results depending on the temperature of the water. I would be interested to compare results with you when you are able to tell gender and size, ect...they are now finished at 9:32pm sice the female retreat and was run off for a bit of time. She also stayed at the bottom

Lastly, does anyone know how to upload pictures from an iPad to photobucket maybe? If not I will directly upload them t the desktop.


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

Hurray grats on your spawn BL2033. I will happily so a comparison with you. I have my heater set for 82 degrees, but it is very cold outside the house. Snow on the ground. My room sits at approx 74 do to space heater used to heat most my tanks (works wonderfully actually)


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

Amphibianite said:


> Well I was wrong about him being so gentle over night. Her anal fin is in shreds and the one side I can see at this point has a few scales missing.
> I am trying a technique suggested, and am floating a second male in a cup in the tank. Seeing if he will make the main main get territorial and blow a nest. I will be removing the 2nd male in a few minutes. If this fails, and I do not see signs of any change in the breeding I will try another technique of placing a second female in the tank (in a cup) to make the first female "Jealous" see what happens.
> If these fail I may consider removing them to recondition, and move on to my second prepared pair.
> 
> Now here is a question that I can't remember the answer to. Is there such a thing as the female being too small? I have two small females that are still fairly young say 4-5 months, they have had breeding bars since being next to any male, and are in fact eggy. Could a male say half again or so their size embrace them?



Well to answer your question anyway, yes there is such thing as too small. You would wait until they are at least very close to an inch or a bit more in length. It is important that she can fit the male's size just a little so he won't get too frustrated and potentially kill her.


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

Amphibianite said:


> Hurray grats on your spawn BL2033. I will happily so a comparison with you. I have my heater set for 82 degrees, but it is very cold outside the house. Snow on the ground. My room sits at approx 74 do to space heater used to heat most my tanks (works wonderfully actually)


I have mine set at 82-84* depending on how cold it is in the house. We have had a really good winter this year here in NY. No snow and when there is, very thin and melts fast.

And your pair are HMPKs right?


----------



## GreenTea (Jan 31, 2011)

Success for us all


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

Yay for all of us having success.

BL2033 - thats what I thought. I was looking at my MG CT girl and realized she is still quite small. When I bought her she was less than an inch and mislabled at a veil. Petco loves to mislabel and get tiny girls in.

Yep my pair are both HMPK and I think both are dragon too.

Grats GT on spawn btw


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

Amphibianite said:


> Yay for all of us having success.
> 
> BL2033 - thats what I thought. I was looking at my MG CT girl and realized she is still quite small. When I bought her she was less than an inch and mislabled at a veil. Petco loves to mislabel and get tiny girls in.
> 
> ...


I noticed that with ct females, they tend to be small in size and have larger stomachs than the average bettas. Also i would say to feed her a bit more than usual and then transfer her to a bigger tank. She sounds like a fry if I'm not mistaken.

Also GT congrats. Did they spawn today as well?


----------



## indjo (Jun 6, 2010)

bettalover2033 said:


> Well when I said geno trait, I mean like a gene that would always be present in your own line. Like for example, my friend used to breed platties or mollies and she eventually added a red male or female to get a red spot on the caudal, all of her fish had this red spot on the caudal and she could tell it was from her stock whenever they were mixed with some pet store males or females.
> 
> I hope you know what I mean.


Fixing a certain trade mark to your line .... I don't know about this one. I have never done this. As far as I know bettas cannot pass on marks indefinitely. These markings will eventually disappear or will not show in every single individual.

Maybe it is possible when using certain traits. Such as buterfly - making butterfly with milk white markings instead of clear (this is now very rare in my country). Or Dalmation - making every individual show some dalmation spots. But dalmation cannot be used as a trade mark since the pattern is unpredictable and many have dalmation in their line. .... who knows, maybe new "trade marking" mutations will one day appear.


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

BL yeah I placed her about 3 months max, she was tiny, so is the other CT girl I got same day. So I do feed them both well, and both are in nice tanks. I will be feeding her more now.


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

Amphibianite said:


> BL yeah I placed her about 3 months max, she was tiny, so is the other CT girl I got same day. So I do feed them both well, and both are in nice tanks. I will be feeding her more now.


All I would advise is to feed well and a bigger tank environment which you said you are providing.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


----------



## Amphibianite (Aug 6, 2011)

Well all my bettas are getting a mix of frozen bloodworms, and pellets, some including the two little girls get live black worms, all are in a min of a 1 gal do to space(which is about to expand and money(atm), all get frequent water changes.


----------



## bettalover2033 (Feb 17, 2010)

I also have this happening as well.i have a gift card so I am trying to get some nice tanks for them mostly dividers since I have plenty bettas and some betta containers that you stick in the tank with little dividers that come with it. They work really good!
_Posted via Mobile Device_


----------



## Myates (Aug 2, 2011)

Glad you got a spawn 

Another trick to use in the future, cover the sides of the tank.. or use a 5+ gallon bucket with a low water level. Sometimes it's easier to get them to breed when there are no distractions outside of the tank, they focus just on each other. Also, the plastic buckets holds the warmth in much better then glass tanks.. can always transfer the fry to the tank later on, but if you are having troubles getting them to mate next time, I would cover up the sides or use a bucket. 
Some just don't like to be watched when trying to be in the mood


----------

