# My 10 gallon tank questions



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

Lol I need to stop making threads about 10 gallon tanks. So I'm making this one and whenever I have a question I'll just ask it here. Here are my Questions....


When I'm cycling my tank I'll obviously have to turn the filter on. Do I need to keep the tank a certain temp. and do I leave the lights on?
My dad will be giving me his gravel vac from when his tanks substrate was crushed coral. Since his tank was saltwater, do you think i would be okay if I just rinse the vac in water to clean it?
For people who own the marineland 10 gallon kit: Is it okay If I put a 15 watt flourescent light bulb in both circuits?
Can I use a 25 watt heater since I live in Hawaii and it doesn't get too cold?
can a penguin 100 HOB biowheel filter keep up with 5 or 6 Bettas?
Thanks!


----------



## Alex09 (Aug 9, 2010)

1. Light is not needed. Keep the temp at whatever temp your betta will be in
2. Gravel vac should be ok to use
3. Not sure
4. You may get away with it - not sure though
5. It should, BUT, you will be dividing your tank 5-6 ways? Sounds like a bit much for a 10 gallon. Keep in mind that a 10 gal is only 24 inches ling (standard size). 3-4 should be better.

EDIT: OH, I think you are talking about a _sorority_ lol. I think it will be fine. have you tried checking http://aqadvisor.com/ yet?


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

Wow my filter rate is almost 200% 0.0 I think I should be good on that... 

And yes I do mean a sorority lol. 

Another question came up in my mind:

Can I use styrofoam? The tank had styrofoam in it and one piece is like an awesome little cave... I'd obviously have to put a rock or something on it but can I use it or will it pollute the water or something? *I plan on carving it and maybe painting it with aquarium safe paint*


----------



## Sweeda88 (Dec 6, 2010)

Styrofoam is fine. Someone made a whole rock wall for their tank with it. But you need to seal it with Aquarium Sealant.


----------



## SaylorKennedy (Aug 11, 2009)

Yes you can use styrofoam in an aquarium. Lots of people make backgrounds out of the kind that you spray. I've seen some pretty cool stuff.


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

Oh I got another question! This one has to do with cycling....

So my dad knows about cycling because he has a fish tank. He asked me how I'm cycling and I said the shrimp method. Well, then he says "But how are you going to get bacteria in the tank? The shrimp provides ammonia for thr bacteria, but don't you have to introduce it?" So, is he right? When I cycle, wont the bacteria just form from the ammonia produced by the shrimp? Or do I have to somehow introduce it?


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

Here's something truly amazing that someone did.

http://www.aquariumlife.net/projects/diy-decoration/17.asp

Since I'm trying to create an amazing tank (hint: It might take awhile to set up because I want it to be perfect!) I want to do something similar. I'm low on funds though (spending it all on tank essentials) and I'm definatly not nearly artistic enough to make anything THAT good.... So how do I make some kind of great background like that simple to make? I'm going for a natural tank....

So styrofoam needs to be completely sealed in aquarium sealant to work? Ok I'll use sealant if I decide to use the awesome cave-shaped piece of styrofoam.


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

Okay.. for those who were wondering... I think this is basically my tank kit. At least, that's the exact same tank in the picture. Blah by that I mean the tanks look the exact same in the pic... there is a piece of driftwood in the same place... patch of grass in the same place... exact same fish... etc.

http://www.amazon.com/TETRA-10GALLO...6?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1293353533&sr=1-6


----------



## sayurasem (Nov 20, 2010)

baylee767 said:


> Lol I need to stop making threads about 10 gallon tanks. So I'm making this one and whenever I have a question I'll just ask it here. Here are my Questions....
> 
> 
> When I'm cycling my tank I'll obviously have to turn the filter on. Do I need to keep the tank a certain temp. and do I leave the lights on?
> ...




btw how to cycle tank????


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

sayurasem: If you need to learn how to cycle please start a thread about it. That way you're more likely to get answers.

When I cycle, will a sock be an okay object to put the shrimp in (I'm doing the shrimp method)?


----------



## JKfish (Apr 8, 2010)

Stick the shrimp in, and the bacteria will grow on it's own, though it'll take longer than if you seed the tank. You can use a sock, just make sure the sock is a regular white sock, no dyes in it.

Sayurasem, cycling in 6 steps: A. add shrimp/raw fish to a tank with a constantly running filter B. Wait/monitor water for the rise and fall of ammonia. C. Wait/monitor the rise and fall of nitrItes. D. When the tank has readings of 0 ammonia 0 nitrite and visible nitrates, do a massive water change. E. add fish F. Keep up with weekly water changes.


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

Will the tank cycle today? According to my dad I have to take the shrimps (I put 2 in) out of my tank. The ammonia needs to get between 4 and 8 ppm. Right now it's around 3. I need to cycle it really well because I'm going to be putting 5 fish in almost instantly at the same time (sorority). 

So will it get high enough in time? BTW, I put the shrimps in roughly 24 hours ago. 

And another question. It is regular for the water to turn cloudy, right?


----------



## Alex09 (Aug 9, 2010)

No the tank will not cycle in one day. You will have to keep providing an ammonia source when the shrimp get removed. Meanwhile, keep testing your water. You will know the cycle is ready once the ammonia drops to 0. It can take up to a few weeks. Please take a look at this thread: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

Well I think it depends on your method.

Mine is to:

1. put the 2 shrimps in

2. wait for ammonia to get between 4 and 8 ppm

3. remove shrimp

4. wait for nitrites ammonia to reach 0, nitrates 10-20.

Then I'm cycled.


----------



## Alex09 (Aug 9, 2010)

oh, I not sure. I did the fish in cycle... I thought you had to constantly be putting in an ammonia source? because once the bacteria no longer has anything to eat (ammonia) it starts to die. Hopefully someone more experienced will comment.


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

I think it still provides a constant source of ammonia. Because the levels will start going down, but they'll still be there the whole time. Then I'll probably add fish the next day so the bacteria doesn't get a chance to die.

Someone who's done this version of cycling before... tell me how long it takes.

Oh! The ammonia is at 4 ppm BTW.


----------



## zoragen (Sep 25, 2009)

Not an expert here by any means - but it can take take several weeks for a tank to cycle.

The bacteria do need a constant source of ammonia.

This is not something can be rushed.


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

Is there any way to reduce the amount of bubbles produced by the filter? It's a penguin biowheel 100, and it makes so many bubbles that they build up at the surface along the edges of the tank.


----------



## HarleyRigid (Dec 26, 2010)

I dont think it matters if the water goes cloudy because as soon as your bacteria is established you do a water change to get rid of all the crap. That leaves you with a fresh tank of water, a filter full of bacteria and you are ready to put your fish in and they then become the new and constant source of ammonia. From all accounts it seems that cycling can take anywhere from 4 - 8 weeks. All my information is what I have gathered from written accounts and none is from personal experience so take from it what you will. I will be beginning my first cycling tomorrow... best of luck to us all.


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

Substrate changing....

The bacteria haven't started forming yet. I might be doing a community with cories, and I'd prefer sand. Can I afford to unplug the filter for probably an hour to switch out the substrate and take out the substrate or would it mess up the cycle?


----------



## HarleyRigid (Dec 26, 2010)

I think that should be fine Baylee, I believe the filter only needs to be running so that the bacteria are introduced and can build up in there as that is where a majority will live and work. Also as a side note... when changing filter cartridges etc I have read to only change 1 type at a time. Eg. Change your noodles only, wait a few weeks then change carbon cartridge and so on. If you change all at once you devastate your bacteria colony and will basically need to cycle again. 
Baylee, you are also using the shrimp method... is your water a bit smelly? 
Other members... is it normal for the water to get a bit smelly while doing the shrimp cycle?


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

Yes it's smelly. I removed my shrimp once the ammonia got high, and until the bateria start forming I'm leaving it out Lol. This filter is a biowheel, so I only need to change cartidges. Thanks for the advice!


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

Okay I really want someone to answer these questions!

1. Sand Questions. With the sand bed... If I get 9-11 pygmy cories (Yay! They're so small you can get many!) will they shift the sand bed enough with their barbles to keep algae off (I have EXTREME lighting)? And what type of sand is heavy enough that it doesn't float around constantly and get stuck in the filter but looks really awesome? Something like this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkd12eyyo6M *Note: I ENVY this tank soooooooooo much. It's what got me into the idea of a community with cories and a white sand bed....

And this wierd brown stuff forms in my dads sand that's supposedly harmless, but it's from the tap water and annoying, it's kinda like brown algae (but it isn't). (I'm in Hawaii if that helps) If anyone knows what I'm talking about Lol how do I keep it from taking over my sand bed? And how do I clean the sand before I put it in the tank?

2. Cycling Questions. I've probably had my cycle going for a week. The ammonia is at roughly 6 PPM, but there's still no nitrites. How long does it take on average for the bacteria to start forming in a tank that's using the shrimp method and isn't being seeded? 

It's getting a bit annoying that every time I test the nitrites my dad calls out "You need to introduce the bacteria! It wont naturally form!" And then I have to tell him "Yea, it will. It just takes several weeks."

So can someone answer the questions? Particularly the sand ones...?


----------



## sayurasem (Nov 20, 2010)

for the sand... i can help you with that.
having white sand does makes your tanks soo much better... in exeption that you have fluorescent light or the 50/50 mini compact fluorescent light bulb.

-i used to use cheap incascedent light bulbs on my tank with the white sand and it looks fugly. (the light is yellow and the sand looks brown) now i use white colored light and the tank look amazing.

-too keep off algea on your sand is to put your finger at the bottom edge of your tank and digg around the perimeter of the tank. 

-btw from my experience cleaning my tank, the sand will turn *hard solid* when water are added. (the pressure of 10 gallon water compressing the sand at the bottom... that been said cories does not really help to keep off air pocket in the sand bed. (i use 10lb. of marine sand for my 10 gallon)

-what kind of sand is good??... i think any brand name marine white sand is good. (NOT live sand).

-tip for adding water is good if you have hoes/siphon to pour in the *treated* water in your tank so it does not clod the water.... or if you are using bucket to pour in the water hard like water fall... i prefer to use bowl/plate ontop your sand so it will not cloud the tank.
--- remember..... your tank will always be cloudy for every 50% or more of water changes. dont freak out... water will clear out within 3/4 hours after water change. and make sure your filter is not too strong. baffle your filter or sand particle will fly around in the tank.


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

I'm not doing a sand bed any more because I want to do a sorority again!

But seriously, can someone tell me how long it takes on average for the nitrites to start forming?


----------



## bettasforsale (Jan 3, 2011)

LOL! Good idea! I think I'll refer to this thread too for more info. Thanks everyone!


----------



## dramaqueen (Jul 7, 2008)

baylee767 said:


> I'm not doing a sand bed any more because I want to do a sorority again!
> 
> But seriously, can someone tell me how long it takes on average for the nitrites to start forming?


About 2-4 weeks from what I read.


----------



## CatherineMPLS (Oct 12, 2010)

> 1. Sand Questions. With the sand bed... If I get 9-11 pygmy cories (Yay! They're so small you can get many!) will they shift the sand bed enough with their barbles to keep algae off (I have EXTREME lighting)? And what type of sand is heavy enough that it doesn't float around constantly and get stuck in the filter but looks really awesome? Something like this...


Cories are omnivores. They need sinking carnivore pellets for food. Yes, they do eat some plant matter, but not a signicant amount. They do dig quite a bit in the sand though. There are many types of sand out there... that's a whole other topic in itself. 

I used flourite black sand in part of my 55 gallon tank and my 10 loxozonus cories have no problems digging around  It looks AMAZING but you have to RINSE IT VERY WELL before use! And no, it didn't turn hard with the pressure of the water....

TO RINSE:
Put the sand in a bucket (about 1/3 full). Fill the rest with water. Swish it around, pour out the cloudy water. REPEAT until the water is crystal clear when swishing the sand around 





> 2. Cycling Questions. I've probably had my cycle going for a week. The ammonia is at roughly 6 PPM, but there's still no nitrites. How long does it take on average for the bacteria to start forming in a tank that's using the shrimp method and isn't being seeded?
> 
> It's getting a bit annoying that every time I test the nitrites my dad calls out "You need to introduce the bacteria! It wont naturally form!" And then I have to tell him "Yea, it will. It just takes several weeks."


IT WILL NATURALLY COME!!! AND IT CAN TAKE SEVERAL WEEKS :-D

There are 2 different bacteria colonies involved in the nitrogen cycle. These bacteria -- along with MANY others -- are present in the air and will naturally come into your tank to feed on what they want > ammonia and nitrite. 

Some stores sell "bottled bacteria" but this stuff is SOOO hit and miss. Maybe this is what your dad is referring to? I personally would NOT recommend it to anyone.


So...The first bacteria (_Nitrosomonas)_ converts ammonia to nitrite and is reddish in color. I would recommend cranking the heat above 80'F... maybe even 84'F as the bacteria multiply faster at higher temps. Also, the bacteria don't need light, but they DO need dissolved oxygen and lots of it. You could lower the water level in the tank so the filter creates more surface agitation -- and if you have one, crank the air pump/stone to high and move it near your filter's intake.

The second bacteria (_Nitrobacter)_ will start to form once there is sufficient nitrite to feed on and convert it to nitrate -- and is brownish in color. Same applies to this bacteria for temp and O2.

Each of these bacteria take nearly 20 hours to double their population, so as far as bacteria go... they are VERY SLOW GROWERS. They also prefer a pH above 7.5 and will not grow well (if at all) with a pH below 6.5


Hang in there... if you feed them (ammonia)... they will come!


----------



## CatherineMPLS (Oct 12, 2010)

Oh, and not that I probably need to tell you this  but, drop the temp back down before adding any fish 

GOOD LUCK!


----------



## vaygirl (Sep 10, 2009)

That brown stuff your Dad had in his tank is probably diatoms. They happen in new tanks, when you have excessive nitrate, when your light needs to be replaced and sometimes they are caused by something in your tap water (phosphates I think). In my case, I must have phosphates because I have diatoms constantly. To remedy this, I have pond snails in all my tanks. They eat diatoms. But anyway, in the beginning of a tank, it's a normal thing.


----------



## baylee767 (Nov 5, 2010)

OK so my dad is really pressing a community. I'm thinking maybe, but I want lots of fish! I might do this...

1 male Betta
3 guppies
3 albino cories
5 neon tetra

With the new Betta I'm getting. Then I'm 126% stocked. Yes, it is a bit over stocked.

BUT. If I have lots of live plants (already ordered them!)

3 tropica swords

2 bunches of anarchis

2 bunches of foxtail "green" (With the bunches the plants will grow a bunch because I'll be cutting the stems in half nd replanting new bunches all the time)

It might lighten the load a little. Can I make it by with once weekly 50% water changes in this type of tank? Or would it have to be twice weekly? 

I know most people reccomend understocking, but this would be such a cool tank...


----------



## Kiku (Dec 31, 2010)

I have a question too, I tried posting a thread a while back but no one answered. I was unable to find any raw shrimp (which was crazy, I live near a coast and went to three stores! but oh well...) so I put in a pre-cooked shrimp. Will it still work? I put in a couple pieces of betta pellets for good measure *lol*


----------



## JKfish (Apr 8, 2010)

Yes, that'd work kiku


----------

