# Betta died... What I do wrong



## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

I got my fish tank and betta on New Years eve and setup the tank when I got home that night. since I wasn't going to be home with the betta I decided not to put him in until tomorrow when I got back from my grandparents house. So I got home and floated his cup for 30 mins which was 15 mins longer than they told me I needed to. After the 30 mins was up I took the lid off of the cup and let him swim out and I then dumped the rest of the water from his cup into the tank after he swam out. I loved watching him swim around and he was always swimming around except into his pirate ship I bought him. He always ate his food which was 3 pellets in the morning before school and 3 pellets around 6 which he always ate. 

About a week and a half ago I was with my grandparents and went into a pet store with them and came out with a ghost shrimp and a octious catfish or something like that we just called it an octopus catfish. When I got home which was about 2 hrs later since I live a good distance away from them I floated there bag in the water for 30 mins and then dumped ALL the water from the bag into the tank. The betta never really seemed to mind them he normally left them alone but would occansionaly chase off the catfish. When I was at the pet store I bought some algae wafers made by HIKARI a Japanese company ( which was probably a mistake but I bought the smallest pact.) They told me to drop a part of the pellet into the tank every couple of days and after I had them for 3-4 days I dropped about 1/3 of the pellet into the tank. The catfish never ate it but the shrimp and betta did. I wasn't to worried about the betta eating it since they told me it was fine if he ate his food and vise versa. But the next day or two forget which I took a plastic spoon and pulled out the pwafer cause I was worried bout the betta. And I think I was right to because after he ate the wafer he went into his pirate ship which he neve did and he would go back into the dark corner and stay. The only way he would come out for me was if he wanted to or if I tapped the lid of the tank. But sometimes he would come out at night or if I turned off the light. he got worse everyday he started losing color and he would swim into the point of the pirate ship and almost anything that was kinda rough kinda like he wanted to hurt him self. So he kept losing more and more color and yesterday before I left to go watch the Jr high basketball game I knew he wouldn't make it through the night. his fins started to almost dry up so bad he could hardly swim to get air. They kinda looked wilted almost and lifeless. And sure enough I was right when I came home he was dead. Inside his pirate ship. And I am not sure what caused his death. Also before he ate the wafer he would spread his fins all the time after he ate the wafer he never did again.

I only did one water change In the month I had him it was a 100% water change about 5 days ago.

I never vaccumed the gravel.

I feed him only pellets 6 total a day sometimes 7 as a reward. Since I never feed him anything else.

He had a heater and filter in the aquarium the whole time.

Does any of you guys no what may of happened and what I can do to prevent it in the future. also was it just the fish or was there things I could of done to save him when he was sick?

Thanks for reading this long story explaining what happened.


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## isntanything (Dec 9, 2013)

I can't tell you exactly what happened to your betta. You obviously cared about him and did your best, but there are one or two things you can learn from this experience.

As a general rule, it is not a good idea to tip the water fish come in into the tank. You never know what's in it.

When introducing new fish to a tank, it's best to put them in quarantine first, just to make sure they do not have any diseases which they can pass on.

You don't say how big your tank is. If it's under 10g, I wouldn't advise putting any other fish in there with a betta. Snails and shrimp only. This may have caused your betta some stress.

No matter what the size was, you needed to do more than one water change every month. How often you should do it depends on the size of the tank, but I would suggest that 50% twice a week is a minimum. What most likely happened is that the water quality declined fast in that month, especially when you added the catfish. Even if it looked clean, there would be a lot of ammonia building up and that is very bad for a fish.

Try not to feel too bad about what happened. Everyone makes mistakes when they start out.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

The tank he was kept in was a 5 gal tank. 

How do I put him into the aquarium without putting the water he came in also?
I am planning on moving the catfish and shrimp to a different tank before I get another betta which will be a challenge since I am 13 and don't have a job to earn money to get a different tank for the shrimp and catfish. If I do that would a 25% change every week or a 50 % water change every other week be good if he was by himself in a 5 gal tank?

I didn't think the new tankmates were bothering him since he stayed away from them and didn't normally bother them.


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## isntanything (Dec 9, 2013)

You can't always tell if tank mates are bothering a betta. They can still be stressed by having their territory invaded, even if they aren't attacking. The shrimp is fine in the tank and to be honest you might as well keep the catfish in there too rather than buy another tank. Just don't replace him when he dies.

In a 5g you need to do two 50% water changes per week until the tank cycles (around 6-8 weeks, normally). Then you can cut back to one 50% per week.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

I have had the tank for a month exactly today.

do you think the Japanese made algae wafer had something to do with him dying cause that is when he started acting bad? I normally try to buy stuff made in America when I can find it but I had spent a lot of money on the tank and went with the cheapest.


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## isntanything (Dec 9, 2013)

Why would a Japanese algae wafer be worse than an American one? I don't understand that. The Hikari wafers are fine.

The thing that made your fish ill was poor water quality. This would have got worse when you introduced the catfish. That's why it seems to have happened at the same time as the wafer.


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## Vergil (Nov 10, 2013)

Hikari is generally a safe/trusted brand. Doubt it will poison your betta but your betta is a carnivorous fish. Although he may eat the wafers, I doubt he can digest them...


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## isntanything (Dec 9, 2013)

Another question: did you use water conditioner when you made the 100% change?


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## sainthogan (Sep 27, 2012)

For a 5 gallon tank, especially with more than one fish, you should be doing at least 1 water change a week. My guess is that the toxins built up in the tank so much that he couldn't handle it anymore since you only did 1 water change that whole month. Fish naturally produce ammonia in their waste and ammonia is toxic to fish. Catfish have a very large bioload (waste) and I would recommend 2 water changes a week with a catfish in a 5 gallon tank. It wouldn't need to be a 100% water change each time, in fact it's usually not a good idea to do a 100% change ever unless you have something a lot smaller and no filter. Sometimes a 100% change can actually do more harm than good because you destroy all the beneficial bacteria growing in the tank that helps keep the ammonia and other harmful waste products to a minimum. One 25% and 1 50% would be perfect for a tank that size and two fish.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

The reason I thought the American made wafers may be better is things built here in America seem to be made of better quality than from overseas in my opinion. When I made the water change I made sure to use conditioner according to the package. 

I also have 1 live plant in the tank a banana plant and one fake plant along with the pirate ship. Does the poor water quality have anything to do with my plant starting to turn brown? and why is there still new leafs growing if it is turning brown?


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

I forgot to ask is there anything else that I should have done besides not dump the water in with the fish and do more water changes?


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## dramaqueen (Jul 7, 2008)

I don't really know what could have caused the death of your fish but I'm going to find someone who can answer your questions.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

Thanks for taking time to help me. I just want to figure out what all I did wrong so I don't make this mistake again. 

I am hoping it has nothing to do with the tankmates because I never had to have them and I am not a huge fan of the catfish I wish I would have bought a cory catfish instead since they swim around more.


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## cowgirlsue1 (Nov 22, 2013)

Okay...you've a rough go of it. Just think about the water in the tank. It would be like you being in a smoke filled room. Eventually you would get sick and your lungs could no longer get oxygen to your body; thus, the water changes are necessary to take out the ammonia build up from the waste. The filter will not help. A couple of plants will; also Seachem Prime conditioner added after water change. Some plants like your banana don't get planted in dirt; same with Anubias. Floaters like duckweed and frogbit filter the water. Anything you can do to make the tank as natural as possible will cut down your total maintenance. You'll need Water testers for ammonia and nitrates; Ph, too. Read the threads on natural planted tanks. It will be so rewarding. Try cycling the tank before getting another betta. Then, onward to success. When I got my first tank, I never understood exactly what to do and eventually, disaster. It was a miracle that I kept fish alive as long as I did. It's all chemistry and balance. You can do it.


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## logisticsguy (Sep 7, 2012)

A couple things. I agree with the need to do more water changes. In a 5g I like to do at least 2x per week 50-70% since your tank isn't cycled. Which water conditioner did you add to the tap water and how much? When getting fish from the pet store (or anywhere) QT period of 2-3 weeks is needed so diseases don't spread. Even then I like to give a new fish a couple of dips in Paraguard or Methane Blue before they get to join the fish party. The Hikari wafer would most certainly be safe but if left uneaten it could cause an ammonia spike. I try to stay away from 100% wc myself for the reasons sainthogan outlined above. Corycats, especially the small ones like panda and pygmy make good tank mates but you need 4+ and a 5g is too small for that. Your bioload was high for a 5g uncycled tank with your water change schedule. Don't worry about it much we have all made mistakes learning the betta craft and even the best keepers lose fish sometimes. What your doing by asking for help shows the willingness to learn more. The plant kept growing new leaves because it had food in the high ammonia from the fish and the brown was diatoms produced from your tank processing to to cycle.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

So I just read this website







and am still very confused on how to cycle the tank. I don't understand what to do on the water changes or what plants I can buy to help it cycle itself.

When I did the water change I used tetra aqua Safe it says to add a teaspoon for every 10 gals so after I put the water in the tank I put in half a teaspoon of the water conditioner.

How do I quarantine the fish before putting it in the tank by it's self since I only have one tank and can't really afford to get a second one since I am 13 and don't have a job and unless I can find a actual job this summer like I want I don't think I will be able to. I already have put $90 into the tank and don't mind buying what I need for the betta if I can afford it and if I can't I will get it when I can.


If I just have 1 betta in the tank next time does he need to be quarantined? And can any one give me advice on how to cycle a tank and then how to get it to cycle it's self? also what kinds of plants are good to help it start to cycle it's self?


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## isntanything (Dec 9, 2013)

If you just have one fish on his own, you don't need to quarantine him.

If you can't quarantine at the moment, then it's safer not to add any more fish until you have the equipment to do it. It's your choice, but that is the only sure way to avoid spreading diseases.

You don't really have to do anything to cycle a tank. If you have a filter and a fish in there, it will cycle eventually on its own in around 6-8 weeks. All you need to do is keep up with the water changes. If you have a test kit, then you do a 50% change whenever the ammonia level goes above 0.25 ppm. If you don't have a kit, then do 50% changes twice a week for the first 6-8 weeks.


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## kittenfish (Dec 1, 2013)

You asked about plants - are you referring to the silent cycle? What that means is that plants take in ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, so with enough fast-growing plants (and sufficient lighting, nutrients, etc.), you won't see spikes in any of these parameters. You will also be okay with less frequent water changes - in my planted tank I hardly ever see nitrates and have had to add them in myself. So if you are interested in a planted tank, it's a great way to keep water quality up, but does require learning about plant care.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

So before I get my next betta I want my tank completely empty of other fish. so he will be by his self for 100% of his life. I want to make sure I understand exactly what to do.

If I don't have a test kit do two 50% water changes a week for 6-8 weeks. If I do get a test kit I only do a 50% water change when the ammonia goes above 0.25ppm for the whole time I have the tank from day one to however long I have it.

Now I don't have a gravel vaccum how often is that needed to be used?
I also haven't replaced the filter cartlidge yet in a month. Do I just take it out and pour tab water over it or do I use a rag that hasn't been exposed to chemicals or do I throw it away and after how long is it a good idea to change cartledges? 

and should I get more live plants?


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## cowgirlsue1 (Nov 22, 2013)

The filter should be washed off in the water that you took out of the tank so you don't remove the helpful bacteria that is growing on it. As for plants, Oldfishlady recommends some fast growers in her sticky under natural planted tanks. I have followed her advice and have had sucess. And remember, bettas are a solitary fish, so you don't have to worry about company. Just a nerite snail and maybe dwarf cory for janitorial duties. For vacuuming, just a small plastic hose because in a small tank, there's not much room to manuever. I planted mine and tried a regular siphon and stirred up the whole darn thing. Now I'm using a really small siphon and being really careful. I have soil substrate with sand on top and gravel on that. Sometimes it's trial and error. Try the sticky: Step by step nitrogen cycle guide, that shows you how to cycle the fishless way if you want to be sure. . There's so much info on this site, you can't go wrong.


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## Vergil (Nov 10, 2013)

Whether you want to get plants for your tank is more of a preference really but do look into plants that thrive in similar lighting conditions/pH/temp/etc.

They do improve your water quality besides making it prettier.

If you have plants they also use up the ammonia so for my part when I started out, I had some beginner plants (amazon swords, water wisteria, vallisneria).


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

So do I rinse the cartiledge out over the tank so the bacteria falls into the water or should I do it over the sink or tub where the water can drain and just replace the tank water?

As for vaccuming how often is it good to do and is it best to remove the fish from the tank when doing this? Any recommendations for gravel vac/ siphon would help as I don't know what would be best for a 5 gal.

Sorry about all the questions I just want to make sure I know what I am doing this time so I can't make the same mistakes I did last time that sent Reggie to that big Fish Bowl in the sky.


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## cowgirlsue1 (Nov 22, 2013)

Just swish the filter in the bucket to get the detrious off that clings to the filter. That keeps the good bacteria there on the pad. I use the Aqueon Mini siphon from Petco 7.99 or just by plastic tubing there by the foot. NOthing fancy. You should not have to remove the fish. It's so stressful for them if you have to chase them, especially around deco and plants. And when you get a fish, add water to the bag for floating but under no circumstances do you add the bag water to your tank. Dump the water and fish into a net and then put the fish into the tank. Oh, and did I mention that I also lost 2 ghost shrimp in a week for no apparent reason. Just found their little bodies at the bottom. Stuff happens that you just can't control. Especially since all water parameters were excellent.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

I will try to get the siphon from petco when I am in town next time. Is it pretty easy to learn to use with the instructions?

Also the filter how often do you guys replace filter cartledges?

and I noticed that some water evaporates is there anything to do for it or does the evaporating water even matter?


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## cowgirlsue1 (Nov 22, 2013)

There are a few youtube vids on using the siphon, but basically, I just fill the hose at the sink, put end in tank and drop other end in bucket BELOW. If you're doing a NPT, just replace when it gets really dirty. Remember, all that beneficial bacteria lives on the filter, so try rinsing together for transfer. Water evaporation is normal. Since I'm still doing 20% changes 1/week, it gets added back.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

One thing I read on another page was when I do the two water changes the first one I just change 50% of the water the first time that week and the second time that week to vaccum the gavel is it necessary to vaccum that often and that is just for the first 6-8 weeks right?

And would doing the changes on Friday and Tuesday work?


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## Betta Nut (Dec 3, 2013)

That schedule is fine. Filter cartridges only should be replaced if they are actually disintegrating. They just need to be swished/jiggled/squeezed to get gunk off, only in a bucket or bowl with tank water in it, never the sink, because straight tap water kills bacteria. Most people get 6 months to a year or more use out of their filters!
Evaporating water isn't a concern, just top off with conditioned water as needed.
Gravel cleaning, you can go the syphon route, or go the cheap way and get a turkey baster from the dollar store, lol. Works like a charm. I'd at least do a little bit of gravel syphon every week til it's cycled, and then as you deem necessary after that. It might be cycled, but gunk/poo/mystery goop isn't pretty to look at  
All my tanks are planted, so I don't clean out the gravel (and only on the surface/visible areas) but maybe every 4 weeks or so, so I'm not sure how the buildup is in a non planted tank, and what reccomendations are.


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## cowgirlsue1 (Nov 22, 2013)

Sounds right. I always test the water to make sure nothing has gone awry. So much of this is about checking the chemistry values. I have water sprite, wisteria, bolbitis, and java plant plus duckweed (which of course came in on floaters. Just keep removing some every so often). I recommend a website that gives lots of info on plants, fish, invertebrates with a little humor. http://aqualandpetsplus.com/index.htm
I refer there for quick study of plants and stuff.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

I don't really have more money to buy a test kit right now but I think one of the pet stores in town checks the water for you for free so I will take it in there till I get a test kit.

But with the filter how do I keep the bacteria that is good in the tank if I do it over a bucket do I dump that water in the bucket or do I pour it back into the tank? I would think dump the water I used to rinse it off with down the drain or outside but I really don't know.

Sorry it is taking me so long to understand this but my pet store never told me any of this.


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## isntanything (Dec 9, 2013)

The good bacteria sticks to the surfaces in the filter cartridge. There is very little in the actual tank water. The reason you don't rinse it under the tap is that the chlorine in tap water kills bacteria. So you just drain the water you are changing into a bucket, swish the filter cartridge around a bit, and put the cartridge back. Then you can get rid of the old water.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

Ok thanks I finally understand how to take care of the filter and a new betta now it just sucks that one had to die for me to understand what I was doing wrong.

Does anybody have a type of plant that helps with ammonia that they like to use?


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## cowgirlsue1 (Nov 22, 2013)

These are recommended by oldfishlady as they grow quickly and use up a lot of ammonia and waste products. 
Najas indica (naja grass)
Cabomba caroliniana(green)
C. piauhyensis (red)
Hygrophila dfformis (westeria)
H. corymbosa (giant hygro)
H, siamensis (thin leaf)
Ludwigia natans
Rotala indica

Rosette plants:
Vallisneria americana-var Biwanesis
V. spiralis
Sagittaria subulata - dwarf grass
S. platyphylla
Cryptocryne walkeri
Crypt-bronze
C. wendtii
Echinodorus bleheri (amazon sword)
E. ozelot
E. tenellus (chain sword)

Other:
Nymphaes stellata (red lily)
Aponogeton ulvaceus
Microsorium pteropus (java fern)
Vesicularia dubyana (java moss)
Floating plants:
Pistia stratiotes (water lettuce)
Limnobium laevigatum (frogbit)
Lemna minor (duckweed)


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

ok thanks. And just wanting to clarify.

for 6-8 weeks do 2 50% water changes per week. 1 just water one water and vaccum.
Filter cartridge rinse off with old tank water when I do a water change. Replace it after a few months.

When adding a new betta slowly add tank water to his cup and then dump his cup water and him into the net over a bucket or something so the cup water doesn't get into the tank incase of disease. 

Last question I think.
is it ok to use my hand or a rag that has never been exposed to chemicals to scrub the filter cartridge to help get off some of the stuff or gunk on it?

Thanks for all your help


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## cowgirlsue1 (Nov 22, 2013)

ya know...I think that a good swish will do the trick just to get the big stuff off. And I'm down to 20% @ 1 time a week but then I can do water tests, so 50% is okay. There's like 200 tests in each one of those kits. But, cost is always on my mind too. My $25 tank turned into about $100 or more. (I ordered some morimo balls from the UK with some moss). :J


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## isntanything (Dec 9, 2013)

panthers24 said:


> ok thanks. And just wanting to clarify.
> 
> for 6-8 weeks do 2 50% water changes per week. 1 just water one water and vaccum.
> Filter cartridge rinse off with old tank water when I do a water change. Replace it after a few months.
> ...


You should only need to rinse off the cartridge once or twice a month.

No need to use anything to 'scrub', the cartridge - you will be scrubbing off bacteria. Just a quick swish to get the worst of the gunk off is all you need. Filters are actually supposed to be a bit dirty - that's food for the bacteria.

Don't replace the cartridge unless it's falling apart. A new cartridge means starting the cycling process all over again.


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## cowgirlsue1 (Nov 22, 2013)

Let us know how you're doing.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

I will it has been a week since I cleaned it and if I don't have school today I will try to do a 50% water change if not will do it Tuesday.

Once I do the 50% water change will I be ready to add a new betta to the tank or should I wait till the catfish and shrimp are gone?

Also did I have seen bettas a lot cheaper than this but I paid $13 for my betta and I am not sure what kind he was even all the cup said was fancy betta. So was $13 a rip-off?


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## cowgirlsue1 (Nov 22, 2013)

I bought my Betta at Petco. He's a doubletail and was only about $4. There were more expensive ones there depending on breeding I suppose. I had seen them at the LPS for $10 and up. When I purchased Kwei-Li, he was the color that I wanted, the healthiest looking, and responded when I picked up the cup. Just like everything in life, cost is not everything.

Question: What do you mean when the catfish and shrimp are gone??


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

When I can figure out something to put them in. I don't really have the money to buy another tank. Would they be fine in a bowl or do they have to have a tank with a filter and heater? I could probably buy them those if they could live in a bowl I could get a heater and filter probably.

I just remembered someone in my family said they might have a tank but it is at least 20 years old and has been kept outside would a tank like this be ok to use because if so he said he would give it to me and if it will work? I am not sure if soap or anything has been used on it if so is it ok to use and how do I clean it?


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

Forgot to include.

Is it alright to use a cup or something that has been washed my hand with soap and water and in the dishwasher when cleaning the tank? or do I need to get a cup that has never been used on anything?


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## cowgirlsue1 (Nov 22, 2013)

USE NO SOAP EVER. Too many chemicals. DW wash should be okay since it goes thru many rinses. Salt scrub on the tank would be good; hot water rinse to get all that out. The shrimp are really sensitive to changes so don't be surprized if they don't make it. I cycled my tank with the betta, oto and nerite snail and everybody is doing great. Shrimp didn't! :<


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

what do you mean salt scrub? 

I just remembered that we have plastic cups from a birthday party will they work for taking out the tank water? The thing I pour the water conditioner in has been washed by hand and dishwasher not sure which one last does it need replaced then?

And finally the bucket we pour the water in has been washed I think it was normally outside so it may of had soap in it from washing stuff if it has will it still be ok to use?


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

Before I use the tank if he still has it I will make sure to ask if soap was ever used on it.


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## cowgirlsue1 (Nov 22, 2013)

Sorry so confusing. Coarse salt can be used as a scrub to remove the dirt from tank. Can use ammonia to clean glass as long as it's not the sudsy kind. Rinse everything thoroughly. Don't stick your head into tank. Usually if tihngs are rinsed well, you'll be okay. The dishwasher goes thru a couple of rinse cycles to remove residue so probably okay. Plastic cups okay. I degas (let it sit out from packaging) and rinse everything I put in tank. Don't overthink. Even if tank was washed with soap before, you can do the above to restore. Let everythng dry out; then use.


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## Tamerind (Sep 19, 2013)

I would probably say that the wafer caused bloat. This is happening to my Betta right now.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

Has anybody here ever used API stress Zyme+ before because I am confused on if it helps the ammonia or stress?

I thought they told me it helps with ammonia they told me to put it in with my water change


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

cowgirlsue1 said:


> Sorry so confusing. Coarse salt can be used as a scrub to remove the dirt from tank. Can use ammonia to clean glass as long as it's not the sudsy kind. Rinse everything thoroughly. Don't stick your head into tank. Usually if tihngs are rinsed well, you'll be okay. The dishwasher goes thru a couple of rinse cycles to remove residue so probably okay. Plastic cups okay. I degas (let it sit out from packaging) and rinse everything I put in tank. Don't overthink. Even if tank was washed with soap before, you can do the above to restore. Let everythng dry out; then use.


Thanks I will have to ask him about it in the next few days to see what size it is because if it isn't a 10 gal it will not work because I can't afford to run two separate tanks which is why I want to get a 10 gal and transfer my stuff over to it. I will put a divider halfway between it and have a betta on one side and maybe 6-7 tiger barbs on the other side if it will work.

Does anybody have experience with Tiger barbs I wouldn't mind putting them in a divided tank?


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## isntanything (Dec 9, 2013)

Stress Zyme is basically bacteria in a bottle.

It's not going to hurt to use it, but whether it does any good is up for debate. The bottle has to be fresh and stored correctly (including during transport and at the store), or the bacteria won't work. It can do a job in kick starting a cycle, but once the cycle is established, there is no need for it.

Unlike Prime or Ammo Lock, it doesn't directly solve ammonia problems.

Tiger Barbs are fairly aggressive, nippy fish. They need a large-ish tank (like at least 20g, preferably 30g) and need to be kept in groups.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

Do you know of any fish that could be in 5-6 gallons of water and have 5-6 of them? Besides guppies

if I can get the tank I want I will divide it for my betta and get other fish


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## isntanything (Dec 9, 2013)

The problem is that they are not going to have much horizontal swimming room in half of a divided 10g. Even nano fish like neons and chili rasboras prefer a bit more space to swim in.

I honestly don't feel I could recommend anything other than another betta.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

In 7 gals would that be better? I wouldn't want to go any smaller than that because I don't feel it will be right to the betta after being in a 5 gal for so long to move him into anything smaller than 3 gals.

How big of a tank would you recommend for neon tetras


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## isntanything (Dec 9, 2013)

I wouldn't put them in anything less than 10g. They like room to school and swim.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

What about African chiliads could I get 3-4 of them in 5-6 gallons? 

Sorry bout he spelling I am sure it is wrong
African chicilads not sure how to spell it


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## isntanything (Dec 9, 2013)

Cichlids? Oh heck no.

They need much bigger tanks.


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## panthers24 (Dec 31, 2013)

So preety much all that can go in there is a betta?


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