# When should I do my first water change?



## pen (Jul 13, 2020)

Hello!

I am a new betta owner, and am stuck on when to do my first partial water change. 
I set up my tank around 8 days ago (June 5th) and added my fish 5 days ago (June 8th). I remember reading that you should wait to complete your first water change until your cycle is complete. Is this correction information? If so, how can I tell if the cycle is complete? 
Also, my tank currently has this weird “film“ covering the surface of the water, and there are bubbles on the surface. This is making me think that it needs to be cleaned, and I don’t know if this is harmful to my betta or not. Should this be a concern?

Thank you so much in advance! )))
———————————
These are my results from testing the water:
pH = 8ish
Ammonia = somewhere between 0-0.25 ppm
Nitrite = 0 ppm
Nitrate = 0 ppm (maybe ever so slightly higher)

Other info: 
• Using the five gallon fluval spec v tank
• Using the API freshwater master test kit + API 5 in 1 test strips
• I previously added pH down to my tank but it hasn’t seemed to do anything 
• I added tetra SafeStart to my tank on June 7th
• My water got cloudy after adding the tetra SafeStart and after 4 days it went away 
• A paper towel feel into my tank for a couple seconds a couple days ago 😳


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## luffypets (Aug 26, 2019)

I personally recommend using SunGrow Aquarium Vacuum Gravel & Sand Cleaner Pump Kit - Chewy.com for changing water. Fast, easy to use and very effective...


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## fishowner550 (Mar 26, 2020)

*Change half the water when either ammonia or nitrite approach 0.50ppm (alternately, 25% at 0.25ppm), or weekly, whichever comes first. Add Seachem Prime at 2-drops per gallon of tank size every day until cycled.*

That’s all you have to do. You can stop reading now. But there’s a lot of information packed into that sentence. So let’s go over it again – slowly.

*Change half the water...*

Removing water is most easily done with a siphon; also known as a gravel vacuum. Although a _clean_, new turkey baster will also work. Suck up as much old food, plant debris and feces as you can conveniently. Replace with water of the same temperature (within a few degrees either way). Add the Prime to the tank just before refilling. You don’t have to “age” the water except in special conditions. See _pH matching_ – below.

*when either ammonia or nitrite approach 0.25-0.50ppm...*

You need a water test kit to get these readings. Liquid tests are considered more consistently accurate than test strips, and they are cheaper per test. Most fish-keepers use the API master test kit (http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater...API+freshwater) which contains the tests you need. Test every day until you learn how fast ammonia builds up in your tank. (*ppm* is parts per million.)

You also need a filter to cycle a tank. Cycling bacteria need oxygen and water flow. A filter is the best and easiest way to provide both. Do not rinse or replace the filter during the cycle.

*or weekly, whichever comes first...*

A weekly 25%-50% water change with vacuuming is part of recommended tank maintenance. If ammonia and nitrite stay below 0.25-0.50ppm the tank goes onto the weekly water-change schedule.

*add Seachem Prime at 2-drops per gallon of tank size every day...*

This is IMPORTANT: Prime water conditioner (by Seachem) allows you to have a little ammonia or nitrite in the tank without endangering your fish. This protection goes away within 48 hours so it’s necessary to add more Prime. Seachem recommends 2 drop/gal of tank size with water changes. A further dose of 2-drops/gal every day keeps the protection fresh.

Other water conditioners that detoxify ammonia include API AmmoLock and Kordon Amquel+. Water conditioners must clearly state they handle or deal with ammonia. Check with us before you buy.

*until cycled.*

The tank is cycled when ammonia reads 0.0ppm, nitrite reads 0.0ppm and nitrate increases slightly between water changes. Afterwards, you only have to add Prime during weekly water changes.

*Maintenance*

A weekly 25%-50% water change is a good habit to get into. While you’re at it, vacuum the substrate to remove solid waste, rotting food, etc. A weekly partial water change also dilutes nitrate, removes dissolved waste and replaces minerals used up by your fish and plants. Every few weeks, rinse the filter media in the water removed from the tank during the water change -- not in untreated tapwater.

*Why cycle?*

Fish and other aquatic animals produce ammonia as a by-product of living. Rotting food, plant debris, feces and other organics also produce ammonia. Ammonia is harmful or deadly if allowed to build-up in the tank. Cycling bacteria remove ammonia, providing the healthiest, safest water conditions for your fish. Creating a “nitrogen cycle” in the tank is how you build bacteria colonies big enough to “eat” all the ammonia.

The nitrogen cycle can take anywhere from two weeks to two months to complete.

*Fish-in? Fishless?*

The above instructions are for a “fish-in” cycle which uses the ammonia produced by your fish to feed the cycling bacteria and grow the bacteria colonies. Since Betta produce so little ammonia (low-bioload) smaller colonies are enough. You need just enough bacteria to eat all the ammonia. In fact, that’s what get with fish-in cycling – just the right amount of bacteria.

“Fishless” cycling means that _you_ provide the ammonia to feed the growing colonies. You can raise very large bacteria colonies using this method. If you’re planning to stock large fish or many fish at once this may be the way to go.

*Tank size*

Any size tank from 2-gallons on up can be cycled using this method. The smaller 2- and 3- gallon tanks do require extra care and close monitoring; ammonia can build up pretty fast sometimes. Test daily and always be ready to do a 25%-50% water change with Prime if ammonia rises above 0.25-0.50ppm.

*Bacteria*

Two types of bacteria are involved in the “nitrogen cycle.” One kind (Nitrosomonas) oxidizes harmful ammonia and turns it into nitrite. The other (Nitrospira) oxidizes less-harmful nitrite and turns it into nitrate. After a tank is cycled the weekly water change removes nitrate.

Filter media (sponges, cartridges, pads) and substrate that contain live cycling bacteria can also be used to “seed” the cycle and make it faster. Placed in the filter or in the filter flow, these bacteria quickly grow throughout the tank. Bacteria stick to surfaces; not much lives in the water. Be careful to use only seeded media from a clean, healthy tank. Getting seeded media from a pet store can be risky.

Cycling bacteria is available in bottles from your local pet store. Tetra SafeStart is often used, although there are a few other products containing the bacteria listed above.

*pH matching*

Betta can tolerate a wide range of pH – from below 7.0 pH to above 8.0 pH – as long as it does not change quickly. If your tapwater pH matches your tank pH within + 0.3 points a 50% water change is no problem. If the pH difference is outside of that range, letting the refill water sit and "age" for 24-hours should bring it into range. Or you can do smaller water changes more often

*This tutorial was written by Betta Fish member Hallyx.*


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## fishowner550 (Mar 26, 2020)

Oldfishlady water change recommendations


If I get tap water to a big 5 gallon plastic bucket and leave it for 48 hours, do I still have to add liquid to remove chlorine. Do you know whether your water has chlorine, chloramine or both? While chlorine evaporate easily from water, Chloramine evaporates at an insanely slow rate. It's...




www.bettafish.com


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## RussellTheShihTzu (Mar 19, 2013)

The above linked sticky is a comprehensive one but a few suggestions have been altered.

A good general rule is a water change if _either_ Nitrite or Ammonia reach .25 ppm.

For stable, cycled tanks, 1-2 25%-50% per week. Always vacuum.

For small, unfiltered tanks/bowls, two 50% and vacuum per week. It is no longer widely recommended to do 100% water changes as they can stress fish. The exceptions would be to rid a tank of meds or when instructed by a manufacturer when using an additive.

As the linked article notes: Parameters are not the sole reason for water changes. They are also to replenish the essential minerals that fish need to retain optimal health.


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