# Betta Fish Medications



## DarkMoon17

Though it is always better to use conservative methods like Aquarium Salt, Epsom Salt and water changes when treating fish illnesses, it is important to feel comfortable with medicines should you have to use them. When I treat an illness, I usually combine appropriate medications to treat the symptoms of illness so that the fish is strong enough to fight off the infection. The medications you use depends on your specific circumstances. For instance, though Aquarium Salt is the normal treatment for Popeye, if the eye is too swollen, treating with Aquarium Salt could only make things worse. It is important to realize this and alter your treatment plan. In this case, Epsom Salt should be used to reduce swelling and a medicine should be used in place of Aquarium Salt to fight the infection.

Here is a list of medications available at Petsmart. Petco no longer carries fish medication. Do not randomly mix medications. Do your research. Do not mix Ick medications with any other treatment including Salt (they often include salt). Get in the habit of looking at the active ingredients. Be suspicious of any medicine that either does not list the active ingredients or does not tell you how much of the active ingredient is actually in the medication. 

Things I have on hand at all times
Things I would use again and what I used it for
Things I would NEVER spend money on, or used without success

*Mardel*
Maracyn

Treats: Columnaris, Fin Rot, Popeye, Dropsy
Active Ingredients: 200mg Erythromyacin
Maracyn II

Treats: Septicemia, Fin Rot, Cotton Wool Disease
Active Ingredients: 10mg Minocycline
Maroxy

Treats: True Fungal infections of fish and eggs
Active Ingredients: Stabilized Chlorine Oxides
Maracide

Treats: Ick, Velvet, External Parasites
Active Ingredients: Malachite Green, Chitosan
CopperSafe

Treats: Ick, Velvet, External Parasites
Active Ingredients: Chelated coppersulfate
*Jungle/Tetra* Tetra has recently purchased Jungle Labs. I have noticed that some of their ingredients have changed or concentrations were reduced. I am somewhat skeptical of this brand now that the concentrations were changed and/or reduced.
Anti Parasite Pellets

Treats: internal parasites and some internal bacterial infections, including those responsible for Dropsy.
1% Metronidazole, 5% Praziquantel, 4% Levamisole
Parasite Clear Fizz Tabs

Treats: internal and external parasites including flukes, internal worms, lice, anchor worms and flagellates such as hexamita or spironucleus associated with hole-in-the-head disease.
Active Ingredients: metronidazole, praziquantel, trichlorfon, diflubenzuron
Tetra Parasite Guard

Treats: External and internal parasites including flukes, intestinal worms, lice, anchor worms, flagellates and hole-in-the-head disease
Active Ingredients: Praziqiantel, Diflubenzuron, Metronidazole, Acriflavine
Ick Treatment

Treats: Ick and velvet
Active Ingredients: victoria green, acriflavine
May stain aquatic and non-aquatic materials
Fungus Clear/Eliminator

Treats: a variety of fungus and bacteria-related conditions, including fungus, tail, fin and mouth rot, hemorrhagic septicemia, clamped fins, dropsy. Also clears open red sores, eye cloud, pop eye, swim bladder disease.
Active Ingredients: nitrofurazone, furazolidone, potassium dichromate, methylene blue, acriflavine
LifeGuard Useless

Treats: fungus, ick, red streaks, milky or shedding slime, flukes, bacterial gill disease, mouth and fin rot, clamped or torn fins, and ulcers
Active Ingredients: 1-chloro-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-4-imidazolidinone
Not suitable for scaleless fish, invertebrates, or newly set up tanks
*API*
Super Ick Cure

Treats: Ick
Active Ingredients: 3.6mg Malachite Green, 60mg Nitrofurazone
Fungus Cure

Treats: Fungus, Mouth Fungus (Columnaris), body slime, eye cloud, fin rot
Active Ingredients: 3mg Victoria Green B and 30mg Acriflavine
General Cure

Treats: Gill/skin flukes, hole-in-the-head disease, wasting disease (internal parasites), swollen abdomen (tapeworm or dropsy).
250mg Metronidazole, 75mg Praziqiental
Triple Sulfa

Treats: Hemorrhagic Septicemia, mouth fungus (columnaris), body slime, eye cloud, bacterial gill disease, fin rot
Active Ingredients: 664mg Sodium Sulfathiazole, 168mg Sodium Sulfamethazine, 168 Sodium Silfacetamide
T.C. Tetracycline

Treats: External and Internal bacterial infections including fin rot, bacterial gill disease, hemorrhagic septicemia, open red sores, body slime and eye cloud
500mg Tetracycline Hydrochloride
E.M. Erythromyacin

Treats: Fin rot, open sores, mouth fungus, hemorrhagic septicemia, and bacterial gill disease.
200mg Erythromycin
Melafix

Treats: damaged fins, ulcers and open wounds
Active Ingredients: Melaleuca 1%
Pimafix

Treats: fungal infections
Active Ingredients: Pimenta Racemusa 1%
Super Ick Cure (liquid)

Treats: Ick
Active Ingredients: 1.3 mg Benzaldehyde green, 1% PVP
Will stain
Use 1/2dose for scaless or week fish
Stress Coat

Treats: Reduces stress and aids repair of tissue
Neutralizes heavy metals
Active Ingredients: Sodium thiosulfate, Aloe Vera
*Kordon*
Rid Ich Plus

Treats: Ick
Active Ingredients: Formaldehyde 4.26%, Zinc free chloride salt of Malachite green
Do not use with additional Aquarium Salt
Do not use with invertebrates
“Safer” for scaless fish.
Ick Attack 100% Natural

Treats: Ick
Active Ingredients: 5% active ingredients including Naphthoquinone
“All natural ingredients”
Safe for most invertebrates and scaless fish
Fish Protector

Treats: Soothes missing scales and bruises, Adds extra slime coat, removes copper, zinc and iron. Aids activity of medications.
Active Ingredients: Vitamin B12 and Echinacea
*BettaFix*

Treats: Bacterial diseases, torn fins, red ulcers, slimy patches
Active Ingredients: Melaleuca
*Betta Revive*

Treats: protozoan, bacterial and fungal infections
Active Ingredients: neomycin sulfate <10%, methylene blue <0.5%, malachite green chloride <0.01%
*Alternative Medications*
Potassium Permangante

Treats: External bacterial and parasite infestations
Active Ingredients: KMNO4
*Antibacterial Treatments approved for fish*

Amikacin sulfate (Amiglyde-V®), Ceftazidime (Fortaz®), Enrofloxacin (Baytril®), Florfenicol, Nitrofurazone, Oxytetracycline, Trimethoprim sulfadiazine (Tribrissen)
*Parasiticides*

Diflubenzuron (Dimilin®), Fenbendazole (Panacur®), Formaldehyde, Levamisole phosphate (Ripercol®), Metronidazole (Flagyl®), Praziquantel (Droncit®), Trichlorfon


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## Creat

Great list the only thing I notice is you say Maroxy didnt work for you? I always have it on hand it always gives me the results I want... But thats just me all the other useless ones I agree with.


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## DarkMoon17

It might just be my personal experiences with Maroxy but I've just had no success with it. I'm not a big fan of the ingredient either, it's just a low dose of chlorine. They don't even say how much is in there. If it works for you then don't worry about it, Maroxy and I just don't get along!


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## Creat

Ha ha I wonder do medications have a different effect if used in different water hardness or pH?


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## metalbetta

What would be your recommendation out of these for fighting columnaris? Triple Sulfa is working on one of my infected fish, but not on the other. Looking for a stronger med... Trying to avoid using aquarium salt, since it seems to make this strain only multiply faster.


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## Sakura8

Sticky this as well, Dr. DarkMoon. This is an invaluable resource for us all.


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## DarkMoon17

metalbetta- Tetracycline and Erythromycin can both be used to fight columnaris. You might have more luck with Erythromycin because, from what I understand, some strains of bacteria have become immune to Tetracycline.

I would actually start treatment with a Potassium Permanganate dip, since that would kill most of the external bacteria and give the fish a fighting chance with the medicine. 

Sakura- If only I was a doctor now, I still have 6 years to go though D: But it's worth it. I hope this will help people out


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## Sakura8

6 yrs to qualify as a human doctor. You've definitely gotten your license as a betta doctor. This info is invaluable for us and will help all of us advise the right medicines to people. If you're ever interested, you could probably turn this info into a book, like a Kindle book or an e-book. I'd buy it in a flash.


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## DarkMoon17

Sorry, I meant Veterinarian! Vets are doctors as well. It takes 8 years to be a vet and even longer if I want to specialize in Exotics and Fish like I plan to. I've only gotten through 2 years so far, 6 to go. I don't like people enough to be a human doctor, animals are much more rewarding imo >.>


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## Sakura8

DarkMoon17 said:


> Sorry, I meant Veterinarian! Vets are doctors as well. It takes 8 years to be a vet and even longer if I want to specialize in Exotics and Fish like I plan to. I've only gotten through 2 years so far, 6 to go. *I don't like people enough to be a human doctor, animals are much more rewarding imo * >.>


I can't agree with you more. Wherever you set up practice, the fish owners will be very lucky to have you. As it is, we're so lucky to have you and your knowledge on the forum. Thanks, Dr. DarkMoon. :-D


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## fishman12

Definitely needs to be a sticky! Great resourse! Thanks!


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## metalbetta

DarkMoon17 said:


> metalbetta- Tetracycline and Erythromycin can both be used to fight columnaris. You might have more luck with Erythromycin because, from what I understand, some strains of bacteria have become immune to Tetracycline.
> 
> I would actually start treatment with a Potassium Permanganate dip, since that would kill most of the external bacteria and give the fish a fighting chance with the medicine.
> 
> Sakura- If only I was a doctor now, I still have 6 years to go though D: But it's worth it. I hope this will help people out


I've tried erythromycin w/o success with this strain, (I hope I'm not mixing these up) but it's a gram-positive med for a gram-negative bacteria. I have some left over from my last attempt at it. I wonder if I just used it too late?


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## sjones

Great info! I vote for a "sticky".One thing-shouldnt it be noted that BETAFIX and MELAFIX are controversial in use for betta- The melaleuca(tea tree oil) can burn the labyrinth organ and at higher doses cause death?


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## DarkMoon17

metalbetta said:


> I've tried erythromycin w/o success with this strain, (I hope I'm not mixing these up) but it's a gram-positive med for a gram-negative bacteria. I have some left over from my last attempt at it. I wonder if I just used it too late?


Ok, I looked into it for you. Most people really suggest a Potassium Permanganate dip followed by either Triple Sulfa, Kanamycin combined with Nitrofurazone, or Minocycline. 

SO my suggestion. If you can, get some PP and do the dip. THEN use a combination of Kanamycin Sulfate Powder and Jungle's Fungus Eliminator. That is the best combination for resistant/stubborn strains. Unfortunately, all three of those things can only be found online now... 

If you are unwilling/unable to buy meds online then you can try Triple Sulfa or Maracyn II combined with either Jungle's Fungus Eliminator or Super Ick Cure.


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## metalbetta

You rock. Thanks so much! We'll see what I can afford, I'm not supposed to be spending a whole lot since I'm moving next month and need all the $$$ I can get! I'll let you know how things go!


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## DarkMoon17

Metalbetta: No problem and good luck! If you are confused about dosing or the PP dip then just PM me 

sjones- that is one reason why I made them "green", as in "don't spend money on this" BUT, you are very right. I should have been more direct about _why_ people shouldn't buy it for their bettas specifically... I wish I could edit it!


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## metalbetta

I bet if you PMd Admin you'd be able to edit it.


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## Sakura8

I seriously want this stickyed so I can find it easier. It's really a valuable resource. Bumping just so I can find it.


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## DarkMoon17

Creat said:


> Ha ha I wonder do medications have a different effect if used in different water hardness or pH?


Sorry, I didn't see this earlier. Yes, some medicines aren't as effective at higher pHs and some things can even be harmful from what I understand. I'd imagine that as long as your pH is 6-8 the medicine should work with relative effectiveness? I don't know about hardness but I would guess that high hardness levels would interfere with some medications. 

What I wonder is if adding a dechlorinator _after_ adding the Maroxy would interfere with it? I don't have to add a dechlorinator but I usually add Stress Coat when I am medicating fish so it could have interfered with meds... They are stabilized chlorine oxides though so maybe dechlorinators can't remove them? Not sure.

metalbetta- There are a few things that I need to fix. I suck at spelling... So I'll probably end up PMing an admin and I'll include that at the same time. Thanks!


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## Oldfishlady

Nicely written Darkmoon, 
However, I want to stress the importance of proper use of medications...especially antibiotic......due to overuse, misuse etc.....drug-resistant strains of pathogens can be created, fish can become toxic and sometimes it can cause more harm than good......

It is important to know what you are treating and treat with the correct medication, correct dosage, correct duration....tossing medication in a tank.."just because" "just in case" etc....mixing one with another, pH, hardness, your own medication allergies...etc.....can do more harm than good.....be very careful with OTC medication use, know what you are treating and know the interactions....understand the dangers of these types of products on YOU, the fish, the tank and our Environment......

I used these type of products in my fish room for many years...... but have since found better methods to take care of most problems that can pop-up in tropical fish....often fish are misdiagnosed followed by a poor treatment choice....

Prevention is the best method, however, even with the best care..... issues with health can still happen or we get a sick fish to start and injuries......

By understanding fish-anatomy and physiology, general health an behavior in regards to what is normal, expected...etc.....often the fish isn't really sick or its an easy issue to resolve without much intervention other than quality water

Most problems in our tropical fish can be linked to water quality and stress that follows compromising the immune response.....

Tropical fish don't drink and the delivery method of these type of medication rely on absorption and luck....along with the medication directions is usually water changes....correct the water and often you correct the problem......

With any type of treatment.....it will not cure the fish overnight in most cases.......it takes time.......

Once you start antibiotic it is important to complete the course per package direction unless adverse reaction to the product are noted or ineffective....

Understand how the medications interact with the type of water you keep your fish in, degrade-with time, light, go out of date...etc......

Make sure you-yourself are not allergic to the product

Please don't misunderstand what I am saying....I don't have a problem with people that use OTC products/antibiotic with their Bettas/fish..nor do I want to sound discouraging....my intentions with this post is to help you understand the pro and cons of their use and hope that you will research before using them as a first line treatment choice......

A "Quick fix" will not work irregardless of treatment choice and antibiotic are not always the best choice...especially without a proper diagnosis to know what you are treating to start with.......


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## DarkMoon17

Thank you OFL, that is all very true. Prevention is by far the best medicine and this is not meant to make medicine a free for all. I am just tired of people going and getting random medications (usually the cheapest one on the shelf) and throwing it in there. Petstore employees aren't exactly helpful and most people just stare at the wall of meds with this confused-blank stare... 

All the med combinations I suggest are ones that I have used successfully in the past or are things veterinarians on VIN have listed. However, I think I'll back down on the med combinations since even though I know when/how to use them, that doesn't mean we were able to make the right diagnosis over the internet... 

Additionally, 
Never allow medications to touch your bare skin, don't breath them in (aka smell them), be careful not to touch your eyes or bite your nails after use and wash your hands thoroughly etc... 

Once you have medicated a tank, do what you can to limit exposure. Move the decor or whatever _before_ you add medications. 

And of course, situation permitting, use conservative methods like Aquarium Salt, Epsom Salt and water changes instead of medications. The overuse of medications creates medicine-resistant strains.

Upon further research, the only medications that are effective against columnaris (mouth fungus) are Triple Sulfa, Kanamycin Sulfate Powder, Maracyn II and medications containing a full dose of Nitrofurazone. Do not use API Fungus Cure or API Erythromycin...

Bettafix and Melafix should NOT be used on bettas as it can harm their labyrinth.


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## Sakura8

Yes, you and OFL have good points and certainly the best medicine is prevention, achieved by clean water. I just wish the pet store employees would emphasize this when selling fish (or any animal). But since they don't, sadly bettas get "sick" frequently. I feel because so little is known about fish still in comparison to mammals that medicines are a last resort but when that last resort _is_ reached, this thread by DarkMoon is very helpful and may prevent an accidental death by medication. 

For anyone else reading this, before medicating a betta, even before using aquarium salt or epsom salt, CHANGE THE WATER! It's amazing what a little fresh water can do for a betta.


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## DarkMoon17

*Medicine Addition*

*Maracyn-Oxy*




> non-antibiotic fish medication for the treatment and control of the symptoms associated with common bacterial, fungal and viral infections of fresh and saltwater fish. Effective treatment against true fungal infections of fish and eggs as well as common forms of bacterial fin and tail rot



stabilized chloride dioxides
 IMO worthless, it might treat true fungal infections and help treat bacterial related fin rot but has not shown much success treating anything else. It does not treat internal infections.

*Tetra Products VS. Jungle Fizz Tablets*
It appears that Tetra and Jungle are together now, however, they still carry separate medications. Tetra has made a series of medications that look the same as Jungle's line of fizz tablets, however, some of them do not wok as well. Jungle Fizz tabs are extremely effective and are not as harsh on fish. They are much better for treating weak or young fish than other medications. Tetra has changed the concentrations of the active ingredients so the tabs are not nearly as effective. "Lifeguard", which is a new product made by both companies, is not worth your money. Tetra is sold at Petsmart, Jungle is sold only at Walmart.
*Jungle's Fizz Tablets*

Fungus Clear 








Parasite Clear 








 Ick Clear








Lifeguard I DO NOT advise using Jungle's Lifeguard... it is a waste of money. There are conservative methods like Aquarium Salt that will work much better.








*Tetra Fizz Tabs*

Parasite Guard- different ingredients entirely








Ick Guard- same ingredients as Jungle's Ick Clear but it does not state the amounts in it.








Fungus Guard-they cut out 2 of the active ingredients... Jungle's version with the 2 other ingredients is much better








Lifeguard- useless...









That's all for now~


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## earthworm88

DarkMoon17 said:


> Sorry, I meant Veterinarian! Vets are doctors as well. It takes 8 years to be a vet and even longer if I want to specialize in Exotics and Fish like I plan to. I've only gotten through 2 years so far, 6 to go. I don't like people enough to be a human doctor, animals are much more rewarding imo >.>


LOL! I couldn't agree with you more on your last statement, at least the animals don't talk back to you or give you false statements! :-D If I had a dollar (inflation!) for every time that happens, I would be in retirement by now.

Just want to thank you for taking the time to compile such a comprehensive list of medications for our betta friends. Especially for a newbie like me who is still learning (or mostly worrying), it makes my life a lot easier (not to mention my bettas'), now I have a list to go by, I can stock up when I go home. 

Good luck with your studies! Thank you! 

Cheers


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## earthworm88

Wanted to add: 
Absolutely, I agree with everyone here that clean quality water is the first and foremost priority and should be the first line of defense. For someone like me, I am not able to get my hands on these good medications where I am at, so it's good to have an idea of what works for most people so I don't waste my time and money experimenting when timing is crucial in helping a betta. Certain meds are good to have on hand, but use them as the last resort or if only when a diagnosis is reached and confirmed. I appreciate all of your advice, suggestion and warnings, it is important to take heed and act responsibly. Thanks everyone!


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## Pitluvs

Just wanted to add we used Super Ick Cure, as recommended by a tropical forum, on our 29g and it cleared it. After 48h, only one fish has spots but after a water change and 24h again, no spots to be seen. Very tricky to use though! Must measure properly!


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## fightergirl2710

We're not worthy! We're not worthy!  
You're awesome darkmoon! Thanks for giving the ingredients as well, helps me out a lot!


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## JaydeDancer

DarkMoon17 said:


> I don't like people enough to be a human doctor, animals are much more rewarding imo >.>


Preach it sister! (Brother?)

I, too wanted to be a veterinarian. But it took me 6 years to get my associates and I decided I don't want to spend 20 years of my life in college. ^ ^;

So! I have decided to get a bachelor's in fish and wildlife sciences! Equally as fun, I think, I just won't be able to do the diagnosing or surgery part. If that goes well, maybe after I take a break from school for a few years I may decide to return to my dream of being a veterinarian. I think I need to give my husband a chance to get a degree first though. We are having to switch off. I'll get my degree first, and then he can have a crack at one if he wants to.

If you don't already, you should follow Dr. Evan Antin on FB or Instagram. He is a veterinarian who specializes in exotic species. Most notably reptiles.  He posts lots of fun things on his FB account.


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