# What do you think about a care sheet project?



## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

I can't find a free downloadable printable care sheet for betta anywhere.

I am a graphic designer and I want to design one, that is free, and looks awesome, that people can reproduce, download, hand out in front of petstores, walmart, paper their neighbor hood with, etc 

I was wondering if anyone here knows of a good free downloadable care sheet that is online already?

I thought there was a thread on a project like this a while ago

I don't even agree 100% with the care sheet on here(I believe it may have been the waterchanges.. but am not sure) but there is so much knowledge here with the members it really amazing.

Anyhow if you have any feedback on this project let me know. I would also love to get a good copywriter/editor to work on this project as well. Credit can be given but I don't want any "do not reproduce without permission" on it. I want it to be free to help bettas. I may even create a website that hosts the caresheet and would love to have links to forums such as this one.

We could even do a marketing campaigns and have stickers etc! For "Betta" Betta Care, link it with Peta2 etc, etc, possibilities are really endless


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## newarkhiphop (Apr 22, 2011)

Great idea. I think we should put one together though, some of the information Ive seen on the net and even heard from people is kind of fishy lol

It should have basic sections 

1. Tank Setup
2. Water and Cleaning
3. Food and Betta Health


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## bahamut285 (Dec 10, 2010)

*Feedback*

I hate to be the bringer of bad news but, as much as I would LOVE to have this happen, and possibly play a part in it, I don't think this would take.

The best form of advertising is through word of mouth, because to be frank, people don't read. I have worked in several places before that have signs with varying information, and the only ones that people read are for determining which bathroom to go to (even then I've seen...mistakes.). There are signs right in front of the printer on how to use it where I work, yet I get daily questions on how to print. The instructions are LITERALLY taped to the printer.

How many people have even tripped over those: CAUTION! WET FLOOR! signs? It's embarrassing.

Also, as newarkhiphop said, most of the "Information" on the internet, and even through word of mouth is relatively misinformed or plain incorrect...so we should expect the same treatment from other people who believe they are incredibly well informed.

As per my marketing class, the three main things that "sell" and psychologically attract people to advertisements are: Sex, babies, fuzzy animals (emphasis on the fuzzy). 

The majority of pet owners have dogs or cats (I guess horses too), and as we all well know here, said majority of pet owners have the "It's just a fish" kind of thinking. Most of my rez-mates think fish are "high-maintenance decorations". A few sarcastic people are like: "If you love fish so much, why do you eat fish?"...I sarcastically respond with: "I eat dog, too"

I'm sure many people are aware of the website deviantArt. If you look up "Fish" in the search, I think about 50% of them are pictures of a fish in either a lightbulb casing or a wineglass. Understandably most of them are in there for a few minutes just to take a photo, but everybody will be all: OMG! THIS IS ART! I LOVE THE COLOURS OF YOUR FISH!!11oneeleven. However, try putting a dog in relatively similar situation and you'll get PETA followers all up in your face.

I've honestly just have tried to come to terms with the fact that other than the cool people, nobody gives a second through towards fish. Nobody truly understands that we love our fish just as much as we love our family (including the dog/cat, haha). Nobody even understands WHY.

However, my feedback aside, ignorant people aside...I want to help. I don't care if I have to be the next MLK for fish, I want to help. Fish are beautiful and exotic creatures just like any other animal on this earth. 

To be totally honest, even before you posted this, I've been wanting to write a news article on deviantArt about people's portrayal of fish in the deviantArt community. SJones, now that you've posted this, I think I have found my resolve. Let me know if you need any help at all...I've had training in CSS, HTML and PSP (Photoshop).


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## Luimeril (Dec 29, 2010)

i like this idea. it's not a bad idea at all, in fact. many people use sites like google when they need to(usually when their fish is sick, and they're looking for the reason. IF they care enough), and if one of the words they search for is in your care sheet, they'll find it, and be like "oohhhh! THAT's why he's sick!" and possibly fix their mistakes. it's also not a bad idea to pass it out at little pet stores, for them to hang by the betta section. :d or even pass out to people who buy bettas(though... i've never seen that happen. ._. except at Petco. during that "build a betta" event.).


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

Okay bahamut285 I'm going to hold you to that!

Thanks for your analysis on why people are indifferent to fish.
Yes, it does bother me personally that some people say they are above animals, I believe this allows them to separate themselves from and therefore exploit them more easily.
Unfortunately if you have ever observed how human apes are..well.
I also think religion has separated us from animals. I'd be happy to critique your article when you have it done or while you are forming it-I love critical thinking.
BUt not to get off topic.

The first goal is to write a sheet that people can access proper information from, it will be readily available and free, downloadable and cheaply reproducable and printable (8.5"x11" black ink only)

The second goal you brought up is to change how people think, this can be done and has been done over the years (look at dolphin safe tuna for example) IT's all marketing and with the internet it is now possible to reach everyone who has a computer and the internet ( okay who speaks english- for now, perhaps we can get language translation!)

What do you think?

Awesome feedback everyone! wasn't there a care sheet thread on here a while ago that members were writing?

So these are the recommended main sections:
1. Tank Setup
2. Water and Cleaning
3. Food and Betta Health
anyone have input on sub sections?


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

I feel a wikipedia coming on!!!!!

ARG! The wikipedia betta fish page uses petco caresheets as a linked reference, this must be debated


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## ollief9 (Mar 16, 2011)

I hate wikipedia.


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## bahamut285 (Dec 10, 2010)

I think newarkhiphop's suggestions should fill up a piece of paper nicely. I think common myths should go on the paper too.

Maybe try to get a wikia page? It's those free wiki-type pages (at least I think it's free). There's already one on there called bettasplendensfish.wikia.com but it's...quite...empty. Haha. It also has a pretty cheesy layout and doesn't look professional at all.


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

This is going to take a while, I'm typing away yet have just scratched the surface 
myths is a good idea!


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## newarkhiphop (Apr 22, 2011)

Wiki sounds like a cool idea BUT that should be like "continued " section of the much much simpler Intro to Betta Guide :-D

If you go straight to a wiki with all the information from some of us who are more knowledgeable it will turn off the average person who JUST bought betta and is looking for care tips

but a wiki like this would still be great , but i think a 1-2pg betta guide with good, solid and simple information would work best to start off with


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## bahamut285 (Dec 10, 2010)

newarkhiphop said:


> Wiki sounds like a cool idea BUT that should be like "continued " section of the much much simpler Intro to Betta Guide :-D
> 
> If you go straight to a wiki with all the information from some of us who are more knowledgeable it will turn off the average person who JUST bought betta and is looking for care tips
> 
> but a wiki like this would still be great , but i think a 1-2pg betta guide with good, solid and simple information would work best to start off with


+1 to this. The only issue is somehow distributing said 1-2 page betta guide. A lot (if not all) LFS/LPS would probably kick you out of the store, and probably call the police if you're outside the store doing it... ...I can't think of anything @[email protected] hmmm


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## newarkhiphop (Apr 22, 2011)

bahamut285 said:


> +1 to this. The only issue is somehow distributing said 1-2 page betta guide. A lot (if not all) LFS/LPS would probably kick you out of the store, and probably call the police if you're outside the store doing it... ...I can't think of anything @[email protected] hmmm


Yea this true. 

Online would be the best place i think betta/fish forums like this and Facebook etc and even if the OP creates the guide in the right format we can put it on 

http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/templates/?CTT=97

spread it as Microsoft document etc etc, before we know it will be all over the place


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## bahamut285 (Dec 10, 2010)

DONE: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?p=669220


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## newarkhiphop (Apr 22, 2011)

DarkMoon17, has a EXCELLENT one too, this is a good one to build on and make into care sheet

http://news.deviantart.com/article/108983/


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

I am so encouraged by all these great ideas and feedback!
I need someone to help write the sheet at this point, because it is going to take me forever ( I started working on it and realized how much research and time it is going to take) Who wants to get in on this awesome project??! I could email you my rough draft and we could send it back and forth. If not it will be a while getting this done and I was hoping to keep up the momentum.

I was thinking if we get it roughed out we could post it here and get feedback to perfect it!

The one thing that is very important with this care sheet is not to come of as biased or judgmental as that immediately puts the reader on the defensive.

The other thing I that is important is to maintain the integrity of the care sheet and I am thinking that giving credit to or links to any thing really biased may also turn off readers, so that's why I am not opposed to giving individual credit to people but I think we should cite sources that are non-biased and I am not sure now about giving links to some websites that are kind of biased. Any thoughts on this?
Anyone know of any resources I could cite?


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

bahamut285 said:


> +1 to this. The only issue is somehow distributing said 1-2 page betta guide. A lot (if not all) LFS/LPS would probably kick you out of the store, and probably call the police if you're outside the store doing it... ...I can't think of anything @[email protected] hmmm


YOU can distribute material in front of pet stores! There are some legal guidelines to it and yes the store may not like it. Although it will put pressure on the stores to change their ways. I don't know why stores are against proper betta care, they would actually make much more money if they sold a tank set up and heater to everyone who bought a fish. The reason they are likely against it is it hits at the larger problem of "pets" being sold at all. Animals that are sold for money is a huge industry hence the walmart of the pet world "Petsmart", get it? 
Any how you do have the right to hand out sheets like this.
I will have to find out and post the guidelines, I would assume there is some info on how to legally hand out info/stage a protest on the internet.


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

newarkhiphop said:


> Yea this true.
> 
> Online would be the best place i think betta/fish forums like this and Facebook etc and even if the OP creates the guide in the right format we can put it on
> 
> ...


What is this exactly? I am not familiar with it, is it for formatting text? How does it work and what are the advantages to using it over having a downloadable pdf that can be printed? I def. am interested in this idea if it makes the info more accessible!


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## newarkhiphop (Apr 22, 2011)

sjones said:


> What is this exactly? I am not familiar with it, is it for formatting text? How does it work and what are the advantages to using it over having a downloadable pdf that can be printed? I def. am interested in this idea if it makes the info more accessible!



Its the Microsoft office document website. Once the document is done you can upload the file up there but it has to be in MS Office format (excel,word,powerpoint,publisher) them people can search on there and download it for free. Its just another option to have apart from the .pdf one, which would work the best i think

I think as far as handing it out at places, as long as the wording comes off as neutral and not attacking establishments that sell pets i dont see them having a problem with it


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

Okay, I am creating it in MS Word, excellent idea, especially if it reaches more people, perhaps we could delegate this to you when it's done!?


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## bahamut285 (Dec 10, 2010)

sjones said:


> I don't know why stores are against proper betta care, they would actually make much more money if they sold a tank set up and heater to everyone who bought a fish.


This reason has been mentioned several times in different sections of this forum. It's purely a marketing thing. Tanks and heaters arrive from different distributors such as Marineland or TopFin or whoever. Petsmart/Petco/Walmart are only allowed to upmarket the price by something like 5%-10% of what TopFin or Marineland wants them to sell it at.

On the other hand, lets say a 200-300 fish spawn cost them something like $100. That's $0.33 - $0.50 per fish. However they usually sell feeder fish at something around $1.00+. That's already 200%+ of the unit price and 100%+ profit for them. In the end, that spawn will end up making $200-$300, which is $100-200 PROFIT for them, which is way more profit than any tank they sell, regardless of how many fish die at the store.


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

bump
still looking for a writer for this article I have it about 1/3 written, I could help edit and collaborate and will do design
The care sheet needs to be written neutrally with sources cited (ideally) any one who want to help please let me know


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## laughing (Mar 12, 2011)

Yes, I started this project a bit ago. I worked on the care sheet, it's on my other computer! ^^ Although there's nothing "spiffy" or "fancy" about it due to my lack of computer programs. It's just a word document. 

I'd be happy to post it on this thread if you'd like to add more graphic design and downloading abilities to it!


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

Sure, if you are okay with the conditions of the project and having your work edited I'd like to see it!


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## laughing (Mar 12, 2011)

Hmm. I think I'm doing it wrong. 

Does anyone know how to upload it??


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

can you copy and paste the text?


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

Egad- Here is my care sheet- would appreciate any feedback, arguments, "No! You are wrong's", insults, help etc etc

I am trying to write a basic care sheet here so please note that I am not going into great detail on anything but the basic essentials:

ALSO I didn't really want to write this and I think it shows, i just want to design it and get the info out there, so I think I said "Do this or your fish will die" a lot. which may seem redundant and over dramatic!-If you want to help rewrite please feel free to do so and post it here. As I stated before it is important to have the info seem neutral. Tanks!

Betta Fish Care Sheet

Betta Fish are not “low maintenance fish"

First and foremost betta fish must always be housed separately. They instinctively will fight and kill each other if kept in the same tank. They will also fight with and try to kill other fish. This is why it is important to house them by themselves. There are a few exceptions to this however they are recommended only to the experienced fish keeper. First time betta owners may find it easier to start with the following basics:

Tank size:
The idea that betta fish can be kept in small containers is largely a myth. While betta fish can survive for short periods of time in a small amount of water, it is not healthy for them to live in small containers because fish constantly secrete ammonia, a toxic chemical, through their gills and waste. Betta fish are unusual in the fact that they have a breathing labyrinth, which allows them to breathe similar to humans, as well as the ability to take in some oxygen through their gills. For this reason betta fish need to have access to the water’s surface to breathe.
A betta fish in a bowl or small tank will need frequent water changes as this ammonia will build up and create a toxic environment for the fish. Living in high levels of ammonia even for a short period of time can harm the betta, as the ammonia burns the betta’s body, internally and externally. This is why the small cups they are kept in in pet store or sometimes the small bags are inevitably death traps for these fish. The water is not changed daily and because of that the ammonia and bacteria builds up leaving the betta susceptible to infection and disease and eventually causing death.
Generally the larger the tank the betta is in the better for the fish and even for the caregiver because less water changes and maintenance are needed.

A 1 gallon tank would need a 100% water change every other day. 
2 gallon – 100% water change every other day.
3 gallon-100% water change every 3-4 days
5 gallon –100% water change once a week with a partial change during the week
10 gallon – 100% change once a week

It is crucial to do a 100% water change on any tank that is uncycled because ammonia will build up in it overtime. When you do a partial water change the ammonia is only diluted, and still will build up.

What if I have a filter in my tank? Even with a filter the water change schedule for anything under 5 gallons should be followed. This is because in order for a filter to help your tank the tank itself has to be properly cycled. Cycling a tank is recommended for tanks larger than 3 gallons only and is a process that typically takes about 4 weeks. It is recommended to cycle your tank before you get your fish, unfortunately most people don’t know this when they purchase their betta. Information on proper tank cycling can be found online (WHERE?)

When doing water changes it is important to make sure the new water is the same temperature as the water your betta is currently in. Adding a betta to water that is colder or warmer than their current temperature can cause the betta to go into shock and possibly even die. A good investment is an in tank thermometer to measure the temperatures of both the old and new water. These can be bought inexpensively for a few dollars at many fish supply stores.

Acclimating your betta: you can use a plastic food grade cup and float it in your tank prior to transferring the betta into the new water. 

Cleaning your tank. When doing 100% water changes you need only to clean your tank with hot water. Rinse of all the decorations in the tank. DO NOT USE SOAP or any chemicals in your tank, as these are very dangerous to your fish!

It is crucial to add a water conditioner to the water you intend to use for your fish. Water conditioners remove chemicals in tap water that would other wise kill your betta fish. 

Betta prefer shallower water, the height of a ten gallon tanks and a twenty gallon long tank, is optimal while a twenty gallon tall tank is more of a challenge for the betta to swim to the top an get oxygen. A betta fish will often rest on the bottom of a tank but would prefer to rest on an ornament in the tank such as a live or silk plant because it is closer to the surface, which they have to access often to breathe.

Speaking of décor, for betta the following is recommended: silk plants in lieu of plastic, as plastic plants can have sharp edges that can rip your betta’s fins. 
Hiding spots: betta fish love a good hiding spot, an inexpensive “cave” would be a terra cotta made in USA. It is recommended to look for ones made in the USA as ones made in other countries may have harmful ingredients in. If you chose a terra cotta pot for a hide be sure to plug the hole in the bottom of it as betta can become trapped in the opening and drown. You could lodge a piece of aquarium gravel in it or glue it shut with breaking and sanding down or filling in hole with aquarium sealant. Another option is creatively breaking the pots and sanding them down (easily done with sandpaper) to make arches that your betta can swim through and hide in. You can also use a food grade unbroken cup in the tank as a hide.
A betta with hiding spots such as plants and caves will feel more comfortable in their environment and will likely be more outgoing and healthy.
DO not use metal or shells in your tank.
Gravel is not necessary in a betta tank and often it is easier to clean smaller tanks if there is no gravel at all. You can use a turkey baster to remove waste easily from the bottom of the tank to prevent build up ammonia in between water changes. If you do use gravel you can rinse it out in warm water to remove waste when cleaning your tank.

Temperature:
Betta fish are tropical fish and do best at temps of 76-81 degrees. For this reason it is recommended to get a heater for your tank. There are several types of heaters available on the market. The best kind to get (and also the most expensive) would be an adjustable heater. These are especially useful because you can set the temperature to what ever you prefer and also be able to adjust it if the fish gets sick (see betta diseases). The second best option would be a preset heater. These are often sold with a preset of 78 degrees. They are not adjustable and sometimes they will not heat to the correct setting. Also these heaters have been reported to have more of a likelihood of malfunctioning and possibly cooking your fish. The third type of heater would be and internal heating pad type heater. These raise the temperature of the water a few degrees from what is would normally be at, given your room temperature. While these can be helpful, because they fluctuate and do not maintain a constant temperature they are considered not as good for a betta fish because temperature fluctuation puts stress on the betta fish.
It should also be pointed out that water temperature is the not the same as the room temperature the betta tank is in. Water temperature will be a few degrees colder than room temperature.

While betta can live at lower temps it is often said that this is the “survive, not thrive” phenomenae where the betta isn’t being kept in optimal care conditions.



Feeding betta:
Betta have small stomachs (only as big as their eye). Often betta are overfed and this can lead to health problems. It is recommended to feed your betta a high protein pellet that is specially formulated for betas once or twice a day. When choosing a betta pellet look at the ingredients, the first ingredient should be a protein, not a filler. You can give your betta 2-3 pellets 2 times a day. 

Common diseases and treatment----


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## Tisia (Mar 15, 2011)

sjones said:


> Betta have small stomachs (only as big as your eye).


*their eye
>_>


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

Tisia said:


> *their eye
> >_>


yay! thanks, will change that! that would indeed be a large betta tummy!lol


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## ollief9 (Mar 16, 2011)

> A 1 gallon tank would need a 100% water change every other day.
> 2 gallon – 100% water change every other day.
> 3 gallon-100% water change every 3-4 days
> 5 gallon –100% water change once a week with a partial change during the week
> 10 gallon – 100% change once a week


Can I just say, I always that 100% water changes were stressful for fish? Several small water changes a week would be much, much better, in my opinion. In a filtered, cycled tank you only need to do 50% a week.



> Information on proper tank cycling can be found online (WHERE?)


TropicalFishKeeping.com.


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## Tisia (Mar 15, 2011)

a little stressed is better than getting ammonia poisoning. like sjones mentioned, partials just dilute it, not remove it completely, eventually it's going to build up. s/he does mention it's different for cycled tanks as well, though maybe giving a little more info about water changes for cycled tanks might be a good addition


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## Twilight Storm (Apr 14, 2011)

You can add in white PVC elbows without threads as being a good cave/hiding place. My guys love theirs. Although its not necessary. Looks good so far.


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

thank you for the feedback! I have decided to add a section on disease and euthanasia as well- ruh roh
Anything I'm missing?

who wants to write a section on velvet and ich, ye olde finrot or the dangers of betta meds like melafix/bettafix?! 
Volunteers?! Remember this is a free care sheet aimed at helping betta fish=show some love!


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

This is what the layout is going to look like, it will be a front and back or two sheet black and white print out that can cheaply be downloaded, printed and copied...
AND distributed in front of petstores hint hint


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## 1fish2fish (Sep 10, 2009)

I'd like to help but I can't read all the replys on my phone. You can email me at moonriverbettas AT mail.com if you need editing or info or something like that. I'm also admin of a betta wiki that I don't really know how to use so that's an available resource as soon as I can get to an actual computer and not my phone


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

great I'm emailing you now especially since I just wrote the disease bit and quoted wiki a lot-arg! That section is a bit of a mess and I would love to see if you can improve it! (especially since I have had no real experience with ich or velvet)


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## 1fish2fish (Sep 10, 2009)

Ok  I might not be able to respond till tomorrow morning but I'll make sure to bring my laptop to work and get back to you if I can't answer from my phone.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

Holy crap!
I just came across an article here:http://www.wikihow.com/Tell-if-a-Betta-Fish-Is-Sick#Tips that said to change TEN PERCENT of your bettas water ONCE A WEEK! Arg! I can't believe this kind of "information" is out there! Who writes these? Anyways I edited it.


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## Tisia (Mar 15, 2011)

I think maybe you linked the wrong article? that one says 100% daily for 1 gallons


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

I edited it to say that!!


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## Tisia (Mar 15, 2011)

oh, I missed that part, lol


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## newarkhiphop (Apr 22, 2011)

sjones said:


> This is what the layout is going to look like, it will be a front and back or two sheet black and white print out that can cheaply be downloaded, printed and copied...
> AND distributed in front of petstores hint hint




cant read the attached file :shock:


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

newarkhiphop said:


> cant read the attached file :shock:


the care sheet is pasted in a post a few pages back,
I have some edits to do (lots of typos) but take a look at that if you want to let me know what you think I will be posting the newest version soon as I get it done, 1fish2fish gave me some good feedback and i need to make some changes first


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## dramaqueen (Jul 7, 2008)

We have articles on cycling at TropicaslFishKeeping.com. I think there is one at Bettafish.com so there is no reason to recommend other forums.


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## bahamut285 (Dec 10, 2010)

I forget if I posted this here

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=66595


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

*Finished care sheet in 2 parts-please redistribute freely-thanks for everyone's help*

I can also email the pdf I made to anyone who wants a copy to redistribute-it is made to be reproduced cheaply as xerox on a single sheet of paper.

Betta Fish Care Sheet 
This care sheet was written in hopes that it will help spread the word about proper betta fish care and improve their lives. This care sheet is free for sharing, there is no copyright on it, please feel free to copy it in any format you wish and distribute it in any manner you see fit-the goal is to help betta fish.

So you got a new betta fish? Betta fish are loyal loveable pets BUT there are many misconceptions concerning their proper care. Sometimes, even pet stores will give wrong information about them, (have you ever seen betta languishing in those tiny little cups in pet stores?) because they are ultimately concerned with profit.This information is intended to help betta fish and the people who love them!Let’s get started! 

First and foremost betta fish must always be housed separately. They instinctively will fight and kill each other if kept in the same tank. They will also fight with and try to kill other fish. This is why it is important to house them by themselves. There are a few exceptions to this however they are recommended only to the experienced fish keeper. First time betta owners may find it easier to start with the following basics:

Tank size: The idea that betta fish can be kept in small containers is largely a myth. While betta fish can survive for short periods of time in a small amount of water, it is not healthy for them to live in small containers because fish constantly secrete ammonia, a toxic chemical, through their gills and waste. Betta fish are unusual in the fact that they have a breathing labyrinth, which allows them to breathe similar to humans, as well as the ability to take in some oxygen through their gills. For this reason betta fish need to have access to the water’s surface to breathe.
A betta fish in a bowl or small tank will need frequent water changes as this ammonia will build up and create a toxic environment for the fish. Living in high levels of ammonia even for a short period of time can harm the betta, as the ammonia burns the betta’s body, internally and externally. This is why the small cups they are kept in pet store or sometimes the small bags are inevitably death traps for fish. The water is not changed daily and because of that the ammonia and bacteria builds up leaving the betta susceptible to infection and disease, eventually causing death. 
Ammonia is invisible, so even though the water “looks clean” it can be deadly for your betta! Generally the larger the tank the betta is in the better for the fish and even for the caregiver because less water changes and maintenance are needed. Larger tanks generally suit betta fish by giving them more space to explore and a better quality of life.

Water changes:
A 1 gallon tank would need a 100% water change every day. 
2 gallon – 100% water change every other day.
3 gallon-100% water change every 3-4 days
5 gallon –100% water change once a week with a partial change during the week
10 gallon – 100% change once a week
It is crucial to do a 100% water change on any tank that is uncycled because ammonia will build up in it overtime. When you do a partial water change the ammonia is only diluted, and still will build up. 
The single most important thing you can do for your betta’s health is to provide frequent water changes.

What if I have a filter in my tank? Even with a filter the water change schedule for anything less than 5 gallons should be followed. This is because in order for a filter to help your tank the tank itself has to be properly cycled. Cycling a tank is recommended for tanks larger than 3 gallons only and is a process that typically takes about 4 weeks. It is recommended to cycle your tank before you get your fish, unfortunately most people don’t know this when they purchase their betta. Information on proper tank cycling can be found online. Please visit Better Betta Care on Facebook for links.
There are many products sold in pet stores that claim they can instantly or quickly cycle your tank. Please realize that these claims may not be true and really do your research. In order to properly cycle your tank from scratch it will take about 4 weeks, an ammonia source and you will also need a fresh water master test kit. There is no easy way to short cut around proper cycling so be sure to do your research.

When doing water changes it is important to make sure the new water is the same temperature as the water your betta is currently in. Adding a betta to water that is colder or warmer than their current temperature can cause the betta to go into shock and possibly even die. A good investment is an in tank thermometer to measure the temperatures of both the old and new water. These can be bought inexpensively for a few dollars at many fish supply stores.

Acclimating your betta: you can use a plastic food grade cup and float it in your tank prior to transferring the betta into the new water. 
Cleaning your tank. When doing 100% water changes you need only to clean your tank with hot water. Rinse of all the decorations in the tank. NEVER USE SOAP or any chemicals in your tank, as these are very dangerous to your fish!
It is crucial to add a water conditioner to the water you intend to use for your fish. 
Water conditioners remove chemicals in tap water that would other wise kill your betta fish. 
Betta prefer shallower water, the height of a ten gallon tanks and a twenty gallon long tank, is optimal while a twenty gallon tall tank is more of a challenge for the betta to swim to the top an get oxygen. A betta fish will often rest on the bottom of a tank but would prefer to rest on an ornament in the tank such as a live or silk plant because it is closer to the surface, which they have to access often to breathe.

Betta fish are jumpers! For this reason they need a breathable cover or lid on their tank, to prevent them from jumping out.
What if my betta fish jumps out of its tank?
Wet your hand with its tank water and gently place the betta back in its water. Even dried out betta can sometimes recover when placed back in water due to its breathing labyrinth. 
Speaking of décor, for betta the following is recommended: silk plants in lieu of plastic, as plastic plants can have sharp edges that can rip your betta’s fins. 

Hiding spots: betta fish love a good hiding spot, an inexpensive “cave” would be a terra cotta made in USA. It is recommended to look for ones made in the USA as ones made in other countries may have harmful ingredients in. If you chose a terra cotta pot for a hide be sure to plug the hole in the bottom of it as betta can become trapped in the opening and drown. You could lodge a piece of aquarium gravel in it or fill in hole with aquarium sealant. Another option is creatively breaking the pots and sanding them down (easily done with sandpaper) to make arches that your betta can swim through and hide in. You can also use a food grade unbroken cup in the tank as a hide.
A betta with hiding spots such as plants and caves will feel more comfortable in their environment and will likely be more outgoing and healthy.
Do not use metal or real shells in your tank.Gravel is not necessary in a betta tank and often it is easier to clean smaller tanks if there is no gravel at all. You can use a turkey baster to remove waste easily from the bottom of the tank to prevent build up ammonia in between water changes. If you do use gravel you can rinse it out in warm water to remove waste when cleaning your tank.

Temperature: Betta fish are tropical fish and do best at temps of 76-81 degrees. For this reason it is recommended to get a heater for your tank. 
There are several types of heaters available on the market. The best kind to get (and also the most expensive) would be an adjustable heater. These are especially useful because you can set the temperature to what ever you prefer and also be able to adjust it if the fish gets sick (see betta diseases). The second best option would be a preset heater. These are often sold with a preset of 78 degrees. They are not adjustable and sometimes they will not heat to the correct setting. Also these heaters have been reported to have more of a likelihood of malfunctioning and possibly cooking your fish. The third type of heater would be and internal heating pad type heater. These raise the temperature of the water a few degrees from what is would normally be at, given your room temperature. While these can be helpful, because they fluctuate and do not maintain a constant temperature they are considered not as good for a betta fish because temperature fluctuation puts stress on the betta fish.
It should also be pointed out that water temperature is the not the same as the room temperature the betta tank is in. Water temperature will be a few degrees colder than room 
temperature.
While betta can live at lower temps it is often said that this is the “survive, not thrive” phenomena where the betta isn’t being kept in optimal care conditions.


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

Feeding betta:
Betta have small stomachs (only as big as their eye). Often betta are overfed and this can lead to health problems. It is recommended to feed your betta a high protein pellet that is specially formulated for bettas once or twice a day. When choosing a betta pellet look at the ingredients, the first ingredient should be a protein, not a filler. You can give your betta 2-3 pellets 2 times a day. Overfeeding your betta can cause constipation and Swim Bladder Disease (please see discussion of Swim Bladder Disease on Better Betta Care’s Facebook page)

Behavior and Behavioral Problems: When kept under the proper conditions betta fish can thrive. They will come to recognize the face of their owner and respond when they walk in the room. Because of this interaction the bond between bettas and their owners can become quite strong.

A betta that is healthy is an active colorful betta. They may flare at you or build a bubble nest (a nest of bubbles floating on top of the water). This shows they are happy and healthy. If a betta is withdrawn, losing color, turning grey, or hiding this is usually a sign that something is wrong. Sometimes betta take a while to settle into a new environment and may seem withdrawn when you first get them. This should improve over time. If it doesn’t it’s a sign of something being wrong. Poor water quality or disease may be the cause of unusual behavior. Start with a water change and go from there. Good water quality is the number one thing you can provide for your betta to make them happy and healthy.

A common behavioral problem with betta fish is tail biting. The betta will bite their own tail or fins when under stress. This can be disturbing for a betta owner. It is important to keep the water clean if tail biting occurs to prevent the exposed tissue from becoming infected. Aquarium salt may be added to their water as well but it is not recommended to use it long term (not over ten days). Learn about aquarium salt in the disease and treatment section.

Common diseases and treatment- Overfeeding your betta can cause constipation and Swim Bladder Disease. If your betta’s stomach becomes bloated and they are not passing waste stop feeding them. Fast you betta for up to three days. This may solve the issue. If your betta is prone to bloating it may help to soak their food first in treated (conditioned) water or even a little fresh garlic juice before feeding it to them (with tweezers). If your fish stays bloated put them in a small heated hospital tank and add Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) at 2 teaspoon per gallon to their water. This will often relax the duct and enable the betta to pass the waste. Be sure to do 100% water changes when using Epsom salt as you do not want to accidentally increase the dilution of salt and harm your fish.

Swim Bladder Disease (SBD): this can cause your betta to float on their side. Try fasting the betta and try the Epsom salt treatment and lower the level of the water in the tank if the betta has trouble swimming up for air. If it doesn’t clear up your betta may have chronic SBD. In that case you can set up a special low water level tank for your betta to make it easier for them to swim around, use silk plants for them to rest on and to give them support.

Fin rot: This is caused by poor water quality. Your betta may even already have fin rot from the pet store cup they were kept in. If you can put the betta in a small heated hospital tank. Do water changes everyday at 100%. You may add aquarium salt (pure sodium chloride) at 1 teaspoon per gallon to their water. You may increase this up to 3 tsp per gallon, work up slowly to the 3 teaspoons however, adding a teaspoon at a time every 12 hours for 36 hours, so that the betta does not go into shock. In extreme cases an antibiotic may need to be used. It is recommended not to use antibiotics unless your fish has been properly diagnosed however. 

Many betta “medicines: sold as cure-alls at the pet store can actually harm your betta, a widely sold medication called Melafix and Bettafix are controversial in the betta fish community as these medications allegedly may harm the betta fish’s breathing labyrinth.*

Ich or Ick (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)
will present itself as small white salt sprinkled on your betta. Ich is a parasite and can be treated by raising the temperature of your betta’s tank to 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit and adding 3 teaspoons of aquarium salt per gallon to your betta’s water. Work up slowly to the 3 teaspoons however, adding a teaspoon at a time every 12 hours for 36 hours, so that the betta does not go into shock. Be sure to vacuum the bottom of your tank daily as the parasite will fall off and needs to be removed. Since Ich is cyclical it is important to treat the entire tank. Ich has a life cycle that can last up to 14 days so keep treating even if the symptoms disappear. If the salt and heat treatment fail. Rachel Hunt writes “Most medications geared toward Ick treatment contain Malachite Green or copper. Commonly available brand names are: Malachite Green, Coppersafe, Quick Cure, Aquarisol, and Maracide” in her excellent online article Ick Information and Symptoms(http://www.petfish.net/articles/Bettas/ick_mushi.php)**

Velvet: another common betta disease is velvet
Wikipedia describes Velvet and treatment as
“Initially, infected fish are known to ‘flash,’ or sporadically dart from one end of an aquarium to another, scratching against objects in order to relieve their discomfort. They will also ‘clamp’ their fins very close to their body, and exhibit lethargy. If untreated, a ‘dusting’ of particles (which are in fact the parasites) will be seen all over the infected fish, ranging in color from brown to gold to green. In the most advanced stages, fish will have difficulty respirating, will often refuse food, and will eventually die of hypoxia due to necrosis of their gill tissue. (^ “Shedding Light on Velvet Disease”. Federation of British Aquatic Societies. 2005. Retrieved 2011-05-01.)” ***
Treatment: For minor cases of velvet that medications usually aren’t needed. Total darkness (as Velvet is a phototropic parasite) and salt in conjunction with high temps (86* area) will usually kill the parasite for good. It is necessary to treat the whole tank as well as the fish to prevent re-infestations.
“Sodium chloride (aquarium salt) is believed to mitigate the reproduction of Velvet, however this treatment is not itself sufficient for the complete eradication of an outbreak. Additional, common medications added directly to the fish’s environment include copper sulfate, methylene blue, formalin, malachite green and acriflavin, all of which can be found in common fish medications designed specifically to combat this disease. Additionally, because Velvet parasites derive a portion of their energy from photosynthesis, leaving a tank in total darkness for seven days provides a helpful supplement to chemical curatives. Finally, some enthusiasts recommend raising the water temperature of an infected fish’s environment, in order to quicken the life cycle (and subsequent death) of Velvet parasites; however this tactic is not practical for all fish, and may induce immunocompromising stress.( “Freshwater Velvet - Piscinoodinium pillulare & Costia”. Aquarium and Pond Answers. 2007. Retrieved 2011-05-01.)”***

Columnaris and Saprolegnia: Often present themselves as fuzzy white of grey patches on a bettas body. Saprolegnia is often found on tips of fins whereas Columnaris presents itself on the body. Both these diseases are caused by prro water quality. It is recommended to put your betta in a small quarantine container with aquarium salt and daily 100% waterchanges. Columanris can be a fast acting disease, if it doesn’t respons to the aquarium salt treatment it ,ay be neccesary to treat with antibiotics. 

Why is it so hard to find proper information betta care online or from pet store employees?

Always check who your source is. If they are selling something they are likely to say anything to make a sale. Many pet store employees are not actually experts on fish care. Look for unbiased information when researching anything, especially online. Betta fish forums are usually a good source for betta information, as they are comprised of many different members with many levels of knowledge. 

I would like to thank the members at 
www.bettafish.com for their help and feedback when I got my first betta fish. Almost all my knowledge of betta fish was learned from them, they are a great and caring online community of betta fish lovers! A number of members contributed their advice and knowledge to this project.
I would also highly recommend 
www.ultimatebettas.com for help and support with betta fish, and would like to give thanks to the members there who helped write this sheet.

Look for Better Betta Care on Facebook. It is a page with information on betta care, and if you have any questions feel free to post them there!
Please copy and redistribute this sheet!

Sources:
*http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aquariumforum/archive/index.php/t-7293.html
**”Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis.” Wikipedia. 2011. Wikimedia Foundation, Inc.. 21 May 2011 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ichthyophthirius_multifiliis)
***”Velvet (fish disease).” Wikipedia. 2011. Wikimedia Foundation, Inc.. 21 May 2011 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velvet_(fish_disease))


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

let me know if there are any corrections to be made as well  Tanks!


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

bahamut285 said:


> I forget if I posted this here
> 
> http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=66595


great article!


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## PewPewPew (Nov 26, 2010)

Once you've finished, like, finished finished, I'd be happy to edit it as per my personal site and host it (edited) or the link there.


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

PewPewPew said:


> Once you've finished, like, finished finished, I'd be happy to edit it as per my personal site and host it (edited) or the link there.


I have a finished copy as a pdf, I would like to send it to you, please pm me an email address, I used a snippet of your disclaimer from your website as well on it, hoping this is okay I will send it to you and can reword if you have an issue with it! You can use or redo the caresheet as you wish


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## PewPewPew (Nov 26, 2010)

I have no problem with that, no worries. Disclaimers can be annoying and tricky sometimes.

I'll send you my email, sorry that I only just got the chance to read this >_<


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

*Let's get this out there!*

Okay people! It's time to get the betta fish care sheet out there
I can send a beautifully designed and formatted pdf of it or word doc to anyone who wants to host it, copy it, print it, distribute it etc etc! PM me if you want a copy and tell me what format. Let's get this info out there and help some betta fish!





Betta Fish CARE SHEET
This care sheet was written in hopes that it will help spread the word about proper betta fish care and improve their lives. This care sheet is free for sharing, there is no copyright on it, please feel free to copy it in any format you wish and distribute it in any manner you see fit-the goal is to help betta fish.

So you got a new betta fish? Betta fish are loyal loveable pets BUT there are many misconceptions concerning their proper care. Sometimes, even pet stores will give wrong information about them, (have you ever seen betta languishing in those tiny little cups in pet stores?) because they are ultimately concerned with profit.This information is intended to help betta fish and the people who love them! Let’s get started! 

First and foremost betta fish must always be housed separately. They instinctively will fight and kill each other if kept in the same tank. They will also fight with and try to kill other fish. This is why it is important to house them by themselves. There are a few exceptions to this however they are recommended only to the experienced fish keeper. First time betta owners may find it easier to start with the following basics:

Tank size: The idea that betta fish can be kept in small containers is largely a myth. While betta fish can survive for short periods of time in a small amount of water, it is not healthy for them to live in small containers because fish constantly secrete ammonia, a toxic chemical, through their gills and waste. Betta fish are unusual in the fact that they have a breathing labyrinth, which allows them to breathe similar to humans, as well as the ability to take in some oxygen through their gills. For this reason betta fish need to have access to the water’s surface to breathe.
A betta fish in a bowl or small tank will need frequent water changes as this ammonia will build up and create a toxic environment for the fish. Living in high levels of ammonia even for a short period of time can harm the betta, as the ammonia burns the betta’s body, internally and externally. This is why the small cups they are kept in pet store or sometimes the small bags are inevitably death traps for fish. The water is not changed daily and because of that the ammonia and bacteria builds up leaving the betta susceptible to infection and disease, eventually causing death. 
*Ammonia is invisible, so even though the water “looks clean” it can be deadly for your betta!* 
Generally the larger the tank the betta is in the better for the fish and even for the caregiver because less water changes and maintenance are needed. Larger tanks generally suit betta fish by giving them more space to explore and a better quality of life.
Water changes:
A 1 gallon tank would need a 100% water change every day. 
2 gallon – 100% water change every other day.
3 gallon-100% water change every 3-4 days
5 gallon –100% water change once a week with a partial change during the week
10 gallon – 100% change once a week
It is crucial to do a 100% water change on any tank that is uncycled because ammonia will build up in it overtime. When you do a partial water change the ammonia is only diluted, and still will build up. 
The single most important thing you can do for your betta’s health is to provide frequent water changes.

What if I have a filter in my tank? Even with a filter the water change schedule for anything less than 5 gallons should be followed. This is because in order for a filter to help your tank the tank itself has to be properly cycled. Cycling a tank is recommended for tanks larger than 3 gallons only and is a process that typically takes about 4 weeks. It is recommended to cycle your tank before you get your fish, unfortunately most people don’t know this when they purchase their betta. Information on proper tank cycling can be found online at: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838
There are many products sold in pet stores that claim they can instantly or quickly cycle your tank. Please realize that these claims may not be true and really do your research. In order to properly cycle your tank from scratch it will take about 4 weeks, an ammonia source and you will also need a fresh water master test kit. There is no easy way to short cut around proper cycling so be sure to do your research.

When doing water changes it is important to make sure the new water is the same temperature as the water your betta is currently in. Adding a betta to water that is colder or warmer than their current temperature can cause the betta to go into shock and possibly even die. A good investment is an in tank thermometer to measure the temperatures of both the old and new water. These can be bought inexpensively for a few dollars at many fish supply stores.

Acclimating your betta: you can use a plastic food grade cup and float it in your tank prior to transferring the betta into the new water. wait until the temperatures are the same before releasing your betta into its new tank.

Cleaning your tank: When doing 100% water changes you need only to clean your tank with hot water. Rinse of all the decorations in the tank. NEVER USE SOAP or any chemicals in your tank, as these are very dangerous to your fish!

It is crucial to add a water conditioner to the water you intend to use for your fish. Water conditioners remove chemicals in tap water that would other wise kill your betta fish. 
Betta prefer shallower water, the height of a ten gallon tanks and a twenty gallon long tank, is optimal while a twenty gallon tall tank is more of a challenge for the betta to swim to the top an get oxygen. A betta fish will often rest on the bottom of a tank but would prefer to rest on an ornament in the tank such as a live or silk plant because it is closer to the surface, which they have to access often to breathe.

Betta fish are jumpers! For this reason they need a breathable cover or lid on their tank, to prevent them from jumping out.
What if my betta fish jumps out of its tank?
Wet your hand with its tank water and gently place the betta back in its water. Even dried out betta can sometimes recover when placed back in water due to its breathing labyrinth. 
Speaking of décor, for betta the following is recommended: silk plants in lieu of plastic, as plastic plants can have sharp edges that can rip your betta’s fins.


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## sjones (Apr 28, 2010)

Décor: Betta fish love a good hiding spot, an inexpensive “cave” would be a terra cotta made in USA. It is recommended to look for ones made in the USA as ones made in other countries may have harmful ingredients in. If you chose a terra cotta pot for a hide be sure to plug the hole in the bottom of it as betta can become trapped in the opening and drown. You could lodge a piece of aquarium gravel in it or fill in hole with aquarium sealant. Another option is creatively breaking the pots and sanding them down (easily done with sandpaper) to make arches that your betta can swim through and hide in. You can also use a food grade unbroken cup in the tank as a hide.
A betta with hiding spots such as plants and caves will feel more comfortable in their environment and will likely be more outgoing and healthy.
Do not use metal or real shells in your tank.Gravel is not necessary in a betta tank and often it is easier to clean smaller tanks if there is no gravel at all. You can use a turkey baster to remove waste easily from the bottom of the tank to prevent build up ammonia in between water changes. If you do use gravel you can rinse it out in warm water to remove waste when cleaning your tank.

Temperature: Betta fish are tropical fish and do best at temps of 76-81 degrees. For this reason it is recommended to get a heater for your tank. 
There are several types of heaters available on the market. The best kind to get (and also the most expensive) would be an adjustable heater. These are especially useful because you can set the temperature to what ever you prefer and also be able to adjust it if the fish gets sick (see betta diseases). The second best option would be a preset heater. These are often sold with a preset of 78 degrees. They are not adjustable and sometimes they will not heat to the correct setting. Also these heaters have been reported to have more of a likelihood of malfunctioning and possibly cooking your fish. The third type of heater would be and internal heating pad type heater. These raise the temperature of the water a few degrees from what is would normally be at, given your room temperature. While these can be helpful, because they fluctuate and do not maintain a constant temperature they are considered not as good for a betta fish because temperature fluctuation puts stress on the betta fish.
It should also be pointed out that water temperature is the not the same as the room temperature the betta tank is in. Water temperature will be a few degrees colder than room temperature. 
While betta can live at lower temps it is often said that this is the “survive, not thrive” phenomena where the betta isn’t being kept in optimal care conditions.

Feeding betta:
Betta have small stomachs (only as big as their eye). Often betta are overfed and this can lead to health problems. It is recommended to feed your betta a high protein pellet that is specially formulated for bettas once or twice a day. When choosing a betta pellet look at the ingredients, the first ingredient should be a protein, not a filler. You can give your betta 2-3 pellets 2 times a day. Overfeeding your betta can cause constipation and Swim Bladder Disease (please see discussion of Swim Bladder Disease on Better Betta Care’s Facebook page).

Behavior and Behavioral Problems: When kept under the proper conditions betta fish can thrive. They will come to recognize the face of their owner and respond when they walk in the room. Because of this interaction the bond between bettas and their owners can become quite strong.
A betta that is healthy is an active colorful betta. They may flare at you or build a bubble nest (a nest of bubbles floating on top of the water). This shows they are happy and healthy. If a betta is withdrawn, losing color, turning grey, or hiding this is usually a sign that something is wrong. Sometimes betta take a while to settle into a new environment and may seem withdrawn when you first get them. This should improve over time. If it doesn’t it’s a sign of something being wrong. Poor water quality or disease may be the cause of unusual behavior. Start with a water change and go from there. Good water quality is the number one thing you can provide for your betta to make them happy and healthy.
A common behavioral problem with betta fish is tail biting. The betta will bite their own tail or fins when under stress. This can be disturbing for a betta owner. It is important to keep the water clean if tail biting occurs to prevent the exposed tissue from becoming infected. Aquarium salt may be added to their water as well but it is not recommended to use it long term (not over ten days). Learn about aquarium salt in the disease and treatment section.

Common diseases and treatment: Overfeeding your betta can cause constipation and Swim Bladder Disease. If your betta’s stomach becomes bloated and they are not passing waste stop feeding them. Fast you betta for up to three days. This may solve the issue. If your betta is prone to bloating it may help to soak their food first in treated (conditioned) water or even a little fresh garlic juice before feeding it to them (with tweezers). If your fish stays bloated put them in a small heated hospital tank and add Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) at 2 teaspoon per gallon to their water. This will often relax the duct and enable the betta to pass the waste. Be sure to do 100% water changes when using Epsom salt as you do not want to accidentally increase the dilution of salt and harm your fish.

Swim Bladder Disease (SBD): this can cause your betta to float on their side. Try fasting the betta and try the Epsom salt treatment and lower the level of the water in the tank if the betta has trouble swimming up for air. If it doesn’t clear up your betta may have chronic SBD. In that case you can set up a special low water level tank for your betta to make it easier for them to swim around, use silk plants for them to rest on and to give them support.

Fin rot: This is caused by poor water quality. Your betta may even already have fin rot from the pet store cup they were kept in. If you can put the betta in a small heated hospital tank. Do water changes everyday at 100%. You may add aquarium salt (pure sodium chloride) at 1 teaspoon per gallon to their water. You may increase this up to 3 tsp per gallon, work up slowly to the 3 teaspoons however, adding a teaspoon at a time every 12 hours for 36 hours, so that the betta does not go into shock. In extreme cases an antibiotic may need to be used. It is recommended not to use antibiotics unless your fish has been properly diagnosed however. 

Beware: Many betta “medicines: sold as cure-alls at the pet store can actually harm your betta, a widely sold medication called Melafix and Bettafix are controversial in the betta fish community as these medications allegedly may harm the betta fish’s breathing labyrinth.*
There are other common betta diseases: Ich(which may appear looking like there is salt sprinkled on your fish), Velvet (which may appear as a gold dust on your fish), Saprolegnia & Columnaris (which may appear as fuzzy grey or white patches on your fish). These are often caused by poor water conditions and may be treated with Aquarium salt and daily water changes. Look for a care sheets on betta disease coming soon on the Better Betta Care page on Facebook.

Euthanasia: Never flush or freeze dying betta fish. This is a long, slow painful death. If it gets to the point where your betta fish needs to be euthanized there are humane options you can provide. Please see: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-most-humane-way-to-euthanize-a-fish.htm. 
I would like to thank the members of:
www.bettafish.com & www.ultimatebettas.com for their help, feedback, advice and knowledge which contributed to the creation of this care sheet.
Look for Better Betta Care on Facebook:
www.facebook.com/pages/Better-Betta-Care/147267452012380
It is a page with information on betta care, and if you have any questions feel free to post them there!
Please copy and redistribute this sheet
DISCLAIMER: This caresheet is not intended to take the place of veterinary care. All information on disease, care, and habitats is used at the reader’s own risk. All cases are different and some methods of care and treatment may not work for every situation.


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## bahamut285 (Dec 10, 2010)

Just randomly watching betta vids on Youtube.

It's upsetting that there are so many people who are forcibly adamant that bettas are totally happy in a dinky bowl, and think that people are "crazy" that they put one fish in a 5G+ tank.

I understand that a lot of us spoil our fish rotten, but honestly, 2.5 Gallons is NOT that big. I've got my 3 gallon finally set up and moved HongBo there and it's a perfect size to fit on anybody's desk, unless your desk is like...a card table or something.

Horrifying trends I notice:
- The prisons that they sell are totally fine for bettas
- Bettas get "scared" in large tanks
- Plants apparently magically cycle the tank, regardless of size. Just add a plant and never change the water!
- Bettas don't need a heater because the store doesn't have them (EXCELLENT LOGIC, LOL)
- A bowl is cheap but a 2.5 gallon tank is suddenly spending a small fortune and people are unwilling
- Bettas like minimalistic tanks (i.e. nothing in it except gravel and maybe one measly plant)
- Rice paddies are apparently 1 Gallon of water 
- Don't put your hand into the tank, if you so much as touch your betta it will die instantly
- Apparently putting them with goldfish is really popular

The main thing I notice is that people honestly think that you MUST put them into small tanks or else it will be severely detrimental to their health >_>


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