# CYCLING: the two-sentence tutorial



## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

*Change half the water when either ammonia or nitrite approach 0.50ppm, or weekly, whichever comes first. Add Seachem Prime at 2-drops per gallon of tank size every day until cycled.*

That’s all you have to do. You can stop reading now. But there’s a lot of information packed into that sentence. So let’s go over it again – slowly.

*Change half the water...*

Removing water is most easily done with a siphon, also known as a gravel vacuum. Although a _clean_, new turkey baster will also work. Suck up as much old food, plant debris and feces as you can conveniently. Replace with water of the same temperature (within a few degrees either way). Add the Prime to the tank just before refilling. You don’t have to “age” the water except in special conditions. See _pH matching_ – below.

*when either ammonia or nitrite approach 0.50ppm...*

You need a water test kit to get these readings. Liquid tests are considered more consistently accurate than test strips, and they are cheaper per test. Most fish-keepers use the API master test kit (http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater...API+freshwater) which contains the tests you need. Test every day until you learn how fast ammonia builds up in your tank. (*ppm* is parts per million.)

You also need a filter to cycle a tank. Cycling bacteria need oxygen and water flow. A filter is the best and easiest way to provide both. Do not rinse or replace the filter during the cycle.

*or weekly, whichever comes first...*

A weekly 50% water change with vacuuming is part of recommended tank maintenance. If ammonia and nitrite stay below 0.50ppm the tank goes onto the weekly water-change schedule. 

*add Seachem Prime at 2-drops per gallon of tank size every day...*

This is IMPORTANT: Prime water conditioner (by Seachem) allows you to have a little ammonia or nitrite in the tank without endangering your fish. This protection goes away within 48 hours so it’s necessary to add more Prime. Seachem recommends 2 drop/gal of tank size with water changes. A further dose of 2-drops/gal every day keeps the protection fresh. 

Other water conditioners that detoxify ammonia include API AmmoLock and Kordon Amquel+. Water conditioners must clearly state they handle or deal with ammonia. Check with us before you buy.

*until cycled.*

The tank is cycled when ammonia reads 0.0ppm, nitrite reads 0.0ppm and nitrate increases slightly between water changes. Afterwards, you only have to add Prime during weekly water changes.

*Maintenance*

A weekly 50% water change is a good habit to get into. While you’re at it, vacuum the substrate to remove solid waste, rotting food, etc. A weekly partial water change also dilutes nitrate, removes dissolved waste and replaces minerals used up by your fish and plants. Every few weeks, rinse the filter media in the water removed from the tank during the water change -- not in untreated tapwater.

*Why cycle?*

Fish and other aquatic animals produce ammonia as a by-product of living. Rotting food, plant debris, feces and other organics also produce ammonia. Ammonia is harmful or deadly if allowed to build-up in the tank. Cycling bacteria remove ammonia, providing the healthiest, safest water conditions for your fish. Creating a “nitrogen cycle” in the tank is how you build bacteria colonies big enough to “eat” all the ammonia.

The nitrogen cycle can take anywhere from two weeks to two months to complete.
*
Fish-in? Fishless?*

The above instructions are for a “fish-in” cycle which uses the ammonia produced by your fish to feed the cycling bacteria and grow the bacteria colonies. Since Betta produce so little ammonia (low-bioload) smaller colonies are enough. You need just enough bacteria to eat all the ammonia. In fact, that’s what get with fish-in cycling – just the right amount of bacteria. 

“Fishless” cycling means that _you_ provide the ammonia to feed the growing colonies. You can raise very large bacteria colonies using this method. If you’re planning to stock large fish or many fish at once this may be the way to go.

*Tank size*

Any size tank from 2-gallons on up can be cycled using this method. The smaller 2- and 3- gallon tanks do require extra care and close monitoring; ammonia can build up pretty fast sometimes. Test daily and always be ready to do a 50% water change with Prime if ammonia rises above 0.50ppm.

*Bacteria*

Two types of bacteria are involved in the “nitrogen cycle.” One kind (Nitrosomonas) oxidizes harmful ammonia and turns it into nitrite. The other (Nitrospira) oxidizes less-harmful nitrite and turns it into nitrate. After a tank is cycled the weekly water change removes nitrate.

Filter media (sponges, cartridges, pads) and substrate that contain live cycling bacteria can also be used to “seed” the cycle and make it faster. Placed in the filter or in the filter flow, these bacteria quickly grow throughout the tank. Bacteria stick to surfaces; not much lives in the water. Be careful to use only seeded media from a clean, healthy tank. Getting seeded media from a pet store can be risky.

Cycling bacteria is available in bottles from your local pet store. Tetra SafeStart is often used, although there are a few other products containing the bacteria listed above.
*
pH matching*

Betta can tolerate a wide range of pH – from below 7.0 pH to above 8.0 pH – as long as it does not change quickly. If your tapwater pH matches your tank pH within + 0.3 points a 50% water change is no problem. If the pH difference is outside of that range, letting the refill water sit and "age" for 24-hours should bring it into range. Or you can do smaller water changes more often.
Questions and comments are encouraged.
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## jato (Jan 12, 2015)

Very informative. Thanks!


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## MameJenny (Jun 11, 2012)

Great post. The helpfulness of Prime really can't be stressed enough. I recently had an ammonia/nitrite spike in one of my tanks that got up to 2 ppm of nitrite and 2 ppm of ammonia. I was quadruple-dosing Prime daily at the time, and nobody suffered any negative effects. 

People act like cycling is so complicated...but as far as a fish keeper needs to be concerned, it really isn't. It happens on its own, even, without much assistance. It might take a while, but as long as you have a filter - and keep an eye on your ammonia/nitrite levels if you have fish - it'll happen.


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## logisticsguy (Sep 7, 2012)

Excellent post Hallyx!! Ammonia is often the root of all evil with betta because we use smallish tanks. Ammonia or nitrite exposure can lead to many health problems and weaken the fish immune system to a point where secondary infections can easily get a foothold.


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## MikeG14 (May 31, 2014)

Amazing job Hal!

Hey mods, wouldn't this make a great sticky?


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## RussellTheShihTzu (Mar 19, 2013)

When I cycle a tank I test daily and feel 25% water changes when Ammonia or Nitrites reach .25ppm is better for the fish. While I use it, this lower number allows for a safe fish-in cycle if you don't have access to Prime.

Betta are so hardy that 50% maintenance water changes are acceptable. But if your tank is cycled and your Betta has tank mates, especially inverts or more sensitive aquatic species, smaller maintenance water changes of 15%-25% are safer. Betta can handle a change in parameters that will kill shrimp. That's why it's important to wait until a tank is cycled before adding tank mates for your Betta friend.


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## RussellTheShihTzu (Mar 19, 2013)

Great work, Hal.

I do need to add a couple of things:

For those you who don't have access to Prime or your parents won't agree to more $$, know that you can safely do a fish-in cycle if you change 25% of the water when Ammonia or Nitrites approach .25ppm. Even though I use Prime that's the ratio I prefer although it does require more frequent water changes.

For maintenance, if your Betta has shrimp or more sensitive fish species as tank mates, a 25% water change is preferable to 50%. Many species can't survive the parameter shifts from 50% water changes that wouldn't faze a hardy Betta.


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## Polkadot (Feb 10, 2013)

Great post Hallyx!


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## Polkadot (Feb 10, 2013)

RussellTheShihTzu said:


> When I cycle a tank I test daily and feel 25% water changes when Ammonia or Nitrites reach .25ppm is better for the fish.


Same here.I'm a natural worry wart anyway so I do a wc if Ammonia or Nitrite ever hit 0.25.

Terrific post Hallyx & thanks! :-D Your cycling advice has helped me a lot in the past.And yes I definitely agree that Prime is you & your Bettas best friend if doing a fish in cycle.

Agreed too that Hallyx's post should be a sticky.


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## Greenapp1es (Dec 4, 2014)

+1 - I agree that it should be a sticky. I also use the .25 /25% method - but when instructing others I cover both possibilities.


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## copperfish (Jan 21, 2014)

Thank you Hallyx! So much easier to come read here and find out what I'm learning by trying.

Question, what about changes of water through the week. Are you saying just do 50% once week, and no other changing water. I usually change less amount more frequently. But good to know not to be shy with 50%


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## Greenapp1es (Dec 4, 2014)

copperfish said:


> Thank you Hallyx! So much easier to come read here and find out what I'm learning by trying.
> 
> Question, what about changes of water through the week. Are you saying just do 50% once week, and no other changing water. I usually change less amount more frequently. But good to know not to be shy with 50%


With cycling the tank, it is HIGHLY advised that you have a test kit and are testing your water. By Hallyx's method, you would need to be doing a 50% change when ammonia or nitrites reach .5ppm. This *could* happen about once per week in a 5gallon, but will probably happen more often.


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## copperfish (Jan 21, 2014)

I have strips, and at less than .5ppm when just checking now. I think the amount I change adds up to 50% over the week. Just have been doing smaller amounts more frequently. Basically good to know to watch that nitrite level at .5ppm and if reaches that then do 50%. If I understand correctly.


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## Greenapp1es (Dec 4, 2014)

copperfish said:


> I have strips, and at less than .5ppm when just checking now. I think the amount I change adds up to 50% over the week. Just have been doing smaller amounts more frequently. Basically good to know to watch that nitrite level at .5ppm and if reaches that then do 50%. If I understand correctly.


Yup! When cycling look for EITHER the ammonia\nitrite levels to reach .25ppm OR the ammonia\nitrite levels to reach .5ppm. You will then do a 25% water change OR a 50% water change, respectively.

Said another way, if you're on the 25% method, change 25% when ammonia or nitrites reach .25ppm (or 50% after a week, whichever is sooner)

Or if you're on the 50% method, change 50% when ammonia or nitrites reach .5ppm (or 50% after a week, whichever is sooner).


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## copperfish (Jan 21, 2014)

Thanks! Helps me plan for going on a much needed week vacation


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## Greenapp1es (Dec 4, 2014)

Just remember - when in the cycling process you still need to dose prime daily and test daily. You don't know when the ammonia\nitrates are going to spike....and having just gone through a HUGE spike myself I can tell you that it can spike high and fast.l


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Thank you, Greenapp1es for that good explanation in post #14. A 25%[email protected]0.25ppm is the equivalent of 50%[email protected] Either way will work well and is safe. The core idea is to determine your water change schedule by reading your water conditions. Much safer and faster than times-per-week.

I only recommend the 50%@0.50ppm because it seems easier and leads into the recommended 50% weekly change.

The importance of dosing Prime cannot be overstated -- using either method.


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## Warhawk (Feb 23, 2014)

Great post and well written. Thanks for taking the time to write up the info.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Thank you, Warhawk. And thanks for bumping the thread.


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## Greenapp1es (Dec 4, 2014)

I actually think I did see another copy of this thread stickied - it's In Betta Fish Care.


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## Fawneh1359 (Sep 27, 2014)

"Every few weeks, rinse the filter media in the water removed from the tank during the water change -- not in untreated tapwater."

How often do you replace cartridge, if ever? Does it restart the cycle when you do? It says to change it monthly.

I have a 3.5 I'm trying to cycle. If it works, I will move onto my 10.
I will also have to learn how to do fishless for my new 20g when it arrives.

In my 3.5, the ammonia reaches .5 every two days. Every two days I add a few drops of Prime and a change a quarter gallon of water. It immediately goes down.

So, from what I see, I should take out the gravel and wash (there is a lot of stuff in there, since I don't have a vacuums for such a small tank). Put it back in (just to help the ammonia, besides, I have too much gravel in there and I've wanted to take some away for a while now).

Then, begin by doing a 50% water change. Monitor until it is .5 again. Once it is, do another similar change. Put in 7 drops of Prime daily to encourage bacteria and help ammonia. Continue testing nitrate and nitrite. Once some is formed, continue until there is no nitrates, just ammonia (?) and nitrites?


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## kman (Dec 10, 2013)

^^ If you're talking about the activate carbon cartridge, there's really no reason to change it until it starts falling apart. Then chuck it. Or chuck it now.

Really unnecessary in a modern cycled tank, outside of certain specialty situations.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Fawneh, please read the tutorial again. You have several misunderstandings.

-- The filter cartridge is full of cycling bacteria. Do not change it until it's falling apart. Use the old cartridge in with your new cartridge as a way of "seeding" the new cartridge with bacteria. This avoids having to restart the cycle. Do this with your 20g, too.

-- Ammonia rising to 0.50ppm every two days indicates there is something causing too much ammonia: plants or other organics rotting, fish waste and food building up and rotting, over-feeding. Adding Prime only every other day allows some free ammonia to go untreated. 2-drops/gal daily is better protection. I'm surprised you see a significant reduction in ammonia with only a 10% water change. Take your readings several hours after adding Prime. See if it's different.

-- Prime does not help the cycling bacteria. Its purpose is to detoxify any ammonia in the tank so that your fish aren't exposed to the free ammonia.

-- Don't worry about nitrate. Test for ammonia and nitrite. These should eventually peak and then decline, leaving only nitrate. Weekly 50% water changes will control nitrate.


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## catsie (May 7, 2015)

just to clarify and make sure I have the right information.. 
I can cycle a 2.5 gallon tank with a betta (and only a betta) in it. (It is safe to use with fish in the tank?)
-use two drops per gallon of seachem prime to lower the ammonia, 
-keep up with 50% weekly water changes while testing the water. 
-If the water parameters have a .50ppm, do a 50% water change regardless of the weekly schedule. (vaccuming, and replacing water )
-All of the above until doing a daily water test and water has zero ammonia
-Once this happens, Tank is cycled.. and seachem prime should be added once a week during weekly maintenence of 50% water change + gravel vacuuming.

oh, and the filter cartridge should be kept through this entire process until it barely together. 

:x Please correct me if i am wrong.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

That's about it. You have it right.

Don't be surprised if you still read ammonia while using Prime. Prime does not remove or lower ammonia, it only detoxifies it to make it safe for your fish. It's still in there feeding your cycle. When the cycle removes the ammonia and nitrite, it's really gone.


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## catsie (May 7, 2015)

Hallyx said:


> That's about it. You have it right.
> 
> Don't be surprised if you still read ammonia while using Prime. Prime does not remove or lower ammonia, it only detoxifies it to make it safe for your fish. It's still in there feeding your cycle. When the cycle removes the ammonia and nitrite, it's really gone.


Thank you for clarifying. This is an awesome post. 
I found a place that sells seachem products. it was a bit of a drive but.. none the less. Got my hands on a 100ml prime. The last time I got my water tested a few days ago. the ammonia levels were present but not harmful, Did a 20% water change and added a few drops of it just to try to help my sick fish out.. Im not sure if adding seachem to a tank with a sick fish is a bad idea... but.. I just wanted to make sure his water was clean and that he wasnt dealing with ammonia issues..


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## svton25 (Jun 17, 2015)

Thanks for posting this... this is starting to be what I'm leaning towards but with so much information available online and what I've been suggested locally I've been reluctant to get started. (1st ever fish/aquarium ever) Many things I read make me feel like a cruel monster for even considering anything but one of the fish-less methods.

I wanted to see what one of the main LFS had to say but I have some serious reservations... 

For a 10 gallon planted I was recommended a HOB filter, heater of course, use some small hardy fish (danios, tetras, cory's etc... was suprised how many different fish were suggested as cycle starters and to possibly remain tankmates) to start the cycle. The part that really got me was just to let it run it's course. NO water changes, NO checking water parameters. Just top off with treated water, any that has evaporated. After a few weeks bring them a sample of my water. Worry about plants after it's cycled. Add Betta after it's cycled. Change filter cartridge each month. When I asked if I would be messing with the cycle too much by doing this I was told no and that there is enough BB throughout the rest of the tank, substrate, etc. to be fine. This all kind of floored me. 

Since then I've been leaning toward fishless. Although I feel like this method here will not be too harmful to a Betta with staying on top of the water changes and parameters. 

My other confusion is with starting with plants before cycling or waiting until after. I guess with one fish and plants the cycle may just take a long time to complete? Would be only low-light using the typical recommended easy plants using gravel substrate. 

In the end I really want to end up with a single male Betta with a couple ghost shrimp and a couple cory's. Simple plants and many hiding spots. If the Betta is not good with the others it will get it's own smaller tank and we'll try another and see how it does in a tiny community. 

Sorry if this is out of place in this thread. I feel like if I had started a new thread I would likely have been given a link to this thread and the other couple around the site as well. Maybe a journal starting from absolute zero aside from the nice piece of driftwood I came across would be beneficial.


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## RussellTheShihTzu (Mar 19, 2013)

Keep in mind Cories are shoaling fish and as such need a minimum of six but 10+ is better. In a 10 the only Cories that would work are Pygmy or Habrosus.

A new thread might have been a better option as yours is on the last page. But posting here is perfectly acceptable.

Welcome to the Forum! :wave:


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Good questions. There are several tacit and direct questions in this post that I'd like to answer in public, as it were, so that more members might benefit from the answers. Perhaps Russell would be kind enough to move this into the more active, unstickied part of this section. 

I'm sure you won't mind, Svton. Welcome to the forum.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Oh boy. I'm really confused now. I thought this version of the tutorial was gone and forgotten, and that only the sticky remained. If Russell would be so kind as to remove this post and the one above it, I will respond to the OP below.

It sure would be nice to collate these posts selectively, making just one instance of the tutorial instead of two (or three).


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

The advice given at your LFS is old-fashioned and out of date. Over the past 30-years, with the introduction of Ammonia-detoxifying conditioners and live nitrifying bacteria in a bottle, achieving the nitrogen cycle has undergone something of a revolution. No longer is it necessary to use sacrificial, "hardy" fish to produce Ammonia to feed the cycling bacteria. In fact modern morality, which places a higher value on an animal’s health and safety, inveighs against this old-fashioned practice. Prime, or other Ammonia-locking conditioners protect the fish against the effects of Ammonia, while still allowing some Ammonia to be present to feed the bacteria. 

Even with that protection, it’s a good idea not to let Ammonia build-up too much. Most conditioners lose their protective properties after a day or two, plus the fish adds more Ammonia daily. The consensus maximum is around 0.50ppm, although Prime and other products can detoxify much more.

Fishless cycling is recommended for those hobbyists who wish to stock a community tank with many fish at once, or with large fish. This produces a lot of Ammonia, called a ‘high bio-load.’ A fishless cycle can gain the capacity to remove more than 4.0ppm of Ammonia every 24-hours. A healthy, active, well-fed Betta puts out, at most, 0.50ppm each day. 

Because the Ammonia-oxidizing capability is less, and because of its simplicity, most keepers use the fish-in method to cycle a small Betta tank, using the Betta as the Ammonia source. With Prime, it’s as safe as any other method.

The usual easy, beginner plants don’t do a whole lot for water quality. Healthy, ‘fast-growing’ plants actually eat Ammonia faster than cycling bacteria. In fact, with enough of those kinds of plants, there’s little Ammonia left for the bacteria. Conversely, fewer plants means more Ammonia for the bacteria to cycle. It’s a spectrum: >Plants ------|----->Bacteria

There is a learning curve to plant care. If you are comfortable with the technique, have the right lighting, substrate and fertilizer, by all means plant away. Your fish will love it. You can install plants any time.

Your plan for a school of (pygmy) Cory and a Betta is a good idea. Lots of keepers build this kind of community. Thanks for the opportunity for me to expand on my tutorial. 

Welcome to the forum.


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## svton25 (Jun 17, 2015)

Thanks for re-visiting and futher details. =) I was a little thrown off when I was looking for my post again initially. 

I'm going to (try) start gathering my items and get going !! Trying to decide what to get for a setup is a little overwhelming. I'll likely be hitting Russell up for that code with True Aqua here soon for a few things. I really wish some of the tanks on their site were still available because they look great ! :-(

I can get a basic new 10 gallon for $10 at another LFS. I have a feeling I'll be ending up with a couple tanks here in the not so distant future. The cubes look amazing too. 

Plant wise I think I'll start off with those easier plants that don't really effect much while cycling. If those go well I'll maybe try others that will help more with ammonia after the cycle is good to go. Figure this will help as I add those few extra tankmates down the road. 

Thanks again for your both of your responses.


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## 123playcard (Jul 25, 2015)

So I am doing a fishless cycle for my new 4 gallon tank

When starting I brought a large sponge filter from my 20 gallon tank and move it to this tank plus some horn wort about 6-7 stems

Every other day I put some fish food, flake, betta pellets and dried worms

Today is the 8th day. My API test kit just arrives
So after I do the test, the ammonia is close to 0, the nitrite is 0 and the nitrate is about 10

*So does that mean the tank is cycled ? Do I have to change the water now? If yes, how much
*

My plan for the tank is to hold about 10 cherry shrimps with some addition java moss and hornwort

Thank you


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## Strawberrys mom (Jan 31, 2016)

I am a new aquarium owner. I had my betta in a 2 gallon unfiltered tank...but just purchased a 5 gallon one with filter and a 50 watt heater. I connected everything and put some of the bettas water in and made sure temp. was the same. I added the betta decor from the old tank as well with conitioner. I then transferred Blueberry. He seemed ok..the first day..but seemed very distressed today, the second day. I was nervous so returned him to a small tank until I am sure I am doing everything correctly. I left the water and everything in the large tank. What do I need to do now to appropriately prepare the large tank. Should I empty out all the water and start to cycle. Please help!!!! -thanks


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

It's usually best to start with clean water. (Used water does not help the cycle.) Fill with water at 80*. Take readings for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. That's your baseline reading. Add 2-drops/gal Prime water conditioner (by Seachem).

Match the tank temperatures, then put in the Betta. That easy. Cover the tank to make it dark. Do not feed.

Next day: take readings for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. See if he'll eat.

Read the tutorial again and see if it answers any questions. Ask any questions you may have by starting a new thread. That way we can all benefit from the discussion.


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## Strawberrys mom (Jan 31, 2016)

Thank you. Im going to clean the tank and start the filter and heater and put in the Prime as you suggest. Ill let the tank run and take readings in the am. If everything is ok...then I know the tank is ok. Blueberry is now in a QT because his little fins were burned from ammonia. I do not know what happened because I am very careful with him. Anyway...I want to wait a bit before I move him again. Now he wont eat and very lethargic. I wonder if his fins got frayed because of the 50 watt filter in the 5 gallon tank. He was swimming near the filter. How can I ensure he doesnt get further hurt? thanx


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

You have a 50W heater. That won't hurt the fish. What brand and kind of filter are you running?

It's not likely his fins were burned by ammonia. If his gills are bright red, ammonia is suspected. But if you're keeping ammonia low by water changes and Prime. I'm sure that's not the problem. 

These are the types of questions that could benefit many people if asked in their own thread.


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## Strawberrys mom (Jan 31, 2016)

His fins arent red....just frayed eith black edges.
Also Im new yo the site. How do I start a new thread?

thanks for your help&#55357;&#56842;


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Sorry, Mom. I didn't know this floating version of the tutorial was still around. I though I was answering you on the "sticky" version of this thread. I don't know how you came by this one. I'll get with the moderators and fix this.

Just above the thread list (menu), near the top of the page, is a _New Thread_ button. 

*http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/betta-fish-bowls-habitats-accessories/http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/betta-fish-bowls-habitats-accessories/

*That's where the thread list is for this section*.
*


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## Mr. B (Nov 6, 2020)

love it!


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