# 10 Gallon stocking???



## Creativemind243 (Dec 13, 2014)

So I'm going to be getting a 10 gallon tank soon, and I was wondering what sorts of fish or other things I can put in to live with my Betta fish, Frederick?? Thanks a bunch! :-D


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## Aqua Aurora (Oct 4, 2013)

*Before You look at fish*
First of all you need to keep a back up plan (a tank to move the betta to with heater and filter) in case he is not a social betta.. some will chase and even kill other fish.. they don't like to share their tanks. And occasionally the other fish won't play nice with the betta and will shred their fins.

Second, in case you were iffy about it.. you MUST have a filter, though bettas can survive unfiltered tanks (uncomfortably) most other fish cannot. I'd recommend a Aquaclear20 HOB, also pick up some canister filter foam/sponge media and cut a piece to fit like a thick sock over the intake (so the slits are covered) and another to place on the outflow to make the current more gentle. This will make the HOB betta safe. However you do not have to use that brand of HOB, or that style of filter (there are several other options including in tank filter, canister filter, and sponge filters)

I'd also strongly recommend doing a fish-less cycle with pure ammonia (best way to control ammonia). You can read abut fish-less cycling [here], and sue their converter and calculator for tank volume and dosing. If you ahve an Ace Hardware store in feasable distance from you go get [this] (ignore price, its for a x15, you only need 1) its a safe ammonia that has no additives (additives like scents, dies, and other cleaners in the ammonia can kill beneficial bacteria, fish, or plants). I've used the site and that bottle to cycle many tanks.
Why fishless cycling? Because several of the 10g fish options do no tolerate ammonia or nitrite so you cannot do a fish-in cycle. Completing a fishless cycle lets you build up a strong bacteria colony so you can do full tank stocking (betta + whatever the final other fish list is) at once without an ammonia spike.

*Onto some fish options!*
Neon tetra- a common one used with betta.. they absolutely MUST be in a minimum group of 6 (more is better) as they are a schooling fish. If you have less than 6 the dominant one will harass the others, or possibly nip the betta (or all may harass the betta out of stress). Having 6 gives you the magic number to help spread aggression out so its not too stressful on any one fish. These tetra like cooler waters, if you get them keep tank tamp around 77-78F. Also make sure to have some decor for line of sight beak up, some bettas are less aggressive with tank mates if they don't see them _constantly_. Tetra are fairly easy to feed, they'll eat frozen foods, small flakes, and small pellets.

Dwarf cory or Pygmy cory- (do NOT get any other cory species in a 10g, all others need 20-55g tanks) are another option, again MINIMUM group of 6 (you can get up to 10 pygmy in a 10g tank comfortably), for these fish are shoalers and get stressed if in smaller numbers. If you get cory do not use gravel as your substrate, instead get a sand! Why? Cory have small barbels on their snouts and use them to sift through the top of the substrate to scavenge food. In a tank with gravel or other rough substrates (like lava rock) their barbels will get ripped off and their snouts become raw, leaving them prone to infection which can lead to death. Easiest way to avoid this is the use of sand which is what they have in the wild. If you want to save $ on sand find a Tractor Supply Co. and get Black Diamond blasting abrasive (I know you think it means it will be rough right? under water its actually gentle and safe- very commonly used by people with cory and other burrowing fish) 20/40 grit or -60 grit works well and its super cheap! 50lb bag is only $8!! I use this stuff in all my tanks! Like all sands, it needs rinsed before use. Cory also do not tolerate warm water so again do not raise temp beyond 77-78F, they're likely to die if you keep water any warmer (may take days or weeks.. but it messed them up). Cory will eat just abut any fish food they find: frozen, flake, pellet, they'll also eat algae wafers (I use Hikari brand), and sometimes veggies but they prefer the meatier stuff.

Some harder to find options: 
Danio Tinwini aka gold ring danio. Do NOT get the traditionally sold zebra or leopard danio -these breeds are very fast/darty and fin nippy, they are not a good match for a betta. However tinwini is a smaller calmer member of the danio family that if you can find is a pretty choice. I've been trying to get a hold of some but only can find them online right now (ebay). Like tetra minimum group of 6, but you can get more as they stay small. Flake micro pellets, and frozen foods for them. They'd prefer a more densely planted (or heavily decorate) tank with a lot of hiding places or they will get shy and hide.

Microrasbora species- there are a few to try but they are very sensitive and often skittish fish each with different needs. Group of 6 minimum and densely planted/decorated tanks are needed for them to be comfortable. Be mindful though-some of these are very colorful.. and it seems some bettas don't like other colorful fish with them and may attack.


*Some non-fish options*
There are more than just fish you can try! All the options below run the risk of the betta being mean to but they will leave the fish alone.
Shrimp- Not recommended unless you keep live plants and have the tank cycled and 'aged' (running) for many months before adding. Shrimp constantly forage and eat micro organisms which take a while to grow in your tank. Mosses are a great easy starter low light (and low demand) live plant that will grow food on them for shrimp. Also if you get shrimp you need to be mindful of your filter. Sponge filters do not need any adaptation but everything else will need a foam/sponge cover over the intake to prevent small or baby shrimp (if you're lucky enough to have them breed) from getting sucked into the filter. I'd recommend easy starter shrimp such as ghost shrimp (larger and fairly cheep) or the more colorful cherry shrimp (tiny and a bit more expensive and red-females will be bright red, males more dappled red to clear). Ghost shrimp seem to tolerate the 80F tanks bettas like, but for cherry shrimp I'd recommend the 77-78F mark again. A densely planted tank will increase survival rate for shrimp.. some betta will see them as food and hunt them down and eat them, others could care less (my Aristocoles shares his tank with a decent sized ghost shrimp). I'd recommend getting some shrimp food or occasionally putting in a blanches veggie for shrimp to supplement their diet). They are small so do not put too much food in.

Snail- Nerite would be the one I'd recommend but you can also look at apple or mystery snails. I've only kept nerite and they're fairly tolerant to the 80F tank. They eat algae but if you get too many or add them before enough algae grow in the tank they can starve. Blanched veggies or algae wafers given as an occasional supplement is a good idea. I've kept a nerite snail with my delta Alastor without issue, but some members here have told of their bettas eat the eyes and antenna of their snails, or even grabbing the snail and smashing it against the tank until it died. I don't really know anything about apply or mystery snails but I will say-ALL snails poop ALOT don't skip on water changes, you need to get all the crap out. 

AFD- African dwarf frogs.. I don't know much about these but hear that you should keep more than one as "they get lonely".. I'm sure someone else can give more info on them.


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## SabastiansMom (Jul 25, 2014)

ADFs: I have two in with my Betta, Nick and I can tell you he doesn't give one iota about them. They are pretty cool to have and I'm thinking of getting two more. Mine are Bonnie and Clyde.


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