# Is this Velvet or just his colors?



## Lindo (Dec 31, 2012)




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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

It looks like his colors to me but he's a little bloated maybe and rather clamped.. If you could fill this out I would like to make sure we're not missing anything: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=49233


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## Grv97 (Dec 30, 2012)

i think thats just his colors. Velvet comes from deer antlers, so its not that. and the head of the betta doesnt have large scales like the rest of the body so it looks soft. and since its red, i guess it looks like velvet! he has very pretty colors!! whatd you name him?!


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## Laki (Aug 24, 2011)

Velvet comes from deer antlers, what? No, it's a parasite called Oödinium which strikes in any tank. 

However, to the OP, fill out the sticky provided by Callistra and we will see. Some betta's grey under their chins when they get old or very sick (not velvet). 

Velvet is seen by shining a light on the fish, the velvet will appear as gold dust almost. But let's not treat it as such quite yet.

I found this article helpful when I thought Ludendorff had velvet. http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/disease/p/velvet.htm


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## Lindo (Dec 31, 2012)

Housing 
What size is your tank? - 1/2 Gallon (Bought him a 1.5 gallon last night)
What temperature is your tank? - 84-86 (Mini Heater too strong for 1/2 gallon)
Does your tank have a filter? - No
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration? - No
Is your tank heated? - Yes
What tank mates does your betta fish live with? - None

Food
What type of food do you feed your betta fish? - TetraBetta
How often do you feed your betta fish? - Once a day

Maintenance 
How often do you perform a water change? - Once a week
What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change? - 100%
What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change? - Betta Safe or Stress Coat

Water Parameters:
Have you tested your water? If so, what are the following parameters? - Never Tested

Ammonia: n/a
Nitrite: n/a
Nitrate: n/a
pH: n/a
Hardness: n/a
Alkalinity: n/a

Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed? - Not really
How has your betta fish's behavior changed? - Not as active since adding heater
When did you start noticing the symptoms? - Few days ago
Have you started treating your fish? If so, how? - No
Does your fish have any history of being ill? - No
How old is your fish (approximately)? - Unknown (I have had him for a little over a year)


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

He's definitely too hot.. how did you acclimate him to that water? Did you just plot the heater in and turn it on? That would have been very hard on him, and would definietly account for his behavior.

2 gallons is really minimum to keep bettas healthy long term, and then you can buy a good 25w adjustable heater. As you've learned, it's really hard to keep anything less evenly heated. Those small unadjustable heaters that are supposed to automatically turn off at a certain temp tend to fail, over heat, and/or cause lots of swings. You should also give them a test run for 24 hours in a same sized container without your fish to make sure they will hold temp and work properly. Once you have figured out they will you need to acclimate your boy slowly to the warmer water. Since these are non adjustable and you have no control about how fast the water heats up you'll have to cup him (in like a fresh plastic solo cup) and float him in the warmer water for about an hr to acclimate. It's also important to always use heaters along with an in tank thermometer like these: http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-11200-Marina-Floating-Thermometer/dp/B0002AQITA

The half gallon would also have required alternating 50% and 100% daily water changes or by the end of the week you would have seen very high ammonia.

At this point is he in the 1.5g yet? I would get a 2.5g+ with a good adjustable heater, but if you can't afford that I would get the 1.5g set up at a stable temp between 78-80 degrees and acclimate him slowly to fresh new appropriately adjusted water. After that along with good water changes of 3x weekly 50% 50% 100% or at minimum 2 at 50% 100%, he should perk up.

This is how you can do those large water changes without shocking him:



> To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.


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## Laki (Aug 24, 2011)

I wouldn't say velvet then if you're changing the water once a week. My mom's fish was in a 1g slowly evaporating without water change fr close to 3 weeks and it's beard is grey, no velvet. 

Is he a petshop betta? Maybe he is just getting on in age? The 1.5 will be fine for now- I mean, if it is within your means to exchange it then do it but the 1.5 is fine.


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

Laki your mom's betta's beard is gray because it's stressed from all the ammonia build up. Gray beard is old betta or stressed betta, meaning old like 3-4+ not old like 1-2. That's very young for a betta. Bettas kept in really ideal conditions can live 5-6+ years easily. I've known them to live pretty consistently 7-9 under the right conditions, depending on their genetics.

1.5g works with frequent water changes, but even then they will be subjected to smaller levels of ammonia and it's hard to keep it heated evenly without a dedicated fish room. It's just a lot harder to keep them healthy that way. Just please don't advocate changing a one gallon bowl like that. That's extremely poor habit and bettas will definitely not live full lives in conditions like that.


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## Lindo (Dec 31, 2012)

Does mine have a "grey beard"? I am color blind and I have trouble telling colors apart.

I rescued him from Wal-Mart, the water in his cup was so dirty I couldnt even tell what color he was! 

I was not even shopping for a Betta, I was just walking down that aisle and I saw how bad his cup looked, and I said to my wife we are buying him NOW! lol

I have had him for a little over a year. And he has been doing good with the 1/2 gallon with no heater.

BUT, after reading stuff on this message board, I went and bought him a Marina Betta Mini Heater, but it is overheating his little 1/2 gallon. So I went and got him a Tetra 1.5 gallon LED Cube Aquarium.


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

No, personally I don't see a gray beard on your betta. Just the clamped look, which is probably from the temp swings. Little fin rot maybe but, he'll be fine with some consistently clean warm water at an appropriate temp


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## Lindo (Dec 31, 2012)

He is in his new home!


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

He's already a lot less clamped I see  I do see a little beard now maybe, but you just moved him so I wouldn't worry too much about it. He's had a lot of changes recently. 

However, I have noticed your betta's mouth never seems to close.. is it always open like that? That's different.. I would almost say it looks a little swollen.. what does someone else think?

I would try to get him a couple silk plants and a little place to hide like a cave or some kind of decor is smooth and wouldn't snag his fins. Even a ceramic mug (I wouldn't use plastic or metal) placed on its side would work (make sure it's never touched chems or soap or stained with coffee). Betta's like to feel protected and not exposed and that can also lead to stress. Leaving the bottom bare is fine, imho. It makes it easier to suck the poop off the bottom as you see it. Also make sure there are holes in that top for fresh air to get in.. I can't tell by the pics but it looks like the top may be fully covered.


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## Lindo (Dec 31, 2012)

callistra said:


> He's already a lot less clamped I see  I do see a little beard now maybe, but you just moved him so I wouldn't worry too much about it. He's had a lot of changes recently.
> 
> However, I have noticed your betta's mouth never seems to close.. is it always open like that? That's different.. I would almost say it looks a little swollen.. what does someone else think?
> 
> I would try to get him a couple silk plants and a little place to hide like a cave or some kind of decor is smooth and wouldn't snag his fins. Even a ceramic mug (I wouldn't use plastic or metal) placed on its side would work (make sure it's never touched chems or soap or stained with coffee). Betta's like to feel protected and not exposed and that can also lead to stress. Leaving the bottom bare is fine, imho. It makes it easier to suck the poop off the bottom as you see it. Also make sure there are holes in that top for fresh air to get in.. I can't tell by the pics but it looks like the top may be fully covered.


I am going to buy him some plants when I get more money (got laid off).

I had to borrow money from my dad for his new tank.

Also, there is a square hole in the back of the lid that is open for the filter (not using it). 

Should I put something over the hole? I dont want anything to get in the tank, or him to jump out.

Or should I just leave it open?


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

Sorry you got laid off 

Leave it open. He needs a little space for air to get in.. that sounds good.


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## crowntaillove3 (Dec 26, 2012)

Sorry to hear that you got laid off! I would suggest putting something over the hole. Just some craft mesh would do. My Spikefin is in a bowl that was originally a centerpiece! I put the divider that came with Fireheart's tank over it, and it works fine.


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## crowntaillove3 (Dec 26, 2012)

After looking at it again, it is fine. Something that small won't make much of a difference, except letting air get in.


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## Lindo (Dec 31, 2012)

Also, does his mouth look swollen?


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

It does look swollen to me but I'd like a second opinion.


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## Lindo (Dec 31, 2012)

Also, here is a pic of the hole. Maybe I should cover it?


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## crowntaillove3 (Dec 26, 2012)

I agree with Callistra...it does look a bit swollen, and it is always open. (at least in the pics) So there is your second opinion, and I agree. I hope that he gets better if he is sick!


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## Lindo (Dec 31, 2012)

Since I put him in his new tank, he wont stop swimming around. He loves it! 

He used to swim around a lot in his 1/2 gallon too, but lately he was just mostly laying around the bottom.

But now he is swimming around again!

Also, instead of all spring water, I did approx. 60/40 spring/tap water. And I added BettaSafe, and when I put him in the new tank I added a little API Stress Coat.

Should I add anything else to the water? Like Bacteria drops or something?

I want everything to be perfect for my little buddy.


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

That's a bigger hole than I realized. You may want to cover it, but you still want air to get in. Plastic mesh cut to size works well: http://www.shamrockcraft.com.au/MES3015/MESH-PLASTIC-SHEET-7-COUNT-1-PC-#/pd.php You can get it a lot of places and it should be very cheap.

To treat this lip inflammation I would use Epsom salts - pure magnesium sulfate per the ingredients label with no other additives, perfumes or dyes of any kind. I know CVS Pharmacy has some: http://www.cvs.com/shop/product-detail/CVS-Epsom-Salt?skuId=215202 As would most grocery stores. To treat you will predissolve 1 tsp per gallon (so 1 and 1/2 tsp for your tank size) - put a little tank water in a plastic cup and mix up the salts really well until they dissolve. Pour this dissolved mixture very slowly into the tank over the course of an hour. You must acclimate slowly because epsom salts can lower ph and you don't want to cause shock.

I would leave him in the salts for 2 weeks. I don't think he will need anything else, but just watch him carefully. They will not leave the water, so you only need to redose along with a water change. You should change his water more frequently during this time - normally 2-3 water changes a week are needed - 2 50% and one 100% weekly. During this treatment time I would up these water changes to 100% every other day. Use the guide back on the first page to do the changes without shocking.

ETA: Didn't realize you were using spring water.. that kind of water is usually RO and you actually can't use it pure. It lacks necessary electrolytes for fish health and the ph is usually far too low to keep fish in. It's really important whatever you use however to keep it extremely consistent.. no "about" mixtures as these swings can be really hard on the fish. You can cut tap water with RO at various mixture amounts - usually 50/50 works fine or is a good starting place, but you have to test your ph and gh to be sure.. You have to measure it _exactly_ the same every time, once you find a good mix. Usually using plain tap water is a lot easier, but there are rare cases when tap water isn't good. Can I ask why you don't want to use your tap water? Do you know the ph and gh of the tap water?


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## crowntaillove3 (Dec 26, 2012)

That hole is bigger than I thought...Craft mesh would be good, or anything that allows oxygen to get in. If you can't get anything to cover it, just lower the water.


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## MattsBettas (Dec 18, 2012)

"Velvet comes from deer antlers." Umm... Ok? It's a microscopic parasite.


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

^ I know I know let's not spam up his thread but I got a good laugh too.


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## Lindo (Dec 31, 2012)

callistra said:


> To treat this lip inflammation I would use Epsom salts - pure magnesium sulfate per the ingredients label with no other additives, perfumes or dyes of any kind. I know CVS Pharmacy has some: http://www.cvs.com/shop/product-detail/CVS-Epsom-Salt?skuId=215202 As would most grocery stores. To treat you will predissolve 1 tsp per gallon (so 1 and 1/2 tsp for your tank size) - put a little tank water in a plastic cup and mix up the salts really well until they dissolve. Pour this dissolved mixture very slowly into the tank over the course of an hour. You must acclimate slowly because epsom salts can lower ph and you don't want to cause shock.
> 
> I would leave him in the salts for 2 weeks. I don't think he will need anything else, but just watch him carefully. They will not leave the water, so you only need to redose along with a water change. You should change his water more frequently during this time - normally 2-3 water changes a week are needed - 2 50% and one 100% weekly. During this treatment time I would up these water changes to 100% every other day. Use the guide back on the first page to do the changes without shocking.
> 
> ETA: Didn't realize you were using spring water.. that kind of water is usually RO and you actually can't use it pure. It lacks necessary electrolytes for fish health and the ph is usually far too low to keep fish in. It's really important whatever you use however to keep it extremely consistent.. no "about" mixtures as these swings can be really hard on the fish. You can cut tap water with RO at various mixture amounts - usually 50/50 works fine or is a good starting place, but you have to test your ph and gh to be sure.. You have to measure it _exactly_ the same every time, once you find a good mix. Usually using plain tap water is a lot easier, but there are rare cases when tap water isn't good. Can I ask why you don't want to use your tap water? Do you know the ph and gh of the tap water?


 
Since I have been changing to different waters lately, would he still be acting ok even if he was getting sick due to the sudden pH changes?

Because he seems to be fine.

He swims around alot, but sometimes he stays at the top of the tank, or lays down at the bottom like he is resting.

And lately he has been nipping at the top of the water like he is mad.


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## crowntaillove3 (Dec 26, 2012)

Nipping at the top of the water? Like blowing a bubble? He could just be making a bubble nest, but that is unlikely because of his age. Could you be more specific, please?


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## Lindo (Dec 31, 2012)

crowntaillove3 said:


> Nipping at the top of the water? Like blowing a bubble? He could just be making a bubble nest, but that is unlikely because of his age. Could you be more specific, please?


He keeps going to the top of the water, and he stares at the top like he is look at something. Then he violently nips at the top, and I can even hear the clicking sound when he does it.

He is swimming around a lot now, then he just stops and looks at the top again.

I fed him thinking he was just hungry, but he is still doing it.

And he is putting bubbles everywhere, and he even has a little bubble nest in the corner.


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

Maybe he doesn't like the light. Can you turn it off?

Bubble nests are a good thing. Don't worry about that.


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## crowntaillove3 (Dec 26, 2012)

Your guess is as good as mine.


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## Laki (Aug 24, 2011)

He might be trying to eat a bubble or, depending on the light, he might be seeing his own reflection on the surface?


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