# Ammonia in tap water.



## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

Hey everyone. I just wanted to know if my tank would ever give me a 0 reading for ammonia when my water has .25ppm of ammonia?








These are the results right before I did my water change this afternoon. It's ammonia, nitrite and nitrate respectively. I'm just curious if my tank is truly "cycled" considering I have nitrates and no nitrites, but ~ .25 ammonia.

And for the record, I use Prime as my water conditioner.

Thanks!


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## shellieca (Jul 12, 2012)

When your tank is fully cycled it should process out a .25 tap water ammonia given your tank isn't over stocked & you have the right filtration. How long has your tank been set up? What size? How many fish? My 10g took 6 wks to show nitrites & then I had them for 2 wks. Did you use any kind of bacteria booster?


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

shellieca said:


> When your tank is fully cycled it should process out a .25 tap water ammonia given your tank isn't over stocked & you have the right filtration. How long has your tank been set up? What size? How many fish? My 10g took 6 wks to show nitrites & then I had them for 2 wks. Did you use any kind of bacteria booster?


I have a five gallon tank with an AquaClear 20 filter. It's been up and running since Februrary. It was fully cycled in April, but since I moved to my apartment complex in August, I've always had a .25 ammonia reading. Prior to moving here, I didn't. There was no ammonia in the water at my previous location(s).

The tank's only inhabitants are a male betta fish and a single mystery snail.

I used Tetra Safestart back in August, but I'm not sure if that's what you were talking about when you said "bacteria booster."

ALSO, my tank has wisteria and anacharis in it, which is another reason I'm not sure why I'm getting an ammonia reading.


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## shellieca (Jul 12, 2012)

Did you change the filter when you moved or keep the existing wet until you got it set back up? It's possible you're going through a mini cycle. But being that its been set up since August it should be cycled & like I stated previously, .25 isn't that high so your BB should be processing it out. That's the reading you get right after a water change & 24 hrs later? I know my ammonia reading almost always seems to be about .25 or slightly green but I don't worry about it unless it goes higher. Yours doesn't look quite .25 but definitely shows a trace. Did you test your tap water straight from the tap & then by putting some in a glass, stirring it occasionally & testing it 24 hrs later?


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

shellieca said:


> Did you change the filter when you moved or keep the existing wet until you got it set back up? It's possible you're going through a mini cycle. But being that its been set up since August it should be cycled & like I stated previously, .25 isn't that high so your BB should be processing it out. That's the reading you get right after a water change & 24 hrs later? I know my ammonia reading almost always seems to be about .25 or slightly green but I don't worry about it unless it goes higher. Yours doesn't look quite .25 but definitely shows a trace. Did you test your tap water straight from the tap & then by putting some in a glass, stirring it occasionally & testing it 24 hrs later?


I drained MOST of the water out of the tank and put the filter media under the gravel to keep it wet. 

The .25 reading was taken right BEFORE my weekly water change. In other words, the water that was test had been in the tank for a week.

When I first tested my water source for ammonia, it was straight from the tap. I just added the solutions, shook it, and let it sit for maybe two minutes.

I was told by someone before that it didn't matter if I had the .25ish ammonia reading because I used Prime and that converted it to something *less* dangerous, but I don't know, it still concerns me.


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## Wendyjo (Oct 19, 2012)

How dangerous it is depends on the temp and the Ph. Standard ammonia tests dont really give an accurate reading of harmful ammonia in the tank - it measures all the ammonia, both harmful and the not as harmful. Seachem makes their own ammonia tests to be used with Prime and some of the other water conditioners that measures only the harmful ammonia.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

Wendyjo said:


> How dangerous it is depends on the temp and the Ph. Standard ammonia tests dont really give an accurate reading of harmful ammonia in the tank - it measures all the ammonia, both harmful and the not as harmful. Seachem makes their own ammonia tests to be used with Prime and some of the other water conditioners that measures only the harmful ammonia.


Thanks for your response! If my pH is at 7.6 and my tank is kept at a steady 80 degrees, how harmful is the ammonia that I, for some reason, can't get out of my tank?


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## paloverde (Nov 9, 2012)

Well, it sure looks more yellow than light green to me. You have 0 nitrite & about 5.0 ppm for nitrate. I think your tank is still holding steady, is your ph < than 7 ?


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

paloverde said:


> Well, it sure looks more yellow than light green to me. You have 0 nitrite & about 5.0 ppm for nitrate. I think your tank is still holding steady, is your ph < than 7 ?


I agree that it looks closer to yellow than green, but because I know that it used to be WITHOUT A DOUBT yellow, I just wanted to double check. 

My tank's pH as of a few hours ago is 7.6


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## Wendyjo (Oct 19, 2012)

There are some calculations you have to do to figure it out. I'm horrible at that stuff so I just went ahead and bought the Seachem test kit, altho since my tanks are cycled I hardly use it. Still good to have around tho and I did use it after the hurricane last week.

Here are some links if you are interested in trying to do the calculations:

http://cnykoi.com/calculators/calcnh3c.asp

http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/Ammonia

http://www.aquaworldaquarium.com/Articles/TonyGriffitts/Ammonia.htm


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

Wendyjo said:


> There are some calculations you have to do to figure it out. I'm horrible at that stuff so I just went ahead and bought the Seachem test kit, altho since my tanks are cycled I hardly use it. Still good to have around tho and I did use it after the hurricane last week.
> 
> Here are some links if you are interested in trying to do the calculations:
> 
> ...


I'm assuming that the ammonia that's left in my tank isn't really the "toxic" ammonia. All of the calculation pages you gave me were for 1ppm ammonia, and it was virtually nonexistent at my pH and Temperature. So, with that reasoning, I'm assuming there's an even smaller quantity of "dangerous" ammonia in my tank since I'm getting a reading of ~.25ppm.

Actually, according to this, my ammonia reading is about 0.0064 ppm. And while I'm happy it's deemed "safe," will it ever be 0? Or should I just expect my test results to always look as they do in the first post?


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## Wendyjo (Oct 19, 2012)

If the tank it properly cycled it should be at 0 within a few hours of adding your tap water . It's quite odd that it's not if you're using a standard drop test as they are not all that sensitive. By that I mean that the Seachem test can detect even trace amounts of ammonia. I just did some tests cause this post got me wondering about it all, and on the standard API test it showed 0, the Seachem test for dangerous ammonia was 0, but the Seachem test for total ammonia had a very faint reading that the API test didn't even register.

Maybe your test kit is expired? Try it on something that you know should have 0 ammonia, such as a bottle of Deer Park water (not all bottled waters are created equal, but Deer Park is pretty good) and see what happens.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Thanks for the calculator and the background articles, WendyJo---and for the good advice, in general.


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## Wendyjo (Oct 19, 2012)

Well please keep us posted - I am curious to know why this is happening.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

Oh sorry, I read your post earlier today and completely forgot to respond to it.

My tests aren't supposed to expire until 2017, and when I did a test on a bottle of deer park water, it gave me a similar reading to the one in my first post. It wasn't ABSOLUTELY yellow, but had a sort of greenish tint to it. I'm not really sure what's going on. Maybe it's the lighting in my room or something?


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

I always read my vials in tanklight (6500K) or daylight.

OldFishLady is fond of pointing out: there will always be a little ammonia in the tank. There are limitations to the accuracy of our hobby-grade, easilly affordable test kits.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

I tried experimenting with lighting this time. In both pictures, I tested my tank's water (left vial) and a bottle of deer park water (right vial.) In the left picture, the vials are in front of a white piece of printer paper in front of my tank (without it, the test results are inaccurate) and in the right picture, they're in front the same piece of computer paper, but in front of my window, blinds closed.

edit: Okay, sort of disregard those pictures. After taking them, I looked over at the vials (which were in front of the window) and apparently, the one on the left changed colors. My camera died, and I tried to use my phone, but it couldn't quite capture the difference in colors. So, I had to use my laptop's webcam. Hopefully you all can see what I see.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

The left vial (tank) apparently has more ammonia than the right vial (bottled water). In fact it looks like around 0.25ppm.

What does your sourcewater (tap) look like?


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

I'm sorry it's taken me so long to respond!

I'm not able to get a good picture of the source water vial. It's night time here so I can't use the window for natural light, and my camera(s) make(s) it look yellow. But in person, it's an unmistakably clear .25ppm.

Also, today's my water change day and my tank is at a definite .5ppm. At the same time, my nitrites are 0 and nitrates are abnormally high at 10ppm (it's usually 5ppm). What's going on?


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

As I research and correspond about nitrite with both experienced and new keepers, I get more...well, confused is too strong, but...

It seems sometimes nitrite-processing bacteria will convert it straight to nitrate without actually reading measurable nitrite. And sometimes nitrites will increase and refuse to reduce and never show nitrates. 

A riddle, wrapped in a quandary enmeshed in an enigma.


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## Wendyjo (Oct 19, 2012)

never heard that before, about it refusing to reduce. Can you share the link?


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Some of it is in personal correspondence which I am uncomfortable sharing. PM Karebear13 for her nightmare experience with nitrite. Or look up her posts on the matter. 

There have been other members with this problem whose names do not immediately come to mind. (I'm really out-of-it, today.)

This is also a problem among members over at TFK. I get a lot of background by following the "Similar Threads" just below the posts on this and other pages.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

Well, good news. I did a water change today since I'm leaving for Thanksgiving Break tomorrow and my ammonia's reading 0 (well not QUITE zero, but it's a lot more yellow than it was at the beginning of this thread), nitrites are 0, and nitrates are back at their usual 5ppm. I'm not sure what happened, but I'm glad it did. Thanks for all your help, everyone!


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

Maybe gallon by gallon leave it out and have things like Marimo in there and let themn lower the ammonia. You could also use duckweed.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

ChoclateBetta said:


> Maybe gallon by gallon leave it out and have things like Marimo in there and let themn lower the ammonia. You could also use duckweed.


I already have a marimo and duckweed in my tank. 

Oh, but you just reminded me, I got hornwort, duckweed and moneywort at the end of last week. I think they might actually have something to do with the lower level of ammonia/nitrates. I'm also getting some more anacharis within the next week and a half, so between all of these plants (forgot to mention that i have some of wisteria in there!), I'm hoping my ammonia reading reaches a definite zero. I'll keep everyone updated ~


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

That will really help with it.


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## Wendyjo (Oct 19, 2012)

Yay - glad to hear it!


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

Duckweed is very good at removing nutrients so the more light the tank gets the better the plants remove nutrients.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Wisteria, Duckweed, Hornwort and Anacharis... a panoply of ammonia-suckers that aren't root-feeders. I'm sure they helped. Sometimes it's just a mystery why a cycle will stall and at what stage. 

Glad you're cycled---so are the fish. ;-}


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## finnfinnfriend (Feb 3, 2012)

Omg wow....I thought I knew everything I needed to know but now I feel helpless. What are we supposed to do if our tap water has ammonia in it? I would likely just move and save myself the headache -_-


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

finnfinnfriend said:


> Omg wow....I thought I knew everything I needed to know but now I feel helpless. What are we supposed to do if our tap water has ammonia in it? I would likely just move and save myself the headache -_-


I personally don't know how the problem suddenly solved itself, because it's one I've been battling since I moved into my apartment complex in August. However, like I said earlier, what seemed to help was the addition of more plants. I already had one marimo, some wisteria and like two/three stems of anacharis, but since I've added more wisteria, some duckweed, three stems of moneywort and hornwort, the ammonia reading's gone down to *almost* zero.


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## finnfinnfriend (Feb 3, 2012)

colorxmexravyne said:


> I personally don't know how the problem suddenly solved itself, because it's one I've been battling since I moved into my apartment complex in August. However, like I said earlier, what seemed to help was the addition of more plants. I already had one marimo, some wisteria and like two/three stems of anacharis, but since I've added more wisteria, some duckweed, three stems of moneywort and hornwort, the ammonia reading's gone down to *almost* zero.


I dont like using live plants though -_-. i dont currently have ammonia in ky tap water but im not going to live here forever...I'm glad you problem is solved though


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

finnfinnfriend said:


> I dont like using live plants though -_-. i dont currently have ammonia in ky tap water but im not going to live here forever...I'm glad you problem is solved though


Why not? o: I think the benefits of live plants outweigh the consequences...if there even are any. But to each their own.  I think the best way to combat ammonia in tap water is to have a good, established cycle. So, if your tank is stabilized now, it *should* make quick work of any ammonia introduced to it via the tap water in the future.


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## finnfinnfriend (Feb 3, 2012)

colorxmexravyne said:


> Why not? o: I think the benefits of live plants outweigh the consequences...if there even are any. But to each their own.  I think the best way to combat ammonia in tap water is to have a good, established cycle. So, if your tank is stabilized now, it *should* make quick work of any ammonia introduced to it via the tap water in the future.


Oh, so once the tank is cycled, it doesn't really matter if there is ammonia in the tap water? Maybe the tank will cycle faster with ammonia in the tap water? How often will you find ammonia in your tap water? is it a common thing?


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

finnfinnfriend said:


> Oh, so once the tank is cycled, it doesn't really matter if there is ammonia in the tap water? Maybe the tank will cycle faster with ammonia in the tap water? How often will you find ammonia in your tap water? is it a common thing?


Don't take my word as law because I'm not 100% sure, but I believe that in theory, no it doesn't matter if your tap water as ammonia because a cycled tank SHOULD take care of it so long as it's not some obscene amount. However, my tank had been cycled since the beginning of April of this year and was, for some reason, still affected by the ammonia in my tap.

I think the chances of finding ammonia in your water depends on location. I didn't have a problem with ammonia in my tap water when I lived in my on campus dorm, nor was it a problem at my parents' house over the summer. But when I moved to my apartment 10 minutes AWAY from campus, I tested the water and I got a .25ppm reading. It might be helpful to know that my parents live in a rural area outside city limits, and my school/apartment is in a suburbia within city limits. You're probably more likely to have ammonia in water where there are more people (ie, an urban area) since ammonia is sometimes used to "treat" water (it's a disinfectant). That being said, I'm sure there are several cases of people having ammonia in their tap water, enough to be called a "common" issue.

I'm not sure if the tank will cycle faster with ammonia from the tap in it, so I'll leave that question unanswered. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable on the subject can answer your question.


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## finnfinnfriend (Feb 3, 2012)

colorxmexravyne said:


> Don't take my word as law because I'm not 100% sure, but I believe that in theory, no it doesn't matter if your tap water as ammonia because a cycled tank SHOULD take care of it so long as it's not some obscene amount. However, my tank had been cycled since the beginning of April of this year and was, for some reason, still affected by the ammonia in my tap.
> 
> I think the chances of finding ammonia in your water depends on location. I didn't have a problem with ammonia in my tap water when I lived in my on campus dorm, nor was it a problem at my parents' house over the summer. But when I moved to my apartment 10 minutes AWAY from campus, I tested the water and I got a .25ppm reading. It might be helpful to know that my parents live in a rural area outside city limits, and my school/apartment is in a suburbia within city limits. You're probably more likely to have ammonia in water where there are more people (ie, an urban area) since ammonia is sometimes used to "treat" water (it's a disinfectant). That being said, I'm sure there are several cases of people having ammonia in their tap water, enough to be called a "common" issue.
> 
> I'm not sure if the tank will cycle faster with ammonia from the tap in it, so I'll leave that question unanswered. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable on the subject can answer your question.


Thank you. Perhaps I will start a new thread with a few questions about the subject.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

More important than how fast, to me, is what are your readings just before a water change, and after. Of course you're using Prime or a conditioner which converts ammonia instantly to ammonium.

We could all learn a lot if we knew how the tank reduces that ammonia/ammonium on a day-to-day basis. 

Would you do that and post it here? Thanks, Ravyne.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

Hallyx said:


> More important than how fast, to me, is what are your readings just before a water change, and after. Of course you're using Prime or a conditioner which converts ammonia instantly to ammonium.
> 
> We could all learn a lot if we knew how the tank reduces that ammonia/ammonium on a day-to-day basis.
> 
> Would you do that and post it here? Thanks, Ravyne.


I'm actually not able to do that at the moment. I'm at my parents house for the Holidays and won't be back at my apartment until Sunday. I'll post it then.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

finnfinnfriend said:


> I dont like using live plants though -_-. i dont currently have ammonia in ky tap water but im not going to live here forever...I'm glad you problem is solved though


Why don't you use them?


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

colorxmexravyne said:


> I'm actually not able to do that at the moment. I'm at my parents house for the Holidays and won't be back at my apartment until Sunday. I'll post it then.


There's certainly no hurry. It will make a fine addendum to the "Cycle Log" thread. Thanks.

Have a lovely holiday weekend.


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## Nothingness (Oct 11, 2012)

My tap water has .25ppm ammonia in it. Test the tank water before my water change in my cycled tank and it's .25ppm as well as right after the water change. I use prime as my conditioner. So I generally assume the .25ppm is my baseline reading


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Your ammonia reading just before a water change should be 0.0ppm in a cycled tank.

Even though you're adding ammonia during a water change, it's still important to do it to remove DOCs and to remineralize.

Using 2drop/gal Prime in your refill water will convert the ammonia. Use it every other day or whenever ammonia shows in the tank.


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## Nothingness (Oct 11, 2012)

Hallyx said:


> Your ammonia reading just before a water change should be 0.0ppm in a cycled tank.
> 
> Even though you're adding ammonia during a water change, it's still important to do it to remove DOCs and to remineralize.
> 
> Using 2drop/gal Prime in your refill water will convert the ammonia. Use it every other day or whenever ammonia shows in the tank.


OK thanks....Ammonia is present at all times at .25ppm in the tank even after adding the prime....Im guessing this is just ammonium. I recently went to a planted tank as well. My readings yesterday before and after my 50% change of a 10g were A=0.25ppm NI=0 NA=5ppm. all levels were the same after the change and conditioner


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

I have read water dechorantator removes ammonia.


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## Nothingness (Oct 11, 2012)

I am not overly concerned as Arthur is doing great and the ammonia levels never seem to get past .25ppm. I am hoping as well that with the addition of the live plants that they should help to maintain a healthy eco system


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

Bettas can do a few months before problems. Aquariums are never ecosystems.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Good on the live plants, as much as you can handle. Sometimes they work better than cycling, it seems.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

They help cycling.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

The nitrogen cycle is the growing of nitrifying bacteria to consume and/or convert organic toxins---ammonia and nitrites.

Plants consume ammonia as a nutrient, while ignoring the cycle altogether. Plants do not help cycling. They have nothing to do with cycling.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

Ponds are cycled and they have plants. They maybe take some but there is still enough left for cycling.


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## Wendyjo (Oct 19, 2012)

Nearly all plants, unless grown in a sterile environment, have beneficial bacteria clinging to them and if you plant heavily this can greatly help with the cycle.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

I don't think you can grow plants in a sterile envirement.


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## Wendyjo (Oct 19, 2012)

I think the ones in the tube won't have much if any bacteria, whereas ones straight out of a tank will.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

What?


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## Wendyjo (Oct 19, 2012)

The plants that come in the plastic tube - they are in there for so long that the bacteria will have died on them.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

Oh those.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Wendyjo said:


> Nearly all plants...have beneficial bacteria clinging to them and if you plant heavily this can greatly help with the cycle.


Right, all added surface area helps, silk plants or live. Nitrifying bacteria grow also on the stock and, according to Thunderloon, even in the corners of your eyes and mucus membranes---anywhere there's moisture.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

That is gross. Did you know there are more bacteria in your body than people on earth. Did you know most people americans included have parasites.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

Well, I guess I actually didn't solve the problem.

I tested my water before and after changing it today. Before the water change, the ammonia was unusually high AGAIN at 0.5ppm. This time, the nitrates were still in check at their usual 5ppm. Nitrites were (and always are) at zero. After the water change, the ammonia's back down to the *almost* zero (0.0059ppm according to this) that it was at the last time I updated. 

I'm not entirely sure, but I think I might actually have a reason for the ammonia being so high this time. I was gone for a grand total of about five days. That's five days without me being here to turn my tank light on to give the plants the amount of light they need, which is usually somewhere around 8 to 10 hours. Needless to say, when I came back I had to do a little damage control because some of my plants were starting to die off and rot. Whether or not five days was enough to make nearly 0.5ppm of ammonia, I don't know but I suppose I'll know for sure next week (or possibly Thursday) when I do my water change ~


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

Hallyx said:


> Right, all added surface area helps, silk plants or live. Nitrifying bacteria grow also on the stock and, according to Thunderloon, even in the corners of your eyes and mucus membranes---anywhere there's moisture.


 And where there is food how would they get food in the corner of your eye?


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## Nothingness (Oct 11, 2012)

ChoclateBetta said:


> And where there is food how would they get food in the corner of your eye?


From the air and also you prob touch your eyes a whole bunch of times through out the day so some kinda food source is most likely transferred that way


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## bethyMT (Nov 24, 2012)

You're always shedding skin cells,everwhere. Add some moisture to that, and viola- nitrifying bacterial growth!!

Spores of the bacteria are in the air all the time. 

Hey, all that bacteria seems gross, but those things keep us alive.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

I doubt corener of highs the salinity seems too high.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

ChoclateBetta said:


> I doubt corener of highs the salinity seems too high.


You would think so, but bacteria lives virtually everywhere you do and even in some places where you can't. They're everywhere - in you, on you and all around you.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

But invertabrates that are freshwater like bacteria are not good with salt that is why aquarium salts hurt filter and kill disease.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

ChoclateBetta said:


> But invertabrates that are freshwater like bacteria are not good with salt that is why aquarium salts hurt filter and kill disease.


Bacteria aren't invertebrates because they're unicellular, but I see what you're saying. However, as I said earlier, bacteria can live virtually _anywhere._ Certain species of bacteria have over time gained a tolerance to salt and some even thrive in salty conditions. True, the ones in our freshwater aquariums can be killed with with a little aquarium salt, but the same probably doesn't hold true to the billions of bacteria hanging out in marine aquariums.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

Still what kills inverts will usually kill disease.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

The bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite (nitrosomonas) are the same for both fresh and saltwater. If memory serves, the ones that convert nitrite to nitrate may be different---nitrospira for fresh and nitrobacter for salt. Nitrospira is moderately salt tolerant. 

None of those reproduce from spores, but they are in the air and do get around. There are other types of nitrifying bacteria that do reproduce from spores, but they are not the ones that do the double-conversion process in which we're interested.



bethyMT said:


> Hey, all that bacteria seems gross, but those things keep us alive.


Evolutionary biologist and mollusc-maven Steven J Gould says they comprise almost half of our dry body weight.


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## finnfinnfriend (Feb 3, 2012)

Is there a cycle going on in my mouth? 0.o


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Bacteria are constantly reproducing and growing, using energy and excreting waste product which are used by other bacteria and micro-organisms, because nothing is wasted in nature.

So in a sense, yes, there is a cycle going on in your mouth. And that cycle is a sub-cycle of one that keeps your body going. That macro energy exchange (cycle) is part of a natural cycle that includes soil, air, water and other living things, visible and invisible.

All together, now, let's sing a chorus of _The Circle of Life_ (from The Lion King)


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

I am pretty sure the bacteria in your mouth are outcompeting ammonia and nitrate bacteria.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

My anacharis order is out of quarantine and I've added it to my tank. It was a lot more than I thought it it was, haha! I'll check my water parameters on Wednesday and we'll see if it helped with that last little bit of ammonia.  The good news is that I'm down to just two plastic plants - that sword looking one there in the middle (the shorter one with the "pretty" leaves is live wisteria, though) and a fake moneywort looking plant that you can't even really see anymore.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

Pothos growing from the lid.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

This is a little late, but I'm happy to report that my ammonia level is down to zero. My nitrates are still about 5ppm which I find weird considering I have so many plants, but I'm not going to question it.

In the end, I think it was definitely the plants that got the rest of the ammonia out. I mostly have anacharis, but also some wisteria, a good bit of hornwort, about three small stems of bacopa caroliniana, two marimo balls and some duckweed. Yay stem plants!


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

You can grow your lucky bamboo through a hole in the lid.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

ChoclateBetta said:


> You can grow your lucky bamboo through a hole in the lid.


Lol, thanks for the advice but I don't have lucky bamboo.


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

Right corner of your pic. Outside the tank.


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## colorxmexravyne (May 8, 2012)

ChoclateBetta said:


> Right corner of your pic. Outside the tank.


Oh that? That was a gift for my roommate. It's in her room now and she doesn't keep fish. It's doing pretty well though!


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

You can easily get semi aquatics.


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