# 2 neon tetras found dead this morning



## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

i'm a new VT male betta owner and I had 8 neon tetras and I have 2 algae eater fish. This morning I wake up to find 2 of my neon tetras dead. One looks like its been eaten..... my betta never goes around them when I'm observing.......I've had my betta almost 2 weeks and I've only had the tetras 2 or 3 days. I have pics of them I'm going to post so you can look at the deceased tetras and tell me your option...i found them dead between a plant leaf and the filter intake tube (however I know the filter didnt kill them bc of the marks they have and it doesnt have a strong pull) as you will see one of the tetras head is almost completely off of him....


http://s1308.beta.photobucket.com/user/resa83/library/Tetras


please check it out thank you ...i posted a pic of the filter tube and the plant leaf that are close together and i wanted to add text to it so i can show you exactly where i found the tetras but i cant figure out how to do that on photobucket or my mac 

what i also want to know is this going to contaminate my tank at all??


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

Considering the fact Neons tend to die off in the first week of introduction it's hard to determent. The missing chuck could just be a result of Neon dies Betta sees easy food source. I generally discourage the housing of Neons and Bettas. If you really want to house them together though you need to take a slower approach. First off they should be quarantined for a month before they hit the main tank. Your Neons will be at their weakest when being introduce to a new tank but if you give them time to adjust to your water parameters they will respond better to tank switches. Plus the fact these guys tend to bring home more diseases then any other species of fish I have worked with. There is going to be die off when stocking Neons. It doesn't matter how perfect the water is. It's just a fact of Neon keeping. You can minimize the die off though by taking steps to insure the move from pet store to QT to main tank are as stress free as possible. After QT time I would divide the tank for a week before I let everyone roam free. Gives the Betta a chance to become secure in the fact the Neons aren't a threat to his territory. Healthy Neons are fast enough to avoid the aggressions of a Betta but Neons are so touchy and fragile in the first week of a tank intro an aggressive Betta could easily kill the weaker ones.


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## Bounce (May 26, 2012)

If I understand correctly from your other thread, this was a newly set up tank and you added eight neon tetras and two "algae eaters" just yesterday. Neons are sensitive little fish and I feel they really shouldn't be put into an aquarium until after it has cycled. I'm sorry to say, but this is probably what led to their demise -- adding too much too soon to an uncycled tank.


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## Olympia (Aug 25, 2011)

Agree with the above.
The betta probably didn't kill them. Once a fish dies though, they are irresistible to other fish and tend to get eaten pretty fast. (If a fish dies overnight in my tank I wake up to a skeleton).

If these fish have not been QT'd, there is a risk they will pass on disease to the betta fish.


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## Myates (Aug 2, 2011)

A new tank with that many fish added into it at once will put the tank into shock with ammonia and such. Highly suggest keeping a very close eye on the chemistry with a tester for the next 6 weeks or so.. as mentioned, neons are small and can be delicate due to that. Most likely it passed due to numerous reasons such as not being placed in an established tank and there was an ammonia spike, or improper acclimation process, stress, was sick prior, etc. It's not uncommon to see half eaten fish in a community tank - it's free food for them all.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

i cant QT them....it is what it is now tho..... and i didnt know i couldnt add other fish to my tank so soon...how long should i have waited? and should i just flush the tetras? i know that sounds bad but there's nothing else i can do with them


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

how long does it take a tank to cycle? what disease can they give my betta? and if its highly possible they can give him a disease then i need to rid them asap right


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

i do not have the money for a complete testing kit unfortunately i live off of a tight once a month budget that i've already used paying bills and buying fish stuff


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

Give the Neons back to the store you got them from before flushing them. If you have Chinese Algae Eaters return them as well. They grow into fish killers. I would ask for store credit though first though for the fish you are returning.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok i'm on a tetra forum too and im in their chat room and they agree with you on returning them  i feel so guilty and ignorant tho


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

resa said:


> ok i'm on a tetra forum too and im in their chat room and they agree with you on returning them  i feel so guilty and ignorant tho


You have to learn some how. I find it commendable to see someone trying to correct a mistake then just let the fish die. A lot of pet stores list them as beginner fish as well and this is not the case.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

on the tetra forum their telling me to suck out the water while the fish are in there and leave just enough for the fish to swim in and then put clean water in there again and fill back up.....


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

Yes changing the water will reduce the ammonia in the tank and make it safer for the fish. You still need to return the neons and algae eaters. The neons will not survive a cycling process and from the pictures in your album it looks like you have Chinese Algae Eaters though it's hard to tell from that picture. They are not true algae eaters and grow up to to 11". They are also known fish killers once they mature. They move off eating algae to sucking the sides of their tank mates.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok so i still need to do water changes everyday even once i bring the tetras back? bc thats what that forum is telling me in the thread i created and in the chat room


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

You only need to daily till all the Neons are removed and one right after they are remove. I suggest you read the stickies on the forums about cycling and water changes for Bettas. Since you can't get a test kit then it's going to be hard to determine if the water is safe for your betta. It can take a month or longer to cycle a tank and I will suggest preparing the new water the night before. I am not sure of the weather in winter in your location but if you are the heating tank to keep it around 80ish degrees you will need to heat the new water as well. If the tank is holding the correct temperature without a lot of help from the heater then just allowing the water to sit in the same room over night will ensure your Betta is not getting a temperature change shock each water change you do.


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

Here let me help a little more. These are all good reading material in my option. They will help answer a few questions for you I believe

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=115758
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=111960
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=107771
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=30139


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

im taking tetras and algae eaters back today.... so tonight should i do a 100% water change? unfortunately i do not have anything to put new water in until its temp is correct...the only hose i have is one that connects to the water hose and it sucks out the water that way and pushes water in from the hose...however i still have my bettas 1 gallon bowl i can put him in that until his tank reaches the desired temperature...i do need to take some things back to walmart so i'll get money back on those so i may have a little money for the test kit 20.00 but thats it so what test kit do i need to get for my bettas tank water if you could find something on petsmarts website or walmarts that would be very helpful  thanks for putting so much effort into this with and for me


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok reading from first link you gave....what is the filter media?


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

Filter media is what actually goes into the filter. It is fits into 3 categories. Biological which is normally a sponge or other items Bactria can live on/in. Chemical is normally carbon and clean chemicals out of the water column. Mechanical removes small to large partical from the water column. 

As far as test kits you want something like this http://www.apifishcare.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=67. Liquid test kits are more accurate the strip test kits but Any you can afford are better then none.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

i see the api master test kit is more than i'll have when i go to the store....is there one thats between 10.00 and 15.00?


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

thank you now when i click on liquid test kits it gives me several things i can click on...which one is the most important i need to test for?


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok what is the most important test kit i'll need? ammonia liquid test kit? or other


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates. You need all three when cycling a tank. Once cycled you will generally only need a Nitrates test.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok hopefully petsmart or walmart will have a nitrate test kit...if not what is the second necessary thing to have? and considering my fish's situation is there any medication i need to buy?


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

i am taking the tetras and algae eaters back period btw..... just saying


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

im getting confused bc on the other sites forums its saying nitrate test kits are needed bc i'll be doing frequent water changes...but this is what i want....NOT TO HAVE TO CHANGE WATER VERY OFTEN what helps keep me from doing that?


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

Aquarium salt and Epson salt. Both are fairly cheap and best thing you can have around to treat Bettas with. One of the main reason I do not recommend housing Neons with Bettas is the fact Tetras are very sensitive to salts. You can treat the majority of Betta issues with these two salts unless you have a type of tetra in your tank. You can also buy Indian Almond Leaves to keep in your tank. There are pros and cons to keeping IAL in your tank. The con mostly being the water color if that bothers you. 

You have a lot to digest over then next few days. You can just keep to a uncycled water change routine right now and buy the test kits items as you can afford it. There is many forums with DIY sections to where you can find ways to make items you may need or want for a lot less then you can buy them.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

im being told on fishforums.net that i wont be needing a nitrate kit bc i'll be changing my water im getting confused


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

right now i cant tell that he's sick but i was just asking ya know in case he does get this way..i have epsom salt already but didnt know it could be used for fishies


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

IAL is good for all Blackwater fish.


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

You will be changing the water weekly so I can see getting away with not buying a nitrates test.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

Quote:
Here is how I do water changes.

I turn off my heater and filter, I start siphoning the gravel until the desired amount of water is removed. In your case, remove water until you have left just enough water for your fish to swim, let's say the height of his body plus 1 inch or so. Then, fill your bucket with clean dechlorinated water (try to temperature match it, you can use your tank thermometer) and add it back in until you have filled it all the way up again. Then restart your filter and heater.

Yes, in the beginning, fish don't like this and will swim around frantic and hide... but they do get used to it and it becomes less of a deal. My guppies, for example, follow my siphon around and make it a pain.



this is the solution i will be using....as well as using my gravel vacuum thank you all for your help


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

Someone forgot to tell my Neons and Danios to be scared of the gravel vacuum. They think cleaning time is a big game of chase the tube.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

lol thats cute phay........now another forum is telling me to get the ammonia test kit and nitrate test kit ....see why im getting confused  which one is more important for goodness sakes?


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

Ammonia Test kit.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ChoclateBetta said:


> IAL is good for all Blackwater fish.



what is IAL


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

thanks cbetta..... ha i made a shorter name sorry


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

Indian Almond Leaves.


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

Ammonia and Nitrites test are the most important. Those both can and will kill fish. Nitrates aren't as toxic to fish and are the end produce of a bio filter.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

Phaydra said:


> Ammonia and Nitrites test are the most important. Those both can and will kill fish. Nitrates aren't as toxic to fish and are the end produce of a bio filter.


sorry i dont quite understand what you just said..


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

.i brought my tetras back in a bowl with water from the aquarium and i had them test it and the alkaline was past the testing thing he said he couldnt believe the rest of the fish didnt die







he had to put them in QT and bring them back to health bout to go to the store to get a test kit...i seen a amonia test kit made by seachem and it stays in the tank with a suction cup is this worth it? and what type of test do i really need now knowing what was wrong with my tank? i'm about to leave in 15-20 min maybe less so please help me and respond quickly thank you


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

also im using the aqua tech 5-15 model filter and it states in the instructions to change cartridge every 2 to 4 weeks is this necessary?


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## MSG (May 8, 2012)

*Just get the API Master Test Kit.*

It has everything you need.

$20-$25 is worth it for this test kit because it will last you well over a year. 

The ammonia alert with the suction cups is a waste of money.

For the filter, no you don't need to change the cartridge. If it gets clogged with bacteria goodness, just rinse out the filter media once every 1-2 months in a 5 gallon bucket of your siphoned tank water.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok i broke down and got the api master test kit! i havent done a water change yet. i'm doing that at some point today though. but i went ahead and tested the nitrite and nitrate and ph..... well the nitrate and nitrite came back at 0 and the ph basic test was bright bright blue and i didnt do the ammonia test or that other ph high test yet.....but now i see why petsmart said my water has so much alkaline in it, it was from the ph test reading. so i'm going to do a water change at some point today and then do these test over


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## Olympia (Aug 25, 2011)

Yay! Do the ammonia test too, that's the one you most likely have in your water right now. As long as the water stays clean I'm sure the betta will be fine.

From the pH test you have alkaline water. _This is not bad for your betta, don't worry!_ Bettas aren't too sensitive to things like pH, but some other fish (like the tetras) wouldn't do as well in high pH.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok i've finished the cleaning of my tank hours ago. this is my test results after having cleaned the tank (i also cleaned all decor as well) ammonia was .50-1.0 ....PH was 7.6.....PH High was 8.4-8.8......nitrite was 0.....nitrate was 0....so now what


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## Olympia (Aug 25, 2011)

Hmm, that's still really high for ammonia. I'd try another change tomorrow.. Definitely what did the tetras in. Have you cleaned out the filter? Take a bucket of dirty aquarium water and rinse out the filter cartridge.


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

I would suggest checking your tap water for ammonia too. Mine has ammonia in it so I use Prime as my water conditioner.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok at some point today i'll do another water change....now i did leave zeek in the tank to do te water change and only left enough water in it for him to swim around in....should i remove him this time to do a 100% water change? and i'll check the tap water with the test before i do anything else today.....


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

another site is telling me i dont need to do a filter cleaning since its only a week old


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

so if my water conditioner isnt working for the PH, PH High and the ammonia what do i do


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

PH you don't want to mess with. Your boy will adjust to the PH. If you have ammonia in the water you want to buy a water conditioner that is made for tap water with ammonia. I use Prime but it is on the more expensive side.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok on everyone told me to get that API master test so i did, now on that it has a piece of paper that states when certain test are high it recommends a product to bring down the high levels or if their low to raise the low levels. but i don't quite understand still which products i need to buy.....and i do still have my betta's 1 gallon bowl with a top and LED lights for it if I need to remove him while doing anything to the tank. WHEN HELPING ME PLEASE MAKE SURE EVERYTHING YOU SAY IS SIMPLY FORMATED AND VERY EASY TO UNDERSTAND ....thanks everyone for your help


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

and as of right now i cannot buy any other fish to help with any cycling methods just thought i'd throw that in there


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

You only need one fish to cycle a tank which you have
You do not want to change your PH. Your Betta will adjust to it. Any change to the PH will add cost and headaches down the road. 
Remember anything you read from a company that makes products to sale will try to sell you other products you don't need.

Did you test your tap water? 
Does it contain Ammonia or Nitrites? 
If it contains neither you only need a water conditioner like API Stress Coat. 
If it contains Ammonia you need a water conditioner like Prime.
If it contains Nitrites you need to find a new water source.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

wow ok the test for ammonia directly out of my faucet in the kitchen was berween .50 and 1.0 ......test results from the tank are.... between .50 and 1.0


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

i didnt test my water for nitrites bc after cleaning the tank yesterday i tested it for nitrites and nitrates and they were both 0


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

i was just Google "nitrogen cycle for aquarium" and i pulled a page up that states there's a product that you can buy that claims it can cycle a tank within 24 hours and it may or may not still be on the market shelves? its called Marineland BIO-Spira it has a saltwater one and a freshwater one and it does state that the freshwater one may have been taken off the market


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

It's a useless product. Any bacteria in them is killed off do to shipping and storage conditions. If you want to speed up the cycle the only thing you can do is pull gravel or filter media from an already cycled tank.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok what about seachem stability it also helps speed up the cycle


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

i dont have any other cycled tanks nor do i know anyone with one. all we have is a 20 gallon mississippi map turtle tank and i believe that wouldnt help us what so ever


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

I use a lot of Seachem products but I will not put money in anything that claims to speed up cycle. It's another bacteria in a bottle product that normally only had dead bacteria. Don't waste your money


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## Olympia (Aug 25, 2011)

If you have the money, Stability is an excellent product. 
Your pH is very high so naturally the cycle will move at a slower pace.
Sadly there isn't much you can do if there is ammonia in your tap water. Dose Seachem Prime daily into the water until you see the ammonia starting to disappear.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok well i dont have seachem prime at the moment can i just use my top fin betta water conditioner daily or every other day?


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## ChoclateBetta (Jul 22, 2012)

I always forget to cycle. I think I had Old Tank Syndrome ounce. I cannot keep Shrimp and My Otos died after momths. But I use many Plants.


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## Olympia (Aug 25, 2011)

Yes resa that will help too, says it helps with ammonia.


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## Leon (Jul 2, 2012)

Hey Resa,
I'm going to talk some basics for a while, if anything confuses you let me/the other posters know  Also, if this starts getting boring and covers things you've already researched, awesome! and just skip the silly thing.

We've talked a lot about cycling tanks. A cycled tank is a tank that has bacteria living in the substrate(gravel or sand at the bottom of the tank) and in the spongy mesh that should be a part of your filter cartridge. Very little of this bacteria lives in the water floating, it remains attached to the rough hard surfaces that I listed. These bacteria are a specific type of bacteria that effectively "eat" two compounds called ammonia and nitrites. Ammonia comes from fish poop, as well as any dead "organic" matter in the tank. this can be decomposing food, dead plants, or other dead fish. This ammonia is turned into nitr*ite.* This nitr*ite* is then turned into nitr*ate* by a different bacteria. Nitr*ate* is less toxic to fish, and is then removed when you do a water change, or is used as food for any live plants you may have. In a newly set up tank like yours, these bacteria have not started to live in the gravel and filter, or there aren't enough of them to keep up with the amount of waste your fish produces. This is why it is important to change out some of the water fairly frequently, because the poisonous ammonia and nitrites are not being changed to the less poisonous nitrates. The test kit can tell you how far along your tank has cycled. First, the bacteria that "eat" the ammonia will start to grow. This will mean that when you test the water, the ammonia levels will be low. Around this time, the nitrites will start to increase, because only the first type of bacteria has established itself, and so only the first conversion is happening. The next thing that will happen is that the nitrite levels will drop, and the nitrate levels will rise. This is good. This means that now you have both types of good bacteria working to keep the tank healthy. 
Like the other users have said, the only way to get a tank cycled is, unfortunately, to wait. In the mean time 50% water changes every other day are whats suggested for your size tank in the betta care FAQ sticky.
Just thought I'd talk about the cycle a bit, I dunno how much you've read up but I figgered I'd put it out there because it can be quite confusing.
About changing the filter cartridges in your filter: I have filter cartridges that come with "activated carbon". This is a type of charcoal that absorbs and keeps compounds out of the water. Different people say different things, but I have heard that keeping a cartridge in too long may lead to the carbon leaking these, potentially harmful, chemicals back into the water. Some people suggest that carbon is only necessary when removing medicines or in the presence of an odor problem (though this is usually caused by a problem that should be addressed). If you want, you can remove the charcoal from the filter if it has it by cutting the back and simply picking it out. Then you can keep the filter cartridge and all the good bacteria that live in it without risking endangering your fish. Personally, I remove the cartridge every month since my activated carbon is hard to remove and my filter has whats called a "bio mesh" in it. This provides a home for the bacteria, and when new looks like like a black brillo pad. If you don't have one of these, which I'm guessing is the case based on the size of your tank and the filters that normally work for that size, I would suggest removing the carbon/charcoal if possible to avoid the risk of harmful chemical leaching. Then you can just rinse the remaining spongy mesh in a bucket of tank water and pop it back into the filter.
Right now you are doing good, keep testing the water for the compounds I mentioned, and keep up with water changes.
Also, also, if in the future you have the space, resources, and the desire, I highly recommend upgrading to a 5 or 10gal tank, and this time around you'll be ahead of the game and can cycle before moving your fish. I have a 10 gal and its great, the betta I have in it really came alive once I put her in the tank and she had room to explore.

And here's a link to the betta care sticky if you haven't found it already: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=20058

Sorry for that novel, I just figured that more information couldn't hurt. I hope things turn out well! But be forewarned, once you've been bitten by the betta bug, you're DOOMED to a life full of the pleasures of keeping these wonderful fish ;-)


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## Phaydra (Nov 20, 2012)

resa said:


> ok well i dont have seachem prime at the moment can i just use my top fin betta water conditioner daily or every other day?



Prime I have found is much cheaper through Amazon then through pet stores. Seachem makes Betta specific water conditioner but it changes the water's PH. I highly recommend avoiding PH shifts at this stage. 


This is what you want 
http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-436-P...&qid=1357374897&sr=8-2&keywords=Seachem+Prime

This is what you want to avoid
http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-426-B...&qid=1357375100&sr=1-1&keywords=Seachem+Betta


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

Leon said:


> Hey Resa,
> I'm going to talk some basics for a while, if anything confuses you let me/the other posters know  Also, if this starts getting boring and covers things you've already researched, awesome! and just skip the silly thing.
> 
> We've talked a lot about cycling tanks. A cycled tank is a tank that has bacteria living in the substrate(gravel or sand at the bottom of the tank) and in the spongy mesh that should be a part of your filter cartridge. Very little of this bacteria lives in the water floating, it remains attached to the rough hard surfaces that I listed. These bacteria are a specific type of bacteria that effectively "eat" two compounds called ammonia and nitrites. Ammonia comes from fish poop, as well as any dead "organic" matter in the tank. this can be decomposing food, dead plants, or other dead fish. This ammonia is turned into nitr*ite.* This nitr*ite* is then turned into nitr*ate* by a different bacteria. Nitr*ate* is less toxic to fish, and is then removed when you do a water change, or is used as food for any live plants you may have. In a newly set up tank like yours, these bacteria have not started to live in the gravel and filter, or there aren't enough of them to keep up with the amount of waste your fish produces. This is why it is important to change out some of the water fairly frequently, because the poisonous ammonia and nitrites are not being changed to the less poisonous nitrates. The test kit can tell you how far along your tank has cycled. First, the bacteria that "eat" the ammonia will start to grow. This will mean that when you test the water, the ammonia levels will be low. Around this time, the nitrites will start to increase, because only the first type of bacteria has established itself, and so only the first conversion is happening. The next thing that will happen is that the nitrite levels will drop, and the nitrate levels will rise. This is good. This means that now you have both types of good bacteria working to keep the tank healthy.
> ...




i have a 10 gallon tank, which is uncycled.... and in a little while i'll go check and see whats inside my filter (cartridge and such) for the record i'm using a aqua tech 5-15 model.......it came with a cartridge and bio-fiber and states bio-fiber should never be removed....i have went to walmarts site and copied the info on my filter................


*Item Description*


Top of Page 
The AquaTech Power Filter helps to remove the toxic ammonia and nitrites from the aquarium water. This filter provides filtration in three stages, which will keep your fish healthy and water clean. Â Aquarium Filter Cartridges help to clean out the dirt and dust when water passes through it. In the second stage, the activated carbon present in this AquaTech 5-15 power filter helps to remove dissolved waste and cleans water, which is full of odor. In the last stage, the filter provides extra surface area, which helps bacteria to grow. This bacteria eliminates the harmful ammonia and nitrates from the water, which will protect your fish against these toxins. This filter is available in four sizes. It also provides filtration for aquarium sizes that range from five to sixty gallons of water. It is very important to keep replacing the filter cartridge every month for continued good results. If the flow of water slows down, you can unplug the filter and rinse to clean it. 

*AquaTech Power Filter:*The filter is easy to maintain. 
It helps in capturing large amounts of dirt and dust. 
The filter removes toxins like ammonia and nitrate.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

i havent done another water change yet, considering i did one like 2 days ago. but if its necessary for me to do a water change i'll do it ...its very difficult considering where my tank is located etc.... i'm not removing anything out of my cartridge .....i'm just going to let that one go and i did add top fin betta water conditioner to the tank last night. 20ml and i'll do the entire api master test kit today when i wake up some more.... also my bio-fiber is not black but off white to a white color


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok i tested again wwitout doing anoter water test...i will eventually do one later today hopefully.... here are test results ammoinia .50-1.0 nitrite 0 nitrate 0 ph 7.6 ph high range 8.0


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

i gave him dried bloodworms this morning and an hour later started digging around having to remove them all they were floating around the top of tank still....im wondering why is he not eating?


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

can someone post a pic describing the body parts of the vt male betta so i can describe exactly where he has a white round circle at thanks


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## LittleBlueFishlets (Nov 10, 2012)

And this isn't a VT, but it has some other body areas which might be helpful:


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## Leon (Jul 2, 2012)

resa said:


> i have a 10 gallon tank, which is uncycled.... and in a little while i'll go check and see whats inside my filter (cartridge and such) for the record i'm using a aqua tech 5-15 model.......it came with a cartridge and bio-fiber and states bio-fiber should never be removed


I had that model of filter on my ten gallon for a long time, the bio-fiber does stay in the filter. That's a good starting off filter IMO  
I think I might've gotten some posts confused,sorry for the confusion about tank size and all that. I typically do a 10-20% water change on my 10gal every week, for your uncycled tank I'd say maybe do 30% of it every 2-3 days (since you have just the one betta in there?). Anyone else have input on that?
If you haven't got one and can get one, a gravel vacuum can make changing water a lot easier, as well as helping clean waste out of the gravel. They sell them at walmart for around $10.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

his dot is by the gill and operculum ....unfortunately i have to do an emergency move out so i will be donating him to oetsmart as well as bringing all my tank and supplies back...unless a blessing happens where i can keep him....i still havent done a water change due to the emergency my family is up against..will try to stay posted thank u all for ur help


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## osromatra (Jan 9, 2013)

If you have a store nearby, many will test your water for free for you. 

Hope you get everything sorted.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok the 10 gal tank was taken back for a reason. he was taken to petsmart to be tested for sickness he has ich and got some ich medicine made by api and petsmart tested water and the ammonia is high and they told us to feed him only once per week. thought id update this


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

ok I think my betta is about to die he is turning white and he's loosing his fins badddd he was being treated with api ick treatment and I don't know what went wrong i'll try to upload a pic


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

let me try again I cant remember how to upload pics on here http://s1308.beta.photobucket.com/user/resa83/library/Betta


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

never mind im crying over my fish bc he just died


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## Tikibirds (May 26, 2011)

you want to use the img code to add pics

edit

i'm sorry he died 



> he was taken to petsmart to be tested for sickness he has ich and got some ich medicine made by api and petsmart tested water and the ammonia is high and they told us to feed him only once per week. thought id update this


 IF you get another betta, never trust petsmart or petco as they usually have no idea what they are talking about. If the ammonia was high, the solution is to change the water and clean out the gravel. They should be feed 6 days a week with one day of fasting to help their digestive system.


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

well thank you every one for trying to help during the time I had him. he's the first thing I thought of when I woke up this morning. however I will not get another fish any time soon bc of zeek passing away :'( thanks though for all the help you guys provided and the knowledge


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

what i'd like to know is what caused him to lose 75% of his color in 2 days and almost all his fins were gone and since i'm not familiar with fish is it possible the color he was losing was scales being lost? and I just looked up on google bettas that had ich and I really don't think zeek had ich afterall. is it possible the ich medicine did this to him?


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

resa said:


> what i'd like to know is what caused him to lose 75% of his color in 2 days and almost all his fins were gone and since i'm not familiar with fish is it possible the color he was losing was scales being lost? and I just looked up on google bettas that had ich and I really don't think zeek had ich afterall. is it possible the ich medicine did this to him?


 what is the img code


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## resa (Dec 23, 2012)

that's what he looked like minutes before he died :'(


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