# starting an NPT



## aqua001 (Jan 13, 2012)

So, I am starting an NPT soon. (or hope to, anyway) I am a complete newbie when it comes to NPT'S so I need all the info I can get. OFL told me that once the tanks are mature(a 3 month process), I can remove the filter. Do you think I can just not use a filter at all? It will be a twenty gallon housing ten penguin tetras and 1 mystery snail (please tell me if they don't get along) and another school of tetras of some kind, though this school will only have 6 tetras. Can you cycle an NPT? All this NPT stuff is very confusing to me and I have like 5 million questions so all help is welcome. One thing I noticed with NPTs is that the only kind of decore they have is live plants. Is this another key point in NPTs? 

Thanks!


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## aqua001 (Jan 13, 2012)

I'm going to put in swords, water wisteria, corkscrew vallisneria and anubias (sp?). Do you think they will work well together? Should I get some ferts or will the waste from my fish be enough? Where will I get the dirt for my tank? I heard that you are supposed to put some sand on the sides and the dirt in the middle. Why? 

There's a few more questions to prove my point LOL.


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## Aus (Feb 3, 2012)

You can find out a lot more about NPT's by reading through OFL's threads - I learned a LOT by stalking her! :lol:

Okay, here's how I did my own NPT which is doing great - maybe I'll answer some questions as I go. 

1. Got some organic potting mix and river sand. Put dirt in, covered it with sand. Ratio: two parts dirt to one part sand, ie, 1 inch dirt. 1/2 inch sand. Left the edges free of dirt so it looked pretty through the glass. Pure cosmetics.

2. Added a few inches of dechlorinated water.


3. Planted 60-70% of the tank floor with fast growing plants and a few others. 

4. Added sponge filter. Filtration isn't necessary but I use it, keeps the water nice and avoids protein buildups. I choose to use it, some don't.

5. Filled tank with water, drained to get rid of cloudiness and refilled.. rinse, repeat until the water was clear.

6. Added betta. I'd make sure to keep stock at a minimum at first in case of ammonia spikes. A few small fish will help the tank cycle, too many all at once could be bad for the fish.

7. 50% water change twice a week for first few weeks to deal with ammonia leaking from the soil breakdown etc, then once a week and now a 25% change once a week. Testing the parameters regularly is a good idea.

8. Did a water change each time after replanting/uprooting things, to decrease nutrients in the water.

And that's about it. If your light is right for plants, and you take care of the tank while the dirt is maturing with water changes, etc, and also make sure to heavily plant the whole tank with stem plants then it'll probably go very smoothly.

You won't need ferts, the dirt and fish waste is enough. 

You can get the dirt online or from a gardening center, just make very sure it's free of added ferts and water retaining agents.


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## aqua001 (Jan 13, 2012)

Wait... a few INCHES of water only or can I put more water in as I go? What kind of light is best for plants? Is river sand just sand from the river? I've seen some members use play sand. Is this ok? Do you just cycle an NPT like you would cycle a normal tank? thanks


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## aqua001 (Jan 13, 2012)

Will this soil work?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Miracle-Gro-Potting-Mix/16880014


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## aqua001 (Jan 13, 2012)

I just found this sand. I think it is ok to use but I just want to make sure:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...Id=-1&keyword=sand&storeId=10051#.UCkcPo7gA_s


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## starrlamia (May 3, 2012)

you want organic miracle gro like this 
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Miracle-Gro-Organic-Choice-Potting-Mix/16879733
the sand should be fine


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## aqua001 (Jan 13, 2012)

Ok. What size should I get?


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## starrlamia (May 3, 2012)

Depends on the tank size. For my 20g long I got a medium sized bag, don't remember the weight but like 2ish feet by 1.5 feet and I've done my tank twice and have enough left for a third, it was about $6


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## aqua001 (Jan 13, 2012)

Okay. This is what I've understood in the making of an NPT. Please correct me if their are any misunderstandings. 
1. Get all the supplies.
2. Put sand on the sides of the tank and dirt in the middle. Should the sand and soil be packed or just loose?
3. Add the water(dechlorinated). How do I do this without sloshing the dirt and sand together or is it ok for them to be mixed?
4. Put the plants and heater in.
5. drained and drained again to get rid of cloudiness (like Aus said) Since I will be draining the water, is it ok to use plain tap water without dechlorinater?
6. Put the fish in. Should I put all 16 fish and 1 snail inside or just put a certain number? When do I put the fish in? If I need to cycle the tank, is it just like cycling a normal tank? If it is not, how do I do it?
7.What Aus posted above. I heard that OFL only changed her NPT twice a year!!! Will this be possible with a 20 gal or will I have to get a 55 gal like hers?


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## Aus (Feb 3, 2012)

1. Good call! Make sure you have lots of bunches of stem plants, enough to plant 60-70% of the tank floor. It's going to look very crowded, but you can actually replace a few of those plants once the soil matures in a few weeks.. for now, these are very necessary to keeping the water parameters good, absorbing nutrients from the soil, etc.

You will probably need to sift the Miracle Gro (make sure it's the organic one without water retention stuff in it..), as it has a LOT of chunky wood bits that aren't ideal, the soil is pretty great though, I've heard a lot of good stuff about it.

2. You don't need much sand on the sides, if you're concerned with how it looks (which is the only function of doing this) - just enough to hide the dirt. Try to pile more up the back than the front, for perspective. Whatever depth of soil you have, halve that in sand - don't go over two inches for soil, though.. 


3. It's better to keep the sand intact as a cap. I put a small plate in for these initial fillings, and dump the water on that so it doesn't mess up the sand too much. Don't panic if it mixes a little bit.

4. When I said 'a few inches of water' I meant fill it to this level for planting. Trying to plant stuff in a full tank is a giant PITA, as some plants are very buoyant. You might find some tweezers handy for planting smaller plants, just poke 'em in - much easier than fingers! 

Oh yeah, and don't turn the heater on yet. 


5. Nope. Plants will hate it. Use dechlorinated. 


6. I wait a couple days for everything to settle before including the fish. The tank will cylce on its own eventually, and the plants will start taking up ammonia once the soil is mature and they start the growth boom (you'll see what I mean in a few weeks..) -- prior to the soil adapting to aquatic conditions, you'll need to test the water regularly and make a couple of large water changes per week to deal with the ammonia and other stuff coming off the fish/soil.

Do NOT stock heavily at this point. Maybe six fish, max? I only have one fish and a few snails in my 10g and I still worried about excess nurtrients for a while..

So basically, treat it as an uncycled tank for a few weeks, test and test again, make lots of water changes. Once you see the ammonia/nitrites at 0 and the plants are growing like jiminy, you can be pretty sure it's safe to add the rest of the fish and start cutting back water changes to maybe one a week for a couple more weeks. 

7. I think it really depends on how much stock/what kind of plants/how many plants/adequate lighting for the plants --- you will need a test kit and monitor the tank yourself for ammonia/nitrates and so on, and make changes accordingly. 

I still filter (sponge filter, for a little water motion and extra beneficial bacteria) and do 25% water change weekly, though my soil is mature. That's my preference, probably not necessary but I feel better about doing it that way and it's no real effort.


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## aqua001 (Jan 13, 2012)

Aus, on step 4, you said not to turn the heater on yet. When should I turn the heater on? So the sand should be on top of the dirt? 

Sorry for the overload of questions but I just want to make sure I'm doing everything proper.


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## Aus (Feb 3, 2012)

It was a bit of a joke, as it was to do with the step concerning planting in a few inches of water ... don't want the heater blowing up, etc.

Yes, dirt on the bottom. Sand on top. Ratio 2:1, so 1 inch of dirt, 1/2 an inch of sand. Or 2 inches dirt, 1 inch sand. You don't really need to do more than that, and if you do, you could end up with a lot of anaerobic pockets (trapped, smelly, toxic gases rising off rotting organic matter).

Oh yeah -- I forgot. Once your water's in (and the heater's on :-D ) etc, get a normal bamboo skewer like the ones you make kebabs with and poke the soil once a week or so all over. This will aerate your soil and help release any nasty gas bubbles which could make your tank smelly and potentially toxic. 

Or get a handful of Malaysian Trumpet Snails - they'll burrow all through your soil and aerate it for you.

You can turn the heater on as soon as you've finished the initial fill/empty/repeat stage and your water's nice and clear.


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## aqua001 (Jan 13, 2012)

Cool. Thanks!I think I finally know how to start an NPT!! I just thought of the most wonderful idea in my swim lesson: since I couldn't find an ideal kind of tetra to go with my penguins I would put 6 female bettas in and start a sority!!!!!!!! Is this possible? I really hope it is!


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## starrlamia (May 3, 2012)

Depends on how big your tank is, I suggest reading up on sororities as they can be difficult.


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## Aus (Feb 3, 2012)

+1^ starrlamia

Please do the research. Even female bettas can rip fins off a tankmate and many do so, happily. You may end up with six female fish who all need to be housed separately and possibly need medical help with injuries - how will you deal with that situation, if it arises? 

Also, do be careful of overstocking. Adding just a few fish at a time and monitoring it carefully will ensure you're not throwing the tank out of balance.


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