# New Betta Owner Concerns



## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

I mentioned to my girlfriend that I wanted a fish for Christmas, and I thought she'd think I was joking but yesterday she decided to give me my present early and lo and behold it was a stunning navy betta fish. I am very excited but after reading a lot of articles and forums (including this one) I've figured out that I don't have the necessary materials for the betta to be completely happy. 

My girlfriend bought the betta fish with a 1 gallon bowl, an artificial plant, a spongebob pineapple house thingy, colored gravel, Topfin betta water cond., Topfin betta pellets, and fish flakes.

I tried feeding him for the first time last night to no avail, it didn't so much as touch the 2 pellets or single fish flake I put in. I took these out in the morning and put 3 pellets in and Thunder (that's him) still didn't touch them. *This is my main concern, any suggestions to jumpstart his appetite?*

He hardly moves at all unless I put my finger in front of him or a mirror up to the bowl at which point he swims around pretty rapidly or sometimes retreats slowly. I've read that betta fish are usually active but he's just not. He hovers around the top of the bowl and moves _very_ rarely. *Is it possible that he just isn't as active as other bettas have been known to be?*

I make sure the water hovers around 80 degrees and I made sure to put the correct amount of water treatment for one gallon. *Any ideas as to why he's so inactive?* I've read that when put into a new environment they can become "depressed" and/or stressed. 

From what I've read online, I would assume he was sick if I hadn't only had him for _one day. *How have your bettas acted when first put into a new home?*

Notes:
1. He flares up and really shows off his fins when he sees himself in the mirror and he occasionally spreads his fins out while staying still
2. I have no way to test the PH of the water.
3. He's in my bedroom, my house is kept at a constant 77 degrees but my room is warmer with my space heater and the water has stayed around 80 + or - .5 degrees.
4. He's breathing steadily judging by his gill movement
5. There is no obvious discoloration from how he looked when I got him
6. I know a LOT of people disagree with Betas in bowls and I will be upgrading to at least a 2.5 gallon as soon as possible.

I know this all may be normal but I just wouldn't want to get off on the wrong foot with my new companion and I certainly wouldn't want to ruin his health in a matter of days even if that means changing the water out each day or eating his fish food to make sure it tastes good :lol:

Thanks
-Greg_


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## Kithy (Nov 21, 2012)

Don't worry too much about him not eating. He's likely just stressed out.

Give him a couple of days to warm up to being in a new home.

How did you acclimate him? Slowly or just dumped him in?

If you live near a Petco or Petsmart, I know that they will check your water for free if you bring in a small sample.

http://www.petco.com/product/12351/Aqueon-Aquarium-Mini-Bow-25-Gallon-Acrylic-Aquarium-Kit.aspx
This is a good deal, take out the divider of course.

http://www.petco.com/product/114078/Tetra-Submersible-Aquarium-Heaters.aspx
I have a large one of these in my 55gal and it does a good job.

Good luck  He'll be okay, just keep him warm. If he doesn't eat the food, take it out after five minutes. In the one gal you're doing to need to do changes pretty frequently.


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## LittleBettaFish (Oct 2, 2010)

Okay, first things first, he is probably settling into his new home, hence the poor appetite and inactivity. It is not uncommon for new fish not to eat for a few days after being brought home. 

You really need a liquid water test. pH is not really important. Fish store employees will tell you it is the be all and end all of water testing but it is not. 

Ammonia is what is important. This is toxic to your fish at very low levels and is invisible. So while your water may look and smell clean, it could actually be very harmful to your betta. In a 1 gallon tank, ammonia can build up surprisingly fast. This is why you want to have your own test kit so you can make sure that whenever it reaches above 0ppm (even 0.25ppm is too high) you know to do a water change to bring it back down. 

Prolonged exposure to poor water conditions causes stress, increases the risk of your betta becoming sick and can drastically shorten his lifespan. This is why it is so important to read up and be familiar with at least the basics of the nitrogen cycle, in particular the dangers of things such as ammonia and nitrite (you won't have to deal with this in an uncycled tank such as yours). 

The reason you want to get a heater is not just to keep the water warm, but to ensure that it is consistently warm 24 hours of the day. Temperature fluctuations are what you want to avoid and in a 1 gallon bowl they can be quite rapid. While a healthy betta may be able to handle small changes in water temperature, if your betta is not particularly healthy, or the swings in temperature are quite drastic, it can create problems and usually leads to outbreaks of disease such as ich and velvet. Both of which are a headache to get rid of. 

Hope that helps some. Sounds like you are doing the right thing by coming here first.


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## majesticstorm (Dec 8, 2012)

Well, he's probably adjusting to his new environment, give him some time.  I think it depends on the fish. When I put Rain into his new 5.5 gallon tank, his color got a a bit more vibrant. At first he would float around the top of the tank, but after a while he swam around to explore his new home. He didn't have any problems eating.

You could not feed him for a few days and then offer the food to him again. They can go a few days without food, so don't worry about starving him. I heard something about soaking the pellets in garlic juice to make it more appealing to the fish. I personally use New Life Spectrum betta formula, which has garlic already in the pellets. It's a really good brand, with great ingredients, in case you wanted to try something different.


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

I believe I dumped some of the water I prepared into his prison cell of a cup that I got him in then after several minutes I scooped him up and into the bowl. I probably should've let him warm up to it for a bit longer first off. I appreciate the fast responses, I'm glad that it seems normal for him to not be moving around or eating too much just yet. I'll be sure to post again with any other issues or just an update if he starts moving a lot or eating.


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## Blue Fish (Jun 11, 2012)

It's been pretty well covered, but in addition, the food can make a big difference. Once I switched over to the New Life Spectrum, my guys turned up their noses at *anything* else, and they'll even prefer the pellets to freeze dried blood worms. 

The NLS seems to be the tastiest to them, so maybe try switching out his food. Also, make sure he's not eating from the bottom (not that it's a bad thing, but it can freak you out until you realize what's happening). I have one in particular who will *only* eat from the bottom. He waits for the food to sink, then cruises down and vacuumns it up. I can drop it in directly in front of his face, and he still waits for it to drop before eating. 

I freaked out for the first month I had him thinking he was going to starve himself to death (He was an awful rescue, his ammonia poisioning was so bad his body scales were sloughing off and his water was *yellow*, so I was afraid he'd die anyway...and then I thought he wasn't eating...ugh.) until I realized that the next morning there were fewer pellets in the bottom of the bowl than there had been the night before...  (Due to his poor condition, his first home was a wide, shallow bowl so that he could easily reach the surface.)

Good luck to you!!

Oh, and they can go up to a month, even slightly longer without food. He can go quite a bit before you really have to get worried.


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

I went to play with Thunder a bit more and he bolted away from my finger as usual and a little chunk fell down from him. Upon further inspection I found it was feces, I literally scared the poop out of him. Will leaving it in there affect him at all? Is it just a natural part of the water's cycle to leave it?


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## Kithy (Nov 21, 2012)

gregwegmann said:


> I went to play with Thunder a bit more and he bolted away from my finger as usual and a little chunk fell down from him. Upon further inspection I found it was feces, I literally scared the poop out of him. Will leaving it in there affect him at all? Is it just a natural part of the water's cycle to leave it?


In a larger tank it would be what feeds your bacteria. It isn't going to hurt anything but you'll want to siphon it out with a small air tubing or something when you do your water changes. For awhile I was taking goldfish waste everyday @[email protected] But I'm obsessive lol Pooping is good though!


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## ANHEL123 (Jul 21, 2010)

It common for betta do not eat when you just bring them from the store but it worries me when they are not active. When you bring betta from the store they are kind of skittish. But they will not hide behind the plant or lay on the bottom , or hand in one comer on the top if they are healthy. So watch him try to give him food , scoop it out if he don't eat it.

One suggestion abut water change. It will be easier for you. If you have him in the room temperature use aged water to change him. When you change betta you need to make sure new water approximately the same temperature as him so you don't shock him with drastic temp change. So if you use aged water it will be the same temp as his water. Just take one gall jug. You can take it from he spring water put water conditioner in the water and let it sit for about 12-24 hrs. Do not cover with a lid. 
How his poo looking is it brown color? Not white or clear stringy,wormy looking?
You saying that he swims around pretty rapidly, make sure he is not darting around like crazy or trying to rub his body on objects. 
You can do 1-50 and 1-100% water changes a week , even better i would suggest 2x50% and 1-100% water changes a week. Keep eye on him if there is any changes in his behavior or any new visual symptoms on his body let us know.

Also just in case i would buy aquarium salt at the pet store in case you need to use it. Aquarium salt will help as first aid if he is sick. 

Also i would wait until you make sure he is not sick before you upgrading his tank. And i think if he will continue to be not active then i would be really concern if he is sick.


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## LittleBlueFishlets (Nov 10, 2012)

gregwegmann said:


> I went to play with Thunder a bit more and he bolted away from my finger as usual and a little chunk fell down from him. Upon further inspection I found it was feces, I literally scared the poop out of him. Will leaving it in there affect him at all? Is it just a natural part of the water's cycle to leave it?


Since you have a small tank with artificial plants, there won't be a 'cycle' in your tank. There are no live plants or a filter, so waste will remain in the tank until it's removed. 

I use a turkey baster to remove feces (and other visible debris) in between water changes. I got it for $1 at Dollar Tree.


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## AyalaCookiejar (Nov 20, 2012)

Some take awhile to warm up and they all do so differently. It sounds like you didn't acclimate him very slowly so he may be a little shocked...

When I first got my CT Bahari, he flared at everything. Literally. He calmed down after 3 or 4 days, though, after getting used to his surroundings.


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## Leo237 (Dec 25, 2012)

*Help!*

I need a little help, I got a beautiful male betta for Christmas and he isn't eating at all, also I don't know how often you clean out a filtered tank, lastly how do you use the conditioner thing?pleas help I don't want him to die.:|


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## Leo237 (Dec 25, 2012)

*Help me!*

I need a little help, I got a beautiful male betta for Christmas and he isn't eating at all, also I don't know how often you clean out a filtered tank, lastly how do you use the conditioner thing?pleas help I don't want him to die.:|


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

What size is your tank, how long has it been set up, what filter is being used and what conditioner are you using?


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

Just an update, Thunder has moved a little more. When I say a little I mean _very little. When I turned the light on this morning he began swimming around the bowl then progressively got slower until he was sitting there just like yesterday and the day before. 

He hasn't eaten the offered pellets and flakes. I found a live earwig and put it in the bowl with him to see if some sort of live food would spark him to no avail. I'm going to start putting food in his bowl once a day until he decides to eat at which point I'll feed him in moderation twice a day._


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## shinitakin (Nov 12, 2012)

When I first got my betta, he wouldn't eat and refused to eat until 17 days after I got him. I'm not sure if you've tried this trick yet, but some people say that garlic really sparks their appetite, so you could take a few pellets and let them soak in garlic juice for a bit and then try to feed them to Thunder.


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

A grey color has begun to spread up my Betta's back fin. It is a blue betta so it may be that unknown disease covered by a sticky on this forum. I know this isn't normal. I can't get any aquarium salt. Should I make a new batch of water for him immediately? his is looking kind of murky. What else can I do?


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## Mirage23 (Dec 24, 2012)

When I first got my Betta fish ( his name is Narcissus) he refused to eat and he was not active at all. I was afraid I bought a sick fish. After a couple days he was comfortable and ate his food! He swam around and I actually played with him. So he's just settling in like everyone is saying. Also I would suggest live plants. I don't have any artificial plants in my tank all of them are live. They help clean out the water and oxygenate the water for your fish. I have a bigger tank than you and I also have moss in it. It keeps nitrite levels low and feeds off your bettas feces. Narcissus loves his home now that he's comfortable and even recognizes me now! I'm sure your betta will too. Just give him time


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

The caudal fin is the one greying. It seems to have stopped halfway. I'm also noticing spots forming only on the affected fin. I've changed the water and will monitor the temperature. I hope it's not serious and that he makes it through the night


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## MSG (May 8, 2012)

Get a bright desk lamp, cup the fish & photograph it. 

The only way anyone can give you proper advice is with a clear photo. 

It could be perfectly normal, but can't tell from just words.

Photo also makes it easier to monitor the progress if it's spreading fast.


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## LittleBlueFishlets (Nov 10, 2012)

gregwegmann said:


> A grey color has begun to spread up my Betta's back fin. It is a blue betta so it may be that unknown disease covered by a sticky on this forum. I know this isn't normal. I can't get any aquarium salt. Should I make a new batch of water for him immediately? his is looking kind of murky. What else can I do?


Can you post a picture? It would be really helpful.

I may have had a fish with the 'mystery disease' (which was recently identified as a type of Mycobacteria.) His fins turned gray and were clamped. The progression was rapid.... His water was NOT murky, however.

When was your last water change? (I know he's new, but I don't know exactly when you got him.)

Also, what's in the tank with him? Could there be a decoration or something that's affecting the water quality?

Personally, I'd do a 100% water change. There's never anything wrong with clean, warm water. 

Acclimate him VERY slowly afterwards by floating his cup in the new water until the temp inside and outside is the same.... Then add a SMALL amount of new tank water to his cup.... Wait awhile, then remove a small amount of water from the cup, and add a small amount water from the tank... etc. Go slow with this, as he's already stressed.... Eventually, when the water in his cup is mostly new water (and the murky stuff is gone), you can release him back into the tank.


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## LittleBlueFishlets (Nov 10, 2012)

Nevermind... I see you've already done the water change.  

As MSG suggested, a picture would be really helpful.


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

I actually can't post a picture at the minute. I've checked on him and there has been no advancement of the grayness. I turned out the lights in my room and have been on my computer. When I put the light from my phone up to his tank he started swimming around. From everything I've read, being lethargic is a major symptom of most sicknesses. 

The water change made a _huge_ difference in the visibility so I believe stress may have caused him to become flushed but I will certainly monitor him. It's crazy how attached I've become to him since getting him just two days ago. I felt tears coming when I thought of what would happen if he died.


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

This morning, Thunder seems to be more active than days past. The grayness is still halfway up his fin but he's responsive to my finger as usual. He didn't eat. I've also noticed that he doesn't respond to the mirror anymore he just swims away rapidly, maybe he's trying to show off his swimming strength but I don't know. I also like to think that he was smart enough to figure out that it was him


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## ANHEL123 (Jul 21, 2010)

is he swimming around or he just laying on the bottom of the tank, or just hiding, or just hanging on the top? Is is looks like he is darting ?
When you did 100% water changes did you introduce him to the water slowly? It important to introduce fish slowly so he can get used to the new water temperature or you will shock him with the difference and he might get stressed.


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

He moves every so often sometimes high in the water sometimes low. This is a great improvement over the first 2 days of just sitting there and not moving without a stimulus. He doesn't dart around unless I put my finger up to the bowl (which he did in his Petco cup). I made sure to acclimate him properly this time. I guess he's warming up a little. I'm on track to getting him a proper tank, heater, and filter but for now there's not much I can do for the temperature except keep my room at a steady temperature with my space heater.


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## ANHEL123 (Jul 21, 2010)

76-80* is good temperature . And you wrote that the temperature in your house is 77* so he is fine. Can you get stress coat API? Why can't you get aquarium salt? I would recommend to do daily water changes with stress coat or every other day and see if he will get better if not i would do aquarium salt.
Aquarium salt will help balance his electrolyte level and encourage the production of slime coat,which will in turn help protect him from infection.
The same with stress coat it helps to protect slime coat and protect from infections


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

I have some Tetra Aquasafe liquid that promotes slime coat. But there's a problem because I'm using a 1 gallon bowl and it says to use 1 _teaspoon_ for every _ten_ gallons. How much do I need to put in? Like a drop?


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## LittleBettaFish (Oct 2, 2010)

Well 1 teaspoon is roughly 5ml, so you will probably need about .5ml of water conditioner to every gallon of water. 

I use the 1ml syringes to add in my water conditioner as I only need around .25ml a bucket.


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

I'm just going to wait until I do another water change because I don't think it'd be good to introduce Thunder to another conditioner while he's swimming in the other one.


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## LittleBlueFishlets (Nov 10, 2012)

LittleBettaFish said:


> Well 1 teaspoon is roughly 5ml, so you will probably need about .5ml of water conditioner to every gallon of water.
> 
> I use the 1ml syringes to add in my water conditioner as I only need around .25ml a bucket.


You could add about 10 drops of conditioner in every gallon of water.
_
(There are about 20 drops in 1 mL. This can vary a little depending on the liquid, but I tested this using my conditioner and it was pretty close.... My conditioner also says to add 5mL per 10 gallons, which is the same as 1 tsp per 10 gallons..... I've been using 10 drops per gallon for about 4 months now, and haven't had any issues with it.) _


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

I'm noticing a trend with all of the tanks I've been looking at. If they have a top there's usually a filter but no built in heater and therefore nowhere to put the cord for a heater. If there's no top there's obviously. space for a heater cord but no filter so you have to buy one in addition to the tank. The money's not an issue I'd just like to have a filter already built in. Do heaters with their cords work with tanks with filters built into their tops? It seems like running the cord under the top would cause it to be askew.


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## Melodica (Dec 2, 2012)

Usually there's a cut out for the filter. I just run the cord for the heater through that hole and it works fine. My tanks were all kits that included the tank, filter and cover.


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## Kithy (Nov 21, 2012)

All three of my covers and even my glass one to some extent had places that could be cut out for filters or cords. The glass one had a small plastic thing that fit on the edge of it. I can get a pic of you're curious. It was kind of a pain to get right.


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

If a picture's not too much trouble I'd appreciate it. Most pictures seem to hide the filter so I can't really see whether there's space for a cord or not.


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## finnfinnfriend (Feb 3, 2012)

LittleBettaFish said:


> Okay, first things first, he is probably settling into his new home, hence the poor appetite and inactivity. It is not uncommon for new fish not to eat for a few days after being brought home.
> 
> You really need a liquid water test. pH is not really important. Fish store employees will tell you it is the be all and end all of water testing but it is not.
> 
> ...


What is considered a drastic change in temperature?


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## Kithy (Nov 21, 2012)

Grabbed a couple of pictures for you of both my covers.









This is the glass cover with the silly plastic piece. I had to cut parts out for my filters to fit. The glass slides into a slit on the plastic piece there.









Here is another view of it.









How it looks. I've had that light strip since I got my 10 gallon so it doesn't go along the whole tank but it's enough light.









Here is an opening from the Aquean cover. You can see the jagged edges where it was cut out. There were perforations to cut it out.









And here it is around my filter.

Hope these helped


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## SolomonFinch (Dec 22, 2012)

http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/treatment/a/saltiinfresh.htm

The above is a great link. 
Also, allow me to quote chichlid forum.com (this is only to address inaccessibility to aquarium salt):Salt:

Salt is frequently recommended for treating a myriad of fish diseases, especially those involving external protozoa and fungi.

What kind of salt? We are not talking about “marine salt” or “cichlid salt” (both of which typically contain a blend of mineral salts and trace elements specially formulated for aquarium use to simulate ocean or rift lake water chemistry). You want sodium chloride (NaCl). “Aquarium salt” is the most widely used form because it does not contain the iodine or anti-caking agents that table salt does. I will say, however, that several credible sources assert that the minute amount of additives in table salt are harmless. Robert T. Ricketts, writing for AquaSource online magazine, puts it best with “any water-living vertebrate would be pickled in brine well before toxic concentrations of iodine could be reached.” Still, others offer strong warnings about the dangers of iodine and prussiate of soda (an anti-caking agent) and suggest “canning salt” as a cheaper alternative to aquarium salt. Make your own choice, but since I’ve heard only warnings and no actual accounts of fish death by table salt, I assume it’s most likely the ‘better safe than sorry’ principle at work here. “Sea salt” is another option, and is generally available in nutrition stores because it is considered a more “natural” form of salt. It does not contain iodine, but may have anti-caking agents. I have used it in my aquariums without incident.
"
The above can be found 
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php

again, i am only addressing your one statement. however, BOTH links have TONS of info you may find invaluable.
Best of Luck!


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

Thanks for the pics Kithy that looks really creative! And Solomon I've learned several new things from those links already. I'm going to put some sea salt in his new water, it specifically says "no iodide" which I've figured out is one of the worst things there can be in it.


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

Just an update, he still hasn't touched any food, he's moved around a lot more. He swims for quick bursts sometimes then others he kind of floats lazily along. He doesn't seem to be scratching on anything so that's okay. He's lost about half of his tail fin and his eyes seemed to be bulging yesterday. I did a 100% water change with some aquarium salt and the special tetrasafe conditioner. His eyes aren't bulging at all anymore. I'm assuming I should only add salt when I do water changes. Should I add any with 50% water changes?


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## ANHEL123 (Jul 21, 2010)

How often you do his water change? Yes you need to do 50% and 100% or even 2x50% along with 100% water changes but when you treating with aquarium salt you really need to do daily water changes. And i would increase dose up to 3 tsp/gall. When you use salt it really important to do it right way or it not going to help.
Bulging eye might be pop eye and usually need epsom salt, but if you saying he is better then continue aquarium salt because i think he has some kind bacterial infection going one. 
Do not afraid to use 3 tsp/gall i think that what you little guy need. He definitely has a few thing going on with him and need to be treated. 

And yes you need to add salt every time when you change the water.


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## sunlight (Apr 24, 2012)

+1


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

Here is a picture of my poor Thunder. I know it's low res but I hope you can see everything you need to. The color's obviously poor, his fins are half as long as they were when I first got him, his eyes (which aren't visible in this picture) are inflamed and red, his gills are red. I've given him 50% water changes for two days then a 100% on the third with treatments of aquarium salt. I think I started treating him too late because there's been no improvement in a week. He also still hasn't eaten. Should I continue treatment? Is there any hope for him?


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## ANHEL123 (Jul 21, 2010)

Oh so sorry, he does not look good at all.Continue salt and daily 100% water changes with betta acclimation. Can you buy medications?


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

Oh my.. I would skip the aquarium salt and go straight to antibiotics with this one. He looks like he's headed for body rot if he hasn't gotten there already.

Go to yellowpages.com and search for 'pet' and 'aquarium' - separate searches. Find everything in your area (or surrounding areas if you can drive) that would sell things for aquariums. Call and try to find a store that will sell you Seachem Kanaplex. If you absolutely cannot find it look for Maracyn Plus. You should be able to find that at least but if you can't look for Furan 2. I can help you dose when I know more info.

I'm trying to sort through your thread but I'm not seeing much info on how you are keeping him.. Please fill this out as best you can: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=49233 I know he's in a 1 gallon and you're treating with aq.. how much.. 1 tsp per gallon? Sorry I'm trying to read through your thread quickly as I need to leave the house soon.. What conditioner are you using and how much are you dosing?

Here's how to do water changes without shocking:



> To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.


ETA: You're not.. pouring salt in the tank right? You're measuring out just 1 tsp and dissolving it fully in a cup with a little of his tank water before pouring it in.. fully dissolved.. right? And you don't have to keep adding.. you only add more when you make a water change..


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

Housing 
What size is your tank? 1 Gallon
What temperature is your tank? 78 (lower than usual)
Does your tank have a filter? No
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration? Yes?
Is your tank heated? No
What tank mates does your betta fish live with? None

Food
What type of food do you feed your betta fish? Pellets and flakes (none have been eaten
How often do you feed your betta fish? Mornings

Maintenance 
How often do you perform a water change? Every day
What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change? 50 and 100 alternating (since he became sick)
What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change? TopFin water conditioner

Water Parameters:
Have you tested your water? If so, what are the following parameters? N/A

Ammonia:
Nitrite:
Nitrate:
pH:
Hardness:
Alkalinity: 

Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed? His colors have faded, his fins are half gone, his eyes are bulging and red, his gills are turning red.
How has your betta fish's behavior changed? He never swam around much or even ate.
When did you start noticing the symptoms? About a week ago
Have you started treating your fish? If so, how? Yes, aquarium salt every water change
Does your fish have any history of being ill? N/A
How old is your fish (approximately)? N/A


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

I pre-dissolve the salt


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

Sounds like you're doing everything right.. just be careful about acclimating with so many large changes. 

He must just have had a really advanced infection when you got him. 

Find antibiotics.. if he looks like that a week on AQ it's not going to help him.


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## ANHEL123 (Jul 21, 2010)

I am wondering while greg don't have medication he might use Epsom salt until he get medications. Epsom salt is also antibacterial and very mild. Epsom salt you can get at any pharmacy. I am not sure if he will make it though. But he still alive ....


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## sunlight (Apr 24, 2012)

poor thing i thing it all together that he was sick to begin with and lost of nutritient. Usually if you do aquarium salt you need to finish minimum course of 10 days. But not sure why he got worse. I think Epsom salt might be good idea until greg can get medications. Do daily water changes.
But also this one i am not sure though i would go and check your water checked for ammonia. I hope your fish will get better but if he will die don't blame your self. It not that you didn't treat him you trying your best. But go to the pet store and check you water just in case before you get another fish.


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## callistra (Jun 29, 2010)

Not true you have to finish 10 days. You can stop at any time, especially if you're switching to antibiotics.

I don't think epsom salts will help that.. I probably wouldn't bother unless there's no way you can get meds for days for some reason.. in that case it couldn't hurt.. I'd start small if you wanted to do that.. 1/4 tsp per gallon, predissolved like the aq. It must be pure 100% magnesium sulfate with no additives per the ingredients label. You can increase it slowly up to 1 tsp over an hour.. I wouldn't do any more than that. He's not bloated.


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## sunlight (Apr 24, 2012)

greg how much salt you been adding ? You adding salt since you have him for about 7 days? I was wondering if may be increasing the dosage up to 3 tsp good idea. Since you don't have medication on hands. I think it worse to try. What do you think callistra?


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## FishFriend9292 (Oct 14, 2012)

To get him to eat, soak the pellets in garlic juice.


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## AyalaCookiejar (Nov 20, 2012)

Personally, I don't think 3tsps per gallon would hurt (of epsom salt) but like Callistra said, it probably won't help, much.
ES is very mild and can actually be used for longer than ten days but I wouldn't recommend using 3tsps per gallon long-term.


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## sunlight (Apr 24, 2012)

i think greg was using aq salt for about 5 days or so and i didn't understand what was the dosage of the aquarium salt. If the dose of aq salt was less than recommended it can be the reason that it didn't help. Whatever he has it severe and like callistra said needs aggressive treatment of medications. But if there is no medications i think salt is good for now. But again i didn't understand what was the dose of the aq salt.


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## AyalaCookiejar (Nov 20, 2012)

AQ salt is the same: up to 3tsps per gallon. However AQ salt cannot be used long-term.


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## ANHEL123 (Jul 21, 2010)

Hey greg how is Thunder?


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## gregwegmann (Dec 24, 2012)

Sorry I haven't been on in a few days. My computer's been down. I've been trying to track down antibiotics/epsom salt. I have to stick with aq for now at 1tsp/gallon with water changes. His condition doesn't seem to have worsened at all. He swims around as if nothing's wrong.


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## ANHEL123 (Jul 21, 2010)

How long you using aquarium salt? You can use aq salt no longer than 14 days. Is he eating at all?If salt helps him i would increase it up to 2 tsp/gall. Do you do daily water changes?How is his eyes and gills? You wrote at your previous thread that eye and gills are inflamed.


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