# Sticky  Oldfishlady water change recommendations



## Oldfishlady

Lots of different ways to successfully keep this species-

Based on the experiments I have conducted over the years-I have found that water quality can be maintained by these water change schedules. This is based on feeding quality foods and not overfeeding-since most water quality problems are due to poor quality foods and overfeeding more than byproducts produced by the Betta.

You don't want to base water change needs on water test ALONE-The test result can be helpful too, however, we don't test for the DOC's (_dissolved organic compounds_) that also build up that can be problematic.

All tanks need at least weekly-to-twice weekly water changes and water changes based on water prams of-Ammonia, nitrite 0.25ppm or greater and Nitrate of 40ppm or greater-It is best to keep nitrate under 20ppm.

If using plants fert-make water change-then add the ferts so you will remove any unused ferts so the algae can't to help prevent algae problems. With that said, some species of algae can be good and a sign of a healthy system, however, the aquarium is still a closed system and manual removal will still be needed on occasion.

Remember-some products/additives used in the tank can cause skewed test results. Have a base line with your source water with and without these products so you don't make unneeded water changes based on skewed results.

Tanks:
1-4gal without a filter or live plants
Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-100%

1-4gal with a filter
Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-50% with substrate cleaning by vacuum or stir and dip method.
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.

1-4gal with/without filter and with live plants-
This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes.

5-9gal without a filter
Once weekly 50% with vacuum-with 90-100% monthly

5-9gal with a filter
Weekly 50% with vacuum
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.

5-9gal with/without filter and with live plants
This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes.

10+gal without a filter
Once weekly 50% with vacuum and 90-100% as needed based on stocking

10+gal with a filter
Weekly 50% with vacuum
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.


10+gal with/without filter and with live plants
This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes.

You want to vacuum in all areas you can reach without moving anything or disruption of plant roots. It is best not to move decorations around-but if you need to or you want to change things around-Be sure and vacuum well under items-you may or may not need to make 2 back to back water changes in order to get the excess mulm/debris buildup under items.
If you do-don't clean the filter media or clean the non-viewing walls-especially in cycled tanks to prevent min-cycle/spikes.

When you vacuum-Unplug both the filter and heater-Then plunge the vacuum deep into the substrate and as the mulm/debris clear in a second or two-move and repeat.
You will not get all the mulm/debris and this is okay-Once you refill with like temp dechlorinated water and turn the filter back on the water should clear within the hour-even without a filter the water should clear. If not, you either missed a water change, over feeding or overstocked.

It is best to leave the Betta in the tank with partial water changes.
When making 100% water changes and you cup the Betta-be sure and properly acclimate back to the new chemistry like you do with a new Betta-By adding small amounts of the new tank water to the holding container over 10-15min or to tolerance-Net and add to the tank without adding the holding containers water.
Be sure and have some extra dechlorinated water on hand to use for top offs if needed.

Too clean can sometimes be as bad as too dirty-We all know what too dirty can do-but too clean and too many water changes especially 100% water changes can be stressful, disrupt the balance of the good and bad bacteria/pathogens and antibody development. Its hard for life to be maintained in too clean and sterile conditions.

I am not saying to not make water changes-what I am saying is that this species doesn't produce the amount of byproduct that you think and removal of all the organics in the tank too often can disrupt the balance and by removing all the bad you are removing the good that helps to keep the bad controlled.....Balance.....

Remember-to always wash hand well before and after working on your tank/Betta. And to unplug both the heater and filter...Safety for both you and your wet-pet.....​


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## MaisyDawgThirteen

Niec job!


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## crowntaillove

This is very helpful! Thank you. Based on your recommendations, I'm changing the water way too often. I need to learn to relax a little. :]


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## finnfinnfriend

Thank you so much! You are my hero!


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## Gryphon

Awesome! Thank you for taking the time to type that all out. It's nice to have it all in one place! :yourock:


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## katydidmischief

Thank you for posting this, OFL!


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## misty1477

Thanks OFL....this is a great sticky....especially for new betta owners browsing the forum


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## Gen2387

That's a great thread. Glad to know I was already doing the right thing but this will help a lot of people that are new to betta keeping!


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## Freyja

This is a great sticky considering all the unreliable information there is out there, i.e. you only need to do 25% water changes once a month :roll:.


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## BettaQi

Thanks as always OFL!


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## nel3

very good sticky OFL. it seems like i do water changes a bit more frequently than that in your post. is my water too clean? i do 1 50%wc weekly gravel vac on the 5g cycled. the 3.4gkks and 2.5 get 100wc every 6-7 days and 4-5 days respectively. the sub 5g tanks are IAL water and ive never had much luck keeping IAL water ph levels the same with 50WCs. after the 7 or 5 days the waste is noticalble when the water is removed.


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## asukabetta

Thanks!!!


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## NormaCarts

Hello,

Can you tell me when adding the new water to the tank (based on a 54l tank with a filter) what should be added if anything to the new water going back into the tank?


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## Oldfishlady

NormaCarts said:


> Hello,
> 
> Can you tell me when adding the new water to the tank (based on a 54l tank with a filter) what should be added if anything to the new water going back into the tank?


Dechlorinator


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## NormaCarts

Thank you I did think so but thought I best check


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## Greylady

Thanks OFL! As always, tons of great info! I have learned so much from you. 

I was wondering... I've learned that in a cycled tank, one type of good bacteria will "eat" the ammonia and release nitrites, and a second type of good bacteria will "eat" the nitrites and release nitrates. I also know that if these are not available the good bacteria can starve and you will lose your cycle. If this is correct, my question is, how do I know if my tank is producing enough ammonia / nitrites to keep the good bacteria strong? I have live plants which I know will use up some of the ammonia and only one betta, 2 ghost shrimp and some MTS. If I test for ammonia and it's 0 as it should be, how does the bacteria "feed" to produce nitites and then nitrates?

Also I'm still a little confused about using Prime, which I use for my wc's. I know Prime does not really "remove" ammonia but changes it to a non toxic form called ammonium, however this ammonium may still show up on my API Master test kit as ammonia. The water straight from my tap shows .25 ammonia. So when using Prime, how do I know if the ammonia registering on the test after a water change is ammonia or ammonium? Do I need another type of test kit to know if there really is ammonia in the tank?

Also, if Prime only neutralizes the ammonia for 24-48 hours, does that mean that 2 days after my partial water change the ammonium changes back to ammonia? And if so, do I then need to test again and possibly use prime again? And if so, if I keep changing the ammonia to ammonium using the prime, where will the ammonia the good bacteria need to survive come from? Or does the good bacteria also eat ammonium? It seems like such a vicious cycle and I seem to keep confusing myself! Lol

I hope this is OK to ask these questions on this thread, if not, would a moderator please move it to the correct place? Thanks so much.


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## Oldfishlady

Both the BB and plants will/can use the ammonium-the prime neutralizes the ammonia to make it safe for the livestock.

Our testing products only test at a ppm level and you will always have some ammonia and other byproducts in the tank to support the BB.

Generally, what we look for to tell us cycling stage/completeness is the nitrate reading, however, with some species, numbers and growth state of live plants-it can take a long time if ever to see the nitrate reading we generally look for-The cycle is still happening-its silent...

Once you have an established nitrogen cycle/bio-filter any ammonia/ammonium should be taken care of fairly quickly by the bio-filter and since you have live plants-they are taking care of things too.

One of the best water testers IMO/E...Is the fish along with the power of observation-By understanding normal behaviors-we will be able to spot abnormal behaviors quickly so to intervene-Regardless of water test results-when you have abnormal behaviors-the treatment will be the same....Water change.......and by waiting on test results- it might be too late...Test the water-but make the water change while waiting on the results-that is what you will do anyway when you have skewed results....


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## Greylady

OK cool, thanks so much!


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## sareena79

so if I have a 2 gallon, unfiltered with ONE plant (roots only in water, leaves above surface) and I do a 100% water change every monday is that ok???


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## Oldfishlady

sareena79 said:


> so if I have a 2 gallon, unfiltered with ONE plant (roots only in water, leaves above surface) and I do a 100% water change every monday is that ok???


Is this a bamboo plant...if so, yes, however, I would add a 50% water only mid week along with the 90-100% you are doing-unless the plant is growing really good-Then a 1-2 time weekly 50% would be all that is needed....but it need to be growing really good and you see new growth on the plant at least weekly.

Bamboo, peace lily, ivy and what I like to use-cuttings from my weeping willow tree to root out-can help maintain water quality and use excessive nutrients in the water column to help prevent algae problems-But the key word being.._active growth_-otherwise they can become part of the water quality problem.


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## sareena79

Oldfishlady said:


> Is this a bamboo plant...if so, yes, however, I would add a 50% water only mid week along with the 90-100% you are doing-unless the plant is growing really good-Then a 1-2 time weekly 50% would be all that is needed....but it need to be growing really good and you see new growth on the plant at least weekly.
> 
> Bamboo, peace lily, ivy and what I like to use-cuttings from my weeping willow tree to root out-can help maintain water quality and use excessive nutrients in the water column to help prevent algae problems-But the key word being.._active growth_-otherwise they can become part of the water quality problem.


its a Pothos plant, it DOES have active growth b/c I trim the roots pretty heavily atleast once a month so my roots are always growing and I get a new leaf about every 10 days. I rinse my roots really well too with every water change.


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## sareena79

So, "OFL" do u think Sushi will be ok with one weekly 100% water change in his 2gal unfiltered tank with pothos plant actively growing? I only feed him once a day so theres not a bunch of wasted, decaying food upping the ammonia levels and to compensate for evaporation I add fresh treated water once a week as well.


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## Oldfishlady

The active plant growth will use the byproducts produced by the Betta and any left over food as plant food-You may not need to make 100%-I would make 50% twice weekly as long as you have good growth on the plant.


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## sareena79

oh wow thats good news, thanks! nothing more annoying than a 100% water change lol. thanks for the info. although knowing me I will probably still do it. but its good to know hes ok with one cleaning a week. Im eventually gonna upgrade to a 5 gal or possibly a 10gal divided tank with a 2nd betta but for now he seems pretty content. he has a light, heater and thermometer, a real plant as well as a fake and 3 kinds of gems/marbles/beads to nose around in (his fav thing to do, besides eat!) so even though its not the biggest house, hes cozy in it I think. He's got crazy long fins (CT) so I almost think he prefers to just hang out in the roots of the pothos anyway. there was a member on here that was making metal-free betta hammocks but I cant find the thread now. I was gonna buy a few from her b/c I think he would enjoy one of those. guess Ima have to hunt that thread down. anyway, THANKS AGAIN for the info


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## MaisyDawgThirteen

OFL - I am doing an article for school on bettas and care, do you mind if I include this guide in it?


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## MaisyDawgThirteen

sareena79 said:


> oh wow thats good news, thanks! nothing more annoying than a 100% water change lol. thanks for the info. although knowing me I will probably still do it. but its good to know hes ok with one cleaning a week. Im eventually gonna upgrade to a 5 gal or possibly a 10gal divided tank with a 2nd betta but for now he seems pretty content. he has a light, heater and thermometer, a real plant as well as a fake and 3 kinds of gems/marbles/beads to nose around in (his fav thing to do, besides eat!) so even though its not the biggest house, hes cozy in it I think. He's got crazy long fins (CT) so I almost think he prefers to just hang out in the roots of the pothos anyway. there was a member on here that was making metal-free betta hammocks but I cant find the thread now. I was gonna buy a few from her b/c I think he would enjoy one of those. guess Ima have to hunt that thread down. anyway, THANKS AGAIN for the info


 mollyjean was making them.


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## sareena79

MaisyDawgThirteen said:


> mollyjean was making them.


yes, thank u, I found the thread  think ima get a couple from her in the next day or so


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## Oldfishlady

MaisyDawgThirteen said:


> OFL - I am doing an article for school on bettas and care, do you mind if I include this guide in it?


No problem...use what you need....


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## MaisyDawgThirteen

Oldfishlady said:


> No problem...use what you need....


Thanks.


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## brookm

I had a question I have been trying to get my fishes tank cycled and i think I have finally done it. I have java moss and a large anubias in my 5 gal how often should i change the water?? also do i ever clean decor etc in the tank?? my tank is bare bottom can I wipe the bottom of the tank on occasion??


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## Oldfishlady

A filtered 5gal-bare bottom will have limited BB, however, it should still cycle. With live plants that you have-I would recommend 50% weekly with vacuum and wipe down as needed. Decoration cleaned as needed-but not more than a couple of times a month.
Filter media needs a swish/rinse a couple of time a month too-but schedule this between the decoration cleaning.


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## logisticsguy

I have a question. The tap water where I live is very hard and has a PH of 8.0. I would like to get it much softer and lower the ph to around 7.0 to be more friendly to my bettas. Some day I will invest in a RO system but for now I would like to use rain water from my barrels to do the job. I plan on doing this very slowly as I dont want to shock them. Am I heading down a dangerous road messing with gh and ph or is this plan ok. Thanks.


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## ao

oops already answered


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## Pices

Thank you for sharing your knowledge! It has cleared a lot up for me regarding water changes.


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## Oldfishlady

logisticsguy said:


> I have a question. The tap water where I live is very hard and has a PH of 8.0. I would like to get it much softer and lower the ph to around 7.0 to be more friendly to my bettas. Some day I will invest in a RO system but for now I would like to use rain water from my barrels to do the job. I plan on doing this very slowly as I dont want to shock them. Am I heading down a dangerous road messing with gh and ph or is this plan ok. Thanks.


It is really better not to mess with the hardness and pH unless it is causing problems for the Betta. Generally Betta will adapt to the source water hardness and pH without any problems and pH of 8 isn't that bad-but you really need to know the GH/KH.

When I move my Bettas outside in the warmer months- they go into rainwater/well water mix-all I do for them is a slow acclimation over 15-20 min more or less...more to their tolerance. The rainwater become more pure when it rains and more well water in drought when I need to top off or cool them off with the hose. Adult Betta, eggs, fry, juvies all seem to tolerate this without any problems. It not really too sudden changes but its not real gradual either.


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## logisticsguy

This helps much. Thank you for sharing your knowledge OFL it is greatly appreciated by many.


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## Myates

As usual, you rock  Thanks OFL! Can now link instead of type out instructions!


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## sainthogan

Is there anything special I need to do when I replace the filter cartridge? I have 2 live plants in my tank.


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## Oldfishlady

sainthogan said:


> Is there anything special I need to do when I replace the filter cartridge? I have 2 live plants in my tank.


This depends....size of tank, age of tank, stocking, species of plants and how mature the nitrogen cycle.

I don't change my filter media until its falling apart-generally all that need to be done with the filter media is to give it a good rinse/swish in the bucket of old tank water a couple of times a month. 
Unless you plan to use carbon and it is part of your filter media-like with the cartridges-then you need to change that per package direction. 
You may or may not need to cut a section from the old filter media sponge and add to your new filter media to seed it, however, this depends on the factors I stated above.

Carbon isn't needed in most tanks-its more of a personal choice. With that said, its a good idea to always have some fresh/unused carbon on hand for emergencies.


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## sainthogan

It's a Whisper filter with a bio bag. The directions say to change when the water is going over the top of the filter cartridge. It isn't doing that yet, so I think it's still good. I'll swish it in tank water the next time I change the water.


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## Lisa1010

Ugh! Sometimes I feel so confused and like I should give my beautiful girl back to the store so I don't risk killing her by my lack of knowing what is the right thing to do. Although I have had her for 2 months and she seems healthy and happy. It would just be a big heart break for me if I did something to kill her.

Oldfishlady, you said in the original test of the post...

1-4gal with/without filter and with live plants-
This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter *you don't want to make 100% water changes...*

This is my setup, I have a 2.5 gal heated tank. I took the filter out because apparently I don't need it in a small tank. I also have two small live plants in the tank which really don't seem like they are growing any. They appear to me to be the same size as when I bought them 2 months ago although they also seem healthy. I also have a moss ball in the tank. I feed her 2-3 pellets twice a day and she is eating every pellet so there is none falling to the bottom of the tank.

So my question is do I need to do 100% water changes every week or no?

When I do the 100% water changes I rinse in hot water everything but the plants, I rinse them in cool water. I also whip out the tank and put everything back then add my aged well water. I have not been using any conditioner but it has been advised so I will get some Prime this weekend and start doing that. Which I am sure I will have questions on that also! lol

I have only been doing 100% changes once a week, and no 50% changes.

I am doing this right or no?

Thank you for responding!

Lisa


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## bettasplash

*question*

Please stay on topic

If you will start a new thread and include the sticky info sheet-I will be happy to help you

Thank you.


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## Oldfishlady

What species are the plants and are they rooted? For plants to help with water quality they need to be in active growth and using the byproducts in the tank so they are not harmful to the Betta. Not all plants are good at this or use enough of the byproducts. Numbers, species and growth state of the plants makes a difference.

With rooted plants-you don't want to disrupt the roots with 100% water changes. You can also, make larger volume changes without disruption of the roots by making light vacuum or stir and dip method-removing 90% of the water.

Lights are a big factor with live plants-without the proper color temp the plants can't get the energy needed for proper growth and to use the byproducts in the tank.
What kind of lights, age of bulbs, kelvin and photoperiod.

I have well water and don't use dechlorinator products, however, all well water can be different and it can change with the season and weather changes. I am not saying you don't need a dechlorinator-just that you might not need it either. IMO/E-the less chemical additives the better


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## whimsicalbrainpan

Thank you so much for this post OFL!


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## Lisa1010

I think I have 2 different kinds of Anubias. One is Anubias Congensis with the tall leaves and the other I can't remember but it is pictured in my avatar with the flatter bigger leaves that they can lay on. That pic was taken the day I got them and the plant is no bigger. I have them buried under my gravel with smooth marble on top of that and a pot in between them. Did I bury them too much?

The light that I have been using is an LED light which gives off no heat and I do not have it directly over the tank but more to the side of the tank so I imagine the plant gets nothing from it. I have the tank sitting by my kitchen window but again off to the side so it is not getting direct sunlight. Will my plants eventually die?

So if this is what is considered rooted, then I shouldn't be doing 100% water changes in order to help the plants grow?

How do you get all the waste out of the tank if you don't do 100% changes? I guess I need to go and get a baster and see if I can suck up the bad stuff!

The weather is changing for sure so I will get the water tested again to make sure it is still good.

So do I sound crazy with all these questions? lol

I just want to make sure I am learning all I can to make sure she has a long happy, healthy life with me!

Thanks for "holding my hand" while I am learning! Makes me feel better knowing someone is out there to help newbies like me, and there have been a few of you who have really helped me!

Thank you OFL for replying! I really appreciate all this information!

Lisa


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## Oldfishlady

No, not crazy at all.....

Anubias is a slow growing, low feeding plant and its not a rooted plant-it should be tied/anchored to something like driftwood, rock or decoration of some type. The rhizome needs to be above the substrate-otherwise it can rot.

Since you have Anubias-you can remove it to make 100% water changes if you feel you need to make them, however, IMO/E they are not needed-but it shouldn't hurt either.

Since you are also getting natural light from the window-that should be plenty for the plant photosynthesis-most of the LED lights are not suited for plant growth-but the species of plant you have are a low light plant-if you opt for other species of plants you will most likely need to change your lights.


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## Lisa1010

Ok, One more question then. How do I tie or anchor the plants down? What do I use, just plain string or should I go to the store and buy something special?

Thanks for not thinking I am crazy with these questions.

Lisa


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## Oldfishlady

Lisa1010 said:


> Ok, One more question then. How do I tie or anchor the plants down? What do I use, just plain string or should I go to the store and buy something special?
> 
> Thanks for not thinking I am crazy with these questions.
> 
> Lisa


I use plain cotton thread-but anything will work...fishing line, rubber band...etc...


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## Lisa1010

Oh, fishing line! I have that so that is what I will use.

I am going to change her tank today so I can get those plants right and hopefully they will start growing.

Thanks again for all your help!

Do I need to wash everything in hot water though or just lightly rinse them?

Thanks!

Lisa


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## carbonxxkidd

This is a great post, thank you!

One question - are there any differences between how often to clean tanks with an under-gravel filter versus a power/regular filter?


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## Oldfishlady

With UGF it is important to vacuum really good at least weekly to keep the plates free of debris so they function properly.


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## Agility4fun

@Lisa1010 No crazy questions, I'm learning from them too.


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## Agility4fun

Regarding water quality, I just got proper testing kits and everything but ph is good. My tap water is just bad. My old bettas (got them in May of this year) get 50-75% water change each week and I use Prime. Shall I change them over to spring bottled water which is closer to neutral but not exactly neutral, or a combo of the waters? My new fish got a cycled tank with Prime'd spring water.


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## Oldfishlady

Unless the fish are having problems with your source water or you have extreme pH issues....It is best to use your tap water along with a dechlorinator.

Bottled water is not all created equal and sometimes it is just filtered tap water that still contains additives that are not healthy for fish, as well as the filtering process that can remove the minerals that are important for long term health. Plus, it can get expensive using bottled water....

Most Betta will adapt to the source water pH without issues IME....

What is your pH and KH/GH of your source water-with and without additives and the 24h degas.


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## BettaPirate

Thanks so much for this post! I have been close to this but because I changed from a small .5 gal tank to a 3 gal tank I wasn't sure how often to change water and how much now.


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## Agility4fun

@OldFishLady

pH: 6.5 (test strip) treated water, 7.6 treated and untreated (API tube kits).

KH: 120 with test strip on treated water

GH: 60 with test strip on treated water

I don't know what "24h degas" is?

Can't find the color chart to retest tap water with test strips.


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## Oldfishlady

The 24h degas for the pH-you pour a clean glass of source water-do a pH test-then let that glass of water sit for 24h and re-test the pH. Once the water degases-it will give you a more accurate pH reading.

The test strips are great for a quick check, however, when you need to make changes to the pH/KH/GH it is better to use the liquid reagent test products.

With that said, it is better to allow the Betta to adapt to your source water. If your Betta is having problems-then you would need to adjust the water.

Are these numbers for the bottled water or your tap water.


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## Agility4fun

Ahhh, that's for that tidbit about degassing. Should this airing out happen every water change?

The numbers I posted were for tap water that was treated as marked. I did a ph test on treated and in-treated water. When I say treated it means with Prime. 

Thanks.


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## Oldfishlady

No, you don't need to degas the water with every water change-its a slight change that is normal-fish tolerate gradual changes.


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## daylily

I am new to having an aquarium and have water change questions. 

I have a Fluval Spec V - five gallons. I added a fish a week ago today, a male betta.

1) I drew water a few days ago to do my water change with, it is 68 degrees. I am keeping the tank at 80. When I do water change, should I be heating the new water in any way? Won't a change of temperature stress my betta? I've been doing water changes while cycling and all the weeks the plants were in there without fish and never thought about the temperature I was adding to the tank. Now, with a Betta in there...?

2) The tank has a lot of plants in it. A local fish club member gave me starts of 15 different types of plants several weeks ago. I only have the one Betta in the tank. I have not seen any snails that would have come with the plants. Also, I feed pellets one by one - blood worms too... and the fish has eaten every bite as I give it to him - none fell to the bottom. With one Betta and lots of plants - will there be enough food for the beneficial bacteria to survive to allow the tank to be cycled? Am I correct in thinking that water changes won't affect the cycle, but will drop nitrate? 

3) The tank numbers have been stable since I put the Betta in last Friday, and stopped adding small amounts of ammonia a couple days before that. I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. My well water tests .25 ammonia out of the tap.
So, for the last week - 
ammonia is between 0 and .25 - it is just slightly colored
nitrite is 0
nitrate is 10
The plants are growing and rooting, and the Betta seems really happy, is active, eating well.
Should I do a 50% change once a week -- or more or less often? I was not sure given all the plants, and only one fish in 5 gal.

Thanks so much!


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## Oldfishlady

In a 5gal filtered and heavy planted tank-50% water change every week to 2 weeks...depending on number, species and growth state of the plants. I wouldn't worry about the ammonia in the well water or cycling per se. The active plant growth will take care of the ammonia and any cycling issue.

You can sit your premix jug of water you use for water changes in hot/warm water to bring it to temp for water changes. Or, adjust at the tap and fill your jugs with like temp water to start. It is better on the Betta to try and get your replacement water fairly close to the tank water temp for water changes.


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## daylily

Here is a link to a thread here where I posted a photo of the tank. I didn't realize how much the plants have grown until I saw this photo from a couple weeks ago.
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=119880

Thanks again - what you said makes sense! I appreciate it. I'd like to do everything I can to make this one happy, healthy Betta!


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## Katy

Great sticky Thanks! I think I too often default to 'too clean' with my 10g planted tanks.


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## nel3

is there any real use in reusing water from a cycled tank in order to remove all the detrius from the bottom? my 5g divided is cycled with 2 betta on either side. i have a nerite on the filter side and he's a bit messy. before when i did WC i had to change 3-4g of water to get most of the detrius and waste out of the gravel. it probably made the fins fragile and my VT had some tears a dew days after. 

i just did a 2g wc but i bottled the water i removed and put 80% back into the tank while the rest of the water and detrius went to the toilet. i did another round of gravel vac and put back another 80% of the water until 80-90% of the detrius was removed from the gravel. i probably removed 1/3 g of the old water before i drained the 2 gallons i replaced for the tank. does anyone do this and is this even a good way to clean up after a snail/fish tank?


----------



## Oldfishlady

The beneficial bacteria are sticky and adhere to all the surface areas within the tank, in the top layer of the substrate and in the filter media...very little is in the water column itself and so removing all the water shouldn't hurt the cycle, however, you usually don't need to make 100% water changes anyway.

Too clean can be as bad as too dirty....you don't have or need to try and remove all the mulm/debris from the tank-some of this can be good and will help to feed good bacteria to help maintain the balance-By removing all the slow growing good bacteria can allow the faster growing bad bacteria to take over. Not to mention antibody development and stress of total water changes and/or cupping, osmotic shock...etc.....


----------



## nel3

Oldfishlady said:


> The beneficial bacteria are sticky and adhere to all the surface areas within the tank, in the top layer of the substrate and in the filter media...very little is in the water column itself and so removing all the water shouldn't hurt the cycle, however, you usually don't need to make 100% water changes anyway.
> 
> Too clean can be as bad as too dirty....you don't have or need to try and remove all the mulm/debris from the tank-some of this can be good and will help to feed good bacteria to help maintain the balance-By removing all the slow growing good bacteria can allow the faster growing bad bacteria to take over. Not to mention antibody development and stress of total water changes and/or cupping, osmotic shock...etc.....


Thank You very much ofl. I do Finder the nerite very useful for algea centrów but he poops everywhere and it doesnt look very Nice at All. That was the reason why I try to remove as much as possible. I'll try to leave some of the detritus in the tank next water change.

The reason why I did near 100wc was to remove the detrius. I know better now than to have the water too clean.


----------



## Blue Fish

Oldfishlady said:


> The beneficial bacteria are sticky and adhere to all the surface areas within the tank, in the top layer of the substrate and in the filter media...very little is in the water column itself and so removing all the water shouldn't hurt the cycle, however, you usually don't need to make 100% water changes anyway.


Is there a typical amount of surface area needed for enough bacteria? Like a certain ratio of gallons to fish to filter, or something like that? 

Also, I know that drying out the sponges and rinsing off the decorations/plants with untreated tap water is very bad (because of the chlorine) and will kill the BB...but just how tough is the BB? Is it very delicate, or like most bacteria, is it fairly resilient? 

And one more question, sorry, so in a filtered tank, do you ever make a 100% water change? 

Thanks for this AWESOME sticky. So very helpful!!


----------



## Oldfishlady

Not that I have ever found, however, surface area is just one of the limiting factors with BB-you also have oxygen and food source. Once it dehydrates its dead.
As for 100% water changes...you can change out all the water-but I wouldn't over clean the filter media or clean non-viewing walls the same day...you could vacuum in all areas you could reach without moving anything.

When I had my Oscars-I did 100% plus water changes on their 75gal tank. I would vacuum the substrate-removing the water all the way down to the point that they would be sideways. Refill to near 75% and do it again on a weekly basis......Oscars are messy, messy fish...lol.....Some of the massive water change was more for them than water quality...They love to play in the fresh water as it was flowing in. Oscars are puppy dog like in some of their behaviors but at 10 inches. You can't have live plants with them or I never could..lol....they would dig them up and tear them to shreds. If I put something in their tank they didn't like...I would find it laying on the floor next to the tank-Sadly, they out grew the 75gal and I re-homed them after the first spawn-otherwise I would still have them...really cool fish...Anyway....even with these massive water changes I never seen any spikes in water prams. I don't make 100% water changes with my Betta-but I also have lots of live plants.


----------



## Blue Fish

Thanks for the information, and the Oscars sound like so much fun! Too big for my limited spaces, but if I ever have a larger tank...I may have to try these guys out.  

Good to know about the surface area. I've never actually cleaned the filter media and all the sponges attached to the filter...it never seemed to be particularly grubby, so I've just left it alone. Of course, these tank set ups are only a couple of months old as well, so that's probably a lot of it. 

Now I just need to tackle plants. Really, really easy plants.  I've heard that duckweed is very easy to grow and doesn't need much care, does it do a fair job towards assisting in water quality? Are there any plants in particular that are better than others for assisting in filtering/cleaning? 

Thanks again for the information!


----------



## Oldfishlady

Stem plants and floating plants are best for filtration since they are fast growers and big eaters-plus the floating plants can get their CO2 from the air.


----------



## Blue Fish

Ahh, I had not thought about floating being able to get CO2 from the atmosphere...interesting. 

Thanks for the rec's!


----------



## johnny151

I saw the OP posted 10 gallon with filter 50% water change. I've only been doing 20-25% Weekly. Is 25% ok, or not enough and will cause illness?


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## Myates

If your 10g has no live plants it is recommended to do 50% weekly, which includes vacuuming of the substrate... water quality is the most important thing for a fish, for their health. In time it can cause different problems, can promote different things such as fungus and bacteria that attacks the fish (such as fin rot). 

The OP is very knowledgeable in the proper recommendations of water changes, would follow the advice given for your set up to ensure a better chance for a healthy, long living fish.


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## johnny151

Myates said:


> If your 10g has no live plants it is recommended to do 50% weekly, which includes vacuuming of the substrate... water quality is the most important thing for a fish, for their health. In time it can cause different problems, can promote different things such as fungus and bacteria that attacks the fish (such as fin rot).
> 
> The OP is very knowledgeable in the proper recommendations of water changes, would follow the advice given for your set up to ensure a better chance for a healthy, long living fish.


Thank you! I was told only to do 25% by a Petsmart associate and I've been doing that since:-( I realise from this forum that Petsmart associates are not reliable. My poor buddy. Today is his water change i will do 50% from now on. 

Do you happen to know a good water conditioner? I use Tetra Aquasafe Plus... but I feel like i could get something better

Also, how long are you supposed to wait before adding the new water after putting the conditioner?


----------



## crowntaillove3

Thanks for taking the time to type all of that up! It is a big help to first time owners like me!


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## jdeschene

Hi all! I have just joined as I plan to very soon add a little fishy friend to my family. This information has been wonderfully helpful! Thanks so much.

One question: this is the first I've heard of the "stir and dip method." What is that exactly?

Thanks so much!


----------



## Oldfishlady

The stir and dip method is sometimes used for the smaller tanks that are hard to vacuum or when you don't have a vacuum to use or with lightly planted tanks with inert substrate.

What I do-I use chopsticks or anything will work to stir the inert substrate a bit to bring some of the mulm/debris up into the water column. Then using a cup-dip half the water out of the tank.
If you have a filter-turn this off before you start-as well as unplug the heater for any water change.
Refill
Once refilled-the tank should clear within the hour-you can't and don't want to remove all the mulm/debris-some is good for the system.
If the tank doesn't clear within the hour-you either missed a weekly water change, overstocked or overfeeding.


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## jdeschene

Thanks so much! I think this method would be perfect for the size of my tank!


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## callistra

Now I see where people are getting all these new water change suggestions.. nice 

The only one my tests would have any contradiction to is the 5g. I do 100% weekly in mine or I see as much as .5ppm ammonia by day 7. I also keep bare bottom and suck up all poo with a turkey baster. I've never done a 50% change at that point and continued but if it reaches that high in 7 days in another 7 with only 50% change it's going to be exponentially higher.


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## rangerserena

Ofl i just want to make sure i understand how to change the water. I have a 2 1/2 gallon tank for my betta. So i need to take half his water out but leave him in the tank ? Then i gradually add the new treated water to his tank every few minites? Do i take his rocks out or do i transefer him to another holding cell?


----------



## Oldfishlady

rangerserena said:


> Ofl i just want to make sure i understand how to change the water. I have a 2 1/2 gallon tank for my betta. So i need to take half his water out but leave him in the tank ? Then i gradually add the new treated water to his tank every few minites? Do i take his rocks out or do i transefer him to another holding cell?


What method are you using...vacuum or stir and dip method, is the tank filtered and any live plants.


----------



## rangerserena

Oldfishlady said:


> What method are you using...vacuum or stir and dip method, is the tank filtered and any live plants.


I think stir and dip. No filter no plants. He eats new spectrum small fish food everyday,saturday fasting, and some frozen brine shrimp every three days


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## callistra

So in that tank size you need 2 changes a week - one 50% and one 100%.

This is how I do large water changes: 



> To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.


100% needs to include a thorough rinsing of all gravel and decor.

ETA: Unless your house is remaining a constant 80F+ (meaning not even dips at night) he needs a heater. Also the stick on thermometers are pretty inaccurate so I suggest getting one of those glass in tank ones. Also watch that decor.. IDK what's up with it if anything, but I've seen multiple people on these forums posting the paint on that thing started bubbling and then their betta came down with dropsy soon after.


----------



## Oldfishlady

In a 2.5gal unfiltered-without live plants-Using the stir and dip method-twice weekly...1-50% and 1-90-100% to maintain water quality-provided that you don't overfeed and remove uneaten food within a reasonable time.

IMO/E-you don't need to remove everything on a weekly bases or even remove the Betta for water changes-Carefully dip out the water after you stir the substrate slightly for the 90-100%. Every month, I would cup the fish and dump everything if you felt the need, however, IMO/E that isn't needed that often either-unless you overfeed or your water doesn't clean within an hour after a water change.

This is a copy/paste from an earlier post I made:
The stir and dip method is sometimes used for the smaller tanks that are hard to vacuum or when you don't have a vacuum to use or with lightly planted tanks with inert substrate.

What I do-I use chopsticks or anything will work to stir the inert substrate a bit to bring some of the mulm/debris up into the water column. Then using a cup-dip half the water out of the tank.
If you have a filter-turn this off before you start-as well as unplug the heater for any water change.
Refill
Once refilled-the tank should clear within the hour-you can't and don't want to remove all the mulm/debris-some is good for the system.
If the tank doesn't clear within the hour-you either missed a weekly water change, overstocked or overfeeding


----------



## Sparrowhawk

Just a quick question, not really urgent but would definitely help in the future. Currently all three of my tanks are 3.9 gallons, unfiltered, and I do one 50% and one 100% water change weekly, with a couple of live plants attached to hidey-holes and driftwood. I notice you've said with live plants you generally don't want to do 100% changes. Are those changes that I've been doing bad for the plants?

Secondly, I'm planning to do a huge overhaul of all three tanks in the next couple of months, introducing quite a few live plants to each, including loads more anubias (multiple varieties hopefully), fontinalis and water sprite (which I already have, but more of it). I have bare-bottom tanks for ease of cleaning, and plan to keep it that way, with all plants attached to hardscape.

What water change schedule would you recommend for that setup?

Thanks in advance for any advice given! ^.^


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## Oldfishlady

If the plants are thriving-I would make 1-2 50% weekly water changes. Its up to the plants IME- As long as they are thriving and you see active growth-they are using byproducts in the tank to keep the water filtered to maintain your water quality. The more active growing plants the less water changes you need-but at least 1-50% weekly....


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## Sparrowhawk

Thank you very much for the advice!
:-D


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## rangerserena

I just stared up my 50 gal tank. 10 fish no plants yet, marineland emperor biowheel filter. How many changes would you suggest? I do plan on getting some live plants how many would you suggest and can i add a few more fish? And how much would those additions alter my change schedual?


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## Oldfishlady

In a 50gal cycled with a few live plants-stocked with 10 fish-50% with vacuum weekly.

During the nitrogen cycle.

If you have a test kit on hand-monitor water prams daily and make 50% water only with test results of ammonia, nitrite 0.25ppm or greater and 50% with vacuum in all areas you can reach without moving anything or disruption of plant roots every week-this is the water change you will do for the life of the tank to maintain water quality once the nitrogen cycle has established.

If you don't have a test kit on hand-make the 50% water only between the 50% with vacuum to be safe. You also will want to make a 50% water only anytime you see abnormal fish behavior, fish death, removal of a sick fish as a general rule.


----------



## rangerserena

Oldfishlady said:


> In a 50gal cycled with a few live plants-stocked with 10 fish-50% with vacuum weekly.
> 
> During the nitrogen cycle.
> 
> If you have a test kit on hand-monitor water prams daily and make 50% water only with test results of ammonia, nitrite 0.25ppm or greater and 50% with vacuum in all areas you can reach without moving anything or disruption of plant roots every week-this is the water change you will do for the life of the tank to maintain water quality once the nitrogen cycle has established.
> 
> If you don't have a test kit on hand-make the 50% water only between the 50% with vacuum to be safe. You also will want to make a 50% water only anytime you see abnormal fish behavior, fish death, removal of a sick fish as a general rule.


So when i do this water change i just treat the new water in its own bucket for only that amount that was removed then add it to my tank with the fish still in it right?


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## Oldfishlady

IMO-you should treat the full volume of the tank-not just the replacement water.


----------



## rangerserena

Ok. So treat for the whole 50 gals and then just pour it into the tank with fish still in there


----------



## babystarz

How much/often should I be doing water changes on an unfiltered, heavily planted 20 gallon long NPT? All my other tanks are filtered so I am unsure.


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## Oldfishlady

On a-mature soil based heavy planted 20gal with lots of active plant growth-reasonably stocked-even without a filter-that is at least 3 months old...Water changes of 2-3 times a year.....If the system is balanced, mature and working the way it should-it doesn't need that many water changes....


----------



## Artist with a betta

I just added a big black mystery snail to my betta's ten gallon so now's there is just one fish and one snail. the tank is unfiltered how often should i change the water since I heard snails give off a lot of bio waste. I also have the 5 apon hybrids growing in the tank too.


----------



## Oldfishlady

Artist with a betta said:


> I just added a big black mystery snail to my betta's ten gallon so now's there is just one fish and one snail. the tank is unfiltered how often should i change the water since I heard snails give off a lot of bio waste. I also have the 5 apon hybrids growing in the tank too.


I would still stay with the 50% weekly with light vacuum


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## Jexx

I have 2 5 gallon tanks that are filtered and heated with gravel and silk plants. each has one betta. i have been doing 20-25% changes every other day and light vacuum every time. i test my water every other day. it reads .25 for ammonia on the days i do the change (before water change) nitrites now read 0, nitrates read 5.0 the tanks are just over a month old. is it safe to do 50% weekly changes at this point? or should i wait a bit longer until it is fully cycled?


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## Oldfishlady

In 2.5gal filtered without live plants-I would make twice weekly water changes for the life of the system....1-50% water only and 1-50% that include vacuum in all places you can reach without moving anything.
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.

If you haven't already, I would run a base line on your source water with and without your normal additives to rule out any skewed results.


----------



## Jexx

Oldfishlady said:


> In 2.5gal filtered without live plants-I would make twice weekly water changes for the life of the system....1-50% water only and 1-50% that include vacuum in all places you can reach without moving anything.
> Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.
> 
> If you haven't already, I would run a base line on your source water with and without your normal additives to rule out any skewed results.


My apologies, i meant i have TWO 5 gallon tanks. they are a month old and read .25 ammonia, 0 nitrites and 5 nitrate after 3 days. I tested the source water and it read 0 for ammonia. Is it possible that they are just not quite cycled yet? a week ago the nitrites and ammonia read .25 but now the nitrites are down to 0..


----------



## Oldfishlady

What is the base line test results on the source water-ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH...with and without additives. What are the additives, what is the source water, what kind of testing products used.

In 5gal filtered-weekly with vacuum for a single Betta-provided that you don't overfeed and uneaten food is removed within a reasonable time.


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## 5150wicd4fish

Sorry for jumping this thread but I wanted to ask OFL, since you have several tanks...Today I am stumped, I did a routine check of both my 20g. tank, planted with 1 betta and 1 albino pleco, all params were good, tested PH, and was shocked it was 6.6.
I also have a 60 gal. community tank, sparsely planted but soon to change, and tested all params are good, with PH of 7.6.

The water source is well water, I do have RO water, but modified due to tankless system and can switch levers. THis is the same water...I do treat my 60 gal. for chloramines, but really dont need to, since have record of testing well water... I also put in my 20 gal. treat with Beta plus, so basically same.
How can my water params change so drastically? I realize plants for my 20 can and do help with phosphates and nitrates, but can it be so drastic that I need to buffer the 20 ga each time I change water? I do 8+ gallons each time. 
This freaks me out, because my betta seems very content with all params in tank, plants are doing very well, lighting, ferts, normal... This system has been in place for approx. 1 year.. I do water changes for 20g, nitrates are always 5.0 ppm prior to change, ammo, 0, nitrite 0. 
Thank you for any advise


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## Oldfishlady

To understand-the 20gal that is heavy planted-pH drop to 6.6-You use a mix of well water and R/O water...correct....

What are the water changes-how much and how often, type of substrate in the 20gal-do you have a lot of organics that are decomp'ing in the tank.

What is the base line pH, KH/GH on both the well water and R/O water and tank KH/GH. Are you injecting CO2....also, what kind of testing kit are you using

Its not uncommon to see the pH drop as the tank matures-especially with organic that are decomp'ing-that decomp naturally creates CO2 that can drive the pH down.


----------



## Otterfun

Oldfishlady said:


> What is the base line test results on the source water-ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH...with and without additives. What are the additives, what is the source water, what kind of testing products used.
> 
> In 5gal filtered-weekly with vacuum for a single Betta-provided that you don't overfeed and uneaten food is removed within a reasonable time.


Hi,
back to an old question you had for me when Fred was still alive.

Without additives: 0 for Ammonia, Nitrite, 10 for Nitrate

With additives (Prime, Plant Fert., Excel) : 0 for Ammonia, Nitrite, 20 for Nitrate

So should I age my water before putting them into the tank?

Added Stress Zyme on Sunday, and today is Day 25 of my cycling with 4 Amano (outlasted my betta), and 1 golden apple snail in a 5g tank, filtered and planted:

Day 24 reading after 2g WC AND replaced the carbon bag (which was a very bad idea): 0-0.25 Ammonia, 0.25 Nitrite, 20-30 Nitrate.


----------



## 5150wicd4fish

Oldfishlady said:


> To understand-the 20gal that is heavy planted-pH drop to 6.6-You use a mix of well water and R/O water...correct....
> 
> What are the water changes-how much and how often, type of substrate in the 20gal-do you have a lot of organics that are decomp'ing in the tank.
> 
> What is the base line pH, KH/GH on both the well water and R/O water and tank KH/GH. Are you injecting CO2....also, what kind of testing kit are you using
> 
> Its not uncommon to see the pH drop as the tank matures-especially with organic that are decomp'ing-that decomp naturally creates CO2 that can drive the pH down.


Thanks for quick reply OFL 
I don't use a mix of RO and well, just use well water..
Do water change every 5 to 6 days, remove 8 plus gallons, vacuume mid to moderate due to pleco, it is sand substrate with a spattering of clay I forgot name gravel at bases of some plants. 
Use API liquid test kit, use Seachem Flourish excel every other water change...and yes sometimes I let some plant leaves in to decomp.

I must admit I have not done a KH/GH test, since I had trouble with this when dealing with my cichlids last year..(though forum peeps said I was fine)
I'm leary of adding anything too quickly..like I never tried baking soda..or chemical PH increase on 20g,.... I have however on 60gal. in the past.
Thanks again for your help


----------



## Oldfishlady

Otterfun said:


> Hi,
> back to an old question you had for me when Fred was still alive.
> 
> Without additives: 0 for Ammonia, Nitrite, 10 for Nitrate
> 
> With additives (Prime, Plant Fert., Excel) : 0 for Ammonia, Nitrite, 20 for Nitrate
> 
> So should I age my water before putting them into the tank?
> 
> Added Stress Zyme on Sunday, and today is Day 25 of my cycling with 4 Amano (outlasted my betta), and 1 golden apple snail in a 5g tank, filtered and planted:
> 
> Day 24 reading after 2g WC AND replaced the carbon bag (which was a very bad idea): 0-0.25 Ammonia, 0.25 Nitrite, 20-30 Nitrate.


Since you have nitrate in the source water to start-then the additives that are causing skewed results-aging the water will not do much and not needed. Then ammonia/nitrite spike that may or may not have been due to the filter media change out-

Question-how are the plants doing, how many and what species of plants and this is a soil based-correct??? You are using one of the API brand test kit-correct....what is the pH...How often are you making water changes.


----------



## Oldfishlady

5150wicd4fish said:


> Thanks for quick reply OFL
> I don't use a mix of RO and well, just use well water..
> Do water change every 5 to 6 days, remove 8 plus gallons, vacuume mid to moderate due to pleco, it is sand substrate with a spattering of clay I forgot name gravel at bases of some plants.
> Use API liquid test kit, use Seachem Flourish excel every other water change...and yes sometimes I let some plant leaves in to decomp.
> 
> I must admit I have not done a KH/GH test, since I had trouble with this when dealing with my cichlids last year..(though forum peeps said I was fine)
> I'm leary of adding anything too quickly..like I never tried baking soda..or chemical PH increase on 20g,.... I have however on 60gal. in the past.
> Thanks again for your help


I don't generally recommend changing the pH unless it is extreme or the livestock are having problems. It best to leave it alone-especially since you don't have KH/GH. Do you know if you have hard or soft water???
IMO-if your well water doesn't have chemical additives-like chlorine/chloramins-I wouldn't use dechlorinators-it won't hurt to use it-but generally not needed-with that said, sometimes heavy metals can be a problem-but fish generally will adapt or it won't cause problems to start-just one less thing to buy and use...lol....I have never used dechlorinator with my well water and haven't had issue.

Nothing wrong with allowing some decomp to go on IMO/E-especially in heavy planted tanks or allowing some mulm to buildup and break down-As long as you have enough of the right species of plants in active growth they will use it for food. 

How deep is the sand-any smell-like rotten eggs.


----------



## 5150wicd4fish

Thanks OFL...I know the well water is hard water.. LOL, on the chlorine/ yup I don't know why I use it, but I'm just "conditioned" haha, to use it since like I said with other tanks I wanted to be sure, had some expensive fish in bigger tank..
But I think I will try not using in 20g.
I've never smelled rotten eggs, but sometimes I let a slice of squash or zuccs for a day and take out next morning since pleco really enjoys this..(this is only done like once every two weeks)
The sand is about 1 1/2 inches, I do sometimes have to replace a little because I vaccumme up some...( I know I like a clean tank) haha, thats my downfall...and my albino "bud" sure likes to leave his deposits...heehee
plants are: altermanthera reineckii roseafolia, cabomba,anubias,water wisteria,dwarf hairgrass,amazon sword,two types of moss, don't remember name.


----------



## Otterfun

Oldfishlady said:


> Since you have nitrate in the source water to start-then the additives that are causing skewed results-aging the water will not do much and not needed. Then ammonia/nitrite spike that may or may not have been due to the filter media change out-
> 
> Question-how are the plants doing,
> They are thriving because of the liquid Aqueon Plant Food fert. & Seachem Excel every other day 5cc/5g.
> 
> I got a GE $8 Plant bulb from Orchards, plug it into my regular desk lamp and turn it on for about 30 mins each morning after I add the ferts. this is in addition to the 7500K LED frmo the AQ kit which the Petco guy said was not really a plant LED even though it is more than 6500K.
> 
> how many and what species of plants
> 1 Cholla, driftwood covered in Marimo Ball, 6" long x 1" wide (meh, nothing much happening, but the amanos were hiding in it because it was hollow when Fred was around, now they eat off its algae.
> 
> 
> 1 Marimo Moss ball grew about 1/4" in a month.
> 
> 
> 
> 1 Pigmy Chain Sword, Echinodorus tenellus, Narrow Leaf (have 4-5 runners and growing since 1/16/13 planted) 4" patch extending to about 6" if we are counting the runners coverage.
> 
> 
> 
> 1 CRYPTOCORYNE WENDTII 'RED' (melted when planted and only 2 or 3 leaves left)
> 
> 
> 1 HYGROPHILA CORYMBOSA STRICTA, (started growing when I applied a Plant Light for 30 mins each morning, separated the stems and started having more new leaves)
> 
> 
> 6-8 stems of HYGROPHILA CORYMBOSA ANGUSTIFOLIA, planted into substrate (started growing when I applied a Plant Light for 30 mins each morning, replanted some stems)
> 
> 
> 2 stems of Wisteria planted and growing, 2 floating plantlets that I spilt from the planted ones.
> 
> 
> and this is a soil based-correct??? Using Floramax about 1.25" deep undulating terrain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are using one of the API brand test kit-correct. Yes
> 
> ...what is the pH...7.4
> 
> How often are you making water changes. about 2g every other day, noticed that Amonnia has been kept around 0.25 or lower, it's the nitrites and nitrates that trigger me to do water changes.


Tank: 5g
Temp 78F
Livestock: 4 Amano, 1 golden apple snail, molting and growing.


----------



## Oldfishlady

Otterfun-so the plant are doing good..correct....Honestly, I don't know much about LED lights-never had any and can't afford the ones rated for plants...lol....But if the plants are doing okay, growing, sending out runners and you need to trim and replant at least every 7-14 days-then the lights most likely are the color temp needed for photosynthesis. Your spikes might be due to the additives and not really ammonia per se-but the nitrogen ferts that are causing skewed results-especially if the plants are thriving-You might be over cleaning....with live plants the mulm/debris needs to be allowed to break down-otherwise the plants can't use the nutrients. If not already, I would stay on at least 10h photoperiod and if you can turn the other light on later for at least 4 hours

5150-what time of day are you testing the pH...it is not uncommon to have low pH in the AM and a higher pH in the PM. Personally, I don't worry about pH-especially in planted tanks-A lot of pH issues are related to plants and decomp and these are gradual-normal changes and don't generally cause problems for livestock, however, the more sensitive fish it can be. And since you have hard water-it should be buffered enough anyway and the pH changes shouldn't be problematic.


----------



## Otterfun

Oldfishlady said:


> Otterfun-so the plant are doing good..correct....
> They were not as good before the GE plant bulb was introduced mid-week this week...Now it will be "The go-to light" for my plants = D
> 
> Honestly, I don't know much about LED lights-never had any and can't afford the ones rated for plants...lol....But if the plants are doing okay, growing, sending out runners and you need to trim and replant at least every 7-14 days-then the lights most likely are the color temp needed for photosynthesis.
> 
> so do I "disconnect" the runner as replanting?
> 
> Your spikes might be due to the additives and not really ammonia per se-but the nitrogen ferts that are causing skewed results-especially if the plants are thriving-
> 
> 
> You might be over cleaning....
> I have a feeling I might have...hahaha:-D
> 
> with live plants the mulm/debris needs to be allowed to break down-otherwise the plants can't use the nutrients.
> 
> Ok, I think I am OCD cos I sucked them up with a turkey baster as soon as I see some from the snail or amanos.  I will try to "ignore them". May I know how long I need to ignore them e.g. until they disintegrate or disappear?
> 
> If not already, I would stay on at least 10h photoperiod and if you can turn the other light on later for at least 4 hours


Thanks so much, it will be a better tank when the next betta calls it home.


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## 5150wicd4fish

Oldfishlady said:


> Otterfun-so the plant are doing good..correct....Honestly, I don't know much about LED lights-never had any and can't afford the ones rated for plants...lol....But if the plants are doing okay, growing, sending out runners and you need to trim and replant at least every 7-14 days-then the lights most likely are the color temp needed for photosynthesis. Your spikes might be due to the additives and not really ammonia per se-but the nitrogen ferts that are causing skewed results-especially if the plants are thriving-You might be over cleaning....with live plants the mulm/debris needs to be allowed to break down-otherwise the plants can't use the nutrients. If not already, I would stay on at least 10h photoperiod and if you can turn the other light on later for at least 4 hours
> 
> 5150-what time of day are you testing the pH...it is not uncommon to have low pH in the AM and a higher pH in the PM. Personally, I don't worry about pH-especially in planted tanks-A lot of pH issues are related to plants and decomp and these are gradual-normal changes and don't generally cause problems for livestock, however, the more sensitive fish it can be. And since you have hard water-it should be buffered enough anyway and the pH changes shouldn't be problematic.


OFL ... I usually do test in afternoon..so sounds like I'm in right track..
with this tank.. ..my other
I'm pissed, today I planted a beautiful Aponogeton boivinianus, very tall for my 60g and all my tiger and grn barbs are "enjoying" this plant, Ughh I have holes in it!! money down the drain!!


----------



## Lunchbox148

Hello everyone! My mom's betta is in a 1 Gallon MiniBow 1 filtered aquarium... I was always told never to do full water changes period... I want to try to cycle her tank as it is new (and we just bought her betta It's my old tank) 
Is it possible to cycle this small tank? I really don't want to stress my mom's fish out netting the poor thing weekly... Thanks much!


----------



## ao

Lunchbox148 said:


> Hello everyone! My mom's betta is in a 1 Gallon MiniBow 1 filtered aquarium... I was always told never to do full water changes period... I want to try to cycle her tank as it is new (and we just bought her betta It's my old tank)
> Is it possible to cycle this small tank? I really don't want to stress my mom's fish out netting the poor thing weekly... Thanks much!


it is completely possible to cycle a small tank... however i would recommend you to keep up the water changes. 100% water changes dont affect bettas as they do to other fish as bettas are labyrinth breathers..
a cycled 1gallon may not hold a steady cycle hence it is highly recommended to keep up with a good water change practice. happy fish keeping!


----------



## SunnyBettaGirl

This is an adorable picture of your reptile pet  And I don't like lizards!


----------



## Oldfishlady

Lunchbox148 said:


> Hello everyone! My mom's betta is in a 1 Gallon MiniBow 1 filtered aquarium... I was always told never to do full water changes period... I want to try to cycle her tank as it is new (and we just bought her betta It's my old tank)
> Is it possible to cycle this small tank? I really don't want to stress my mom's fish out netting the poor thing weekly... Thanks much!


I agree, small filtered tank will establish the nitrogen cycle, however, it may not be stable due to limited surface area-with that said, by adding more surface area by using extra foam in the filter, bio-balls and/or live plants...etc...you could maintain a stable cycle.

I recommend twice weekly water change on 1gal filtered tanks-1-50% water only and 1-50% that includes the substrate by vacuum or stir and dip method. IMO-the less times you have to remove the Betta from the tank the better-Less chance for an accident from improper acclimation, being dropped....etc....By adding live plants you can usually safely reduce water changes to 50% weekly, however, it depends on the number, species and growth state of the plants-a few may not help that much or if they are not thriving-the plants could become part of the water quality problem.

IMO/E-filters are optional for this species-especially in the smaller tanks with the Long fin males-Sometimes the water movement can be the cause of tattered fins and stress. Without a filter it would only change one of the twice weekly water changes- unless you had active growing live plants.


----------



## Lunchbox148

Thanks a lot everyone! I had another question would a moss ball be an appropriate choice for my 1 gallon tank and my 5 gallon? Would it serve the same purpose as some live plants? do you guys recommend moss balls? and if not what other live plants should I look into?


----------



## Otterfun

Lunchbox148 said:


> Thanks a lot everyone! I had another question would a moss ball be an appropriate choice for my 1 gallon tank and my 5 gallon? Would it serve the same purpose as some live plants? do you guys recommend moss balls? and if not what other live plants should I look into?


I have a marimo moss ball and a marimo moss covered driftwood. It looks nice in a tank but tend to attract fine substrate on it. It is low light plant, so it stays pretty green. My Amano and my snail eats the algae off them.

It think they are supposed to absorb ammonia.


----------



## cnbufford

What about AQ changes for baby bettas? I have two that are divided in a 2.5 gallon non-cycling tank.


----------



## ao

cnbufford said:


> What about AQ changes for baby bettas? I have two that are divided in a 2.5 gallon non-cycling tank.


congrats  i just got a new one too since mine's all grown up. I would recommend every other day 100% water changes to help then grow faster


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## camille0119

How do you do a 50% water change in a 1 gallon tank? 
I'd just like to know since I got my betta about 2 days ago.


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## Oldfishlady

In a 1gal-I have found it easier to do the stir and dip method with smaller tanks.

I give the substrate a slight stir with a chopstick or woodenspoon-then dip half the water out of the tank using a small plastic cup-Then replace with like temp dechlorinated water.
The water should clear within the hour, if not, then you either missed a water change or overfeeding or overstocked.


----------



## camille0119

thanks.. i'll try it out!


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## cnbufford

My older male betta, Homer, is very combative when I'm trying to cup him to change his aquarium. This event happens 2-3 times a week, usually on the same days, so I was hoping he'd eventually catch on and be cooperative. Well, today I noticed that when he got back in his home, his right ventral fin was slightly torn from the transit. Any suggestions to train this bucking bronco, or if nothing else, a technique to get him out easier?


----------



## ao

I feed my betta whenever he's in the cup. Now he knows, cup time = food time


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## SilverWolf

Hi! So, another newbie! I really tried to read the posts first, its just so much reading/time!

I am setting up my tank still.. So far:

10G LED and in bright indirect daylight. Will be supplementing lighting soon
Filtered, HOB with only a sponge in filter and prefilter sponge too
Soil/sand sub
All live plants, currently 4 rooted, 1 floating (Sorry, I really don't remember the names but I just added a pic to the sticky thread for tank photos) (more coming, namely moss and another rooted plant I don't know the name of)
1 piece of Malaysian Wood
1 betta
heater
thermometer 

I don't know my water parameters yet. I do not have a testing kit but the listed ph is for the city is 7.1-8.0 and water is hard ( http://www.calgary.ca/UEP/Water/Pag...-quality-report/Water-Quality-Parameters.aspx )

Question:

When vacuuming the soil/sand you say to submerse the vacuum all the way and let it sit a second or two. Won't that mix the soil and sand? Is it supposed to be mixed? Sorry, I'm just not grasping this...


----------



## Oldfishlady

I wouldn't vacuum natural planted soil based tanks....If you feel you need to vacuum anything up-use your free hand to kick it up into the water column-then vacuum-You don't want to disturb the soil or roots if you can help it...


----------



## SilverWolf

Ok, that's what I thought! So my only care is water changes right?


----------



## Oldfishlady

Right, however, water changes on a soil based can be different-based on number, species and plant growth itself. Once the soil has started its life underwater and plants thriving-limit water changes-Remember, with soil based it is all about the plants that function as the filtration and if you don't have enough of the right species in active growth-the system can crash. If you haven't already, look over the other sticky in the planted tank section on NPT's for more information.

Hope to see a new thread with pics once you get your NPT setup.


----------



## SilverWolf

Thanks OFL! For the 'right' type of plant, is it generally rooted that I'm looking for? To me rooted = filtration not only from the leaves, but also the roots in the soil. Am I looking at it the right way? The tank is still brand new, how quickly should I see new growth on rooted plants? My floater (hornwart I think it's called) is already growing like crazy and the tank has only been running 3 days. I know it'll take a couple months for the tank to mature, meanwhile I'm still seeing some cloudiness in the water, should I do more changes? (Currently doing 50-75%/day) I'm going to take a sample in to the pet store today (I found one that does liquid testing) to see what my readings are and hope to be able to afford my own kit soon.


----------



## Oldfishlady

Rooted or stem plants is what you need a lot of-at least 75% of the floor planted with stems-then 10-20% floating like the hornwort. The rosette plants are fine too-like your swords, crypts, vals, sags...etc...,however, since these are not big water column feeder or fast growers-you need more stem plants due to their fast growth that in turn makes them big eaters...lol....You should need to make your first trim and re-plant of the stems in 7-10 days. If you still have cloudy water-make 25-50% water only change every day if needed-until the water is no longer cloudy-then back down on the water change frequency to 1-2 times a week and as needed. If you don't have a mass amount of stem plants-I would hold off adding any fish or shrimp-but add common snails-if you don't have trumpet snails-be sure to poke-not stir the soil with something 3-4 times a week the first week. Once you make your first trim-the stem plant roots should be able to provide the oxygen to the soil to prevent anaerobic issues-Make sure and do the daily sniff test too and if it ever smells like rotten eggs....you might have a problem...

Be sure and take 3 different sample of water to be tested and get the numbers and write them down to compare-You need-tank water, source water without additives and source water with additives-tested for Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and if they can get the KH/GH too. 
By having the baseline on the source water with and without additives will tell you if anything is in the source water to start with and if additives are causing any skewed or interactions-to prevent unneeded water changes.


----------



## SilverWolf

Ok, what are some names of common low light stem plants? I def need more of those and I'll pick some up today. I think the other 2 are a crypt and a sword, the 3rd is a grass that I guess I'm not supposed to have in there fully submersed.  Mondo or something like that. I've been poking every day, it that too much?

On the water, I've heard you're supposed to let your source water sit a day before testing, it that true?

Thanks OFL!


----------



## Oldfishlady

Only for the pH so the water can gas out-but not for the others.

Poking everyday is fine too.

Go to the NPT sticky in the plant section for a list of recommended stem plants

I would go ahead and remove the mondo grass-the slow rot-especially if you don't have enough active growing stem plants in a soil based tank-will end up causing more problems.


----------



## SilverWolf

I found them!

>>Najas indica (naja grass)
Cabomba caroliniana(green)
C. piauhyensis (red)
Hygrophila dfformis (westeria)
H. corymbosa (giant hygro)
H, siamensis (thin leaf)
Ludwigia natans
Rotala indica<<

Are they all low light plants?!


----------



## Emstrak

If I missed this, I apologize, but what is the best way to do a 100% water change? I just did a 50% change yesterday but the water is cloudy already. Carl is not acting lethargic but the cloudiness is making me uneasy. On the other hand, I don't want to stress out Carl more than he already may be because we've only had him for less than a week and I've already changed him to a bigger tank once and did a 50% water change. 

Thanks!


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## Oldfishlady

I would do another partial water change and see if that clears the water up any.


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## janenome

it's useful....but i have a question....how often should i do the water change if my tank is 0,5 gallon?


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## Oldfishlady

For a half gallon without filter or live plants-3-weekly...2-50% and 1-90-100%


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## janenome

Oldfishlady said:


> For a half gallon without filter or live plants-3-weekly...2-50% and 1-90-100%


It has living plants...elodea and two floating plants


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## Oldfishlady

janenome said:


> It has living plants...elodea and two floating plants


In that case-as long as the plants are thriving-you see new growth weekly-1-2 times a week partial water changes should maintain water quality in a half gallon with a single adult Betta.


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## janenome

Oldfishlady said:


> In that case-as long as the plants are thriving-you see new growth weekly-1-2 times a week partial water changes should maintain water quality in a half gallon with a single adult Betta.


Thanks for the advice. I found a 1gallon tank,it's still small but it's bigger than the one i have now. The problem is that the previous owner usrd it to store a bag of detegent. I know soap can kill fish...i never used it but this a special case...i was wondering if there was any way to make a deep clean it or make it safe for my betta...i alredady rinsed it a coule times with water and vinegar. Noe im letting it rest for some days with water +vinegar....thats what some told me to do....but i want a second opinon


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## Oldfishlady

The vinegar should cut any soap residue to make it safe to use right away-but letting it air dry won't hurt...


----------



## janenome

Oldfishlady said:


> The vinegar should cut any soap residue to make it safe to use right away-but letting it air dry won't hurt...


Thank you!


----------



## Olympia

And folks we are back online! Thanks to yours truly. 

OFL if you ever see this, don't get mad, think of all the people that need this...


----------



## Bombalurina

Thanks Olympia! We may have lost OFL, but it's nice to know we can still have her knowledge!

Can we have the NPT thread back too? *is greedy*


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## registereduser

:thankyou:


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## Olympia

Yes, haha, I was snooping around and found a way to recover them.


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## finnfinnfriend

Thanks for bringing this thread back!


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## Juditko

So thankful to have this particular thread back, and I hope it makes OFL proud. This particular thread really inspired me to move up to a ten gallon! Thanks, OFL!!


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## kyle89

Olympia is not a super mod but instead god mod lol. Thanks solo much


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## Tabbie82

Agreed^^ God Mod status for Olympia is official!!!


----------



## misty1477

YAY !!! So glad this is back! Can't go wrong with OFL's info. :-D


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## jadaBlu

Umm.... this is falling to the bottom of the list. Shouldn't it be stickied so people can use it and closed since Old Fish Lady won't be answering questions about it?


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## Olympia

Oh I forgot to sticky this one? Will fix. -_-
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## sainthogan

Didn't this used to be stickied to the fish care forum?


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## kyle89

Sticky?


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## logisticsguy

I have tons of respect for OFL. Great to see this thread again.


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## Lostiethatlikesherbetta

When you do 50% changes for a 5 gal. With a live plant how do you clean the gravel?


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## avraptorhal

Thanks!!!! This seems to be a very logical and well documented approach! Thanks again!!!!


----------



## ao

Lostiethatlikesherbetta said:


> When you do 50% changes for a 5 gal. With a live plant how do you clean the gravel?


How do you usually clean the gravel?


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## crowntaillove3

When I do a 100 on my little 2.5 tanks I take out all decorations, the filter, and the fish and I swish CLEAN water around in the tank, only about half full, and I rub the gravel around in the tank. I do this several times or until the water is clean after you swish. When all visible algae is off of the rocks and out of the water, you've done a pretty good job. Then you can fill it up again, put the filter, the decorations, and the fish back in and you are good to go. As for a tank with live plants, I can't help you. Sorry.


----------



## NoviceBettaKeeper98

this is a fantastic guide! As a new betta owner, I wasn't sure what to do! Thanks again!!


----------



## ddicioccio

Thank You for the depth ( No Pun intended ) of that information. I as a newbie think I'm changing the water too often.


----------



## Betta Bonnie

*Betta Bonnie*

This was very good info for me a new Betta owner.  I set up my 2 2.5 gallon tanks last Thursday on Friday after work I bought 2 Bettas at Petco. My tanks each have a filter Tetra Whisper 3i, each have a slim heater some decor and a masamo moss ball. I have two larger cycled aquariums so I used 2 cups of small smooth river rocks from my 18 gallon Community tank. I have the API master test kits and on Sunday and again today my amonia was 1, I did 50% water changes on Sun and today. Is this normal to acumulate this much Amonia in 2 days?


----------



## ao

I thought those filter insets had activated carbon in them. So I really have no idea why the anmonia will be 1. What is coming out from your tap water...? when in doubt, I recommend to do a 100% water change


----------



## Betta Bonnie

My tap water is .25


----------



## countyrd419

Thank you very much Oldfishlady. Rusty's tank is due for a water change and your post is just what I was looking for as a beginner betta fish owner. Is there such thing as a vacuum tank cleaner? Let me check PetSmart to see what they have.


----------



## Hadoken Kitty

countyrd419 said:


> Thank you very much Oldfishlady. Rusty's tank is due for a water change and your post is just what I was looking for as a beginner betta fish owner. Is there such thing as a vacuum tank cleaner? Let me check PetSmart to see what they have.


Welcome to the world of betta keeping!!! When cleaning out gravel, the most used item is a gravel syphon. PetSmart calls it a gravel vacuum. It uses a combination of air pressure and gravity to clean out the nasty poop and left over food from your fish. My favorite type includes a hand-pump to increase this. PetSmart sells a store-brand syphon that I use.

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11123493&f=PAD/psNotAvailInUS/No


----------



## countyrd419

Thank you. Hadoken Kitty. Just saw the picture of the vacuum. I will get either tomorrow or Wednesday.


----------



## Hadoken Kitty

countyrd419 said:


> Thank you. Hadoken Kitty. Just saw the picture of the vacuum. I will get either tomorrow or Wednesday.


Not a problem! Good luck with your new buddy!


----------



## chicklette

I need some advice. I have a male beta in a 2.5 gallon heated and filtered tank. There aren't any live plants in it. How often and what percentage of his water should I change. Every time I test the water, 4 readings are safe, but the water is hard. I live in a rural area. PLEASE, CAN ANYONE OFFER THEIR OPINION?


----------



## crowntaillove3

I do a 50% water change with almost the exact same conditions. 2.5 gallon, filtered, 4 readings are safe, and my water is hard, I don't have live plants, but I live in a suburban area. 50% once a week is what I do. Good luck with your fishy friend!

Edit: in the guide, it tells you to do a 50% twice a week and clean the gravel in one of the two with a siphon, but I just do 1 50% and clean the gravel then. You could take out the extra change, or you could do what the guide says... I kind of went the rebel way. LOL.


----------



## Betta Bonnie

*2.5 Gallon Betta tank*

I have 5 2.5 gallons, Change 50 percent every 3 days. I bought a piece of drift wood from Petco and cut it in 5 about 2 inch pieces. My pH has gone from 8 to 7.6. Hope this helps. I boiled it several times until the water turned clear first.


----------



## chicklette

Thank you crown tail, I took out the gravel, as I find it's easier too see how mesdy the water is without the gravel hiding the waste in.


----------



## Betta Bonnie

*bare bottom*

I like the bare bottoms myself much better. I use the turkey baster to suck up any uneaten food after 5 minutes. I can monitor their waist, as well, that way.


----------



## Armyshortee83

Hi,

I am a new Betta owner. Or I should say that I was a new Betta owner. I bought my son a new female Betta, Hailey, and we did everything right as far as acclimating her and what not. Sadly she had a tiny speck of fish fungus when we bought her. I did not know what to look for as far as a healthy fish. 

I used the medications and did water changes, and poor Hailey girl did not make it.  I bought my son a new 10 gallon tank today, but we have not picked out the new Betta yet. I have been reading that it is better to cycle the tank for 3-4 days. 

I have learned how to establish the tank, but I am confused about the water changes. It says that I should do this:

10+gal with a filter
Weekly 50% with vacuum
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.

My question is how so I do a 50% water change each week. I know that I just cannot take half of the water out and dump new water in. How do I treat the new water? I am sorry if this is a stupid question. I am a beginner, so I would appreciate any and all help.

I am also confused as to what this means, "Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month." Does this mean I simply take the filter out and swish it around in the tank once a month? Do I remove the filter cartridge and swish that around? I seriously doubt that this means I simply swish the entire filter, body and all, as I could be shocked. 

I feel stupid asking these simple questions, but I want to be the best fish Mommy I can be.


----------



## Hadoken Kitty

Armyshortee83 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am a new Betta owner. Or I should say that I was a new Betta owner. I bought my son a new female Betta, Hailey, and we did everything right as far as acclimating her and what not. Sadly she had a tiny speck of fish fungus when we bought her. I did not know what to look for as far as a healthy fish.
> 
> I used the medications and did water changes, and poor Hailey girl did not make it.  I bought my son a new 10 gallon tank today, but we have not picked out the new Betta yet. I have been reading that it is better to cycle the tank for 3-4 days.
> 
> I have learned how to establish the tank, but I am confused about the water changes. It says that I should do this:
> 
> 10+gal with a filter
> Weekly 50% with vacuum
> Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.
> 
> My question is how so I do a 50% water change each week. I know that I just cannot take half of the water out and dump new water in. How do I treat the new water? I am sorry if this is a stupid question. I am a beginner, so I would appreciate any and all help.
> 
> I am also confused as to what this means, "Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month." Does this mean I simply take the filter out and swish it around in the tank once a month? Do I remove the filter cartridge and swish that around? I seriously doubt that this means I simply swish the entire filter, body and all, as I could be shocked.
> 
> I feel stupid asking these simple questions, but I want to be the best fish Mommy I can be.


Hey!!! Welcome to betta-keeping! Sorry that poor Hailey didn't make it! Sometimes they're too far gone by the time we get to them. 

I hope that I can answer as many questions for you as absolutely possible:
1.) Tanks take longer than 3-4 days to cycle. It is actually 3-4 weeks.
2.) You can take the fish out and take out half of the water using a gravel siphon. Then, since the fish is already out, you can simply fill the tank back up. Just treat the water once this is done (before putting the fish back in). 
If you have multiple fish, or find this to be a hassle, you can always get a bucket (or a 5 gallon water jug) and fill and treat that water before pouring it in.
3.) When giving filter media a swish/rinse, I always swish it in the water that I have just taken out of the tank.

Please let me know if I can be of any more help!


----------



## Hallyx

A 10g tank will cycle by itself eventually, if you just make weekly 50% water changes
---siphon half the water out with a siphon made for that purpose, available at your fish store, the small one. Replace with treated water of the same temperature.

The media is the sponge or cartridge that does the filtering. Remove it; swish it around in the _old_ tank water you just removed; then put it back in. Do *NOT *replace or change it; that's where the bacteria live that cycle your tank.

Read the stickie, _Betta specific nitrogen cycle_ in this section.

Get a water test kit. The best cheapest is the API freshwater master test kit available from Amazon for ~$20. Prime is the most-used water conditioner around here. Temperature around 80*. Cover the tank to keep in the warm, moist air that they breath. Get plants and something for him to hide in.


----------



## JamieL

I have a stupid question about rinsing filter media. I just switched the filter media in both my tanks to the fluval biomax rings (http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753126)

When I rinse them, should I just dump them out into my hand, rinse the crud off in the old water and put them back in the filter cartridge? And this won't disturb the bacteria? I just don't want to disrupt the cycle again, I had a nitrite spike, then I was starting to see nitrites in the one tank, and I did something...over cleaned it maybe, and my cycle started over again.


----------



## Destinystar

JamieL said:


> I have a stupid question about rinsing filter media. I just switched the filter media in both my tanks to the fluval biomax rings (http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753126)
> 
> When I rinse them, should I just dump them out into my hand, rinse the crud off in the old water and put them back in the filter cartridge? And this won't disturb the bacteria? I just don't want to disrupt the cycle again, I had a nitrite spike, then I was starting to see nitrites in the one tank, and I did something...over cleaned it maybe, and my cycle started over again.



Hi JamieL let me see if I can help you. If I am understanding your question correctly yes you should just rinse them off in old water from your tank and put them back in the filter cartridge. I am not sure what could have caused your spike unless when you switched out the filter media you lost some bacteria or like you said over cleaned them. Good luck in getting the new cycle going again.


----------



## JamieL

Perseusmom said:


> Hi JamieL let me see if I can help you. If I am understanding your question correctly yes you should just rinse them off in old water from your tank and put them back in the filter cartridge. I am not sure what could have caused your spike unless when you switched out the filter media you lost some bacteria or like you said over cleaned them. Good luck in getting the new cycle going again.


Thank you!


----------



## FirstBetta

Thank you, OFL. Your instruction is one of the most logical I've ever seen, Thanks again.


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## Winged Mermaid

Just read through this whole thread- I learned a lot! Also kept me from making some mistakes. I saw somewhere else for a filtered 5gal (no plants) to do a 100% WC every month (on top of 50% WC every week), but reading through this I see that would be bad for the bacteria. 

So if I wanted to give my tank a good cleaning- mainly take out and rinse down all the gravel to get all the crap out- would it be okay if I siphoned out all of the water, poured 50% of old tank water back in once it's cleaned, then put in the new 50% as usual? I'm thinking by reading OFL's words of wisdom that I could do that and clean the gravel one month, then the next month clean the decor and/or walls of the tank. But not both the gravel and decor or walls to preserve the bacteria balance. Does that sound alright, or am I off?

Thanks


----------



## Hallyx

The life of the nitrifying bacteria and their spread in your tank is a little more complicated than that, Mermaid. 

First o all, OFL's water change protocol is for uncycled tanks and no test kit. If you're concerned with bacteria, I assume you're cycling your tank. Good; that's best for the stock.

In that case, I highly recommend your get a liquid water test kit (API from Amazon for ~$20). Don't clean anything ---especially your filter media-- until your tank is cycled. This will happen automatically. You should test your water every other day or so to ensure your ammonia does not rise >0.25ppm. For the rest of the details of fish-in cycling, read this: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/...ssories/nitrogen-cycle-betta-specific-107771/

Also read the other stickies about cycling for a better understanding of the nitrogen cycle.

A cycled tank is not just for the convenience of the keeper, but for the health and safety of the fish.


----------



## Hallyx

The life of the nitrifying bacteria and their spread in your tank is a little more complicated than that, Mermaid. 

First of all, OFL's water change protocol is for uncycled tanks and no test kit. If you're concerned with bacteria, I assume you're cycling your tank. Good; that's best for the stock.

In that case, I highly recommend your get a liquid water test kit (API from Amazon for ~$20). Don't clean anything ---especially your filter media-- until your tank is cycled. This will happen automatically. You should test your water every other day or so to ensure your ammonia does not rise >0.25ppm. For the rest of the details of fish-in cycling, read this: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/...ssories/nitrogen-cycle-betta-specific-107771/

Also read the other stickies about cycling for a better understanding of the nitrogen cycle.

A cycled tank is not just for the convenience of the keeper, but for the health and safety of the fish.


----------



## shadepixie

I have a 3.5 gallon tank, heated, filtered, with live plants and Marimo. I'll do a 50% water change once a week with water conditioner and enviro-clean. I've had the water tested at Petsmart once a week and will keep doing that. So far they've said everything is fine. I'm using a turkey baster to clean up debris, but will be investing in a siphon vacuum to clean up the mess in the rocks. 
Does this sound appropriate? I last changed his water last Sunday (I'm making it a Sunday thing) and I noticed this morning, pre-water change, a little tear in his dorsal fin. He is very healthy, happy and inquisitive otherwise. I taught him to jump for bloodworms from my hand! 
The basic question is: is a 50% water change once a week for a filtered tank with live plants sufficient?


----------



## Oldfishlady

Spadepixie-IMO/E-yes-50% weekly with or without light vacuum in a planted tank with or without a filter should maintain water quality in a 3.5gal with a single Betta-provided that the plants are actively growing.

Winged Mermaid-With filtered tanks with and without live plants IMO/E don't need 100% water changes. Unfiltered tanks with plants don't need 100% either IMO/E-Regardless of nitrogen cycle stage you don't want to make 100%-with that said-remember very little BB are in the water column itself and making water only changes generally doesn't hurt your cycle-Lots of things can vary too...

The nitrogen cycle or water changes doesn't have to be made to sound so complicated or difficult nor do you need a lot of expensive items to establish the nitrogen cycle/maintain an aquarium for a Betta IMO/E-
Lots and lots of different ways to reach the same goals and while fish keeping isn't an exact science-by understanding the science behind the nitrogen cycle can help make it less intimidating to the average Betta keeper IMO only....


----------



## shadepixie

You are the best for paying such attention to this thread, and answering questions personally. Your knowledge and expertise are sincerely appreciated from this Betta newbie. 
Oh, and I like your doggie.


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## Winged Mermaid

Thanks for the replies! I understand the nitrogen cycle. I just want to know what the best suggestion would be for giving the gravel a good cleaning every once in a while. I know that you can have things _too_ clean, that there's a needed balance there, but we all know how dirty the gravel can get, even with a gravel vac or the stir and dip method (what I'm doing now).

I'm taking cycled and uncycled directions into account because I'm not sure if my tank is cycled yet. I've had it 3 1/2 weeks but used Tetra Safe Start, and haven't ordered my test kit (I plan on ordering that and a gravel vac this week, and am keeping a close eye on my betta for any signs of distress in the mean time). The want to clean the walls or decor is mostly just my minor OCD-ness kicking in haha  So I can forget that. But I would like to know thoughts on a once in a while complete gravel cleaning. Especially once I get a snail.. I hear they're poop machines! O_O It sounds like my previously posted idea isn't sufficient due to not enough bacteria being in the water column though. Thanks OFL for clearing that particular part up  Any suggestions for the gravel issue are most welcome!


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## FirstBetta

A good deal of your BB reside in the substrate (gravel in your case). The BB are sticky and adhere to the substrate, walls, décor, etc. So the vacuuming should not interfere with the cycle.


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## Oldfishlady

shadepixie said:


> You are the best for paying such attention to this thread, and answering questions personally. Your knowledge and expertise are sincerely appreciated from this Betta newbie.
> Oh, and I like your doggie.


Your welcome, however, it has been made very clear by some of the moderators that I am no longer welcome here. This will be my last post as I am sure I will be banned after this anyway......Too bad the new owner puts up with this type of childish behavior.....

Good luck everyone....


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## ao

I'm not sure what you are talking about OFL. We ALL want you to be here 


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## ANHEL123

OFL you are such a big help to so many people. And those many people still need your help!


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## iGoatfish

That's not right! You and indjo have been my go to people for solid breeding info since I started keeping bettas. Old fish lady will you be working with a different site?


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## Betta Bonnie

*Oldfishlady*

Just wanted to say, I read with interest all your posts and think your advice is great.


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## registereduser

Oldfishlady said:


> Your welcome, however, it has been made very clear by some of the moderators that I am no longer welcome here. This will be my last post as I am sure I will be banned after this anyway......Too bad the new owner puts up with this type of childish behavior.....
> 
> Good luck everyone....


I'm pretty much done here too. The lack of appreciation for you is baffling and the photo contest continues to be of no use. Some of the regular posters have a huge concern for their fish yet display such irresponsibility toward cats and dogs. It's become a depressing place more than it is fun. 

I will remain a member and check my PM box now and then because I have become quite fond of a few of my friends :wave:


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## dramaqueen

I'd like to know who Brenda is aiming her comments at, all the mods or just one or two of us. We all value the advice and opinions that she shares with members of this forum. This whole thing is just so unfortunate.


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## ANHEL123

I love , appreciate Oldfishlady so much for all her dedicating and help.I think she know how much people love her from everyone that she helped, from messages in her visitor box and pm's that people sent her with appreciation. I hope she will come back to help many other people and bettas. And i don't understand what is the matter or issue can be, because the only matter that she and many other people are coming daily on this forum dedicating so much time and knowledge to -HELP. I am on the forum for 3 years and at any time i am messaging some people on this forum including Oldfishlady, i always get help. Some people really amaze me including Oldfishlady putting so much time and knowledge helping daily many people. If you care about your loved bettas then all we need just really log in and try to help as much as we can. Those people who do that daily can not overview all thread that are coming daily every minute from people who has no idea what to do next . So please who has enough knowledge to help, JUST LOG IN AND HELP, that all it matter if you love those creatures and don't want them to die at least with the owners that want them. They die a lot in the stores, owners who abandoned them . Bettas world sad enough with out us making a drama,we dont even have time for it ,if you just log in and try to help people who are new to bettas and don't even know how to change the water. Sorry for my long talk and repeating my self. And have fun too, chatting with each other like we all need our time for brake.


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## Jovancheck

So, my tank is in the group "1-4gal with/without filter and with live plants" that says "This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes."...Actually, i have a *2 gallon* tank *with a sponge filter* and with *one plant*, i guess medium growth Microsorum pteropus....And one betta  My question is, is it better to do a 50% changes once or twice a week? Any help is appreciated ;-)


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## ao

Jovancheck said:


> So, my tank is in the group "1-4gal with/without filter and with live plants" that says "This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes."...Actually, i have a *2 gallon* tank *with a sponge filter* and with *one plant*, i guess medium growth Microsorum pteropus....And one betta  My question is, is it better to do a 50% changes once or twice a week? Any help is appreciated ;-)


As your plant is a slow grower I would follow the 1-4gal without filter without live plants water change schedule


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## Jovancheck

Thank you for the information. I forgot to mention that i have a Siphon Gravel Cleaner....Do i use it both times, or just once?


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## ANHEL123

Not sure about siphon because i don't use it. I just do the water changes without that. But when you do water change you need to rinse the filter
To do this, first you want to get a container and put some tank water in it. (NEVER use tap or new water as this will kill your marvelous bacteria colony you have waited so patiently to grow.) Remove the air line and tubing from the sponge. Place the sponge in the container of tank water and gently squeeze a few times. Replace the tube and air line and reset into tank.

And when you do full water change you need to acclimate your betta to the new water to make sure you don't shock him with the temp difference.
Do you need instructions on acclimation?


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## Jovancheck

I don't need, i watched it on YouTube, and i just moved him today to that tank, but now he seems to be a little stressed although i acclimated him first...poor guy


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## ANHEL123

Is he ok now or still stressed?
What are the symptoms?
If he is not doing good, lethargic, refusing to eat, laying on the bottom make another thread in the disease section so more people can see it and help you.


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## Jovancheck

Well he is a little better now...He is swiming for a while, and then he hides in his hole and lays on the bottom....he was much more active these days...so i'm little woried...he eats like always, so that is not a problem...And another thing, his fins are not spread as they were until now..i assume that it's just adaptation to a new environment..


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## Jovancheck

Today he is still depressed...I made a thread as you told me....So please help us if you can 
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=266306


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## AkiBetta

Thank you!

It's been a while since I had betta's and when I did, never knew about this site! This helped answering my long time favorite question "How often do I clean the tank!"


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## countyrd419

Good evening Jovancheck. Did you treat your water with a water treatment before you added your fish back to the tank? If you didn't, it maybe why your fish is listless. Tap water contains chlorine and other additives which are not safe for our betta fishes. The decholorinator treatments such as API Stress Coat helps to remove unwanted additives for our betta fish tanks. You get API water treatments at Petsmart, Petco or Walmart. Hope this helps you out. Happy swimming. Also, post a picture of your betta fish so that a more experience betta fish owner can see what is wrong and reply back to you. Good night.


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## Oldfishlady

*FYI*-After conducting more experiments -I no longer agree with my first findings and recommendation that are written in this sticky-


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## registereduser

Oldfishlady said:


> *FYI*-After conducting more experiments -I no longer agree with my first findings and recommendation that are written in this sticky-


uh-oh! Will you write a new one?


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## Sakura8

OFL, won't you please elaborate on your new findings?


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## Aquatail

Yes, please do. I used this to make my water change schedule.


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## dramaqueen

Can you make a new , updated one to replace this one?


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## DBanana

Oldfishlady said:


> *FYI*-After conducting more experiments -I no longer agree with my first findings and recommendation that are written in this sticky-


I agree with the others. If you find the time and energy it'd be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us (write a book! I'd buy it).


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## FirstBetta

Add me to the list of people begging you to update or rewrite you WC recommendations. The last sticky you wrote was my WC program. It is simple, through and logical.


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## dramaqueen

I like the idea of a book. It would a pretty handy thing to have around to refer to.


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## newtobettas

I have a 10 gallon tank with a filter, so I'm doing a 50% water change weekly and vacuuming the gravel. Do you remove your tank decorations and fake plants and rinse them as well?


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## registereduser

newtobettas said:


> I have a 10 gallon tank with a filter, so I'm doing a 50% water change weekly and vacuuming the gravel. Do you remove your tank decorations and fake plants and rinse them as well?


I move them around to vacuum properly but you don't have to rinse them.


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## Hallyx

By doing 50% changes with vacuum, your tank will eventually cycle. This is a good thing. Keep to your water change schedule and don't wash your decor or tank walls. Nitrifying bacteria grow on surfaces. Let them grow.

This is for a 10g tank. Smaller tanks have different requirements.


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## Jules88

I have my Betta in approx 3-4 gallon bowl (I don't know exactly how much I never measured before I put him in). I have a large live plant and and gravel in the tank. I don't have a filter but I change 25% of the water weekly. My fish is very active and he always eats all his food. I tested the water for ammonia a couple of days after I did a partial water change and the result was 0. 

Does it sound like I'm doing all the right things for my fish. I don't have a heater yet but I live in Australia and it is currently summer so I will consider getting one in winter.


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## Hallyx

You have a water test kit. Good. Let the results determine the frequency of water changes. When you read ANY ammonia, do a 50% water change with conditioner. After a while, you'll learn how often to change water.

Even in summer a heater helps by keeping the water at the *same* temperature _all the time_. This is even more important than keeping it at any given temperature, like 78*.


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## dramaqueen

I have a gravel vac and never could get the darn thing to work.


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## avraptorhal

dramaqueen said:


> I have a gravel vac and never could get the darn thing to work.


 
If you have one that the instructions that came say simply move the gravel tube up and down rapidly. I had the same problem. I bought the rubber bulb that some vacuums come with and attached the bulb in between the gravel tube and the outlet and it worked fine.

I hope this helps.


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## Survivor2013

It was great to know I was doing it right. Little one is sick so I've been cleaning more frequently until he's almost done healing.


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## dramaqueen

Yes, they say to move it up and down and it didn't work. Thanks for the info.


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## Destinystar

I can`t get mine to work either DQ doing the up and down motion, I have to suck on the end to get it started which sounds so nasty, sorry about that ...LOL I love my gravel vac though and would be lost without it. Warning don`t ever put those plastic tubes in really Hot water to clean them, they warp and will not go back together correctly, I had to replace mine because of that. 

I have a 5 gallon cycled tank and do a once a week 50 percent water change with the gravel vac.


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## ao

I think I'm the only one who uses an airline >.>


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## Oldfishlady

dramaqueen said:


> Yes, they say to move it up and down and it didn't work. Thanks for the info.


Try pouring water in it to prime it-then use your thumb as the control valve-open and close as needed to get the water moving while holding over your waste water bucket..That is how I have to prime my 100ft python I use with gravity flow to drain outside...I have a 1gal jug of water to pour in it to prime..gets it going pretty fast....

I finally got all the new water change recommendation written up-along with a new NPT, nitrogen cycle Betta specific, reasons for fin damage with treatments, care on a budget, care in 1gal tanks, reason for SBD with treatment recommendations, difference between S/S with natural treatments, importance of supporting immune response, hard to spawn Betta with tricks and spawning triggers, Betta nutrition from birth to mature Betta and many, many more...Boy, I guess I do need to write a book....A member offered to help me write one a year or so ago...I should take em up on it...Not sure where to put any of this or if it is even wanted anymore....


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## dramaqueen

That's another reason for not cycling a tank. I can't get a gravel vac to work! Lol


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## dramaqueen

Then would you open and close the thumb while moving the vac up and down?


----------



## Oldfishlady

dramaqueen said:


> Then would you open and close the thumb while moving the vac up and down?


Well...now that I think about it you don't have enough hands...lol....to work a control valve while pouring water....lol...You would have use a clip on the end of the hose and clip to your bucket-then pour water in the tube then plunge the siphon into the tank and once the gravity flow started-then grab the end of the hose so you can use your thumb on the end as the control valve...make sense...lol....


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## Hallyx

You could learn to suck-to-start-a-siphon like most of us do. It's a fishkeeper's art. I think everybody ought to know how to do it.


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## DBanana

Oldfishlady said:


> Boy, I guess I do need to write a book....A member offered to help me write one a year or so ago...I should take em up on it...Not sure where to put any of this or if it is even wanted anymore....


I want that SO much. New sticky post?


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## rickey

I was self taught siphoning gasoline as a teen, After a few mouth full of gas, aquarium water seems so benign.

R


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## sandybottom

betta water tastes better than goldfish water.


----------



## Hallyx

rickey said:


> I was self taught siphoning gasoline as a teen, After a few mouth full of gas, aquarium water seems so benign.
> 
> R


That is soooo right. You had me in stitches with that one, Brother Rick.


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## rickey

sandybottom said:


> betta water tastes better than goldfish water.


Keep in mind that no rules are written in stone. It all comes down to what tastes good to you. However ... Goldfish all the way

R


----------



## MattsBettas

I use one of these to start my siphons-







It's from python and was 7$ or something at big als. I was sick of drinking the water and this is so much easier, you just pump it a couple of times with your free hand. 

I use airline, ao. It's super useful for fry tanks. I have to suck that though, but that's not too bad because I can usually avoid drinking any.


----------



## ao

rickey said:


> Keep in mind that no rules are written in stone. It all comes down to what tastes good to you. However ... Goldfish all the way
> 
> R


It does sound like you're all very well versed in the fine art of aquarium water tasting 


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## sandybottom

same methodology as wine tasting. mmm..lovely bouquet.***swish,swish,spit***


----------



## kittenfish

Hmmm all I've ever needed to do is immerse the vacuuming end, opening face up, and lift it out of the water to start my siphon! Never had to drink fish water.


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## sandybottom

but that makes sense,how dare you post something that makes sense?lol!


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## dramaqueen

Eww, fishy poo breath. lol


----------



## futbol1

Oldfishlady said:


> Try pouring water in it to prime it-then use your thumb as the control valve-open and close as needed to get the water moving while holding over your waste water bucket..That is how I have to prime my 100ft python I use with gravity flow to drain outside...I have a 1gal jug of water to pour in it to prime..gets it going pretty fast....
> 
> I finally got all the new water change recommendation written up-along with a new NPT, nitrogen cycle Betta specific, reasons for fin damage with treatments, care on a budget, care in 1gal tanks, reason for SBD with treatment recommendations, difference between S/S with natural treatments, importance of supporting immune response, hard to spawn Betta with tricks and spawning triggers, Betta nutrition from birth to mature Betta and many, many more...Boy, I guess I do need to write a book....A member offered to help me write one a year or so ago...I should take em up on it...Not sure where to put any of this or if it is even wanted anymore....


 
Hi OLF!!

I hope your still reading the posts on here, and randomly answering people. I REALLY hope you read this one as I have a question about WC in a 1 gal unfiltered/unheated bowl: 

I have 2 Bettas, each in his own 1 gal bowl. I have marbles on the bottom and 1 silk plant in each one. I've been doing 100% WC every 4-6 days, without fail now for over 2 years. According to your guidelines, this might be a bit much! But-both my fish have been healthy, never an illness, and my one boy is around 3+ years old. I feed them about 4 pellets a day only.

Should I cut down the WC to about 1x per week at 100%? Like maybe every 7 days? I think I'm being too clean with them, and don't want to create any future health problems with the fish. Your thoughts?


----------



## Hadoken Kitty

MattsBettas said:


> I use one of these to start my siphons-
> View attachment 255242
> 
> It's from python and was 7$ or something at big als. I was sick of drinking the water and this is so much easier, you just pump it a couple of times with your free hand.
> 
> I use airline, ao. It's super useful for fry tanks. I have to suck that though, but that's not too bad because I can usually avoid drinking any.


 lol what a small world. I do the same thing, lol.


----------



## Hallyx

I think two large wc's per week is not enough in a 1g bowl. What are your readings for ammonia just before your wc?

OFL says this:
"1-4gal without a filter or live plants
Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-100%"

I read this as saying. One 50% water only change per week, as well as one 100% (total cleaning) per week.

She also suggests a major (50%) change whenever ammonia reads above 0.25ppm.


----------



## futbol1

Hallyx said:


> I think two large wc's per week is not enough in a 1g bowl. What are your readings for ammonia just before your wc?
> 
> OFL says this:
> "1-4gal without a filter or live plants
> Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-100%"
> 
> I read this as saying. One 50% water only change per week, as well as one 100% (total cleaning) per week.
> 
> She also suggests a major (50%) change whenever ammonia reads above 0.25ppm.


Thanks for responding Hallyx!!

Wow-so I should be doing 2 complete (100%) wc's within a 7 day period? Guess I misread OFL's original post for a 1-4 gallon bowl. 

What about the good bacteria then? Wouldn't I be removing too much of this with that many water changes? (I know OFL has said this could be a problem) As I mentioned, my fish have remained healthy, so I don't think it's been affecting them at all.

Honestly, I'm embarrassed to admit I don't even own an ammonia testing kit, and that's only because I've always changed the water frequently. Do you think it's necessary to still test for this in 1 gallon bowls?

Again, TX for your response. I'll wait to hear back from you


----------



## Hallyx

Concerns about "good" bacteria (nitrifying bacteria) only apply to cycled tanks. If you're cleaning your tank (100% wc) once a week, you're getting rid of any bacteria that may have developed during the week. This is good, because you're not monitoring for ammonia. 

The bacteria needs circulation and air in order to develop. You provide neither of these in an unfiltered rank. So ammonia is allowed to increase between wc's. How much? You'll only know by testing your water for ammonia. 

I'll try to find time later to give you a better answer.


----------



## ANHEL123

I have three bettas that each live in a one gall tank. I do 100% water changes every 4-5 days. Somehow i skip on 50% , actually never did it. Some people do partial water changes along with full water changes, and some people prefer not to at all. I really think its just depends on preference or even habit. I don't see anything wrong with that and the proof is that we all have pretty old bettas. 3 + is a good age for a betta So I really think every 6 days is fine as long as the food does not sink to the bottom. I am always really careful with food. I feed one pellet at the time and wait until fish eats it, then i give another pellet. If i feed frozen food i do it the day of the water change. I don't fast my bettas but i don't overfeed them either. Going to repeat myself ,sorry, I really think* futbol1 * if your fish lived to 3 + years then you do something right so keep doing a good job! I also have pretty old bettas in my one gall tanks

My one betta at work i have problem to couch, so i change his water every 6 days. But i have turkey buster that i am using only for his tank. If i see poop or a pellet at the bottom of the tank i take it out with a turkey buster. I rinse that turkey buster after each use and keep it dry inside of the one gall bucked.


----------



## Aquatail

Hallyx, I thought it was possible for a tank to cycle even if it doesn't have a filter due to the bacteria growing on other things like the tank walls and decorations?


----------



## futbol1

Hallyx said:


> Concerns about "good" bacteria (nitrifying bacteria) only apply to cycled tanks. If you're cleaning your tank (100% wc) once a week, you're getting rid of any bacteria that may have developed during the week. This is good, because you're not monitoring for ammonia.
> 
> The bacteria needs circulation and air in order to develop. You provide neither of these in an unfiltered rank. So ammonia is allowed to increase between wc's. How much? You'll only know by testing your water for ammonia.
> 
> I'll try to find time later to give you a better answer.


Thanks Hallyx! I better understand now about the whole bacteria thing. So, basically, ammonia would be my biggest issue, and with frequent WC's, I should be able to keep that in check.


----------



## futbol1

ANHEL123 said:


> I have three bettas that each live in a one gall tank. I do 100% water changes every 4-5 days. Somehow i skip on 50% , actually never did it. Some people do partial water changes along with full water changes, and some people prefer not to at all. I really think its just depends on preference or even habit. I don't see anything wrong with that and the proof is that we all have pretty old bettas. 3 + is a good age for a betta So I really think every 6 days is fine as long as the food does not sink to the bottom. I am always really careful with food. I feed one pellet at the time and wait until fish eats it, then i give another pellet. If i feed frozen food i do it the day of the water change. I don't fast my bettas but i don't overfeed them either. Going to repeat myself ,sorry, I really think* futbol1 * if your fish lived to 3 + years then you do something right so keep doing a good job! I also have pretty old bettas in my one gall tanks
> 
> My one betta at work i have problem to couch, so i change his water every 6 days. But i have turkey buster that i am using only for his tank. If i see poop or a pellet at the bottom of the tank i take it out with a turkey buster. I rinse that turkey buster after each use and keep it dry inside of the one gall bucked.


Thanks ANHEL!

Sounds like we do pretty similar wc/feeding routines with our fish! So I guess if it's not broke, don't fix it!

Guess I'll stick with the every 4-6 day changes, as they have been working fine for me.

I'm dealing with a new tailbiting issue now with my younger Betta, so that's my new priority now. Did you ever have this with any of your fish?


----------



## ANHEL123

Yes i would not change anything. You have 2 bettas that lived old enough with those water changes schedule , i have old bettas with the same water changes so looks like we do something right

Tail biters. Not really experienced with my own fish. I had one that actually died a few month ago. He was 4 years old . He bit his tail about 7 times only. So i was lucky with him. Not really sure why he bit and why he stopped biting it. I had silk plants in his tank, glass thermometer, a few suction cups to distract him, toys outside of his tank. I think i did change the location of the tank once, i don't remember. 

Tail bitters can be a habit, some guys just keep doing it after they started. People recommending to rearrange the decor,add more hiding places, add toys(some people use plastic bottle tops off soda bottles). If you have light try to see if it bother him; if the tank has a lot of light from outside may be it also bothers him. Someone said that floating plants helps sometimes. 
With tail biters , if you can't stop him , check on his tail daily to make sure its not getting infected. Infection: you don't want to see '' smudged'',black discolored , frayed edges, bloody tips.

If you decide to buy live plants please quarantine them in the water for a wk I know i am dramatic but i always afraid people can buy live plants that carry ich on them. I know its happens rarely but you can be the one that it happened to. If you trust your store and sure they don't keep the plants in the same tank with fish then its fine. So just keep plants in the water for a wk or longer in case it has parasites on them . Parasites dies without a host.


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## harrypotter

When doing water changes, I have always added the conditioner to the new water and let sit 12 hours before doing a 100% water change. Is this necessary? Or can I just change the water right now? (Sick betta, I would have peace of mind if I did a water change but I'm not sure he has 12 hours left in him)


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## ao

the water conditioner works right away, there is no need to let it sit  I would say to go ahead and change out his water slowly. Try to have his new water at the same temperature as the old!


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## futbol1

ANHEL123 said:


> Yes i would not change anything. You have 2 bettas that lived old enough with those water changes schedule , i have old bettas with the same water changes so looks like we do something right
> 
> Tail biters. Not really experienced with my own fish. I had one that actually died a few month ago. He was 4 years old . He bit his tail about 7 times only. So i was lucky with him. Not really sure why he bit and why he stopped biting it. I had silk plants in his tank, glass thermometer, a few suction cups to distract him, toys outside of his tank. I think i did change the location of the tank once, i don't remember.
> 
> Tail bitters can be a habit, some guys just keep doing it after they started. People recommending to rearrange the decor,add more hiding places, add toys(some people use plastic bottle tops off soda bottles). If you have light try to see if it bother him; if the tank has a lot of light from outside may be it also bothers him. Someone said that floating plants helps sometimes.
> With tail biters , if you can't stop him , check on his tail daily to make sure its not getting infected. Infection: you don't want to see '' smudged'',black discolored , frayed edges, bloody tips.
> 
> If you decide to buy live plants please quarantine them in the water for a wk I know i am dramatic but i always afraid people can buy live plants that carry ich on them. I know its happens rarely but you can be the one that it happened to. If you trust your store and sure they don't keep the plants in the same tank with fish then its fine. So just keep plants in the water for a wk or longer in case it has parasites on them . Parasites dies without a host.


Such great info-thanks again! Your fish get such great care-we'll have to talk more often so I could get more advice from you!!

My younger Betta just started this biting recently, and I've only had him since late August. We went away on Friday, came back Sunday afternoon. When I went to the tank to feed him, I was shocked at the condition of his fins. He was also RAVENOUS-as if he hadn't eaten in a month!

I think maybe 2 things caused this new behavior:Me being away and not giving him the usual attention, and he became stressed and confused; Or, he was just hungry and took it out on his tail.

He seemed to love his 1 gallon tank, but I made a decision today to upgrade to a 2 gallon. My older Betta loves his 1 gallon, and never tailbit, so I'm leaving him in that.

I put him in the new 2 gallon today, added some silk plants, and API Stresscoat along with a pinch of Kosher salt. He doesn't seem to be any different in the bigger tank; No more tailbiting, as far as I can see. But I have my eye on him.

Another poster told me to do daily 100% WC's with the Stresscoat and salt for the next week until his fins start to heal. Do you agree with this? It sounds like a good treatment plan to me.

How often would you recommend 100% water changes on a 2 gallon tank for the future? I figure maybe every 7 days? But until the fins heal, I'll do the daily changes, even though that's more difficult in the bigger tank.

I do worry that this biting will become a habit now, and I really hope it doesn't. I guess only time will tell.

Thanks again for your valuable advice!!


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## harrypotter

aokashi said:


> the water conditioner works right away, there is no need to let it sit  I would say to go ahead and change out his water slowly. Try to have his new water at the same temperature as the old!


Thank you!! I will change his water right now. Fingers cross it makes him perk up some.


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## Hallyx

aokashi said:


> the water conditioner works right away, there is no need to let it sit ...


Not only is there no need, but letting conditioned water sit actually reduces the effectiveness of the conditioner.


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## ANHEL123

futbol1 said:


> Such great info-thanks again! Your fish get such great care-we'll have to talk more often so I could get more advice from you!!
> 
> My younger Betta just started this biting recently, and I've only had him since late August. We went away on Friday, came back Sunday afternoon. When I went to the tank to feed him, I was shocked at the condition of his fins. He was also RAVENOUS-as if he hadn't eaten in a month!
> 
> I think maybe 2 things caused this new behavior:Me being away and not giving him the usual attention, and he became stressed and confused; Or, he was just hungry and took it out on his tail.
> 
> He seemed to love his 1 gallon tank, but I made a decision today to upgrade to a 2 gallon. My older Betta loves his 1 gallon, and never tailbit, so I'm leaving him in that.
> 
> I put him in the new 2 gallon today, added some silk plants, and API Stresscoat along with a pinch of Kosher salt. He doesn't seem to be any different in the bigger tank; No more tailbiting, as far as I can see. But I have my eye on him.
> 
> Another poster told me to do daily 100% WC's with the Stresscoat and salt for the next week until his fins start to heal. Do you agree with this? It sounds like a good treatment plan to me.
> 
> How often would you recommend 100% water changes on a 2 gallon tank for the future? I figure maybe every 7 days? But until the fins heal, I'll do the daily changes, even though that's more difficult in the bigger tank.
> 
> I do worry that this biting will become a habit now, and I really hope it doesn't. I guess only time will tell.
> 
> Thanks again for your valuable advice!!


lol futbol1 you have as much experience as i do with your 3+ y old bettas. I love this forum , you can find great advice here. I am learning something new every day from reading other people posts

Water changes every 6 days for 2 gall is fine. Again no food on the bottom. If you think that some food sinking to the bottom you will need more water changes. 

For your tail biter. You do not need to do daily water changes . You do not need to add salt . Salt is very beneficial when fish has mild fin rot or any other mild infection, otherwise you don't need to stress him with daily water changes and salt. If it tail biting ,the only one preventative care is clean water. You do not want to treat your fish every time he bites his tail. Some sites recommending to add aquarium salt on regular basis which is wrong. Salt long term doesn't prevent disease or parasites ,and long term use can cause resistant pathogens/parasites issue ...and long term non-therapeutic dosage can limit it ability to work for treatment when needed. So do not add any salt unless you know he has infection. And when you use salt it should be right therapeutic dosage and duration of the treatment.

Stress coat is fine to use. Many people recommending to use it for damaged fins. Its had tea tree oil and good for a healing.Stress coat also a water conditioner so i think you don't need to use it all the time since you adding a water conditioner already. I guess you can use stress coat while his fins are damaged from the biting. Someone please correct me if i am wrong.

Its funny that you mentioned that he might be hungry that why he bit his fins. Someone here wrote that it also can be a cause of biting sometimes. How much you feed them? What brand of the food you feeding them? Did you ever tried to feed them frozen food? 

I am so sorry i really don't know if all this discussion we should make another thread since this thread is for Oldfishlady water changes. I guess if you want you can make another thread and let us know so we know to check on it


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## futbol1

ANHEL: I just bumped up a thread I have on fish diseases and emergencies titled 'Just returned from a 2 day trip to a Betta with some tail missing'. We can continue this topic on that one, and I'll also answer your questions about the foods I feed him on that too. Yes, this thread is old so best we move off it!!


----------



## RedResilience

Hello! I am brand new here.  I just got a betta fish the other day. This is the type of tank I have:

Tanks:
1-4gal without a filter or live plants
Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-100%

What does the 1-100% mean? ><

Thanks!


----------



## Hallyx

A 100^ water change means removing the fish and totally cleaning everythjing in the tank, including the substrate. I find this procedure stressful for fish and keeper, so I always recommend a minimum 2g tank which can be cycled.


----------



## RedResilience

Hallyx said:


> A 100^ water change means removing the fish and totally cleaning everythjing in the tank, including the substrate. I find this procedure stressful for fish and keeper, so I always recommend a minimum 2g tank which can be cycled.


Oh ok. That is true... I work at PetSmart so maybe I'll get a nice 2-5 gallon once I save a little money. They have some good fish sales now though... Thank you!


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## lilphischee

*2.5 gal tank with live plant/ unfiltered*

My tank is 2.5 gals and has a recovering fishy. He had red sores (thankfully gone and healing) and fin rot (healing now). We were changing his water quite often so I have relaxed since he bas been healing. How often should I change water with my tank without a filter but with a live plant?


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## ANHEL123

For your tank you can do either 2-50% and one full water change a wk OR you can do what i do . I do one full water change every 5 days. 
Make sure you acclimate him when you do a full water change(the new water temperature has to approximately match his water temperature). Let us know if you need any instructions on that.
Do you think he still has fin rot?"smudged" , darkened , ragged or frayed edges, fins falling apart in chunks-this indicates fin rot.
If they are the same color as his body, or have white/clear tips, this indicates normal growth
If he still has fin rot i would do more water changes and if you have stress coat , it would help with healing. Did you treat him with medications or salt?

Good nutritional food will help with recovery . What kind of food you feeding him? 
Also frozen blood worms are really good source of the protein and good for an immune system. 
Bloodworms - Cubes - 3.5 oz. - Frozen | thatpetplace.com


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## lilphischee

Thank you, what does 2-50% mean? 20-50? Also the very first post in this thread says you shouldnt do 100% changes with live plants, did you mean 100% when you said 'full' water changes?. I am thinking of getting a vaccuum to help reduce stuff on the bottom. Also here is a picture of fishy from this morning, I was told by someone on another forum that he looks to be on the mend. You can see the recent treatment via this thread here Fungus? Help. He eats pellets. He doesnt like any other type of food not even bloodworms. We have trued and he doesnt eat them. Only eats pellets (loves them).


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## futbol1

lilphischee said:


> Thank you, what does 2-50% mean? 20-50? Also the very first post in this thread says you shouldnt do 100% changes with live plants, did you mean 100% when you said 'full' water changes?. I am thinking of getting a vaccuum to help reduce stuff on the bottom. Also here is a picture of fishy from this morning, I was told by someone on another forum that he looks to be on the mend. You can see the recent treatment via this thread here Fungus? Help. He eats pellets. He doesnt like any other type of food not even bloodworms. We have trued and he doesnt eat them. Only eats pellets (loves them).
> View attachment 300210
> 
> 
> View attachment 300218
> [/quote
> 
> 2-50% is 2 half tank water changes a week, meaning you empty just half the water in the tank twice a week and add that half back with fresh water. And a full water change does mean 100% of the water emptied out and changed.
> 
> Can't help with your question about a full water change with live plants, but ANHEL is one of the forum experts on here and will give you advice with everything else.
> 
> Your fish looks great by the way!!


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## ANHEL123

Sorry it took me ling time to write since i am at woks and busy, just saw your post futbol1 Sorry if i will repeat what futbol said 
I think it also a good idea to wait for Taeanna reply since she was helping you already in your other thread. 2-50% I meant to do 2- 50% water changes and one- 100%( full water change) PER week. And looks like he is improving if he went from not eating since 1/29 to eating .I would continue what you was doing with frequent water changes , stress coat and not sure if you still using almond tea leaf. 
Are you still adding Quick start though? You really don't need it.
About full water changes with life plants - people don't recommend to do full water changes if you have heavy planted tank which is not what you have. So you can continue with full water changes.
He looks better ,and i think there are fins regrowth on the first picture. How long ago the second picture from?


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## Hallyx

It's OK if he eats only pellets. For fin recovery, he should get the best quality pellets you can buy..... New Life Spectrum Betta pellets or Omega One Betta Buffet.


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## tlatch89

I have a question about the 1-4 gallon water changes with live plants and a filter. I re scaped my tank and drain about 85% of the water. There is no guide in the first post about water changes with live plants.

What is recommended? It seems like the aquarium with healthy live plants doesn't care if you change the water or not, the filter is just there for cleaning debris, and the plants take care of the ammonia and chemical filtration.

Normally I do 1 50% every week, but like I said there is no guide to follow based on whats healthiest for the fish, plants, and tank in general.


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## Hallyx

With a planted tank the primary reason for water changes is to remove dissolved waste that the plants don't use, and to replace minerals that the livestock and plants use up. A weekly 50% wc fulfills these requirements. 

In larger tank sizes you can go longer, but for a 1g to 4g I'd stick with weekly.


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## Graceful

> Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-100%


What does the 1 mean? :question:

Twice weekly 50% I understand, but what's that 1 got to do with it?

And what's "water only"?? 

I'm doing 100% WCs for my betta's 1-gallon unfiltered... is that right or is it overkill?


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## Hallyx

A 100% wc means removing the fish and cleaning the tank, decor and gravel. It's too much to do every other day. Once a week is more than enough. That's what the 1 means. I'm sure every other week is plenty if you do a water only change every other day. That means not cleaning everything, just changing the water. You should also remove any leftover food and waste with a turkey baster as often as needed.

For a 1g tank, you ought to change more than half the water every other day dosing with Prime. 

If you have a test kit, you can determine your own wc schedule.


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## crash37

Ok, I am terribly confused because I keep hearing different things. For a 1g no plants, no filtered, how often do you clean? Because, if I'm reading it right, OFL says 1-50% and 1-100% weekly. Is that correct or should it be more than that?


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## futbol1

I have 3 Bettas all in 1gallon tanks. Here's what I do as far as cleaning: every 3-4 days, I do 100% water changes. I remove the fish, empty the water, rinse marbles and silk plants in hot water, then I wipe out the tank with toweling. Replace marbles and plant, refill with tap water, adding 2-3 drops of conditioner. Replace fish, done. I never do the 50% changes because I feel my water change schedule is more than enough.

This takes me about 20 minutes for all 3 fish, so its not a big job for me at all. My fish have never been sick, and are very healthy and active

Also, in between water changes I remove all the poop with a turkey baster, so I never have anything just sitting and polluting the water.


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## Hallyx

OK, Crash, here's the true but complicated answer.

Depending on what and how much he's being fed , and how much daily waste removal you do, a healthy, active Betta can produce from 0.10ppm to 0.25ppm ammonia into a 1g volume in a day. This would suggest a daily 50% wc to be conservative. Prime detoxifies ammonia for 24 to 48 hours. Since the buildup takes place in 24 hours, you can extend the wc period to every other or third day, if you use Prime on non-water change days.

Considering the above, I must respectfully disagree with OFL's 1-gallon-tank recommendations as being to small and too few.

The limitations and dangers of a 1g tank frighten me. If Betta weren't such tough adaptable fish, we could never keep them that way.


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## futbol1

Hallyx said:


> OK, Crash, here's the true but complicated answer.
> 
> Depending on what and how much he's being fed , and how much daily waste removal you do, a healthy, active Betta can produce from 0.10ppm to 0.25ppm ammonia into a 1g volume in a day. This would suggest a daily 50% wc to be conservative. Prime detoxifies ammonia for 24 to 48 hours. Since the buildup takes place in 24 hours, you can extend the wc period to every other or third day, if you use Prime on non-water change days.
> 
> Considering the above, I must respectfully disagree with OFL's 1-gallon-tank recommendations as being to small and too few.
> 
> The limitations and dangers of a 1g tank frighten me. If Betta weren't such tough adaptable fish, we could never keep them that way.



So is Prime actually different than conditioner?And should this be used instead of conditioner with each water change? If so, for me that would mean if I started using Prime, then I assume it would be adequate enough to keep the ammonia levels down in my 3 tanks in between my 3-4 day water change schedule, which would make it even healthier for the Betta. Do you agree with this?

Also, should I switch to Prime and ditch my current Aqueon water Conditioner?

I know your not a proponent of Gallon tanks. But honestly, they aren't as terrible as they sound if maintained properly, and many of us on here do take the time to do this. In order to maintain them properly, lots of practice and research needs to be done on the correct way to do this, which is something many new Betta owners neglect to do, resulting in sick or dead fish. Another problem with these smaller tanks is people refuse to take the time to keep up to the water changes. And when this happens, it makes it look bad for ALL small tank owners. In simple terms, If you don't have the time, don't buy the fish.

I feel if new fish owners knew the real amount of time and maintenance that was involved in smaller tanks, they would think twice about using them in the first place.

I know for a fact there are many other members on here that use Gallon tanks, but for whatever reason some of you stay mainly quiet about it or don't discuss it on here much. So if any of you read this, please chime in and let me know what your WC routine is and what works for you.


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## Hallyx

futbol1 said:


> So is Prime actually different than conditioner?....
> Also, should I switch to Prime and ditch my current Aqueon water Conditioner?


Prime is an excellent water conditioner from Seachem. Along with Ammolock, Stresscoat, Aqueon (like you use) and very few others, it has the ability to lock ammonia into a special molecule which is safe for your fish. Most of us like Prime best because it is concentrated, so it's a better value for the money, as well as being easier to dose by the drop.



futbol1 said:


> I know your not a proponent of Gallon tanks. But honestly, they aren't as terrible as they sound if maintained properly, and many of us on here do take the time to do this. .... In simple terms, If you don't have the time, don't buy the fish.


I absolutely respect your outlook. And I admire the commitment and discipline you need to safely run 1g tanks. Member, ANHEL, is one of my favorite people on here. She keeps several 1 and 1.5g tanks> Her fish are healthy and long-lived. I know it can be done ... if the keeper has the right attitude.



futbol1 said:


> I feel if new fish owners knew the real amount of time and maintenance that was involved in smaller tanks, they would think twice about using them in the first place.


I agree 100%. It sounds strange to a new member that it's easier and arguably healthier to run a larger tank. But, as you know, keeping a 1g tank is really better done by a more experienced keeper.



futbol1 said:


> I know for a fact there are many other members on here that use Gallon tanks, but for whatever reason some of you stay mainly quiet about it ...


It may be that someone with enough experience to run a 1g knows it's not for beginners. But they'd rather not suffer the criticism from the less-experienced members for whom 1g tanks are still beyond their understanding or acceptance.


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## futbol1

Hallyx said:


> Prime is an excellent water conditioner from Seachem. Along with Ammolock, Stresscoat, Aqueon (like you use) and very few others, it has the ability to lock ammonia into a special molecule which is safe for your fish. Most of us like Prime best because it is concentrated, so it's a better value for the money, as well as being easier to dose by the drop.
> 
> 
> 
> I absolutely respect your outlook. And I admire the commitment and discipline you need to safely run 1g tanks. Member, ANHEL, is one of my favorite people on here. She keeps several 1 and 1.5g tanks> Her fish are healthy and long-lived. I know it can be done ... if the keeper has the right attitude.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree 100%. It sounds strange to a new member that it's easier and arguably healthier to run a larger tank. But, as you know, keeping a 1g tank is really better done by a more experienced keeper.
> 
> 
> 
> It may be that someone with enough experience to run a 1g knows it's not for beginners. But they'd rather not suffer the criticism from the less-experienced members for whom 1g tanks are still beyond their understanding or acceptance.


Thank you for the Seachem suggestion...I will be switching to that as soon as my bottle of Aqueon runs out.

I agree 100% with your response. I also greatly respect your opinions and suggestions...you are always very courteous and kind to other members, while offering solid, sensible advice to many people that need help. I appreciate all the advice you've given me as well.

Yes, ANHEL is one of my favorites, too(ANHEL-are you reading this...?) She's given me TONS of great advice about 1 gallon bowl maintenance, while stressing the importance of clean water and frequent WC's. I've been following the same WC and feeding schedule as she does with her fish since I joined this forum, so I know I'm doing all the right stuff. In fact, like her, I have an older Betta who will be closing in on 4 this Summer, and I know this isn't typical for fish keepers unless they're experienced and know what they're doing.

Yes, I know why a lot of the 1 gallon tank owners are really hiding on here..he..he...They don't want it to be known that they keep these smaller tanks for fear of being criticized or looked down on by more experienced members. That doesn't bother me. But I think they should show themselves more on here because their advice would be really helpful to new members who have these smaller tanks:-D

Okay-off to do my WC's now.......!


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## crash37

Well I do have stress coat, so that should help with the ammonia, right?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## futbol1

crash37 said:


> Well I do have stress coat, so that should help with the ammonia, right?
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Yes, it will. I use Aqueon (for now anyway until I run out-then I'm switching to Seachem) and I just add 2-3 drops with each water change. I'm not sure if your supposed to add any extra in between WC's, but I never do.


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## crash37

Ok, so, if I were to do a 100% wc every Monday and Thursday using stress coat, in a 1g heated, non filtered tank, would that be good? My betta lives in my office so I'm not around on weekends to clean him.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## futbol1

Yes, that should be fine. Since the Stresscoat neutralizes ammonia for 24-48 hours (as Hallyx said,) that will keep the water in good shape between your 100% changes. Just try to baste out the poop and any excess food on Fridays, right before you leave work (maybe keep a turkey baster somewhere there) and you should be good to go until Monday
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## crash37

futbol1 said:


> Yes, that should be fine. Since the Stresscoat neutralizes ammonia for 24-48 hours (as Hallyx said,) that will keep the water in good shape between your 100% changes. Just try to baste out the poop and any excess food on Fridays, right before you leave work (maybe keep a turkey baster somewhere there) and you should be good to go until Monday
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Awesome. Thanks so much for your help!!! Any other good advice for keeping a good 1g?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## ANHEL123

Looks like everyone resolve their concerns I always follow all posts in this thread. Thank you futbol and Hallyx i am blushing and flattered


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## DenaTaggart

*Please help. Need help with a cloudy tank*

Not sure what is wrong or what to do to fix. My 2.5 gallon filtered split tank all of a sudden turned really cloudy and has green alge growing in it. I took the water to PetCo for testing and they said it is perfect. What is up with this????? 
PLEASE HELP


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## DenaTaggart

Thanks for all the information. Here is my new planted 10 gallon and my new sweet boy Nemo.


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## futbol1

Sorry no one responded back to you.

I'm not familiar with planted tanks (I have silk plants in mine) so I can't offer any advice to you. Maybe the algae is being caused by your live plants??

As long as your water tested out fine, and your Betta seems healthy, I wouldn't worry too much. Just maybe clean your tank out more often.

You could always start a thread about this in the diseases and emergency section- You will definitley get more responses there.

Your fish is very pretty-good luck!


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## FirstBetta

Live plants usually help with the containment of algae by out competing for the available nutrients. How long are the lights on in the tank? Algae can be controlled by reducing the light and/or the nutrients available to them.

I've discovered that food that the fish doesn't eat will be come food for the plants and/or algae. If you treat the algae like you would a live plant it usually can be contained.


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## ANHEL123

+1
Dena Nemo is beautiful ! Is he the one who was in that 2.5 gall tank?
How much water changes you planning to do in your 10 gall tank?


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## myexplodingcat

I have a 1.4 gal with a filter and a small java fern and I'm doing half water changes every two or three days. I use filtered tap water that's been left to stand for two or three days (I refill my pitcher after a water change), but no water conditioner. Is that about right? It seems to be keeping the tank clean and non-smelly so far, but I haven't had it long.


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## Hallyx

If you're on a municipal water supply (as opposed to a well), it's likely that your water is protected with chloramine. This is hazardous to your livestock and it will not disperse by aging like chlorine does.

You really should be using a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia. Prime by Seachem is the best and the best value because it's concentrated.


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## Flitfloat

Hi-
Thanks for this. I'm new to the beta world, so this is helpful. Just curious about this: "Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month."
Do I take old tank water out and use it to rinse the filter?


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## Hallyx

When you have a bucket of tank-water that you removed during a water change. That's the time and place to rinse the media.


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## shyanne

Okay I have a Top Fin 10 power filter, and when she says swish the filter media what does she mean by that? In the filter it has a black sponge thing and a carbon thing. 
Also how often do I change the carbon thing, it says every 6-8 weeks but somewhere else it said only if it is falling apart? I've had it running for about 2 months and I haven't changed it yet. 
Sorry about all the "thing", idk what they are called lol.


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## Hallyx

The filter media/cartridge/pad/foam/insert/thing can be removed and swished in old tankwater (I squeeze mine a bit to remove particles.) Your bacteria is stuck in there; you won't lose it. 

But, because your hard-earned bacteria live in there, you shouldn't replace it unless you have to.

As for the carbon, it's not really necessary. Cheaper and more effective to replace it with AQ foam.


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## avraptorhal

+1^


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## shyanne

So the filter media/cartridge/pad/foam/insert/thing is the sponge, right?







And if I go to petsmart I just get something like this to replace the carbon cartridge? ^
Thats the same thing as the sponge I already have in there, so I would have 2 sponges/foam. 
Changing the carbon wouldn't affect the cycle I have going, correct?
Thanks for helping btw, i'm not a pro on the cycle thing lol! :lol: :lol:


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## Hallyx

I guess that makes it the "filter media/cartridge/pad/foam/insert/SPONGE/thing/"

You want the media compartment entirely filled with sponge so that the water is forced to pass through it.


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## shyanne

Lol! And okay, thank you soo much!! I'm going to message you about another question I have thats not related to this thread.


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## futbol1

myexplodingcat said:


> I have a 1.4 gal with a filter and a small java fern and I'm doing half water changes every two or three days. I use filtered tap water that's been left tttto stand for two or three days (I refill my pitcher after a water change), but no water conditioner. Is that about right? It seems to be keeping the tank clean and non-smelly so far, but I haven't had it long.


That sounds fine! 

I do 100% changes on my gallon tanks every 4-5 days, and mine are all unfiltered. So between your filter and every 2-3 day half changes, you should be good to go. I always go by smell too-once the water gets any kind of odor to it, I change it right away. But that never happens because I keep my tanks very clean.


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## pfenty

Thanks !!!


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## BlueLacee

Awsome, nicely layed out and dummy proof. You just taught multiple people something


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## spiritbettalady

1-4gal with a filter
Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-50% with substrate cleaning by vacuum or stir and dip method.
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month

Because I am new I am not understanding the fish language yet. Can you please explain this to me in more simple terms? Especially stir and dip and 1-50%. Most appreciated.


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## Hallyx

It means to stir the substrate a little to loosen the waste, then dip it out with a large cup. This is really inefficient. 

Better you should buy a small siphon from the fish store. As you're removing water, the suction is used to vacuum the substrate. Do this every water change.

1-50% is a once per week 50% water change.

If you change half your water twice per week (dosing Prime @ 2-drops/gal) you tank will "cycle"in a cupople of months. This is what you want to happen. Dose Prime @ 1-drop/gal/day until then.


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## spiritbettalady

Thank you so much Hally. Is Prime what most people are using? Should I be testing the PH in a 2.5 gallon?


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## Hallyx

Most of us use Prime because it's an excellent declorinator and ammoni-locker. Detoxifying ammonia is important in a small and/or cycling tank. It's a good value, because it's concentrated. It's also easy to dose: by the drop.

The pH is probably not critical but, if you're cycling that 2.5g tank, you really ought to have a liquid test kit for safety. This is what most of us use:
Amazon.com : API Freshwater Master Test Kit : Aquarium Test Kits : Pet Supplies

A 2.5g tank is right on the cusp. You can cycle it or you can keep it unfiltered with just 2-50% weekly water changes with Prime (and an occasional thorough cleaning.) Your choice.

Welcome to the forum.


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## MantisFTW

Could someone explain what swishing the filter media is? Does that literally mean taking the old filter cartridge out, setting it in the tank, and swishing it until the stuff comes off? If so I really don't understand why that would be a good thing. :-? Im used to just taking the old cartridge out and putting a new one in.


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## beautiful Betta

MantisFTW said:


> Could someone explain what swishing the filter media is? Does that literally mean taking the old filter cartridge out, setting it in the tank, and swishing it until the stuff comes off? If so I really don't understand why that would be a good thing. :-? Im used to just taking the old cartridge out and putting a new one in.


Hi, This how to give the filter media/sponge a clean. You normally do this when cleaning your tank. However I don't do mine every week, I do my filter media about once a month. And you don't actually do this in your tank, that would be putting the dirt removed back in the tank and likely sucked back into the filter so waste of time cleaning, lol. But you do use the tank water that you are going to throw out so you don't destroy any beneficial bacteria in the media. Just dunk it in the water and give it a squeeze, you don't want it squeaky clean, just most of the gunk off of it.


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## MantisFTW

Ah, that clears things up a lot haha. Thank you


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## Hallyx

A lot of the bacteria is in the filter pad, ao you don't want to replace it and throw all that bacteria away. Only replace it when it's falling apart.


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## spiritbettalady

OK so you rinse your filter in the old water after cleaning, right? How many times do you use this filter before you put in a new one? Thanks for being so good about answering our questions.


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## Hallyx

A lot of the bacteria is in the filter pad, so you don't want to replace it and throw all that bacteria away. Only replace it when it's falling apart.Then replace it with aquarium sponge which lasts forever.


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## BlueLacee

So, if I have a 5g with a filter that is planted, I'm doing 50% wc a week! right?


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## Kithy

BlueLacee said:


> So, if I have a 5g with a filter that is planted, I'm doing 50% wc a week! right?


That's probably good ^^ A good way to know how often to change is to check your parameters. Once you see anything going up it's time to do a change.


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## BlueLacee

Ok, thanks


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## ANHEL123

Never afraid to do an extra water change Bacteria live on surfaces and in the filter, not so much in the water column. Water changes, even large ones, do not damage the cycle nor harm the nitrifying bacteria, nor do they in any way harm the fish. In fact, it's quite the opposite.


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## Hallyx

+1^ ANHEL

Besides removing nitrate, a weekly wc also replaces electrolytes and minerals that they and the plants use up.


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## BlueDumboGirl

i want to clarify a few things on my tank. i have a 1.5 gallon tank with a under gravel filter. If i read this correctly, i should be doing a 50% water change weekly correct? If so, do i need to condition the water that i will be putting into the tank prior to adding it? And if so, how long should i wait after putting the conditioner in to add it to the tank. 
- Thanks, new betta owner


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## beautiful Betta

In your size tank I would be recommending every day water changes. I think the thread is a bit out dated for the recommended changes, that's my personal opinion, knowing how fast ammonia can rise in a un-cycled tank. How are your Ammonia levels, are you aware of the nitrogen cycle which all new tanks will go through? 

And yes all new water needs to be treated with a water conditioner before adding to the tank. Seachems Prime is a good water conditioner to have as that will help detoxify Ammonia, Nitrite to a safer form.


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## BlueDumboGirl

beautiful Betta said:


> Seachems Prime is a good water conditioner to have as that will help detoxify Ammonia, Nitrite to a safer form.


That's what i have already


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## slimestone

Hi I wanted to clarify: I have a 6L tank at the moment, and here it says to do one 50% water change and one 100% water change weekly. Yet I have often seen written on this forum to do two 50% water changes and one 100% water change weekly, to water changes every day. Which is the most highly recommended? I've seen a lot of people mention the guidelines here are out of date.


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## Kithy

slimestone said:


> Hi I wanted to clarify: I have a 6L tank at the moment, and here it says to do one 50% water change and one 100% water change weekly. Yet I have often seen written on this forum to do two 50% water changes and one 100% water change weekly, to water changes every day. Which is the most highly recommended? I've seen a lot of people mention the guidelines here are out of date.


Knowing your tank is better than any guidelines. If you're able to test frequently enough and log it all in a book you can figure out how many changes your individual tank needs. If at anytime the parameters go up, ammonia or nitrite for example, do a 50%.

It's better to change too much than too little in smaller tanks though it is stressful on the fish to be cupped and put back in a tank. It's better than ammonia burns or fin rot.


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## slimestone

That's probably the best information I have seen so far! Haha, thank you. I will invest in a test kit then. And yeah, I was worried about stressing him out too much with frequent water changes.

Could I ask what the maximum readings are (or be referred to a post/page with the information)?


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## Kithy

slimestone said:


> That's probably the best information I have seen so far! Haha, thank you. I will invest in a test kit then. And yeah, I was worried about stressing him out too much with frequent water changes.
> 
> Could I ask what the maximum readings are (or be referred to a post/page with the information)?


If you see any nitrite or ammonia you wanna do a water change or use some prime. Now nitrAtes I think you can have some and it's okay. I see mine usually around 10 or so. It's definitely better to err on the side of caution but if you see that he gets overly stressed you can either keep him in the tank and take out as much water as possible OR cup him and cover him so it's dark and then put him back in the tank with the tank covered. Keeping bettas in the dark really helps them de-stress quickly.

The API liquid test kit is lovely if you can get that. Worse comes to worst, most pet stores with aquarium departments will test your water for you, though they generally tell you when something is in the "okay" range. I'd ask for a specific number if you do that. It's usually free as well. I would bring mine up in clean medicine bottles. Take the water from the bottom of the tank to test though.

Glad I could help ^_^


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## Hallyx

Kithy is right. The best way to determine a wc schedule is by testing the water regularly. Whenever ammonia or nitrite rise >0.50ppm it's time for a 50% wc. Dose Prime @ 2-drops/gal of tank size with every wc and 1-drop/gal daily until cycled. 

http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwate...qid=1379756505&sr=8-1&keywords=API+freshwater

Some of the alternative vendors on that page can meet that price including shipping.

The tank is cycled when ammonia and nitrite read 0.0ppm and nitrate rises slightly between wc's. Don't worry about nitrate in a lightly bio-loaded Betta setup. You'll doing enough wc's for ammonia to keep nitrate in check. Only high=load tanks produce abundant nitrate. When cycled, a weekly 50% wc will remove dissolved waste and replenish minerals.


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## slimestone

Thanks Kithy and Hallyx! Although I'm not looking to cycle the tank (as I understand it can only be done on larger tanks?). Are the parameters still the same (>0.50ppm)?

EDIT: I had a look at the API test kit, and unfortunately it doesn't ship outside the US, and it costs 80AUD here!! Looks like I need to save up :/


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## Hallyx

Yes, but only if you're using Prime or Stresscoat (or other ammonia-locking conditioner) to detoxify ammonia. If not, keep the ammonia <0.25ppm. 

Sorry about the boilerplate about cycling. While it is possibkle to cycle a tank that size, it's very finicky and probably should not be done with a fish in the tank. 

Prime and such will lock ammonia for a day or so. If I were running a 1.5g (6L) tank, I'd dose Prime @1-drop/gal every day and perform two very large changes a week dosing Prime @ 2-drops gal. 

Check the Seachem site and look up their ammonia testing device. A small stick-on badge that reads ammonia. Maybe you can get that in Oz.


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## slimestone

Yep, I've been using Prime. So will just testing for ammonia be adequate? Because I can definitely get just an ammonia testing kit.


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## Kithy

slimestone said:


> Yep, I've been using Prime. So will just testing for ammonia be adequate? Because I can definitely get just an ammonia testing kit.


In cycling it's the ammonia that spikes then regulates first, when cycling. Testing ammonia solely should be sufficient in determining how "dirty" the tank gets and change it based on that. 

If you ever notice your fish doing anything weird though, like hanging at the bottom or being lethargic, do a 50%+ water change and dose twice the amount of prime before beginning any antibiotics or other extensive measures. Water changes and conditioners go a long way on fishies.


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## Hallyx

+1^


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## starlight910

Are these guidelines only for a cycled tank?


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## Hallyx

As indicated above, in a cycled tank, you shouldn't have to change water to reduce ammonia or nitrite. A weekly 50% wc will remove dissolved waste and replenish minerals.


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## starlight910

Hallyx said:


> As indicated above, in a cycled tank, you shouldn't have to change water to reduce ammonia or nitrite. A weekly 50% wc will remove dissolved waste and replenish minerals.


Ok so in my uncyled 4 gallon with a filter but no live plants how many water changes do I have to do?


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## Crossroads

1-4gal with a filter
Twice weekly-one 50% water only and one 50% with substrate cleaning by vacuum or stir and dip method.
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.


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## starlight910

Oh I've been doing 2 water changes a week one 100% and one 50% as recommended by members on this forum when I posted a new thread asking this question. Again it's an uncyled 4 gallon with a filter. I'm confused now...


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## Kithy

starlight910 said:


> Oh I've been doing 2 water changes a week one 100% and one 50% as recommended by members on this forum when I posted a new thread asking this question. Again it's an uncyled 4 gallon with a filter. I'm confused now...


If it isn't stressing your fish out then the extra water change is fine. It's always better to err on the side of caution. 

The best way to know what your individual tank needs is to test parameters.


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## Liliana

Hi, thanks for making this post 

So, if I have a 2.3 gallon tank, without a filter or live plants, I should be changing the water twice a week? One change of 50% and the other of 100%?


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## Hallyx

Right. 

It's also important in a small tank to reduce your fish's exposure to ammonia, which can build rapidly. To do this, most of us use Prime water conditioer by Seachem. This product locks ammonia into a molecule harmless to your livestock. This molecule decays after a day or two, so it's recommended that you dose Prime @ 2-drops/gal of tank size with water changes, and 1-drop/gal daily.

It's also a good idea to regularly test your water for ammonia. Most hobbyists use this: Amazon.com : API Freshwater Master Test Kit : Aquarium Test Kits : Pet Supplies
(or, at least the ammonia test part of this kit.)

If you run a filter, test the water and use this water change schedule, you can cycle your tank auromatically with the fish safely in the tank.


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## mattdocs12345

Oldfishlady said:


> Tanks:
> 1-4gal without a filter or live plants
> Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-100%
> 
> 1-4gal with a filter
> Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-50% with substrate cleaning by vacuum or stir and dip method.
> Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.
> ​


I currently have 2.7 gallon tank with anubias and hairgrass and given above recomendations I just don't see a point of having a filter. You still gotta do water changes twice a week. Might as well turn off the filter and save the fish some stress from current.


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## kjg1029

the point of having a filter is to achieve a nitrogen cycle, to "eat the ammonia" and other bad stuff. thats why it said to do a 100%WC with no filer, but with a filter it sais to only do 50% Wc, because if your tank was cycled doing a 100% water change could crash your cycle. take a look at this thread http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?p=1047231#post1047231


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## mattdocs12345

kjg1029 said:


> the point of having a filter is to achieve a nitrogen cycle, to "eat the ammonia" and other bad stuff. thats why it said to do a 100%WC with no filer, but with a filter it sais to only do 50% Wc, because if your tank was cycled doing a 100% water change could crash your cycle. take a look at this thread http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?p=1047231#post1047231



That's true, you will build up a cycle but it doesn't change how often you have to do water changes so whether your tank is cycled or not you still gotta do twice a week water changes. And to me makes no difference whether I do 50% or 90% changes, it's 2.7 gallons...


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## kjg1029

it is alot less stress full for your fish to cycle it, because youll never have to take him or her out to do a 100%. and cycling you tank is the healthiest option for your fish.


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## Hallyx

Good job explaining, kjg. 

Convenience for the keeper is less important than water quality for the livestock. Even using Prime to detoxify ammonia from a water change does not keep ammonia at 0.0ppm all the time. Even daily dosing of Prime allows some ammonia as it gets released back into the tank by the decaying "locking" molecule to join the ammonia produced by the stock --fish, snails, shrimp. Only a cycled tank provides 0.0ppm ammonia all the time.

Most municipal water suppliers treat their water with chloramine. Chloramine is composed of chlorine and ammonia (it's a little more complicated, but...). Prime breaks up chloramine, removes the chlorine and safely 'locks' the ammonia, but only f0or a day or two.

Some keepers, myself included, feel that a weekly 50% wc and vacuuming is sufficient to remove nitrate and dissolved waste and to replace minerals in a 2.5g tank.


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## kjg1029

thanks! I try lol. i agree that a weekly 50% on a 2.5 would be okay as long as your know your water params, and your tank is cycled.


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## mattdocs12345

kjg1029 said:


> thanks! I try lol. i agree that a weekly 50% on a 2.5 would be okay as long as your know your water params, and your tank is cycled.


Interesting point that OFL brought up is that Ammonia/Nitrates and Nitrites are not the only toxins that accumulate in the tank. So more frequent water changes clean up more than the 3 compounds above.

Anyways, In my tap water I already got ~15ppm of ammonia. So Im sticking with 20% water changes every 2 days, after the prime looses its potency and 100% water changes on the weekends.

Sure fish can get stressed with 100% water change but this is natural acute stress that they experience in nature. Chronic stress is really what makes animals including humans sick.


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## Hallyx

~15ppm ammonia? I know that's a typo, because you're here typing instead of dead and buried. That's why I always include at least one zero (0) in my parameter expression __ vis: 0.50ppm or 1.50ppm. It also matches the readinm m ,xg on the API test reference card. And ammonia reading os 1.50ppm is still pretty high for a municipal water supply.

Prime begins to lose it's protection right away. It takes a couple of days *or less) to wear off. Although Seachen recommends 2-drops/gal every two days, I believe a dose of 1-drop/gal daily protects better because it smooths out the peaks. 

I agree with your assessment of stress, Matt. But it is better to avoid it as much as possible.


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## mattdocs12345

Hallyx said:


> ~15ppm ammonia? I know that's a typo, because you're here typing instead of dead and buried.


It's 0.15ppm. The color is slight less green than 0.25ppm but not quite yellow at Zero.
That's the ammonia level straight from my tap water. 

I decided to go against filter for the following reason:
1) My tanks is really small and cycling it doesn't really change the amount of water changes one needs as per OFL guide. 
2) I had a filter for 2 weeks and after I took it out my fish seems so much more lively and happy with water without any current. 
3) Filter produces constant humming noise and tiny glass vibrations which can chronically stress the fish, mine was quiet to my ears but in the water it can be quite noticeable.
4) My small tank remains cleaner without the filter. There is nothing decomposing in the sponge. I had a spike of 1ppm. I took it out the sponge only to find a bunch of decaying matter. 

And my water change schedule:

2.7 gallon tank, no filter, no plants yet/slow growing plants
- 1x per week 100% water change
- Daily water quality checks and water change 55% anytime ammonia reaches 0.25ppm.


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## NHmom

Thank you for keeping this post up front for new members. It was comforting to read a validation for my water-change method.


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## SilasJayne

i bought a new 20 gallon tank about 10 days ago. i filled it with well water, it's heated, it's filtered. the PH, temp are where they need to be, there's zero ammonia.

i haven't cycled the tank, but i broke down and bought a betta yesterday.
and i also added a live plant to the tank, an amazon sword plant.


with him being the only fish in the uncycled tank, will he ever produce enough waste to get the tank cycled? since he's in a 20 gal tank and it's just him, is once a week 50% water changes going to be "too much" cleaning for the tank to ever cycle?

should i just check the ammonia levels daily and at the first hint of ammonia, do water change? 

if say....a week from now there's still no ammonia, do i *still do* the water change? or do i wait until ammonia tests are positive?

and also.....if i got some gravel or filter media from a friends mature tank and put in in my filter or tank, from what i understand that actually introduces the good bacteria (that you are trying to create by cycling) into your tank. does this mean you are able to skip the dangerous spikes in ammonia?

but that bacteria you add from friends tank will need food (ammonia) so how does that work out if you have zero ammonia in your tank water? what does the good bacteria eat once u put it in your tank?


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## Tolak

The tank will cycle, it will just have a smaller colony of nitrifying bacteria compared to a fully stocked tank of that size. If you do get some mature media you may not see any cycling issues, depending on the donor tank stocking as well as how much media you take. A filter supporting single betta in a 20 gallon will be processing the same amount of ammonia as a filter on a smaller tank with the same stocking, the end product, nitrate, will just be more diluted.


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## Hallyx

Excellent, Tolak. 

As for the mechanics: a weekly 10% to 20% change will also help keep the dissolved waste from accumulating. And it freshens the water -- like opening a window to refresh a room.

A weekly parameter check is always a good idea.

"Seeding" live bacteria from a donor tank is a long-standing practice to promote the nitrogen cycle.

Well-water is nice because it has no ammonia. But sometimes it has a lot of heavy metals and other minerals. Prime water conditioner, among others, removes the heavy metals. In my well-water, I dose 2-drops/gal of refill water for this reason.

As single Betta in a 20g can lead to a lot of empty space. You might want to heavily plant at least one part of the tank for him to hide and feel cozy in. Include lots of floaters for shade and for hiding and sleeping in near the surface..

Let us know if you intend to expand your hobby to include other species in that 20g.


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## SilasJayne

thank you Tolak for the "ah HA" moment. i get what u r saying. thanks for the info


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## SilasJayne

hallyx


thanks to u too  my hood is a plastic low-profile hood that came with the set-up. it has 6 sets of little squares, and each square has four little lights in it. 
they were described on the box as "daylight" lights and seem pretty bright, but having never used LED lights before, i'm not sure if my amazon sword plant will thrive in this tank or not. if it does well and looks like it's thriving i'd love to load it up with more, especially the ones you mentioned. 

have u been able to have live plants with LED's?


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## Hallyx

I can't afford LEDs. I just use simple CFL curly bulbs (13W 6500K) in desk-lamp fixtures. I'm just a failure with plants. All I have left are Anubias, which I float, and a couple of potted swords in my bare-bottom tanks. Swords don't need much light if it's the right kind.

The members over in the _Planted Betta Tank_ section know all about this stuff.
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/planted-betta-tanks/


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## Coconutjennyb

Thank you for this post, it's a life saver. While my current beta is in a small 2 L bowl he won't be there for long I have a 5 gal aquarium on order, but till then I appreciate having the info for smaller containers. Thank you!!!


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## Hallyx

Glad you found this sticky useful. We have others just as informative.

Regardless of tank size and wc schedule, an uncycled tank should be dosed daily with Prime water conditioner (by Seachem) @ 2-drops per gallon.

Welcome to the forum.


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## DangerousAngel

I'm glad you said how many drops! This is very helpful!


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## Sangha

Hey guys!

As a new fish owner, I just read these water change recommendations and I ran into a problem I am worried about. My 1.5 gallon tank doesn't have a filter, there is only a plant in it next to my fish and -thanks to these recommendations- I am going to change 50% of the water every week. But I don't know how to remove remaining food and other debris which goes into the gravel of my tank. I already noticed that my betta REALLY hate 100% water changes and he -sort of- panics everytime I do full water changes. What do you recommend? Am I supposed to remove the gravel and instead of it use small rocks LIKE ON THIS PICTURE which could hold my plant but are easy to remove when I do 50% water changes too?
Thanks!


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## Hallyx

Gravel is fine, especially if you already have plants growing. Clean the bottom with a clean, new turkey baster if you want. But it's better to have a siphon like this DIY one 50-cent siphon or you can buy one at your LFS. 

A weekly 50% wc is not enough for optimum health.

In a small unfiltered tank, it's important to use Prime water conditioner by Seachem. this detoxifies the ammonia put out by your fish and plants. Dose 2-drops/gal every day. 

Using Prime, you can do a 50% wc every second or third day with a large >80% wc every third or fourth change.

Do a full clean 100% every month or so.

I hope this sounds like a lot of work..... because it is. 

Better is to get him into a 2.5g tank -- preferably larger -- and cycle your tank. CYCLING: the two-sentence tutorial 

Welcome to the forum.

I just noticed you're in Hungary. What brands of water conditioner are available to you? I'd like a list so I can recommend one.


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## 123playcard

If I get tap water to a big 5 gallon plastic bucket and leave it for 48 hours, do I still have to add liquid to remove chlorine.


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## ao

123playcard said:


> If I get tap water to a big 5 gallon plastic bucket and leave it for 48 hours, do I still have to add liquid to remove chlorine.


Do you know whether your water has chlorine, chloramine or both? While chlorine evaporate easily from water, Chloramine evaporates at an insanely slow rate. 

It's much easier adding 10 drops of prime to your water than to wait two or more weeks for the water to become safe. 

keep in mind that emergencies crop up where you may need to do an immediate water change. Unless you've prepared water in advance it will be unlikely you'll be able to do an emergency water without a water conditioner.

Water conditioners are life savers


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## cfaye3char

thank you for posting this.....I am new to betta fish and want to be a good mom.


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