# Plants, a not-so-scary glance guide!



## PewPewPew

*Plants and You- the not-so-scary-as-it-seems guide!*
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*
Oh, plants. Next to cycling and diseases, live plants are a large anxiety and mystery to new aquarists. Sometimes, aquarium plants can be very tough to take care of and very expensive. Alas, never fear! There are plants out there that are easy to care for. Yes, I said it. Easy!
The best thing you can do when considering live plants is acknowledging your tank’s level of maintenance. No, not water changes, though these are important, Im talking about how much care can be given to them. For instance, do you have a cO2 system? Fertilizer? Proper lighting? Proper substrate?


*“Low” maintenance tanks include:*

-Tanks without fluorescent lighting


-Tanks with no or little substrate, or substrate like gems, rocks, and marbles.


-Tanks that require frequent 100% water changes (which would require them to be taken out)


-Tanks without cO2 or heavy fertilization/any fertilization


-Tanks without supplemental minerals

*Medium maintenance tanks include:*

-Tanks with proper lighting and/or access to direct sunlight


-Tanks with gravel or sand


- Tanks that are cycled or filtered/ do not need constant uprooting, etc.


- Tanks that get some/moderate fertilization, maybe cO2.


-Tanks with some supplements, probably from fertilizers.

Both of these types are easily achieved. The biggest difference between them is expense. 

While not too pricey, buying correct lighting and fertilizers/ supplements can become a bit costly. Sometimes, these products can be hard to come by, especially for those with stores that carry very limited supplies. Both tanks are rewarding and an endeavor you should seriously consider!

Keep these things in mind when researching plants, knowing your kind of tank is helpful!

I myself had a LM tank, because I had no access to any kind of fertilizers or proper lighting. In fact, my tank got very little natural light from the sun. Now I have a MM tank and enjoy it quite a bit!

Plants that thrive in LM tanks are generally low-light plants and plants that require no additional fertilization. MM tanks are low-medium light lovers that enjoy or do best with fertilization or require specific/ special care.


Here are some of the easiest to care for and most common plants new aquariests like to use with great results. There are, of course, many more plants that fit into the LM and MM tank parameters, but these are usually some of the easiest and least expensive!


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## PewPewPew

*Anubias (all/general):*
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*

*Bio:* Anubias is a gorgeous plant that looks wonderful in any tank. It is widely available and comes in a variety of species. It has lush, dark green leaves that can come in many shapes. It likes a clean tank (which your fish should have anyway!) and subdued light. 
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Ideal Temp:* 71-81’F
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Substrate/Rooting?:* Do not bury rhizome or will rot , float or tether to grow onto an object, best results in driftwood or some rock.
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Ideal Spot in Tank/light:* Anywhere, some species are short, others tall. Does not like direct light!
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Fertilization:* Little to none, but it certainly wont mind it!
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Special:* Grows slowly, can float and create a great resting spot for bettas, cannot be buried, can be rooted to things by tethering it down with string or fishing line, does not like direct light/too much light. Will get clear leaves or holes if too much light and can disintegrate if the tank is dirty.

*Amazon Sword:*









*Bio: *Amazon Sword plants are a handsome plant in any tank; they have long stems with long leaves that can be broad or narrow. When grown well, they can get quite large and look gorgeous and make the tank look extremely natural.
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Ideal Temp: *75-82’
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Substrate/Rooting?: *This plant needs to be buried into the substrate. A deep substrate is required for this plant, since the roots grow out long and many. Three to four inches of substrate is ideal.
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Ideal Spot in Tank/light:* mid-to background, needs low to moderate lighting, likes diffused lighting best.
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Fertilization: *Many believe this plant does need some sort of fertilizer in order to grow and/or live once nutrients in the water have depleted. 
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Special:* This plant is slightly more demanding than others. It likes a deep substrate and needs at least some fertilization to grow at its best.

*Anacharis (stem):*








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Bio:* Anacharis is perhaps the easiest plant to care for, and it sucks up ammonia like a fiend. Usually inexpensive and in large amounts, this plant is highly recommended for beginners. While floating, it provides great cover for fry and fish alike.
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Ideal Temp*: 40-50-77’ (Though from my experience does alright from 78-82’)
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Substrate/Rooting?:* This plant will not root, but can be buried while slightly tethered into substrate. Best spot is left floating.
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Ideal spot in tank/light:* Ideally left floating, grows off chutes and can grow very tall, so keep that in mind. Likes light, but too high can cause the leaves to wither, can be kept in very low light.
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Fertilizer*: Not needed, though without it the leaves will stay short, less vibrant and will not grow as long.
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Special*: A great plant that propagates constantly. From one chute there can be multiple babies, which grow when picked off, allowing you to keep growing and growing this plant. When it dies, should be removed, because it gets messy. A siphon is recommended for cleanup.

*Duckweed:*
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Bio: *This plant tends to ride/hitchhike along with other plants and is not overly common to buy. However, since it often tags along with other purchased non-tubed plants, its worth covering.
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Ideal Temp: *56-85’F
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Substrate/Rooting?: *Will only float, stays at surface.
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Ideal Spot in Tank/light: *Will grow in all light levels.
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Fertilization: *Will eventually suck out large amounts of nutrients, and if you want it to stay in the tank in large amounts, fertilization or supplementation is a good idea.
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Special: *This plant can take over the top of your tank if you let it. Taking out moderate amounts is a good idea, as it grows quickly when healthy. If it comes in unexpectedly, taking out what you can and doing frequent water changes will serve well in getting rid of it.


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## PewPewPew

*Giant Hygrophila (stem):*
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*Bio*: A handsome stem plant with sword-like leaves, compliments any tank in almost any location within it. Stemmed trimmings can be planted back into the gravel/sand and grown. A great starter plant, well worth its money from propagation!

*Ideal Temp: *68- (best from)75-82’

*Substrate/Rooting?: *Can bury in the substrate, *fine gravel or sand is best.

*Ideal Spot in Tank/Light: *Likes light, but can live in low light situations. Grows fast, so will need constant trimming to be kept short/in the front.

*Fertilization*: Minimal, if any. Always helps, though!

*Special: *Sometimes, when first planted back into your tank, it might lose its bottom or all of its leaves. Don’t worry, they’ll grow back! It also may flower while submersed completely.

*Hornwort (stem):*
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*Bio: *Hornwort is the notorious tank taker-over in aquaria. However, this plant is a great ammonia eater and worth having in a tank, especially for beginners. Watch out, though- it shed nettles like crazy.

*Ideal Temp: *39-95’ (WOW!)

*Substrate/Rooting?: *This plant has no real roots and will not root to things. It can be buried, though the first few rows from the bottom of nettles should be removed as they will die off. Works well while it floats.

*Ideal Spot in Tank/Light: *The back or sides of the tank is the best. This plant grows like a weed and gets so high that it can even grow out of the tank. This plant is fickle and may be picky as to what kind of light it fares best in, though it can live in low to high light- moderate light seems best. If the light is too* low, it will die, but this needs to be very dark.

*Fertilization: *Needed, at least some- because it sucks the nutrients out of the tank so effectively it will lose what it needs to survive.

*Special: * PLEASE NOTE that this plant should never be allowed to grow out of a contained area, such as introduced into lakes, ponds, streams, etc. It is VERY invasive and can live nearly anywhere. Do not ever release into the wild. * This plant’s nettles fall off easily, even when healthy, and frequent siphonings and/or full water changes are needed. If left to rot, it is hazardous to the tank. Do not let the plant grow too close/tall that it grows out of the water or too close to the light, as it will scorch and die.

*Java Moss:*
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*Bio: *Java moss is a strange fern-like moss that shoots out small branch-like sprouts. It’s a strange bugger but grows atop objects and décor to add a pleasing, natural look for your tank. 
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Ideal Temp: *65-85
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Substrate/Rooting?: *Can be left to float, though usually not. Usually attached to some sort of décor, rocks or wood.
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Ideal Spot in Tank/Light:* Anywhere where it can be attached to, REQUIRES low to moderate light for it to grow best. Not great for high-light tanks!
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Fertilization: *Not needed, though it couldn’t hurt.
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Special: *This plant does not do well in hard water and will grow more slowly when the water is warmer.

*Java Fern:*
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Bio: *Java fern is a lovely and very earthy looking addition to any tank. It makes a tank look very natural with its sometimes rough, crinkled leaves that look like a fern, hence the name. It is an undemanding plant that requires no special treatment or lighting. It can be found nearly anywhere that sells plants.
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Ideal Temp: *65-85’F, has been known to melt upwards of 83’- go higher at own risk!
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Substrate/Rooting?: *This plant should not have its rhizome buried, as it will rot. Instead, opt to attach it to something such as driftwood or rocks. The root bunch (hair like on the bottom) makes it easy to do. Tie to what you want it to root to with string or fishing line.
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Ideal Spot in Tank/ light: *Anywhere it wont get too much light. If too much, leaves will become transparent and whither. Can get large, good at all places in tank, enjoys the canopy cover of taller plants.
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Fertilization: * This plant requires nothing special, though it helps.
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Special: *Not much though can have some blackish bumps on the bottom of leaves, which is normal. Also creates “babies” (advantageous plants) from its tips when healthy, which can be removed or left to release into the tank to grow new ones.


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## PewPewPew

*Water Wisteria:*
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*

*Bio: *Water Wisteria is a light and airy plant that requires no special care. Its leaves and stem provide a unique addition to your planted tank. It can be found in many places that sell plants, though is slightly less common than anubias or java fern.

*Ideal Temp: *74-82’F

*Substrate/Rooting?: *Can be allowed to float, does well when rooted/buried.

*Ideal Spot in Tank/light: *Likes more moderate light, but can live in low light situations. Well placed in the background of a tank or on the sides of a tank.

*Fertilization: *Not required, but if left alone, will eventually run out of needed nutrients in the tank. Fertilization helps a lot.

*Special: *Grows quickly and propagation is easy, trimmings will grow when buried as long as there is a node, leaf shape determined by the temperature of the tank, should be pruned regularly.

*Water Sprite:*
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*Bio: *This is a rapidly growing floating plant which sucks up ammonia like a champ! It is a wonderful addition to any new tank.
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*Ideal Temp: *64-82’
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*Substrate/Rooting?: *Most easily cared for while left floating, other methods may prove more difficult.
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*Ideal Spot in Tank/Light: *Floating, likes low light while it floats. If in substrate, light needs to be moderate.
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*Fertilization: *Requires no to minimal extra fertilization.
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*Special: *This plant does not like sudden changes in water parameters, including sudden heat changes, pH changes, etc. Take care not to shock it!

*Easy Fertilizers:*
 There are many fertilizers out there. Some are heavy-duty and hard to use, so here are a few that have been recommended and used with good results.

- Tetra FlouraPride
- API Root Tabs
- API Leaf Zone
- SeaChem Flourish
- Adding a tsp of Epsom salt (unscented) on occasion helps!

There are many out there, but these are readily available and can be found in many places. Use ones appropriate for your plants, water change schedule and for your fish. 

**NOTE!*

*Some medicines are harmful to plants*. Check the directions to see if your medicine harms plants or inverts. Usually, what will hurt an invert, can do damage to a plant. Copper harms plants, so take care to remove them. Also, plants, while not affected by diseases, can still harbor disease. Remove them from your tank for a while if you are nervous about them harboring something.

*Always QT your plants for at least a week, 3 weeks+ is best*! Plants can have unwanted critters hiding in them, which you probably don’t want in the tank. Wash gently in tepid water and place into an appropriate QT for a while.

Those “*betta bulbs*”, found in many stores, often don’t work. Some members have managed to get them to grow, but as a whole, theyre a dud. If you have them, grow them in a separate tank as to not contaminate your tank with mold, which they are notorious for growing. If your bulbs mold, either chuck them or remove the mold. 

Plants require light- incandescent bulbs; the ones commonly pre-installed into tank hoods (low, yellowy light) do not grow plants. Purchase fluorescent/ compact CFL’s for the tank under its specified specs. Do not go over the wattage for the bulb for the hood- it will usually say its maximum wattage somewhere by the light cover (“Do not exceed 15w”). Also, if a specific type of bulb is recommended (“use only Tubular bulbs”), take heed and get that type. Bulbs are sold in pet stores, and can also be found in the lighting section of most stores. Make sure you get the correct wattage and type for your tank! You don’t want to blow a bulb!

I hope this helped! Again, research is key- and this guide does *NOT *guarantee good results and is not a sure-fire guide to plants. Use it to help you feel more confident with your plants and find out what works best for you!

Pictures © their respective owners <3
Special thanks to Tropicalfishkeeping.com and theplantedtank.com for great info, as well as the many other sites I used for research! <3 <3


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## phoenix91

This is great, it will definitely help me decided which plants to get for my new tank.


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## luvmybetta

You are doing such fine work giving all of us an in depth reading of your knowledge and research. You are going to make an excellent teacher!! Even an ol' timer such as myself thoroughly enjoys reading all of your thoughts and work. Just excellent!!


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## Littlebittyfish

Love all these plants!:-DEspecially the anubias. They cost a bit more than the other plants listed... usually.._.but _they last a lot longer and are very hardy..so..good for beginners! 
For some reason I have issues keeping anacharis and hornwort alive though...:lol: I just recently bought some more anacharis..Here's to hoping I can keep it alive and green!:-D


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## Omboc

Such an excellent guide, I can't wait till I get my new tank so I can try planting it!


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## PewPewPew

Thanks guys! <3

Some sites to consider buying from (ones I have had god results/ones suggested by the site) are:
bobstropicalplants.com (make sure you QT them! Snails snails snails! lol!)
liveaquaria.com
aquabid.com
sweetaquatics.com
and many others. If you have one to recommend, let me know  One of these sites (I think) has a discount code for members of this site, since we refer to it so often. Haha! <3


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## Cassandra90

http://www.plantedaquariumscentral.com/. If you use the code BETTAFISH (all caps!) at check out, you'll get a 10% discount. Well This was a while ago but it may still work. They decided to give this forums members 10% off since we recommend buying from them so much.


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## Betta Fet

Thanks alot for the guide. I want to try some live plants and this is a good place to start.


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## PewPewPew

Cassandra90 said:


> http://www.plantedaquariumscentral.com/. If you use the code BETTAFISH (all caps!) at check out, you'll get a 10% discount. Well This was a while ago but it may still work. They decided to give this forums members 10% off since we recommend buying from them so much.


Ha! Thats the one! I couldnt remember, bagh. Thanks!

And Im glad it helped you, I hope things go well with your plants!


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## Cassandra90

They are really good, all my plants I bought came in good shape


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## phoenix91

I have a question about what to do when first introducing plants. I have my tank set up, the substrate is in. So far i have 1 lonely amazon sword in there and the filter is running. I should be getting some plants i ordered in a few days, a java fern and some marimo moss balls. I added some rocks to attach the fern to and the marimo balls i can just put somewhere. 

So, when first adding the plants how often should i change out the water? I will e getting a few more plants when i find suitable healthy ones, do i need to wait before adding them or just add them? I won't have any animals in the tank for a while and when i eventually do it'll just be a few shrimp.


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## PewPewPew

phoenix91 said:


> I have a question about what to do when first introducing plants. I have my tank set up, the substrate is in. So far i have 1 lonely amazon sword in there and the filter is running. I should be getting some plants i ordered in a few days, a java fern and some marimo moss balls. I added some rocks to attach the fern to and the marimo balls i can just put somewhere.
> 
> So, when first adding the plants how often should i change out the water? I will e getting a few more plants when i find suitable healthy ones, do i need to wait before adding them or just add them? I won't have any animals in the tank for a while and when i eventually do it'll just be a few shrimp.


You should still QT the plants for a little while, because there is a good chance theyre harboring something, which would be hard to remove in your substrate. While what theyre harboring usually isnt bad, you probably dont want them in your tank. Keep them in a small qt and check for critters for a while. To keep them warm, float the qt in your big tank  After like a week or how ever long youre comfortable, add them in and do what you wish with them in the tank.

There arent any animals in your tank? Hm. Change the water like once a week to restore nutrients and keep algae down  If you notice theyre losing leaves/nettles/getting messy, siphon as needed.

You say youre getting shrimp, but dont have them yet? If you can, cycle the tank first! Theyll live better if you do this before adding them, because theyre notoriously sensitive to parameter changes.

Good luck :B (did I answer everything? Im derp today)


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## phoenix91

PewPewPew said:


> You should still QT the plants for a little while, because there is a good chance theyre harboring something, which would be hard to remove in your substrate. While what theyre harboring usually isnt bad, you probably dont want them in your tank. Keep them in a small qt and check for critters for a while. To keep them warm, float the qt in your big tank  After like a week or how ever long youre comfortable, add them in and do what you wish with them in the tank.
> 
> There arent any animals in your tank? Hm. Change the water like once a week to restore nutrients and keep algae down  If you notice theyre losing leaves/nettles/getting messy, siphon as needed.
> 
> You say youre getting shrimp, but dont have them yet? If you can, cycle the tank first! Theyll live better if you do this before adding them, because theyre notoriously sensitive to parameter changes.
> 
> Good luck :B (did I answer everything? Im derp today)


Okay, i can do that. I hadn't thought about any nasty stuff living in the plants, i didn't QT my two amazon swords but so far haven't seen anything odd come off them.

Nope, No animals. It's going just be just a planted tank since it's where my cats can get to and if i add any fish i'd have to go through my little cat being an idiot again. I figured i'd let the plants get established before i added any shrimp, probably ghost shrimp if i can get them as they won't attract the cats so much. okay once i add the plants i can do weekly water changes no problem.

Thanks.


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## PewPewPew

Welcome, and good luck!


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## Betta Fet

This should be sticky'd


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## PewPewPew

Haha <3
Anyone else have sites that have good plants, low prices and low shipping costs?
Im looking for sites


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## Kaylin

Thanks so much for writing this up Pewpewpew!
Now I know what plants I can stick in the gravel, and which ones I need to tie off to something. 

~Kaylin


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## vaygirl

I've gotten plants and driftwood from www.aquariumplants.com. They ship nicely and I've never had a problem with quality. They'll sometimes throw in freebies too.


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## PewPewPew

I ended up going with sweet aquatics..I dont know why I didnt before,I think I was scared off by how much stuff they had. A few things were admittedly a bit priceier than bob's, but I think theyre going to be of better quality. Bob's sadly didnt deliver at all in that dept, and most of my order was eaten to death by a hoarde of invasive snails and crab-looking things. Urhdfalsdhfj yuck!


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## phoenix91

PewPewPew said:


> I ended up going with sweet aquatics..I dont know why I didnt before,I think I was scared off by how much stuff they had. A few things were admittedly a bit priceier than bob's, but I think theyre going to be of better quality. Bob's sadly didnt deliver at all in that dept, and most of my order was eaten to death by a hoarde of invasive snails and crab-looking things. Urhdfalsdhfj yuck!


I just looked on sweet aquatics and i wish i'd used them. I unfortunately went with aquatic magic and it's been over a week and i still haven't received my order. I could understand if the shipping had been cheap but it wasn't. I emailed them and they said it could be anything up to 17 days for my order to arrive.

Next time i buy i think i'll go with sweet aquatic as they're just up the road from where i live.


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## Littlebittyfish

My 3rd bunch of anacharis...DEAD...What am I doing wrong??:lol:


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## Sunshine0235

whats the best kind a substrate to put on the bottom and how much, i have a 55 gallon I would like to plant.


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## PewPewPew

Depends On what you want to plant  gravel and sand work great. If you have bottom feeders, opt for sand our really fine gravel. Using sand limits some of what you can plant into it, though gavel usually when if its rather fine will not.

And how did you kill anacharis?? ^^; 
How long does it take to die? If its fine for a while but dies after like a week or two, it could be from lack of nutrients. Try using a liquid fertilizer


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## PewPewPew

phoenix91 said:


> I just looked on sweet aquatics and i wish i'd used them. I unfortunately went with aquatic magic and it's been over a week and i still haven't received my order. I could understand if the shipping had been cheap but it wasn't. I emailed them and they said it could be anything up to 17 days for my order to arrive.
> 
> Next time i buy i think i'll go with sweet aquatic as they're just up the road from where i live.


They do pick up!! Youll save money


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## vaygirl

@Littlebitty Did it melt? I've heard that it will often melt when you first put it in and then it will shoot up with new plants. How much light do you have? Are you using fertilizer tabs?


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## Tisia

about half of my anacharis melted, it was my own fault though, I was trying to do a salt dip just to make sure there was nothing that could hurt my boys, and apparently I was having a brain fart day and decided to use really warm water, think I cooked it a bit, lol, my snail enjoyed trimming the leaves for me though. somehow I still have 3 stems with new buds growing, crazy stuff


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## swhitt

*PewPew, thank you!!!*

I am very glad that you wrote this thread! I have no experience with aquatic plants so this will be very helpful to me when I finally get some


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## Littlebittyfish

vaygirl said:


> @Littlebitty Did it melt? I've heard that it will often melt when you first put it in and then it will shoot up with new plants. How much light do you have? Are you using fertilizer tabs?


Maybe that is what happened...I have tried this plant in the past and it only lasts a few weeks...I have a lot of different types of plants...red ludwigia...wisteria...camboma furcata...amazonsword plants..anubias..java moss..all ook...but as soon as I try to grow anacharis it dies! :lol:
It "melts" and its little leaves pollute the floor my my tank and turn my water a light green tint...every time!:shock: I took them out..._again_...I believe this will be my last attempt with anacharis..I have at least wasted 15 dollars on this plant so far...:lol: 
I do like the way it looks in other peoples tanks though...Maybe it is my water or maybe it is temperature sensitive?:hmm:


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## Sunshine0235

PewPewPew said:


> Depends On what you want to plant  gravel and sand work great. If you have bottom feeders, opt for sand our really fine gravel. Using sand limits some of what you can plant into it, though gavel usually when if its rather fine will not.



How thick should it be on average? Thanks for the info so far.


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## vaygirl

@Littlebitty I'd just stick with what you have. I had one melt once too. OMG, what a mess.  I didn't have the patience for it.


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## Tisia

I ended up moving my snail to my new boy's tank for a little to eat some of the bits of anacharis I was having trouble getting out. I have decided Robin will definitely not be getting any tank mates after that, little bugger has a scrape on his head from trying to eat the snail's little tentacle dealies


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## PewPewPew

swhitt said:


> I am very glad that you wrote this thread! I have no experience with aquatic plants so this will be very helpful to me when I finally get some


Im very glad :3 <3



Sunshine0235 said:


> How thick should it be on average? Thanks for the info so far.


Depends on what you want, really! I know that vague, but some people like less, others more. I only have about an inch or so. Some really good looking plants, like amazon sword, (and all swords, really..) need a large amount of space in depth and length to root, so perhaps opt for about three inches worth of whatever youre going to try to do. It would look really nice with that much.


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## Suzbettafish

*fertilizer question*

PewPewPew-since I am currently cycling my tank, is it still okay to add the fertilizer? I have the Seachem Flourish. I don't want to ruin my cycle as I feel I am at midway and definitly don't want to start over :shock: 
I am having that same problem with the anacharis melting and making a mess in the bottom of my tank. Just wondering if it is a lack of nutrients?? 
Thanks again for the wealth of info in this thread! :-D


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## PewPewPew

Ive never had mine melt before! Are you sure its MELTING and not DYING/ROTTING? Because when it grows old and dies, it looks pale and rotten and stringy. Remove these parts, if you want/can. Thats what I do, because itll just rot further. 

I dont think the fertilizer will hurt, Im not 100% sure on that, but I still use it! I'd say that since you can after its done, you can while its in the process.


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## Suzbettafish

Makes sense to me! Thank you!


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## PewPewPew

:3 <3


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## TonyK

What kind of Flouresent lights are you using in your planted tanks? I don't want to pick up the wrong light.


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## PewPewPew

I use this kind they sell at walmart, its not the best ever but mine have to be under 15w and tubular, which is kinda hard to get here. It comes in a plastic package, like those ones you always get hurt opening, and has a dark label. Theyre like $6 :B


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## phoenix91

Just received my nano marimo balls and java fern from aquatic magic. Not sure about how they packed them, the plants seem kind of squished, i'm also not sure if i'd buy from them again in the future. I'll get them in a QT tank when i get home and hopefully they'll all perk up a bit. Then i can get them in my planted tank to fill it out.


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## tsoto80

I also thank you for making this thread. I been wanting to redo my sorority 20 gallon for awhile. I wanted to try live plants but I am so scared that I will screw something up. I also been wanting to get finer gravel for all my tanks because I think it will look better. Being that said, how should I start? Is it better to buy a big bunch of plants first and plant them all at once or is better to buy little at a time? Also if I change the gravel do I have to cycle it again and if so would it be too much to cycle in-fish with plants also?? Im worried its going to be hard and I end up screwing up and killing my pretties. Or would it be better to start with my 5 gallon tank since it is smaller? Sorry for all the questions I just want to be careful.


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## PewPewPew

Why not do both? Put live in both sizes.

And you very well could lose the cycle, but, if it established in the filter well, it shouldnt completely kill it. Id say if you are willing to do a fish-in cycle for your sorority, then change the substrate. Not all plants need a fine gravel, but some do enjoy it. If youre thinking of getting plants that do, Id say go ahead. However, there are plenty of plants that DONT require it, so if youre nervous about changing the substrate, there are always alternatives.

And Id say once youve decided what youre gonna do for your gravel, buy a bunch of the plants and set them up. Dont go overboard or anything, but you might end up getting a better deal, especially if youre ordering online!
If you buy all at once, too, you may have extras left over, but you can just put them into your 5!


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## Harley

More great info PewPewPew! I was reading on another thread where someone said they had bought a "aponogeton" plant. I'm not sure I necessarily want one myself but maybe you could add it to the list to help someone else when you have time.


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## PewPewPew

Hm, Ive looked at this before but the lacey ness of the leaves kinda put me off D; I found a site about it:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/myplants/178-Aponogeton_ulvaceus_Aponogeton_ulvaceus.html

Btw- there are a few kinds that are easily availible, which one was it? Do you know? That would narrow care down a little :3


----------



## Harley

Here's the original thread:
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=68194


----------



## phoenix91

I didn't want to start a new plant thread since this one (and so many others) is here. So i have 2 amazon swords, 1 in my 3 g and 1 in my 5g. the one in my 3 g has been there for nearly 2 months now, it looks great. the one in my 5 g has been moved around a bit and at one point wasn't looking so good. i moved it to a corner of the tank with a little indirect sunlight and put in some plant food and it seems to be doing better.

i was brushing some sand of it's leaves that had been dumped by my vacuum and noticed that one of it's leaves is almost see-through. The rest of the leaves just look like normal plant leaves and there's even a new one growing, but this one just looks strange. About a week ago it was looking a little brown and now this. Should i trim this leaf and leave the rest? or should i leave it be?


----------



## ollief9

Thanks! Really helpful!!!


----------



## PewPewPew

:3


----------



## denaliwind

Thought this thread needed a bump ^^


----------



## PewPewPew

:B Thank you!


----------



## BlueHaven

That's a great guide!
Haha
I had an amazon sword, it died on me because I didn't have enough gravel for it's roots. 
>.>


----------



## PewPewPew

Im sorry :c Know you know


----------



## wallywestisthebest333

BlueHaven said:


> That's a great guide!
> Haha
> I had an amazon sword, it died on me because I didn't have enough gravel for it's roots.
> >.>


You'll definitely want some root tabs too. It'll allow your sword to grow better. =] 

And keep in mind that these things can literally get as big as a small adult when purchasing them. Trimming is tricky business with these too because you can't trim all the stems at once or your plant will die.

They are beautiful though and you can get smallish variations. =]


----------



## wallywestisthebest333

This is a great guide!  All the basic plants and ammonia busting plants are here! =]

Lol why did none of us think about this before? XD IT's so much easier to just copy-pasta the URL for this thread than to type out recommendations and care guides EVERY TIME. =]

Thanks a bunch! <3 You're made of awesome! =] *gives cookies*


----------



## PewPewPew

*rolls around joyously in said cookies* B: Nom nom nom nom nom nom!! <3 <3 <3


----------



## phoenix91

Giving this thread a little bump because i'm always searching back for it for tips.

Plus, can i just say someone one this site mentioned banana plants and i bought one for my females tank and omg i love that plant, it's so pretty and grows so quickly.









i hope i'm doing everything i need to for it and all my plants (and fish), they do seem to be thriving.


----------



## Diana S

PewPewPew said:


> *Plants and You- the not-so-scary-as-it-seems guide!*
> 
> 
> Oh, plants. Next to cycling and diseases, live plants are a large anxiety and mystery to new aquarists. Sometimes, aquarium plants can be very tough to take care of and very expensive. Alas, never fear! There are plants out there that are easy to care for. Yes, I said it. Easy!
> The best thing you can do when considering live plants is acknowledging your tank’s level of maintenance. No, not water changes, though these are important, Im talking about how much care can be given to them. For instance, do you have a cO2 system? Fertilizer? Proper lighting? Proper substrate?
> 
> 
> *“Low” maintenance tanks include:*
> 
> -Tanks without fluorescent lighting
> 
> 
> -Tanks with no or little substrate, or substrate like gems, rocks, and marbles.
> 
> 
> -Tanks that require frequent 100% water changes (which would require them to be taken out)
> 
> 
> -Tanks without cO2 or heavy fertilization/any fertilization
> 
> 
> -Tanks without supplemental minerals
> 
> *Medium maintenance tanks include:*
> 
> -Tanks with proper lighting and/or access to direct sunlight
> 
> 
> -Tanks with gravel or sand
> 
> 
> - Tanks that are cycled or filtered/ do not need constant uprooting, etc.
> 
> 
> - Tanks that get some/moderate fertilization, maybe cO2.
> 
> 
> -Tanks with some supplements, probably from fertilizers.
> 
> Both of these types are easily achieved. The biggest difference between them is expense.
> 
> While not too pricey, buying correct lighting and fertilizers/ supplements can become a bit costly. Sometimes, these products can be hard to come by, especially for those with stores that carry very limited supplies. Both tanks are rewarding and an endeavor you should seriously consider!
> 
> Keep these things in mind when researching plants, knowing your kind of tank is helpful!
> 
> I myself had a LM tank, because I had no access to any kind of fertilizers or proper lighting. In fact, my tank got very little natural light from the sun. Now I have a MM tank and enjoy it quite a bit!
> 
> Plants that thrive in LM tanks are generally low-light plants and plants that require no additional fertilization. MM tanks are low-medium light lovers that enjoy or do best with fertilization or require specific/ special care.
> 
> 
> Here are some of the easiest to care for and most common plants new aquariests like to use with great results. There are, of course, many more plants that fit into the LM and MM tank parameters, but these are usually some of the easiest and least expensive!


 Thank you so much.I put it on save so when slow down I really reread this.Sunday day of rest...what ?lol really nice info "Thank You" Diana S


----------



## wallywestisthebest333

Chocolate Chip Cookie Bump. <3


----------



## sayurasem

i have a question about lighting...
i use 2 base lamp hood. and the lights are 2x 50/50 reef sun 10watts fluorescent bulbs.

so my question is.... is my lighting overall only 10 watt or 20 watt for my tank??


----------



## tsoto80

can this please be stickied? It was hard to find  lotta good info


----------



## PewPewPew

sayurasem said:


> i have a question about lighting...
> i use 2 base lamp hood. and the lights are 2x 50/50 reef sun 10watts fluorescent bulbs.
> 
> so my question is.... is my lighting overall only 10 watt or 20 watt for my tank??


I think 20, but Im not very great with things like that :c


And thank you tsoto!


----------



## PewPewPew

*SHAMELESS BUMP FOR KNOWLEDGE...*

And so this thread isnt so hard for me to find when referring to members, hah.

Also, if anyone is still reading-
*
Aquatic Banana Plants* are great and very easy! Check them out.


----------



## KayDowson

This is sooo helpful thank u


----------



## PewPewPew

Im glad to hear!


----------



## Wyvern

I have to say thanks PewPewPew! Between you and a very enthusiastic LFS I have manged to plant my tank with 9 different plants and it looks amazing!


----------



## PewPewPew

I'm Glad, thats great!


----------



## Wyvern

omg I just saw my spelling in that response  Managed . . . 

Btw shameless bump - feel free to delete it once you have stickied the thread.


----------



## PewPewPew

Haha Idk if they will xD


----------



## bahamut285

The pictures of the plants you posted look so much better than the ones at Petsmart...they all look brown and miserable 











EDIT: Are LEDs okay for some of the plants?


----------



## PewPewPew

If they are strong, then yes!


----------



## trono

I have a fertilizer question.

I just bought a bunch of plants, because I felt like having them. I got some java moss, a java fern, anachris and an anubias. 

I also bought Nutrafin Plant Gro, because I figured my betta and 7 pygmy cories wouldn't produce enough for the plants to survive.

My question is this: do I just measure out the proper amount and just dump it in the tank?


----------



## PewPewPew

For now, add in the recommended dose as per the directions. Yes, just add it in- try not to dump it on the fish, though (they get a bit miffed at that )

Most fertilizers assume your tank is fairly well/heavily planted, so keep it to directions, unless its HEAVILY planted and/or has a large amount of water column feeders (like stem plants, anacharis, etc)-- then add a little more


----------



## trono

Thanks ^.^


----------



## PewPewPew

:d <3


----------



## cableguy69846

PewPewPew, if I may, I would like to add a correction to the Anacharis on this thread.

It will root in the substrate in the same manner as hornwort. You have to strip the leaves in the first 3 or 4 nodes and bury the stem in the substrate. After a period of time, it will grow "roots" in place of the leaves. When left to grow, these "roots" can be many and large as with any normal rooted plant. I have seen this in action, and it is pretty cool.

Sorry to ramble, but I just wanted to help out. And this is a great thread to have. I am glad there are people like you in the world that are not afraid to share knowledge. The thread is the reason forums like this one are around. Thank you for this and keep it up.:-D


----------



## PewPewPew

Typically, most people directed here are very new users/new to aquariums, especially plants.
Like in my Sticky in Care, I left out things that typically require more time and effort, like leaving out cycling- for this reason. Most people wont wait for it root and/or will leave the leaves on and have it begin to rot at the base, and chuck the plant out.

>_<


----------



## cableguy69846

PewPewPew said:


> Typically, most people directed here are very new users/new to aquariums, especially plants.
> Like in my Sticky in Care, I left out things that typically require more time and effort, like leaving out cycling- for this reason. Most people wont wait for it root and/or will leave the leaves on and have it begin to rot at the base, and chuck the plant out.
> 
> >_<


Got ya.


----------



## PewPewPew

*BUMP* for glory and also because I still have so much trouble finding this dumb thing DX Urgh!


----------



## cableguy69846

You should add some light bulb basics in here as well. Like the color temp. and spectrum requirements.


----------



## Lion Mom

cableguy69846 said:


> You should add some light bulb basics in here as well. Like the color temp. and spectrum requirements.


I agree 100%!!! ;-)


----------



## PewPewPew

Haha, again- same reasons as cycling, etc. Most people dont ask for it, most wont listen.

I recommended CFL bulbs, as thats all people usually need to know. Going into that sorta stuff in a guide (which, I cant alter btw) would mostly confuse the average, typically younger member looking for an easy couple of plants in a tank.

I generally recommend 6500K bulbs, CFL's, broad spectrum- for 7 or so hours a day for the lower-light plants live the fern and anubias, 10+ for higher like the swords and anacharis/hornwort.


----------



## cableguy69846

I would say make them threads anyway. Those of us who know some stuff about it would gladly contribute to them. I know Lion Mom has some lighting knowledge now:-D and as far as I am concerned, if people want to read it they can and if not they can skip it. I think it would save a lot of questions and trauma for some people who are newer to the hobby. :-D


----------



## PewPewPew

Baagghhhh, but I have so many other threads in queue, I still never did the bascis on cycling (getting there, sigh) and the FAQ that I had.

I did manage to do the fin rot 101 though, but Idk if Ill format it and post. D;

Guides take a long time :C This one took a while, even with light research (I knew a lot of the info already), it took a long while to verify what I found. Gyugh D;


----------



## bahamut285

I wrote my guide at work *trollface*


----------



## PewPewPew

Thats just awful -__-;


----------



## trono

There are these sprout things coming out of my floating anachris. What's that all about?


----------



## Bettawolf19

trono said:


> There are these sprout things coming out of my floating anachris. What's that all about?


Are like white and long kinda like strings? If they are then those are most likely roots I do believe. Mostly when they do that another shoot apprears on the oppisite side. Sometimes not always though. If anything it's just throwing out roots. Mine does that every so often.


----------



## PewPewPew

It might be the rhizoid... Roots in anacharis look like...well, Roots! what you're describing is more like a long, pale colored worm-thing, yes? (Hahah!)

Theyre fine and will grow as the plant does. If you're not a fan of how they look, you can try to encourage them to grow around the plant (wound against it loosely), but that doesnt always work.


----------



## trono

Aw, yes roots. I just thought it was weird that it was shooting out roots when they are floating at the top of the tank.


----------



## bahamut285

How would you move your tank to another home if it has plants in it? Do you have to rip them all up from your tank and put them into little bags? @[email protected]


----------



## PewPewPew

Yessss ma'am. I use tupperware containers to place mine into. Then, I put those (closed tight with some water inside) into the void of space while my tank is in its box, which I use to bring it home.

Getting a long, shallow tupperware container is your best bet, so they can lie flat


----------



## PewPewPew

trono said:


> Aw, yes roots. I just thought it was weird that it was shooting out roots when they are floating at the top of the tank.


Haha, they are weird. My fish knock into them all the time and almost seem creeped out by them.

The roots, like ones at the bottom, are thin, almost hair-like. 

I dont know which kind I dislike more lol!!!


----------



## bahamut285

B'awww okay, I guess my aquascaping dreams are crushed for now, LOL


----------



## PewPewPew

Aww, why?? I scape and move around a bit, but its not a big problem :< once the plants grow roots that are of good size, theyre quite easy to replant, trust me!


----------



## TonyK

Quick question I hope someone could answer. I set up a 5 gallon Marineland. I put 2 bunchs of Anacharis in the tank. I have them buried in the gravel. Is there any special instructions and keeping them healthy. Here is a pick of the tank.


----------



## cableguy69846

TonyK said:


> Quick question I hope someone could answer. I set up a 5 gallon Marineland. I put 2 bunchs of Anacharis in the tank. I have them buried in the gravel. Is there any special instructions and keeping them healthy.


How did you plant it? Did you strip off the leaves from the first few nodes and bury it up to that point in the substrate? Are you using fertilizer at all?


----------



## TonyK

I did strip 3 or 4 rows of leaves off the bottom of each plant. I didn't use any fertilizer. If I use some what should I use and how often? Another question is the bunch was wrapped in a small piece of metal to keep the bunch together should I remove that?

Cableguy, I see your from Chicago me too:-D


----------



## cableguy69846

TonyK said:


> I did strip 3 or 4 rows of leaves off the bottom of each plant. I didn't use any fertilizer. If I use some what should I use and how often? Another question is the bunch was wrapped in a small piece of metal to keep the bunch together should I remove that?
> 
> Cableguy, I see your from Chicago me too:-D


Ok. You don't need fertilizer, but a little bit would help from time to time. I usually dose my tanks after I do a water change once a week. ATM, I am using Seachem Flourish for that. I also dose Excel from the same company to act as my CO2. The metal strips are plant weights. You can leave it on and it will help keep it from floating, but it is not a must if you bury it well. They also use those metal strips to keep bunches together. Would I take it off? Yes. Your plant will probably be better off without it. And what part of Chicago? I am in Beverly and grew up in the Southwest burbs.


----------



## TonyK

Thanks for info I will definitely use it. I am on the Northwest side very close to Elmwood Park.


----------



## cableguy69846

TonyK said:


> Thanks for info I will definitely use it. I am on the Northwest side very close to Elmwood Park.


No prob. And I have no idea where that is. Lol. I am not too familiar with the north side.


----------



## PewPewPew

Looks good, tony! I did that for mine in much the same way.

The only thing I suggest, if you havent, is to take the first half inch at least of leaves off the plant, as they'll rot if under the gravel. Fertilize if you want, which will make them grow, grow grow! I use Aqueon Plant food (liquid ferts work well with anacharis, because its a water column feeder)-- it keeps them happy! If that is the only plants in that tank, half the dose per directions (ex, 1 tsp/5 gallons, use 1/2 that), because thats not a lot of plants a the moment 

Woops, you beat me! Thats what I get for opening too many windows, lol.

If you want to keep them together, loosely tie with a bit of string.

Also, Ive found excel melts anacharis D; Both through research and personally.


----------



## cableguy69846

PewPewPew said:


> Also, Ive found excel melts anacharis D; Both through research and personally.


Didn't know that. When I had my 20 high setup with all the anacharis in it, I never used Excel. Now I use it on all my tanks, but I don't have any anacharis. I hear that Excel does not do any good for most mosses as well. Thanks for the info Pew.


----------



## PewPewPew

You know, Ive heard that too :/ I cant tell what trend there is to what melts, so I dont know many other plants that melt by it other than anacharis and some mosses...
I dont use it in my tanks, but Ive noticed in my friends (whos tanks I pretty much care for lol!), theirs do. Anacharis responds well to what's in my current fertilizer, but not so great to ones based more in iron and potash (Like tetra's ferts)...Hrmmm!

Fickle thing, anacharis


----------



## PewPewPew

Ugh, goodness. I laugh every time I see "ferts", because I read it as "farts".

Sigh, Im such a kid at heart!


----------



## cableguy69846

PewPewPew said:


> Ugh, goodness. I laugh every time I see "ferts", because I read it as "farts".
> 
> Sigh, Im such a kid at heart!


Lol, I'm 26 and I do the same thing all the time. It is perfectly normal. LMAO!


----------



## cableguy69846

PewPewPew said:


> You know, Ive heard that too :/ I cant tell what trend there is to what melts, so I dont know many other plants that melt by it other than anacharis and some mosses...
> I dont use it in my tanks, but Ive noticed in my friends (whos tanks I pretty much care for lol!), theirs do. Anacharis responds well to what's in my current fertilizer, but not so great to ones based more in iron and potash (Like tetra's ferts)...Hrmmm!
> 
> Fickle thing, anacharis


I am going to have to remember that. I know a lot of people into planted tanks who hate anacharis because of how easily it will take over a tank. I am not planning on using it again, but I am planning on some moss in my 10 gallon so I think I am going to switch to T5HO lighting and pressurized CO2.


----------



## PewPewPew

Lucky! I wish I could use cO2, but between living in a dorm and moving so much (back to my parent's, which means only one, small tank, bagh!) it wouldnt be effective.

I like the anacharis alright- but mostly just for the fact that it helps me cycle quickly and keeps my levels in check. It doesnt rocket out of control in my tanks, it never has, bagh! (Super soft water :c) My other plants are happy, especially the banana plants and ferns.

My boyfriend's, however, is a beast, so can understand those woes. 

When mine was growing too much, I would send it to new members or members who couldnt afford/had trouble finding easy care plants  That and hornwort, but bagh, hornwort is a curse in and of itself. 

And Im glad Im not the only one who laughs at it! Im only 19, but I laugh just as hard at petty fart jokes as my young brother. 

(And if you've heard Im a 30+ year old man, thats not quite true... LOL! Sometimes I get serious disrespect for being "so young" (which is very irksome!),even though I do know my stuff for what its worth, so I troll and fool people into thinking Im either or both...Hah! Ive managed to seriously confuse even some "friends" on the site! My bad.)


----------



## cableguy69846

PewPewPew said:


> Lucky! I wish I could use cO2, but between living in a dorm and moving so much (back to my parent's, which means only one, small tank, bagh!) it wouldnt be effective.
> 
> I like the anacharis alright- but mostly just for the fact that it helps me cycle quickly and keeps my levels in check. It doesnt rocket out of control in my tanks, it never has, bagh! (Super soft water :c) My other plants are happy, especially the banana plants and ferns.
> 
> My boyfriend's, however, is a beast, so can understand those woes.
> 
> When mine was growing too much, I would send it to new members or members who couldnt afford/had trouble finding easy care plants  That and hornwort, but bagh, hornwort is a curse in and of itself.
> 
> And Im glad Im not the only one who laughs at it! Im only 19, but I laugh just as hard at petty fart jokes as my young brother.
> 
> (And if you've heard Im a 30+ year old man, thats not quite true... LOL! Sometimes I get serious disrespect for being "so young" (which is very irksome!),even though I do know my stuff for what its worth, so I troll and fool people into thinking Im either or both...Hah! Ive managed to seriously confuse even some "friends" on the site! My bad.)


Lol, that last part is funny. And age does not mean you know nothing nor does it mean you know everything. I know people who are old and know nothing, and the young ones are pretty smart.

And as far as hornwort goes, it will never enter my tanks again. All the leaves get every where and clog up the filter something terrible. I will never deal with that plant again.


----------



## PewPewPew

Exactly, ugh. Its almost foul how it sheds its nettles. I like my tanks debris-free, and it bothered me SO much.

Hear hear. I dont know everything, but if Im answering your question, which obviously you dont have an answer for...Im deserving enough of respect in the fact that I have an answer, knowledge, that you dont.

I dont know if you were around for it, but I had a serious run-in with a woman who freaked out on me, mostly citing my age... She couldnt even spell in a way that was understandable.

Lady- I may be 19, and you may be whatever with kids, but in the end...

I know and you dont, so listen and learn! LOL! What's learning without listening, eh?


----------



## Wyvern

Ok so quick question with regards to the anachris - doesnt the stems go icky if you plant it? That happened to all of mine, and I really would love to plant some of it. I take about 4 or 5 nodes of leaves off before planting and it always goes manky on me.


----------



## PewPewPew

Give it time. It sometimes loses its leaves when adjusting. Dont use excel as a fertilizer and dont go above 80f if you can manage. It sends roots in a few weeks. :<


----------



## cableguy69846

PewPewPew said:


> Exactly, ugh. Its almost foul how it sheds its nettles. I like my tanks debris-free, and it bothered me SO much.
> 
> Hear hear. I dont know everything, but if Im answering your question, which obviously you dont have an answer for...Im deserving enough of respect in the fact that I have an answer, knowledge, that you dont.
> 
> I dont know if you were around for it, but I had a serious run-in with a woman who freaked out on me, mostly citing my age... She couldnt even spell in a way that was understandable.
> 
> Lady- I may be 19, and you may be whatever with kids, but in the end...
> 
> I know and you dont, so listen and learn! LOL! What's learning without listening, eh?


The debris thing was my problem as well. And I don't think I was around for that. I hat that though. My fiancee fights with people on twitter all the time over that same issue. She is really into politics and she gets death threats and all kinds of things from it. 

P.S. - I think we went way off topic on this one. Lol.


----------



## Wyvern

I will give it a try thanks Pew


----------



## PewPewPew

np!

And meh! Thats the good thing about "owning" this thread lol!!


----------



## cableguy69846

PewPewPew said:


> np!
> 
> And meh! Thats the good thing about "owning" this thread lol!!


Lol.


----------



## TonyK

Thanks I will pick up some plant food for them today. I did remove them from the bunch. I read somewhere it was better for the plants if they are loose and not bunched together.




PewPewPew said:


> Looks good, tony! I did that for mine in much the same way.
> 
> The only thing I suggest, if you havent, is to take the first half inch at least of leaves off the plant, as they'll rot if under the gravel. Fertilize if you want, which will make them grow, grow grow! I use Aqueon Plant food (liquid ferts work well with anacharis, because its a water column feeder)-- it keeps them happy! If that is the only plants in that tank, half the dose per directions (ex, 1 tsp/5 gallons, use 1/2 that), because thats not a lot of plants a the moment
> 
> Woops, you beat me! Thats what I get for opening too many windows, lol.
> 
> If you want to keep them together, loosely tie with a bit of string.
> 
> Also, Ive found excel melts anacharis D; Both through research and personally.


----------



## PewPewPew

Good luck with the plants, tony!


----------



## thePWNISHER

Why is this thread not a sticky? It seems very well developed and a FAQ/Beginner's guide to plants.


----------



## PewPewPew

B'aww :B Thank you.


----------



## thePWNISHER

Are there any more plants that you have become more familiar with from the forum? Would be great to continue adding to it


----------



## PewPewPew

There are a few I could probably do...it woulda probably turn into a more advanced list, though.
Id have to make a new post, though, I can't add to this one after so long >_<


----------



## Shaon

I gotta say, this thread is awesome! I can walk in to my LFS and actually know what to ask for 

Btw, any thoughts on Crystalwort (Riccia Fluitans) as a low tech plant?

I'm looking for some low light plants I can use as a carpet, other than java moss >.> I do like the dwarf sagittaria and might consider it as a solution.


----------



## LittleBettaFish

I have Riccia fluitans growing in my sorority tank. I have a sort of high light but low-tech sort of tank ie. irregular dosing, no CO2. I use the Seachem range of fertilizers, and have the lights on from 6-8 hours each day. Both my Milfoil and Riccia are thriving with my Riccia actually pearling the other day when I came home from work.

The only thing you have to watch is that because it forms such a thick blanket that the bottom can brown off because of a lack of light reaching it.


----------



## PewPewPew

^ Thanks, LBF 

If its a good price, consider trying both the sag and the riccia- why not? You never know until you try...Especially if the price is right!


----------



## corvinusvz

I was wondering… my lighting is a BIOPRO colormax T8 15w, is this enough? by the moment I have a Cryptocoryne parva, Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Tropica' and a Echinodorus cordifolius ssp. Fluitans (not really sure of the last one) what do you think? =0


----------



## cableguy69846

corvinusvz said:


> I was wondering… my lighting is a BIOPRO colormax T8 15w, is this enough? by the moment I have a Cryptocoryne parva, Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Tropica' and a Echinodorus cordifolius ssp. Fluitans (not really sure of the last one) what do you think? =0


What size tank do you have it on?


----------



## corvinusvz

cableguy69846 said:


> What size tank do you have it on?


 It's a 10gal rectagular tank.


----------



## corvinusvz

51 cm x 26 cm x 30 cm (length x width x height)


----------



## Shaon

I have an 18 inch Aqua-Glo 15 watt light. I have about 12 gallons of water in my tank. Is that enough for riccia? (Btw my tanks measurements are 30cm by 60 cm by 35cm. However, there are 12 gallons of water in this tank)

If riccia won't do nicely with this light, any other suggestions for a low light carpet?


----------



## cableguy69846

corvinusvz said:


> It's a 10gal rectagular tank.


It might work. Not 100% though. Maybe a more experienced person can interject here?


----------



## corvinusvz

It’s seems that my light it’s to low :/ at least for my Cryptocoryne parva.
I found this in a planted aquarium forum, hope this helps with the lighting :B


----------



## cableguy69846

That is a pretty decent graph. I would have to look up the requirements for the plants and have to get back to you. I am gonna hit the books in a little bit. After I wake up and have my coffee.


----------



## Wyvern

Yea whilst this thread is going strong PewPewPew - just a quick question about my watersprite. What can I do to keep it very happy? They are planted near a flourish tab. So far they look good but I do have a little browning on the edges of the leaves. But I suspect its just the transition from the wool/gunky stuff they used to be in. Fortunately they where sold from tanks where they were fully submerged.

Also for anyone who buys hairgrass, trim it short! I did an experiment over 2 weeks with two bunches in my tank. One i trimmed the other I didnt. The trimmed one is green and already growing shoots. The other one was turning brown! So it was trimmed short as well today. What I did was just cut the stems about 2cms from the roots off and replanted it. So trim the grass it really does work!


----------



## PewPewPew

Wyvern said:


> Yea whilst this thread is going strong PewPewPew - just a quick question about my watersprite. What can I do to keep it very happy? They are planted near a flourish tab. So far they look good but I do have a little browning on the edges of the leaves. But I suspect its just the transition from the wool/gunky stuff they used to be in. Fortunately they where sold from tanks where they were fully submerged.
> 
> Also for anyone who buys hairgrass, trim it short! I did an experiment over 2 weeks with two bunches in my tank. One i trimmed the other I didnt. The trimmed one is green and already growing shoots. The other one was turning brown! So it was trimmed short as well today. What I did was just cut the stems about 2cms from the roots off and replanted it. So trim the grass it really does work!



I couldnt really say without looking at it, but certainly keep an eye on it... Ive read not to bury the stem of this plant, so if the stem has been buried, uplift it so that only the spindly roots are under the substrate. Im fairly certain that this plant is a water column feeder, so instead of root tabs, try a liquid micro and macro fertilizer.

How long have you had the sprite? Be careful, too, that it stays in a place that has constant params- like temp, pH, ammonia/nitrite levels (as constant as possible), etc, because this plant is whiney and might throw a fit if it feels "shocked".

Ive noticed that, too, in Dan's tanks-- Kept short it seems happier, at least sans cO2 and all those fancy pants things.

Thanks :3


And *sorry* guys!! I accidentally unsubscribed from my own thread, gyyaaghh! I found this floating around in the habitats section and was like awww craappp >_<" 

I think those lights will be ok- but I dont know much about them. Like cableguy said- maybe someone who knows a bit more can help.


----------



## Wyvern

bwahahahhaha pewpewpew

Mine is just the roots that are covered so that they dont float altho I have a few leaves floating. 

I was just amazed at the difference in the hairgrass  I use seachem flourish 2 times a week and excel as well 2 times a week, and now I cant wait for my anubias to arrive next week! All my plants are looking lovely, the watersprite actually is unfurling new leaves so Im assuming its happy. I think its just the adjustment from their tank to mine that caused the browning. But its so little im not really worried about it. Currently Im looking for either a blue or red spectrum light for my tank, but thanks to the lid being so tiny I have to order one from my LPS :S


----------



## PewPewPew

I'm sorry. I hope the sprite bounces back


----------



## PewPewPew

I bought a bunch of new plants for myself and the bf from sweetaquatics to play with!!

Im getting some sagittaria (dwarf), onion plants, bacopa, pennywort, and something else Im forgetting.
Ive yet to personally work with them, so Im sorta excited. Sadly, the African Fern was sold out...Im so sad!

Dan's getting water sprite, wisteria, some vals, nana plants (LOL!) and some more anacharis, because that stuff loves his tanks.

EXCITEMENT.


----------



## cableguy69846

Shaon said:


> I have an 18 inch Aqua-Glo 15 watt light. I have about 12 gallons of water in my tank. Is that enough for riccia? (Btw my tanks measurements are 30cm by 60 cm by 35cm. However, there are 12 gallons of water in this tank)
> 
> If riccia won't do nicely with this light, any other suggestions for a low light carpet?


As far as my research has found, riccia is a high light plant. If you want it to do well, you would need 3 to 4 watts per gallon. You can try it, but I don't think it will do well. But I could be wrong.


----------



## cableguy69846

corvinusvz said:


> I was wondering… my lighting is a BIOPRO colormax T8 15w, is this enough? by the moment I have a Cryptocoryne parva, Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Tropica' and a Echinodorus cordifolius ssp. Fluitans (not really sure of the last one) what do you think? =0


The crypto parva is a low light plant. I had it in a tank with 2 watts per gallon and it was fine. The Echinodorus cardifolius is a medium light plant. You may have some problems with it in that light. The other crypto, I am not sure about. I had some in a 20 high with 15 watt T8, and it did ok. But it would be a hit or miss. Good luck man.

I also found something that said the other crypto is a low light plant.


----------



## Tikibirds

I'm gonna give the live plant thing a try. Petco was having a buy 2 get one free thing and I got 1 amazon sword, one wysteria and some type of fern - peacock fern I think...

Wish me luck :-?


----------



## PewPewPew

Dont add the peacock. It will rot. 

return it and explain it was mislabeled and not for use in an aquarium--they'll take it back.

Its a shame, since peacock fern is pretty. If you want a fern, get java fern!  Or score a nice anubias.

I just bought a fern from them and I love it-- I wish Id bought two more for myself! D: They have the full- many leaved kind which looks fantastic both attacked to wood as well as just on the bottom of a tank.

I sorries you got the fern that'll die, its so misleading!!!


----------



## cajunamy

Ok so I got a new 55, divided into 8, for my bettas of course , and got some plants in yesterday. The hood came with 2 T8 F15 daylight bulbs. I'm looking for 2 watts per gallon for my plants. I have no clue what these bulbs are LOL. Can anyone help?


----------



## MikiMaki

I just bought some anacharis today. It was in a tank at petco, so it's in qt right now with my brand new rescue. The guy said not to buy those plants that are in the tubes cause they were grown with only their roots submerged so when you full submerge them in your tank it shocks them and they almost always die. But I dunno about the truth to that...he seemed pretty knowing.


----------



## phoenix91

Can anyone recommend a fast growing plant that will grow quite large. I bought some hygrophilia corymbosa but it unfortunately melted (i was very sad). In the tank i also have aponogeton crispus and c. wendtii, plus some java fern and i banana plant that lost all it's leaves when i moved it so now it's just stumps  I had some kind of val in the tank too but it melted aswell.

Tank is 20 g with dwarf puffers so i'd like to get more coverage for them quite quickly.


----------



## corvinusvz

here:
http://www.tropica.com/plants/specific-purposes-/fast-growing.aspx
a list of some fast growing plants :B


----------



## phoenix91

Thanks very much!


----------



## bahamut285

I went and got some 7 Watt CFL bulbs at the dollar store so I don't know how many K that is. Does anybody know? It made my tank way brighter and livelier than the 15watt incandescents -_-.

Are the "low tech" plants going to be safe in this? Do I need fertilizers or whatever or can I just anchor/toss/"plant" them into my gravel? I'm going to try it when I have time tomorrow to buy plants >_<~!

Which ones do you recommend? I'm looking at the java fern and/or anacharis. Oh oh also Anubias and Amazin Swords

Do I have to QT them? and how do I do that? I still have my cursed tank so can I just throw them in there for how long? (or will they die like everything else in there -_-)

SORRY FOR ALL THE QUESTIONS DX...I don't want to mess this up. I feel bad for killing things even if its just plants lol ;__;



EDIT: LOL AMAZON*


----------



## PewPewPew

Holy not taking care of my thread. >_< SORRY!



cajunamy said:


> Ok so I got a new 55, divided into 8, for my bettas of course , and got some plants in yesterday. The hood came with 2 T8 F15 daylight bulbs. I'm looking for 2 watts per gallon for my plants. I have no clue what these bulbs are LOL. Can anyone help?


Wee! Exciting!



MikiMaki said:


> I just bought some anacharis today. It was in a tank at petco, so it's in qt right now with my brand new rescue. The guy said not to buy those plants that are in the tubes cause they were grown with only their roots submerged so when you full submerge them in your tank it shocks them and they almost always die. But I dunno about the truth to that...he seemed pretty knowing.


I disagree, though I understand what he means and why he thinks that. Theres truth in that, since they often are grown that way, but I often buy the tubed plants when in a pinch for a plant and they work just fine for me as well as others. 
Sensitive plants, ones that drop leaves during changes regardless, would drop their leaves even when grown fully submerged. Hygros, crypts and sometimes swords will even if the change is minor. 
Anubias, amazon swords and java ferns from those tubes all live well and healthy once given a grace period of a few days. Those are really the only plants they actually sell in those things that are aquatic (LOL!) so I still recommend 

Be sure to, before adding to the tank, rinse all the gel off the roots, trim dead or browning leaves, and run the plant until rehydrated in tepid (room temp) water for a little while. Let it sit in a cup fully submerged and then add to the tank and it should be ok!



bahamut285 said:


> I went and got some 7 Watt CFL bulbs at the dollar store so I don't know how many K that is. Does anybody know? It made my tank way brighter and livelier than the 15watt incandescents -_-.
> 
> Are the "low tech" plants going to be safe in this? Do I need fertilizers or whatever or can I just anchor/toss/"plant" them into my gravel? I'm going to try it when I have time tomorrow to buy plants >_<~!
> 
> Which ones do you recommend? I'm looking at the java fern and/or anacharis. Oh oh also Anubias and Amazin Swords
> 
> Do I have to QT them? and how do I do that? I still have my cursed tank so can I just throw them in there for how long? (or will they die like everything else in there -_-)
> 
> SORRY FOR ALL THE QUESTIONS DX...I don't want to mess this up. I feel bad for killing things even if its just plants lol ;__;
> 
> EDIT: LOL AMAZON*


Chances are theyre between 5500-6500K. Did they say "daylight" on them or anything? Typically, "daylight" means 6500 or so. 
Those plants should be fine. If its truly low light loving plants like java moss, fern and anubias, then keep the lights on for around 6-8 hours a day.

Fertilize if you want, sure! It cant hurt. Get one like excel, flourish or aqueon plant food (I use this)-- excel has been known to melt certain plants like anacharis, so consider that as well.

As with all plants, QT them for at least a week before adding to a tank. Better yet 3 (especially if they lived in a tank with fish)-- with frequent water changes and appropriate lighting/ferts.

Amazon swords need fertilizers and deep gravel, 2inches minimum, 3-4 inches is best. Theyll probably need root tabs (for iron), too- which is easy to get. 

Java ferns should be tethered to something, though if its got a big ol' gob of roots (theyre brown and almost hairy, NOT the hard green stem --rhizome--), you can bury THOSE and keep the rhizome above the gravel. I do that now that the roots have grown so much for mine while tethered.

Anacharis is a good plant, though it might throw a fit if it doesnt like your tank params-- it may begin to melt at the tips, but so long as it continues to grow a bit, its ok and just adjusting. (Tell it to stop whining :B)

Anubias... derp. Just tether it to something or float that sucker. As long as the tank is clean/maintained and it doesnt get super direct light (if so, clear holes will develop), its happy.

As for your cursed tank, fill with water from your fish tank (do a water change and poop suck--for ammonia, yum!) so long as there are no meds, salt or anything in there. Fill that up with that water and new water if theres not enough. Make sure that tank has light for the plants, at least a little for a few hours is good. Ease them into alight schedule, 3hours a day then 5 then 7...
Fertilize if you want, under dose it if you do, of course. Add in new ammonia whenever you do a new water change. So, if youre doing a water change for your fish tanks, add that and the poop water into your plant tank instead of getting rid of it  They need noms! (ew)

QT for at least a week if tubed, 1-2 if in a plant only tank, and at least 3 if it lived with fish, for good measure.

Change that water frequently, to help keep any critters down in them :<


----------



## bahamut285

kk Thanks P3, blah there are no plants that will survive/like direct light except for the elusive duckweed XD. Is my light considered "bright" for plants? My moss balls LOVE it, they were struggling a little with my old light, now they're bright and green again.

James used to look a little ratty, now he's more-or-less round now XD


----------



## bahamut285

So in the end I decided to go shop for water wisteria, but apparently they're "very popular" so they were sold out....

Out of curiosity I asked the lady there what plant I should get for a "Low tech, low maintenance and noob "gardener"" and she recommended Red Ludwigia to me. They looked nice enough but I thought I should ask you guys first XD;...are they good for noobs?


----------



## PewPewPew

No.

Frankly, no.

I dont even want to mess with ludwigia. If you get all of one certain kind (forget the name) which is still sorta tricky, youre in like 5 star difficulty land >_< Blargh!

Wisteria is worth the wait 

Dont worry about the plants, really, anubias will do ok as long as you dont leave it floating with too bright and too long of light, ferns will do ok but if too close will have "burns" and anacharis will be like LAWL, I GOT THIS and be happy. Java moss is a medium to no light (lololol) lover, so thats really the only one that would be sad in light.


----------



## astoda

Thanks for this awesome thread. And thanks for keeping it simple for us newbies! I'm setting up a 20 gal and this is my biggest fish undertaking ever so I'm glad for the help!


----------



## nel3

just found this thread, its very helpful. was thinking of adding duckweed to the 2.5g tank that im waitin for the fish. dont think duckweed is for me now. 

i dont want to go into fertilisers much at this point. im thinking water spirites but im leaning more to anacharis. is anacharis easy to tend to regarding new growths? i dont want a plant that will take over a 2.5g too quickly. if i can stunt its growth by avoiding fertilizer how much would it tend to spread? can it be free floating but achored with fishing wire?


----------



## PewPewPew

Good luck to you! Post a picture here if you want to show off that nice new tank when its finished!



If I may also suggest, since your tank is quite large (larger means more plants, lol!)

Consider getting (and researching!) plants like moneywort, moneywort, various kinds of bacopa, vallisneria, onion and dwarf onion plants, and other plants labeled "easy" or "Very easy" 

I didnt post those at the time of the thread's creation, though I might make a more comprehensive easy plant list. The above are not as easily found as whats in the main thread, though-- but online retailers and local pet shops may have them. Sweetaquatics.com is where I buy plants, though the shipping/processing time takes a bit longer than most.

The ones on the main thread are usually found in most stores, including petsmarts and petcos


----------



## PewPewPew

nel3 said:


> just found this thread, its very helpful. was thinking of adding duckweed to the 2.5g tank that im waitin for the fish. dont think duckweed is for me now.
> 
> i dont want to go into fertilisers much at this point. im thinking water spirites but im leaning more to anacharis. is anacharis easy to tend to regarding new growths? i dont want a plant that will take over a 2.5g too quickly. if i can stunt its growth by avoiding fertilizer how much would it tend to spread? can it be free floating but achored with fishing wire?


Duckweed is a great plant, and many like it, but in smaller tanks it may over take the top and not allow light in. It also is usually expensive when you buy smaller quantities, rather than larger ones (for people who use it in ponds and buy by the pound).

Yes, anacharis, provided it likes your tank (it can be fickle at first, but will adapt), will thrive well and usually produce new growths at a fair pace. When the water conditions it really loves are not met/not optimal, growth may be slower.

It probably wont really over take the 2.5. Usually, when you order a bunch of anacharis, you get 6-8 stems. A few die off usually, and new growths will replace that.

Anacharis, I have found, reacts less to fertilizers and more to light in terms of growth. When I used ferts, it had fuller, longer leaves, but normal growth. With more light, it grew longer and had more offshoots.

You can bury anacharis. Stip about an inch to a half inch of leaves from the stems, and bury that under gravel. In a few weeks, it will develop roots like most other plants. 

If it grows too fast, anacharis shoots can be nipped off with a pinch of the fingernails. It isnt fussy where you prune it, either, so you can snip it at the top, the bottom, the sides, where ever, without damaging it, like other plants would.


----------



## astoda

PewPewPew said:


> Good luck to you! Post a picture here if you want to show off that nice new tank when its finished!
> 
> 
> 
> If I may also suggest, since your tank is quite large (larger means more plants, lol!)
> 
> Consider getting (and researching!) plants like moneywort, moneywort, various kinds of bacopa, vallisneria, onion and dwarf onion plants, and other plants labeled "easy" or "Very easy"
> 
> I didnt post those at the time of the thread's creation, though I might make a more comprehensive easy plant list. The above are not as easily found as whats in the main thread, though-- but online retailers and local pet shops may have them. Sweetaquatics.com is where I buy plants, though the shipping/processing time takes a bit longer than most.
> 
> The ones on the main thread are usually found in most stores, including petsmarts and petcos


Thanks! I will! I'll post my pic as soon as I get set up.


----------



## nel3

PewPewPew said:


> Duckweed is a great plant, and many like it, but in smaller tanks it may over take the top and not allow light in. It also is usually expensive when you buy smaller quantities, rather than larger ones (for people who use it in ponds and buy by the pound).
> 
> Yes, anacharis, provided it likes your tank (it can be fickle at first, but will adapt), will thrive well and usually produce new growths at a fair pace. When the water conditions it really loves are not met/not optimal, growth may be slower.
> 
> It probably wont really over take the 2.5. Usually, when you order a bunch of anacharis, you get 6-8 stems. A few die off usually, and new growths will replace that.
> 
> Anacharis, I have found, reacts less to fertilizers and more to light in terms of growth. When I used ferts, it had fuller, longer leaves, but normal growth. With more light, it grew longer and had more offshoots.
> 
> You can bury anacharis. Stip about an inch to a half inch of leaves from the stems, and bury that under gravel. In a few weeks, it will develop roots like most other plants.
> 
> If it grows too fast, anacharis shoots can be nipped off with a pinch of the fingernails. It isnt fussy where you prune it, either, so you can snip it at the top, the bottom, the sides, where ever, without damaging it, like other plants would.


thank you very much for the info on anacharis. i'll definetly look into that plant for sure. how much would it be to buy in LPS against online stores? i would also like to know how i would clean the substrate (marina aquarium gravel, dust free and semigloss coated) if i root anacharis in it? i can even toss clippings in the 1gal as an ammonia sponge if needed. do live plants add any tannins like IAL do?


----------



## PewPewPew

nel3 said:


> thank you very much for the info on anacharis. i'll definetly look into that plant for sure. how much would it be to buy in LPS against online stores? i would also like to know how i would clean the substrate (marina aquarium gravel, dust free and semigloss coated) if i root anacharis in it? i can even toss clippings in the 1gal as an ammonia sponge if needed. do live plants add any tannins like IAL do?


No they do not, but driftwoods tend to leech tannins.

Buy a siphon or gravel vacuum, theyre usually cheap (under $10, usually around $5) and are found in many places. I use a Top Fin siphon I got at petsmart for $5 and I love it, works great. Use a clean, unused bucket (only water can have been in it) to collect the icky water and to put new water in. Walmart sells blue buckets that hold 2 gallons for only $1.50! 

Sure- I give my anacharis offshoots to friends and such when I find I have too many. I have a small, 1.5 gallon growout for plant trimmings and such-- they get tons of light and fertilizers and then get sent to others as gifts


----------



## Dragonlady

Java fern is a great plant to keep with bettas. They grow very fast in moderate lighting once they are established and attached to something. When the java fern outgrows your tank, it is great excuse to get a larger tank. ;-) Duckweed is a love/ hate relationship. :lol:


----------



## PewPewPew

Haha, very true. My vote is hate, except those precious moments when the bettas come up for air and have a bit of duckweed on their noggins...omg, too cuuuttee!

Id rather have watersprite or water lettuce


----------



## PewPewPew

nel3 said:


> thank you very much for the info on anacharis. i'll definetly look into that plant for sure. how much would it be to buy in LPS against online stores? i would also like to know how i would clean the substrate (marina aquarium gravel, dust free and semigloss coated) if i root anacharis in it? i can even toss clippings in the 1gal as an ammonia sponge if needed. do live plants add any tannins like IAL do?


Oh, sorry! Forgot the other question..

It depends on the amount of plants you wish to buy. I say, if youre gonna buy other plants in a large(er) order, buy the anacharis then. Usually, online, a large amount (6-8 large stems) of anacharis wont run more than $2, usually only $1-1.50.

If youre not planning on getting other plants, then go local, regardless. Shipping for live plants is usually around $7 (minimum) because they need a flat rate box of a fair size. At a LPS, so long as youre getting a decent amount for under $7, its worth it then.

If you buy from an LPS's tank that had fish in it, take care to QT the plants. They usually have some sorta critters on them.

QT always, though. Ideally 3 weeks, but its hard to wait that long! One week minimum, water changes each day if so!


----------



## nel3

PewPewPew said:


> Oh, sorry! Forgot the other question..
> 
> It depends on the amount of plants you wish to buy. I say, if youre gonna buy other plants in a large(er) order, buy the anacharis then. Usually, online, a large amount (6-8 large stems) of anacharis wont run more than $2, usually only $1-1.50.
> 
> If youre not planning on getting other plants, then go local, regardless. Shipping for live plants is usually around $7 (minimum) because they need a flat rate box of a fair size. At a LPS, so long as youre getting a decent amount for under $7, its worth it then.
> 
> If you buy from an LPS's tank that had fish in it, take care to QT the plants. They usually have some sorta critters on them.
> 
> QT always, though. Ideally 3 weeks, but its hard to wait that long! One week minimum, water changes each day if so!


ty pewpewpew. i could get 5 stalks of anacharis on AB $3 +$6-9 shipping. but i'll drop by the LPS today. i saw a 5x5 foot tank of live plants there (no fish in), didnt ask about prices though but i'll do so today. given they can be 6-8 inches or more will the 2.5g for the fish (approx jul 24 shipping) be fine or the .5g (anacharis weighted down) do? the .5g doesnt have a light but i could put it near a window. is conditioner needed to QT plants?


----------



## Lion Mom

"is conditioner needed to QT plants?"

IMO/E - no. Matter of fact, it is better to QT them in non-conditioned water since it doesn't hurt the plants, but will hurt any critters. At least that is what I do. 
__________________


----------



## nel3

ty Lion Mom. i dropped by LPS and they're selling 3 plants for $10. the employee there was not a plant expert and didnt know it by sight, neither did i for single stalks. good thing is that they're willing to order live plants. i'll drop by again with a picture of anacharis later to see ots its in stock, some look familiar to it but not %100 sure. they had a guide book for plants but i didnt look up its scientific name before hand, egeria densa. 3 planta for $10 was the price for any of the plants they were selling irregardles of species. ist its decent price?


----------



## Shimizoki

Lion Mom said:


> "is conditioner needed to QT plants?"
> 
> IMO/E - no. Matter of fact, it is better to QT them in non-conditioned water since it doesn't hurt the plants, but will hurt any critters. At least that is what I do.
> __________________


I actually throw my plants into the pool for a few minutes. The extra chlorine does wonders to kill off anything that might be living on it. Then I soak and wash it in tap water to make sure there is no chlorine before putting it in the tank.


----------



## Lion Mom

Shimizoki said:


> I actually throw my plants into the pool for a few minutes. The extra chlorine does wonders to kill off anything that might be living on it. Then I soak and wash it in tap water to make sure there is no chlorine before putting it in the tank.


If I had a pool, I would do the same thing!!! :-D


----------



## astoda

You guys are so smart. I wish one of you lived close by and could just tell me how to do this all right.


----------



## PewPewPew

That doesn't sound like a bad price.


----------



## Lion Mom

astoda said:


> You guys are so smart. I wish one of you lived close by and could just tell me how to do this all right.


You're making me blush, but thank you. :-D It's not that we are so smart, it's just that we have been doing this longer than you. 

We DO live close - on the forum. Sometimes, the internet is a wonderful thing!!!


----------



## nel3

PewPewPew said:


> That doesn't sound like a bad price.


thank you, would it crowd the tank if i got 2 anacharis and 1 java fern? a java fern may be a good idea for a sleeping area for the fish but i dont know how much it'll grow. atm im thinking of laying 1 or 2 anacharis on top of the tank if theyre free floating in the shop the rest will be tethered or set on removable stands. just how many plants would be too much for a 2.5 gal?


----------



## bahamut285

I got 4 bunches (lol thats what they ring them up as) of water wisteria today, they look beautiful!

I let them sit around in a non-chlorinated bucket of water for a few hours...rinsed them off then put in a bucket of dechlorinated water for another few hours, then popped then into my tank 

How densely planted is "too much" for bettas? Lin's tank looks a little jungle-y at the moment, the bunches they sell at my LPS are like cabbages O_O. She seems to enjoy swimming on/through/in them so I guess it's okay for now X_X


----------



## LittleBettaFish

My sorority is so densely planted I usually come in to find someone 'docked' on top of the riccia, or slithering their way through the milfoil. 

None of my girls seem to mind it, and I suppose it's a good way to slow aggression in there. I've found with some of my shyer fish, that if they are provided with more hiding places, they often become more confident because they know they have somewhere to retreat to.


----------



## nel3

i gjust got 1 bunch of anacharis, the store employee knew what it was but by its scientific name. i put it in the 2.5g fishless and put the light on. how long does the light have to ne on for anacharis?


----------



## bahamut285

@LBF: Aww that sounds adorable, haha. Thanks!


----------



## nel3

that sound more disturbing to be than adorable to me. im a bit paranoid that the betta will get wedged in the plant. i like swimming betta but slithering betta not so much.


----------



## LittleBettaFish

How is that disturbing? In the wild their habitat is more densely planted than my tank and I'm assuming they have to slither over/through things to get places. 

I've watched two or three of my females *line up *to push across the riccia, so obviously if it was stressful to them, they wouldn't do it so often. They just wriggle their bums and slide across it.


----------



## astoda

LittleBettaFish said:


> How is that disturbing? In the wild their habitat is more densely planted than my tank and I'm assuming they have to slither over/through things to get places.
> 
> I've watched two or three of my females *line up *to push across the riccia, so obviously if it was stressful to them, they wouldn't do it so often. They just wriggle their bums and slide across it.


Too cute!!! I want a video!


----------



## nel3

LittleBettaFish said:


> How is that disturbing? In the wild their habitat is more densely planted than my tank and I'm assuming they have to slither over/through things to get places.
> 
> I've watched two or three of my females *line up *to push across the riccia, so obviously if it was stressful to them, they wouldn't do it so often. They just wriggle their bums and slide across it.


call me paranoid but i fear that my betta might get too stressed if he has to constatly slither.

i'm loving the anacharis i got today. did a 50wc on my 1gal had 1.5 stalks (8 inches=1 stalk). got between .25 and .5ppm and after a few hours its down to zero.


----------



## LittleBettaFish

Oh, mine don't have to constantly slither through plants. There's plenty of room left at the bottom/middle levels of the tank for them to swim around. 

Here's a picture of my tank about a week and a half after I set it up. It's now nearly a month old but the only thing changed is the milfoil and riccia filling in more up the top to create a sort of bushy blanket.










Edit: It's bigger than it looks. I think it's around 7 or so gallons (12 inch cube). This is their temporary home. They are moving out into my 15 gallon tank soon.


----------



## nel3

my 2.5g tank is holding 90% of my anacharis so its covered pretty well on top. going to make a silk plant with the cuttings from the one in the 1 gal. the silk plant was too packed in the 1 gal. that will be the only items aside from gravel, filter and fish in the tank.


----------



## Bettawolf19

Hey LittleBettaFish? Where did you get a cube like that?


----------



## LittleBettaFish

It's my Do!Aqua cube tank which is like a cheaper off-shoot of the ADA range. I do know in America though, there are heaps of cheaper rimless cubes produced by other companies that are basically identical :-D


----------



## Bettawolf19

I wouldn't even know where to think something like that would be sold at. Lol all the ones i'm seeing are $50+


----------



## LittleBettaFish

Yeah rimless tanks (especially ADA branded ones) are probably almost always going to cost more than traditional glass tanks. The level of workmanship and quality of the glass used is much higher than the typical tanks you find at your LFS. Plus the glass has to be thicker to accommodate the fact that there is no brace holding it together.

I somehow managed to snare a custom made 450 litre rimless/braceless tank on ebay for $280. It weighs 80 kilograms empty because the glass is 12mm thick. So maybe if you look around on ebay you can find something cheaper there. 

I think in the long run, I've spent more money on tanks than fish!


----------



## corvinusvz

cableguy69846 said:


> The crypto parva is a low light plant. I had it in a tank with 2 watts per gallon and it was fine. The Echinodorus cardifolius is a medium light plant. You may have some problems with it in that light. The other crypto, I am not sure about. I had some in a 20 high with 15 watt T8, and it did ok. But it would be a hit or miss. Good luck man.
> 
> I also found something that said the other crypto is a low light plant.


Damn! Didn’t saw you post sorry!
Thanks, it seems that you are right, I thought it said high light requirement, but it was something like this: don’t let other plants overshadow it. (I believe I have some minor problems jajaja) the "I'm not shure" echinodorus seems healthy, maybe it just needed to grow some roots.

Thanks


----------



## nel3

how much light do the anacharis need? i usually put the light on for 3-4hrs. they're already growing roots. how do you tell if a stalk is dead? i presume its when it turns brown but would the oldest sections die first?


----------



## Bettawolf19

Ah got ya. Lol I was looking online at a place that does shelving and display units for stores and the prices weren't to bad. around $30 or so for a 9 by 12 box I believe.


----------



## cableguy69846

corvinusvz said:


> Damn! Didn’t saw you post sorry!
> Thanks, it seems that you are right, I thought it said high light requirement, but it was something like this: don’t let other plants overshadow it. (I believe I have some minor problems jajaja) the "I'm not shure" echinodorus seems healthy, maybe it just needed to grow some roots.
> 
> Thanks


Lol. No problem man.


----------



## PewPewPew

Anacharis can grow in that light as well as high light. Mine grew in 10-12 hours just as happy as 4 hours. Try for 6.

And nel, as long as the fish can surface for air, its fine. You dont need to worry.
Its dead when its clear or browning.


----------



## nel3

PewPewPew said:


> Anacharis can grow in that light as well as high light. Mine grew in 10-12 hours just as happy as 4 hours. Try for 6.
> 
> And nel, as long as the fish can surface for air, its fine. You dont need to worry.
> Its dead when its clear or browning.


thank you Pewpewpew, some leaf sections are browning/clear but the top stem remaining is green. i'll remove those sections to makea a bit more room. the stems arent that packed in the tank. ive already noticed growth on some anachadis near the lower part of the tank, the top half has a bit more brown than the bottom.

the fish will have enough room to surface. would a blue chrismas light provide enough light in the 1g? apparently the previous owner said the white bulbs burnt out too fast.


----------



## PewPewPew

A christmas light?

I dont know what you mean.

If youre worried about a bulb burning out too fast, it could be two problems:

The kind of bulb is sucky-- opt for florescent bulbs, within the CORRECT range for the lamp/hood. It will say what type on it and the needed wattage, Never over do it! In a 1 gallon, you dont need more than 10w. Anything in the 5000-6500K (daylight) range is great.

The lamp/hood may be dying or the wiring is going bad. If so, consider getting a new hood or replacing the top with a hommade one (like using crafting mesh or plexiglass with HOLES!) and having a light like a desk light with a bulb like above to help grow plants 

If you can manage, try rubbing away the browning sections. I do when mine get icky. Gently rubbing it between your fingers gets the cruds loose. Or, strip all the brown clear off.


----------



## nel3

thank you Pewpewpew. its more of a decoration light. i didnt think to ask him how long such light bulb lasted before as i didnt really use the light until the plants were in. he's on vacation atm so calling him is a bit inconvenient now. wiring looks good on the lamp hood. 

i'll try rubbing off all the brown leaves on the plants in the 2.5g. the 2.5 has a buld thats no more than 15w as the tank is new. is it possible to burn the leaves from too much light if anacharis is a low light plant by nature?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## PewPewPew

I do not suggest using that bulb. Instead, opt for a compact florescent bulb at the correct wattage or a tubular florescent bulb like those they sell in walmart from Lights of America for $5 

Anacharis likes high light just fine. Actually, in ponds and whatnot, where its become rather invasive (lol) it grows strong and many in huge amounts of light at the surface.

It does fairly well (with slowed growth) in low light and does fine in high light. The only way to really kill anacharis is to fry it in temps over 85'F (prolonged), to use Excel by seachem (they dont mix well, IMO..) or to have very very sucky water params, in which case, it will melt away BUT will continue to grow and adapt, though it just needs a bit of time 

Good luck nel, I hope to see your nice tank soon


----------



## nel3

PewPewPew said:


> I do not suggest using that bulb. Instead, opt for a compact florescent bulb at the correct wattage or a tubular florescent bulb like those they sell in walmart from Lights of America for $5
> 
> Anacharis likes high light just fine. Actually, in ponds and whatnot, where its become rather invasive (lol) it grows strong and many in huge amounts of light at the surface.
> 
> It does fairly well (with slowed growth) in low light and does fine in high light. The only way to really kill anacharis is to fry it in temps over 85'F (prolonged), to use Excel by seachem (they dont mix well, IMO..) or to have very very sucky water params, in which case, it will melt away BUT will continue to grow and adapt, though it just needs a bit of time
> 
> Good luck nel, I hope to see your nice tank soon


thank you Pewpewpew. i had a feeling blue light bulb wouldn't do too well for plants. looksl ike the original light was a type 2 5w maximum. so far ive done 100wc every 3 days in the 2.5g with conditioner, even tossed 1 stalk in the 1 gal. how would infections and disease show up in plants alone? the anacharis i got was in a plants only tank at LPS. what sort of water parameters does anacharis dislike?


----------



## PewPewPew

They like what they lived in previously  Generally speaking, if you live around where the plants were bought, its should be similar to what theyre used to.

They like harder water over softer (IME) and like in the under 80'F range best.

You wouldnt see the diseases or anything, but its good to allow them time to "disinfect". Letting them chill out in the QT for a while is fine


----------



## nel3

PewPewPew said:


> They like what they lived in previously  Generally speaking, if you live around where the plants were bought, its should be similar to what theyre used to.
> 
> They like harder water over softer (IME) and like in the under 80'F range best.
> 
> You wouldnt see the diseases or anything, but its good to allow them time to "disinfect". Letting them chill out in the QT for a while is fine


thank you. i think our hard water is a bit on the harder side, shows up on the surfaces of our faucets. the LPS is only 7 blocks away from the house. i had alot of time to get the plants in qt, 10-14 days before the fish shipping date. the fish should ship in 3 days, waiting for confirmation.


----------



## PewPewPew

Awesome! By the time it arrives, the plants should be a-ok. That water should be fine, too-- no problems.


----------



## Loralyn94

This guide is amazing and so helpful! I wasnt sure what plants to get for my tank and this is just a wonderful outline of what to expect. I just took a shot in the dark and bought some Amazon Sword and Water Wisteria, which from the looks of this shouldnt be that hard to care for. I do plan to also grab some other plants based on what i've read here.
Thanks so much for this!


----------



## PewPewPew

No problem! Remember to get root tabs for the sword!


----------



## fishcurl

I'm still looking for local plants, PewPewPew, I promise!

In the meantime, I have a couple of questions (lol, yeah, I know, me asking questions is totally abnormal ;-) )

1. Do I need to QT the plants? If so, for how long? I have a spare tank but it's not heated.

2. When adding a plant to a tank, what's the best way of doing it without scaring the fish? I plan on swapping one fake plant for every real plant I put in. I was thinking of doing this not all at once but gradually.


----------



## Loralyn94

PewPewPew said:


> No problem! Remember to get root tabs for the sword!


This may be a completely dumb question, but i figured i'd go ahead and ask. What exactly are root tabs? I dont believe i've seen/heard of them before.


----------



## Nexangelus

Root tabs are an iron-rich supplement in the form of a cube or small block. You bury them in the substrate near root feeders to supply them with necessary nutrients. Most are slow-dissolving (time released, in a way) and are active for a month or so. Essential for those who aren't using plant-specific substrate.


----------



## PewPewPew

fishcurl said:


> I'm still looking for local plants, PewPewPew, I promise!
> 
> In the meantime, I have a couple of questions (lol, yeah, I know, me asking questions is totally abnormal ;-) )
> 
> 1. Do I need to QT the plants? If so, for how long? I have a spare tank but it's not heated.
> I would, yes. I usually shove them into my unused 1.5 or .5 gallon tanks with some water and a liiittle bit of fertilizer for at least a week, not heated either.
> QTing the plants gives you a chance to squish and remove any critters that tag along. I dont use dechlorinator in the water for that time (usually a few days), which is ok for the plants for the time, but tends to kill the non-snail nasties.
> If you see a snail, a tiny one, kill it fast and mercifully. Squish it.
> If youre getting plants from the tubes in petsmart (these are usually good, assuming you buy actually aquatic ones lol!) they dont really need to be in QT, but should anyway for a couple days. I like to to help the plants adjust and pick off any dead leaves and whatnot.
> Qt at least a week, best yet 3 weeks. Change the water every day or two, to nix critters.
> 
> 2. When adding a plant to a tank, what's the best way of doing it without scaring the fish? I plan on swapping one fake plant for every real plant I put in. I was thinking of doing this not all at once but gradually.


Oh? Why?
There's no harm in shoving them all in. I dont think the fish would be too frightened. My fish's planted tanks seems to get rearranged a lot (Heehee!) and they come back in like, "Mum, wth. *searches about* I LIKE THIS, YES!"
I would remove the fish when you add a new plant in, for good measure. Especially a new fish. My kids just dont care anymore, and happily nom at my hand while its in there (sigh). But yours may find it stressful, and its best not to test that with ill results, yeh?

Be sure to acclimate the fish back into the water once you remove it for a time 

If a plant floats back up or something, and you dont feel like removing the fish, then go ahead. But for putting them in initially, remove them. Makes it easier for both of you! 

There are Aquabid sellers in canada, me thinks, that sell to canadians. Look under plants on aquabid.com if you cant find a place by home 



Nexangelus said:


> Root tabs are an iron-rich supplement in the form of a cube or small block. You bury them in the substrate near root feeders to supply them with necessary nutrients. Most are slow-dissolving (time released, in a way) and are active for a month or so. Essential for those who aren't using plant-specific substrate.


^^^Yes, yes! Thanks, Nex. <3

API and Seachem make them, which are commonly found. Pay mind to the dosing, though...they're usually "1 tab for 10 gallons". I have a 5 gallon tank and use half the tab. I score the tab and break it, then add the half to the soil.

Root tabs are a good alternative when you cant get your hands on that nice nutrient rich substrate. I wish I could!


----------



## Nexangelus

My pleasure, Pew! Didn't mean to steal your thunder, just wanted to make sure he knew what root tabs were incase he was ready to pull the trigger and buy some! 

And to heck with the dosing instructions on root tabs! I threw all 10 in my tank (which has a flourite substrate, mind you) and my growth has been frightening. I'd say don't mind the dosing instructions too much, but perhaps what I'm doing is a bit of overkill.  

Oh, and the dosing on the Seachem root tabs is "1 per 6 inches". I just checked. Maybe the API ones are a more bang for your buck, but I've always viewed API as more of a "store brand" of products... You know, like grocery store brands of cereal. Maybe I'm wrong in thinking this, but I never felt they were great quality.


----------



## PewPewPew

Is it? API's (It was cheaper...LOL!!!) is 1 per 30 square inches (holy crap!), aka, a 10 gallon, lol!

Thats some srs fertilizing! I only like to have them by my swords, because when I go to siphon/vacuum, I get the gunky white tab remnants and it freaks me out D: I tend to accidentally suck the tabs up after a week, sigh. I forget.

And pft, I dont mind. Thanks for helping out, I havent been online much lately. Got Portal 2 and "The Help" (book), so Ive been...preoccupied! 

I appreciate it when people who know what they're doing help on my threads, its nice to chat with others who can help and share info that I didnt know myself  You and cableguy are my Plant Guide Help squad, LOL! <3 <3 <3

Edit:

I hear you on API's stuff. Its more common, though, which I know is an important factor on these forums, since not too many of us look for the lesser-known and found brands for things due to cost, etc.

I do stand by them, though.. Ive used their products and have no complaints. Its like the off-brands usually are:
Theyre very much edible, cheaper, maybe not as "fancy" and dont taste like the name brands, but per price, they dont do half bad! And best yet, each store has their own, lol!

API, Seachem (for the most part, minus the usual expensiveness.. ), TopFin and (especially) Marineland are my favs, per commonly found products


----------



## thePWNISHER

I actually just take a note of what brands are at Wal-Mart and cross them off my list of brands I would ever buy.


----------



## LittleBettaFish

I use a mixture of blood and bone clay tablets and Seachem tabs in my tanks. I always find it amazing to see how the roots actually grip the fragments of root tabs (I smash mine up with a hammer first) whenever I pull up a plant to move it elsewhere.

I can always tell when I've recently put tabs near my crypts, they start sending off all these new shoots and taking over the bottom of my tanks with their root systems. I find it also helps stop crypt melt, which is good because all my crypt tanks get at least 50% changes every 2nd day so they have no room to be sulky. 

At the moment I'm experimenting with fertiliser brands. I just scaped my first 'proper' tank (Fluval Edge with the top panel removed) this afternoon and am about to try Pogo helferi, Rotala sp. Green and some Crypt parva. 

Currently, I plan to use a combination of ADA fertilisers and this other brand called Ferka. Trying to avoid using aquasoil, and instead use a mixture of laterite, crushed up root tabs/clay tablets and some 'initial fertilizer' sticks I got in the substrate beneath my gravel.

It will either be a raging success, or a complete and utter failure, but I suppose it doesn't hurt to try :-D


----------



## fishcurl

Thank you, Pew! You're like the Fountain Of All Things Fishy! :-D

I finally found some Wisteria at my local Petsmart (they only have one big tank of plants, nothing in tubes). I had a cranky toddler last night so the best I could do was toss it into the QT tank with Gleep. The water is conditioned in there; I'll do a change this afternoon and swap it for non-treated. I forgot to look for fertilizer so I'll try to do that today, too.

Hopefully by the time the QT week is up, Flambé will be used to me enough that I can shove it in there without too much trouble.

I checked Aquabid; looks like there's a couple Canadian sellers. Yay!


----------



## PewPewPew

Great! And that's fine. I love when places have tanks full of plants. Wisteria's really nice, once you allow it to recuperate from adjusting, you can propagate it easily and you'll have lots of new plants 

And LBF, let us know how it all goes


----------



## LittleBettaFish

PewPewPew said:


> Great! And that's fine. I love when places have tanks full of plants. Wisteria's really nice, once you allow it to recuperate from adjusting, you can propagate it easily and you'll have lots of new plants
> 
> And LBF, let us know how it all goes


If you hear nothing from me, it didn't go well at all :lol: Going to post up some shots of the hardscape and my new fish Au Lait. Mum has yet to notice my new addition.


----------



## PewPewPew

What she doesnt know wont hurt her, eh? 

I hope it goes well for you, and I hope Au Lait is happies and well, but Im sure thats a non-issue!


----------



## fishcurl

I picked up something called Cabomba today. I learned after the fact that it needs CO2. Since I'm not about to get into CO2 systems, I'm expecting it to die 

Here's a pic of the QT tank. I put in a filter to get some water movement happening and some gravel to let the plants root. Is this okay?

You can see Gleep in the corner getting friendly with the filter, lol.

EDIT: Oh, and I picked up some API Liquid Fertilizer. It's in the tank, too.


----------



## PewPewPew

It doesnt *need* c02. Most places say ZOMG, NEEDS CO2, but they really dont. Unless you're battling some form of dainty ludwigia or something, meh.

Cabomba does like temps at or under 78'F, though. Ideally, 76 and under, though 77'F was alright when I had it.


I do not believe cabomba will grow roots, I think its like hornwort in that regard. It will be ok to bury though, just no roots from this plant.
Its also a pissypants and will drop nettles and get grouchy. Grouchy cabomba, why you so grouchy?

Clean the nettles up regularly, as they get foul and can become toxic over time (lots of time, you wont need to worry).

It will grow like a weed, too. It'll suck up all the excess nutrients in the tank for you, so algae is a non-issue with that family of plants. It may well die, but it shouldnt. 

I wish you didnt live in Canada, I would send you a baby java fern :c Stupid customs!

Oh, and look for those (java fern)..theyre cool. B) Hehe.

Edit:
Oh, and I dont think that filter is supposed to go like that... I had one and it said to fill the water to the lip of the spout. That way, too, it oxygenates the water for the plants


----------



## Loralyn94

Nexangelus said:


> Root tabs are an iron-rich supplement in the form of a cube or small block. You bury them in the substrate near root feeders to supply them with necessary nutrients. Most are slow-dissolving (time released, in a way) and are active for a month or so. Essential for those who aren't using plant-specific substrate.


I understand now, Thanks so much!


----------



## PewPewPew

Im in the process of writing another, better guide. I've added a section on lighting, substrates, fertilizers and what to avoid (like those plants that they sell that arent aquatic, lol!) as well as a bunch more easy-care plants.

Its still limited, but I think Ive gotten about all that I can into this newer guide. I still want to keep what I have listed easy to find. Nothing like wanting a plant, only to find out its sorta hard to get :/

Im gonna see if maybe (I feel silly for saying it...) I can get the v.2 one stickied, for reference. Goodness knows we get tons of the same questions, over and over  Hehehe <3

Awww, here it goes! (lol!!)


----------



## Nexangelus

Ohh a guide! Can I contribute a high-tech section complete with the harder plants and help with those looking to transition in to a high-tech setup? I guess it wouldn't be used as much with betta setups, but it may be cool for the few thinking about it or wondering what they can do to go "all-out".

Feel free to bounce any ideas or questions you have off of me. Seems like we've both tried a good number of fertalizers and substrates and could make a pretty complete guide. Have you seen OFL's tanks in the picture forum? We may need to employ her knowledge, too!

@LittleBettaFish: What you're doing sounds really cool - I rarely see laterite used anymore now that all these fancy "plant ready" substrates are around. Would you mind throwing up a picture or messaging me an image of your tank? I'd love to see it, even if it's not complete yet!


----------



## PewPewPew

Heehee, I am quite the creeper on OFL's tanks... Poor OFl, Im always right up in her business every time she shows her tanks off. God love her for not telling me to go scratch!  <3 <3 Hahaha!

What kinds of ferts have you/do you use and like? I cant think of any more to list, but usually only go by what chain stores have. I want my guide to be easy-care and easy-find, which is usually ok, but for ferts and stuff I know Im personally willing to go out of my way to find something better than usual >.<

Do you know the names of some good (or even decent) enriched substrates? How about you, LBF or cableguy, if youre here lurking? (lol <3)

Ive never been able to get my mits on it, and only know a brand or two 

Also, root tabs. I can find like. Two. Sigh. Root tabs, why y no be easier to find?

I dunno if a high-tech guide would fare well on here, per se, since people tend to have smaller tanks and are beginners... But I know we're desperadoes for a good, solid bit on lighting. Lighting can get a but muddled, especially when talking about smaller tanks. I find myself having trouble when the questions go beyond the basis like K rating and WPG and whatnot D: 

I do okay just shoving plants in, bit of fertilizer, some root tabs, turn on the lights... Done! Derp!

Less fuss XD Though God knows, I SO want c02, but cant have it at home or in the dorms..boo.


----------



## Nexangelus

I primarily use seachem's line, just because it's availible at my LFS and I get an employee discount, but I've done a bit of reading and will be doing some tests using a few online sources, mainly Pfertz and will try a hand at mixing my own, which the "gurus" swear by... It's supposedly cheaper and more effective. I'm willing to give it a try. 

Sure do... Flourite is what I swear by, but eco-complete definitely has it's advantages, mostly that it comes in a "sand" form. Any sort of carpet does WAY better in eco-complete, simply because the flourite has really thick, dense granules.... On the other hand, flourite has been proven to retain it's iron-rich properties for years, whereas eco-complete hasn't been around long enough to prove itself. I'd say those are the best two... There are some crummy brands around, but I wouldn't trust them. They're not that much cheaper and haven't been proven. Only other one to look in to is ADA Aquasoil, which I need to do more reading on before I can provide a knowledgeable opinion.

I figured there wouldn't be much of an audience for high-tech tanks here... I'm always open for questions though! But I'm more than open to help you out with the more technical aspects of lighting... Just ask away. 

C02 isn't even a huge space-consuming thing anymore. The one I have hangs on the back of the tank and as you saw, just has a bit of tubing connecting the waterbottle-like canister to the ladder. They're only like 30 dollars, too. 

Your avatar is pretty. I like his tail...


----------



## LittleBettaFish

I usually only use ADA aquasoil or plain gravel/sand enriched with tablet fertilisers. However, someone did this awesome experiment growing crypts in pots, to test several different brands of substrates and additives. I found it really interesting to see what worked best.

http://www.aquariumlife.com.au/showthread.php/25662-Substrate-Experiment-Commercial

ADA aquasoil made my hairgrass and crypts grow insanely fast, but I don't really like it from an aesthetics point of view, as well as the fact it leeches a LOT (like more than 4ppm) of ammonia.


----------



## fishcurl

PewPewPew said:


> It doesnt *need* c02. Most places say ZOMG, NEEDS CO2, but they really dont. Unless you're battling some form of dainty ludwigia or something, meh.


Whew! That's good to know. But it's not like I'll be too much out of pocket. The only reason why I bought it was because it was on sale 

I may not put it into Flambé's tank though. I didn't realize it drops nettles. Sounds messy and high-maintenance 



PewPewPew said:


> I wish you didnt live in Canada, I would send you a baby java fern :c Stupid customs!


Awww, aren't you sweet! Thank you 

I'll keep looking for them; they're really purdy.



PewPewPew said:


> Oh, and I dont think that filter is supposed to go like that... I had one and it said to fill the water to the lip of the spout. That way, too, it oxygenates the water for the plants


I uh...erm...I put it like that to...uh...you know...test you. You know...to see if you'd notice that I put it in completely wrong. Yeah...that's it *shifty eyes*

Okay, no, I didn't. Cranky toddler again yesterday and I just threw it in the tank without reading the instructions 

I pulled it up last night after seeing your note. This morning the pump noise is driving me batty. If I can't make it shush, back to the store it goes.

EDIT: An expanded guide would be awesome! Pros and cons of tablet vs liquid fertilizers and a section on quarantine would be nice additions


----------



## PewPewPew

Nexangelus said:


> I primarily use seachem's line, just because it's availible at my LFS and I get an employee discount, but I've done a bit of reading and will be doing some tests using a few online sources, mainly Pfertz and will try a hand at mixing my own, which the "gurus" swear by... It's supposedly cheaper and more effective. I'm willing to give it a try.
> 
> Sure do... Flourite is what I swear by, but eco-complete definitely has it's advantages, mostly that it comes in a "sand" form. Any sort of carpet does WAY better in eco-complete, simply because the flourite has really thick, dense granules.... On the other hand, flourite has been proven to retain it's iron-rich properties for years, whereas eco-complete hasn't been around long enough to prove itself. I'd say those are the best two... There are some crummy brands around, but I wouldn't trust them. They're not that much cheaper and haven't been proven. Only other one to look in to is ADA Aquasoil, which I need to do more reading on before I can provide a knowledgeable opinion.
> 
> I figured there wouldn't be much of an audience for high-tech tanks here... I'm always open for questions though! But I'm more than open to help you out with the more technical aspects of lighting... Just ask away.
> 
> C02 isn't even a huge space-consuming thing anymore. The one I have hangs on the back of the tank and as you saw, just has a bit of tubing connecting the waterbottle-like canister to the ladder. They're only like 30 dollars, too.
> 
> Your avatar is pretty. I like his tail...


Ooh, thank you. I'll look them all up and whatnot. If I can find a store that sells it (our petsmart/cos dont, though Im not sure why), Id get it right quick. I tend to not do grasses or carpets, mostly because I move about from my dorm to home and it's a really rough trip, all plants need uprooting 

My dorm doesnt allow it... Too many mishaps, probably. Oh goodness. My parents can barely stand my one tank as is (I can have only one here, bagh!) and its got nothing fancy. If the opportunity arises, though, I'm gonna jump on c02 right quick!

And thank you! <3 His name is Balthier, aka Baller, because he's ballin'. He's more of a triple tail now that a serious bit of fin rot struck him, so he wont be quite that nicely tailed again. That's fine, though. He's such a sweet soul <3



fishcurl said:


> Whew! That's good to know. But it's not like I'll be too much out of pocket. The only reason why I bought it was because it was on sale
> 
> I may not put it into Flambé's tank though. I didn't realize it drops nettles. Sounds messy and high-maintenance
> 
> 
> I uh...erm...I put it like that to...uh...you know...test you. You know...to see if you'd notice that I put it in completely wrong. Yeah...that's it *shifty eyes*
> 
> Okay, no, I didn't. Cranky toddler again yesterday and I just threw it in the tank without reading the instructions
> 
> I pulled it up last night after seeing your note. This morning the pump noise is driving me batty. If I can't make it shush, back to the store it goes.
> 
> EDIT: An expanded guide would be awesome! Pros and cons of tablet vs liquid fertilizers and a section on quarantine would be nice additions


Heehee, its ok. That filter's buzzing airrator drove me bonkers, urgh! If you wrap it in a wash cloth and then perhaps mount it onto something higher up (like take a book, stand it up and tape the airrator to it), the filter will perform better. The buzzing will go away with tweaking, though- give it time!!

Will and have done! 
Really, tablet and liquid arent so much pros and cons.. Its more of, which one works best for the plants at hand. If youve got wisteria, anacharis and cabomba, then you're gonna want liquid, because thats how they eat.
But if you've got swords, crypts and hygros (well, Idk about them but whatever! lol!), they're gonna really benefit from the tabs.

If you've got both, then use both!


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## PewPewPew

LittleBettaFish said:


> I usually only use ADA aquasoil or plain gravel/sand enriched with tablet fertilisers. However, someone did this awesome experiment growing crypts in pots, to test several different brands of substrates and additives. I found it really interesting to see what worked best.
> 
> http://www.aquariumlife.com.au/showthread.php/25662-Substrate-Experiment-Commercial
> 
> ADA aquasoil made my hairgrass and crypts grow insanely fast, but I don't really like it from an aesthetics point of view, as well as the fact it leeches a LOT (like more than 4ppm) of ammonia.


ooh, thanks for the link, LBF!

Oh goodness, it does? I wouldnt have known that. That's a very large amount, to be sure. D:

And hey! Whats with the avatar change, huh? I didnt recognize you! I thought, oh- hey. That looks like LBF's Au LaitOHWAIT IT IS!

I see what you're trying to do, tryin' to confuse me!


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## LittleBettaFish

Haha he's in my avatar. Watching you post. 

I was surprised to see how well the basic blood and bone tablets in sand worked out. ADA aquasoil is good, but sometimes I think it's overrated because of the brand. There are a lot of substrate combinations that work just as well.

I think the leeching also differs by the type of substrate. My Malaya leeched out lots of ammonia for nearly a month, while my Africana is only putting out half that much. 

One substrate my crypts grow well in, is common propagating soil. You know you have too many fish tanks when your bedroom is so humid you can grow crypts emersed and not have them dry out.


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## PewPewPew

Oh goodness D: I dont think I'd like that, not one bit. Its too humid already!

Where do you get the blood and bone tabs? They sound so morbid, lol. 

I just redid my tank and forgot I had a root tab in there, oh god, it kicked up so much whiteness, I needed to scrap the tank and remove all the water.  If it wasnt so late, I wouldve let it settle. Booo forgetting.

The tank looks pretty good. I usually put less regard to aesthetics and more to what the fish like (no one but me cares about what the tanks look like D, so lucky Baller gets his tank set up how he likes. A hill in the corner with my young swords and sag to rest in, long plants in the shallow side and moss, grass and young snippets of wisteria.

Lucky kid.


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## PewPewPew

dsfkajehsfhaskdjfakhsd
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=76428

DONE ARGH


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## Bettawolf19

PEWPEWPEW That guide is amazing


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## PewPewPew

Thank you! my second is better! <3 http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=76428


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## Bettawolf19

Lol i know it is silly I was talking about that one lol This ones amazing too


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## PewPewPew

Oh lol XD


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## thePWNISHER

Can i hijack the thread now since its going to be shelved


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## PewPewPew

Hijack it? 
Whatcha mean? You can always ask questions on this or the other thread


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## mattdocs12345

This thread was so hard to find but I found it to be very useful. Any chance of making it a sticky?


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## Hallyx

Good catch, Matt. Should have been stickied years ago.


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