# New Betta Owner - Afraid My Betta is Dying!!!



## fsboroboto (Sep 11, 2010)

I just purchased a male double tail Betta from petco yesterday. He seemed healthy enough then, he wasn't the most active of the bunch but I wanted him so I took him home anyways. His fins were a bit frayed to begin with, but it didn't look like fin rot. He was a bit lethargic at first, and he tended to stay along the sides of his bowl. It is a 1 gallon bowl. The water is tap water with conditioner. Today he was still lethargic, but he seemed to be getting more used to his surroundings. He ate yesterday but would not touch his food today. Since I moved him from his petco container into the bowl (pouring th contents into the bowl water to try to avoid some shock) I decided to give him an entirely new, fresh bowl today. He has gotten progressively worse today, and in the past few hours he has begun to float at the top on his side, almost as if he was trying to have his gills above water. When I came back to my room he was lying on the bottom of the bowl against the rocks, his gills and mouth are working pretty hard. Please help!!! Tell me if I did something wrong! He looks paler, and like there is some black between his scales. His fins and tail are somewhat clamped, but there were like that when I bought him.


----------



## Ajones108 (Jul 7, 2010)

No heater or filter? Type of conditioner? Type of food?


----------



## fsboroboto (Sep 11, 2010)

Ajones108 said:


> No heater or filter? Type of conditioner? Type of food?


No heater or filter. I have his tank under a lamp most of the day but that's it. The conditioner is Kent Marine Betta Bowl Essential, it says it makes tap water safe. Food type is Wardley's Betta Food and they're pellets. he's only eaten one pellet though. 

I just chased him around with a net to try to see if he was responsive and help him to the surface so he could breath... he didn't move at all or try to swim. The only thing on him moving right now are his fins - like CRAZY.

The fins are moving so quickly and forcefully that his entire body is being heaved each time. What immediate things can I do to help him??


----------



## Ajones108 (Jul 7, 2010)

What is the temperature of that water? An ideal minimum is 78 degrees and no higher than 86 with 80-82 being ideal and 86 only being used when treating an illness. How often do you change the water? Any decorations in the tank?


----------



## fsboroboto (Sep 11, 2010)

Ajones108 said:


> What is the temperature of that water? An ideal minimum is 78 degrees and no higher than 86 with 80-82 being ideal and 86 only being used when treating an illness. How often do you change the water? Any decorations in the tank?


I don't have a thermometer for the bowl. I've kept it under a lamp for the past 5 hours, and it doesn't feel too cold or hot. Like I said I got him yesterday, but I took him from his petco container and dumped all of that water into the new bowl and but him in there, along with the conditioner. Then today I gave him an entirely new bowl of a bit warmer water because it felt cool to the touch. there are only glass pebbles on the bottom and growing real plant seeds that are still completely seeds. 

He is really working hard to breathe but can't move at all. Could his swim bladder be swollen? I haven't even fed him more than one pellet!


----------



## Ajones108 (Jul 7, 2010)

If you just dumped him into the tank without temperature and water acclimation and you just got him yesterday, and your water is conditioned, and he's only eaten one pellet, the only thing I can really think of is pH shock. :S But I could be wrong. I'm just stumped. If he don't look bloated I can't say intestinal parasites. Can we get pictures?


----------



## fsboroboto (Sep 11, 2010)

He isn't bloated at all. He's pale, lying on his side on the bottom, motionless, except for working his gills like crazy.


----------



## Ajones108 (Jul 7, 2010)

He looks completely healthy in my eyes, just on his side and breathing heavy... The only things I can say:

Changing from old water to new water too fast. Not properly acclimated to new pH and temperature, and then when you did a water change you made the water hotter than what it was before you added him in. If his condition worsened, the only thing I can think of is the water or a pre-existing gill condition if he's breathing heavily.

Here's what I personally recommend:
1. Get your water tested. If you take a sample down to the pet store they usually do it for free. pH, GH/KH, metals in the water, etc.

2. At this point, I would recommend a more shallow tank. You can get like a 2-4gallon clear rubbermaid storage bin at Wal-Mart for like $4. One of the long, flat ones. Get a Hydor Mini Heater (about $6 at PetSmart if you find one marked down, $12-$13 anywhere else.

3. Prime Water Conditioner made by Seachem. 2 drops per gallon. Excellent stuff, takes care of all your toxins.

4. To help with gill function and electrolytes, I would pick up a small thing of Aquarium Salt from PetSmart or your LFS as well and dose it accordingly. A thermometer would help too, they run like $3 bucks at PetSmart for a glass one.

Anyone else correct me if I'm wrong. :S I just can't figure out what would be wrong besides shock from water, or something in the water...


----------



## Alex09 (Aug 9, 2010)

It could be that he's in shock. It could be the water is too cold. Or it could be that the lamp is making the water too hot.


----------



## fsboroboto (Sep 11, 2010)

Ajones108 said:


> He looks completely healthy in my eyes, just on his side and breathing heavy... The only things I can say:
> 
> Changing from old water to new water too fast. Not properly acclimated to new pH and temperature, and then when you did a water change you made the water hotter than what it was before you added him in. If his condition worsened, the only thing I can think of is the water or a pre-existing gill condition if he's breathing heavily.
> 
> ...


He's not moving though. Do you think he'll die?  I should've gotten more things but to be honest I've never owned a fish, so I got a 1 gallon tank and no meds/thermometer/heater. I just did what the lady at petco told me. I'll empty some of his water out tonight and hope for the best, keeping him under the lamp. I'll try to make a trip out to petco tomorrow. Thanks and wish Phoenix luck.


----------



## fsboroboto (Sep 11, 2010)

Should I keep moving him up to the surface briefly and letting him have some air?? Or not risk hurting him?


----------



## Ajones108 (Jul 7, 2010)

Good luck to Phoenix, but what Alex said, we don't know what temperature that lamp is making the tank either. You need a thermometer to really tell.

IN MY OPINION, bare minimum supplies:

1. 2.5 gallon tank, preferably with a hood to keep them from jumping out. Actually, check this out: http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3611436

OR, since you're paying almost as much for this one as you would for something bigger...

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Hawkeye-5...ner=TnL5HPStwNw&sourceid=37776682640589777636

Two ideal tanks. Filter, hood, light bulb. The only thing its missing is gravel, silk or live plants, and a heater...

2.
http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=11368
25 Watts for 2-5 gallons, 50 Watts for 5 gallons to a certain point.

And then just a glass thermometer.

3. Water conditioner. Prime by Seachem.

4. Food of some sort. I like Atison's Betta Food, purchasable off of www.lnt.com. I also feed freeze-dried bloodworms once a week.

These are the BARE MINIMUMS. If you want to go even further with your little hobby at this point, you could get a freshwater testing kit and even get some live plants for your tank. With the 5gallon tank live plants are amazing. <3 But that is for a different time. Post in the Betta Fish Care forum if you want more suggestions.


----------



## Ajones108 (Jul 7, 2010)

Double post to reply to what you just said:

You should drain about 25% of the water in that 1-gallon bowl to give him more surface area to breathe. Otherwise, let him lay. Sometimes they won't go to surface for quite a few minutes.


----------



## fsboroboto (Sep 11, 2010)

Well crap I just spent $40 bucks getting everything I did at petco. And he's dying the day after. The only problem is that I have VERY limited room. I live in a dormitory and his house is any tank that can fit on my shelving. So I'm afraid the 2.5 thing will be too big. And I need to get aquarium salt and meds, too.

Update: His gills have stopped moving and his fins have begun to lose their color. I think it's a safe bet to assume that he has passed on. I think I'll get a healthier betta and be more prepared...


----------



## Ajones108 (Jul 7, 2010)

The next time someone says they can't get something for their betta cause they live in a dorm is gonna get bopped on the head. >_> I'm a college student, a 2.5gallon sits on my desk (I actually have TWO fishtanks on my desk right now...) and a 5 gallon in my room. No, I'm not keeping ALL of those tanks. Just the 5 gallon. Once the fish in the 4 gallon has gotten healthier he is being moved home. Just cause you're in a dorm doesn't mean you can't provide adequate care.  At least a 2.5 gallon. 5 gallons is easier to care for in college than a 2.5 gallon. Keep me updated, if his gills have stopped moving then RIP pretty fish, I blame the pet store. v_v


----------



## fsboroboto (Sep 11, 2010)

Ajones108 said:


> The next time someone says they can't get something for their betta cause they live in a dorm is gonna get bopped on the head. >_> I'm a college student, a 2.5gallon sits on my desk (I actually have TWO fishtanks on my desk right now...) and a 5 gallon in my room. No, I'm not keeping ALL of those tanks. Just the 5 gallon. Once the fish in the 4 gallon has gotten healthier he is being moved home. Just cause you're in a dorm doesn't mean you can't provide adequate care.  At least a 2.5 gallon. 5 gallons is easier to care for in college than a 2.5 gallon. Keep me updated, if his gills have stopped moving then RIP pretty fish, I blame the pet store. v_v


I don't know how big your dorm is or how much stuff you have, but I honestly don't have that much room. Not to mention, not that much money. Especially after I already bought all this stuff. And I think I deserve a break, I've never owned a fish before, I tried my best. He died shortly after I made that post. I'm thinking of returning the fish bowl and getting aquarium salt, a bigger more self-sufficient tank, a thermometer, etc. Did those 2.5 tanks have a heater?

I'm glad he passed before I was too attached to him and before he suffered too much further from fin rot or whatever was ailing the poor guy. I'm sad but at least now I know what not to do for my next betta.


----------



## Ajones108 (Jul 7, 2010)

The 2.5 gallon tanks do not have a heater. That minibow 2.5 has everything BUT the heater. If you return the stuff you bought to the store AND say the fish died, you should get a full refund for everything, which you can use to get the new minibow, and a heater.  I honestly think that it wasn't your fault he died. A fish dying that fast after getting him home, it was definitely a pre-existing ailment. When you go to the pet store, take some of your water with you, and have it checked.  We'll get you set up in no time.


----------



## fsboroboto (Sep 11, 2010)

Ajones108 said:


> The 2.5 gallon tanks do not have a heater. That minibow 2.5 has everything BUT the heater. If you return the stuff you bought to the store AND say the fish died, you should get a full refund for everything, which you can use to get the new minibow, and a heater.  I honestly think that it wasn't your fault he died. A fish dying that fast after getting him home, it was definitely a pre-existing ailment. When you go to the pet store, take some of your water with you, and have it checked.  We'll get you set up in no time.


I already have all my desk space taken up. I would need to fit it on my shelves. I'll have to look and see what kinds petco has, they're the only pet store near me. I would really like to get another betta or possibly another type of fish. I want some sort of pet and a fish fits my situation. I just don't want them to keep dying. I don't have the receipt for the fish or supplies, think they'll still let me return anything? T_T;;


----------



## Ajones108 (Jul 7, 2010)

http://www.petco.com/product/110703...it-in-Blue.aspx?CoreCat=HPFS_DesktopAquariums

I highly recommend getting a 2.5. When you go to PetCo and see the size of the tank then you'll be surprised at the ideal size. You should be able to accommodate it.


----------



## fsboroboto (Sep 11, 2010)

Ajones108 said:


> http://www.petco.com/product/110703...it-in-Blue.aspx?CoreCat=HPFS_DesktopAquariums
> 
> I highly recommend getting a 2.5. When you go to PetCo and see the size of the tank then you'll be surprised at the ideal size. You should be able to accommodate it.


Alright, but you mentioned them letting me return my old stuff. Do you think they'll let me return the old tank and get a refund when I tell them the fish died when I don't have a receipt or tags for it anymore?


----------



## Oldfishlady (Mar 1, 2010)

When you have limited space and funds-you can still successfully keep a betta-provided that you are willing to make the needed water changes.

Although-a 2+gallon filtered, heated tank is best and can give you some wiggle room so-to-speak....when life happens.......you can still successfully keep a happy thriving Betta Splendens in smaller volumes of water in my opinion/experience.

Using live stem type and/or floating plants can also help in maintaining water quality and giving you that all needed wiggle room when life happens.........

In 1-2g-unfiltered containers with one adult Betta with or without live plants, a few hiding places and something in the tank that goes all the way to the top-like a plant leaf (real or silk)-by making 2-3 times a week 50% water changes and 1-weekly 100% water change should keep the water quality at levels safe for the Betta-provided that you don't over feed and you remove any uneaten food after feeding.

Keep the water temp within a few degrees from new and old water with water changes to prevent temp related problems and use a good dechlorinator with any water added to the fish if you are on city water supply-you want to find a dechlorinator that covers-chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals. Run the water through the tap for at least 1 minute to clear the line of most of the metals that can pool before use with the Betta-especially if your dorm is in an old building.

Make a 50-100% water change anytime you see any behavior change or odd behavior even if you just did a water change earlier in the day....the first thing you want to rule out is the environment...sometimes it can be as simple as not enough dechlorinator or something on your hands.

Water temp is a big issues in the smaller tanks, however, you can get the small 7.5w-10w heaters and safely heat the tank-keeping the water in the 76-80F range

Ideally-larger is better, but often we can't provide that for what ever reason and that shouldn't keep/stop a person from enjoying this hobby and keeping a Betta..........


----------

