# zebra nerite snails



## nel3 (May 29, 2011)

im considering to buy zebra nerite snails to control algea and diatoms on the right side of my 5g divided tank. the diatoms/algea only gather on the right side of the tank covering the walls, main divider and the fake plants. i heard they need a mate to reproduce in brackish water. im not really into snail population explosions. would it be safe if i purchased 1 zebra nerite that doesnt seem to have any egg sacs to put on 1 side of my tank? my vt is a bit agressive buthe calmed down regarding the other DT in the 5g. not sure if thats any indication he'll go for the snail antenna.

do zebra nerite go after deadplant matter also? my tank cover is 95% covered on the top. to escape they'll have to climb under the cover to the top and cut back agian toward the tank wall/filter.


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## Tisia (Mar 15, 2011)

I think they could technically breed in freshwater, but as long as you don't stick the eggs in brackish water they shouldn't hatch. they don't have very long antennae so they'll probably be okay. they can survive without them anyways. they will eat the dead plants, and they're pretty awesome at eating up diatoms. I used to have a mystery snail that would kind of just nibble at it, and one of my nerites can clean out a 5 gallon in like a week, lol.


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## nel3 (May 29, 2011)

Tisia said:


> I think they could technically breed in freshwater, but as long as you don't stick the eggs in brackish water they shouldn't hatch. they don't have very long antennae so they'll probably be okay. they can survive without them anyways. they will eat the dead plants, and they're pretty awesome at eating up diatoms. I used to have a mystery snail that would kind of just nibble at it, and one of my nerites can clean out a 5 gallon in like a week, lol.


how easy is it to look out and manage their escape skills? how many should i get for a 5g that gets diatoms within 1-2 week of a cleaning? i know an LPS has what looks like nerites though they have taken over a tank or have been overstocked. i know one LPS has apple snails. i have a short list of snails in mind olives, horned corona and zebra . are any easier to keep? 

sorry for the question barrage, so far ive only seen pond snails and escargot in a can. anything assexual a no go for me.


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## Tisia (Mar 15, 2011)

mine don't seem to move all that quick and I've only caught one above the water a couple of times. mystery snail is a type of apple snail and like I said they aren't great at algae eating. I just have a zebra and a couple of tigers. think they and olives are pretty similar, though the guy at the LFS claimed the olives are better workers. never seen a horned in person. most snails seem to be pretty easy to take care of as long as they get enough calcium. for just one 5 gallon you probably only need 1. I've been moving mine around as they clean out tanks and so far they're cleaning faster than it's regrowing, lol


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## nel3 (May 29, 2011)

Tisia said:


> mine don't seem to move all that quick and I've only caught one above the water a couple of times. mystery snail is a type of apple snail and like I said they aren't great at algae eating. I just have a zebra and a couple of tigers. think they and olives are pretty similar, though the guy at the LFS claimed the olives are better workers. never seen a horned in person. most snails seem to be pretty easy to take care of as long as they get enough calcium. for just one 5 gallon you probably only need 1. I've been moving mine around as they clean out tanks and so far they're cleaning faster than it's regrowing, lol


thank you, i'll look around for a zebra. is 2 weeks a good QT. i do have some ornaments for them to clean. i tried vinergar to get 2mm thick algea off but no luck. i have a 1g QT, is that too small for QT? i'll get the liquid calcium, not sure about the dosing but the PH in the 5g is 7.6 most of the time. too bad i cant use a snail in the other 2 tanks (7.2,7.0 ph IAL). i wouldnt mind a horned snail though id avoid it in a divided 5g. id rather not have a snail that can break human skin in a 2.5g. it'd be different if i had the 5g undivided, the vt might be a bit agressive and get hurt. that may be over thinking about horned snails on my part but i'd stay on the safe side for now.


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## nel3 (May 29, 2011)

i got the snail. they sure can get expensive. i got the tetra algea flakes, there isnt much brand choice locally. some Wardleys mostly Nutrafin, Tetra and Hikari. i spent 4 for the snail, 9 for the algea flakes total was $14. i have yet to get calcium but i might have hit a lucky strike. some friends came back from cuba and gave me a 2x1.5 inch coral nugget. i dont think i'll crush it but there was some dust there. atm i just tossed the coral in the 1g heated qt and set the snail on it. can the presence of coral be sufficient for a calcium supply? if a liquid calcium is needed how often and how will it change the water chemistry of the 5g cycled tank? im thinking of finding some seashells and crushing them, not sure how easy it'll be but it should work in theory.

the snail shell is 3/4 inch total length. there were bigger specimens but i chose this one for size to clean the silk plants for a decent attempt to do so. i didnt want anything too small or large to bother my VT until he gets used to it.


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## Tisia (Mar 15, 2011)

I probably wouldn't be adding anything to the betta tank since it will up the hardness and bettas prefer softer water. you can supplement the snail with blanched calcium rich veggies like spinach or kale instead. you can also use egg shells and cuttlebone for calcium instead of having to buy the liquid stuff, but since those would affect the water chemistry as well I'd probably put the snail someplace else while using them. and yeah, 2 weeks should be good. I don't think that snails really get the same diseases as fish, but there is a chance of something hitching a ride on them. I was pretty naughty and just put my snails in the tank without any qt, but I got them from a pretty clean LFS so I wasn't too worried.


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## nel3 (May 29, 2011)

Tisia said:


> I probably wouldn't be adding anything to the betta tank since it will up the hardness and bettas prefer softer water. you can supplement the snail with blanched calcium rich veggies like spinach or kale instead. you can also use egg shells and cuttlebone for calcium instead of having to buy the liquid stuff, but since those would affect the water chemistry as well I'd probably put the snail someplace else while using them. and yeah, 2 weeks should be good. I don't think that snails really get the same diseases as fish, but there is a chance of something hitching a ride on them. I was pretty naughty and just put my snails in the tank without any qt, but I got them from a pretty clean LFS so I wasn't too worried.


thank you Tisia, i know such liquid supplements do cost a pretty penny. i think i have a escape artist on my hands. i found him at the top of the tank in the LPS and now just breaking the water level with his shell. i just pushed him down a bit now. should i keep the algea wafers present in his tank until he goes into the 5g? i know they love algea though i dont know if they need a costant suppply or need a fastings for a day or 2. my VT is pretty voracious, not sure if he'll go after spinach but its worth checking if he does.


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## Tisia (Mar 15, 2011)

don't think they really need fasting, never heard of a snail having problems pooping, lmao. I've never really used algae wafers, just the blanched veggies on occasion and whatever happens to be present in my tanks, but I'd probably start with about a quarter of one or so and see how long it takes it to be eaten. I wouldn't worry about having a constant supply of food, probably just once a day or so if it's finishing what you give it. once it's in the other tank I'd wait till it took care of most of the algae before giving it much else and then probably just once or twice a week since you mentioned live plants as well. I don't think my bettas really paid much attention to spinach, I know one took some bites out of zucchini a couple of times though, lol, and I've heard lot of stories of bettas carrying off algae wafers. little oinky fish


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## nel3 (May 29, 2011)

lol my vt may take a wafer for a spin, i'll just put some betta food in one corner while the algea will go somewhere behind him. *crosses fingers* the snail hasnt went above the water line to escape yet. think i'll get a second one for the other side of the 5g. the main divider probably will get some on the left side of the crafting mesh.


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## nel3 (May 29, 2011)

o zebra snails need an air pump? i did a 100wc on the 1g around noon and they havent moved fro their positions i put them back in after the wc.


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## Tisia (Mar 15, 2011)

my tanks don't have air pumps but they do have filters. never heard of them needing extra aeration though


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## Silverfang (Mar 25, 2011)

Planning on picking up a pair of those, glad to hear about your history.


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## nel3 (May 29, 2011)

Tisia said:


> my tanks don't have air pumps but they do have filters. never heard of them needing extra aeration though


thank you, i had them out of the water for about 30 seconds to take a pic of them but left them 10 minutes to adjust to the new water temp. they still have yet to move after i put them the right side down since 9pm tuesday. they were buddying up before the wc and i put tem in 2 different corners after the wc. any idea how long i should wait for them to try to move?


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