# Getting rid of algae



## VinceIII (Feb 14, 2016)

Green algae started growing in my betta's tank about a week ago. I'd appreciate your suggestions on how to safely get rid of it.

The algae started in a few patches on the gravel first, then started accumulating on the glass and plants. I'd say it's light-moderate, but it's enough to be an eyesore. My betta doesn't seem affected by it.

The tank isn't near a window, but the evening sun might be reflecting off of a mirror by the window and into the aquarium. I've started keeping the curtains closed in the evening and not using the aquarium light, and it seems to have slowed down the growth.

Thanks!


----------



## RussellTheShihTzu (Mar 19, 2013)

I used Seachem Excel. If you have Crypts, Marimo or Crypts use a .25 dose and work up. Or, you can use peroxide and directly apply. There are a bunch of tutorials on the Internet. The other option is a Nerite Snail; which kind depends on tank size.


----------



## kitkat67 (Mar 10, 2015)

Step one, remove fish. Step two, toss entire tank out window. Congratulations, you have gotten rid of your algae!

Lol, I have learned to accept my algae. It takes waste out of the water and provides food for the microorganisms that my fry eat. Circle of life and all that. You could try light-shocking it by keeping it in a dark place for a few days, but that might kill other plants (except anubias, java fern, java moss).


----------



## NickAu (Sep 28, 2015)

Whats your tank maintenance like 

Maintenance:
How often did you perform a water change?
What percentage of water did you change?
Do you vacuum the substrate or just dip out water?
What additives do you use?

Water Parameters:
What are your water parameters? Please give exact numbers. If tested by pet store please get exact numbers. "Fine" or "Safe" won't help us help you.
Ammonia:
Nitrite:
Nitrate:
pH:
Hardness (GH):
Alkalinity (KH):

There is a reason why this is happening, It could be bad maintenance, too much too little light, over feeding, Filtration issue or a combination of some or all the items listed.

Once we establish the reason we can work out how to fix it. There is no quick fix for this.


----------



## dengveevi (Aug 30, 2015)

If you have a large enough tank, my otos cleaned off all the algae in my tank. Now I'm purposely growing algae just to feed them.


----------



## Witchipoo (Dec 13, 2015)

One adult nerite snail. Problem solved.


----------



## VinceIII (Feb 14, 2016)

I'm sorry, I drifted away from the forum and saw your post just now.

The algae got better after a few days with the light off and then a partial water change, but it isn't completely gone. It seems like any duration of light over 5 hours gets it growing again.



NickAu said:


> Whats your tank maintenance like
> 
> Maintenance:
> How often did you perform a water change? every 2 weeks
> ...


Also, my filter is a Deep Blue Bio-Maxx Nano HOB.

I've been taking out the plants during water changes to clean them, but securing them in the gravel again has gotten to be a hassle. Anubias roots aren't very pliable. I thought about transitioning to silk plants, but I assume I'd just be trading one set of inconveniences for another.


----------



## RussellTheShihTzu (Mar 19, 2013)

What is the light? What plants? What size tank?


----------



## VinceIII (Feb 14, 2016)

RussellTheShihTzu said:


> What is the light? What plants? What size tank?


- standard 5.5 gallon tank
- Aqueon full-spectrum T8 8000K
- 1 large anubias, 3 medium anubias, 1 anubias petite, 2 java ferns

I'm pretty sure the algae started because I left the light on for about 10 hours for a few days. I also feel like the light is a little too bright for my aquarium. I'm going to order a Stingray. In the meantime, I still need to take care of the algae.


----------



## RussellTheShihTzu (Mar 19, 2013)

You need more fast-growing stem plants to out-compete the algae for food. Anubias tanks are notorious for being algae machines because of the slow Anubias growth. Once you get the Stingray you should see the algae drop off. I have them on all of my tanks. With the exception of a 5.5 near natural light I haven't had any algae problems. Lights are all on timers set for eight hours. I use the 16" on my 5.5s but a 12" will also work. You might find them for less here. $5.00 shipping the last time I bought.

Stingray


----------



## NickAu (Sep 28, 2015)

> How often did you perform a water change? every 2 weeks





> Ammonia: 0, starts going up to about .15 a couple of days before the water change


This could be a problem, You will need to step up water changes, Are you overfeeding the fish?
D


> You need more fast-growing stem plants to out-compete the algae for food.


+1
Floating plants like Water Sprite Duckweed Riccia Water lettuce will soak up nutrients.



> I've been taking out the plants during water changes to clean them, but securing them in the gravel again has gotten to be a hassle. Anubias roots aren't very pliable.


Tie or super glue your Anubias to small rocks, If you are using superglue the gel stuff is better.
Also there is no need to remove the plants at water change time, 



> I'm pretty sure the algae started because I left the light on for about 10 hours for a few days.


I run my lights for 12 hours they are on a timer, I have no problem with algae.


----------



## VinceIII (Feb 14, 2016)

RussellTheShihTzu said:


> You need more fast-growing stem plants to out-compete the algae for food. Anubias tanks are notorious for being algae machines because of the slow Anubias growth.


I didn't know that. I wouldn't want any more anubias than I already have, so I'll look at other options.



> Once you get the Stingray you should see the algae drop off ... a 12" will also work. You might find them for less here. $5.00 shipping the last time I bought.
> 
> Stingray


Thanks for the link. I'll order a 12" today.




NickAu said:


> This could be a problem, You will need to step up water changes, Are you overfeeding the fish?


I went with a two-week interval after speaking with somebody on Tetra's help line. I was on a one-week interval with my old Whisper 3i, but ammonia stays at 0 for about 12 days with my Bio-Maxx Nano (on almost the lowest flow setting). Do you think the ammonia should stay at 0 for a longer period of time?

I don't overfeed my fish. I give him one pellet twice a day, and he eats them right away. The pellets are NLS All-Purpose with 37% protein, so I doubt he's being overloaded and eliminating more than usual. 



> Floating plants like Water Sprite Duckweed Riccia Water lettuce will soak up nutrients.


I read about floating plants, but didn't follow up (probably because I never had them in my previous community tanks and wasn't sure how to include them in an aquascape). I've also been thinking about replacing the three medium anubias with something lusher. I might replace the java fern with something like dwarf hair grass. So I'd be left with the one large anubias and the petite that accents it. As I write this, I imagine the possibilities for a much better aquascape.



> Also there is no need to remove the plants at water change time.


I've been removing them to clean off the accumulated algae. I takes more than a basic wipe, so there's no way I could clean them while they're in the tank.

I think I will attach the anubias to a rock. The one thing about silk plants that appeals to me is the weighted base that makes it easy to move the plants. 



> I run my lights for 12 hours they are on a timer, I have no problem with algae.


I expect I'll be able to runt the little Stingray much longer than the bright T8. I'll experiment with it to find the right lighting interval for my tank.


----------



## VinceIII (Feb 14, 2016)

I did a partial water change today and, as has been the case for the past couple of water changes, needed to clean off the plants. The large anubias was the worst, with a coating of blackish algae on the top couple of leaves. I was able to wipe it off with a paint brush, and it looks new again.

I bought a tube of temple compacta yesterday and planted it today. The three reddish stems and the hint of red in the leaves adds a nice touch. Hopefully it'll help with the algae. I didn't see any floating plants, but will keep looking.

While I was getting ready to replant the anubias, I realized that I probably just needed more gravel. I added about 2 lbs, and it made planting the anubias much easier. I'll leave the anubias as is, but I do want to attach the java fern to a rock or driftwood.


----------



## VinceIII (Feb 14, 2016)

I got the Finnex Stingray and am running it for the first time today. The brightness and hue are exactly what I wanted. There's even a bit of shimmer on the plants. I'm glad I went with the 12-inch, because it leaves slightly dimmer areas on the sides so my betta has variation in lighting. l much prefer this light to the T8. I'll post again in a couple of weeks about the algae.


----------

