# Tank Question



## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Is it ok to use a clear divider on a betta tank or would the two bettas see each other and kill themselves from flaring excessively? :thankyou:


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## regalesse (Jun 5, 2011)

i do not know abot the clear but i keep ten betta in thrirty gallons with the craft mesh and they are all oky. they don't have the flaring problems.


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

It's totally fine. They won't suicide by flaring- though they might get stressed. My two boys share a tank and are fine.


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## kumi (Apr 23, 2011)

What tank do you have? The reason that I ask is that there are some tanks sold with dividers where the the dividers don't seem to work very well. The fish can get under them or dislodge them. 

A lot of the people here suggest putting plants against a clear divider to break up the line of sight. Less stressful for the bettas. 

Kumi


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## Littlebittyfish (Jan 5, 2011)

I would keep an eye on them...If it stresses them out it could lower their immune systems...also, they can overflare are rip their fin. I had 2 of my guys do that once. I like to use the craftmesh because it isn't as see-through.
Make sure they have hidey spots so they can get away from the view of the other betta..and make sure there's plants.


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

I have a 5 gallon Bow front type tank. that gives 2.5 gal for each fish. Usually the tanks that have the dividers are 1 gal or less, so stay clear of those. I recommend anything above a 5 gallon for dividing. 
You can buy dividers at petsmart/petco (but they're expensive O_O). I made my own from cross-stitching canvas. Here's a link on how to make dividers: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=40025&highlight=make+tank+dividers


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> I have a 5 gallon Bow front type tank. that gives 2.5 gal for each fish. Usually the tanks that have the dividers are 1 gal or less, so stay clear of those. I recommend anything above a 5 gallon for dividing.
> You can buy dividers at petsmart/petco (but they're expensive O_O). I made my own from cross-stitching canvas. Here's a link on how to make dividers: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=40025&highlight=make+tank+dividers


ok so if i have a 10 gallon tank with 2 bettas how often do i have to clean it and what do i have to clean?
:thankyou:


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

A 10 gal tank (with a filter) would need 20%-25% weekly with gravel vacuuming. Without a filter would need two 25% changes weekly with gravel vac. 

Usually the bigger you go, the less water changes you have to do. That's why I like divided tanks over 2.5 gal tanks.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> A 10 gal tank (with a filter) would need 20%-25% weekly with gravel vacuuming. Without a filter would need two 25% changes weekly with gravel vac.
> 
> Usually the bigger you go, the less water changes you have to do. That's why I like divided tanks over 2.5 gal tanks.


Really..... I heard 25% a month with gravel vacuuming......so how often in necessary. Also what do i do when i clean it, just clean the gravel with vac. and scrub walls. Ive never had a big tank so I dont really know what to do lol


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

Just clean it like any other tank, lol. 
You could maybe get away with 75-80% a month, but def. not 25%. IMO, it's easier to do small weekly changes rather than huge monthly changes- but it's up to you.
You don't necessarily need to scrub down the walls...just get a couple of snails and they should get ride of all the algae on the sides of the tank. 
Gravel vac. the bottom so that none of that poo sits there for too long.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Ok, cool and how often must i change the activated carbon in the filter if i use one (not sure yet)


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

The packages say change them monthly, but you can actually just rinse them off and keep using them until they fall apart.


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Hi jman88 - I have two divided 10 gals: one houses my two females and the other houses my two males. Orignally I had a male and female side-by-side, but that was a nightmare (complete rookie move!). My Double-Tail wiggled himself crazy and the female just taunted him. As soon as I moved him next to my Crowntail male, he completely mellowed out. I use the Penplex mesh dividers. Seems to work well. However, every betta is different. My guys rarely flare at each other, but your guys could stress each other out. Just keep an eye on them. Also, based on your desire to do less frequent water changes, you'll need to "cycle" your 10 gal. You'll want to learn all about cycling, if you're new to bigger tanks. Especially if you choose the fish-in cycle. You can accidently kill your fish if you don't learn about proper water changes during the cycling process.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

flowerslegacy said:


> Hi jman88 - I have two divided 10 gals: one houses my two females and the other houses my two males. Orignally I had a male and female side-by-side, but that was a nightmare (complete rookie move!). My Double-Tail wiggled himself crazy and the female just taunted him. As soon as I moved him next to my Crowntail male, he completely mellowed out. I use the Penplex mesh dividers. Seems to work well. However, every betta is different. My guys rarely flare at each other, but your guys could stress each other out. Just keep an eye on them. Also, based on your desire to do less frequent water changes, you'll need to "cycle" your 10 gal. You'll want to learn all about cycling, if you're new to bigger tanks. Especially if you choose the fish-in cycle. You can accidently kill your fish if you don't learn about proper water changes during the cycling process.


I'd much rather change 25% weekly than worry about cycling.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> The packages say change them monthly, but you can actually just rinse them off and keep using them until they fall apart.


And that's ok? They lose effect after the month or anything? is that what you do?


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

I'd say change it every 2-3 months...


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> I'd say change it every 2-3 months...


That's what you do? And it's ok?


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

Yes. That's what I do. And it's fine. Just be sure to rinse it every week or so.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Ok....and also, apparently there are supposed to be 3 media parts in my filter but all i got when I bought it was carbon.....is it ok to only use carbon?


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

No, the carbon _needs_ to be in a media bag. You can buy these at any petstore for really cheap. 
Most filters have pre-made bags with sponges and such that are $5-10. Check which brand you have for that though, and what size fits it.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> No, the carbon _needs_ to be in a media bag. You can buy these at any petstore for really cheap.
> Most filters have pre-made bags with sponges and such that are $5-10. Check which brand you have for that though, and what size fits it.


No...not that.....haha the carbon IS in a media bag lol.....but i just dont have like the sponge and the other part is just carbon ok?
PS. If i'm doing my 25% water change do I add the conditioner for just the 25% or do I add as much as if i'm changing the whole tank (full dose)


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

Oh..derp. lol. I thought you meant just like...the carbon! xDDD People do buy that and make their own filter bags! xD 

Yeah that's really all you need. (Well, it's all I use) My filter also has a bio-wheel input thing, but I don't use it. ><; 

Yeah, when ever you do a partial water change, just add the de-chlor. to the water that you add- no need to treat the whole tank.  Unless you're doing a 100%, you don't need to do a full dosage.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> Oh..derp. lol. I thought you meant just like...the carbon! xDDD People do buy that and make their own filter bags! xD
> 
> Yeah that's really all you need. (Well, it's all I use) My filter also has a bio-wheel input thing, but I don't use it. ><;
> 
> Yeah, when ever you do a partial water change, just add the de-chlor. to the water that you add- no need to treat the whole tank.  Unless you're doing a 100%, you don't need to do a full dosage.


Ok . Now this is probobly a REALLY stupid question! But i'm going to ask it anyway. I'm new to big aquariums so do I have to cycle it or is there a way to avoid it or can I just do water changes only and not test water? If I have to I am going to do fish in cycle. LOL I have no clue :BIGtongue: :thankyou:!


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

I think that not asking a question is stupid- No such thing as stupid questions!!!  LOL. 

Usually with anything 10 gal. or bigger, it's wise to cycle the tank- it makes it much easier on you in the long run. 
Just let the tank run on it's own for 3-4 weeks. You can also do fish-in cycling (which is what I do). Just add your fish to the new tank and it should cycle on it's own. But after it's done cycling, you don't want to do any major water changes- as it will kill off all the good bacteria in the tank. Just make sure that your ammonia doesn't get too high.(so get an ammonia test kit)


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> I think that not asking a question is stupid- No such thing as stupid questions!!!  LOL.
> 
> Usually with anything 10 gal. or bigger, it's wise to cycle the tank- it makes it much easier on you in the long run.
> Just let the tank run on it's own for 3-4 weeks. You can also do fish-in cycling (which is what I do). Just add your fish to the new tank and it should cycle on it's own. But after it's done cycling, you don't want to do any major water changes- as it will kill off all the good bacteria in the tank. Just make sure that your ammonia doesn't get too high.(so get an ammonia test kit)


Ok. I have that! lol
PS. Do I not do any water changes for 3-4 weeks then? Or do I still change 25% weekly?


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Hi jman828 - As @youlovegnats stated, it is wise to cycle a 10gal. Even with 25% weekly water changes, your tank will begin cycling. Also, as @youlovegnats stated, cycling takes a few weeks. However, as the tank is cycling its crucial that you check the water parameters *every* day. Ammonia and nitrites must be at 0 or they're lethal for your fish. Ammonia at .50ppm can cause permenant gill damage and nitrites start robbing the blood of oxygen at any level over 0. Get yourself a Freshwater Test Kit. Preferably a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia and nitrites. A popular brand is Prime by Seachem. Set up your tank, add your water with the water conditioner and put your fish in. (Please Note: if you have ammonia or nitrites in your tap water, the Test Kit will immediately show parameters. But don't worry. Prime converts it to a non-toxic state but it still remains in the water to allow a cycle.) Every 24 hours check your parameters. If you don't have ammonia in your tap, once ammonia does begin to appear, start doing 50% water changes. Prime will detoxify the ammonia and nitrites for 24 to 48 hours. Personally I'm too scared to wait 48 hours so I do 50% water changes daily. The ammonia will remain for a couple of weeks so you'll be a water changing master by the time your tank cycles! The ammonia level will daily increase and will peak, probably at .50ppm and then you'll see it start to drop. It will rest at 0 and then the nitrites will appear. Keep up the water changes with the Prime! The nitrites will start climbing and peak at about .50ppm too, then they'll start dropping. Within a few days the nitrites will rest at 0 and your tank will be cycled. The only way you can keep your 10gal from cycling is to do large water changes a couple times a week - it's a HUGE drag. I tried it for a while and quickly decided to cycle. As @youlovegnats stated too, don't do a 100% water change and don't vaccuum your rocks or clean your decorations as the tank is cycling. The beneficial bacteria is trying to establish itself on those items so you don't want to wash them away. Once your ammonia and nitrites are at 0, do one final 50% change with Prime and then leave it for at least a week. With just one betta in a 10 gal you can probably get away with a 25% water change a week, but personally I do 50% a week. I have two big male bettas in a divided 10gal so their bioload is pretty big. Continue with the filter changes as directed by @youlovegnats. I have live planted betta tanks so I don't use carbon. But I do have a 3-stage filter in my unplanted 25 gal. I really like it. Hope this helps!


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

@flowerslegacy so don't vacuum rocks or ornaments? Just remove water then?
PS. I always put a *small* amount of salt in for a preventatvie I know there's no need but I like to. The filter won't filter it out right?


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Correct, don't vacuum or clean anything. Just take out the water. You won't vacuum until a couple of weeks after the tank is cycled. Also, any longterm salt use will damage internal organs. There is no proof of salt being a safe preventative measure. I lost a gobie to longterm salt use in my 25gal and learned the hard way. Many experienced aquarist advise against it. The best preventative for any fish is simply clean water.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

flowerslegacy said:


> Correct, don't vacuum or clean anything. Just take out the water. You won't vacuum until a couple of weeks after the tank is cycled. Also, any longterm salt use will damage internal organs. There is no proof of salt being a safe preventative measure. I lost a gobie to longterm salt use in my 25gal and learned the hard way. Many experienced aquarist advise against it. The best preventative for any fish is simply clean water.


I just add 1/2 tsp/gal but will the filter take it out?


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

The filter will not take it out nor will evaporation take it out. Only water changes remove salt. Even 1/2 tsp is still adding a chemical that is not native to their natural habitat. Hope we can convince you . . .


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

flowerslegacy said:


> The filter will not take it out nor will evaporation take it out. Only water changes remove salt. Even 1/2 tsp is still adding a chemical that is not native to their natural habitat. Hope we can convince you . . .


Maybe I'll stop using it.....I'm just afraid of them getting finrot that's why I use it......Also, when I cycle and the ammonia and nitrites go above .5ppm (which is unsafe according to post by mod on here) how to I reduce it, do I use conditioner or change 25% of water? Thanks for all your help flowerslegacy!


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

You're very welcome. I've become a cycling maniac in my own home so I like to share the information and help others avoid the heartache I've lived through. Don't worry about finrot and stuff. All of those diseases are caused by poor water quality ie. bacterial infection. Keep the water clean and your fish will be happy, happy.  In regards to removing the nitrites and ammonia, the same applies for any polluted water - water changes. Never be scared of water changes. The beneficial bacteria lives *on* the items in our tanks, not in the water. Removing polluted water is only beneficial for the fish's habitat. Remember, any indication of nitrites can cause internal organ issues so if you're getting any form of reading do a water change.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

flowerslegacy said:


> Don't worry about finrot and stuff. All of those diseases are caused by poor water quality ie. bacterial infection. Keep the water clean and your fish will be happy, happy.  To remove it, you have to do water changes. The water conditions only remove harmful minerals, chlorine, chloramine, etc. So do a 25% water change daily (always using your conditioner) for 4 days and then the water will be salt free.


I'm not talking about the salt lol.....I'm talking about the ammonia and nitrites when I start cycling .


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

I caught that! Sorry. I edited and re-posted


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

flowerslegacy said:


> You're very welcome. I've become a cycling maniac in my own home so I like to share the information and help others avoid the heartache I've lived through. Don't worry about finrot and stuff. All of those diseases are caused by poor water quality ie. bacterial infection. Keep the water clean and your fish will be happy, happy.  In regards to removing the nitrites and ammonia, the same applies for any polluted water - water changes. Never be scared of water changes. The beneficial bacteria lives *on* the items in our tanks, not in the water. Removing polluted water is only beneficial for the fish's habitat. Remember, any indication of nitrites can cause internal organ issues so if you're getting any form of reading do a water change.


Ok, much better . When I get a reading do I change 25% of the water? Or all?


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

During cycling or after it's cycled, never replace all of the water. During the cycling process you'll be doing 50% daily, after the cycle 25% weekly. However, if you're seeing a reading by doing 25% weekly then you'll need to increase the percentage of water your changing each week. That's why I do 50% weekly. My boys are poopers.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

flowerslegacy said:


> During cycling or after it's cycled, never replace all of the water. During the cycling process you'll be doing 50% daily, after the cycle 25% weekly. However, if you're seeing a reading by doing 25% weekly then you'll need to increase the percentage of water your changing each week. That's why I do 50% weekly. My boys are poopers.


50% Daily, Got It!


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Also I have a 100W heater in my 10 gal is that too much power?


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

Well, that's 2x's the wattage that you need.... Try going for a 50W heater. 100W *might* fry your fish...unless you keep it on low.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> Well, that's 2x's the wattage that you need.... Try going for a 50W heater. 100W *might* fry your fish...unless you keep it on low.


Yah, It's on low  so will it be OK? :-?
PS. JUST got home with my new crowntail!!  I'm going to acclimate him and then he's going in the tank! :lol:
Also....I forgot to find out when I bought it but I don't know if it's male or female....I *believe* it's male. If it happens to be a female and I have a divided tank with a male on one side would that be bad or would she lay eggs or something? In other words, if it turns out to be female (I dont *think* it is) would it be bad to be in a divided tank with a male?


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Here he is! :-D (He's a bit darker than this but the flash makes him look brighter)


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## Treena (Aug 18, 2011)

He is a beauty! I love the colouring on his tail, looks like a lovely Betta.


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

What a beautiful boy! Yes, he's definitely male. In regards to a divided tank, the jury is out on what is best to house together. I started with a male and female, but my male couldn't handle it. So I put my two males together and all is fine. However, some say that putting a male and female in a divided tank is less stressful than two males. It may just depend on the individual fish you buy and what works individually. On a different thread we're discussing this very issue. I listed under "Betta Fish Bowls Habitats & Accessories" titled "Male and Female in a Divded Tank". You can pop over there and watch how it unfolds. Congratulations! Let us know what you name him.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Treena said:


> He is a beauty! I love the colouring on his tail, looks like a lovely Betta.


Thanks!


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Ok, no name yet but here are my ideas so far (Blue CT)
-Prince
-Prince Bubbles
-Ocean
-Royal
-Deep
-Ol' Blue
-And lol no original at all.... blue
which one do you guys like best? Hope to have a name tomorrow or next day


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Here's my contribution. I love naming our little friends so I'll take you down the tunnel of the name I choose: jman828, you've been diligently working on learning about cycling and how to create the perfect home environment for your new friend. Lots of questions, research, etc. even before you purchased him. I'm sure you'll be dreaming about cycling when you sleep tonight. So . . . cycling . . . makes me think of bicycles . . . makes me think of the Tour de France . . .who's the hero of the Tour? Lance Amstrong. I choose Lance.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

flowerslegacy said:


> Here's my contribution. I love naming our little friends so I'll take you down the tunnel of the name I choose: jman828, you've been diligently working on learning about cycling and how to create the perfect home environment for your new friend. Lots of questions, research, etc. even before you purchased him. I'm sure you'll be dreaming about cycling when you sleep tonight. So . . . cycling . . . makes me think of bicycles . . . makes me think of the Tour de France . . .who's the hero of the Tour? Lance Amstrong. I choose Lance.


I like the logic behind that! I will add it to the list of possibilities. 

PS. Set heater to 71 and it's maintaining a solid 80!


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

My ammonia reading this morning was about 0.6 *mg/L*.........so I don't know how many *PPM* this is, what is the conversion? Do i need to change water or is this a low amount? Please answer ASAP because I don't know if this is hurting him at this level....


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

Do a 50% change on the water. I believe that mg/L (miligrams per liter) and PPM (part per million) are the same...unless someone will correct me? lol


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> Do a 50% change on the water. I believe that mg/L (miligrams per liter) and PPM (part per million) are the same...unless someone will correct me? lol


See, that's what I heard to..... But the book that comes with the ammonia test said it's ok to 1.2 mg/L but I don't trust it so should I do the water change just in case? It just seems wierd 1 betta could create so much ammonia in one day.


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

Hmmm... Well I'm not sure exactly on the mg/L to PPM, So I'd still do a water change...perhaps just a 25%?


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> Hmmm... Well I'm not sure exactly on the mg/L to PPM, So I'd still do a water change...perhaps just a 25%?


Because I heard exactly what you heard, it's the same......so I'll just do a 25% and test again to see what happens ;-)


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

PS. flowerslegacy......Since you've helped me *SO* much, I've decided to give you something in return as you as you are clearly very knowledgeable.....I've stopped adding salt to my aquarium unless it's for treatment! I'm not adding anymore and the salt that is is there will go away with water changes. My thank you to you!


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

The mg to ppm was a new question for me! I googled it and @youlovegnats is correct. For the aquatic world, they're the same. So if you got a .6 mg reading, that would mean a .60ppm reading which is high. So I'd say the initial 50% water change was the correct direction. If you haven't done so already, do a water test on your tap before adding conditioner. Perhaps your tap water already contains ammonia. My tap water has .50ppm ammonia, that's why I'm a big Prime advocate. If you have ammonia in your tap and you're not detoxifying it, no amount of water changes will help. Remember, the detoxifyers do not 'remove' it - they just detoxify it. So you'll still receive a reading on your test kit, it just won't be lethal to your fish. Congrats on removing the salt! Great move!


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

flowerslegacy said:


> The mg to ppm was a new question for me! I googled it and @youlovegnats is correct. For the aquatic world, they're the same. So if you got a .6 mg reading, that would mean a .60ppm reading which is high. So I'd say the initial 50% water change was the correct direction. If you haven't done so already, do a water test on your tap before adding conditioner. Perhaps your tap water already contains ammonia. My tap water has .50ppm ammonia, that's why I'm a big Prime advocate. If you have ammonia in your tap and you're not detoxifying it, no amount of water changes will help. Remember, the detoxifyers do not 'remove' it - they just detoxify it. So you'll still receive a reading on your test kit, it just won't be lethal to your fish. Congrats on removing the salt! Great move!


I did that, there is no ammonia in my tap water. In fact, my tap water has no chlorine,chloramine,salt,minerals,ammonia,coliform or any other additives (I viewed it on my city's webpage and the local health authorities report).


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Nice!! I'm jealous! I wish I had your water report! Looks like your guy has a big bioload like mine. Perhaps Crowntails are just great poopers. Welcome to the world of water changes!


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

flowerslegacy said:


> Nice!! I'm jealous! I wish I had your water report! Looks like your guy has a big bioload like mine. Perhaps Crowntails are just great poopers. Welcome to the world of water changes!


I guess so! Good to know mine's not the only one


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

No ammonia today  so does that mean I have to do no water change? No nitrite either so the cycle hasn't progressed...just no ammonia....so leave it for 24 hours and test again?


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

Yup! as long as you get normal ammonia readings, you should be ok to go a day without a change.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Perfect..... I'll check again tomorrow


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Im soooo jealous!! I've been changing 50% daily for the last 2 weeks. Lucky Duck!


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

He has been named! flowerslegacy, although I love how you came up with the name Lance, I just don't like how it sounds so I couldn't use it. But bonus points to you for coming up with it! . His name is Ace. :lol:

PS. I was updated from new ---> junior member.....how does this happen?


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Ace is a GREAT name. We all have to name our fishy friends for the personality they bring forward. It took me over 5 days to name my female Halfmoon Plakat! I could be wrong, but I think our membership status is updated simply by how many times we post. But anyone can feel free to correct me!


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

flowerslegacy said:


> Ace is a GREAT name. We all have to name our fishy friends for the personality they bring forward. It took me over 5 days to name my female Halfmoon Plakat! I could be wrong, but I think our membership status is updated simply by how many times we post. But anyone can feel free to correct me!


That does seem quite possible but you have 240 posts and your only junior member also....but we get no messages or anything stating we've been upgraded so that makes it seem like it's an automatic thing based on posts


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

If I remember correctly, I was upgraded to "junior" when I hit 100 too. I didn't receive an email or anything either. If my membership changes when I hit 300, I'll let you know!


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Sounds good


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Also, today there's no ammonia and no nitrites in my tank again....

EDIT: If I put the vial in the light I can see just a *tiny hint* of color in both ammonia and nitrite but if I try to match the color against the color on the book and I lay it against that book to check it appears perfectly clear. So I suppose i'll have to do a 50% water change.... 0.1 ppm nitrite and about 0.3 ppm ammonia


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

You could do just a 25-40% change instead. .3ppm isn't a whole lot.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> You could do just a 25-40% change instead. .3ppm isn't a whole lot.


I'll stick with 50 to be safe.....but hey at least I'm showing a few nitrites now so I'm progressing!  *WAIT!!!* It's been 3 days and I just finished testing for nitrate and I have a reading for ammonia,nitrite,and nitrate after 3 days... Is that normal?


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

Yeah it's normal  Don't worry 
I'm glad you're taking it safe too ) *applauds*


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Yah, it's only about 3ppm nitrate and phew *wipes sweat* thought it was bad to have all 3 readings! lol.
*Runs off to go change water *​


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

LOL. Nooo you *want* 3 types of readings! ^__^ That means it's cycling.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Ok good lol......just finished the 50% water change and all is good


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Yea! Bravo! You're starting to see a cycle! Just as @youlovegnats stated, with such a trace amount a 25% would be okay. Don't stress too much if you have to work that hard to even see the readings  I like the *applaudes* from @youlovegnats - you *are* doing a great job so far. Just as OFL stated in your other thread, all cycles can differ a little based on individual set ups ie. bioload, tap water parameters, plants, etc. I have ammonia *and* nitrites when my tanks cycle because of my horrible tap water. Once the nitrifying bacteria show up, they all disappear at the same time. So just as @youlovegnats already stated, all 3 readings are exactly what you want.


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

WooHoo!!! lol :lol: So just guess here, at the rate this is going what is your guess on when my tank'll be cycled just a guess....


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

Mmmm I'd say at least another week. It really all just depends on what size the tank is and how you handle the water changes.  


@flowers- awww you make me blush! >///< *hugs*


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

youlovegnats said:


> Mmmm I'd say at least another week. It really all just depends on what size the tank is and how you handle the water changes.
> 
> 
> @flowers- awww you make me blush! >///< *hugs*


Your kidding? It can be that fast!? It's only been 3 days so far so that would make it a total of 10 days if it was that fast! Wow!


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Okay, I'll guess. I'd say that based on your clean tap water and your initial small readings, I'll give it four weeks. (fingers crossed!!). Until your readings start to increase, it's hard to say though. Aquatic history says an average of 4 to 6 weeks up to 8. However, you only have one little betta in a 10gal. I had one goldfish in my first 10gal and it took 6 weeks - ugh!! But goldfish have HUGE bioloads ie. they poop like crazy. That tank needed tons of nitrifying bacteria! It was my first cycle and I don't know how my little friend survived it. OFL stated that bettas don't have a huge bioload. That's good. That means the cycle may be on the shorter side. (again, fingers crossed).


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

Oh WOOPS. I was thinking it was a 5 gal. ><' YUP. Def about another 4-6 weeks. *feels stoopid*


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

I HOPE IT IS 10 DAYS!!!! I've never cycled a 10 gal with only one betta. That would be AWESOME! I've been living with the divided 2 betta set ups and they just seem like they never end. But then again, if I'd stop buying new bettas I wouldn't always be cycling.  Oh yeah, I'm buying two more in November so I have to set up another 10 gal - more plants, more decorations, more betta logs, more baffling . . . I can't control myself!


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Ahhhhh, Dang it!!! Sorry jman - I was rootin' for 10 days!!!


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

Hahaha! I'm sorry for confusing you guys!!! I forgot it was a 10g.! >_<'


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

It's all good lol


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## Neil D (Apr 10, 2011)

I don't know if this has been posted, 

but I have a divided 10G, and it used to have a clear divider, but Josh started tail biting, from the stress of seeing each other. I would get 2 black plastic mesh dividers from a craft store and put both of them in the divider thing. That should break up the line of site. Mine does. They both don't seem to know there's another betta in the tank.


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

@NeilD that's awesome. I would love to use black dividers. I planted a bunch of plants along my dividers, but that didn't work worth a hoot. I'm completely craft inept, so what dept. in the craft store would have the plastic mesh sheets? Do you know what they're called? Just thinking of the inside of a craft store makes me confused . . .


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## youlovegnats (Feb 23, 2011)

They're called plastic canvas... they should be in the sewing area where there is embroidery floss.


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Great! Thank you @youlovegnats!


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## jman828 (Aug 15, 2011)

Haha I thought this was too funny, he got spooked by me and went and hid in a hole of his bridge ornament (still in plain view but he thought he was safe  ) lol.


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## flowerslegacy (May 10, 2011)

Betta's are awesome little fish. Their personalities are great. Cassius likes to hide in his Betta Log, although he's been blowing a bubble nest under the Katappa leaf I put in a few days ago. I swear he stares at it to assess his work. Winston likes to lay on top of the floating wisteria plant. The first time I saw him basking on top of those leaves I thought he was dead!! Both of my females are pretty active and not much into hiding. Ruby thinks she's a jumping great white shark from South Africa and jumps at me every time I walk by. Someone should tell her she's only 1" long.


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## Neil D (Apr 10, 2011)

It would be in the sewing area. Its black plastic Canvas and/or mesh. It works great, and you can take the extra clippings from trimming it to size and put it between the two sheets, to break up the view even more!


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