# My First Cycling, Help Thread



## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

First question.

I do have bottled, filtered water from the grocery store. Is okay to use that water or will it make no difference for cycling?


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

CoolishPrune3 said:


> First question.
> 
> I do have bottled, filtered water from the grocery store. Is okay to use that water or will it make no difference for cycling?


That's not the water you want to use it is RO with no minerals in it. You most 
likely will never get the tank cycled using RO water this being your first attempt at cycling an aquarium.


Rick


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Since it is a new aquarium. Do I have to let it sit for 24 hours or can I start my cycle right away.


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

Fish in or fishless cycle?

R


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Fishless


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

If your fishless you can start now.

R


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## Blue Fish (Jun 11, 2012)

Is there a reason you're not using well water or tap water?


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Ammonia is in. I tested and we are still in the light green(4.0 ppm). Do I add my conditioner or anything like that?


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

Is it well water or city water? 
If it is city water add Prime to remove choririne. If it is well water just let it go.


R


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

I didn't get my Prime in the male yet. Should I just add my BettaSafe?


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

Yes
R


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Do you need a heater when cycling? I know it adds to the surface area for good BBs or whatever there called. But, I just realized, i am down a heater now. Is it okay to just leave my Betta in a 1 gal with out a heater?


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

Leave the heater with the Betta as long as the cycleing aquarium stays reasonably warm it won't stop the showk.

Rick


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

The heater is in the cycling tank, note that this tank contains high amounts of ammonia. Is it okay to just rinse thoroughly and put it bank in the tank. My greatest concern.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Just rinse it and put it with your fish. He has priority. Up to 84*, the warmer you can keep the cycling tank, the faster the bacteria will grow. Also, run your filter on high and keep the tank dark. Make sure that the filter *is* causing ripples or splashing.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Hallyx said:


> Just rinse it and put it with your fish. He has priority. Up to 84*, the warmer you can keep the cycling tank, the faster the bacteria will grow. Also, run your filter on high and keep the tank dark. Make sure that the filter *is* causing ripples or splashing.


I havn't used the heater in the 1 gal for a couple days now. I am having problems with a sick fish and I am thinking about using my adjustable heater to warm him up a bit. Since I only have 2 heaters and 1 is adjustable the sick fish will get the adjustable thermostat heater. Uhm... so that brings me to wonder if I would be alright with the 1 gal with no heater and keeping a heater and the cycling tank. I did leave the baffle off for max flow


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Wherever your fish is, that's where the good heater goes. You can use the other heater to help the cycle. Temp is not critical.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Hallyx said:


> Wherever your fish is, that's where the good heater goes. You can use the other heater to help the cycle. Temp is not critical.


Sorry, Im still confused. I have two fish lol. I ordered another heater and another thermometer to remove this scenario


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

I am having trouble deciphering the color matching.

Obviously Nitrite reads as 0 ppm. However, I can't tell if the Ammonia is reading 1.0 ppm or 4.0 ppm. Which makes all the difference in the world.

These pictures were taken within seconds of each other at the 5 minute mark.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Okay I feel stupid. When its up on my computer I can see it a little better. I know its not 1.0 ppm ammonia. But now I am wondering if its 2.0 ppm or 4.0 ppm.


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

Some where in the 2 to 4 ppm range. You have to keep in mind API are not super accurate in the higher range.When ammonia gets above 2 ppm it becomes a guessing game.I'm not that well versed in the API test as they are not what I use.

Rick


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

It doesn't matter whether it's 1.0ppm or 4.0ppm. Anything over 0.25ppm, the palest green, is too high for his health. Change water to achieve <0.25ppm. Use Prime.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

lol @ Hallyx

Im trying to cycle my tank. I want high ammonia. lol


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## Blue Fish (Jun 11, 2012)

Wait, are you doing a fish-in cycle, or are you cycling with some other source of ammonia? 

If you are doing fish-in, then Hallyx is correct, anything about 0.25 in either ammonia or nitrITE is going to hurt your fish, and if it goes too high could possibly kill him. Getting the numbers down to 0.25 or below (but not at 0) will still allow your tank to cycle, but will keep the fish safe as well. It's a balance between providing enough "food" for the BB's and keeping your fish from getting ammonia or nitrite poisoning in the process. 

If you are doing fishless cycling, then yes, your ammonia can be higher. But, you also don't want it to be too high, because that will *also* stall out your cycle. I made that mistake the first time I did a bucket cycle. I thought "more ammonia=faster/better cycle!" but it doesn't work that way.  (Unfortunately, lol!) 

If the ammonia is too high, it will take much, much longer for the BB's that eat ammonia and convert it into nitrITE to work through all that food, and same for the BB's that convert the nitrITE into nitrATE. 

It's like you're at a buffet, and someone gives you six plates of food. There's no way you can eat all that at one time. So, you eat one plate, then you take several days to eat all the other plates. Ideally, you want them to bring you one plate of food, so that you can move on to doing other things. Same thing with your cycle. The nitrITE BB's only want one plate of ammonia.  

Does that help?


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Sorry for the confusion. I am doing a fish-less cycle.

Yes. Does 'stall' mean the same thing as 'restart'?


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Oh and does this product help a little, a lot, or not at all?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18986


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

CoolishPrune3 said:


> Oh and does this product help a little, a lot, or not at all?
> 
> http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18986



I'm not a fan bacteria in a bottle, but if you are going to use one that's the best. Dr. Hovanec did the original research on nitrifying bacteria in aquariums

R


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Dr Tim's O&O is arguably the best of the bottled bacteria products. It is shipped fresh from the factory in an insulated package, so it is the most likely to arrive in your tank fresh and healthy. It is also the most expensive i\of these products.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

I am going to try to finish this cycle first by myself with only the ammonia and patience. If I need a little kick start after a month and seeing no nitrites or nitrates I will considering give my tank a boost with this stuff. Thanks for your help everyone!


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

I have some new sponge filters on the way. I was wondering if I can swap out my HOB filter with the sponge filter and continue my cycle.


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

I wouldn't swap it but the sponge filter in addition to the HOB them remove the HOB after you have a stable cycle. If you remove the HOB now you may break the cycle

R


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Once I get my new sponge filters I will be replacing my already replaced Aquarius HOB filter from the one tank. If the filter craps out on my cycling tank, I will replace the HOB filter with that one. But, do I need to keep the original filter media in?


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Always keep the media in a cycled tank to keep it wet. Do you understand to run your new sponge filter in the same tank along with the HOB for a month to transfer the bacteria colony (Half of the colony, actually


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Uhm. I think so. I wasnt planning on moving the sponge filter. Is that what you mean?


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Hallyx said:


> Always keep the media in a cycled tank to keep it wet. Do you understand to run your new sponge filter in the same tank along with the HOB for a month to transfer the bacteria colony (Half of the colony, actually



I understand now. Run the HOB and sponge for a month together in the same tank so BB's can transfer from filter media to sponge media. Right?

My tank isn't cycled yet and no signs of nitrites as of yet.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Okay. So I have no luck in seeing any nitrites. I have slowed down on the dosing and I am only going to add ammonia when the test is in the yellow and dose for 2.0 ppm ammonia. Also, I have noticed a white and brown sludge building up on my rock deco and nothing else. Any ideas what this might be? (The white stuff is furry, kinda looks like smoke)


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

Patience grasshopper. 
Your doing fine.
I thought your ammonia was to high all along.

Rick


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

What about the slimey fuzz growing on the 1 piece of deco? Take it out and wash it under hot water?


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

Don't do anything at the moment.just let nature take its course, you can clean before adding fish it need be

R


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Okay, so the ammonia is still 1.0 ppm since the last dose of ammonia on 10/7. Should I do a 50% water change and start over or do I just let this tank keep going?


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

Just keep going you have come this far

R


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Just wanted to post some test results at this time. Ammonia doesn't seem to be falling and I am worried about the pH level. Also, there has been some stringy stuff growing on my tank where the water hits the wall of the aquarium as it comes out from the HOB filter. Are all these things with in the norm or am I looking at doing a water change and starting over?


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

... and here is a picture of the growth.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Your ammonia got a little high. Stop dosing until it goes down <2.0ppm. Your pH is fine; bacteria like it up there. At four weeks (like now) you might expect to see some nitrite. But it's not unusual for it not to happen. 

Have you been able to keep the tank warm, like >80*? Keep it dark?

I don't know what the fuzz is. I can't see your picture very well on my computer (my fault, not yours). But, if it bothers you, now might be a good time to do a 50% pwc and get rid of that stuff. Then see what happens with 2.0ppm ammonia.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

I have been keeping the tank warm. 79* to 81* and I turned it up a little to get it around 88*. Will doing a pwc stop the cycle process? Also, should I do some scrubbing to get the white stringy stuff of the aquarium and plants?


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

I would not do a WC just let process move along, the op temp is 85* F, pH is in a good place for cycling, keep ammonia between 1 and 2 ppm 

R


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Once the ammonia levels drop to .25-.50 ppm How should I dose? The instructions says 1 drop per gallon for 2.0 ppm. Should I maybe 1/2 the dosage and go with say 3 drops for 5 gallons??


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

3 for 5 and check

R


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Okay. Thanks for helping me out on this, so far.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Yay! Ammonia is going down. I know this because it took the whole 5 minutes to stop turning this time. Instead of at 2 minutes. So. Yesterday, I started Seachem Stability and I think that might be helping eat up that annoying ammonia. Here is a pic of water test this morning. I wish it was a time lapse photo.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

You should dose a test gallon. See how many drops it takes to raise the ammonia by 1.0ppm. When your ammonia finally drops to <0.50ppm, dose just enough to bring it back up to 1.0 to 2.0ppm. Watch for nitrite.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Never thought of that... considering i was following directions.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

So NO signs of Nitrites or Nitrates. Ammonia is still high 3-4 ppm. I am thinking about ordering some Nitrifying Bacteria or should I perhaps just do a water change and start over? Tell me what you think is best.


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

How long has it been?
Seem like forever.

R


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

I think I started cycling back in August. I dosed once for ammonia after the initial dose. However, nothing has changed since the last pictures I posted. The color has actually gotten darker, meaning the ammonia levels are going up, not going down.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Also, I was thinking about this too. Remember when I was asking about bottled water? Well I think this tank might be filled with bottled water. I can not be 100% sure because it has been so long. Do you think I should start over? If I do start over should I change my filter media or just give a good rinse out? Also I was wondering if it is okay to skip adding the water conditioner?


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Rickey I actually started at the end of Sept. Sorry. I think I am going to do a water change and start over because, even though I asked. I think I still used the bottled water... oops. So Ill go do a 100% water change and get back to you.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Good call, CP. A large water change will not stop what little progress you may have made. Don't replace anything. Don't wash anything, just rinse. Always use conditioner/dechlorinator. The chlorine kills bacteria.

The bacteria is in the air. It's hard waiting for it to fall into your tank and start multiplying. Waiting five/six weeks is not uncommon. If you can afford it, try Tetra Safestart. Many people have had good luck with it. If you're ordering online, and can afford a few dollars more, try Dr Tim's One-and-Only.

Good luck. Keep us posted.


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## CoolishPrune3 (Sep 4, 2013)

Thanks Hallyx. I started a new thread for my 2nd cycling attempt.

2nd attempt cycling thread.


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