# Why wont my tank cycle!!!!!



## Sherleelee (Dec 19, 2010)

*Im cycling two 5 gal tanks, and one of them is doing awsome! its already at its peak for nitrite where as my other one is still having no nitrite reading, and the ammonia lvls are still off the charts after like a 60% water change >.< the tank that has gotten no where it is 2 days behind casue i had to replace the filter but still its been like 1 1/2 weeks since and crap all *
*I am doing the pure ammonia method for my cycle and the tank is heated at 89 degrees. Any info would help.*


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## leogtr (Jan 19, 2011)

Sherleelee said:


> *Im cycling two 5 gal tanks, and one of them is doing awsome! its already at its peak for nitrite where as my other one is still having no nitrite reading, and the ammonia lvls are still off the charts after like a 60% water change >.< the tank that has gotten no where it is 2 days behind casue i had to replace the filter but still its been like 1 1/2 weeks since and crap all *
> *I am doing the pure ammonia method for my cycle and the tank is heated at 89 degrees. Any info would help.*



hi there!!

get some tetra safestart to speed it up a little bit!


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## ChicagoPete (Dec 27, 2010)

O.O why do you have the heat up so high!!!!! Your roasting eny bacteria that enters the tank from the air. Turn it down to 82 an see how it goes from there.


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## Sherleelee (Dec 19, 2010)

ChicagoPete said:


> O.O why do you have the heat up so high!!!!! Your roasting eny bacteria that enters the tank from the air. Turn it down to 82 an see how it goes from there.


I was told that keep it that warm so that the bacteria multiplies 
The other tank is the same temp and is doing awsome, as i said both tanks are getting the exact same treatment just one is being a terd.


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## ChicagoPete (Dec 27, 2010)

hmm strange as it sounds still try for me plz plz plz and bring it down to 82. ^.^


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## Sherleelee (Dec 19, 2010)

ChicagoPete said:


> hmm strange as it sounds still try for me plz plz plz and bring it down to 82. ^.^


 Already did


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## aeharding (Jan 4, 2011)

Even keeping the tank in the low 90s is beneficial for bacteria growth. Just bring the tank down 4ish degrees every twelve hours until it's where you want it so that you don't kill the bacteria from temperature fluctuations.


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## wallywestisthebest333 (Nov 30, 2009)

Can you give a complete history of what you've done with the tank? any details might help. and if nothing else you could try tossing a few stem plants in there to cut the ammonia down a bit. =]


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## ANHEL123 (Jul 21, 2010)

Just want to say about temperature. My betta perfect even in 72* the higher the temperature the more the bacteria and fungus flourishes.I have 2 bettas in dr office i am working the temperature in the tanks even lower and bettas are 2.7 years old,and never get sick yet . I know u guys not going to like the temperature parameters but it fact. His 2 bettas well i brought them there they rescue from Walmart in 1 gall for each. I just change 100% every 7 days. I work there every saturday. No filter ,i never even check the water i just put water conditioner. I don't know may be the doctor has some kind of positive energy


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## wallywestisthebest333 (Nov 30, 2009)

@ Anhel We are actually talking about starting up the GOOD bacteria inside of the filter that allows the tank to take care of itself. That might be why the doctor's fish are doing well. This person does not yet have their filter finished and they are working to get the good bacteria established. There is no fish in there yet. Keeping the heat up until the filter is finished cycling (what getting the good bacteria is called) helps. =]


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## HarleyRigid (Dec 26, 2010)

Didnt think you needed to do water changes when cycling. I was under the impression that you got your ammonia up and then kept it there. It will drop on its own when the bacteria start to convert it. Also when it does drop you want to bump it back up so that the Nitrosomonas bacteria dont starve while the Nitrospira bacteria begin converting the nitrite. I much prefer the shrimp in method. Drop your dead shrimp in and just watch the numbers. Tooooooo easy lol. 
If tank 1 has already started to progress with its cycle why not 'seed' tank 2 with bacteria from tank 1? Squeeze your filter sponge into tank 2. Some bacteria will be transfered and kick-start your cycle in tank 2. Also I would recommend dropping the temp a little. A raised temp will help the bacteria grow but too high will not be good.


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## turtle10 (Dec 30, 2010)

ANHEL123 said:


> Just want to say about temperature. My betta perfect even in 72* the higher the temperature the more the bacteria and fungus flourishes.I have 2 bettas in dr office i am working the temperature in the tanks even lower and bettas are 2.7 years old,and never get sick yet . I know u guys not going to like the temperature parameters but it fact. His 2 bettas well i brought them there they rescue from Walmart in 1 gall for each. I just change 100% every 7 days. I work there every saturday. No filter ,i never even check the water i just put water conditioner. I don't know may be the doctor has some kind of positive energy


If it is a one gallon with no filter you need to be doing 100% water changes *every* day. `Also even though you said your bettas seem fine, it is not recommended to keep the temperature that low. The recommended range is 76-82 degrees. Wow and the doctors office is lower than 72? Definitely get heaters asap.


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## Sherleelee (Dec 19, 2010)

wallywestisthebest333 said:


> Can you give a complete history of what you've done with the tank? any details might help. and if nothing else you could try tossing a few stem plants in there to cut the ammonia down a bit. =]


_*washed the new tank with hot water, same with the deco, put it all in the tank filled it up put in the water conditioar ( it doesnt take out Ammonia)*_
_*Setup the heater filter ect and added a teaspoon of ammonia.Replaced the Filter due to it having some faults. Waited a few days and tested again and Ammonia was still off charts so i did a 70% water change. Ammonia was still off charts with water change, so i let it go a few more days, tank got reallly cloudy ( due to sunlight i would assume) checked lvls still same so did another water change to get rid of the cloudyness.And since then i have just been letting the tank go. ( tho i have been messing with it more cause of my filter and bubbler not working together. the bubbler is taking more air so the filter isnt working so i have had to kink the hose) other than that its had nothing else done to it.*_

*Hope that helped >.<*


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## turtle10 (Dec 30, 2010)

Next time you see the cloudiness, leave it. That was your bacterial bloom


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## wallywestisthebest333 (Nov 30, 2009)

^^^ yep from what I read the cloudiness is a good thing. after a few more days of it being cloudy your ammonia levels should go down.

(I haven't cycled all the way though before though. I'm planting so I can avoid it! :'D)


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## penguin44 (Dec 18, 2010)

Hey guys, Im new to this as well. Been trying to cycle fishless with a piece of shrimp. Started Jan 1st. 10 gallon FW with filter and heater. Heat is at 83. 
So I got bloom, and then ammo and now its Feb6th and still not seeing anything.
Ammo is 4ppm (down from 5-6ppm last week)
Nitrite is above 0 but below .25 still has a blue hue but not 0.
Nitrate is 0
Ph 7.5
Filter is running.
Nitrite has been at this level since week 2 or so. Any suggestions? More shrimp? Leave it? I don't want to add another if it will raise the ammo to like 8ppm and stall the cycle. I know patience is the key to this. Anything I can do?


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## wallywestisthebest333 (Nov 30, 2009)

I typically encourage ditching the cycling process and just getting plants but with a ten gallon that's a bit tricky. :/ You'd need A LOT of plants.

Nothing I can advise really so I'm just gonna post so someone with cycling experience see this! XD


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## Sherleelee (Dec 19, 2010)

*Realllly hope these tanks get fully cycled soon >.< my betta fish are suppose to be shipped out in the next 2 weeks*


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## Sherleelee (Dec 19, 2010)

wallywestisthebest333 said:


> I typically encourage ditching the cycling process and just getting plants but with a ten gallon that's a bit tricky. :/ You'd need A LOT of plants.
> 
> Nothing I can advise really so I'm just gonna post so someone with cycling experience see this! XD


*Do live plants make the cycling process quicker? If so on wed when i get payed ill head down to my LFS and get maybe 2-3 live plants per tank.*


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## turtle10 (Dec 30, 2010)

You will need more than 2-3 lol.


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## Sherleelee (Dec 19, 2010)

turtle10 said:


> You will need more than 2-3 lol.


_*The tank is already pretty crowded with deco, dunno if i could fit more than that,*_


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## turtle10 (Dec 30, 2010)

Well for the plants to make a difference you will need a lot. If it helps, these are the live plants in my 10 gallon:

12 Anacharis
1 Anubias
1 Vallis
2 Micro Swords
1 Wisteria
1 small hornwort
1 thing I can't remember the name of..


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## wallywestisthebest333 (Nov 30, 2009)

Buy a nice bunch of the CHEAP stem plants like anacharis for the time being and just toss them in there. When they float near the light they should start growing pretty well and you'll have a lot more after a few weeks. =]

If you don't want to keep them and you want your tank to actually filter-cycle then yeah it'll help. =]

I believe your goal is to filter cycle yes?

It might actually take your filter longer to seed itself but it'll make water changes during the cycling process a bit easier on you I think.

I'm not really sure though because as I stated I'm stuffing mine full of plants to avoid cycling! :'D


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## penguin44 (Dec 18, 2010)

Would another shrimp help?


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## leogtr (Jan 19, 2011)

penguin44 said:


> Hey guys, Im new to this as well. Been trying to cycle fishless with a piece of shrimp. Started Jan 1st. 10 gallon FW with filter and heater. Heat is at 83.
> So I got bloom, and then ammo and now its Feb6th and still not seeing anything.
> Ammo is 4ppm (down from 5-6ppm last week)
> Nitrite is above 0 but below .25 still has a blue hue but not 0.
> ...


you can leave it for now. your tank will show more nitrItes soon, then the ammonia will be gone, then some nitrates and after the nitrItes disappear and you only have nitrates just do a 50% water change and your set for fish! are you using a master test kit to measure the parameters?


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## turtle10 (Dec 30, 2010)

A shrimp doesn't do what plants do.


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## penguin44 (Dec 18, 2010)

leogtr said:


> you can leave it for now. your tank will show more nitrItes soon, then the ammonia will be gone, then some nitrates and after the nitrItes disappear and you only have nitrates just do a 50% water change and your set for fish! are you using a master test kit to measure the parameters?


Yes, API master kit. Makes it feel like science class LOL. 

Ok, good thing you said to leave it. I was going to put another shrimp in but didnt think that was a good idea. Thanks, you guys/gals rock. Any idea on a timeframe? I know all cycles are different. I mean i am at 4 1/2 weeks.


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## kfish (Oct 5, 2010)

It took me 8 weeks to cycle my 5 gallon. This was a fish-in cycle, however, so I changed a lot of water.

It's really best to just leave it and let it go when you don't have to worry about fish health. You'll do your large water change before you add the fish.


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## penguin44 (Dec 18, 2010)

Sorry to add to the thread again, so my shrimp has dissolved to nothing. I think maybe a bit of tail but not much. Will that be enough to keep things moving?


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## Sherleelee (Dec 19, 2010)

I have herd of tera safe start which im gonna try to speed up the cycles of my tank ( have 2 new tanks i need to cycle now >.<) anyone have anything to say about this product would love to know


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## ChicagoPete (Dec 27, 2010)

nope never heard of it but I do use Seachems Stability witch does something simmler by adding bacteria that is sopoosedly to aid in getting it started. I got it in a small 3 pack kit that also had Prime and Clearity in it as well.


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## Sherleelee (Dec 19, 2010)

*Ah ok, well ill talk to my LFS and see if they have anything, casue im still waiting on one of the 2, 5 gallon tanks to fully cycle so i can seed but there still a week or so away from being done. And im not sure how long a 15 gallon will take to cycle with just the pure ammonia method so speeding it up as fast as i can would be awsome ^.^*
*Thanks for the info *


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## kfish (Oct 5, 2010)

Did you get some live plants? They're awesome at speeding up the process.


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## vilmarisv (Apr 17, 2010)

Take some of the gravel or the deco int he tank that cycled and move it to the one that hasn't. This will transfer some bacteria a speed up things for you. 
I cycled a 2.5 in 2 weeks my getting a handfull of gravel from an established tank.


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## Thunderloon (Feb 6, 2011)

*I've run into many cycle-stall problems.*

Nobody's asked whether you used softened/RO/distilled water.


Everybody reads books and pages and articles about what to do to keep the _fish_ alive but I've only found one page that talks about bacteria.

So, some tidbits about bacteria.

Nitrification bacteria need high-ish pH to grow and thrive.
Nitrification bacteria consume water.
All bacteria need calcium.
All bacteria have to do chemistry to poop.
No bacteria like light.
No bacteria like Chloramine, it looks like ammonia but kills bacteria who eat it.

There's no guarantee that the ammonia in a bottle is free of other contaminants so what I do is toss in old food and stir it down in. 
Also get a couple boxes of cheap distilled drinking water jugs down at the store, this is to keep from having to add prime/aquasafe during cycle-up.

Add untreated water to new tank, add filter with all parts, run without carbon or heat for a half day. 
Add prime at ONLY two drops per gallon other chlorine/chloramine additive at minimum dose gallon. Continue running for about another five hours.
Stick in carbon filter and run for about five more hours then remove carbon.
I add one cup of bottom rock in a filter's bag from another aquarium down where the output flow circulates at this point. If you're going to use the same rock you can just dump it in but make sure it is all together to hide it from light.
Now adjust your pH a little, DON'T use liquid acid use low pH buffers like discus buffer. The point here is to add not only the pH lowering buffer but also to add a raising buffer in order to put a high load of calcium in the tank while keeping the pH over 7.5.
Throw in stale fish food, anything will do... you can even pour it into the back of the filter so it lodges in the bio-media if you like. I usually have some dregs of Fancy Guppy around, it's over 50% proteins.
Turn on the heater, no warmer than the range your tank will OPERATE at. There's no point in having bacteria that like ninety five degrees in a seventy four degree tank. They do mutate and genetically adjust.
Walk away for a few days and expect to lose a fair bit of water.

When you come back to check the tank for cycle there are some things to watch for:
High ammonia content can stop the bacteria from reproducing, seems odd but ammonia is also toxic to the bacteria that eat it.
Nitrite climb over the top of the scale is very very bad it can cause substrate saturation. Nitrite is the carbon-monoxide of aquariums.
Nitrate over 130 can start slowing reproduction of bacteria. 
If your ammonia is over 4, nitrite over 5 or nitrate over 150, do a water change with the distilled water. I've actually stalled a starting cycle using treated tap water. You can use carbon filtered or RO water instead.

Hardness is kinda like the mineral and salt solution in ocean water. Evaporation should be replaced by purified water but any water removed from the tank should be replaced with your normal replacement water.

I have actually stalled biology in a tank both from too much hardness and from not enough.

So you've got to have hardness, high normal pH, control of ammonia nitrite and nitrate, darkness and truly clean water.

Break down that stalled 5 gallon and do a sink water rinse of everything on its filter except the bio-media and bung the filter on the other tank with the media in it. Drain the stalled one out and fill it with all but a gallon then stir in two drops per gallon of prime and throw in an air stone on "blend" output. Give that a day then add in one gallon water from a live tank and put the filter back on it with about six days worth of fish food in the back.

And, my best advice. Start your filters a month before you set up a new tank, run em in a tank you already have control of. Remember that it takes a bio-wheel about 30 hours to completely wet and become calcified media for bacteria.

I usually cheat at cycling a tank, but being a filter tinkerer I have lots of sleeping filters around.


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## Hadouken441 (Jan 27, 2010)

+1. Excellent answer. saved me some typing haha.


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