# MUST READ! General Betta Care and FAQ (V. 3.0)



## Cody

:arrow: *General Betta Care and FAQ *
Index: 
-Introduction 
-Background Information 
-Classification and General Care 
-Needed Tank Equipment 
-Maintenance 
-FAQ 


:arrow:  Introduction: 

Bettas are one of the most popular fish kept. Most people think they need zero to little care, but that is not the case. Here is an important topic for everyone wanting to see the best conditions for their betta. 


:arrow: Background Info: 
Bettas come from tropical areas in Asia, from Thailand to Borneo, to Malaysia, to Cambodia. Here is a sticky for that needed information: http://www.fishforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=10494. Two male bettas should never be placed in the same tank unless it has a divider. In the wild, bettas do not fight to the death. They fight until there is a clear winner for territory, then the lesser male will go off and hide, or jump to another area to find safety (which is why bettas should always be in covered tanks, but still have access to air). In small tanks, there is no where to hide, thus leading to deaths. Bettas are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish for that reason. 

:arrow:  Sexing: 
Male Betta Splendens *generally* have longer fins than females, but there some cases in which that is incorrect. Male Plakats have short fins, for example. The only sure way to sex them is to look for a white, egg spot on a females underside near the anal fin. Here are some basic pictures of Betta Spendens to show that.

Male Betta (with labeled features): 









Female Betta: 









Wild Betta. You can see the common household betta has changed and morphed a lot:


:arrow:  Classification and General Care: 

Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Subphylum: Vertebrata
Class: Actinoptergii
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Anabantoidei
Family: Belontiidae
Genus: Betta
Species: Betta splendens

-Scientific Name: Betta spendens 
-Common Names: Betta, Siamese Fighting Fish 
-Care Level: Easy when under proper conditions (see needed tank supplies) 
-Max Size: 3 inches 
-pH level: 6.0-8.0 
-Temperature: Should not fall below 76, better yet 78 degrees. A good range is 76-86F. Bettas are tropical fish that need high temperatures. A heater is needed. 
-Life Span: 3-6 years. 
-Diet: In the wild, they feed off of mosquito larvae, mosquitos, other insects and their larvae, daphnia, and worms. In the home aquaria many bettas won’t eat flake food. If you choose to try offering flakes, please be sure they are specifically betta flakes and not tropical flakes. Tropical flake food does not provide the proper nutrition for a betta. Meaty foods should be their staple diet. Vegetables should be avoided. Peas are sometimes suggested for bettas, please don’t. A betta’s digestive tract is not designed to handle that kind of roughage in their diet, thus the reason it acts like a laxative. Feeding peas to a betta can severely damage their digestive tract and lead to permanent damage and early death.
-Tank Region: All over, but mainly the Top. 


Here is a list of betta species. All have their own special needs, and are very exotic (Scientific name, then Common Name) 



> _Betta akarensis (Akar Betta)
> Betta albimarginata (Betta Albimarginata)
> Betta anabatoides (Giant Betta)
> Betta balunga (Betta Balunga)
> Betta bellica (Slender Betta)
> Betta breviobesus (Betta Breviobesus)
> Betta brownorum (Brown's Betta)
> Betta burdigala (?)
> Betta channoides (?)
> Betta chini (?)
> Betta chloropharynx (Greenthroat Mouthbrooder)
> Betta coccina (Wine Red Betta)
> Betta dimidiata (Dwarf Mouthbrooder)
> Betta edithae (New Ediths Mouthbrooder)
> Betta enisae (Blue Band Mouthbrooder)
> Betta falx (?)
> Betta foerschi (Betta foerschi)
> Betta fusca (Brown Betta)
> Betta hipposideros (?)
> Betta imbellis (Peaceful Betta)
> Betta krataios (?)
> Betta livida (?)
> Betta macrophthalma (Big Eye Mouthbrooder)
> Betta macrostoma (Peacock Mouthbrooder)
> Betta miniopinna (Small Fin Fighter)
> Betta ocellata (Eyespot Mouthbrooder)
> Betta patoti (?)
> Betta persephone (Black Small Fighter)
> Betta pi (?)
> Betta picta (Javan Mouth-Brooding Fighting Fish
> Betta pinguis (?)
> Betta prima (Threelined Mouthbrooder)
> Betta pugnax (Forest Betta, Malayan Betta, Penang betta)
> Betta pulchra (Beauty Mouthbrooder)
> Betta renata (Betta Renata)
> Betta rubra (Red Sumatran Fighter)
> Betta rutilans (Redish Dwarf Fighter)
> Betta schalleri (Schallers Mouthbrooder)
> Betta simorum (Simor Fighter)
> Betta simplex (Simple Mouthbrooder)
> Betta smaragdina (Smaragd Fighting Fish)
> Betta spilotogena (Double Lipspot Mouthbrooder)
> Betta splendens (Siamese Fighting Fish)
> Betta strohi (Father Strohs Mouthbrooder)
> Betta taeniata (Betta Taeniata)
> Betta tomi (Tomi Mouthbrooder)
> Betta trifasciata (Betta Trifasciata)
> Betta tussyae (Tussys Small Red Fighter)
> Betta unimaculata (One Spot Mouthbrooder)
> Betta waseri (Wasers Mouthbrooder)_


 :arrow:  Needed Tank Equipment: 

-Tank of AT LEAST 2 Gallons. Some people believe in 5 gallons as minimum. Yes, a fish can live in small tanks, but they thrive in proper conditions in roomy areas. 
-Heater. heater, heater, heater. This is absolutely needed. The temperature in the tank needs to stay at least at 78 degrees. These are tropical fish, and become very lethargic if kept in cold water. A light will not be sufficient enough for heat. In the night, temperature can easily drop 8+ degrees, which can kill as fish. Room temperature is not enough either. Hydor makes a wonderful heater for small tanks of 2.5 gallons and less. It resembles a heating pad and they work wonderfully while not being overly expensive.
-Hiding Spots: Hiding spots, such as caves, make bettas fell secure. This way, they can escape from light and rest. Make sure the hiding spots are not sharp, as bettas have very delicate fins. 
-Filter: This is actually not needed, but it helps. Bettas need a light filter with low flow. They should have very little water movement in a tank. The filter will also keep water clean. 
-Light: This helps when it gets dark. Most tanks come with some sort of light, but if not, that should be fine. Simple desk lamps or reading lamps can help give yoru betta the right amount of light. 
-Thermometer: This will help keep the temperature under control. 
-Liquid Test Kit: A liquid Test Kit will help keep you know your Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels. Ammonia and nitrite should always be 0, nitrates under 20ppm, and pH at a level of 6-7.5. 
-Access to Air. Betta spendens gets its oxygen from breathing air at the surface. That is the function of the labyrinth organ. If a betta can’t reach the surface for oxygen, it will drown. For this reason, while it is important to offer a well decorated environment, it is also important to make sure the betta has plenty of easy access to the surface of the water. The air temp above the water needs to be close to the temp of the water to avoid infections and shock. 

Here is a good Betta Tank: 








It includes a heater, hood, live plants, and hiding spots. Perfect! 

:arrow:  Maintenance: 

A betta needs some sort of maintenance, as would any other fish. They are not "magic fish" and can take care of themselves. Here is a list to insure the best care of your betta in which you, the owner, must provide. 

1) Weekly Water changes. A filter cannot take out everything in the water. Would you like to live in your own poop? This is why bettas need regular water changes.
A betta tank should never need 100% water changes unless working with medications. Too drastic of a change in water params can cause illness and death to any fish. Bettas can withstand more than the average tropical fish, and 50% changes are good for them if done frequently enough. The smaller the tank size the more frequent the water changes should be done. Anything under 2.5 gallons should have a 50% change every other day. 2.5 and more should have 50% changes at least twice/wk. If a filter is running in the tank, 50% changes once/wk are usually plenty.
2) Testing Water. You need to keep an eye out for your bettas water paramaters. Water params are nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, pH, and water hardness. A good liquid test kit will help determine what is in the water. Ammonia and nitrite should be at 0, and nitrates under 20. The pH level should be between 6-7.5. If any levels seem wrong, do a water change to get clean water in the tank.


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## Cody

:arrow:  Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ): 

-*How do I breed bettas?*
Spawning bettas is not necessarily difficult if you know what you’re doing and are prepared for the outcome. The fish first need to be conditioned by feeding well with good meaty foods such as brine shrimp and live blackworms. The female should get nice and plump full of eggs during this time. Most bettas can be conditioned for breeding within about 2 wks. Once conditioned, the fish should be safely introduced to each other where they cannot yet come in contact with each other. Putting the female into a covered cup (with small air hole in cover) half full of water and floating that in the male’s tank is one method frequently used. Dividers can be tricky due to the betta’s ability to jump over it.) If the fish have access to each other too soon it is possible for them to fight instead of mate, which can be potentially deadly to either fish. Once exposed to either other by sight, the male will then build a bubble nest as he courts the female with frequent displays in front of her. They both will flare their gills at each other in their mating display. The female’s stripes will change direction. Once the bubble nest is in tact, then the female can be released into the male’s tank. It is very important that she be removed immediately after the spawning has taken place, and this must be done without disturbing the bubble nest. For this reason it is a good idea to use a long shallow tank (a 15 – 20 gallon long tank filled 2/3 of the way with water works nicely) with lots of shelter for the female to hide away from the male and his nest. Eggs hatch within 24 – 48 hrs. The fry are born with a yolk sac, and will feed on this for the first day or 2. Once the fry are free swimming, the male should be removed. Some males will eat the fry. Care for the fry is the hardest part of spawning bettas. Their water must be extremely clean at all times, yet they must be fed 3 – 5 times/day. Airline tubing works well for removing any solid waste and dirty water, but care must be taken to ensure the fry are not sucked up.
Bettas grow rather slowly, so they don’t usually show color until they are 3 – 4 months of age. They must also be watched closely, and separated as soon as aggression begins among them. This can happen as soon as 8 wks after hatching. Each betta should have a container of its own at this point, males and females both. Female siblings can sometimes be kept together a bit longer than the males, but females are just as aggressive as males, so this is only temporary. 
A betta spawn can include up to 100+ fry. The difficulty in spawning bettas is usually in separating 100+ fry so each has a container of its own, with daily water changes and feedings 3 – 5 times/day until they reach the size of 1 – 1 ½ inches.
Proper foods for betta fry include daphnia, newly hatched and strained brine shrimp (this can be a difficult and messy process), and crumbled betta flake food. A combination of these foods is best.
It’s always a good idea to plan an outlet for betta fry BEFORE spawning begins. Many lfs’s won’t take bettas younger than 6 months – 1 yr old, or until they are at full size and color. 

-*What temperature should I keep my betta at?*
Minimum 76 degrees farenheit. A safe range is 76-86. The important thing is that it needs to be stable. These are tropical fish that will not tolerate cold water. 

-*Why do bettas fight?*
They are in the Ananbantid phylum, and mark their territory with bubble nests. Males will not tolerate other males who enter this area.

-*Can I keep bettas with goldfish?*
No. Goldfish require large tanks with massive filtration, and coldwater. Bettas are tropical and need very low flow.

-*What fish can I keep my betta with?*
Any fish that is tropical, is not nippy, and does not have long fins. Bettas are very slow fish and should not be housed with fish like Male Guppies, Tiger Barbs, Angelfish, Goldfish, and most Minnows. You can also keep ADF’s, some shrimp, or snails all depending on the personality of your betta. Bettas do best with peaceful bottom dwellers and/or inverts. 

-*My betta is bloated. What do I do?*
Peas are not healthy for a betta and can cause permanent damage to their digestive system and shorten life span. If a betta is bloated then it is time to take a look at water quality and feeding habits, as well as temperature. An overfed fish is an unhealthy fish at risk of bloating. An adult betta should be fed once/day and should be able to finish all food within 2 minutes. Bettas have very small stomachs and need time to digest food before consuming more. Improper foods can also cause bloating, as can digestive tract problems and intestinal parasites.

-*What kind of water do I use for my betta?*
A reliable source of spring water can be used safely for a betta. The use of RO/DI water will require the addition of needed minerals & nutrients, as would distilled water. The purification process done with distilling makes distilled water the most pure, and thus the most dangerous for a fish. The process of RO and DI will also remove many minerals and nutrients the betta fish need for their organs to function properly. Tap water is usually the safest, but use of water conditioner is very important. Water conditioner will neutralize chlorine and chloramines, as well as toxic heavy metals that may be found in tap water sources. Testing tap water before using it for a betta is important. There are other, more complicated ways to make tap water safe. If you find you have high ammonia, nitrite, and/or nitrate in your tap water, and can’t find a good source of bottled water, then those other options should be considered. (other options include using a bucket, filter, and filter media to clean the water before using it in the betta tank) 

-*My betta wont eat!*
Bettas can get bored with the same food every day. The best way to get your betta to eat is to try a variety of foods. When he is hungry, he will eat if the food is proper. Brine shrimp, live blackworms, and very small snails can often tempt even the fussiest of bettas. By keeping a variety of foods in the diet, this will prevent the fish from becoming bored with the food, and will also prevent any risk of malnutrition. Food sources should be meaty foods, such as small insects, insect larvae, small worms, brine shrimp, etc. Vegetables such as peas can cause severe damage to a betta’s digestive tract and should be avoided.

-*Why did my fish change colors?*
A mature betta shouldn’t change colors other than to get a bit brighter during spawning, and the stripes on the females will change direction. Faded color in a betta is a good indication that something is wrong. A sick fish will lose color and luster, as will an old fish and/or a stressed fish. If you notice a color change in your betta, it is then a good idea to do some water testing, check temp, be sure there are plenty of decorations, air is easily obtained from the surface, and be sure he’s getting the proper diet. If all needs are being met, then it is time to begin looking for other signs of illness.

-*Why are there bubbles on the top of my tank?*
These are made by male bettas. This means he is happy, healthy, and ready for spawning (but doesn't mean they have to spawn).

-*How long do bettas live?*
Anywhere from 1 year to 6 years, but a healthy betta is generally 3-5 years.

-*My betta is laying down on the bottom of the tank!*
Temperature is too cold. A heater will fix this up. Bettas become very lethargic when kept at low temperatures. This can also be a sign of illness and/or stress. Be sure the fish has plenty of hiding places, water params are in good standing, and there are no other signs of illness such as tattered fins, fins with holes in them, white patches on the body, fuzzy growths, swelling of the eyes or abdomen, or anything else that appears to be “off”. Laying at the bottom can also be a sign of old age. As bettas mature into old age they slow down, both in metabolism and activity level. It is often necessary to lower water levels for older fish so they don’t have as far to swim to obtain oxygen. 

-*Can a betta’s tail grow back?*
Yes, when kept at proper conditions. However, that is also largely dependent on why the fins were lost in the first place. If it’s an infection such as fin rot, medications would be needed before healing could begin.

-*Does my betta need a filter?*
Need, no. Recommended, highly. The only reason that people don't like bettas with filters is because they are often found in still-water rice paddies. But why would a betta be so special as to not receive proper care? The Azoo Palm Filter/Red Sea Nano Filter, as well as the Whisper internal filters are great.


I hope this information will help everyone keep their betta for as long as they can in thriving conditions.

**Many thanks to Bettababy for the new, extra information**


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## Twistersmom

Im glad you made this post. I am now in the process of setting my 5gal tank back up to put a Betta in. All the great people in the forum talked me into it. Never had a Betta, and they made me feel I was missing out on something great. I do have a question. Why are they sometimes kept in blue water at the stores?


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## Cody

I am not 100% sure to be honest. Someone else will know.


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## dramaqueen

The blue water is medication. I was told that they use it as a disease preventative.I'm glad we talked you into getting a betta. You'll be glad you did


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## aunt kymmie

Twistersmom said:


> Im glad you made this post. I am now in the process of setting my 5gal tank back up to put a Betta in. All the great people in the forum talked me into it. Never had a Betta, and they made me feel I was missing out on something great. I do have a question. Why are they sometimes kept in blue water at the stores?


You won't be sorry. They are amusing, entertaining fish with loads of *personality*.

Great post, Cody! It should be a must read for anyone considering keeping a betta(s). Nice job.


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## Lupin

Blue water is methylene blue. Disease preventive measure is snake oil. Just a pathetic excuse in my opinion. The fish does not need meds in its water as long as the water is replaced frequently to cope with the wastes that is responsible for the deterioration of water quality and even health issues.


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## dramaqueen

Yeah, but unfortunately, petstores don't change their water frequently enugh.


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## MADxMAC771

Twistersmom said:


> Im glad you made this post. I am now in the process of setting my 5gal tank back up to put a Betta in. All the great people in the forum talked me into it. Never had a Betta, and they made me feel I was missing out on something great. I do have a question. Why are they sometimes kept in blue water at the stores?


I also heard it was for disease "prevention". Most walmart that carry bettas never seem to have anyone on staff qualified or educated to the point of caring for the fish properly. Take a look at all the tuperware they are kept in next time. Any ones with the blue water most likely still have feces all over in their "tank". All the ones that are dead (normally most of them) are sitting rotting in water that is no longer blue... there is no point for preventative medication anymore.


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## birthdaybetta

Very informative and helpful, thanks for sharing.


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## minty

nice post cody. i like your interest on bettas.
check out my betta MINTY's photos in ma thread.


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## Curegirl80

Great post! Very informative.


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## ibetta

Lupin said:


> Blue water is methylene blue. Disease preventive measure is snake oil. Just a pathetic excuse in my opinion. The fish does not need meds in its water as long as the water is replaced frequently to cope with the wastes that is responsible for the deterioration of water quality and even health issues.


I use it all the time, int's great in my opinion, not to be rude


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## MrVampire181

Just one thing, I'm the SAME person as Ibetta, that account didn't work, so I had to get a new email and another account.


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## rrjones3

Thanks for the very helpful post.


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## LiyahsGrandma

Thanks so much for the information


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## msfishtoyou

*Thank you!*

Hi! I just joined and want to say 'Thank you' for this forum and especially thank you for the "Must Read Fish Care' thread. Wow, that answered all the questions I had.

Currently I do not have my own Betta but yesterday I received a friend's Betta to take care of for about 3 weeks while the family is on vacation. I had fish, including a Betta, years ago, so it's been awhile and I needed a refresher course on the care of Betta's - and this place had the answers! 

I can tell Mr. Fishy, as I call him, is happy because there were tiny bubbles today and by reading this thread I now know what that means. :-D


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## dramaqueen

Hello and welcome to FishForum.


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## msfishtoyou

Thank you dramaqueen.

Can you tell me what is the minimum amount of time to let tap water sit before using? Thank you.


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## MrVampire181

msfishtoyou said:


> Thank you dramaqueen.
> 
> Can you tell me what is the minimum amount of time to let tap water sit before using? Thank you.


 
Once it's treated it's safe but it should match your bettas temperature before using it.


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## neenjar

MrVampire181 said:


> Once it's treated it's safe but it should match your bettas temperature before using it.


This is true, you can go a step further if you have a bucket to spare and let the treated water sit about 24 hours. While not necessary it surely does not hurt.


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## msfishtoyou

Thank you for answering!!!


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## Goodgardenpeas28

*SO Angry*

I am so angry at the pet store I bought my betta from. I went in asking for a "low-maintenance" fish he shows me a betta says ALL I NEED IS A TANK! oh and the food, no heater no filter not even water conditioner! I come on this site to learn more about my betta and I find out that I could potentially be killing my fish because of some stupid pet store employee, fortunately I already have him in a 2 gallon container instead of the tiny fishbowl they tried to sell me! GRRR It makes me so angry when pet store clerks misrepresent their knowledge about animals it makes me want to scream. Thank you so much for the useful info on my betta, I am now in the process of getting him a heater!


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## Belbster66

I have a question! Do i have to have a filter in my tank???? And I am about to buy a betta fish from a walmart! What advice do you give me about choosing a healthy one?


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## Belbster66

I have a question! Do i have to have a filter in my tank???? And I am about to buy a betta fish from a walmart! What advice do you give me about choosing a healthy one?


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## Scienceluvr8

No, you don't have to, but depending on your tank size, it can make cleanings much easier. What size tank are you planning on keeping him? 

Well, when choosing a betta, first see if he is acitve/responsive. Look at the fins, check to see if their curled, frayed, or have tiny holes,this could be fin rot. They may look a little depressed, some are just like that because of their small containers, once home they will show their true personality! Good luck on finding a fish!


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## 1077

Belbster66 said:


> I have a question! Do i have to have a filter in my tank???? And I am about to buy a betta fish from a walmart! What advice do you give me about choosing a healthy one?


Do yourself and the Betta a huge favor. Keep the fish in a tank of at least five gal with a small heater and a filter. Sponge filters are inexpensive and work well.Most of the people here have good intentions in regards to their fish but they keep insisting on keeping these fish in small ,unfiltered, Containers. Worse yet in my view,, they tell newcomers it's ok. Bottom line,, these fish don't care if you love them, all they want,(need) is a proper enviornment. Anything smaller than five gal, Ten would be better, is cruel treatment in my view. Read up on cycling an aquarium and give your fish the enviornment it deserves.
To those who suggest otherwise,,,You are in my view,, Just a step above walmart,petco, etc in their care of these fish and you promote the same treatment by telling others it's ok. One need only look at the numerous posts regarding sick Bettas to find merit with my statements and I apologize to no one for them.:|


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## Belbster66

Thank u guys a ton this really helped me to figure out what i need to do this is my first betta and i didn't realize all that had to be done for them this really helped right now my betta is gonna be in a one gallon tank but i am in the process of buying him a five gallon tank within the next week and getting a heater and filter thanks soooo much!!!


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## Belbster66

The only reason i decided to get one from Walmart is because i saw them yesterday and felt awful for them the all look so depressed and a lot of them have lost there color and are being put in VERY small containers that the can barley move in :-( so i felt as if i needed to rescue them


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## Vikki81207

My baby Blue is from Walmart and he is one of my favorites. He's been by far the healthiest of my boys. Hes a great fish too. Lets me pet him sometimes


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## Belbster66

Yeah  I just got my fish today I named her blossum and she is sooo cool!! Very active  I just set up her tank and am so excited to put her in it tommorrow!!!!


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## msfishtoyou

Congrats on blossum.


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## dramaqueen

Congrats!!


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## Belbster66

I have 1 more question!! I just put blossum in her tank and she just seems to be sitting there next to the filter and not exploring the tank. Does that mean something is wrong??


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## dramaqueen

She may just be getting used to her new home.


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## dr2b

I'd give her some time to get used to her home. Congrats on your new addition!


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## Cody

Belbster66 said:


> I have 1 more question!! I just put blossum in her tank and she just seems to be sitting there next to the filter and not exploring the tank. Does that mean something is wrong??


Lets see...

You said you just set up the tank a day before you added the betta. The tank has not gone through a cycle, and she is probably suffering from ammonia posioning (soon, at least) and/or a cold temperature. Then again, she could be shocked from a new tank, but I believe it would be the first.


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## beckywhite1979

Hi

I have just set up my tropical tank, and am waiting a couple of weeks before beginning to stock it. I would love to have a betta as one of my fish. What are good fish to put with one? Would neon or cardinal tetras be ok? Someone has told me these are fin nippers, but I have never experienced this with them. All the neons of my experience have been extremely peaceful. Tank is 10 gallons. I am contemplating a shoal of 6 tetras, and one betta.

Opinions?


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## dramaqueen

Hello and welcome to FishForum. I think it depends on the personality of your betta as far as what he will or will not get along with.


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## Cody

Cardinals and Neons are always nippy to bettas, from what I've seen. Bettas are not community fish and should be alone.

But, saying no one reads that part, go for something less nippy. All tetras are out. Cories are great.


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## dramaqueen

I agree with Cody. Bettas are solitary and better off by themselves and do not get lonely.


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## MystressRose

Let's see...of what I have read here, there seems to be agreat debate about communities for bettas and filters. I really think it depends on the fish. I started Pennywise with a 14G tank, by himself, with a filter. He hated the filter (kept attacking the moving water and bubbles), so I took it out. I wondered about the community question for him since I got him from a store that housed him with other fish (some Kuli Loaches and shrimp). I went to a local place and was told to try the GloFish. I was worried at first, but bought 3 and introduced them to the tank. At first, PennyWise seemed to be very interested in them while they were in the bag, but once they went in he pretty much ignored them. They haven't nipped his fins, though I keep a close eye on it. So far so good. The smallest died a week after, but he seemed "off" from the beginning (his fins were smaller than the others). I plan on adding some Kulis, shrimp, and more Glos later after upgrading to a 30G.


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## BakaMandy

@MystressRose: He might not be attacking the bubbles though, but just playing with them. I've heard bettas find amusement chasing bubbles. My male used to do it too but kinda got bored of it xD. Also is your filter set to low flow? They like relatively still water, so the lower the flow the better.

As for putting them with other fish, it really depends on their personality. You have to watch them closely; some don't mine, some are aggressive and some get stressed out so you have to be careful.

And be careful with tank size, you can stress your betta out buy giving him too much territory. Even though you probably don't plan on adding another male to the tank, he doesn't know that and will continue to patrol and protect it. Also the deeper the tank, the more likely they'll get stressed out as well, since they like shallow water.


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## LappyGreen

my sister bought me 2 bettas for my birthday on the 12th. one's a male (Lappy) and the other is a female (Green). 

They seem to get along quite well. Lappy made a huge bunch of bubbles on one side of the tank several times and they often 'chase' each other around and blow bubbles. 

i have a 2.5 gallon tank with a fake plant and i added a little cave thing last night. they initially looked scared but began swimming in and out of it. i thought all was great. 

tonight i came home and Lappy's tail was practically half the size and i saw little pieces inside the filter. 2 days ago i noticed Green's tale was a little shredded. 

i noticed they both seem to hang by the filter a lot. is this causing the shredding? there's nothing else that looks different about them, just the shorter fins. 

any ideas? (sorry so long)


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## dramaqueen

No, its probably from fighting. Males and females should not be housed together, no matter what they say at the petstores.


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## LappyGreen

unfortunately, i learned you were right. 

today i came home and the male was floating with his mouth into the gravel. all his fins were off. she ate him. 

how bizzare


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## dramaqueen

I'm so sorry about your fish.


----------



## LappyGreen

thank you. he had a lovely burial at sea. =(

on a brighter note, the female is happy as a little clam in the tank. swimming all over, making little kissy faces at me, all happy and lovely.


----------



## Grimmjow

Cody said:


> Cardinals and Neons are always nippy to bettas, from what I've seen. Bettas are not community fish and should be alone.
> 
> But, saying no one reads that part, go for something less nippy. All tetras are out. Cories are great.


 Say that to the eaten neon that got too close to Spikes corner :twisted:


----------



## 1077

Cody said:


> :arrow: *General Betta Care and FAQ *
> Index:
> -Introduction
> -Background Information
> -Classification and General Care
> -Needed Tank Equipment
> -Maintenance
> -FAQ
> 
> 
> :arrow: Introduction:
> 
> Bettas are one of the most popular fish kept. Most people think they need zero to little care, but that is not the case. Here is an important topic for everyone wanting to see the best conditions for their betta.
> 
> 
> :arrow: Background Info:
> Bettas come from tropical areas in Asia, from Thailand to Borneo, to Malaysia, to Cambodia. Here is a sticky for that needed information: http://www.fishforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=10494. Two male bettas should never be placed in the same tank unless it has a divider. In the wild, bettas do not fight to the death. They fight until there is a clear winner for territory, then the lesser male will go off and hide, or jump to another area to find safety (which is why bettas should always be in covered tanks, but still have access to air). In small tanks, there is no where to hide, thus leading to deaths. Bettas are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish for that reason.
> 
> :arrow: Sexing:
> Male Betta Splendens *generally* have longer fins than females, but there some cases in which that is incorrect. Male Plakats have short fins, for example. The only sure way to sex them is to look for a white, egg spot on a females underside near the anal fin. Here are some basic pictures of Betta Spendens to show that.
> 
> Male Betta (with labeled features):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Female Betta:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wild Betta. You can see the common household betta has changed and morphed a lot:
> 
> 
> :arrow: Classification and General Care:
> 
> Kingdom: Animalia
> Phylum: Chordata
> Subphylum: Vertebrata
> Class: Actinoptergii
> Order: Perciformes
> Suborder: Anabantoidei
> Family: Belontiidae
> Genus: Betta
> Species: Betta splendens
> 
> -Scientific Name: Betta spendens
> -Common Names: Betta, Siamese Fighting Fish
> -Care Level: Easy when under proper conditions (see needed tank supplies)
> -Max Size: 3 inches
> -pH level: 6.0-8.0
> -Temperature: Should not fall below 76, better yet 78 degrees. A good range is 76-86F. Bettas are tropical fish that need high temperatures. A heater is needed.
> -Life Span: 3-6 years.
> -Diet: In the wild, they feed off of mosquito larvae, mosquitos, other insects and their larvae, daphnia, and worms. In the home aquaria many bettas won’t eat flake food. If you choose to try offering flakes, please be sure they are specifically betta flakes and not tropical flakes. Tropical flake food does not provide the proper nutrition for a betta. Meaty foods should be their staple diet. Vegetables should be avoided. Peas are sometimes suggested for bettas, please don’t. A betta’s digestive tract is not designed to handle that kind of roughage in their diet, thus the reason it acts like a laxative. Feeding peas to a betta can severely damage their digestive tract and lead to permanent damage and early death.
> -Tank Region: All over, but mainly the Top.
> 
> 
> Here is a list of betta species. All have their own special needs, and are very exotic (Scientific name, then Common Name)
> 
> 
> 
> :arrow: Needed Tank Equipment:
> 
> -Tank of AT LEAST 2 Gallons. Some people believe in 5 gallons as minimum. Yes, a fish can live in small tanks, but they thrive in proper conditions in roomy areas.
> -Heater. heater, heater, heater. This is absolutely needed. The temperature in the tank needs to stay at least at 78 degrees. These are tropical fish, and become very lethargic if kept in cold water. A light will not be sufficient enough for heat. In the night, temperature can easily drop 8+ degrees, which can kill as fish. Room temperature is not enough either. Hydor makes a wonderful heater for small tanks of 2.5 gallons and less. It resembles a heating pad and they work wonderfully while not being overly expensive.
> -Hiding Spots: Hiding spots, such as caves, make bettas fell secure. This way, they can escape from light and rest. Make sure the hiding spots are not sharp, as bettas have very delicate fins.
> -Filter: This is actually not needed, but it helps. Bettas need a light filter with low flow. They should have very little water movement in a tank. The filter will also keep water clean.
> -Light: This helps when it gets dark. Most tanks come with some sort of light, but if not, that should be fine. Simple desk lamps or reading lamps can help give yoru betta the right amount of light.
> -Thermometer: This will help keep the temperature under control.
> -Liquid Test Kit: A liquid Test Kit will help keep you know your Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels. Ammonia and nitrite should always be 0, nitrates under 20ppm, and pH at a level of 6-7.5.
> -Access to Air. Betta spendens gets its oxygen from breathing air at the surface. That is the function of the labyrinth organ. If a betta can’t reach the surface for oxygen, it will drown. For this reason, while it is important to offer a well decorated environment, it is also important to make sure the betta has plenty of easy access to the surface of the water. The air temp above the water needs to be close to the temp of the water to avoid infections and shock.
> 
> Here is a good Betta Tank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It includes a heater, hood, live plants, and hiding spots. Perfect!
> 
> :arrow: Maintenance:
> 
> A betta needs some sort of maintenance, as would any other fish. They are not "magic fish" and can take care of themselves. Here is a list to insure the best care of your betta in which you, the owner, must provide.
> 
> 1) Weekly Water changes. A filter cannot take out everything in the water. Would you like to live in your own poop? This is why bettas need regular water changes.
> A betta tank should never need 100% water changes unless working with medications. Too drastic of a change in water params can cause illness and death to any fish. Bettas can withstand more than the average tropical fish, and 50% changes are good for them if done frequently enough. The smaller the tank size the more frequent the water changes should be done. Anything under 2.5 gallons should have a 50% change every other day. 2.5 and more should have 50% changes at least twice/wk. If a filter is running in the tank, 50% changes once/wk are usually plenty.
> 2) Testing Water. You need to keep an eye out for your bettas water paramaters. Water params are nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, pH, and water hardness. A good liquid test kit will help determine what is in the water. Ammonia and nitrite should be at 0, and nitrates under 20. The pH level should be between 6-7.5. If any levels seem wrong, do a water change to get clean water in the tank.[/quote
> 
> 
> 
> I wish the information that Cody shared, popped up with each post regarding Bettas. Perhaps there would be less posts regarding sick Bettas.


----------



## narklm

our betta lives in a one gallon tank no filter, or heater and we change his water once every 2 weeks we have had him or 5 years and he has done fine!


----------



## liebersnarfy

i just got my very first betta fish today so i'm happy to read something like this. thanks for posting!


----------



## indiandi

This was a great help. We have a 2.5gal tank that I prepped for about 3-4 weeks before my daughter picked out her new fish. We put him in a few days ago and so far so good. But she has yet to settle on a name. I'm so glad I was able to find this site before we jumped into the world of fish ownership.


----------



## Stormfin

Cody said:


> -*What kind of water do I use for my betta?*
> A reliable source of spring water can be used safely for a betta. The use of RO/DI water will require the addition of needed minerals & nutrients, as would distilled water. The purification process done with distilling makes distilled water the most pure, and thus the most dangerous for a fish. The process of RO and DI will also remove many minerals and nutrients the betta fish need for their organs to function properly. Tap water is usually the safest, but use of water conditioner is very important. Water conditioner will neutralize chlorine and chloramines, as well as toxic heavy metals that may be found in tap water sources. Testing tap water before using it for a betta is important. There are other, more complicated ways to make tap water safe. If you find you have high ammonia, nitrite, and/or nitrate in your tap water, and can’t find a good source of bottled water, then those other options should be considered. (other options include using a bucket, filter, and filter media to clean the water before using it in the betta tank)
> 
> would natural springs water work as a bottled water source?


----------



## CHERCAN

Cody said:


> :arrow: *General Betta Care and FAQ *
> Index:
> -Introduction
> -Background Information
> -Classification and General Care
> -Needed Tank Equipment
> -Maintenance
> -FAQ
> 
> 
> :arrow:  Introduction:
> 
> Bettas are one of the most popular fish kept. Most people think they need zero to little care, but that is not the case. Here is an important topic for everyone wanting to see the best conditions for their betta.
> 
> 
> :arrow: Background Info:
> Bettas come from tropical areas in Asia, from Thailand to Borneo, to Malaysia, to Cambodia. Here is a sticky for that needed information: http://www.fishforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=10494. Two male bettas should never be placed in the same tank unless it has a divider. In the wild, bettas do not fight to the death. They fight until there is a clear winner for territory, then the lesser male will go off and hide, or jump to another area to find safety (which is why bettas should always be in covered tanks, but still have access to air). In small tanks, there is no where to hide, thus leading to deaths. Bettas are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish for that reason.
> 
> :arrow:  Sexing:
> Male Betta Splendens *generally* have longer fins than females, but there some cases in which that is incorrect. Male Plakats have short fins, for example. The only sure way to sex them is to look for a white, egg spot on a females underside near the anal fin. Here are some basic pictures of Betta Spendens to show that.
> 
> Male Betta (with labeled features):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Female Betta:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wild Betta. You can see the common household betta has changed and morphed a lot:
> 
> 
> :arrow:  Classification and General Care:
> 
> Kingdom: Animalia
> Phylum: Chordata
> Subphylum: Vertebrata
> Class: Actinoptergii
> Order: Perciformes
> Suborder: Anabantoidei
> Family: Belontiidae
> Genus: Betta
> Species: Betta splendens
> 
> -Scientific Name: Betta spendens
> -Common Names: Betta, Siamese Fighting Fish
> -Care Level: Easy when under proper conditions (see needed tank supplies)
> -Max Size: 3 inches
> -pH level: 6.0-8.0
> -Temperature: Should not fall below 76, better yet 78 degrees. A good range is 76-86F. Bettas are tropical fish that need high temperatures. A heater is needed.
> -Life Span: 3-6 years.
> -Diet: In the wild, they feed off of mosquito larvae, mosquitos, other insects and their larvae, daphnia, and worms. In the home aquaria many bettas won’t eat flake food. If you choose to try offering flakes, please be sure they are specifically betta flakes and not tropical flakes. Tropical flake food does not provide the proper nutrition for a betta. Meaty foods should be their staple diet. Vegetables should be avoided. Peas are sometimes suggested for bettas, please don’t. A betta’s digestive tract is not designed to handle that kind of roughage in their diet, thus the reason it acts like a laxative. Feeding peas to a betta can severely damage their digestive tract and lead to permanent damage and early death.
> -Tank Region: All over, but mainly the Top.
> 
> 
> Here is a list of betta species. All have their own special needs, and are very exotic (Scientific name, then Common Name)
> 
> 
> 
> :arrow:  Needed Tank Equipment:
> 
> -Tank of AT LEAST 2 Gallons. Some people believe in 5 gallons as minimum. Yes, a fish can live in small tanks, but they thrive in proper conditions in roomy areas.
> -Heater. heater, heater, heater. This is absolutely needed. The temperature in the tank needs to stay at least at 78 degrees. These are tropical fish, and become very lethargic if kept in cold water. A light will not be sufficient enough for heat. In the night, temperature can easily drop 8+ degrees, which can kill as fish. Room temperature is not enough either. Hydor makes a wonderful heater for small tanks of 2.5 gallons and less. It resembles a heating pad and they work wonderfully while not being overly expensive.
> -Hiding Spots: Hiding spots, such as caves, make bettas fell secure. This way, they can escape from light and rest. Make sure the hiding spots are not sharp, as bettas have very delicate fins.
> -Filter: This is actually not needed, but it helps. Bettas need a light filter with low flow. They should have very little water movement in a tank. The filter will also keep water clean.
> -Light: This helps when it gets dark. Most tanks come with some sort of light, but if not, that should be fine. Simple desk lamps or reading lamps can help give yoru betta the right amount of light.
> -Thermometer: This will help keep the temperature under control.
> -Liquid Test Kit: A liquid Test Kit will help keep you know your Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels. Ammonia and nitrite should always be 0, nitrates under 20ppm, and pH at a level of 6-7.5.
> -Access to Air. Betta spendens gets its oxygen from breathing air at the surface. That is the function of the labyrinth organ. If a betta can’t reach the surface for oxygen, it will drown. For this reason, while it is important to offer a well decorated environment, it is also important to make sure the betta has plenty of easy access to the surface of the water. The air temp above the water needs to be close to the temp of the water to avoid infections and shock.
> 
> Here is a good Betta Tank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It includes a heater, hood, live plants, and hiding spots. Perfect!
> 
> :arrow:  Maintenance:
> 
> A betta needs some sort of maintenance, as would any other fish. They are not "magic fish" and can take care of themselves. Here is a list to insure the best care of your betta in which you, the owner, must provide.
> 
> 1) Weekly Water changes. A filter cannot take out everything in the water. Would you like to live in your own poop? This is why bettas need regular water changes.
> A betta tank should never need 100% water changes unless working with medications. Too drastic of a change in water params can cause illness and death to any fish. Bettas can withstand more than the average tropical fish, and 50% changes are good for them if done frequently enough. The smaller the tank size the more frequent the water changes should be done. Anything under 2.5 gallons should have a 50% change every other day. 2.5 and more should have 50% changes at least twice/wk. If a filter is running in the tank, 50% changes once/wk are usually plenty.
> 2) Testing Water. You need to keep an eye out for your bettas water paramaters. Water params are nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, pH, and water hardness. A good liquid test kit will help determine what is in the water. Ammonia and nitrite should be at 0, and nitrates under 20. The pH level should be between 6-7.5. If any levels seem wrong, do a water change to get clean water in the tank.


hello, im new to this site and i dont realy know how to post a question so that someone can answer, so i found you and hopefuly u can help....i had a beta fish for over a year i guess,i did everything right for him..i was wondering y did he die all of a sudden in the morning. im a smoker and his bowl is infront of me when i smoke but i blow the smoke away...could the smoke have caused him to die


----------



## tjlines

Cody said:


> :arrow: *General Betta Care and FAQ *
> Index:
> -Introduction
> -Background Information
> -Classification and General Care
> -Needed Tank Equipment
> -Maintenance
> -FAQ
> 
> 
> :arrow:  Introduction:
> 
> Bettas are one of the most popular fish kept. Most people think they need zero to little care, but that is not the case. Here is an important topic for everyone wanting to see the best conditions for their betta.
> 
> 
> :arrow: Background Info:
> Bettas come from tropical areas in Asia, from Thailand to Borneo, to Malaysia, to Cambodia. Here is a sticky for that needed information: http://www.fishforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=10494. Two male bettas should never be placed in the same tank unless it has a divider. In the wild, bettas do not fight to the death. They fight until there is a clear winner for territory, then the lesser male will go off and hide, or jump to another area to find safety (which is why bettas should always be in covered tanks, but still have access to air). In small tanks, there is no where to hide, thus leading to deaths. Bettas are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish for that reason.
> 
> :arrow:  Sexing:
> Male Betta Splendens *generally* have longer fins than females, but there some cases in which that is incorrect. Male Plakats have short fins, for example. The only sure way to sex them is to look for a white, egg spot on a females underside near the anal fin. Here are some basic pictures of Betta Spendens to show that.
> 
> Male Betta (with labeled features):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Female Betta:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wild Betta. You can see the common household betta has changed and morphed a lot:
> 
> 
> :arrow:  Classification and General Care:
> 
> Kingdom: Animalia
> Phylum: Chordata
> Subphylum: Vertebrata
> Class: Actinoptergii
> Order: Perciformes
> Suborder: Anabantoidei
> Family: Belontiidae
> Genus: Betta
> Species: Betta splendens
> 
> -Scientific Name: Betta spendens
> -Common Names: Betta, Siamese Fighting Fish
> -Care Level: Easy when under proper conditions (see needed tank supplies)
> -Max Size: 3 inches
> -pH level: 6.0-8.0
> -Temperature: Should not fall below 76, better yet 78 degrees. A good range is 76-86F. Bettas are tropical fish that need high temperatures. A heater is needed.
> -Life Span: 3-6 years.
> -Diet: In the wild, they feed off of mosquito larvae, mosquitos, other insects and their larvae, daphnia, and worms. In the home aquaria many bettas won’t eat flake food. If you choose to try offering flakes, please be sure they are specifically betta flakes and not tropical flakes. Tropical flake food does not provide the proper nutrition for a betta. Meaty foods should be their staple diet. Vegetables should be avoided. Peas are sometimes suggested for bettas, please don’t. A betta’s digestive tract is not designed to handle that kind of roughage in their diet, thus the reason it acts like a laxative. Feeding peas to a betta can severely damage their digestive tract and lead to permanent damage and early death.
> -Tank Region: All over, but mainly the Top.
> 
> 
> Here is a list of betta species. All have their own special needs, and are very exotic (Scientific name, then Common Name)
> 
> 
> 
> :arrow:  Needed Tank Equipment:
> 
> -Tank of AT LEAST 2 Gallons. Some people believe in 5 gallons as minimum. Yes, a fish can live in small tanks, but they thrive in proper conditions in roomy areas.
> -Heater. heater, heater, heater. This is absolutely needed. The temperature in the tank needs to stay at least at 78 degrees. These are tropical fish, and become very lethargic if kept in cold water. A light will not be sufficient enough for heat. In the night, temperature can easily drop 8+ degrees, which can kill as fish. Room temperature is not enough either. Hydor makes a wonderful heater for small tanks of 2.5 gallons and less. It resembles a heating pad and they work wonderfully while not being overly expensive.
> -Hiding Spots: Hiding spots, such as caves, make bettas fell secure. This way, they can escape from light and rest. Make sure the hiding spots are not sharp, as bettas have very delicate fins.
> -Filter: This is actually not needed, but it helps. Bettas need a light filter with low flow. They should have very little water movement in a tank. The filter will also keep water clean.
> -Light: This helps when it gets dark. Most tanks come with some sort of light, but if not, that should be fine. Simple desk lamps or reading lamps can help give yoru betta the right amount of light.
> -Thermometer: This will help keep the temperature under control.
> -Liquid Test Kit: A liquid Test Kit will help keep you know your Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels. Ammonia and nitrite should always be 0, nitrates under 20ppm, and pH at a level of 6-7.5.
> -Access to Air. Betta spendens gets its oxygen from breathing air at the surface. That is the function of the labyrinth organ. If a betta can’t reach the surface for oxygen, it will drown. For this reason, while it is important to offer a well decorated environment, it is also important to make sure the betta has plenty of easy access to the surface of the water. The air temp above the water needs to be close to the temp of the water to avoid infections and shock.
> 
> Here is a good Betta Tank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It includes a heater, hood, live plants, and hiding spots. Perfect!
> 
> :arrow:  Maintenance:
> 
> A betta needs some sort of maintenance, as would any other fish. They are not "magic fish" and can take care of themselves. Here is a list to insure the best care of your betta in which you, the owner, must provide.
> 
> 1) Weekly Water changes. A filter cannot take out everything in the water. Would you like to live in your own poop? This is why bettas need regular water changes.
> A betta tank should never need 100% water changes unless working with medications. Too drastic of a change in water params can cause illness and death to any fish. Bettas can withstand more than the average tropical fish, and 50% changes are good for them if done frequently enough. The smaller the tank size the more frequent the water changes should be done. Anything under 2.5 gallons should have a 50% change every other day. 2.5 and more should have 50% changes at least twice/wk. If a filter is running in the tank, 50% changes once/wk are usually plenty.
> 2) Testing Water. You need to keep an eye out for your bettas water paramaters. Water params are nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, pH, and water hardness. A good liquid test kit will help determine what is in the water. Ammonia and nitrite should be at 0, and nitrates under 20. The pH level should be between 6-7.5. If any levels seem wrong, do a water change to get clean water in the tank.


My boyfriend just got my daughter a betta and didnt give instructions. Now we split up. Should I use botttled water if I have well?


----------



## simplysarah

Hi! I'm a college student, and I'm rather interested in getting a betta. What do you all think is the best way a college student can take care of a betta? Please keep in mind I'm on a very limited budget!


----------



## Kitty Whiskers

*Wondering....*

It says an adult male Betta shouldn't change color like to duller colors, but my White Male Betta is starting to get red and black coloration to him and my Orange Betta is getting blue in the base of his fins. Is that ok or is there something wrong with that too? I thought it was because I started feeding them color enhancing food pellets, could that be a cause?


----------



## JaspersANGEL

Very helpful thread, this site has become my fav. 

I bought my first betta fish, a male named Jasper two months ago 
After I brought him back to life from a freezing cold betta bowl thing (he's the happiest now..and my life is brighter cause of him) he now lives in a 2.5 gallon tank with a filter and a thermometer, two plastic plants and an ornament.

Can anyone tell me what kind of heater or heating device I can use to heat a 2.5 gallon tank, it's getting colder out and my mom keeps the house cold, especially at night the temp. drops..
I want to keep my Jasper warm and cozy for the winter!:-D


----------



## CodeRed

I would suggest a Hydor Mini Heater, but that's it. I would keep an eye on it, too, as you can't adjust the temp on it. However, it's proved to be pretty durable for me, so it should work for you....
Welcome to the forum!! Just remember, ask any questions! We're all here to help you


----------



## JaspersANGEL

Thanks I will definitely look that up... right now the tank has a 15W hood light (to heat the top of the water) and I use my mom's work spot light (to heat the bottom of the tank), it seems to work..I keep the tank at 80 degrees F.

but im just worrying if the spot light blinds or stresses him out, I keep the spot light reasonably far from the tank and I move it around so it doesn't heat the same spot.. I've been doing this for a month and he's still thriving so i guess I just worry too much


----------



## welflash

thank you Cody
this post will help a lot of newbie like me


----------



## dh5daaaccfdd

Thats so confusing.


----------



## PrettyBetta1

I am curious to what everyone uses in their tanks. I only use tap water an AquaSafe (Tetra brand) I don't need to mess with any other chemicals do I? Like pHs stuff, and whatever else there is.


----------



## dramaqueen

No, all you need is water conditioner. I use Prime and Aquasafe.


----------



## yadriexis

only male bettas have long fins?


----------



## ninjaboyjeff

Beautiful post. Thank you so much.


----------



## pretzelsz

i didnt hav etime to read all the pages but i have one question that is al over the place. How much and how often should i feed my betta Fudd? i just got him yesterday and i dont know how much to feed him. also what fish is compatible with a male betta? and at petco they said that females are comunitty fish and i have swordtails and zebra danios(i heard mixed things abouth them) and would a female be suitible for that tank and also i read on the first page that bottom feeders are campatable is that true? and 1 mre... i have a 2 gallon tank and i am wondering should i get aheater or a filter(an anoying 360o one)( so a heater might be the only possible thing)


----------



## Dino

2 things. i heard that it is common for a blue betta to change to a shade of red. is this true? and also do betta make a "protective" layer on the top of the water.....it kinda looks like scum.


----------



## pretzelsz

ya i noticed something like that on the top of my tank but not alot what is it???


----------



## LisaC144

What type of filter does everyone use? I have a sponge filter right now but also looking into internal filters....


----------



## Jammers

When you say that the water change should never excede 100%, is it ok then to remove rocks and plants to clean them? I am just wondering because when I don't do full water changes there are still little floaties on the bottom or on the plants. I don't have a filter for my tank.


----------



## Enlistee

Has anyone had any experience with an Aqua One hang on filter i am getting it as a part of this deal http://www.southwestpets.com.au/Fish/Aquariums/SplishSplashAqKit.html (of course i wont be using the flake food for my betta , any thoughts on the filter or tank?


----------



## kswak

Thanks to ALL that have posted here. I have learned FAR MORE than I learned asking the local pet store, and trying to research online.. This site is a blessing! I'm just in shock that I had to lose my beautiful betta and marble angel fish because these places don't have the proper knowledge of what they sell! *grumbles*


----------



## airen

I work in a pet store, and am one of the ones responsible for our bettas. The blue water has multiple purposes. It is our conditioner, and has extra stress coat-type in it to compensate for customers constantly handling the fish and the stress this causes them. Which is also we there is a low level of meds in it. Stress lowers there immune system. We change our bettas' water a minumum of two times a week, more if we notice the fish isn't looking well. 
Your right... the blue isn't strictly neccesary. But you know at a glance if we're using the proper proportions to keep our fish as comfortable as we can while they wait on a permanent home.
I know there are bad stores out there, and it angers me as much as you. Maybe more so, since I take pride in keeping our fish. But the blue has a reason-- please don't assume all stores are evil and don't care.


----------



## dramaqueen

You're right. We shouldn't assume that all pet stores are the same. Some take very good care of the animals they sell. Pet stores need more people like you who take good care of the animals they are in charge of.


----------



## sdiamonds

This was fablous information for a new Betta owner, which I am. Many thanks.


----------



## Adelheidi

How much do I feed him and how often do I feed him? Currently, I just have Top Fin Colour Enhancing Beta Bits for him to eat. At least, until next week when I get paid again and I can get him other items. 

Also, how do I get him to reveal his personality to me? And how do I get him acclimated to me? How do I know how much 25% of the bowl is, for when I go to change the water out?


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## kelly528

Adelheidi said:


> How much do I feed him and how often do I feed him? Currently, I just have Top Fin Colour Enhancing Beta Bits for him to eat. At least, until next week when I get paid again and I can get him other items.
> 
> Also, how do I get him to reveal his personality to me? And how do I get him acclimated to me? How do I know how much 25% of the bowl is, for when I go to change the water out?


 
Make a new thread so more people can see your questions and reply without making this thread 10000832 posts long :lol:


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## CataclysmKitten

My Whisper filter doesn't do anything. Just bubbles at the bottom where the air is coming in, doesn't stir the water up. I don't know why. What's wrong with it?


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## bloo97

Here is some extra info i found...
www.bettafacts.com is the websight, i belive...?
BETTA FISH… MALE OR FEMALE?
​ 

Female Beta Fish ​ 
Male Beta Fish ​




When breeding beta fish or betta fish, it is important to learn to distinguish between the mature male and female beta fish. Beta male fish have much longer fins than female beta fish.
Male and female beta fish should not be kept together except for an hour or two in a fish bowl or small aquarium, while they spawn.
When changing the water in the tank you can use ordinary tap water but make sure to let the water age for a day or so to allow the chlorine dissipate. If you cannot drink your tap water then bottle water is recommended. 
Female Beta fish can be kept together in one aquarium. However, beta male fish will need to be kept in separate tanks or bowls. 
You can feed your male or female beta fish floating pellet food labeled for beta fish, or freeze dried blood worms, which are mosquito larvae. When you're ready to spawn your female beta fish, feed her the following foods each morning and each evening in the order listed: BettaMin, Freeze Dried Blood Worms, some live or frozen brine shrimp, and then a few live Black Worms.
When breeding beta fish, proper care and lots of food are also very important. After proper care and feeding the female beta will swell with egg, 
The proper food will also encourage the beta male fish to build a large bubble nest.
While breeding beta fish you should replace 20% of the water in the beta fish bowl or tank each day. This should stimulate the beta male fish to build bubble nests on the surface of the water.
Place your plumpest female beta fish in the tank or bowl with the beta male fish that has built the largest bubble net. 
The two beta fish will usually quarrel for a while. The beta male fish may tear the female's fins, she may nip him back, and then you should see the beta fish mating. 
It is important that you watch carefully to be sure that the beta male fish doesn't hurt the female too badly while the beta fish are mating.
Regardless of whether the beta fish do, or do not spawn, the female should be removed and put her back in her original aquarium or fish bowl.
The beta male fish will care for the eggs in the bubble nest. You will see him taking the eggs into his mouth where he cleans them with special natural chemicals in his mouth. Two days after spawning the chemicals in his mouth change and dissolve the outer layer of the eggs to release the fry.
It is very difficult to raise the beta fry in an aquarium or a bowl. We recommend placing the beta fry in a pond. The water temperature has to be 68 degrees F. or warmer. The pond was often 70 degrees F. and warmer during the summer..
MALE FEMALE 

*CARE*
To take care of beta fish make sure to feed your Beta Fish once a day. 
Beta Fish can eat live or frozen dried brine shrimp or blood worms. For beta food
To take care of beta fish make sure to clean your Beta Fish bowl to tank bowl once a week if it has no filtration. Keep around a 2 1/2 gallon plastic water jug to pretreat the water. 
It is a good idea to add some water conditioner. Water conditioners such as the Aqua pharmaceutical stress conditioner http://pets-warehouse.com/vpasp/shopaff.asp?affid=728&id=112958can help neutralize chlorine. 
Others can help neutralize ammonia as well as adjust and maintain the pH level in your Beta tank. This will ensure the water quality and reduce the stress on your Beta fish or Betta fish. 
To take care of beta fish make sure to keep the top of your Beta Fish bowl or tank covered. Beta Fish are jumpers and have been known to be found on the floor the next morning.
To take care of beta fish plant a live plant in the Beta Fish bowl or tank. To take care of beta fish make sure you do not place your Beta fish bowl or tank in direct sunlight, or near a cold vent or draft or in a cold room. Beta Fish need warn temperatures from 75 to 85 degrees F.
To take care of beta fish remember to make any water condition changes gradually.


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## bloo97

FEEDING
Beta fish are not big eaters but can be feed once or twice a day. They can be fed floating flake food, freeze dried blood worms, live black worms, or frozen brine shrimp. for beta food. 
It is important not to feed your Beta fish or Betta Fish to much live food as it has been known to cause problems.
A good, solid, frozen food or fish pellet with the occasional live treat is a sure way to go. We usually recommend feeding Beta fish 1 or 2 pellets each time. 
See our recommended Beta Pellets . 
http://pets-warehouse.com/vpasp/shopaff.asp?affid=728&id=109772http://pets-warehouse.com/vpasp/shopaff.asp?affid=728&id=109772If you notice the water in the tank is becoming cloudy then you are likely overfeeding your Beta fish.
For this you can use rich tropical flakes fish food when feeding Beta fish, or you can to purchase the “newly available” beta fish food. 
It is important to note when feeding Beta fish or Betta fish that if you are using a tank without a filtration system over feeding your fish will require more water changes as the uneaten food will quickly accumulate on the bottom of the bowl or tank. 

BETA FRIENDS
*Beta fish, Betta fish or Siamese fighting fish can also be kept with other fish. This fact is often overlooked do to the fighting spirit of the Beta. It is recommended that the other fish be smaller in size then the beta fish. Friends for the beta include: *

platies,swordtailscory catsneon tetrascardinal tetraswhite cloud mountain minnowzebra danioscherry barbsrasborasangelfish You can even add one or two female to a beta male fish since it is the males with the predominately aggressive attitude. 
PLANTS
*Beta Fish and Plants*

I would also recommend adding plants to your bowl or tank. Do not use any plants except natural water plants that are not toxic to the fish. Ensure the plants do not have any sharp tips on them. Artifical plants such as the ludwigia plant are perfect for Beta fish aquariums.
The best thing for you and your fish would be to get real live plants. Real ones are much more beautiful and help balance the water condition. Plants such as are great aquarium companions for your Beta fish. The best part is that they are not sharp at all and are very inexpensive, you may buy real plants at any pet store.
CHANGING WATER
When changing the water in the tank you can use ordinary tap water but make sure to let the water age for a day or so to allow the chlorine dissipate. If you cannot drink your tap water then bottle water is recommended. 
It is a good idea to add some water conditioner. Water conditioners such as the Aqua pharmaceutical stress conditioner can help neutralize chlorine. Others can help neutralize ammonia as well as adjust and maintain the pH level in your Beta tank. This will ensure the water quality and reduce the stress on your Beta fish or Betta fish. 
​It is also a good idea to let the Beta fish or Betta Fish remain inside the tank while the water is being changed. You can do this by dipping off a quarter of the water every day until it is gone and can be refilled. Pour the water slowly and ensure the water you add to the beta's bowl or tank is of the same temperature as the water removed. (usually room temp). 
*New Tanks and Beta Fish *

New Tanks' often have a Break-in Period. 
When you decorate your new tank and add the water the filter is not ready for a full tank of fish yet. The filter is running and moving the water and cleaning out dirt. 
An aquarium filter such as the will remove the larger visible stuff and will also remove the dissolved fish waste that turns into ammonia in the water. However, in order for your fish to remain healthy special bacteria must grow in the filter system and on the particles of gravel in the bottom of your tank. This process occurs even on a limited scale in little fish bowls that have no filter in them. 
It is best to start off with one or two other fish in a tank for the first 6-8 weeks. The needed bacteria cannot grow without fish in the tank. 
Avoid changing the filter pads during break-in. This removes the bacterial colonies that are essential to a balanced aquarium. You can rinse the filter pad out in a container of aquarium water. This will preserve most of the bacteria colonies while still allowing your filter to flow freely. 
After about 6-8 weeks you can keep the other fish and add your Beta, or remove them first. This process will undoubtedly help your Beta fish have a longer, healthier, and happier life. Most Betas can llive for 2 to 3 years in a prpperly cared for fish bowl or tank.


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## bloo97

Q & A
*Q:** How can I tell the difference between male and female beta fish?**A: *The male beta is the one with longer flowing fins which he flares in thepresence of most other fish. The male also has a longer and larger overall bodyThe female is usually smaller in size then the male and much less aggressive.As well, all female beta fish have a small white dot on their stomach directlybehind their ventral fins, or the shorter fins on their stomachs. *Q:** What temperature should I keep my beta fish's water?**A: *A good mean temperature for beta fish seems to be 78 degrees F. However anything in the range of 75-85 degrees should be fine. *Q: **How often does my beta fish water need changing?**A:* Anything smaller then a one gallon tank should be changed twice a week.Anything larger should be changed every week to week and a half. If you are using a filer then change the entire water every 3-4 weeks. *Q:** How much space does a beta fish need?**A:* A single beta fish, alone in a tank will need a recommended half-gallon tank. *Q:** What should I do if my beta won't eat?**A:* When you first buy a beta fish it is normal for them not to eat. After a few days theyshould settle down and begin eating. often when the beta does eat he will take the food then spit if out. This is often done to soften up the food. If the beta is still not eating thentry crushing the pellets into smaller pieces, finally try different foods. Your beta will eventually eat one kind.  *Q:** What should I feed my beta fish?**A:* BettaMin Floating Flake Food and Delecta Freeze Dried Blood Worms are available in most pet stores and Wal-Mart Stores. We alsofeed the fish in our fish bowls a few live Black Worms three days a week andoccasionally some live or frozen brine shrimp. A little bit of live food isvery good, but too much seems to cause problems. this combined with a fewBlack Worms every second or third day is never a bad idea. *Q:** How long do beta fish live?**A:* Beta fish can live for 2 to 3 years in a tank or fish bowl. for Our Selection of Beta fish Bowls and Tanks.*Q**: What is the difference in a beta fish and Siamese fighting fish?**A:* There is no difference, they are generally interchangeable. However,Siamese fighting fish usually refers to the male beta fish. *Q:** How much does a beta fish cost?**A: *Beta fish can range in price anywhere form $1.99 to over $1000 dependingOn the rarity of the colors and tail.  *Q: What colors are Beta Fish?**A:* Beta fish come in many colors and variations including but not limited toWhite, yellow, orange, red, green, royal blue, steel blue, black, pastel, and Cellophane.  *Q:* *What should I look for when buying a beta fish?**A:* A healthy beta fish has regularly shaped fins, a straight spine, no spots, Tears in the fins, or smooth scales. With a beta fish, bigger is not necessarily Better. Click Here for our selection of Beta Fish *Q:** Why does my beta flare his fins and gills?**A:* Male beta fish will flare in order to intimidate other fish especially when they feel threatened. It is not uncommon for beta fish to do this when shown their own reflections. ANATOMY *PICS*http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/01.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/02.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/03.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/04.gif​​ 




http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/06.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/07.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/09.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/10.gif​ 
http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/11.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/12.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/13.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/14.gif​ 
http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/16.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/17.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/18.gif​http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/19.gif​ 
http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/15.gif
http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/08.gif
http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/15.gif
http://www.betafacts.com/images/big/20.gif
​Sorry about the length...


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## bloo97

Sorry about the typo problems...
It was a Word document.


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## bloo97

Whew...
That is alot!!


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## veronicamarae

I wish I would have known this before I got three Betta's. One of my females is now missing a fin (I call her nemo) with any luck it will grow back. 

I guess I'm going to the pet store tomorrow to get another tank with a heater. Will my two females be okay together in a 2 gallon tank?


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## Betta Slave

No, Two females will fight. You need to get 3 or more females (and in a two gallon tank I think would be overstocking.) Move up to a five or ten gallon for three or more females if you can.
Good luck with them, hope Nemo gets better.


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## veronicamarae

Thanks Betta Slave,

I don't know what I'm going to do. The pet store sucks! She said she had tons of betta's and she knew a lot about them. I guess that wasn't true.

Thanks again.


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## Betta Slave

No problem, glad I could help.
I generally don't listen to pet stores, the employees I come across have no idea what they're talking about. It bugs me 
When you can, post pics of your bettas, we'd love to see them!


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## veronicamarae

Now that my male betta is alone he looks completely deflated. I'll upload pics as soon as I can.


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## misschris05

*My feamle betta floats what should I do?*

My female betta floats to the top with her tail end up. I was told she might have a blatter infection. She also is in a tank with a male betta and im working on switching them into different tanks. Could her fins cause her to swim weird? Any suggestions? She just hides under the bridge most of the time.


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## veronicamarae

Put her in a cup and get her away from the male betta. I'm not an expert but my betta females nemo and cotton are torn up. Last night nemo could barely swim. be careful


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## Sarada

Geeze I just bought a betta for my 3yr old because I'm a bad fish mom and thought they were supposed to be easy :S

His 'tank' will probably need to be upgraded and I will have to get a heater...I thought he was doing so well, he seems so happy. His color even seems to have improved since we got him home. My son named him Bob.


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## Trouble

I was told that the blue stuff in the water is "de-stressor" to make the transition and everything easier for the fish. It probably is for disease prevention as well.


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## dbob87

Is a one gallon tank big enough? Will their fins grow to be big and pretty and that size of a tank?? Its a starter one, but the filter never worked. But after readin this I feel alot better about keepin my Betta in good health. I just want to make sure what I have is enough.


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## truthequalslies

Trouble said:


> I was told that the blue stuff in the water is "de-stressor" to make the transition and everything easier for the fish. It probably is for disease prevention as well.


the blue stuff is methyleen blue and your correct but IMO its best not to medicate a fish unless its actually sick and you have the proper diagnosis (it mostly just adds stress (wich may create a health issue)


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## SkylerBetta

So I'm a new betta owner and I "rescued" my betta(he looked half dead, was by far the smallest one, he wasn't eating and was a faded blue/gray) last week from a small bowl in a store about 3" squared. 

Right now he's in a 3 gal tank with one large fake plant one bamboo stalk (leaves removed as I read that they have a nasty habit of rotting) a smooth shell for hiding and a smooth rock for resting.

He's now after one week noticably larger, eating a full pinch of food (betta flakes ground up a little, he would spit larger flakes back out, with the first three ingrediants being meat) and he's a now a Bright sky blue (named him Skyler lol) and he is always on the move except at night time when he rests in his shell hide-out or on his rock. I currently do NOT have a heater but after reading this am about to go get one (suggestions?) 

I just want to know am I doing anything right? and more importantly am I doing anything *wrong*? I do make sure I do a 50% water change twice a week so apparently I'm good there, and when I clean it's only with hot water NO SOAP.

Why are betta's caged? It's so unfair! They're prettier than any other fish too!


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## BeautifulBettaFish

such good info thanks!


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## Kitty88

I just read through the thread and I don't think I missed this anywhere...I'm an ultra newb to fish who kinda had a betta foisted upon me. How many drops of Nutrafin water conditioner should I use for his water? Small measurement ratios would be good since he's staying in the tank he came in for another two days until his five gallon is ready.


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## Sarada

How small is his current container?


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## Kitty88

About half a gallon, but he's actually going to move into his five gallon very soon, I just want to let the filter run beforeputting him in. Should I get the nutrafin tropical water conditioner instead of the betta plus conditioner? It seems silly to use capfuls and capfuls of this conditioner instead of a drop per gallon.


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## Sarada

I'm sure both work. Where I live supplies are limited, I have a choice between nutrafin and nutrafin.


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## Wolfheart96

My new Betta Red (althogh he is mostly purple) is loseing color and im very worred about him plz help


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## PwnCho

*Thank you*

I've joined this site recently, as I was concerned about the well-being of my first beta fish, Mistuhr Fishy (unimaginative name, I know, my apologies). Many sites I've checked told me to keep the water at "room temperature", but unfortunately did not specify a temperature range - some rooms may be a bit warmer/colder than others and I wasn't sure of what room temperature actually was besides being a temperature in a room. ^^; I've recently noticed that his tail is curling at the tip and is a little frayed/torn looking, hopefully by removing the cloth plant it won't get worse and will be back to its usual state. :3 Thanks for the useful info!


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## RandomFish

PwnCho said:


> I've joined this site recently, as I was concerned about the well-being of my first beta fish, Mistuhr Fishy (unimaginative name, I know, my apologies). Many sites I've checked told me to keep the water at "room temperature", but unfortunately did not specify a temperature range - some rooms may be a bit warmer/colder than others and I wasn't sure of what room temperature actually was besides being a temperature in a room. ^^; I've recently noticed that his tail is curling at the tip and is a little frayed/torn looking, hopefully by removing the cloth plant it won't get worse and will be back to its usual state. :3 Thanks for the useful info!


LOL! That's such a cute name. My first betta was named Fishie.

"Room temperature" is probably about 76 degrees, but the optimal temperature for bettas is about 78-82 degrees. It's important to keep the temperature of the water as stable as possible.

I'm not sure what's up with his tail so hopefully someone else can help you with that. If you decide to medicate him, please use Bettafix rather than Melafix because Melafix is dangerous to anabantoids like bettas.


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## alx

*thanks for the usefull post*

My girl and i just got a betta his name is Zep, we had him a 1/2 gallon tank for a week but decided to change him to a 2.5 gal tank and are trying to make his life a happy life... have been searching day and night about betta info but information available has too much contrast so i decided to register and join this community.

thanks for that sticky.. its great

All the best
alx


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## BettiBetta

*Hello, I'm new here and I want to also say thank you from the bottom of my heart for posting this very informative betta care sticky! I am a new betta owner and I lOVE them! I wanted a pet and so I got a bowl and betta and food from the pet store and he wouldn't eat. I was so frustratd and went back tothe store and asked for help and all they said was "If he dies bring him back for a refund!" Pet shop people know next to nothing about bettas! so glad I found this forum!!!!*


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## dramaqueen

We're glad to have you! Welcome!


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## frogipoi

Everyone! Don't you think Aurora is cute? Check his poll.


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## reptileboy

im confused. what is a sorority with females?


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## dramaqueen

A sorority is a group of female bettas. You can house female bettas together under the right conditions. They have to be monitored closely for a while because females can be as aggressive as males.


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## kayos

*fish memory*

How long is a fishes memory? Can they be trained?:wave:


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## scryinginyou13

all this was very helpful to me, but i am worried as to why the end of my male bettas fins are curling a bit. what do i do?


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## Sarada

Have you been conditioning the water and letting it sit long enough?


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## scryinginyou13

well yes... but how long should I be waiting?? and i guess i should mention that its not his whole fin, just the very tips.


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## kuklachica

How hard is your water? sometimes hard water will cause this. 

Also, if he ever had fin damage, and it is growing back now, sometimes the new growth will do this. Is the curling part clearish?


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## BettaGirl290

umm i REALLY need help breeding my bettas, I am a beginner any tips or help? 









P.S. idk wht we talking bout'


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## scryinginyou13

not so much, its still red like the rest of him, but i've noticed that some of the ends of his fins are turning white, he had one small spot and now it seems to be happening even more. its obviously permanent-i just want to make sure that its not going to hurt him or something. I use tap water and the.... tetra aqua treatment, and le tit sit for about 5 mins.


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## Sarada

white spots, can you post a picture?


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## scryinginyou13

well not right at this moment, but maybe later on today- but its not really spots, just the tips of some of his fins, also- i cleaned his water and all the day before yesterday and i woke up this morning and there was a thin film over part of the water.. what could that be? now i dont have a ph test kit- and i wont till next week.


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## MonochromeTyde

Hello everyone! I've found this thread to be very helpful, but I have a question. I'll be getting my 10 gallon from my mom's house today to use for my two bettas, but do I need to cycle it first? I've read around and asked, and I've seen some people don't bother, while other people say your fish will die if you don't. So I'm still very confused on it all.
Thanks!


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## Sarada

You should to make life easier on yourself because it will require less maintenance in the long run.


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## Kokonoko

Was wondering, the apple snail in my tank is leaving behind quit a bit of waste ont he glass surfaces of the tank (Some sort of sticky glue like waste). Is there something specific I can use to clean the inside of the tank glass?


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## MonochromeTyde

Thanks for the help, but I ended up opting out on the 10 gallon and went with two 2.5s instead. ^^; They're quite nice actually, and my fish are way more calm now.

Kokonoko, I've seen tank glass cleaner at the pet store before, you may try that. ^^


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## BettaGirl290

MY BETTA HAS A HUGE EYE BALL HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! its really, really,REALLY weird, she was fine earlier on but know her eye is all wacky.:blueworry:


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## Sarada

Quarantine...epsom salt, daily 100% water changes for ten days. Your Betta probably has pop eye.


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## BettaGirl290

Sarada said:


> Quarantine...epsom salt, daily 100% water changes for ten days. Your Betta probably has pop eye.


 how many doses? :-(


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## sebamd

BettaGirl290 said:


> how many doses? :-(


From http://www.bettatalk.com/betta_diseases.htm :

*DISEASE: POPEYE*








this betta's eye has more than doubled in size
*GENERAL INFO:* 
If you always keep your betta’s water very clean, he is not very likely to get Popeye. Popeye is a bacterial infection usually caused by poor water condition (in other words filthy water because you were too darn lazy to get off the couch and attend to your betta!!!). but popeye can also be the tip of the iceberg, the external sign that something inside Mr. Betta is going very wrong. For example, tuberculosis will sometimes result in popeye. In that case, the popeye may not be curable or even if it gets better the fish will die (because tuberculosis is not curable and always kills its host). In short the fish will have died, not of the popeye itself, but because of the more serious disease that triggered it.

*SYMPTOMS:* 
One or both of Mr. Betta’s eyes start bulging out. In about 2 to 7 days the eye might look so grotesque you will be afraid to look at your betta. Casimodo on a bad day will look more attractive then your betta at that point!! Please do not destroy your betta! In many cases, the bettas make a full recovery from it and look normal again, as if nothing had happened. Only some of the popeye cases are caused by the terminal diseases mentioned above and will result in your betta dying. The rest will heal nicely if caught early and treated aggressively (see below). During outbreak, betta may be less active, may stop eating.
 *TREATMENT:* 
As I said, popeye is usually not fatal and Mr. Betta will often fully recover. On occasion he may lose an eye. But if you catch it right away, he should be fine. Immediately do a full water change. Keep his water very clean, changing it every third day. After putting him in clean water, add the antibiotic Ampicillin to his water. This medication usually comes in capsules. A full capsule usually treats 10 gal of water._*( That is because they had a link to a First Aid Kit they sell, on the petstore they might have a different dossage) *_So for a 1/2 gallon of water, open the capsule and take the right proportion of powder and sprinkle on jar water. You may steer gently with a disposable plastic spoon. This is a white powder and will not affect the color of the water. Do not overmedicate! Once Betta’s eyes are back to normal, keep treating for one more week (just to be sure) and then stop the medication. And keep his water clean from now on darn it!!


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## ANHEL123

*Betta care*



twistersmom said:


> im glad you made this post. I am now in the process of setting my 5gal tank back up to put a betta in. All the great people in the forum talked me into it. Never had a betta, and they made me feel i was missing out on something great. I do have a question. Why are they sometimes kept in blue water at the stores?


i have 5 betta at home and 3 betta at the dr off . Then i know about 12 people has about 2-3 bettas,so we have a lot of bettas.

I want to tell u guys betta doesn't need filters. Like i say me and people i know all togeter have about approx 45 bettas none of them have filters. Same betta about 2.5 years old. 

One time i went to pet stere and the girl who work there had betta for 3.5 y. She don't have filter,she don't change it every 7 to 10 days for 1 gal of woter,and the temperature in the tank about 72 degrees.

My 2 betta at home about 2.5 y old and rest of them about 9 months old. In the summer i put them in 1 gal. And 0.5 g tank. In the winter i put them in 2.5 gal. My house cold in the winter so i put hitters. But i always put 72 degrees. The office i have bettas for about 2 or 2.5 y in 0.5 g . The office closed on saturday thru mond and dr put temperature in the winter 69 degree. Fish live there for so long. I stressing hitters because for some people it difficult to have hitter if betta in the small tank.also i in the winter i am paranoid i check my bettas all the time because one time the hitter malfunctioned. The temperature in one of my betta dropped to 58 degree. Betta was not moving on the bottom of tank in the morning then when i came from work at 5 p.m. Fish was like nothing happened to him 

 water change

also when u change water too often u stressing them out. I change my 2.5 gal every approx 10-14 days.and i always leave a portion of their original water. I try to take it from the top before all dirt from bottom goes up. My betta at dr office 2.5 y ald approx and i change them every 7 days. I think it bad idea to change portion of the water every other day.u stressing betta .

It's funny i have girl working with me she has betta on her desk in 1 gal tank. I always scream at her it's ameizing she change her betta every 3 wk which i always think her fish will get sick her betta about 1 y old. I think her betta has good immunity


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## Finatic

I think you should because if you go on vacation or whatnot, then the ammonia will quickly build up and poison them. If you have the beneficial bacteria in your tank, then they can convert it into nitrate, which is much less toxic for your fish.


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## Finatic

woops guess I answered this question late XD


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## ANHEL123

*Pop eye*

If sebamb advice don't helped try the medication i know.it was very successful when i treated my betta from different disease,but this medication recommended for pop eye too.

Medications: tetracycline mix togeter with fungus eliminator by gangle. i also add aquarium salt.

tetracycline treats gram positive and gram negative bacteria.
fungus eliminator clears serious fungus and bacteria fast -an effective anti-protozoan,antibacterial treatment that is highly effective against fungus,grey slime,fin and tail rot,cloudy eye .

this mix of those medications ameizing.i treat fin rot about 1.2 y ago and fish still alive. Ilso one of my co worker betta had columnaris and he recovered. We treat him about 9 mo ago.

Also one time we brought betta from the store and he didn't eat any of the food,he lay on the bottom of tank or just hid under his plant.it lasted about 7 days then we decided to try those mix and fish recovered. It was about 4-5 months.


----------



## luv2run21

im so excited to get my first betta i cant wait


----------



## UrsMyrick

I have a question for you regarding using RODI water. I have started a new 3 gal planted freshwater tank using RODI water and was wondering what I would need to re-add as far as minerals were concerned. Should I just start over using tap water with conditioner in it? I am leaning towards a Betta and want it to be as healthy and happy as possible. 

Also I've read that with a planted tank you can just go ahead and add fish without waiting for your tank to cycle. My PH is 6.4, Ammonia is still at a 4.0 (down from an 8.0), nitrates and nitrites are at zero. I've been cycling for 7 days using food only for the fishless cycling. So far I have not noticed a jump in Nitrates or Nitrites My tank temp varies from 77 to 82 degrees F. I have a corner power jet which has adjustable output, a bubble wand in the back, and a DIY C02 fermenter.


----------



## Stud Stallion

You spoke about different types of food. are the foods mentioned Live or Dried?


----------



## vanish3d

Hi guys! i just signed up, abit about my tank.

25litres, 25watt heater, filter, light, one male betta. Plants & 1 ornament,
im just wondering, sorry for the quesitons but im just a beginner.
currently my tank temp is at 24degrees with my heater set at 26degrees., im worried this may be abit to low for my fish but my heater only goes up by twos and the next set temp is 28degrees, would you recomend the higher temp or should i just leave my heater at 26degrees. the tank is in my bedroom and my room is cold in winter. should i compensate heat


----------



## vanish3d

also the fish seems very active stays on top of tank n goes down bottom sometimes haha any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## StacyK

I've just set up my 3g Betta tank at work! Going to let it cycle for a couple of weeks then I'll be going to the store to pick out my little fishy. Here are my tank specifics, its a 9.5 x 11.5 cylindrical tank with and undergravel air filtration system (perfect for the slow water movements the fish like). I used decorative stone as the gravel base, have 2 silk plants and 2 round leafed plastic plants, a 7.5W heater under the gravel. I had a betta years ago who lived for about 3 years. He was a fun little fish. :O) I'm very excited to have one at work to watch when I need eye breaks from the computer monitor. :O)


----------



## BettaBoy84

I have an UGF too stacyK, there great, quiet and simple...

Good luck on the new tank, you should post a pic of ur new betta when you get it all set up!

BETTA BOY


----------



## beta beta

Im getting my FIRST beta Im freking out PLEASE help me im desperet this is in 1 week



from betta betta


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## beta beta

ps my mom has an oscar i visit on weekends should i be able to put my betta in or will 1 eat the other


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## Lion Mom

beta beta said:


> ps my mom has an oscar i visit on weekends should i be able to put my betta in or will 1 eat the other


Do NOT put your Betta in with an Oscar - he will be a tasty little snack for Oscar!!! :evil:


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## RoyalBlue

Thanks for the great guide cody, this is very informative. =]


----------



## Ourfishies

*air pump?*

Do Bettas benefit from an air pump and air stone?


----------



## Posaune

I've got a question about sororities. How big of a tank would you need per betta and to have a good sorority? And is it ok to have one male with them? Or would that just stress them out?


----------



## Lion Mom

I personally like having a 20 gal. tank for the girls - and at LEAST 2 gals. per fish, but I really feel it should be understocked by one or two. I know some members have luck with a 10 gal. "Diva" tank, but I sincerely feel a 20 gal. is better. JMO.

NO MALE in with the girls - it would NOT end well!!! 

Hope that helps & good luck!


----------



## Posaune

That helps a lot, thanks


----------



## Lion Mom

You're more than welcome!


----------



## dramaqueen

Please post questions in the appropriate forum so more people will see it and be able to respond. Thank you.


----------



## Posaune

Well, "General Betta Care" is pretty all-encompassing. My question is indeed one about general betta care. It was also answered very well and quickly.


----------



## prettyiinpiink

thnx for the post* =] i needed this*


----------



## BeFree

Thanks a ton for the information. Very helpful! I was also under the impression that Betta's sat in a tiny bowl and ate a few times a week, and that water changing is only necessary every once in a while. This lack of knowledge is thanks to the 'experts' at pet stores.


----------



## bto

The recommendation that "under 2.5 gallons should have a 50% change every other day" is simply not true. It's excessive and can stress the fish! As a long-time Betta owner (30 years), my little guys and gals live on average 3-4 years (longest was 5), they're always very happy and active, they live in 2 liter bowls, and I change their water once a week. They DON"T NEED filters and do very well in your typical fishbowl.

I occasionally see/hear these type of recommendations and I cannot understand why they continue to be perpetuated. Bettas are not like other fish and should not be cared for like other fish. More is not always better and in the case of Bettas more can be harmful.


----------



## BettaBoy84

Wow. have not read this yet...very interesting!


----------



## bloo97

bto said:


> The recommendation that "under 2.5 gallons should have a 50% change every other day" is simply not true. It's excessive and can stress the fish! As a long-time Betta owner (30 years), my little guys and gals live on average 3-4 years (longest was 5), they're always very happy and active, they live in 2 liter bowls, and I change their water once a week. They DON"T NEED filters and do very well in your typical fishbowl.
> 
> I occasionally see/hear these type of recommendations and I cannot understand why they continue to be perpetuated. Bettas are not like other fish and should not be cared for like other fish. More is not always better and in the case of Bettas more can be harmful.


 I guess it's all in expirience.


----------



## wallywestisthebest333

bto said:


> The recommendation that "under 2.5 gallons should have a 50% change every other day" is simply not true. It's excessive and can stress the fish! As a long-time Betta owner (30 years), my little guys and gals live on average 3-4 years (longest was 5), they're always very happy and active, they live in 2 liter bowls, and I change their water once a week. They DON"T NEED filters and do very well in your typical fishbowl.
> 
> I occasionally see/hear these type of recommendations and I cannot understand why they continue to be perpetuated. Bettas are not like other fish and should not be cared for like other fish. More is not always better and in the case of Bettas more can be harmful.


How are your tanks set up? Any live plants?


----------



## Alex09

bto said:


> The recommendation that "under 2.5 gallons should have a 50% change every other day" is simply not true. It's excessive and can stress the fish! As a long-time Betta owner (30 years), my little guys and gals live on average 3-4 years (longest was 5), they're always very happy and active, they live in 2 liter bowls, and I change their water once a week. They DON"T NEED filters and do very well in your typical fishbowl.
> 
> I occasionally see/hear these type of recommendations and I cannot understand why they continue to be perpetuated. Bettas are not like other fish and should not be cared for like other fish. More is not always better and in the case of Bettas more can be harmful.


Those are the typical pet store instructions and most people who do that have their fish die in a few months. I know I did. Lost 3 or 4 fish that way a few years back :roll: And alot can change in 30 years.


----------



## wallywestisthebest333

bto said:


> The recommendation that "under 2.5 gallons should have a 50% change every other day" is simply not true. It's excessive and can stress the fish! As a long-time Betta owner (30 years), my little guys and gals live on average 3-4 years (longest was 5), they're always very happy and active, they live in 2 liter bowls, and I change their water once a week. They DON"T NEED filters and do very well in your typical fishbowl.
> 
> I occasionally see/hear these type of recommendations and I cannot understand why they continue to be perpetuated. Bettas are not like other fish and should not be cared for like other fish. More is not always better and in the case of Bettas more can be harmful.


Idk when they'll respond so I thought I'd post my two cents. (since I'm getting off to concentrate on work)

The only way a set up like this would work is if there was a lot of fast-growing floating plants in there and maybe a shoot or two of a fast growing stem plant. :/

And the set-up got direct sunlight a few hours every day.

Even then the ammonia would build up more quickly at the beginning before ebbing off.

If you have an un-planted bowl or enclosure *you still need to do every other day 50-100% changes.*


----------



## Canuck Fins

I haven't got my tank yet although I'm leaning toward a 5g. I'm still figuring all this out. I have 2 questions though. 

* Once a tank is cycled and I have a fish, how often do I need to test my betta's water?

* I would like to try a planted tank, but I don't know how many plants I will need. Is there a guideline on this?


----------



## bto

I'll repeat. I've cared for bettas for over 30 years. My current betta is 4 years old. I haven't changed my method of care over the years. It's a simple bowl, aquarium gravel, no live plants, a small shell, and weekly water change - that's it. He gets a lot of attention, is always excited when we talk with him, i.e., he thinks he's getting food. All my fish over the years have been happy, healthy, and live long.

Sorry, but what you deem as impossible or ill-advised just isn't true. More power to those of you who go to the nth degree for your bettas. Pet shops love you! It's just not necessary to keep a betta in a 5 + gallon tank with filtration, exotic plants, and 50% water changes every other day.


----------



## NixieTheAwesomeFish

Thanks for posting, that really helped me out alot.  I just got my betta fish from my sister, and I have never had one before, so I was really glad to find this. I just have one question... I don't have a heater for my betta, but I keep the room her tank is in really warm. Is that okay? I don't want her to freeze, but I don't think I will be able to get a heater any time soon.


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## JaspersANGEL

If u keep the room really warm, that should be ok for now. U may also shine a desk lamp on the tank to warm up the water, but we really recommend a heater.

So u might wanna save for one, they are not that expensive and plays a huge part in ur Betta's health so in the end it's worth it.


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## combray

A lot of very helpful information. We've had our betta about 2 months now and he is hands down my favorite fish. What a personality they have!


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## c1n7h14

Twistersmom said:


> Im glad you made this post. I am now in the process of setting my 5gal tank back up to put a Betta in. All the great people in the forum talked me into it. Never had a Betta, and they made me feel I was missing out on something great. I do have a question. Why are they sometimes kept in blue water at the stores?


 
I work at Petsmart and the "blue stuff" we put in is a certain type of water conditioner specifically for the betas. I assume other pets stores do the same too.
Water conditioner is used to ease stress in a fish. I guess the Bettas need more conditioning since they're in such small containers, which are also usually cold. :/


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## Uzuma

*Heeelp*

I just got my first betta but i think the water is to cold... 

im completaly new at fish keeping

anyone know of a really small heater for a MiniBow 1? http://www.aqueonproducts.com/products/mini-bow-desktop-aquarium-kit-1.htm


thats him bottom left of tank floor 

any suggestions are very welcome thanks!!!! :-D


----------



## bettasforsale

Cool! Thank you for this information! I wasn't expecting to see this here.


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## bettamaniac

that wild betta is actually a betta rubra not a wild betta splendens


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## BettasForever

This is a great sticky. I just got my betta yesterday at 8pm and he's doing absolutely great! He's swimming, he's happy and of course, thanks to your guide, he's healthy.


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## Kpoo97

I have a question.

I read on there that it says I have to have a 2 gallon or more. I saw a kit for a 2.5 gal at Petsmart for $25. They had a 1 gal for $20, and my mom and sister INSISTED I got the cheaper one, even though it was my money I was spending. I don't know if I kept the recipt, but if I did, should I take the kit back? (I didn't open the conditioner or the food). I used the Filter cartridge, though. But does that matter? What should I do?


----------



## BettasForever

Uzuma said:


> I just got my first betta but i think the water is to cold...
> 
> im completaly new at fish keeping
> 
> anyone know of a really small heater for a MiniBow 1? http://www.aqueonproducts.com/products/mini-bow-desktop-aquarium-kit-1.htm
> 
> 
> thats him bottom left of tank floor
> 
> any suggestions are very welcome thanks!!!! :-D



Your fish is awesome! I have the same green plant as you.  (the one by your fish)


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## Nova

i think its 2 hide the waste and make it less noticable (bcuz i didnt notice till i was pouring the water out) maybe it has chemicals in it 2 keep the bettas happy. or just 4 looks


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## catappa leaves

Hi Members,

Just want to let you people know that I have put-up some very useful information about Betta Fish keeping and caring in my site for everyone to access. 

It is titled Aquarium Resources under Category. I have two topic there currently, that is Betta Fish Care and The Aquarium Secret.

Hope it will be useful and helpful to your hobby

Sign !


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## billwneill

*blue water*

i was told from petsmart, when i got my beta, that the blue water is to keep the fish from seeing each other and trying to fight. don't know if it is true or not, but it is what i was told when i asked. i don't like how they are kept in cups though. my beta is happy, even though it is only a 1 gallon tank, he is not complaining much


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## turtle10

billwneill said:


> i was told from petsmart, when i got my beta, that the blue water is to keep the fish from seeing each other and trying to fight. don't know if it is true or not, but it is what i was told when i asked. i don't like how they are kept in cups though. my beta is happy, even though it is only a 1 gallon tank, he is not complaining much


That doesn't make any sense, why would they say that? The bettas can completely see through the blue, and the blue is medicine.

Petsmart does it again :roll:


----------



## jesstanner

What (if any) different needs do Giant bettas need? I understand that they probably need more room, and more food but what is your recommendation?


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## PewPewPew

jesstanner said:


> What (if any) different needs do Giant bettas need? I understand that they probably need more room, and more food but what is your recommendation?


They do* need more space, yeah..We usually recommend 2.5 gal minimum for normal size, so that'd be about 4-5 gallons for him. Very very minimum for a normal size is 1 gallon, so again, around 2.5-3.

Id give him at least an extra pellet than a usual fish a day.

Other than that, that's it!


----------



## Arashi Takamine

With New Life Spectrum small fish formula how much to give? Instead of the usual six I wind up giving them more then that because they're so tiny...


----------



## jesstanner

pewpewpew, thanks! my lfs has a really cool giant for 10.00$ that I think I might try and get! I just found this store yesterday and it's awesome! the bettas are in big(gish) cups of clear water, and the giant they at least recognized as a giant and put him in a larger cup...


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## PewPewPew

Thats great!


----------



## Jacqueto

Anyone have any suggestions for "hard water"?


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## Lion Mom

Jacqueto said:


> Anyone have any suggestions for "hard water"?


Yup - leave it and they will adjust. My water is hard and the bettas do fine with it. The fewer chemicals (if you were thinking of something like PH Down), the better. The only additive you need is a good quality water conditioner like Prime. :-D


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## kotarba1986

i am new to bettas and to fish period. i got a nice male vt Betta. this is the second day i have him and i woke up to see his water starting to get cloudy. iv got a filter in the water and a heater set at 78 but iv been trying to lower the PH but was unsuccessful and the PH is at 7.8 is that ok or should i worry about it??


----------



## denaliwind

kotarba1986 said:


> i am new to bettas and to fish period. i got a nice male vt Betta. this is the second day i have him and i woke up to see his water starting to get cloudy. iv got a filter in the water and a heater set at 78 but iv been trying to lower the PH but was unsuccessful and the PH is at 7.8 is that ok or should i worry about it??



As Lion Mom just stated, leave the PH alone, they will adjust, using chemicals to decrease it will cause more harm then good. What size is your tank? Did you wash off your decorations?
Oh, and welcome to the hobby!


----------



## kotarba1986

i have a 6.6 gal tank for my one Betta. its filtered.


----------



## ericamclain

Hi, all! Just got my first betta, and didn't read this forum until I had already set up and plopped the poor guy in the tank... He's swimming gaily, checking out his new tank, 2 gallons, btw, filtered, with a bubbler stone. No heater, though. I plan on getting a heater tomorrow, to keep him happy. Any other suggestions? Should I get rid of the bubbler? Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## ollief9

ericamclain said:


> Hi, all! Just got my first betta, and didn't read this forum until I had already set up and plopped the poor guy in the tank... He's swimming gaily, checking out his new tank, 2 gallons, btw, filtered, with a bubbler stone. No heater, though. I plan on getting a heater tomorrow, to keep him happy. Any other suggestions? Should I get rid of the bubbler? Any help would be appreciated!


Hi there, I'm guessing your new? Welcome if so.

First off, 2 gallons is a bit too small for a Betta. It is not urgent, but it would be a good idea to get a tank of at least 5 gallons in the future. It doesn't matter right now, but you will probably notice your fish is happier and more active in a larger tank.

It's great that it's filtered. I personally stick to the no filter, no fish rule. A lot of Betta keepers disagree with me, but we are all entitled to our opinions.

The bubbler stone is actually bad for a Betta tank. The reason is that the bubbles will increase water movement and surface agitation, which the Betta won't like. He won't be able to make a bubble nest with a constantly moving water surface. It's a good idea to get rid of it.

A heater which heats a 2 gallon safely is hard to find. If you upgraded to a 5 gallon, you could easily get a 25 watt heater for your fish.

Hope I helped!


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## Lion Mom

Sorry, Ollief, but I must respectfully disagree. 

I have bettas is 5 gal. tanks, 3 gal. bowls & 2 gal. drum bowls. SOME I have put in 5 gal. tanks are so overwhelmed by the room (not many, but some) that they start to tail bite. 

I have small internal filters in each of the bowls and find that 25 watt, submersible, adjustable heaters work great in each of them - the Elite Mini is especially good in that application, IMO, due to it's small size. 

Granted, I do tank cleanings multiple times a week on the bowls, but it works - at least for me!


----------



## ollief9

As I said, that's just my opinion. I'm not going to argue with you. There is a lot of controversy over the proper tank sizes for Bettas, and from my experience, 5 gallons is the recommended tank size for a beginner Betta keeper. Smaller tanks usually have yo-yo-ing water quality and temperature. 

As you are a senior member, I assume you are experienced with Bettas. 

If this new member was experienced, they could pull off keeping a Betta in a 2 gallon bowl. But while s/he is a beginner, they may find it easier to keep a 5 gallon stable.


----------



## blueridge

This helped a lot! Thanks for posting it. I didn't know that you weren't supposed to changed your water 100% of the time unless they were diseased.


----------



## ILoveMyBetta50

thanks for posting this, i just got my betta a few days ago and he has been around the bottom a lot, and i am getting a thermometer and heater soon. this is the first time i have owned a betta, along with my friend. i am soon taking care of her fish while she is away they have similar tanks although they are 2 different types of betta. one thing i have noticed while watching him is that he goes to the back side of his tank and he will notice his shadow and begins to puff out his gills and make himself look big. he did this a lot on the first day, but im noticing it less, will he do this a lot?

ILoveMyBetta50


----------



## Newbie14

Thankyou so much for this helpful info! I just inherited my sisters Betta when she moved interstate. He was always kept in a small bowl with no heater. I decided to look up some info so I could look after him properly and found this site. I'd have to say I had no idea that it was bad for them to live in such cramped conditions. I just assumed that that was the way they lived because that's how you get them from the pet stores. But I am happy to say he is now living happily in my 25L (I'm from australia Don't know gallons) tank with my glass cat fish and guppies.


----------



## Lion Mom

Welcome to the forum & to the wonderful world of bettas!!! 

You MAY want to start looking for a tank/heater set-up for just the betta - they tend to get pretty aggressive towards guppies. ESPECIALLY the male guppies with their colorful, longer tails - the betta seems to see it as another male betta. 

And KUDOS to you for researching!!!!


----------



## Neil D

ILoveMyBetta50 said:


> thanks for posting this, i just got my betta a few days ago and he has been around the bottom a lot, and i am getting a thermometer and heater soon. this is the first time i have owned a betta, along with my friend. i am soon taking care of her fish while she is away they have similar tanks although they are 2 different types of betta. one thing i have noticed while watching him is that he goes to the back side of his tank and he will notice his shadow and begins to puff out his gills and make himself look big. he did this a lot on the first day, but im noticing it less, will he do this a lot?
> 
> ILoveMyBetta50


The puffy thing is called flaring. If the light is on in his tank, and it's dark outside of his tank, he will see his reflection a flare. A betta on the bottom is usually cold. Get that heater ASAP.


----------



## NCBetta

Twistersmom said:


> Im glad you made this post. I am now in the process of setting my 5gal tank back up to put a Betta in. All the great people in the forum talked me into it.


I feel the same way. I just got my 5 gal tank up and running


----------



## ILoveMyBetta50

Neil D said:


> The puffy thing is called flaring. If the light is on in his tank, and it's dark outside of his tank, he will see his reflection a flare. A betta on the bottom is usually cold. Get that heater ASAP.


Thanks for that, I actually don't have a light for his tank yet I'm waiting on it to come in because when I ordered it I didn't realize it wasn't in stock at my local pet store they said it would only be a few more days. I have been noticing that his tank heat fluctuates with the temp of my room, so if my room is hot his tank is hot, so I tend to only let my room cool down a bit so that it matches his tank.


----------



## McLizardman

You said for a 2.5 gallon tank with a filter, a 50% water change is needed once a week. I heard from another user that a 100% change every 4 days or once a week is good. Which do you recommend?


----------



## Eris Harmonia

It generally won't kill your betta if you don't get a heater on day 1 and get it in the next day or two, right? I only remembered that I was supposed to get a heater as I was acclimating Ginji to his new tank from the pet store cup.


----------



## Neil D

Lol yeah, he can last a day or two.


----------



## betaguy

My beta fish is acting up, first time owner and ive had him for a year. recently hes been going up to the top for air a whole lot at what i calll top speed. seems freaked out
doing what i said or lays at the bottum, just started the other day. was using normal tap water and callled petsmart and they said i needed to dechlorinate the water, i did so last night and there is no change. is there something else that I should try?


----------



## JakkieTeaLoversHerSushi

Although this sticky was useful, I'm still worried about my Betta. I believe the bowl I got him is too small. He just sits at the bottom of the bowl and appears to be sleeping. He wont eat. He'll wedge himself between the glass and the heater I just bought him. Even though the thermometer says his water is at a comfy 75 degrees. I really don't want him to die. But I haven't had a Betta in years. Is he just a laid back fish who likes to sleep? From what I can tell his fins and everything else seem okay so far...is he just not adjusting well to his new environment?​


----------



## Micho

JakkieTeaLoversHerSushi said:


> Although this sticky was useful, I'm still worried about my Betta. I believe the bowl I got him is too small. He just sits at the bottom of the bowl and appears to be sleeping. He wont eat. He'll wedge himself between the glass and the heater I just bought him. Even though the thermometer says his water is at a comfy 75 degrees. I really don't want him to die. But I haven't had a Betta in years. Is he just a laid back fish who likes to sleep? From what I can tell his fins and everything else seem okay so far...is he just not adjusting well to his new environment?​


Hey there. What size is your bowl? And is the thermometer inside or outside the tank? Inside the tank thermometers are more reliable and give better accuracy! 75 is okay, but I'm just wondering. Bettas are active fishes, they jump, swim, flare, etc. 

Give us more info~!


----------



## ILoveMyBetta50

Thanks for posting this. I used most of this information to diagnose my friends fish. Although while I was busing caring for my friends fish, mine died. I was caring for them both cleaning their tanks. Then mine started acting strange. He would eat and do normal stuff and then he started to be less active and he would put his head in the corner pinned behind rocks and he wouldn't come up for air unless I turned his tank to look at him. He passed when I was out camping. We left on a Friday and we are assuming thats the day he died because when we came back Sunday he was moldy and sunk to the bottom already. I still don't know what he died from.


----------



## kisxena

OMG! Such useful information. I have never had a fish and I was given a betta fish. I was told via the pet store that the betta should be in distilled water. Now, I'm reading that's a definite no no! OY!!!

I have so much to learn and listening to anyone from a chain pet store is the worse thing I can do.

The vase it came in only holds about 1/2 gal of water. I just read that I need to cover it as well since they will jump out. I will have to do a lot of reading on here. I hope it's not too late for my fish. I've had him for 2 weeks now. The first week his water was cloudy because he wasn't eating the pellets they told us to buy. They then said they feed them freeze-dried blood worms. ummmm @[email protected]

He loves the blood worms and the water is still pretty clear. I will be changing it out Saturday. Guess, I will need to do a gradual transition to I guess bottled drinking water. Not sure what I'm going to do with all that distilled water I bought.

A youtube video sent me your way.


----------



## Myates

kisxena said:


> OMG! Such useful information. I have never had a fish and I was given a betta fish. I was told via the pet store that the betta should be in distilled water. Now, I'm reading that's a definite no no! OY!!!
> 
> I have so much to learn and listening to anyone from a chain pet store is the worse thing I can do.
> 
> The vase it came in only holds about 1/2 gal of water. I just read that I need to cover it as well since they will jump out. I will have to do a lot of reading on here. I hope it's not too late for my fish. I've had him for 2 weeks now. The first week his water was cloudy because he wasn't eating the pellets they told us to buy. They then said they feed them freeze-dried blood worms. ummmm @[email protected]
> 
> He loves the blood worms and the water is still pretty clear. I will be changing it out Saturday. Guess, I will need to do a gradual transition to I guess bottled drinking water. Not sure what I'm going to do with all that distilled water I bought.
> 
> A youtube video sent me your way.


Rule one: Don't always trust what pet store employees say. Make sure you do your own research as well. 
Most will tell you a 1/2 gallon is too small, and in many ways it can be. You can't use a heater in a half gallon, which you will need since the weather is cooling. A heater in a half gallon will fry the little guy. It is recommended to get at least a gallon.. Kritter Keepers are cheap and much bigger, easier to heat and decorate. Most bettas do better in medium to heavy planted (real or fake) with a cave of sorts to hide in. 
Pellets are pretty much the best staple food. Freeze Dried is recommended only for treats, as long as you presoak them in tank water as they have potential to bloat the fish. 4-6 pellets a day, spread out in 2-3 meals is ideal. 
In a half gallon you should be doing every 2 days 100% water change at the least. Being so small, the ammonia and such will get deadly high quickly. Another reason small isn't so good.. you have to do many water changes, which stresses the fish out, and because you are doing so many the fish doesn't have time to build up their immune system to bacteria and other things that builds up in the water because the water is too clean. Make sure you add in the water conditioner every time for the correct dose, regardless how much water you take out/add in. For a half gallon, would be easier to dose for a full gallon.
Don't use bottled water. The best water is plain old tap water. Bottled and distilled water lack the proper nutrients needed that you get in tap. It is filtered for our needs (somewhat), not for a fish's need. So use tap, the temp should be 78-82 since bettas are tropical and need the warmth. Any lower you will be causing him to become lethargic and can become sick easier. 
Good luck, welcome to the forums and any more questions just make a thread and ask!


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## Mersy

How do you do a partial water change? I have had one Betta who recently died and I was wondering that if i get another one, I should no how to do a partial.


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## GreenTea

You only change part of the water, hence the term "partial." Meaning you only remove 25% or 50% or whatever amount you want.


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## sdgallo

I just recieved a betta fish a gift from mother in law, and i am concerned about his lower fin. i noticed a small hole in the lower fin right next to the body of the fish, now this morning that same hole is now all the way out to the end of the fin!!! does "fin rot" progress this quickly? or is it more likele a tear from the plastic plant that he likes to hide behind when he is not staring at me and puffing up his gills, lol


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## Mikey1973

I have a betta in a 10gal tank. No heater, but it is filtered and have an air stone going. Is it common for a fish to just use a corner to poo in? Also read they do not like air stones, however mine loves to swim through the bubbles. 

Great info on this site.. Thanks to all contributors.


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## Neil D

@Mikey,

The airstones are always fun with bettas, as long as it doesn't push him around...
You should get a heater. I also have a 10g betta tank. It is divided however. The Aqueon 50W heater is good. 

This site is an amazing tool. Use it well


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## WiggleSwim

Is it ok to turn a non-adjustable heater off at certain periods of time. for instance, tonight it is not that cold as it was the past few days and the water was reading 81 degrees when it used to read 74-76. I think it warmed up when his light was on and the radiator not far from his tank was on, too. since the heater is unadjustable, did I make a mistake unplugging it? will it affect my heater if I keep plugging it and unplugging it? I didn't want to overheat him overnight.


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## gawroyzki

Thank you Sir for Posting this Thread! Ty


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## morla

Thank-you for sharing that! It was very helpful!


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## kurimaw

very nice. thanks!


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## courtneylvbetta

I have many questions that i would like to ask. To start i am new at taking caring of a fish. I have never owned one and when i read how to take care of a betta i felt like i was doing so much wrong. First i do not have a heater for the tank but i was wondering if it was okay to keep the tank next to the space heater. I do not know the temp of my house either so it is hard to know what is too hot for the fish. I got the fish yesterday and after i read about what the temp should be i felt the water and it was already at a cold temp and i don't know what to do. Another question is how often do i feed the betta fish. Is it once a day? Also you say to clean the water about half way through the week because i have a 1.5 gallon tank but how would you go about cleaning the tank because i do not have a filter either? Thank You for the time that you read, this i appreciate it.


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## Myates

Welcome, and welcome to being a new betta owner.. be careful, they can get addicting lol.

Be careful with putting it near the space heater, as the heater turns on and off which could cause fluctuation of the temp and is more dangerous then cool temps.
If you can't get a heater right away, then I would get a glass in-water thermometer, usually less then $2 for one- that way you are aware of the temp, and when you do a water change you can get the temperature as close to 78*F as possible.
For a heater I would look for one that is 10-25 watt- preferably adjustable, but if not, something that fits into your tank will be fine. Having temps in the lower 70s won't kill the betta, but may cause long term problems, such as lowered immunity, lethargy, slower metabolism and with all that it could shorten their life spans. 
So it's ideal to get a heater once you are able to. A small 10 watt is usually around $12, so it's not too bad- I'd shop around and see what you can find that works best for you.

A 1.5 gallon is a suitable home for a single betta- make sure to have a silk plant or two and if possible, a cave of sorts for him to feel secure and to give mental stimulation to them... they also love to sleep in the plants and in the cave.

To clean a 1.5 without a filter it's ideal to do a 50% water only, and a 100% water change per week- you may be able to get away with a 100% every 4 days. 
You will want to scoop him up using the cup he came in and change the water- adding in the new water at roughly the same temp as what it was, and adding in the right amount of water conditioner for the volume of the tank. Float the guy in the cup for roughly 15 minutes, halfway through remove some water from the cup and replace it with water from the tank to acclimate him to the chemistry while he is acclimating to the temp.

As for feeding, small meals multiple times a day is the best- I tend to feed mine twice a day, morning and evening, once in a while a snack mid day is thrown in as a treat- you can fast them for a day out of the week if you wish as a lot of people do. I personally don't because I am very specific on how much I feed, and I vary the amount daily and instead of a full day of fasting, once or twice a week I will have them skip a meal. 

Pellets tend to be the easiest to feed- common pellets a total of 4-6 a day is fine, so 2-3 pellets per meal. Or a few flakes per meal works. 

Once a day normal feeding, I don't personally like it because my view is that the one meal you are either over feeding per meal which could cause bloating and constipation, or underfeeding and not giving them enough nutrition. But skipping a meal here and there won't harm them as they make up for it the other days.


Welcome to the forums once more and please feel free to ask! If need be, you can start a thread with your questions, you may get more people seeing it as a lot of people don't look up at the stickies  And don't feel bad, most of us have listened to the myths and pet store employees with our first bettas.


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## courtneylvbetta

Thank You so much for the help i learned a lot


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## shortcake87

I just got my Betta on monday and so glad that I came on here, because I had no clue of what he needed! They told me a 1gallon tank was fine and he is a little happier than the bowl he was kept in. but if u have any other suggestions PLEASE let me know cause I know its only been a couple of days but I love him alreadhy!!!


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## Myates

Oh the joys of your first betta.. congrats on getting bitten by the betta bug!

A one gallon is fine.. if you are looking to upgrade a bit for cheap then a kritter keeper is ideal.. a medium is 1.75g and a large is 2.75g, safe to heat and easy to light with a desk lamp.

Do you have a heater? 

Otherwise, keep up on the weekly water changes, feed him twice a day 2-3 pellets per meal, or a tiny pinch of flakes per meal and he should stay healthy.


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## courtneylvbetta

okay, so now i got a new tank for my fish. It says to let the tank fun for 24 hours to a few days or for a week. But the question i had was can i leave my Betta in a tuber ware bowl until 24 hours and then put him in the new tank. i did not know if it was good if the Betta was in a tuber ware bowl for a day or two. i also put a cover over the top and it has hole in it?


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## Myates

It was safe- as long as there was no soap residue in it. (I know this is late- sorry about that)

How big is the tank? A cycle will take weeks to establish, and in larger tanks of 5 gallons and more, you will need to do very frequent water tests because there will be spikes of ammonia and nitrites/ates which can be deadly very quickly. If you see ammonia and the nitrites in the tank then do a partial water change each time to lower the numbers. 

Here is a thread about the basics of cycling, and what your tank will be going through over the next few weeks- if it's 5 gallons and over. So in case you start seeing your new guy become ill, or if your tank becomes cloudy.


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## Wolfboy51

Randomly adding that some heaters need moving water to work so u may need a heater.


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## Myates

Have never heard that a heater needs moving water to work.. moving water may help distribute the warmer water a bit easier.. and some only heat to a few degrees above room temp so when replacing new water during a change it's a good idea to get the new water close to the temp that the heater is set at- but those are usually meaning for non-adjustable heaters.

Either way a heater is needed because bettas are tropical fish.. but a filter or aeration of sorts such as an air stone is not needed.


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## Wolfboy51

It might just be my heater but it needs some sort of water movement or itl just switch off cause the water round it it warm.


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## debnursern

Thanks for the great Betta info!


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## courtneylvbetta

after you add conditioning to tap water how long do you wait till you put a betta fish back in the tank?


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## Myates

Majority of the conditioners, the more common ones, tend to work instantly. Just give it a quick swirl in the water and then acclimate the betta to the temp/chemistry and release.


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## banpman

Appreciate the advice!


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## mag114

*friend*

_hello everyone i just recently bought a tank for a Betta fish, well i bought a beautiful male that 2 days later it died because of we changed the tank water was to cold, i was sad :sad:but a week later my sister got me another beautiful blue male but that one got stuck in between a shell & the glass tank yes it also died sooo i went to petsmart bought a ugly looking female:lol: which is still alive jeje.. true story can you give me advice on how to care for it ??? thank you ,Maggie .........
_










Cody said:


> :arrow:  Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ):
> 
> -*How do I breed bettas?*
> Spawning bettas is not necessarily difficult if you know what you’re doing and are prepared for the outcome. The fish first need to be conditioned by feeding well with good meaty foods such as brine shrimp and live blackworms. The female should get nice and plump full of eggs during this time. Most bettas can be conditioned for breeding within about 2 wks. Once conditioned, the fish should be safely introduced to each other where they cannot yet come in contact with each other. Putting the female into a covered cup (with small air hole in cover) half full of water and floating that in the male’s tank is one method frequently used. Dividers can be tricky due to the betta’s ability to jump over it.) If the fish have access to each other too soon it is possible for them to fight instead of mate, which can be potentially deadly to either fish. Once exposed to either other by sight, the male will then build a bubble nest as he courts the female with frequent displays in front of her. They both will flare their gills at each other in their mating display. The female’s stripes will change direction. Once the bubble nest is in tact, then the female can be released into the male’s tank. It is very important that she be removed immediately after the spawning has taken place, and this must be done without disturbing the bubble nest. For this reason it is a good idea to use a long shallow tank (a 15 – 20 gallon long tank filled 2/3 of the way with water works nicely) with lots of shelter for the female to hide away from the male and his nest. Eggs hatch within 24 – 48 hrs. The fry are born with a yolk sac, and will feed on this for the first day or 2. Once the fry are free swimming, the male should be removed. Some males will eat the fry. Care for the fry is the hardest part of spawning bettas. Their water must be extremely clean at all times, yet they must be fed 3 – 5 times/day. Airline tubing works well for removing any solid waste and dirty water, but care must be taken to ensure the fry are not sucked up.
> Bettas grow rather slowly, so they don’t usually show color until they are 3 – 4 months of age. They must also be watched closely, and separated as soon as aggression begins among them. This can happen as soon as 8 wks after hatching. Each betta should have a container of its own at this point, males and females both. Female siblings can sometimes be kept together a bit longer than the males, but females are just as aggressive as males, so this is only temporary.
> A betta spawn can include up to 100+ fry. The difficulty in spawning bettas is usually in separating 100+ fry so each has a container of its own, with daily water changes and feedings 3 – 5 times/day until they reach the size of 1 – 1 ½ inches.
> Proper foods for betta fry include daphnia, newly hatched and strained brine shrimp (this can be a difficult and messy process), and crumbled betta flake food. A combination of these foods is best.
> It’s always a good idea to plan an outlet for betta fry BEFORE spawning begins. Many lfs’s won’t take bettas younger than 6 months – 1 yr old, or until they are at full size and color.
> 
> -*What temperature should I keep my betta at?*
> Minimum 76 degrees farenheit. A safe range is 76-86. The important thing is that it needs to be stable. These are tropical fish that will not tolerate cold water.
> 
> -*Why do bettas fight?*
> They are in the Ananbantid phylum, and mark their territory with bubble nests. Males will not tolerate other males who enter this area.
> 
> -*Can I keep bettas with goldfish?*
> No. Goldfish require large tanks with massive filtration, and coldwater. Bettas are tropical and need very low flow.
> 
> -*What fish can I keep my betta with?*
> Any fish that is tropical, is not nippy, and does not have long fins. Bettas are very slow fish and should not be housed with fish like Male Guppies, Tiger Barbs, Angelfish, Goldfish, and most Minnows. You can also keep ADF’s, some shrimp, or snails all depending on the personality of your betta. Bettas do best with peaceful bottom dwellers and/or inverts.
> 
> -*My betta is bloated. What do I do?*
> Peas are not healthy for a betta and can cause permanent damage to their digestive system and shorten life span. If a betta is bloated then it is time to take a look at water quality and feeding habits, as well as temperature. An overfed fish is an unhealthy fish at risk of bloating. An adult betta should be fed once/day and should be able to finish all food within 2 minutes. Bettas have very small stomachs and need time to digest food before consuming more. Improper foods can also cause bloating, as can digestive tract problems and intestinal parasites.
> 
> -*What kind of water do I use for my betta?*
> A reliable source of spring water can be used safely for a betta. The use of RO/DI water will require the addition of needed minerals & nutrients, as would distilled water. The purification process done with distilling makes distilled water the most pure, and thus the most dangerous for a fish. The process of RO and DI will also remove many minerals and nutrients the betta fish need for their organs to function properly. Tap water is usually the safest, but use of water conditioner is very important. Water conditioner will neutralize chlorine and chloramines, as well as toxic heavy metals that may be found in tap water sources. Testing tap water before using it for a betta is important. There are other, more complicated ways to make tap water safe. If you find you have high ammonia, nitrite, and/or nitrate in your tap water, and can’t find a good source of bottled water, then those other options should be considered. (other options include using a bucket, filter, and filter media to clean the water before using it in the betta tank)
> 
> -*My betta wont eat!*
> Bettas can get bored with the same food every day. The best way to get your betta to eat is to try a variety of foods. When he is hungry, he will eat if the food is proper. Brine shrimp, live blackworms, and very small snails can often tempt even the fussiest of bettas. By keeping a variety of foods in the diet, this will prevent the fish from becoming bored with the food, and will also prevent any risk of malnutrition. Food sources should be meaty foods, such as small insects, insect larvae, small worms, brine shrimp, etc. Vegetables such as peas can cause severe damage to a betta’s digestive tract and should be avoided.
> 
> -*Why did my fish change colors?*
> A mature betta shouldn’t change colors other than to get a bit brighter during spawning, and the stripes on the females will change direction. Faded color in a betta is a good indication that something is wrong. A sick fish will lose color and luster, as will an old fish and/or a stressed fish. If you notice a color change in your betta, it is then a good idea to do some water testing, check temp, be sure there are plenty of decorations, air is easily obtained from the surface, and be sure he’s getting the proper diet. If all needs are being met, then it is time to begin looking for other signs of illness.
> 
> -*Why are there bubbles on the top of my tank?*
> These are made by male bettas. This means he is happy, healthy, and ready for spawning (but doesn't mean they have to spawn).
> 
> -*How long do bettas live?*
> Anywhere from 1 year to 6 years, but a healthy betta is generally 3-5 years.
> 
> -*My betta is laying down on the bottom of the tank!*
> Temperature is too cold. A heater will fix this up. Bettas become very lethargic when kept at low temperatures. This can also be a sign of illness and/or stress. Be sure the fish has plenty of hiding places, water params are in good standing, and there are no other signs of illness such as tattered fins, fins with holes in them, white patches on the body, fuzzy growths, swelling of the eyes or abdomen, or anything else that appears to be “off”. Laying at the bottom can also be a sign of old age. As bettas mature into old age they slow down, both in metabolism and activity level. It is often necessary to lower water levels for older fish so they don’t have as far to swim to obtain oxygen.
> 
> -*Can a betta’s tail grow back?*
> Yes, when kept at proper conditions. However, that is also largely dependent on why the fins were lost in the first place. If it’s an infection such as fin rot, medications would be needed before healing could begin.
> 
> -*Does my betta need a filter?*
> Need, no. Recommended, highly. The only reason that people don't like bettas with filters is because they are often found in still-water rice paddies. But why would a betta be so special as to not receive proper care? The Azoo Palm Filter/Red Sea Nano Filter, as well as the Whisper internal filters are great.
> 
> 
> I hope this information will help everyone keep their betta for as long as they can in thriving conditions.
> 
> **Many thanks to Bettababy for the new, extra information**


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## Atena

Thank you for this post, everything I know about Bettas I have learned in the last 6 days and most of it has been from the helpful community in this forum. What a great place for new betta people, thank you so much for all the wonderful advice, it is a huge help!

Atena


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## Serai7

Thanks so much for this post! You said everything important need to know really directly, simply and clearly.


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## Bettalover12345

My Betta fish (becca) doesn't want to eat at all and she just sits there at the bottom if the tank... I want to know what to do.


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## MyRainbowBettaFish

thanks, great info!


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## Neil D

If your betta isn't eating or swimming much, it's probably because of the heat. How warm is your tank?


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## bettafishlover5346

How many bettas can I put in a 10 gallon fish tank? I was thinking about 17. I cycled my tank with 2 gallons of ammonia yesterday, so my tank is ready to go!


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## Bombalurina

Your tank is not ready to go if you added ammonia yesterday. Please read the stickies. That's not cycling.

You can put between 4 and 6 female bettas in a 10 gallon, or divide it for 2 males. If you are not experienced with bettas, I would suggest not trying a sorority yet.


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## Neil D

^Listen to bombalurina. I have a 10g too with two males (divided of course). That's it for males. For females, don't even think about a sorority unless you have experience. Males are hard enough.


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## Pearl2011

17 is way too much. 5 females is ideal, or divide between two males. 
I would in NO way try a sorority yet. I have one and the first week is a constant headache (and the weeks after). Two males look beautiful together.

Your tank is not cycled. Cycling takes a few weeks. Google it to find a good technique.


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## craiger75

"Vegetables such as peas can cause severe damage to a betta’s digestive tract and should be avoided."

I thought peas were good for constipation. I also read Bettas like broccoli and spinach occasionally. What's up?


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## ANHEL123

Pearl2011 said:


> 17 is way too much. 5 females is ideal, or divide between two males.
> I would in NO way try a sorority yet. I have one and the first week is a constant headache (and the weeks after). Two males look beautiful together.
> 
> Your tank is not cycled. Cycling takes a few weeks. Google it to find a good technique.


+1

Also you never know with girls.If one gets stressed,or set off just sllightly she can viciously attack and even kill the other. Some females are just plain mean and have to be treated like males-kept separate from their own kind


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## AquaRaptor

*Good Filter type?*

Looking for a new filter for my new betta Jay. Anywone know one that's not too expensive..?


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## Neil D

@Craiger75: Bettas are carnivores, so peas are really bad for their digestive tract. 

@AquaRaptor: The Tetra Whisper filter line isn't bad. It really depends on the size of the tank. If your tank is larger than 10g, the Marineland Penguin filters are good too.


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## enchanted01

I really want to thank everyone on this site for all the great information. Gypsy thanks you too.  I had a betta (Rocky) for 2 years before he died. I kept him in a 1 gallon unfiltered and unheated tank. I thought I had done really well considering the track record of some of my friends and their bettas. I feel really bad now that I know he could have lived longer and been more vibrant and active. I got Gypsy a few weeks ago and found this site. After days and hours of reading through posts here, I am now cycling a 5 gallon tank for him and checking my local pet store for a heater tomorrow. It will be a few weeks before it is ready and I can't wait. I went to walmart this evening and saw how horrible the bettas there looked and wanted to take them all home with me. Who knows, this could be the beginning of something really crazy.;-) I know a bowl isn't ideal, but I think I'll keep it once I move him just in case I need to rescue a little fella or gal in a hurry. Again, I really can't thank everyone enough.


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## Neil D

Yeah, there are heaters for 1 gal. bowls, it's just that they're not adjustable, so your house would have to be a stable temp, lol.

And this forum is a great place. Use it well.^_^


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## fluffnstuff

I'm going to get some ghost shrimp and in prepaation i bought fluval shrimp mineral supplement. Is it okay to use in my betta's tank?


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## LebronTheBetta

Neil D said:


> @Craiger75: Bettas are carnivores, so peas are really bad for their digestive tract.
> 
> @AquaRaptor: The Tetra Whisper filter line isn't bad. It really depends on the size of the tank. If your tank is larger than 10g, the Marineland Penguin filters are good too.


Betta Fish are Insectivores. But, it's almost the same thing.


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## BETTACHKALOVE

enchanted01 said:


> I really want to thank everyone on this site for all the great information. Gypsy thanks you too.  I had a betta (Rocky) for 2 years before he died. I kept him in a 1 gallon unfiltered and unheated tank. I thought I had done really well considering the track record of some of my friends and their bettas. I feel really bad now that I know he could have lived longer and been more vibrant and active. I got Gypsy a few weeks ago and found this site. After days and hours of reading through posts here, I am now cycling a 5 gallon tank for him and checking my local pet store for a heater tomorrow. It will be a few weeks before it is ready and I can't wait. I went to walmart this evening and saw how horrible the bettas there looked and wanted to take them all home with me. Who knows, this could be the beginning of something really crazy.;-) I know a bowl isn't ideal, but I think I'll keep it once I move him just in case I need to rescue a little fella or gal in a hurry. Again, I really can't thank everyone enough.


Tell you the truth i don't cycle the tanks. But i do a lot of water changes. I do 50% weekly and 100% every 2 weeks for 5 gall. I do 1-50% and 1-100% for 2.5 gall. But i don't have filters though.

The water changes can be different depend if you have filter

I have 8 bettas and the older is about to be 5 years old.


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## Neil D

LebronTheBetta said:


> Betta Fish are Insectivores. But, it's almost the same thing.


True, but insects are animals, and things that eat animals are carnivores...insects are considered animals right? XD


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## jewlster1259

How should the lighting be? Where in the house should I put his tank? Thanks


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## BubbiBubba

Can someone please visit my thread & help me? I've had some awesome comments, but I feel that more opinions the better! I'm obviously new here... & btw, can someone tell me how I could directly reply to a commenter? Unless you quote them, how can they know that you have responded unless they keep checking back on this website??? All help appreciated, thank you!!!


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## Innovation

I have fed betta more than 4 years...Then I would like to share my experience.

1. I think betta like to live at temperature 25-30 celcius. 
2. If you give it fresh food (both frozen or alive are great) , your betta will be more healthy than pellet food.
3. Try to change the water at least 1 time/week but don't change water too frequently.


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## Jake3698

I have a few questions and concerns, i won a Betta today at the fair and didn't have anything to keep him in.. I really did not think it through, on my way home i went to Petco and talked to one of the employees there. She has owned about 20 fish and helped me get a setup going. 
I got the Aqueon evolve2 (http://www.aqueonproducts.com/products/evolve-led-aquarium-kit.htm) There it is so you don't have to search for it..
Its roughly 1.75 gallons, i filled up two full gallons from my sink and poured in and had a small amount remaining in the second bottle. I added the included Aqueon water conditioner (The full cap is for 5 gallons, so i did a little under 1/5 of a cap and poured that in) The filter has been running since about 6pm (its midnight) and after reading the main post here I'm worried that the current might be too strong.. The plants i have in there are not very hard, i think. I mean they felt pretty soft but i have blue shiny rocks on the bottom.. He might cut his fins on those, I'm going to take them out tomorrow morning. I was planning on adding the fish at around 5pm tomorrow since i start work at six and don't want to leave him in the little container they gave me when i won him.
Currently there is no heater but my tank has a compartment for one in the back i will be getting one tomorrow and setting it for 80f.
The tank came with "Tropical Fish Flakes" and i gave him a couple.. did not really eat them. Buying new stuff tomorrow, with protein listed as one of the first three ingredients as that's what i read that they need.
I'm extremely worried that some of the aforementioned things may cause me to lose this beautiful fish, i don't have a pic of him right now or i would show.. He is a beautiful one and i have not seen one like him before. The main part of his body is a whiteish/silver that slowly fades to blue about half way down his fins, then turned to a brilliant red. 
I named him PoPo because he reminds me of the sirens of a cop.
I guess what I'm trying to ask is... Will my fish be ok? if not how can i make sure he will live a long and happy life?

I'm sorry if there were any spelling mistakes or grammar errors, it is almost midnight and i have not slept in over a day.


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## craiger75

I came into bettas almost the same way - kinda got dropped in my lap! My first recommendation would be take a deep breath, read up on here, and start over. I broke the bank buying a lot of needless stuff or stuff that wasn't right. So, my other piece of advice is try to get it right the first time to save yourself time and money - unlike me. 

For starters you want to get the basics, then get the extras later as you can afford them. I would say more water conditioner (about half a cap) and frequent water changes are particularly important in an aquarium that size (read the Sticky). You might want a bigger tank (2.5g or larger), a small filter or baffle/modify your existing one, and betta specific food pellets. Ideally, you cycle your tank first to get good bacteria going, but that's kind of a live-and-learn thing - you can always buy a bottle of bacteria or get betta specific bacteria in a foil bag. If something's not right, take it back to the store and get the right item - it's their screw-up if they sold you the wrong thing. There's a lot of misconceptions and myths about bettas so educate yourself.

As far as plants go, if you're using fake ones try to get silk or silk-like I believe - haven't tried them so I can't say definitively. They're more expensive but less hassle than live ones. Gravel - make sure it's smooth, and I can tell you on a personal note; if you do use live plants make sure you use planted aquarium substrate (PAS). I can't tell you how much money I've thrown away on that mistake! And, make sure the plants are aquatic - none of this semi-aquatic business.

You're getting him a heater, which is good but you're going to want a thermometer to monitor the water temperature - preferably one that goes in the water. 

You got him out of the jar he came in, and you seem to be a responsible fishkeeper. Popo is a good-looking fish and off to a great start ... Good luck!


----------



## Jake3698

Thank you! You said something about baffle/modifying my current filter? Is there somewhere where i can read up on that?
I'm not sure if Petco would take it back... I already have everything running, and full.. There are pictures of the tank up too.
I can't buy a new tank yet as i work a minimum wage job and only 8 hours a week. Probably in a couple months.
I'm heading to Petco now to check for the bacteria bags, as i remember reading that cycling takes weeks and weeks to do, i am also going to ask my dad for help. He had a massive fifty gallon salt water tank for years that he took very good care of, i figure there are small similarities here that he can help me with.
The rocks on the bottom are extremely smooth and rounded, i am taking out the blue plastic ones though. They are definitely too sharp for him.


----------



## sparkyluvrebogin

I got my first betta 2 years ago, and I've been through 5 of them...
I feel so sorry for them and I still regret that I should have studied more about them!!!!

The longest one I've had is a female betta--she was special because we brought her home on the day our 17 year old dog passed away.... She (my betta) lived for 2 years, until last December.

Now that I'm seriously into this betta caring (I know, so late) I've been trying to figure out the basics.

Okay, so here's my question---At Petsmart, they advertise that Bettas can live in small jars and tanks, and we bought a 1 gallon tank. But as Cody says, is the minimum really 2 gallons?? 
If it is, I might have to give up my new betta because we live in an apartment and there is no room for a bigger tank/.....


----------



## JTHM1011

Thanks for the info I was really worried that my betta lysander was sick when he is just cold hope to get a heater soon


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## craiger75

Jake3698 said:


> Thank you! You said something about baffle/modifying my current filter? Is there somewhere where i can read up on that?
> I'm not sure if Petco would take it back... I already have everything running, and full.. There are pictures of the tank up too.
> I can't buy a new tank yet as i work a minimum wage job and only 8 hours a week. Probably in a couple months.
> I'm heading to Petco now to check for the bacteria bags, as i remember reading that cycling takes weeks and weeks to do, i am also going to ask my dad for help. He had a massive fifty gallon salt water tank for years that he took very good care of, i figure there are small similarities here that he can help me with.
> The rocks on the bottom are extremely smooth and rounded, i am taking out the blue plastic ones though. They are definitely too sharp for him.


The link for this article is about baffling. Modifying is simply putting some pantyhose over the uptake valve with a rubberband. Or, a piece of sponge, filter media, cottonballs (almost anything really) in that bottom piece. Judging by the look of that thing, it might already be built-in, so be careful not to break anything.

www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=30139


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## craiger75

sparkyluvrebogin said:


> I got my first betta 2 years ago, and I've been through 5 of them...
> I feel so sorry for them and I still regret that I should have studied more about them!!!!
> 
> The longest one I've had is a female betta--she was special because we brought her home on the day our 17 year old dog passed away.... She (my betta) lived for 2 years, until last December.
> 
> Now that I'm seriously into this betta caring (I know, so late) I've been trying to figure out the basics.
> 
> Okay, so here's my question---At Petsmart, they advertise that Bettas can live in small jars and tanks, and we bought a 1 gallon tank. But as Cody says, is the minimum really 2 gallons??
> If it is, I might have to give up my new betta because we live in an apartment and there is no room for a bigger tank/.....


I wanted a 2.5g but was initially talked into a 1g by my wife. Then bought a 5g off of someone on Craigslist to find out we already had one in the garage! It's really debatable, more room is better (I'd have a 10g if I could but the wife would kill me - lol). But, you're doing your best for him and that's what counts.


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## craiger75

JTHM1011 said:


> Thanks for the info I was really worried that my betta lysander was sick when he is just cold hope to get a heater soon


HA ... Yw!


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## BETTACHKALOVE

I have bettas for about 6.5 years. A few of them will be 5 years old. If your tank is 1.75 or 2 you need to do 1-50% and 1-100% water changes a week. You can have filter and baffle it but it not necessary though to have a filter if you will do those water changes.
Definitely be careful with filters always make sure it not too strong. There is a lot of accidents with betta stock in the filter.
Also with filters you need to rinse them in the old water WITH new water change. Not sure how often since i don't have filters....
And people who don't do 100% water changes need to use gravel vacuum regularly.


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## BETTACHKALOVE

Also just want to add something when you change the water make sure the new water is approximately +-4*the same temperature as his water. And take time to acclimate your betta to new chemistry/temperature.

Also always leave space between the top of the tank and water level because bettas are good jumpers and there is a lot of accidents when bettas jumped out. The same when you changing them make sure they don't jump out. I don't use a net , i am using his cup to scoop them and i had one that jumped out. So always cover the cup or a net with your hand....


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## ClydesdaleStallioni

Glad you're getting a Betta, Twistersmom! I have one with an ash colored body and orange fins. 
About the Betta tank...........great advice! I'm going to get a heater for my Betta as soon as possible.


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## Rubyjames

Is a 1.0 gallon tank acceptable and not cruel for a male veil tail? I know the size isn't ideal but unfortunately I'm on a limited budget. 

Also, I'm currently using Omega One Betta Buffet flakes for my fish which I bought yesterday. He refuses to eat. Should I wait for him to get more settled in his new home or should I go out and buy some new food like bloodworms?

(Omega One Flakes first ingredients are salmon, cod, krill, rockfish, and shrimp so I know that the food is wholesome and nutritious. The crude protein is 43%.)

Thanks


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## BETTACHKALOVE

For one gall make sure you do 1-50 and 1-100% changes a week. Always make sure new water is +-2-4* the same as his water. And take time to acclimate your betta by adding new water to his changing cup for a few times. This way he will acclimate to new temperature/chemistry.

A lot of time bettas don't eat when you just buy them. Did you just buy him?They need to adjust to new environment. I would just try feeding him. Always remove uneaten food though. It very important, because it will contaminate the water. Also i personally don't like flakes because they are messy and half of them sinking to the bottom while betta eating them. So i would suggest also to buy Aqueon BettaFood or New Life SPECTRUM Betta Formula. New Life SPECTRUM not floating pellets though they are sinking to the bottom right away. So if your betta don't eat then it better if you can find Aqueon.
Make sure you use water conditioner.

Is your betta acting normally. Is he active or laying on the bottom of the tank? If you just bought him and he acting normally then he probably just need to adjust to new environment. So just keep trying and keep us update


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## Rubyjames

I just bought him yesterday. I tried to get his attention a few timers so that I could feed him but he really didn't seem too interested. I put a flake in for a couple of minutes but he was not interested so I removed them. Overall he seems to be doing well. However, he does like to hide underneath my silk plant. Is that normal? I think he might be a little lethargic due to the temperature. I ordered a heater which should do the trick but it isn't to arrive for a few days. For now, I'm just placing a light on him which seems to boost his spirits. He is much more active today than yesterday so it might just be that he needs to get used to his environment.


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## BETTACHKALOVE

Usually when they new they very skittish. But you can watch him don't come close so he can see you watch if he is hiding all day long under silk plant then something can be wrong.
I just bought another betta for someone and it took him 3 days to get used to me. As soon as he saw me he was swimming to the bottom. But all day long he was very active. 

What temperature in your room?


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## Rubyjames

My room is 77 degrees. He still isn't eating.

He's swimming around his tank more now: he likes watching me when I'm lying down in my bed. However, he still seems to retreat to the bottom of the bowl, underneath the silk plant often.


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## BETTACHKALOVE

77* is good though. 76-80* is good temperature so you fine. He would not be lethargic due to 77*
A lot of betta don't eat at the beginning so it fine. I know it annoying but just keep offering ...
Make sure you keep up with water changes, acclimating him to the new temp...give us update. 

If he swimming more it good, i personally don't like the fact that he hiding a lot so keep eye on him and give us update. I personally think if fish lethargic then something wrong. So keep eye and see how he doing. 
What water conditioner do you use?


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## Rubyjames

Conditioner is Aqueon Betta Bowl Plus

The fish bowl water feels very cool to the touch, it doesn't feel room temperature. It's very strange. I'm really hoping that he keeps swimming around and stops hiding. I'm getting a little worried. I spent a long time researching Bettas before I got him so I really hope I did everything right. :/


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## Destinystar

You could fill a one gallon jug with water and add conditioner and let it set all day to get to room temperature. Also add about 1/4th hot water to the gallon jug and the rest cold water, add conditioner and shake a few times, let is sit out a couple of hours and check the temperature that works well for me. You can get a something to check the temp of the water at your local pet shop.


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## Rubyjames

I just set that up. Im awaiting the arrival of a thermometer/heater n the next few days. Thanks for the help.


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## BETTACHKALOVE

I have my bettas in the room without heaters in the summer time . And i have thermometers in each tank and the temperature in the tanks the same as the room.....I love the thermometer strips that you can stick outside of the tank. If you see one i do recommend them. It sensitive to the temperature changes.
http://www.petco.com/N_24_4294956675/Fish-Tank-Thermometers.aspx

The thing is that no matter how experience people are you always can get sick fish form the store. I bought a lot of bettas . I have 8 and i bought about 7 for other people. You always have chance to get sick one.

I saw someone recommended to have emergency kit at home. I always have aquarium , epsom salt and medications at home in case i get sick fish.

I hope you fish will be better. If you think he is lethargic i would treat him . Just watch him and see his behavior and give us update so we can decide what to do . And i guess other people on the forum will write what they think. 

Any symptoms on his body? Any spots, bloating, cottony white patches....


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## BETTACHKALOVE

i use aged water all the time for my bettas. I put water conditioner and let water sit for about 12-24 hrs this way new water will be the same temp .


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## Rubyjames

He seems to be in decent physical condition. No unusual spots on his body or fins. His fins appear to be health. The only issue is that the top fin is curled over a little. (I believe that's from the lack of space in his tiny container that I bought him in.) I will do a partial change tomorrow with the sitting water that I just prepped.


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## BETTACHKALOVE

Curled fin is might be due to the water hardness i believe, not really due to size of his container. I really don't have issue with ph or hardness of my water so not an expert at all. But i know from reading on this forum that curly fins can be due to the water hardness.
When you change him take long time to acclimate him. Have him in his changing cup and put new water a little bit may be like 15% wait for like 5-10 min and do it again for a few times do it until you fill up the container.

Always make sure you put enough water conditioner . It better to put more then less.

Like i said i don't have problem with hardness or ph. I hope people will give you advice . I think it good idea to check your water in the store. Or you can buy a kit in the store and check your water.


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## BETTACHKALOVE

I personally never checked my water . I just never had any issue. If he continue to be lethargic with no other physical symptoms i would think it due to hardness. And i think bettas are very adjustable to it. You just need to acclimate him and i would use aged water to make sure you don't stress him with temp difference when you change him.


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## Rubyjames

His fin looks like the dorsal fin of the red one in the top left except mine is a little more curled. I will do a 50% water change tomorrow and will watch for progress.

His fin has been curled like that ever since I got him from the store. Even in the store container, it was curled.

Edit: picture not showing. It's the picture underneath the subtitle "veiltails" 
http://betta-plakat.blogspot.com/2011_06_01_archive.html


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## BETTACHKALOVE

Then just give us update. 
The only thing that worries me that he is a little lethargic. So watch for that symptom. And he don't eat but again a lot of bettas don't eat at the beginning.


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## Rubyjames

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it. I will make sure to mention his progress.


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## BETTACHKALOVE

Good luck


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## BETTACHKALOVE

I also want to mention that bettas are good jumpers. Make sure to leave space between the top of the tank and water level. And be careful when you cahnge him also they are jump!!!


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## BlueberryFishy

Hii! Everyone! I just made this account because I just bought a brand new Blue Betta Named Blueberry  He is very pretty but im not sure how to take care of him! Can anyone give me information on how to keep him healthy  Please help me!!


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## BETTACHKALOVE

How big is his tank? Do you have water conditioner? What kind of food do you have for him?


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## BlueberryFishy

I have a 1 gallon bowl and i got topFin watter conditioner. (I followed the instructions and have had it settling sence like 7 last night...) For food i have Aqueon Betta food ....


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## BlueberryFishy

**TopFin Betta Water Conditioner


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## BETTACHKALOVE

For one gall do 1-50 and 1-100% water changes a week.

Take betta out. You can use container you bought him in as a changing cup.Just rinse everything in the tank( WITH OUT SOAP) . Just rinse it with warm water. I usually wipe and rinse again so there is no residue left.

Pour new water (with water conditioner) in his tank. 

When you take betta out be careful if you are using a net. Don't damage his fins. Also when you couch the fish be aware it can jumped out. And when he is in his changing cup put a lid so it don't jump out. Some people using the net, some using a cup to scoop them. I think you would now your way..I am using a cup because i am afraid to damage their fins.

When you have him in his 1 gall bowl also live a space between the tap of tank and water level.

Now before you put him back in his tank .
While you have him in his changing cup with his original water, add new water to his cup a little bit..about 15% and let him get used to it for about 5 min. Do it a few times. This will let him adjust to new chemistry/temperature.

Usually when you change a betta you need to make new temp approx +-2-4*the same as his.You can let new water sit for 12-24 hrs . Put water conditioner , like you wrote you did, let it sit before you change him- this way new water temp will be the same as his, so you don't shock him with difference.


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## BlueberryFishy

Okay  Thank you! Do you have any idea how much/ Often i should feed him? I named the type of food above (Aqueon Betta Food) They are very very small pellets...


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## LebronTheBetta

2 pellets 2x a day is sufficient. The maximum amount you can give is 6 pellets per day if they're micro. Fast once week if chosen to.


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## BlueberryFishy

Can i ask the reasons behind fasting once a week? Im just curious it seams odd


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## LebronTheBetta

It helps to clear out the digestive system and makes sure there isn't any build up. Just making sure your Betta isn't turning fat.


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## BlueberryFishy

Okay  Thank you!!!


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## BETTACHKALOVE

I also love to feed them with hikary freeze dried blood worms . The kind i feed them enriched with multi-Vitamins. Well at least that what they wrote. But you have to be careful with blood worms don't overfeed since they can be the cause of betta bloating. I usually give it about 2 times a week in the morning or evening to substitute the pellets. Or you can give a few in between the pellets. If i give them instead of the pellet i give them about 5 worms if between pellet i give a few.
That link is what kind i am feeding them:
http://www.google.com/search?q=hika...&sugexp=chrome,mod=4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


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## BlueberryFishy

Okay... So i have only had my betta for a few days and his bowl seams to have small bubbles around the rim and a small cluster of them, my parents say that its just air bubbled from him breathing but it makes me nervous and he has also seams to be hanging out at the very top of his bowl. He is still eating.. But he is just making me nervous? He has only been here for 2 days and i am going to change the soon
Anybody have any help?


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## LebronTheBetta

Your parents are right, those bubbles are from him breathing from the surface. Bettas usually dwell at the top but stay there more often if they're sick. Is he lethargic? Change the water when you can, clean water is the best for their health.


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## BlueberryFishy

He was but we moved him to the lving room for now to keep and eye on him and he seams much better, I think it might have been because i fogot to turn the light on in my room this morning i read that they need dark at night and light durring the day :/ so i think that might be why


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## LebronTheBetta

Oh, OK. They do love the dark.


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## BETTACHKALOVE

Is he hanging out at the very top of his bowl all day? Is he swimming at all?
Look at his stomach is he bloated? I don't think the light will make him stay at one spot all day long. Unless it really dark in your room and he is sleeping. If your room haS natural light from outside it enough, again unless it really dark. I don't have light for my tanks.

Make sure you acclimate him when you change the water.

Is it look like he is gasping for air?


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## BETTACHKALOVE

I would think if there a lot of bubbles and he is breathing from surface a lot then it looks like he is gasping for air. I am wondering if you putting enough of the water conditioner. Or something in the water that you need more of the water conditioner. I don't know the brand that you are using. Is it remove Chlorine,chloramine,nitrite,nitrate? Can you buy stress coat API in addition to it. It always better to put more of the water conditioner then not enough.

Because i would think if there is no physical symptoms and if he is all the time at the top and a lot of bubbles then something wrong with water....


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## MadameDesu

Don't forget that bettas also blow bubbles when they're happy (bubble nests). But hanging out at the top is still a concern.


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## LebronTheBetta

^ That's a myth. It's not true. Some random person on the internet made that up. It doesn't mean they're "happy" or the tank has perfect conditions. It's an instinct for them to make it. It technically means that they're ready to breed and marking their territory and stuff. Sorry if I sound like a buzzkill but I don't want people to know fake facts and spread them around. :/


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## MadameDesu

:O
I never knew that! 
No problem, thanks for correcting me!!


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## LebronTheBetta

It's OK. And your welcome. At least you know when they want to have babies!


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## Rubyjames

@BETTACHKALOVE: just an update on my fish you were helping out with a few days ago. He still won't eat. The heater just arrived today and I'm working it out right now. I've done two water changes since I got him.. One was a 50 and one was a 100 just like you recommended. Im getting worried about him. Why isn't he eating?? He will hide at loud noises or when I get close to his bowl..


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## BETTACHKALOVE

Can you please remind when did you buy him?
And i think these questions are very important. Is he lethargic or active? I know you are new to fish and might don't know what is betta normal behavior though.And the reason why it important question because a lot of time bettas come sick from the store and might not eat , lethargic and die if you will not treat them. Or a lot of time they can be healthy and don't eat for a wile. And it fine they are just adjusting..
Normal healthy betta usually will swim around pretty much all day. And if they are sleeping , my bettas usually sleeping when the light is deem or sometimes during the day. 
If you think he is lethargic and still don't have any symptoms on his body i would treat him with salt. 

If he is not bloated then i would treat him with aquarium salt. 
Give us update so we can decide...


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## StephieMarie

Hi, I just got my betta, Nova, about a month and a half ago, I'm planning on getting a heater for him since it is getting colder and I've noticed the temp in his bowl is getting even half a degree lower than usual. I was just wondering what other things I should get for him, is there a certain "treat" I can give him? I give him betta pellets two of them a day, and in his bowl he has rocks at the bottom and a plant on the top he likes to hide in the roots. I was wondering if I should get a bigger bowl as well bc it is only a 1 gallon one, and should I get a hiding spot for him? I just want him to be as happy as I can possibly make him.


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## LebronTheBetta

Well, if you want him happy, you should upgrade him to the biggest tank you can get him. A 1 gallon bowl/tank is considered the minimum you should keep the Betta in. A good heater is like this. A good treat is like frozen or live foods such as brine shrimp. Freeze dried foods are also fine. Give treats 1-3x per week. Hiding spots are great since they'll feel stressed if they're in an open area. Welcome to the forum BTW!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydor-THEO-...787?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25727bf34b


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## StephieMarie

Thank you so much!!! I'm quite literally going crazy trying to figure out what to do with him


----------



## sunlight

Since you have him in 1 gall bowl you need to do 1-50% and 1-100% water changes a week or you can do 100% every 4 days.
When you do 100% water changes make sure new water is appropriately(+-2*) the same temperature as his. If you have 1-gall jug you can put water conditioner let water sit for 12-24 hrs this way water will be the same temperature and you don't shock him with temp difference
Also acclimate him. Have him in his changing cup and add new water let him sit for about 10 min then do it again. Do it for a few times this way he will get used to new temp/chemistry. 
I feed them 2 pellets in the morning and 2 pellets at night . Also i give them this:
http://www.google.com/search?q=hika...&sugexp=chrome,mod=4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Those i feed a few times a week. You can give them as a snack (3 worms) or you can feed it instead of the pellets like i do it in the morning (5 worms 2 times a week)
It advised to fast betta once a week to clear out the digestive system and makes sure there isn't any build up.
I know frozen and live food is good source of the protein. I don't feed it though i am afraid they can get parasites from that.


----------



## manami

Hello, I need some help.

is temperature from 82 to 84 a little too hot for day time?
His tank is a 2.65 gallon.
I bought him the marina betta 8W from petsmart (non-adjustable heater) and I don't know if its too hot for him.

Also...i'm a little cunfuse of something else too...to be able to know that a temperature is 80 and above is by looking at the long black horizontal line above the 80 number, right?

___
80 like this?

right now the temperature looks like it's about 82 with an extra small line about the long one.

Please help and thanks!


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## ANHEL123

kind of too warm. I don't like 84*. What temp in your room? If your room 76-80* i would not use that heater. He would be fine in your room temp. Then you can buy adjustable heater. 

2.65 make 1-50% and 1-100% water changes a week. 

When you change his water you need to make sure new water is approx +-2-4* the same as his water. You can let water sit overnight and then just mix room temp with hotter water that you can prepare just before you change him. 
Take time to acclimate your betta. Have him in his changing cup. Add about 15% of the new water to his cup. Let him used to if for about 5-10 min then do it a few more times. This way he get used to new temp/chemistry.

Make sure you cover the cup if you leave him without seeing him. Bettas can jumped out ...even in his tank always leave space between the top of the tank and water level.

Is your thermometer like this? Then there is the long line to the left from 80* which will be 85* then long line to the right which will be 90* and so on. And i guess the lines between short lines it about 2*. 

google.com


----------



## ANHEL123

Also i love this kind of the thermometrs that you can stick on outside of the tank and it very sensative show every 2* right away.


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## manami

I believe the temperature is at 82* right now. The reason I bought the marina betta 8w is because I can't buy the Hydor one everyone is recomending to get online.

And since his tank is in my room and I always turn the A/C on at night I always noticed that the temperature dropped at 70*. That's why I bought the marina 8w heater...

If it heats too hot then I'll just have to turn it off in the moring while I go to work.


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## ANHEL123

Too much flactuation is not good. Or it should be gradual. I take all heater out of my tanks in the summer. My room temp can fluctuate 74 in the morning and 80* sometimes even 82. So it kind of gradual and my bettas are fine. So i would think if you turn heater in his tank of then it fine because the temp will lower gradually. But i would think eventually you need heater especially in the winter to keep temp stable.

Or if his behavior normal and he is active and eating you can leave him in 82 and just do more water changes. I like to do more water changes with warmer temp. I learned the warmer is the water the more chance of the infections. So if you can do 50% -2times and 1-100% a week? 
Make sure food doesn't sink to the bottom and contaminate water.


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## manami

he sometimes stay on to the bottom but if I move my fingers up he quickly swim up and he eats without a problem.

He also likes to flare at the background photo of a lionfish cartoon.

he opens and close his mouths slowly...but repeatly...is that normal? o_o


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## manami

starting tomorrow I can turn off the heater in the morning and when I come back home from work I'll turn it on again and see how he reacts.

oops. I meant to add my next message from above. sorry.


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## ANHEL123

I would say it too much fluctuation. Usually if you change the temperature it should be about a degree or two -1 hr. If your temp during the day will be 70* and then you come home and turn heater on -82*. I think it too fast. No i would not do it. 12* kind too much. It should be really gradual. Like my room in the morning 74* and during the day 82* But it very gradual temp change though.
What is your temp during the day without a/c? 

You wrote he opens and close his mouths slowly...but repeatedly. How often he does it? Is it constantly? Is it looks like he is gasping for air? Does he stay on the bottom all the time or just sometimes ? 
Usually betta is pretty active. At least my bettas they swim all day long but sometimes they rest on the bottom or on the plant during the day or if i turn the light off.

Not sure how long you have him but always add enough water conditioner. It always better to put maybe a little bit more then not enough.


----------



## ANHEL123

just read another post. 84 if he is ok will be fine just keep his water super clean.
Also those are links for adjustable heaters that other people recommended if you ever need it
are you in the U.S.? If so here:

http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-THEO-Sub...rds=hydor+theo 
__________________
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydor-THEO-A...ht_2065wt_1111 __________________
This was the one I bought, check craigslist. That site usually has very cheap stuff, good quality if not used.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydor-THEO-A...#ht_2196wt_822 __________________http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Submersi...=IG0V95N67CXGS

This one or the 25 watt one will work as well. __________________
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=112256 









are you in the U.S.? If so here:

http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-THEO-Sub...rds=hydor+theo 
__________________
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydor-THEO-A...ht_2065wt_1111 __________________
This was the one I bought, check craigslist. That site usually has very cheap stuff, good quality if not used.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydor-THEO-A...#ht_2196wt_822 __________________http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Submersi...=IG0V95N67CXGS

This one or the 25 watt one will work as well. __________________
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=112256


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## RedRaz

This post was very informative! Thanks you! I'm on my way to the pet store to pick up a heater. My poor guy is staying at the the bottom of the tank.


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## BETTACHKALOVE

It can be many reasons why he staying at the bottom of the tank.
How long you have him?
How big is his tank and how much and how often you do water changes.? Did you add water conditioner in his water?
Did you acclimate him?
Any other visual symptoms on the body? Did you just bought him? What is the temperature? Even if the temperature is low like 70-72* it will not make fish lethargic. 
Give us more update.


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## RedRaz

Hello BETTACHKALOVE. I'm Sorry I have already posted about this in the disease emergency section today. Here is the link. Raz my Betta 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.


----------



## furubafan3

Is it worth it to get a filter for a five gallon? I've only had smaller tanks and for this new 5 gallon tank, I'm realizing it's very difficult for me to clean it since it's just so large and heavy. How often do I have to change the water with a filter?


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## LebronTheBetta

Yep, it is. :] The tank would be able to have a stable cycle. Just make sure you have a pH more than 7.0 and you're good to go. If the tank is cycled, then you would only have to do 1 50% change per week, no 100% changes ever. But when you're still cycling the tank, you would have to do 2 50% changes per week until the cycle as finished.


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## ANHEL123

But you also will need to vacuum the gravel every time when you do water changes and swish/rinse filter media regularly.


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## ANHEL123

just want to add something about 5 gall. You can cycle your tank which you need filter for that or you can simply do 50% weekly and 100% every other week. Then you don't need filter. 

I think that some people don't realize that you also need to take care of the filter and vacuum the gravel which is very important.


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## Lindsey19

Hey, I am not new to owning betta fish... but I have never had a tank with a filter or tried out a proper cycling process (with the filter, ammonia, etc) and am very interested in upgrading my betta tank and properly cycling the water with a filter. This is something TOTALLY new for me. Any idea of where to start my research for water cycling. Tips? Comments? Am I in the totally wrong place?


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## ANHEL123

How big is your tank? I don't have filters for any of my tank. I have 2.5 and 5 gall tanks.


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## JillGat

This is my favorite part: 

*Light: This helps when it gets dark.*


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## ANHEL123

it funny you remind me something. I went down stairs at 3 am just to check on them because it was first day when i put the heaters in the tanks and i always afraid overheating. They all were sleeping ,it so cute, i couldn't even find a few of them. I almost get heart attack, i thought they jumped out.


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## titolatino1970

i got a question ok 20 long sorrority tank it was running for 18 month woke up yesturday everyone is dead amonia went trew the roof 2 survivors that are sick what happend i do regular water changes and vacuming can i cycle the tank with amonia and shrimp instead of doseing


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## SnowySurface

titolatino1970 said:


> i got a question ok 20 long sorrority tank it was running for 18 month woke up yesturday everyone is dead amonia went trew the roof 2 survivors that are sick what happend i do regular water changes and vacuming can i cycle the tank with amonia and shrimp instead of doseing


It sounds like your set up had a mini-cycle. Without more info I can't tell what caused it, but if you let the tank continue to run it should re-cycle itself.


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## titolatino1970

i got mad took it down bleched all thinking of npt growout 2 females had gill disease it died the other1 is still alive but quarentine i gave her tetracycline didnt work three bouts of it im leting her chill a bit before i guess maracin i read it doesnt go away she doesnt seen to suffering at all she eats fine still trying to figure out the next move


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## sunlight

not sure what happened but if you give us more details we might figure it out? What are the symptoms? Are you sure it not gill flukes? Were they in the same tank?


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## titolatino1970

i was stupid in my rage i did not test the water she has 1 gill popped out and everyone died except for my giant hmpkpk female she been doin well in her 2.5 gallon quarantine


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## sunlight

But if you doing right water changes it should not happen though. May be in general you need to increase water changes for the tanks. I am kind of confused because if it water issue i think they will not die fast unless you forget water conditioner. And it weird to me that all of them died because it not contagious and i would think every fish will recover differently. So make sure it nothing else though. Not sure how many fish died.
I am glad that your girl doing good. I like super clean water i think it a secret why my betta live long and don't have any problem.
Give us update on your girl, good luck,


----------



## stetez

Thanks for tips and advice


----------



## rangerserena

Any suggestions for a 50 gallon filter that these guys will tollerate?


----------



## hperriperri

Hello Friends
Some things made more easy for you with a personal experience on how you take better care of your betta fighter fish and how you can increase it life span too. Just check out here:
http:/www.altafkhatri.com/FunLearnings/How-to-take-care-of-betta-fighter-fish/betta-fish-increase-life-span/betta-care


----------



## hperriperri

rangerserena said:


> Any suggestions for a 50 gallon filter that these guys will tollerate?


Yes you can easily get the knowledge here:
http://www.altafkhatri.com/FunLearn...fish/betta-fish-increase-life-span/betta-care


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## ANHEL123

rangerserena said:


> Any suggestions for a 50 gallon filter that these guys will tollerate?


 

Check out those two links. It from Oldfishlady. You can put your thread right there for 50 gall and she or other people will help you. It very important to rinse the filter media in the old water WITH a water change regularly. You also need regular weekly water changes with gravel vacuum . I think you can find a lot of helpful in formations there.


http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=107771

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=115758







Good luck.


----------



## katmandew

*New tank owner needs help*

I just joined so I apologize if I'm posting in the wrong place but here goes. My son bought me a 5.5 starter tank from Petsmart for Christmas which comes with a Top Fin 10 Filter, hood with a light and a temperature strip. He also purchased a 25 watt heater. I wanted to be sure I had everything ready before going to get a Betta. I ordered 3 silk plants, bio-gold pellets and a small log on Amazon and bought a GFCI outlet adapter to plug a surge protector in and hung that on the wall to be sure I had drip lines.

Sunday I went to Petsmart and got the gravel, a vacuum gravel, another cave, Top Fin water conditioner and my fish. I was told to clean and rinse all decorations and gravel, fill the tank (with warm water) and add the water conditioner and get things running. I put the temperature strip on the outside of the tank and waited for the temperature to hit 78. I asked about accumulating the fish to the new water and was told I could just put the fish in.

The first couple hours Mr. P hid in the plants and then seemed to come around and started exploring the plants and his cave but didn't want to eat. Monday the water looked hazy to me so I read some things on line and did a 50% water change (added conditioner in the water I replaced). My fish wasn't doing much swimming around, just hanging in the plants.

Tuesday the water looked a little better, the temperature was good but he still didn't want to eat so I removed the one pellet I had put in. The flow of the filter seemed a little strong so I placed one of the plants in front of it to slow it down some and turned it off when I put the pellet in...no go. I did a 20% water change and I also noticed he was swimming to the top taking a breath of air and then sinking.

Today (Wednesday) I noticed he was not active at all just laying in a plant towards the top of the tank every once in awhile taking a breath. I did another 20% change. The water actually doesn't look too bad, much better than it was but unfortunately I got home from work tonight and he was dead 

This really upset me thinking that I let him suffer. I don't know what I did wrong or what I can do before I get another one. I see that it would be wise to get a test kit but I'm not sure how to fix nitrate or ammonia problems even if the kit showed I had a problem. Could someone please tell me exactly what to do to get this tank ready for another fish. This is my first tank and I'm heart broken and ready to give up already. I take directions well so I need EXACT instructions. What was suppose to be something relaxing and enjoyable, has turned into a nightmare. I realize this must sound silly to long time tank owners but I really want this to work.


----------



## twolovers101

First, don't be too upset, things like this happen to even the best of us.
Second, most people are going to tell you to not take the advice of pet store employees as many of them dont really know that much about fish.

I have the same tank you do, and I have opted to not use the filter as my tank is planted, for you, you can use the filter, but it is strong for bettas, so my advice is to baffle it at both the intake with a filter sponge, and the outflow with either a sponge or a plastic baffle made from a water bottle, you can google search instructions on how to make one fairly easily.

You have two options from there when it comes to cycling. 
Cycling is important as it establishies beneficial bacteria (BB) in the filter and sponge that will eat bad things like ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. I'm not an expert on cycling, but here is a good link you can learn a lot from http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838 Also, you're going to need a test kit, API makes a great liquid test that most of us here swear by.

Next, I would suggest getting a high quality food such as omega one betta buffet pellets or new life spectrum pellets, both have a high protein content which is necessary to keep these fish healthy. I would also invest in Prime water conditioner as it is very effective and a little bit goes a long way.

It sounds like you have everything else down pretty good, the heater, your supplies etc. Temp strips aren't really all that accurate, so I would just spring for a glass thermometer that hangs on the inside of your tank, they're about $3 at petsmart

Acclimating your fish: What you need to do when you get a new betta is to let his cup or back sit in the tank water for about 30 minutes, then slowly add water from your tank into his bowl/bag at 10-15 minute intervals for an hour or so (that's what I do with new fish anyway, it may be a bit over kill, but I'm super paranoid about shocking a fish)

I'm sure I left something off, but there are many more knowledgeable people around here than I that I'm sure will be happy to help you. Don't give up! These guys are very sweet rewarding little buggars once you get the hang of it. We all experience a learning curve at some point, so don't get too worked up about it 
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838


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## katmandew

Thank you for your advice. I didn't realize I could go without a filter. I was just reading the post on cycling..argh....I am already driving myself insane with this. Do you think I should clean everything out and start all over doing a fishless cycle? and the person from Petsmart said to do a once a week 25% water change, does that sound right? Also this gravel vac thing looks a little difficult but now would probably be a good time to practice with it.

One other thing what kind of live plants would you recommend and what needs to be done to maintain them? with the live plants do you leave the lid on your tank and use your light? I just ordered the API testing kit and the Prime conditioner


----------



## twolovers101

katmandew said:


> Thank you for your advice. I didn't realize I could go without a filter. I was just reading the post on cycling..argh....I am already driving myself insane with this. Do you think I should clean everything out and start all over doing a fishless cycle? and the person from Petsmart said to do a once a week 25% water change, does that sound right? Also this gravel vac thing looks a little difficult but now would probably be a good time to practice with it.
> 
> One other thing what kind of live plants would you recommend and what needs to be done to maintain them? with the live plants do you leave the lid on your tank and use your light? I just ordered the API testing kit and the Prime conditioner


Bettas are one of those fish where having a filter is totally optional as their long fins can making having a current a tad stressful. I would just wash everything out with very hot water (no soap).

If you stick with the filter and want to do a fish-less cycle, that would be the easiest route for both you and the fish. When you cycle a tank you have to do water tests almost daily and do water changes whenever there is a large spike in ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate. Usually those changes will be 50%. Once your tank is cycled then you can do 25% weekly changes but it's still a good idea to do a test once a week. 

Gravel vacs can take a bit of getting used to, so when you do your changes while you're cycling it'd be helpful to practice 

If you choose to go the planted route there are tons of options open to you, this thread http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=114575 has a lot of good information.

Some good beginner plants are: anacharis, water wisteria, hornwort, java moss, java fern, marimo moss balls, and anubias

Light wise, you're going to want to get a 6500K CFL (compact fluorescent) bulb I think the wattage rating on the hood is 13 W, I found a 10W 6500k CFL bulb at walmart that has been working amazingly well for me.
If you do the full planted route, then you will need to do roughly 25-50% water changes until your tank can maintain itself. One member who is very knowledgeable about planted tanks, Old Fish Lady, will tell you that if you get enough of the right plants then you will be able to create a self-sustaining environment and not need to do water changes at all. Though some people still do it out of habit.

Lastly, don't be afraid to ask questions, you can never ask too many, and it's better to be well informed than confused


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## katmandew

Wow this is a lot to take in! I found how to do a baffle for the filter so I think for now until I know what I'm doing, I'll stick with the filter and the decorations I already have. As soon as the test kit and conditioner arrive I will clean everything and start over and cycle the tank before getting another fish. Meanwhile I can practice with the gravel vacuum. 

Thank you again for all your help, it's very much appreciated!!


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## twolovers101

You're welcome  good luck!


----------



## sunlight

If you don't want to cycle i don't blame you. I don't cycle my 5 gall tank because it a pain for me. You can just do 1-50 and 1-100% water changes every 8 days. 
Also i would suggest to wash the tank with hot water very well and let it completely dry out. Just in case if he was sick already and might had parasites since he was going to the top and gasping for air. Sometimes they do that for the reason if they have gill flukes. He probably didn't but just to be safe. So just rinse it and let it dry out for about a week. It will kill any parasites if there ware any. Do the same with everything(gravel , decorations etc....). If you have live plants you need to put it in the water with NO water conditioner for about 2 weeks.
If you ever buy live plants always quarantine it the same way. I would advice to buy new betta and also quarantine it for a week or even more before you put him in the tank , so you don't end up with disinfection tank again and everything in the tank. Or at least you can put him in the tank without gravel and decorations. When you buy a betta may be wait untill they get new shipment or at least don't buy if they have a few left from current shipment. Just check for any symptoms of disease. We can give you tips on that if you want. 
When you will go buy a betta take your water and let them check it. They will do it for free. Just make sure your water is ok . Some people have ammonia in the water , high ph or other issues. And i would really advice to buy water conditioner Prime by Seachem . It the best water conditioner in case you have problem with your water.
Also like you wrote the people at the store gave you advice just to put betta in the water without acclimation. It can be the reason that betta will be very stressed and in some cases even die if you shock him with drastic temperature difference. So when you put betta in the new tank with new water you need to acclimate him.
To acclimate i personally use aged water so it easier for me. Or i have my betta in his changing cup which you can use original container he came in and with 1/4 of the water and slowly every 5 min add new water and let him . Do it for about 5 times so this way he will acclimate to the new water temperature. Always put lid so he don't jump . Bettas are very good jumpers and there is a lot of accidents them to jump out.


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## katmandew

Thank you Sunlight. After reading the whole post on soil based tanks (Twolovers provided the link) I was thinking of going with live plants until I reread posts about cycling. I would hate to get rid of the set up I have since I spent a good deal of money on it. I already ordered the Prime and the API test kit and both should be here tomorrow or Saturday.

I am going to clean everything the way you and Twolovers suggested and start over. I AM going to buy a thermometer to keep an eye on the temperature. The 25 watt heater is adjustable so that's all good. And I totally agree with what you said about buying the fish when the new shipment comes in. 

I've decided to be patient and do the fishless cycle using a couple drops of ammonia and watching everything for a couple weeks or however long it takes to make sure the water is ready. I still feel terrible that I killed my first fish from lack of experience, but I'm so happy I found this site. I've learned a lot already and thank you for your help


----------



## sockergirlie

Thanks so much for all the info!!! It was extremely helpful!! Turns out my Betta wasn't all that active because he was cold!! Now swims around way more and is way more comfortable


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## gandy78

My heater is a preset heate and only staying at 74 degrees. Is this bad. They seem to be happy.


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## katmandew

I thoroughly cleaned my tank and decorations yesterday and about 8 hours ago I refilled it and added a couple drops of ammonia to start a fishless cycle. Referring back to my original post on here, this is my first tank and due to some misinformation by Petsmart my first Betta died in three days  From the good people on here I learned to cycle my tank first and to purchase the API Mater test kit. I just did the tests just to see and I'm wondering how can my results be so good? Am I testing to early? should I have waited 24 hours? It looks like the ammonia is on the .25 side, PH test was 7.6, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?


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## Kbud

I have a question: Aside from feeding my betta splendens Aqueon Betta pellets, I want to mix it up: would freeze-dried bloodworms and sun dried baby shrimp work? Is it guaranteed that a betta will eat a little snail, or is it only when it is in the mood. I'm just worried that if I got a little one it might not be eaten and repeatedly reproduce. It was horrible! Snails we everywhere when I had a Dwarf African Frog!

Also, I have plants, will this be sufficent to decompose waste for fertilizer or is a snail recommended? They are tiny cuttings I am trying to grow back. What are some types of snails that do not reproduce when they want to - one snail stays one snail!


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## Kbud

Thanks so much for the advice, BTW!


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## Tikibirds

Freeze dried foods are OK but frozen ones are better for them. As long as you don't over feed them, or feed them too often you are good to go. 

Nerite snails may be a good choice if you want a snail companion. I believe their eggs only hatch in salt water.


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## Kbud

Cool! I just want to make sure I don't have another snail apocalypse. It was NOT PRETTY!!!


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## bryzy

I use freeze dried and frozen foods as treats and not main foods..... too much FD and frozen have caused my bettas to bloat.


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## MrBubbles

why is my veiltail betta fish only eat when i'm not around,and why does it only flare at the mirror for a fraction of a second then move on. I considering getting a cave but i think the 2 1/2 centimeter holes will scratch MR. Bubbles.
And can someone help me, can you find a marble betta at walmart or petco i think their gorgeous


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## Kbud

Thanks! Mr. Bubbles, sorry, I can't help you much. I'm a newb too.


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## Katmassive

I think this post saved my its life. I didnt know anything about Bettas before reading this i did notice he wasnt eating and i found out from this that one he was freezing still is i add warm water to his tank every now and again he is in a .3 gallon so i have to get a 2gallon hawkeye delivered he still needs a heater


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## Kbud

That's great for you Katmassive! Personally, my guy seems fine without a heater, but I do need to get a thermometer.


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## Katmassive

well my guy the stick on thermometer says 68 when i don't have my oscillating room heater on him so i think it might be best to get him one i live in New England its always very cold and he is more active when he is warm so i think it would be good to get a heater.


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## Myates

It is best.. exposure to cold water over a long period of time can cause lethargy/slow metabolism, lowered immune system, etc. He will appreciate a heater very much so


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## Kbud

So you can keep a betta at the same temperature as other tropical fish, like neon tetras, angelfish, all those that require a heater, etc...


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## gumdropluv1

Thank you do much! This was really helpful and im pretty sure the blue water is used to keep them healthy.


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## hperriperri

These tips are very helpful. But for the personally experienced tips and better care for betta please visit
http://www.altafkhatri.com/FunLearn...fish/betta-fish-increase-life-span/betta-care


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## Hutton13

My fish is starting to turn silver. And i just got it. Is it becaus the water is too cold?


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## royal

It could either be him showing his true colouration (most likely) a jumping gene or something is wrong. Check your water with a test kit.


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## FishyKiss

Ack! My daughter and I just bought a Betta today, an I got it a one gallon bowl so it would be light enough for her to lift it and change the water on her own. Guess it will end up being a backup bowl. I didn't want to start with a full setup if she might not remain interested. I've had aquariums and ended up keeping my Betta in a small bowl because the other fish attacked him. He lived in a tiny 3 cup bowl for 3 years! Now I feel bad, and was thinking the one gallon bowl was a good start. Well, give us a little time and we will get a better aquarium. It will be fun, and things seemed to have changed a bit since 20 years ago!


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## FishFish

Hi I am new to this site so forgive me if I am posting in the wrong forum but I have an urgent question about my betta. 

Size of tank is 1.5
Male betta just got him last month, a walmart rescue
The temperature when i got him was 68 degrees and he was lively and swiming everywhere. Got the filter and he was still doing great. Then I bought a heater for 2-15 galleon and the temperature is at 74 degrees. With the heater in I took the filter out and the tank looks cloudy and Fish has just stopped moving much. He isnt swiming around everywhere just lays at the bottom of the tank. He does have a white fin but its not fuzzy or anything, just a white fin. 

Any help? I took the heater out and am going to put the filter back in. Also I have been using distilled water.


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## katmandew

FishFish said:


> Hi I am new to this site so forgive me if I am posting in the wrong forum but I have an urgent question about my betta.
> 
> Size of tank is 1.5
> Male betta just got him last month, a walmart rescue
> The temperature when i got him was 68 degrees and he was lively and swiming everywhere. Got the filter and he was still doing great. Then I bought a heater for 2-15 galleon and the temperature is at 74 degrees. With the heater in I took the filter out and the tank looks cloudy and Fish has just stopped moving much. He isnt swiming around everywhere just lays at the bottom of the tank. He does have a white fin but its not fuzzy or anything, just a white fin.
> 
> Any help? I took the heater out and am going to put the filter back in. Also I have been using distilled water.


I'm no expert but you should probably change at least 50% of the water and you need to use water conditioner. I don't think using distilled water is a wise choice but if that's all you've been using than I guess it's been working for you. Keep the filter in, change the water and get water conditioner like Prime. I have to say I've never heard of using a filter in a 1.5 gallon bowl but again if it works then by all means continue using it and think about upgrading to at least a 5 gallon tank.

Good luck


----------



## rubinthebetta

FishFish said:


> Hi I am new to this site so forgive me if I am posting in the wrong forum but I have an urgent question about my betta.
> 
> Size of tank is 1.5
> Male betta just got him last month, a walmart rescue
> The temperature when i got him was 68 degrees and he was lively and swiming everywhere. Got the filter and he was still doing great. Then I bought a heater for 2-15 galleon and the temperature is at 74 degrees. With the heater in I took the filter out and the tank looks cloudy and Fish has just stopped moving much. He isnt swiming around everywhere just lays at the bottom of the tank. He does have a white fin but its not fuzzy or anything, just a white fin.
> 
> Any help? I took the heater out and am going to put the filter back in. Also I have been using distilled water.


Maybe if you made a thread in the emergencies and diseases section, more people would be able to help you.


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## royal

I jave a heater and a filter in a 1.5 gallon, and romeo loves it! But he's still being upgraded this weekend....


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## Bombalurina

Kbud said:


> So you can keep a betta at the same temperature as other tropical fish, like neon tetras, angelfish, all those that require a heater, etc...


Not strictly true.  They can all live in similar temperatures, but have different optimum ranges, e.g. neons like it at 76-78, bettas at 78-82, etc.


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## chicklette

I clean my beta's 2.5 gallon tank completely every 8 days. I run all plants, her house, heater and filter and all the gravel under warm tap water. I put a splash of white vinegar in her empty tank, fill it with water and use a bottle cleaning thing to scrub the entire tank with, then rinse it 6-8 times in the shower. Then I refill the tank with decorations (same ones, except for 1 or 2 different ones), put tap water in, conditioner, and plug the heater back in. When the water reaches the high 70's, I graduaiiy add her new aquarium water to the temporary tank she is in. I add water every 15 minutes for 1 hour. My question is I bought some aquarium salts because I thought she had swim bladder. She is fine now, but should I use the salts in place of the vinegar, rinse them out, or add them to her tank?


----------



## Stone

AQ salt is for external problem not swim bladder disorder, that would be epsom salt, you do not want to use AQ salt unless you need to so the bacteria that cause things like fin rot and so on do not get a tolerance to it.


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## chicklette

Ok, thanks for clearing that up for me. I read on the label that it is also used as a preventive, I guess that's just more miss informed stuff the pet stores tell everyone.


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## Stone

yw and make sure the epsom salt is fragrance free and has nothing added to it


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## chicklette

I know, that's why I had to wait. The fragrance free was sold out. They ordered more fragrance free epsom salts. It will be available tomorrow.


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## D359

chicklette said:


> I clean my beta's 2.5 gallon tank completely every 8 days. I run all plants, her house, heater and filter and all the gravel under warm tap water. I put a splash of white vinegar in her empty tank, fill it with water and use a bottle cleaning thing to scrub the entire tank with, then rinse it 6-8 times in the shower. Then I refill the tank with decorations (same ones, except for 1 or 2 different ones), put tap water in, conditioner, and plug the heater back in. When the water reaches the high 70's, I graduaiiy add her new aquarium water to the temporary tank she is in. I add water every 15 minutes for 1 hour. My question is I bought some aquarium salts because I thought she had swim bladder. She is fine now, but should I use the salts in place of the vinegar, rinse them out, or add them to her tank?


Please clarify what I have been doing. I have a 2.5 mini bow tank, when its time to change the water I have been doing is running the tap water into my brita then pour into two pots, let sit for two days then pour into tank, then add water conditioner. Should I avoid the brita part and pour tap water into pots let sit for two days then pour into tank or just add the tap water directly into tank, condition then put fish in?


----------



## caissacrowntails

D359 said:


> Please clarify what I have been doing. I have a 2.5 mini bow tank, when its time to change the water I have been doing is running the tap water into my brita then pour into two pots, let sit for two days then pour into tank, then add water conditioner. Should I avoid the brita part and pour tap water into pots let sit for two days then pour into tank or just add the tap water directly into tank, condition then put fish in?


I think, whether you need to run the water into brita (it's a filter system, right?) will depends on the tap water quality. but in any case, letting the water "sit" for 2 days certainly better than adding the water directly into the tank


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## D359

Thank you Cassa, I will continue to filter into the Brita then sit for 2 days.


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## bannlow2471

Ok I have a question. Previously my male veil tail was in. 2.5 gallon filtered tank. When I would do water changes I would cup him in the same cup he came in and then do 100 changes of the remaining water, rinse plants and substrate, rinse out the tank itself, then replace plants and substrate, fill the tank with pre conditioned water, then float cupped fish for about 30 minutes before releasing him. 

Since I got the 5 gallon it's taken me awhile to figure out the routine. For one thing, initially (a week or so after setting up the tank) had two African Dwarf frogs in there but quickly figured out that the fish and the frogs were not super compatible, and additionally that the bioload was too high for that tank. I really should probably have had at least a 10 gallon. Anyway that lasted a week and it became clear that the frogs needed to go. So they did. Since then I did one major overhaul after the frogs vacated (100% water change, emptied out and rinsed all so substrate and plants, etc.).

Last week I did a stir of the substrate and turkey bastered any debris and then did a 50% water change with the fish still in the tank. The reason I did it this way is because the additional horizontal space afforded by the larger tank allowed for increased room to maneuver without feeling like I was going to injure or stress Murray. When I added the water I did so slowly by using the turkey baster and siphoning the clean and conditoned water in slowly so i wouldn't shock him. I then did the same this week except I removed the substrate (I use the larger, naturally colored rocks from the fish section ...they're smooth so they won't damage his fins and I like them because when I was removing them weekly for cleaning they were a lot easier to deal with than sand or gravel) instead of doing a stir snd skim. I didn't remove all of it, just enough to be able to see if there was any crud hiding at the bottom, which I sucked out, rinsed the substrate and replaced it, and then I rinsed the plants and replaced those and then added some new ones. Through all this, Murray seemed very relaxed, and I would prefer to continue doing things more or less this way until or unless a 100% change is necessary. He seemed way less stressed than he does when I have to cup and remove him. So my question is ... is this ok? How do those of you with tanks of 5 gallons and above handle water maintenance?


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## chicklette

When I do a partial water change on Jewel's 2.5 tank very much the same way you do yours - I leave her in the tank and siphon stuff out, , except while it is siphoning, I stir up the gravol which causes the "crud" to be exposed.


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## avraptorhal

Thanks for all the requirements in one place. I'm using it as the outline for establishing my Betta tank.


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## Kittiekins

What would be the levels of GH, KH, PH, NO2, and NO3 be? I can't seem to find them anywhere


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## Kupo27

I just want to thank everyone on here for all their help! Before I got my pretty boy I was looking for information on the internet regarding care and this forum was the most informative I could find! Thanks so much!


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## puplove52

That's not true that bettas can't live on flake food. My betta eats Tetramin Tropical flakes and he's beautiful. My betta does great with a heat lamp, one gallon bowl, Flake food, and weekly water changes. This care info is overrated.


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## marie0827

I just got my first fish for my daughter it is a male betta named rainbow. I have a few questions that I hope someone can help me with. I have a 5.5 gallon tank he in with the whistler 3i filter in the tank. How often should I change the water? How often should I change the filter cartridge? When should I test the levels and what should I use to test them? What does it mean to cycle my tank and is it necessary to cycle a tank if I change the water often. I'm really confused about the cycle thing. I would also like to know how much I should feed him. I read as much as he can eat in 2 minutes 2 times a day, but his stomach gets bloated and he sometimes spits it out when I do that. I only give him 1 pellet at a time for the 2 minutes that I feed him. I would greatly appreciate it if someone could answer these questions. I am new to owning a fish. I am also new to this site so I hope I put this in the right spot. Thanks


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## avraptorhal

I wish I could help but I'm just start on Betta myself. Hang in there, it'll get easier.


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## MattsBettas

puplove52, keeping your fish like that is the human equivalent of living in your bedroom for your entire life, turning off the furnace at night, and eating pizza every meal of everyday. They may be able to survive on flake food, but flake food (and the brand that you mentioned) is full of filler and is completely unnatural. You may think this care info is overrated but, as a breeder, a owner, and a hobbyist, I can tell you that it is not.


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## ANHEL123

chicklette said:


> I clean my beta's 2.5 gallon tank completely every 8 days. I run all plants, her house, heater and filter and all the gravel under warm tap water. I put a splash of white vinegar in her empty tank, fill it with water and use a bottle cleaning thing to scrub the entire tank with, then rinse it 6-8 times in the shower. Then I refill the tank with decorations (same ones, except for 1 or 2 different ones), put tap water in, conditioner, and plug the heater back in. When the water reaches the high 70's, I graduaiiy add her new aquarium water to the temporary tank she is in. I add water every 15 minutes for 1 hour. My question is I bought some aquarium salts because I thought she had swim bladder. She is fine now, but should I use the salts in place of the vinegar, rinse them out, or add them to her tank?


When you do full water change your really do not need a filter. For 2.5 gall you can just do 1-50 and 1-100% water changes. Acclimate betta with 100% water changes, look like you know that. If your betta healthy you really don't need to use vinegar after every change really. 
You don't need to use salt on regular basis until you need to treat him. Aquarium salt long term its doesn't prevent disease or parasites and long term use can cause resistant pathogens/parasites issues and kidney damage....and long term non-therapeutic dosage can limit it ability to work for treatment when needed
Aquarium salt for injuries,wounds,ext parasites,fin damage/rot (not plant tolerant)

Epsom salt for buoyancy issues,swim bladder problems,constipation, helps but not treat with internal parasites,pop eye,dropsy (plant tolerant)
Both have a antibacterial/fungal effect
Both can be use in doses of 1tsp/gall up to 3tsp/gall depending on what/why you treating . Always pre mix it and make sure it dissolved before you adding it . Do daily water changes if he is in the hospital tank (100%)


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## ANHEL123

marie0827 said:


> I just got my first fish for my daughter it is a male betta named rainbow. I have a few questions that I hope someone can help me with. I have a 5.5 gallon tank he in with the whistler 3i filter in the tank. How often should I change the water? How often should I change the filter cartridge? When should I test the levels and what should I use to test them? What does it mean to cycle my tank and is it necessary to cycle a tank if I change the water often. I'm really confused about the cycle thing. I would also like to know how much I should feed him. I read as much as he can eat in 2 minutes 2 times a day, but his stomach gets bloated and he sometimes spits it out when I do that. I only give him 1 pellet at a time for the 2 minutes that I feed him. I would greatly appreciate it if someone could answer these questions. I am new to owning a fish. I am also new to this site so I hope I put this in the right spot. Thanks


5.5 gall tank with a filter needs 50% water changes weekly with gravel vacuuming and filter media rinse/swish in the old water with a water change. 

Never follow directions on the food container about feeding. It so wrong i am not sure why they write those recommendations. The best recommended food is New Life Spectrum, Omega One Betta Pellets ,then Aqueon betta food. Do not buy Tetra pellets. Food that ingredients start with wheat,corn,soy bean,etc) can be constipating
New Life Spectrum are really small pellets so you can give him 3 pellets x 2 times a day. If pellets are bigger i wold give 2 twice a day. You can give him a snack freeze dried blood worms , i like Hikari kind -it enriched with vitamins.


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## ANHEL123

puplove52 said:


> That's not true that bettas can't live on flake food. My betta eats Tetramin Tropical flakes and he's beautiful. My betta does great with a heat lamp, one gallon bowl, Flake food, and weekly water changes. This care info is overrated.


For one gallon bowl make sure you do 2-50% and 1-100% water changes. Or you can just do 2-100% water changes. Make sure you acclimate your betta to the new water temperature so you don't shock him with drastic temp change.
Acclimation: There are a few ways. I will just copy and post it for you from another thread:

He can have betta in the changing cup with about 15% of the water and keep adding small amount of the new water about every 5 min for about 5-6 times -this way you he will get used to the temperature Sorry i know there is a few more ways to acclimate .

There are many ways to do a water change and acclimate (reintroduce) your fish back into the tank. Here is one variation that's pretty simple:
Note the temperature of the water.

Using a plastic cup, scoop him, along with some of his water, into the cup.
Clean out the tank. Refill with water at the SAME temp. Be sure to add the correct amount of water conditioner.
Float his cup in the tank for about 15 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
Add a SMALL amount of NEW water to the cup. (Several tablespoons, or about 1.5 ounces.)
Let his cup float for about 10 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
If the cup starts to fill too much, remove a SMALL amount of water from the cup. Discard it.
Repeat steps 5-7, until about an hour has passed. (If he sits longer because you're studying, that's OK.)
Gently release him into the tank.
__________________

Big water changes should have careful acclimation like this:

Quote:
To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.
__________________


FOOD:

Flakes cause swim bladder issues more readily than most pellets. You should be using a high quality protein based pellet with the first two or three ingredients as whole fish not fishmeal or wheat. The flakes will also muck up his water quickly and if you're not running a cycled tank that means ammonia builds up much more quickly. Check out the most recommended pellets from my previous thread.

Also be aware that bettas are very good jumpers so if you don't have the lid for your tank always leave the space between the water level and top of the tank, the same when you change him cover the net, or the cup you lure him in.


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## chicklette

Yes, thank you Anhel.
I just found out that it isn't necessary to use vinegar every time I clean Jewel's tank, in fact, it couldtake away too much bbeneficial bacteria, so I think I'll just use plain old shower water, and use the vinegar to clean with once a month. I read about the salts in the beta diseases forum page before, but thanks for reminding me about them.


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## marie0827

Oh wow Iam really over feeding him. Thanks ANHEL123


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## puplove52

Matt's Bettas- I have a very healthy betta. Vibrant colors, never stops swimming (unless he is a sleep), and eats every bit of his food. The way I care for him is perfect. This thread is overrated.


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## MattsBettas

puplove52- The way you care for him is far from perfect. I have over a hundred bettas and years of experience, so I can tell you that you are taking improper care of him. Why you would not try to take the best care possible of your pets (that rely on you) I don't know. Lets see how long he lives under your care, shall we? And you spelled my name wrong.


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## LittleNemo

Hey All, we're totally new to this & realizing we might not be fully prepared! (Please be kind).

We just bought a Betta today for our three year old, he's currently in a ten gallon tank with no heater - the more I read online, the more I worry we're going to wake up to a fish that's gone belly up. 

More about our Betta, we bought him at PetCo, he's a male double fin, he seemed pretty active in his little bowl he came in. We filled the tank with tap (well) water & checked the pH: 6.8, his bowl was 7.2. We put his bowl into the tank for 30min to acclimate him to the temp (tank was 82, no idea what his bowl was). Then we slowly transitioned his water, 25% tank water added to bowl, let sit for 30min, then 75% tank water added to bowl, let sit for 30min, then we set him free in the tank. He seemed to enjoy it, swam around the three plants we have in there and hid behind a coffee cup when he needed a break. 

We have a thermometer on the outside of the tank and it reads 82, but I'm worried the water temp is going to drop dramatically overnight with no heater & kill our 'Little Nemo'

Any advice?


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## WaffleSire

LittleNemo, you're all good. If the thermometer reads 82, then you should be fine for now, because that's a good temperature. Try wrapping the tank up in a towel or something, and keeping it in the warmest room in the house, if you're worried it'll cool. You can get him a heater tomorrow. No betta will keel over and die if it doesn't have a heater for a few hours, at the most he'll be a bit lethargic, but a heater will fix that. Good luck! c:


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## ANHEL123

If you have temperature 82*- it gradually will dropped over night. I have it all the time in the summer. Because it gradual it fine. Do you have filter in the tank? Did you use water conditioner. It still good idea to add water conditioner even with well water.
I am going to give you the link about water changes. For 10 gall without filter do 50% weekly and 100% every 3 weeks. Vacuum the gravel with siphon. Rinse siphon with hot and then warm water and let it air dry so it not rotting inside .

When you feed take out uneaten food out so it don't sink to the bottom and contaminate the water.
Please read my acclimation instructions from above post. And also check my post about food post #390 of this thread.
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=115758

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=142066


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## LittleNemo

Thanks WaffleSire & Anhel123! I just went down to check on him & the water had dropped to 78, he was either sleeping or totally lethargic. I wrapped the sides of the tank with a big beach towel and he moved around a bit. I've become so attached to the little guy in these few hours of getting to know him, I hope he doesn't die 
I do not have a filter, thanks for the link & other tips.


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## ANHEL123

Hey how he doing. He can not be lethargic because of the temperature. 76 is perfect temperature so 78* is fine. I will give you link about temperature later so you have idea. He might be sleeping or something went wrong. How he doing? Did you buy water conditioner? I would put water conditioner in his water. And if you don't have it i would buy Prime by Seachem it the best. If you can't find buy stress coat Api. Give us update. If it something wrong i would make new thread so more people can see your thread and help.


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## LittleNemo

Hey! LittleNemo is still swimming around, despite his water temp dropping to 71. Our pet store was closed yesterday so we're heading out this morning to get a heater & water conditioner. What exactly does water conditioner do?
His tank is a touch cloudy this morning, not sure why.
As far as him being lethargic, sometimes I peek in on him and he is very very still floating up near the top of the tank on the side. It's definitely scared me a few times thinking he had died. 

Anything else I should pick up while we're at the pet store?


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## Sakura8

Water conditioner detoxifies chlorine, chloramines, and (depending on the water conditioner) heavy metals, ammonia, and nitrite/nitrate. I recommend Seachem Prime.

This thread will now be closed, however, while we are in the process of upgrading the information in it. Thank you for understanding.


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