# High Nitrite Levels - Advice Needed



## RaisingBarney (Mar 17, 2014)

Hello!

I'm a beginner betta fish keeper, who rescued a betta from my roommate, who was keeping it in a vodka bottle because he liked the look of it and had been told by the petco associate that it was fine to do that and the fish didnt need a filter or plants because they're used to living in tiny jars. (I feel like finding that petco guy and giving him a piece of my mind.). My roommate went away on spring break and asked me to feed it. I took one look at it and thought... that can't be right, and then did about five hours of research, went to petco and bought it a 2.5 gallon tank/filter combo, a heater, live plants, rocks, freeze dried brine shrimp, water conditioner, ect. Barney is much happier now, however I didn't realize there was such a thing as a Nitrate Cycle until I had set the tank up and put him in.

I immediately purchased the API Freshwater Master Test Kit, and ammo lock, and several days ago, API Leaf Zone to aid the plants. The ammonia levels were super high my first test, as was PH, which makes sense given thats the first stage. I changed the water 25% three times a day for the first week, and then dropped to 1/3 water change every day. I feed him just before the water change and scoop out any tiny bits of brine shrimp left floating on the top of the water so as not to add to the ammonia. We're at exactly four weeks since he and and plants went into the tank. 
My test now shows PH at 6.0, ammonia at .25ppm (I always add a bit of ammo lock in addition to the water conditioner, when changing water to ensure he's comfortable while this cycle progresses), nitrite at 5.0ppm (!!!!), and nitrate at 0ppm. 

Here we come to the question. Obviously the first part of the cycle is working since the ammonia is almost at a safe level and much down from where it was. However, the nitrite to nitrate doesn't seem to be happening and that's what has me worried. API advises their NITRA-ZORB to remove the nitrite from the water, as well as API Stress Zyme to help speed the development of the biological filter. They also say that adding API Aquarium Salt will reduce the toxicity of the nitrate while the cycle establishes itself. 

I am wondering if these levels are normal for this stage of the cycle (four weeks in) and we just need to keep doing the water changes every day to keep them as low as possible, or if perhaps something isn't working right. The nitrite to nitrate just doesn't seem to be happening and I'm wondering if that will just take more time, or if there is something I need to do regarding the plants or some such to get that going.

Any advice would be great. I'm feeling a little overwhelmed because I feel like I don't know very much about what I'm doing, but I am determined to keep this little guy alive.

Barney and I appreciate any help we can get. (He's a very active fish and has made several bubble nests since being put in a real tank. He also plays fish games with my finger on the outside of the glass.)

Thank you very much!


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## keepsmiling (May 19, 2013)

Do a large water change to reduce the nitrites & get and use Seachem Prime to dechlorinate,and in case of high levels until you accomplish the water change{will reduce amm,nitrite,nitrates for 24 hrs..}
Buy some better food. I do not recommend freeze dried food. Get New Life Spectrum or Hikari pellets.
Quit the leaf zone, ammo lock, and any other additives except Prime. No salt needed. For the future, look into buying some quality Indian Almond Leaves.


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## RaisingBarney (Mar 17, 2014)

Hmm I appreciate the advice, but the plants were dying before I began the Leaf Zone, they're now much happier, green, and growing new leaves. I know I'm new to this, but I can't imagine that Leaf Zone is doing any harm. I did read on the forum that others use it and recommend it.

I'm sort of surprised by your response here because the products that I am using were recommending by others on this forum as well as betta keeping websites. I will definitely look into Seachem Prime tho, because it does sound like a good product.

I was really hoping to get an answer about whether the cycle is progressing normally or not.

Thanks!


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## keepsmiling (May 19, 2013)

Just rereading your first post. How come there are leftover brine shrimp? If there are, feed less at one time.
I just do not go overboard with ferts anymore in my betta tanks. I keep easy keepers like small swords, anubias, bucephalandras,crypts, and a few others. I find too much fooling with ferts causes algae issues. At least for me. My plants grow slow but stay looking good with just some root tabs every few months and the waste from my fish and snails.
However, if you like the results you are seeing from this leaf stuff that is all good. Just remember right now you are trying to cycle the tank, so should be concentrating on that and cautious what you add. Once the cycle is complete you are good to go. 2.5 gallons does not give much room for error.
I also keep a 2.5 gallon, and a five gallon that is not completely full due to riparium plants.
The PH is a bit low, are you sure of it? Is that the reading you get straight from the tap? Your cycle should be complete very soon. It can happen overnight.
You just don't want to expose the fish to any extreme levels. It's very hard on them and can kill them.


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## fidget (Aug 18, 2013)

^^^ all of that stuff. 

The second type of bacteria- the one that converts nitrite to nitrate takes longer to show up and establish. It's different for everyone, depending on the water conditions where you live.
For me, nitrite spiked for about five days or so, then nitrates showed up. You can use Prime to detoxify nitrite until it happens.
A low pH can inhibit bacterial growth...it might make the cycle take longer. I'm not 100% sure, but I think ammo lock might lower pH. Prime takes care of ammonia and nitrite though, and that's the only thing I used while my tanks were cycling.


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## fidget (Aug 18, 2013)

Also, good for you for getting that fish out of a vodka bottle!! I don't know why anyone thinks that's ok...


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