# Sticky  CYCLING: the two-sentence tutorial



## Hallyx

*Change half the water when either ammonia or nitrite approach 0.50ppm, or weekly, whichever comes first. Add Prime at 2-drops per gallon of tank size every day until cycled.*

That’s all you have to do. You can stop reading now. But there’s a lot of information packed into those sentences. So let’s go over it again –- slowly.

*Change half the water...*

Removing water is most easily done with a siphon, also known as a gravel vacuum. Although a _clean_, new turkey baster will also work. Suck up as much old food, plant debris and feces as you can conveniently. Replace with water of the same temperature (within a few degrees either way). Add Prime to the tank just before refilling. You don’t have to “age” the water except in special conditions. See _pH matching_ – below.

*when either ammonia or nitrite approach 0.50ppm...*

You need a water test kit to get these readings. Liquid tests are considered more consistently accurate than test strips, and they are cheaper per test. Most fish-keepers use the API master test kit ( [ame="http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/"]







[/ame] Amazon.com: API Freshwater Master Test Kit: Pet Supplies) 
which contains the tests you need. Test every day until you learn how fast ammonia builds up in your tank. (*ppm* is parts per million.)

You also need a filter to cycle a tank. Cycling bacteria need oxygen and water flow. A filter is the best and easiest way to provide both. Do not rinse or replace the filter during the cycle.

Some keepers prefer to change 25% of the water when ammonia approaches 0.25ppm. A 25% water change is more appropriate for tanks larger than 8-gallons.

*or weekly, whichever comes first.*

A weekly 50% water change with vacuuming is part of recommended tank maintenance. If ammonia and nitrite stay below 0.50ppm the tank goes onto the weekly water-change schedule. 

*Add Prime at 2-drops per gallon of tank size every day...*

This is IMPORTANT: Prime water conditioner (by Seachem) detoxifies ammonia and nitrite in the tank so it will not endanger your fish. This protection goes away within 48 hours, so it is necessary to add more Prime. Seachem recommends 2-drops/gal of tank size with water changes. A further dose of 2-drops/gal every day keeps the protection fresh. 

Other water conditioners that detoxify ammonia include API AmmoLock and Kordon Amquel+. Water conditioners must clearly state they detoxify or otherwise deal with ammonia. If you're not sure, check with us before you buy.

*until cycled.*

The tank is cycled when ammonia reads 0.0ppm, nitrite reads 0.0ppm and nitrate increases slightly between water changes. Afterwards, you only have to add Prime during weekly water changes.

*Maintenance*

A weekly 50% water change is a good habit to get into. While you’re at it, vacuum the substrate to remove solid waste, rotting food, etc. A weekly partial water change also dilutes nitrate, removes dissolved waste and replaces minerals used up by your fish and plants. Every few weeks, rinse the filter media in the water removed from the tank during the water change -- not in untreated tapwater.

*Why cycle?*

Fish and other aquatic animals produce ammonia as a by-product of living. Rotting food, plant debris, feces and other organics also produce ammonia. Ammonia is harmful or deadly if allowed to build-up in the tank. Cycling bacteria remove ammonia, providing the healthiest, safest water conditions for your fish. Creating a 'nitrogen cycle' in the tank is how you build bacteria colonies big enough to 'eat' all the ammonia.

The nitrogen cycle can take anywhere from two weeks to two months to complete.
*
Fish-in? Fishless?*

The above instructions are for a “fish-in” cycle which uses the ammonia produced by your fish to feed the cycling bacteria and to grow the bacteria colonies. Since Betta produce so little ammonia (low-bioload), smaller colonies are enough. You need only enough bacteria to eat all the ammonia. In fact, that’s what get with fish-in cycling – just the right amount of bacteria. 

“Fishless” cycling means that _you_ provide the ammonia to feed the growing colonies. You can raise very large bacteria colonies using this method. If you’re planning to stock large fish or many fish at once this may be the way to go.

*Tank size*

Any size tank from 2-gallons on up can be cycled using this method. The smaller 2- and 3- gallon tanks do require extra care and close monitoring, as ammonia can build up pretty fast, sometimes. Test every day, and always be ready to do a 50% water change with Prime if ammonia rises above 0.50ppm.

*Bacteria*

Two types of bacteria are involved in the “nitrogen cycle.” One kind (Nitrosomonas) oxidizes harmful ammonia and turns it into nitrite. The other (Nitrospira) oxidizes nitrite and turns it into nitrate. After a tank is cycled the weekly water change removes nitrate.

Filter media (sponges, cartridges, pads) and substrate that contain live cycling bacteria can also be used to “seed” the cycle and make it faster. These bacteria quickly grow throughout the tank if you place them in the filter or in the filter flow. Bacteria stick to surfaces; not much lives in the water, so using old tank-water does nothing for the cycle. Be careful to use only seeded media from a clean, healthy tank.

Cycling bacteria is available in bottles from your local pet store. Tetra SafeStart is often used, although there are a few other products containing the bacteria listed above.
*
pH matching*

Betta can tolerate a wide range of pH – from below 7.0 pH to above 8.0 pH – as long as it does not change quickly. If your tapwater pH matches your tank pH within + 0.3 points a 50% water change is no problem. If the pH difference is outside of that range, letting the refill water sit and "age" for 24-hours should bring it into range. Or you can do smaller water changes more often.

*This sticky...*

...is an open sticky. Questions and comments are encouraged. In order to keep the thread from expanding beyond convenient reading length, some comments, questions and answers may be folded into the body of the sticky and the original post might be deleted. This is for efficiency only and not a reflection on the poster. I'm sure you'll understand. 

​


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## Polkadot

:thumbsup:


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## Overprotective Fish Lover

Here's something I've wondered about...do products like Tetra Safestart, Cycle, and Colony actually speed up cycling as considerably as they're advertised to? I've used Colony and Prime in my 5 gal and never had an ammonia problem yet...but my betta might just not produce a lot of waste.


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## Hallyx

Not all of those "cycle helper" products are the same. Only a few contain the actual cycling bacteria (Nitrosomonas ans Nitrospira) that directly cause the nitrogen cycle. These include Tetra Safestart, Dr Tim's One-and-Only, MicrobeLift NiteOut, ATM Colony and very few others. 

Most of the rest products contain bacteria that consume organics reduce sludge and help with the biofilm where the bacteria live. They do not cycle the tank/filter and can, in fact inhibit the the nitrogen cycle. Nutrafin Cycle is one of these. So is Stress-zyme and most others. 

A product that contains the right bacteria will brag about it by name. It isn't cheap or easy to manufacture. They should be proud of it --and charge accordingly.


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## Tangeh

> The above instructions are for a “fish-in” cycle which uses the ammonia produced by your fish to feed the cycling bacteria and to grow the bacteria colonies. Since Betta produce so little ammonia (low-bioload), smaller colonies are enough. You need only enough bacteria to eat all the ammonia. In fact, that’s what get with fish-in cycling – just the right amount of bacteria.
> 
> “Fishless” cycling means that _you_ provide the ammonia to feed the growing colonies. You can raise very large bacteria colonies using this method. If you’re planning to stock large fish or many fish at once this may be the way to go.


Question: say you bought a fish tank and put one betta in to do a fish-in cycle. You cycle the tank, ammonia and nitrites read 0ppm, everything's good. What if you went and added more fish to the tank? Would you essentially be starting a fish-in cycle over again because there wouldn't be enough bacteria? If you were adding fish sensitive to water parameters would you have to remove your betta and do a fishless cycle??


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## Hallyx

That's right. Adding more livestock increases the bioload which then needs more bacteria to oxidize the increased ammonia. The slight ammonia spike that sometimes happens is called a "mini-cycle." Adding Prime @ 2-drops/gal daily keeps the ammonia safely locked until the bacteria colonies grow to balance the new bioload.

Alternatively, you can fishless cycle a filter in a separate container, then install it in the display tank, which would then be effectively cycled. This is called a "bucket cycle."


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## Tangeh

Thank you for the information!


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## RussellTheShihTzu

:thankyou: For this tutorial!

I have had 100% success using Seachem Stability to cycle my last seven tanks in 10-14 days. Another advantage? It aids in "feeding" established bacteria when you add new fish. Since I order online-only, I sometimes add 15-20 fish at one time. Have never had a cycle crash or "mini-cycle."


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## Galilea

I'm doing a fishless cycle for my planted 10 gallon tank by adding ammonia. I've gotten to the part where 4ppm of ammonia will disappear in 24 hours, but my nitrites are still staying a steady 5ppm. I'm not exactly sure how long I've been cycling my tank (I think this might be the second week), but the ammonia has disappeared in 24 hours for the last 3 days. How long before I start to see a drop in the nitrites?

I haven't done a water change since there are no fish that could be harmed. It's my first time cycling a tank so I just want to be sure I'm on the right track.


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## Hallyx

Unless you're planning on highly-stocking that 10g, you can cut the ammonia back to 2.0ppm now and let the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria catch up. (Be sure to use dechlorinator for this small water change.) This should take just a few days and your nitrate should start to rise. NOB are kind of finicky; they can be overloaded.

Anyway, you're almost cycled.


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## Anjasa

Hey! Thanks for this.

So I bought Prime by Seachem, and used it once with my fish still in. The next morning, the tank was a cloudy orange colour. I did a water change and it went back to normal.

So I bought a new tank, and wanted to try it again. I got everything set up, but again, the day after, its now a cloudy orange colour.

Has any one else had this issue? I did a water change to my fish tank as well and the only thing different is the drops of Prime, and the other one looks clear / amber (from the Indian Almond Leaf).


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## Jumbo Dwarf Gourami

Thank you, this was very informative and easy to understand.


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## Hallyx

This is a new one for me. I've never heard of a reaction to Prime, and I've never heard of it going stale. It may have something to do with your waterI'm going to contact Seachem to see what they have to say.

What is your water source? If municipal, what is the URL for their website?


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## Anjasa

Hallyx said:


> This is a new one for me. I've never heard of a reaction to Prime, and I've never heard of it going stale. It may have something to do with your waterI'm going to contact Seachem to see what they have to say.
> 
> What is your water source? If municipal, what is the URL for their website?


Water Services | City Of St. John's

Thank you!


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## Laki

Subbing because I'm interested in the cycling and also shoutout to fellow Sin Johnsian! I moved only 7 months ago but I miss SJ 

What do you recommend for an ammonia source? I have been adding BB to my tank thinking I did that in place of adding ammonia. I don't have fish in my tank yet. Also, I am getting all positive results back on my water testing. Nitrates are under 50 ppm and ammonia and nitrites are 0 ppm. I'm doing a water change today so I wanted to know if I should add ammonia. Can I get ammonia from the grocery store?


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## IslandGirl7408

We are possibly thinking of getting another 5.5 gal tank for a potential new betta. We already have a 5.5. Could we take the filter out of that one and put it in the new tank and get an instant cycle? Would that hurt the cycle of the first tank?( it's a top fin brand-- has carbon filter and sponge)? Should we also use some of the water from the first tank in the new one?


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## Bedhead

If you remove the filter from your existing tank then you will be taking away most of the bacteria from that tank, and will crash your cycle. What you can do is take a small piece of filter sponge out of that filter, and put in the new filter to seed it, or alternatively run the new filter alongside the old filter in your existing tank for a little while. Both of these methods will kick start the bacteria in the new filter, and make cycling much quicker.


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## IslandGirl7408

Bedhead said:


> If you remove the filter from your existing tank then you will be taking away most of the bacteria from that tank, and will crash your cycle. What you can do is take a small piece of filter sponge out of that filter, and put in the new filter to seed it, or alternatively run the new filter alongside the old filter in your existing tank for a little while. Both of these methods will kick start the bacteria in the new filter, and make cycling much quicker.


Are you saying that every time I change the filter on my tank, I am likely to crash my cycle?


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## Bedhead

If you change all the filter media at once, then yes, or at least that's my understanding of how it works. To be honest I'm not sure how this would work with a sponge filter, in my old community tank I had a HOB filter, and I just used to change half the media at a time, to make sure the bacteria wasn't too badly affected.


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## Hallyx

Hi Laki. Good to see you.

What sort of BB are you adding? Just adding bacteria won't get it. You have to feed the bacteria with ammonia in order for them to grow to a healthy colony. You can use the fish to provide the ammonia (fish-in cycling) or add ammonia yourself (fishless cycling).

Pure ammonia is not available at just any grocery store. It must be "Pure" ammonia with no detergents or other additives.Tru-Value Hardware has Janitorial Strength ammonium hydroxide (ammonia). Shake the bottle. If it foams, it has additives and you don't want it.

I’m interested in what you're adding because you show nitrate, which indicates a cycled tank. How long have you been dosing with BB and what kind is it exactly? I though by now that you would have a cycled tank that you could get seeded media from. If that's what you're using, I'd recommend getting a fish in there to keep the cycle going.

If you're not going to stock that tank soon, then you can cheat and just put a few pellets in there every day to generate a little ammonia, rather than buying a whole bottle. Be sure to clean them out every once in a while.

And, by all means, keep testing.


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## Hallyx

Bedhead has outlined the right technique for seeding from a donor tank. 

If your donor tank has been running for a few months, donating the filter media to the new tank is no big deal -- or just donate half the media. Mini-cycles are not dangerous, especially if you're using Prime. Just take readings (both tanks) and change water as needed.

Don't donate water. There's not enough bacteria in the water to make it worth while.

If the donor tank is newly cycled (just a few weeks), I'd suggest leaving it be and cycling the new tank as outlined in the tutorial. 

If you're in a hurry, add Tetra Safestart or equivalent (Dr Tim's One-and-Only, ATM Colony, Microbelift NiteOut II, API Quickstart).

Once it's established, crashing a cycle is not easy. The bacteria is pretty hard to kill unless you let it dry out or overheat or chill it.


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## Laki

Hallyx said:


> Hi Laki. Good to see you.
> 
> What sort of BB are you adding? Just adding bacteria won't get it. You have to feed the bacteria with ammonia in order for them to grow to a healthy colony. You can use the fish to provide the ammonia (fish-in cycling) or add ammonia yourself (fishless cycling).
> 
> Pure ammonia is not available at just any grocery store. It must be "Pure" ammonia with no detergents or other additives.Tru-Value Hardware has Janitorial Strength ammonium hydroxide (ammonia). Shake the bottle. If it foams, it has additives and you don't want it.
> 
> I’m interested in what you're adding because you show nitrate, which indicates a cycled tank. How long have you been dosing with BB and what kind is it exactly? I though by now that you would have a cycled tank that you could get seeded media from. If that's what you're using, I'd recommend getting a fish in there to keep the cycle going.
> 
> If you're not going to stock that tank soon, then you can cheat and just put a few pellets in there every day to generate a little ammonia, rather than buying a whole bottle. Be sure to clean them out every once in a while.
> 
> And, by all means, keep testing.


It's Nutrafin cycle. Everybody recommended the tetra brand but that's not sold in stores here and I didn't want to wait for it to come by mail. I have only set my tank up recently (a few weeks ago), we moved provinces last November so I tore my tank apart and sold off things, let my tank dry out for 7 months. So there were no seeding pads.

Based on consistent readings of 0 ppm ammonia (a few days ago it was 25 ppm) I believe my tank will be safe for a fish-in cycle, oh and I have been adding fish food as a slight ammonia source. I know it's not as good as pure ammonia. I will be testing the water and changing it as needed. I think I'll also throw in a hornwort if I can get my hands on some today or tomorrow just to be safe while I wait for my other plants to arrive. After my exercise today I'll be going to catch a bus out to look at the honeys. I already called and they have what I want, I just hope they're healthy!


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## Hallyx

Nutrafin Cycle does not contain the bacteria that does the nitrogen cycle. It only keeps sludge from building up in the filter (of a highly-stocked tank). It won't hurt. But, once you stock you tank, just go with the normal fish-in cycling procedure. You know what you're doing.

Hornwort is good stuff. More plants are better. Be sure to keep a close eye on your readings while your plants are new and getting their roots under them -- so to speak.


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## Laki

Yea I think I have gone so long without my tank that I did the whole thing wrong.. It seems it will be a fish-in cycle afterall. I picked up a trio of honeys today and the lady gave me a whole bunch of salvinia as cover and as a ammonia/nitrite sucker-outer.


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## IslandGirl7408

Hi,
If I tuck another, new filter in with my established, cycled tank's filter, how long before the new filter has enough bacteria to be moved to a new tank?


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## Hallyx

About three weeks. Maybe more.


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## IslandGirl7408

Hallyx said:


> About three weeks. Maybe more.


Thanks!


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## jessjord

When I set up my new tank, I ended up doing a fish in cycle. I did exactly as you described. Btw, AMAZING job with your sticky so detailed and so understandable thank you!!!
Anyway, I started my tank about almost 2 1/2-3 weeks ago, to help the process last week everyday, i added Stability to my water changing with my Prime for 7 days.
Now, I am still continuing with Prime everyday but i was just wondering how long until i can truly see my tank is completely cycled? is there a time frame? My nitrites and nitrates are reading 0. But my ammonia will still read .25. Does that mean it is almost done? Should I up my water changing? I am water changing 50% once a week


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## Hallyx

Just keep doing your Prime every day and water changes to keep ammonia <0.50ppm. It takes more than 3 weeks mostly, sometimes as long as 8-weeks. 

Stability might help, at least some experienced keepers think so. My corespondents report mixed results. But it won't hurt anything.

The tank is cycled when both ammonia and nitrite read 0.0ppm and nitrate increases slightly every week.


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## jessjord

Ok thank you so much hallyx!! Appreciate the advice


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## 123playcard

If I use Tetra Safe Start in a 5 gallon medium-planted tank with a betta, is that correct that I should not change my water the first 2 weeks ?

The paper test kit shows the ammonia between 0 and 0.25 after 3 days (hard to tell on the color)

Betta seems active, eats well (and build a big bubble nest in the corner not sure if this matter)


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## Hallyx

That's what Tetra says to do. But it makes me nervous to watch ammonia build up, even when using Prime. Because so little bacteria is in the water column, I think there is no penalty for changing water whenever ammonia gets near 0.50ppm. So that's what I recommend. Creates peace-of-mind, if nothing else.

What brand strips are you using that features an ammonia test?


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## 123playcard

Thank you, Hallyx

I used Jungle TK301W Quick Dip Ammonia Test Strips, 25-Pack (I "inherited" it from a friend)

What is the best liquid test master kit I should use ?


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## Hallyx

This is the one most everyone uses: Amazon.com : API Freshwater Master Test Kit : Aquarium Test Kits : Pet Supplies 

There are other more expensive Pro kits. But that's good enough for hobbyists.


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## Tangeh

So... my tank is almost three months old and hasn't cycled at all. It's a 4.5 gallon and has a filter. I've had the betta since I got the tank and added a mystery snail just over a month ago. I usually do 25%-50% water changes every Sunday, and ammonia usually reads 0.25 - 0.50PPM immediately beforehand and nitrite and nitrate are always at 0ppm. Late last night I noticed my betta flashing, couldn't see anything physically wrong with him so I dosed with prime and went to bed. He was still doing it this morning so I tested the water and ammonia was at 1.0PPM o_o Meanwhile nitrite and nitrate were at 0ppm... Just did a 50% water change, I'll test the ammonia again later today. Is there something I'm missing? >_> Or is the tank too small to cycle?


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## ao

Tangeh said:


> So... my tank is almost three months old and hasn't cycled at all. It's a 4.5 gallon and has a filter. I've had the betta since I got the tank and added a mystery snail just over a month ago. I usually do 25%-50% water changes every Sunday, and ammonia usually reads 0.25 - 0.50PPM immediately beforehand and nitrite and nitrate are always at 0ppm. Late last night I noticed my betta flashing, couldn't see anything physically wrong with him so I dosed with prime and went to bed. He was still doing it this morning so I tested the water and ammonia was at 1.0PPM o_o Meanwhile nitrite and nitrate were at 0ppm... Just did a 50% water change, I'll test the ammonia again later today. Is there something I'm missing? >_> Or is the tank too small to cycle?



Gosh, that so weird. lol 
What's your PH? and do you switch your filter cartridge out? which test kit are you using?


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## Tangeh

Yeah, I've never tried to cycle a tank before. 

I'm using the API Master Test Kit. I tested pH just now... the normal pH seemed very blue so I tried high range and it seemed very brown. So I guess 7.4 - 7.6 pH? I've never switched the filter cartridge. I do have a spare.


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## Hallyx

A 50% weekly change is standard maintenance. So, other than a few drops of Prime every day, you should operate as if the tank were cycled. Keep ammonia <0.50ppm with changes. Do *not* replace your cartridge. It will cycle eventually.

As for the flashing, try a a large pwc and see what happens.

Any size tank can be cycled.


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## ao

Tangeh said:


> Yeah, I've never tried to cycle a tank before.
> 
> I'm using the API Master Test Kit. I tested pH just now... the normal pH seemed very blue so I tried high range and it seemed very brown. So I guess 7.4 - 7.6 pH? I've never switched the filter cartridge. I do have a spare.



Can you try shaking those nitrate bottles like you're a mad man? Some times they need to take a beating to work properly...

how much are you feeding your betta and mystery snail?


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## Tangeh

I have been, directions said for a full minute and I did that.  My arm was tired after. lol

I feed the betta 2ish pellets twice daily (Omega One Betta Buffet). The mystery snail I've been giving a small shred of lettuce once or twice weekly (sometimes other veggies if I have them instead), removing uneaten portions after 24 hours (although I've finally gotten the portions to the point where he eats all of it now anyways). Snail also eats algae and uneaten food of course.

I have read that vacuuming the gravel can disrupt the beneficial bacteria and the cycle. I've been vacuuming the gravel every week, though not super intensely. Should I stop that for now, maybe?


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## Mousie

Tangeh said:


> I have read that vacuuming the gravel can disrupt the beneficial bacteria and the cycle. I've been vacuuming the gravel every week, though not super intensely. Should I stop that for now, maybe?


It won't stop the cycle, but it won't help either. Wait till the tank has a healthy and stable cycle (ie; allow the nitrifying bacteria to move to a porous surface where water is being pushed through it, which is the bio media in your filter. That's where they will reproduce and grow), then you can proceed with the regular gravel vacs.

A note about the API Nitrate bottle; you only have to bang it on a hard surface if the bottle has sat unused for a long period of time. No need to bang it on anything if the bottle is being regularly used.


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## Tangeh

Alright, I'll refrain from now. At least until the snail poop makes it necessary. xD

This I what I got from the readings before I did a water change yesterday: http://http://imgur.com/Olo79Vk

Now I actually wasn't getting anything for ammonia for a while, or if I did it would be really low, so maybe the ammonia being higher will help.. Of course only a reasonable level of highness lol don't wanna hurt anyone.


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## Cinderwolf

Ive got a question. 

Im newly cycling my 5.5 gal ( with a 10 gal filter) its got no live plants ( save some moss balls) and one betta. 

I test daily for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Only een running for 5 days so im not expecting nitrites or nitrates for a while, but its getting up to.5 ammonia every day, so I've been doing a 50 % change every day.

I have no problem doing it since it only takes a few minutes to siphon such a small tank, but I was wondering if that was a normal amount of water changes / ammonia for a new tank. Just wanna make sure I'm on the right track. After each 50% change the ammonia usually reads .25.


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## Mousie

Cinderwolf said:


> Ive got a question.
> 
> Im newly cycling my 5.5 gal ( with a 10 gal filter) its got no live plants ( save some moss balls) and one betta.
> 
> I test daily for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Only een running for 5 days so im not expecting nitrites or nitrates for a while, but its getting up to.5 ammonia every day, so I've been doing a 50 % change every day.
> 
> I have no problem doing it since it only takes a few minutes to siphon such a small tank, but I was wondering if that was a normal amount of water changes / ammonia for a new tank. Just wanna make sure I'm on the right track. *After each 50% change the ammonia usually reads .25.*


What type of test kit are you using to test the water after you do a water change? 

Test the water _before_ you do a water change, and see what the readings are for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Make sure 24 hours has passed between the test and a water change. Also be sure your pH is above 7. Low pH can stop or stall a cycle.


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## Cinderwolf

Mousie said:


> What type of test kit are you using to test the water after you do a water change?
> 
> Test the water _before_ you do a water change, and see what the readings are for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Make sure 24 hours has passed between the test and a water change. Also be sure your pH is above 7. Low pH can stop or stall a cycle.


Oh sorry there was a misunderstanding. I mean, I am testing before the water change and if it reads 0.5 ppm im doing a 50% like it says in this thread, then after the water change I test again to check how lows the level is after. 

I'm using the api master kit to test. 

I test every day and its almost always back up to .5 ( only twice now has it been less that .5 )

So yea its like test every day , then test again after I do the water change ( just so I have a record)


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## Cinderwolf

So now I'm on day 3 of the ammonia staying at 0.25ppm after it jumping to 0.5 everday up til that. The ammonia isn't going up, but neither is the nitrates or nirites. Could the anubias and java fern I added be keeping the ammonia down? I dont think they are actively growing since its a very dim light.


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## Hallyx

Anubias and Java fern grow too slowly to effect your water quality or parameters. 

An increase in ammonia of 0.25ppm every day in a 5g tank is a little high. Vacuum thoroughly when you change water. Four or five drops of Prime every day will keep ammonia detoxified.

Patience (or Tetra Safestart) is all you need.


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## ao

Cinderwolf said:


> So now I'm on day 3 of the ammonia staying at 0.25ppm after it jumping to 0.5 everday up til that. The ammonia isn't going up, but neither is the nitrates or nirites. Could the anubias and java fern I added be keeping the ammonia down? I dont think they are actively growing since its a very dim light.



It could be the javafern. Algae might play a part too of you have any


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## Cinderwolf

Okay yea, Im doing 2 drops per gallon of Prime daily, and ammonia today still hadn't gone above .25, guess its just a waiting game now


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## Tangeh

Update on my cycling struggle: tank has somehow miraculously cycled and I have no idea how. I had to drain it a week and a half ago to move back to school (the snail sadly did not make it :-( I may have re-acclimated him too quickly, not totally sure, betta is fine though..) and added API quick start since I still had a packet that came with the tank. Tested the water probably a week ago and it read 0.25ppm - tested it just now because I was about to do a water change and ammonia was 0.0. I was pretty baffled so I tested nitrites and nitrates too - nitrites were also at 0.0 and nitrates were at 10ppm! 

I just wanted to share because I am way too excited about this. :-D


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## DerangedUnicorn

Hello, 

I hope this thread is still okay to post questions in. I'm planning on starting a planted tank. As of right now, I have no plants or fish, but my plan was to get my tank planted, then cycle it without a fish. So, my questions is, is cycling a tank any different when doing it with just plants? Should I use a fish-in cycle? Will the substrate for the plants affect the cycle? 

Thanks!


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## Hallyx

Plants are one way to remove ammonia. The nitrogen cycle is the other. They sort of work in combination. The more healthy, growing plants you have, the smaller the cycling bacteria colony. Fewer plants, larger colony. It's a balance thing.

Depending on the substrate, it may effect the cycle. Some "Grow" substrates put out measurable ammonia. Most sand and dirt substrates are neutral. What do you plan to use? 

The customary way to approach this -- having no fish to worry about -- is to plant the tank and grow your plants to a healthy, thriving condition. (There's lots of good advice on the _"planted tank"_ section of this forum.) Then add the livestock, monitor the water parameters with a test kit and perform water changes as suggested in the tutorial.

Good luck. Keep us apprised of your progress. I'm interested.


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## DerangedUnicorn

I plan on using Aquasoil Amazonia with Power sand underneath, as advised by theplantedtank.com. Know anything about it? 

I will keep you posted. It might be a while, because I am saving up for this project. But I'll start a thread when I'm ready in the journals & link you to it. 

Thanks for the advice!


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## Hallyx

I run bare-bottom tanks with live floating plants, so I have no opinion on substrate.

I look forward to the link.


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## SeleneTheSeawolf

So after the tank is cycled when ammonia and nitrites read 0ppm for a 10G is it okay to do 25% water changes? then 50% monthly? or should I always do weekly 50% changes?


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## Hallyx

You don't need to do 50% weekly changes in a 10g. I just didn't want to make the tutorial longer or confusing. 

For a 10g Betta tank, a 25% monthly change would actually work nitrate-wise. But there are other good reasons for a _weekly_ 25% change. Besides diluting nitrate, you also vacuum up solid waste, dilute dissolved waste, stabilize pH and replenish minerals used up by plants and livestock.

It's like airing out a closed room every once in a while. Good husbandry.


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## SeleneTheSeawolf

Hallyx said:


> You don't need to do 50% weekly changes in a 10g. I just didn't want to make the tutorial longer or confusing.
> 
> For a 10g Betta tank, a 25% monthly change would actually work nitrate-wise. But there are other good reasons for a _weekly_ 25% change. Besides diluting nitrate, you also vacuum up solid waste, dilute dissolved waste, stabilize pH and replenish minerals used up by plants and livestock.
> 
> It's like airing out a closed room every once in a while. Good husbandry.


Cool, thanks


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## Kay333

I read on another thread that a fish-in cycle is safer when the tank is heavily planted. I'm worried about hurting my Rudy since he's currently recovering from fin rot. I've only cycled a tank once and it was partially by accident so I want to be positive that I do it right this time! 

I just planted the tank today. Could I introduce Rudy this week and follow the two sentence cycling method? Will my tank cycle the same since I have so many plants? 

Thanks in advance!

P.S. I'm also planning on replacing the ceramic media that came with the tank with the ceramic media from one of the filters on my fully cycled tanks.










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## Hallyx

Hallyx said:


> Plants are one way to remove ammonia. The nitrogen cycle is the other. They sort of work in combination. The more healthy, growing plants you have, the smaller the cycling bacteria colony. Fewer plants, larger colony. It's a balance thing.


If Rudy is in a smaller tank, I'd put him in the planted tank as soon as you can.

If you're going to "seed" the tank with bacteria from your cycled tank, you have it made. The bacteria will fill in for any ammonia the plants can't handle.

The important thing is to keep a close watch on your readings. Do 50% water changes whenever ammonia rises >0.25ppm. 

Sometimes plants take a while to stabilize and start growing, so a few drops of Prime every day won't hurt, until your tank matures and reads 0.0ppm ammonia.

That's a good start on planting. But you'll find you may want at least twice that many before you can rely on plants for water quality. Floating plants are especially good -- plus they provide shade, hides and resting spots which you Betta will like.


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## Kay333

Thanks! He's in a 2.5g unfiltered bowl and I've been dying to get him into his new tank! My other tank is at work so he'll need to wait until tomorrow so I can get the seeded filter media. I can't wait for him to check out his new tank!

I've also got an IAL in the tank too. I'm hoping it'll help his transition since I just put one in his bowl the other day. He was freaked out by it at first but once he realized it wasn't eating his food he was fine!  I also bought him some better pellets. My family calls him the most spoiled fish they've ever seen!


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## ytpconquer

I am midway through cycling my planted minibow 2.5 the ammonia is reading 0, nitrites are high (1-3 ppm) and nitrates are slowly being produced (10ppm last i checked). I have been doing the 50% water changes and adding extra prime due to high nitrites.

I am currently using the crappy minibow filter, but want to switch to a sponge filter and add some more plants since the minibow filter is too strong and takes too much space. I'm worried about crashing the cycle when i replace the filter. I was planning to add some Tetra safestart when I replace the filter, but I'm not sure this is enough. Should i cut a piece of the minibow cartridge and attach it to the filter sponge? I want to get rid of the minibow filter asap.

Thanks


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## Hallyx

ytpconquer said:


> Should i cut a piece of the minibow cartridge and attach it to the filter sponge?


Yep. That's how it's done -- transferring "seeded" media. Use the whole thing. Just rubber-band it to the outside of your sponge filter. You won't effect the cycle. (But pay close attention to your readings, anyway.)

You're pretty close to the end of the cycle. I wouldn't bother with Safestart.

Change water to get that nitrite below 0.50ppm. You're seeing nitrate; you're on the last lap.


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## newbettaowner345

I have a question. If I were to do a 100% water change, would that mean that I would have to re-cycle my tank again when I put water back in? Also, what if the only fish I have is a betta (and two snails). Are bettas strong enough to survive in the tank while it is cycling?


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## Hallyx

Not much bacteria is in the water column. Bacteria stick to and reproduce on surfaces. You shouldn't need to do a 100% water change on a cycled tank. If you have to remove the water for some reason, keep the filter media and substrate wet. That's where the bacteria live.

If you keep ammonia and nitrate below 0.50ppm, and use Prime to detoxify any remaining ammonia, cycling fish-in is perfectly safe. 

You might want to review this again for clarity: CYCLING: the two-sentence tutorial

Welcome to the forum.


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## newbettaowner345

Does BettaSafe by Tetra detoxify ammonia/nitrites/nitrate?


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## Hallyx

Yes, in fact, it does. But Aquasafe, by the same company, does not.


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## Npinja

Lets say that you have an already cycled 50 gallon tank planted with some ammonia eating plants. Could you change 25% of the water every 3-4 weeks? The tank will have 10 neon tetras and 1 male betta, which IMO is a pretty small bio load for a 50 gallon.

This will be my first time cycling so I have to clear some things up.
So when I buy the tank, I will rinse the gravel and plants and put them in the tank. Then I will add the water. I will leave heater and filter running. Then whenever the ammonia or nitrate levels reach 0.25ppm, I will do a 25% water change and add prime everyday until cycled. Is this correct?


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## Hallyx

Wow, Npinja. You just did it in one sentence. :welldone:

Even in a cycled, well-planted tank, it's still a good idea to do a weekly pwc to replenish minerals used up by the plants and livestock, to stabilize pH, to remove some dissolved waste, and vacuuming removes solid waste. Sort of like opening a window to freshen a room. 

I think it's a good idea to get the plants started and growing. Weak plants can shed and decompose and add ammonia. Not essential; you'll be monitoring your readings carefully.


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## Npinja

After it is cycled, how much water should I take out weekly?


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## Kay333

I have a 5.5 gallon that's been doing a fish-in cycle with a male Betta and two unidentified tiny snails (smaller than my pinky fingernail small). Will it ruin the cycle if I do 25% water change now that my ammonia level is 0.25ppm, 0ppm nitrite and 0ppm nitrate? I could wait until tomorrow morning and test again to see if it's closer to 0.5ppm but I have a newly planted aquarium with some melt and I don't want the decaying plant matter to spike the ammonia overnight (I'm trying to remove anything that's very clearly dead right away, but I'm leaving anything that looks like it might have a chance of coming back.)


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## Hallyx

Kay, you are looking at this exactly the right way. As I said, up there in post #64, there is very little bacteria in the water. Change as much as you need to whenever you need to. It will not measurably effect the cycle.

Npinja, if you can change 10g a week, you will have done the best that can be expected -- better than most. Don't feel bad if you can only do less. A 55g is very forgiving -- especially with plants in it.


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## Npinja

Could I change water monthly? Is that even an option? I feel like with such a small bioload I only have to change water once per month. (10 neon tetras and 1 male betta)


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## newbettaowner345

ok. do you think i'd be okay with using tetra's bettasafe?


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## newbettaowner345

Does this mean that I won't be changing the filter's cartridges at all? just clarifying, as I know most of the bacteria will live on the substrate and filter cartridge.


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## Hallyx

Bettasafe is fine. Prime is better -- and it's cheaper per dose.

Do not change the filter cartridge (for the reason you mention). Just rinse it out in tankwater removed during a water change -- every few weeks or so.


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## ldampman

Is this for only freshwater or both fresh and saltwater? I never had to do anything with my freshwater. My saltwater tank is being difficult to start or i'm just not being patient enough. Ammonia is sky high


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## Hallyx

SW is arguably more sensitive to ammonia. The higher the pH the more ammonia is in the tank relative to less harmful ammonium. And vice-versa.

Cycling takes time. SW shouldn't take longer than FW. Higher pH encourages bacteria growth.

I never did check which products work well with SW. Safestart and Dr Tim's are the only ones I really recommend. But you might ask the guys at ATM in Vegas. They use bacteria to start their SW tanks. They can't afford to mess around.

I get really nervous when I read ammonia >0.50ppm. I would do whatever water changes are necessary (amount and frequency) to keep ammonia <0.50ppm -- and I'd add Prime daily.

Patience. 

Welcome to the forum.


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## Kay333

Is it possible to get a cycle started without a noticeable nitrite spike? My ammonia level was 0.25ppm Tuesday night and Wednesday morning. I got a migraine at work yesterday and felt like a horrible pet parent because I didn't check the ammonia level again until tonight. I did still do my ten drops of prime every morning. My tank is 5.5g and my ammonia is currently at 0ppm, nitrite 0ppm and nitrate is somewhere between 0ppm and 5ppm. Should I expect a nitrite spike soon or am I done? I used seeded filter media from a 20g and even so it's been about 2 weeks (10 days) since I started the cycle and that seems short. Should I keep testing both ammonia and nitrite every evening and dosing with prime every morning? Or am I done?


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## Hallyx

Nitrite is funny. Sometimes it lingers for weeks; sometimes it spikes and goes away in a day.

Seeded media can cycle a tank in less than 2-weeks.

If nitrate increases between water changes you have a cycle (if ammonia and nitrite read 0.0ppm). Good job.


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## mattchha

I'm a little bit confused. 

For the past 5 months, since I set up my tanks, I've been adding two drops of prime per gallon daily to all of my tanks, and changing the water weekly. Now I'm realizing I've wasted A LOT of prime, lol.

But anyway, trying to establish cycles now, and one of my tanks measures 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 10-20 nitrate. Is that a good thing or a horrible thing?


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## ThomasHawk

Hello all, new member here. 

Trying to establish cycle in a new 2.5 gallon filtered, non-planted, heated tank, fish-in (one male betta). We've had the tank for right at a week, been following the 2 sentence rule. Just received API Master Test Kit, and have found out our tap water measures .50 PPM for ammonia (probably ammonium).

Shall we just continue with the 2 sentence plan, or perhaps try going the Tetra SafeStart route, since every time I do the water change I'm adding more ammonia back in? I know the ammonium isn't affecting the fish (or so I've read), especially as we're following the second sentence of the plan using Seachem Prime drops every day, but is it affecting the cycle any? It's also frustrating because I can't tell if my ammonia tests are showing me ammonium or ammonia. Any way to remedy this?

Would love to get your opinions on this, especially Hallyx's opinion. 


Thank you!
Tom


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## mattchha

mattchha said:


> I'm a little bit confused.
> 
> For the past 5 months, since I set up my tanks, I've been adding two drops of prime per gallon daily to all of my tanks, and changing the water weekly. Now I'm realizing I've wasted A LOT of prime, lol.
> 
> But anyway, trying to establish cycles now, and one of my tanks measures 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 10-20 nitrate. Is that a good thing or a horrible thing?


Can't edit my post for some reason - did some googling. So, high nitrate with 0 ammonia & nitrite essentially means it's time for a water change? I did a 50% change and now the nitrate's reading 0 x_x


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## Hallyx

Thomashawk, that's smart checking your sourcewater. As long as you're adding Prime daily, you shouldn't have to worry about sourcewater ammonia adding to livestock ammonia. Prime @2-drops/gal can easily detoxify >1.0ppm ammonia, according to Seachem. Why do you think you're reading mostly ammonium? What is your pH?

The Seachem _Ammonia Alert_ can tell the difference between ammonia and ammonium. Some members use these. The ammonia/ammonium ratio is determined by the pH and temperature. You can refer to an ammonia calculator: Ammonia Calculator

Prime locks both ammonia and ammonium in a harmless molecule. The API test measures Total Ammonia Nitrogen (TAN); that's ammonia and ammonium together. It cannot distinguish between the two. Also, it cannot tell whether the ammonia is locked or unlocked. Nothing can, that I know of. And THAT is really too bad.

Safestart can cut your cycle time by half or more. It's actually a pretty good idea for a small tank like 2.5g. (In my opinion, you should disregard Tetra's instructions.) Shake really well. Turn off the filter. Pour TSS into the filter media. Let it soak in for a while then restart the filter. Keep reading for ammonia, changing water and adding Prime until cycled.

Welcome to the forum.

Mattchhaa, 0.0ppm ammonia, 0.0ppm nitrite and >5.0 nitrate (increasing between changes) are the indicators of a cycled tank. With those numbers, you only need to add Prime during water changes to detoxify ammonia released from the breaking of the chloramine molecule into chlorine and ammonia.

I'm told a little nitrate is desirable to keep algae down. Never had algae, so I don't know.


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## ThomasHawk

Thank you for the response, Hallyx. 

I thought I had read somewhere that the chloramine that a lot of city water municipalities are using is causing water to contain ammonium. I probably read that incorrectly. I just did my API tests this evening, and my pH was about 7.4-7.6.

I've ordered the Seachem Ammonia Alert. Thank you for the tip. 

Regarding using Tetra SafeStart: I think I've read in a few places that Prime can cause problems with the process for SafeStart. Is this true in your opinion/experience?

Tonight my API test readings were: Ammonia=0.50, Nitrite=0.00, Nitrate 5.0. I was sure to wait a full 24 hours after my last Prime drops before doing the test. The ammonia read 0.50 yesterday, one day after my 50% water change on Saturday. In fact, my readings yesterday before I put the Prime drops in were exactly as they were tonight.

I'll continue to do my daily test readings and Prime drops, and as long as ammonia doesn't go higher than 0.50, I'll stick to weekly water changes until the tank is cycled. I know that's higher than the 0.25 ammonia reading that the 2 sentence rule says to follow, but I think I'm just reading my tap water's ammonia level... well, at least until I can get some nitrites working. What do you think of my plan Hallyx?

And, also... as soon as my bottle of SafeStart shows up, I'll dump that in and hopefully kick things into high gear.

Thank you so much for the help!


-Tom


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## Hallyx

Only Tetra says TSS is incompatible with ammonia-locking water conditioners. All the conditioner companies claim their products works well with TSS. That's been my experience and feedback -- except in a few anomalous cases where variables were too complicated to track.

Your approach is logical. In the tutorial, I think I recommend a 50% change at >.50ppm ammonia. Whatever... you understand the principle well enough to make your own decision regarding that.


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## Npinja

Should I use an aquarium bacterial culture jumpstarter for cycling my 50 gallon aquarium? I really want to get it cycled ASAP so I can add the fish. Do you guys recommend jumpstarting your aquariums?


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## Hallyx

Have we talked about this before? I lose track after a while, sorry <sigh>

Not all "bacterial culture jumpstarters" are the same. Some are marginal; some are useless. Tetra Safestart or Dr. Tim's One-and-Only are two of the most reliable products that have been reported to me. They work fine with "pure" ammonia for fishless cycling.


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## Tina Renee

Hi,

RussellTheShihTzu has been a great help to me and has sent me your direction. I'm getting ready to do my first water change on my 3.5 gal tank. I have a filter and an using Tetra BetaSafe, directions say 7 drops per gal, and Tetra SafeStart Plus that says it reduces ammonia and nitrates, about 2/3 a cap full per gallon. 

I've been taking water in every week since I got Sammy as Petco tests it at no charge. I have two bulbs planted but it's only been a week, I don't expect to see any growth for a little while anyway. I plan to do a 50% change in the morning and will take the water to get it tested once the change is done. 

I don't have a vacuum yet but will pick one up tomorrow when I have the water tested. 

If I find that either the ammonia or nitrates are too high what do I do? Also is there anything from my above strategies that I need to change? 

Thanks!


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## Hallyx

Do a 50% water change any time the ammonia or nitrite get to 0.50ppm -- as per the tutorial. (Or 25% at 0.25ppm)

Tetra Bettasafe does detoxify ammonia. Use half the recommended dose every day until cycled. Prime is better and more economical. That's why most of us use it.

Make sure Petco uses a liquid test like the one from API, not strips, which are less accurate. Have them tell you the actual numbers, not just "everything's fine."

After you start reading ammonia, you'll want to test more often than weekly, I think. It's good to have your own kit to conduct regular checks on your water after the tank is cycled. API Freshwater Master Test Kit  

Add all of the Safestart. It does not keep well, so use it while it's fresh. 

Keep a log of your cycle. You'd be surprised what you can learn.


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## Andreacarolina87

Hello!

I have a 10g community tank (divided) with two Betta fishes, a couple of live plants, a heater, a tetra whisper filter which uses a disposable bio bag and a sponge. My question is, once I'm done cycling my tank, do I replace the bio bag completely and just rinse the new one in tank water before putting it in the cartridge? Just want to make sure I don't end up loosing my good bacteria or having a mini cycle. Thank you!


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## Hallyx

Not sure what's in that "biobag." Charcoal? Some kind of media, pad, insert, cartridge? Before the cycle gets started, I would replace it all with aquarium sponge. Keep it in there forever; it's the home for the bacteria colony. Rinse it out once a month or so.

Welcome to the forum.


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## Npinja

Hallyx said:


> Add Prime at 2-drops per gallon of tank size every day until cycled.


Is 2 drops per gallon just 1ml per 10 gallons? So if I have a 50 gallon tank I would just add 5ml per day?


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## Hallyx

The 2-drop/gal/day is an ultra-conservative recommendation for typical small (<10g) Betta tanks. It used to read 1-drop/gal daily. 

I should revise the tutorial: Betta don't produce much ammonia. A few drops a day in an uncycled tank _of any size_ should be enough, given that the keeper feeds sparingly and vacuums out waste and leftover food regularly.

The 2-drops/gal with water changes still applies.


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## Npinja

So for my 60 gallon tank that is currently uncycled I would add 1 ml per day? Is that enough?


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## Hallyx

Yes.


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## olgamc

Hey Hallyx,

I have a 5G tank with 3 guppies. I am going to set it up as an aquaponic, so there is no filter in it, and I am still waiting for parts. I was planning to do a 100% water change weekly or twice a week until I set it up and I was only expecting to see ammonia. 

A couple of days ago I started seeing nitrites and they are growing. I saw 0.25 and I did a 25% change with vacuum, but by next day they were almost at 0.5. What's going on? There is no substrate, and weekly when I do a 100% I wash everything with tap water. There are some floating plants, and a piece of mopani wood that I don't rinse. Is bacteria growing on the wood? Why are nitrites going up so fast, is that expected? Should I take the wood out or continue with the cycle? If I continue, I am guessing I should do a 50% water change now, but do I dose prime for the whole tank? If I add gravel and aerator now (which is the plan for aquaponic anyway), would it help or make things worse?

Wow, I didn't even realize I had so many questions! Thanks in advance for your help!


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## JCE

My tank is reading perfectly for the cycle but I have an opal like film on the water. I break it up and remove it with paper towel but it returns. What is it and how can I get rid of it. I follow Hallyx rules on cleaning.


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## Kay333

JCE said:


> My tank is reading perfectly for the cycle but I have an opal like film on the water. I break it up and remove it with paper towel but it returns. What is it and how can I get rid of it. I follow Hallyx rules on cleaning.



My guess is it's a protein film caused by a lack of surface agitation. Unsightly but harmless. I find it difficult to find the right balance between a happy Betta (with a baffled filter) and no surface film so I've just accepted it. I know there are protein skimmers out there but I don't know anything about them. IMO you're best bet is probably just to continue doing what you're doing. 


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## JCE

Thanks, since Nutmeg, my betta, likes ripples a little less water will add a bit more surface movement. I may try a bubbler of some type. Again thanks for the answer.


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## CollegeBettas

How long does it usually take to cycle a 10 gallon? My betta is in a 1 gallon right now and I need to move him as soon as possible since I can't keep te heat up. I do not have the 10-gallon tank yet, but I am pretty sure I am getting it tomorrow. I would like to be able to do a fishless cycle if possible since he is small and young and I don't want to kill him.


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## Hallyx

Olganc, everybody worries about cycling the tank. It's going to happen naturally and inevitably as long as there's ammonia (food), oxygen (to oxidize) and enough current to blow the oxygen around. You have to actually work to prevent the nitrogen cycle from developing. 

The bacteria are everywhere: in the tapwater (unless it has dangerous levels of chlorine), in the water molecules in the air, in every splash of water that's non-toxic, in the corners of your eyes, on the tank surfaces, plants, even the fish. The only time and place that there's no bacteria is when there are so many plants that they eat all the ammonia before the bacteria can get to it. The keepers job is to keep ammonia/nitrite under control until the bacteria or plants takeover. 

So, yes, the bacteria is in and on the wood and the plants -- and the surfaces. Even washing in tapwater doesn't remove it all. (Your Guppy are providing enough ammonia.) Still 0.50 nitrite is a little high. Perhaps something (wood, plants) are decomposing enough to add ammonia.

I would just go ahead with the cycle. It certainly doesn't hurt, and it's less work than preventing it. Leave the wood and plants, add gravel and an aerator; they will encourage the cycle. When you get the hydroponics up and running, the bacteria will take a back seat to the plants; plants use ammonia faster than cycling bacteria.

As always, while cycling, feed sparingly and vacuum up waste and leftover food regularly.

Good answer by Kay about the protein film. Skimmers are for saltwater tanks.


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## olgamc

Awesome, thanks Hallyx!


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## Hallyx

First principle, CB: always put the fish in the largest water you have -- that's the 10g. 

In a 10g it doesn't really matter how long it takes to cycle. You should do a 25% to 33% water change every week, anyway, for a lot of reasons that don't have anything to do with the cycle. That will be enough to keep ammonia from building up. A few drops of Prime every day for a month or 6-weeks is for security -- just for your peace-of-mind -- along with regular testing, of course. As long as you add a few drops of Prime every day, no harm will come to your fish.

If you must perform a fishless cycle, you're better off cycling the filter in a separate, smaller container. This is referred to as a "bucket cycle." Install the cycled filter later in the display tank. Much better than leaving the fish in the small tank while the large one cycles..

As always, while cycling, feed sparingly and vacuum up waste and leftover food regularly.


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## CollegeBettas

The filter that came with my tanks says I need to change the cartaradge every four weeks. Do I have to recycle every four weeks.


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## Hallyx

That advice from the manufacturer is to get you buy more filters. Do NOT change the cartridge until it falls apart. That's where a lot of the cycling bacteria live.


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## JCE

Hi Hallyx. You surely got me started right. Tank reads very well on everything. Now I'm wondering about the opalescent sheen on the top of the water. It seems the experts say it's protein and won't hurt anything but I would like to eliminate it if possible . I can get a lot off by wadding up paper towel and skimming but is there a better way? Thanks guru. I'm adding a pic you may be able to see what I mean.


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## ashleynicol3

*Beginner*

I haven't had a chance to read through all of the posts yet, but I've made it through the first 9 or 10 pages. I am planning to get a betta, but wanted to do my research first. I have a 5 gallon MiniBow tank right now. I don't have anything else yet. I was planning on adding some gravel and a couple of live plants, then attempting a fishless cycle before actually buying a betta and putting it in there. After reading through this thread, it seems like I might be better off doing a fish-in cycle since it's a 5 gallon tank with only one fish?

So, could I add my gravel and plants to the aquarium, fill it up with water, treat it with Tetra SafeStart, then go ahead and add the fish? Then test the water after 24 hours or so and start following the two-sentence tutorial from there?

I know I need a heater as well. I was planning on getting a 25W Hydor Theo.

I was also wondering about the filter that comes with the MiniBow. Will that be OK or should I get a sponge filter? Any recommendations?


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## JCE

Yes, you can start with fish in. You do need a heater as that really matters to bettas. Filter is not so important as they don care for a lot of water movement. It's more for your clean water. The filter is an important holder of the good bacteria. So a bag or sponge is good. Don't clean it in tap water just riffle it in the water you remove. Same with ornaments when you clean them do it in the discard water. That retains the bacteria you need. If you prepare the water, temperature is important. Try to keep it the same, add the amount of Prime or safe start most of us use Prime as it's very good and less expensive. 1/3 water change a week works for me. If you use a simple plastic tube or aquarium cleaner just go into the gravel and move it around. My baby doesn't mind at all. He just swims over and looks to,see who the visitor is.lol the only three other things I suggest is a leaf hammock my Nutmeg just loves his, a water testing kit and a thermometer. You know you need some sun for the plants but don't put the tank in a place of really direct sun. Hope this is some help. J


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## Andreacarolina87

Hallyx said:


> That advice from the manufacturer is to get you buy more filters. Do NOT change the cartridge until it falls apart. That's where a lot of the cycling bacteria live.



Hello Hallyx!
I have this cartridge that has activated carbon inside. I'm nearly done my cycle. My readings are ammonia 0, nitrite 0 (today for fhe first time after it was on 0.25 for a couple of days) and nitrate 5.0. I will test again tomorrow. I still added prime for my peace of mind. The question is, should I just buy activated carbon and replace it while keeping the same cartridge, or should I get it completely replaced for an alt ae pad or coarse pad (not sure which one is actually better)? 

Thank you!


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## Hallyx

ashleynicol3 said:


> ... it seems like I might be better off doing a fish-in cycle since it's a 5 gallon tank with only one fish?
> 
> So, could I add my gravel and plants to the aquarium, fill it up with water, treat it with Tetra SafeStart, then go ahead and add the fish? Then test the water after 24 hours or so and start following the two-sentence tutorial from there?


That's how it's done. Keep a log of your readings and what you did to maintain the tank: Water change schedule, feedings, activities, etc..



ashleynicol3 said:


> I was also wondering about the filter that comes with the MiniBow. Will that be OK or should I get a sponge filter? Any recommendations?


The MiniBow filter will probably be OK. You can baffle it if the current annoys your fish.

Andrea, I like to use the coarse (black) filter foam. It's easier to clean, and doesn't clog as easily. Carbon serves no useful purpose in a Betta tank.

JCE, if you can manage to riffle the surface (by re-directing the filter or using a bubbler), you can prevent the protein film buildup. Prime and Safestart are not equivalent products. Prime is a water conditioner: dechlorinator and ammonia-detoxifier. Safestart contains cycling bacteria to help kickstart the nitrogen cycle.


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## JCE

Ok Hallyx, I use the prime and so far so good. I was thinking about a bubbler I hope a small one. I'll see if he likes it . I find a paper towel across the surface is pretty gpood. The film is mostly just before I change water and then of course it's less. 
You are really the go to person, thanks. J


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## Andreacarolina87

Thank you Hallyx! Now, if I'm already done with my cycle and I want to replace the activated carbon cartridge for a black foam filter. How do I do this without loosing most of my BB that's already on the cartridge? Would I experience a mini cycle or do I have to start cycling again with the black foam filter?


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## Hallyx

The bacteria first grow rapidly in the filter, then spread throughout the tank into the substrate, walls, plants and decor. This is called "establishing" the cycle. 

In a few weeks, replace the cartridge with the AQ sponge and stuff the old filter pad (minus the carbon) inside, if you have the room -- if not, strap it to the intake. 

Keep an eye on your readings. But a mini-cyle is no big deal. You may not even notice one. At least that's been my experience.

JCE, I forgot to mention: That film is a sign of excess organics. Vacuum the tank really well with every water change. Feed sparingly with high-quality food. This promotes more complete digestion which will cut down on organics. Live plants help too.


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## JCE

Hi Hallyx, I am feeding only Omega One Betta pellets, two morning and evening. I do vacuum but without moving everything, of course, it is not really "clean". Do you ever take the fish out and clean the gravel at least with tank water?. My readings are so good I hate to disturb too much. What do you use to vacuum, mine is just a gravity tube.


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## Hallyx

You're doing fine, JCE. I was just mentioning all the finicky little things I could think of. 

Here's what I use to vacuum/siphon my tanks.

50-cent siphon 

For >5g tanks I use one size larger tubing.


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## JCE

OK, I guess long as Nutmeg is happy, and he is, I will just keep doing what I'm doing. You have been so swell for your newer S. Thanks again. Here is Nutmeg my beauty. JCE


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## Andreacarolina87

Hello again Hallyx,

I vacuumed my gravel yesterday and performed a 25% water change. My tank was cycled and I believe I am experiencing a mini cycle because this morning my nitrite spiked from 0 to 0.25

I added prime. Moreover, can moving the gravel around for planting harm my cycle or perhaps produce too much Co2? I have an Eco complete gravel. 

Thank you!


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## Andreacarolina87

Lastly, my nitrate is 1.0 even though I performed a water change yesterday and I see some brown algae on my Amazon swords.


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## Hallyx

See -- not much of a mini-cycle. 

Disturbing the substrate _may _stir up and release some organics, but nothing your cycle can't handle.

You should be reading a slight increase in nitrate. That's one sign your cycle is working.

The brown "algae" is actually diatoms -- quite common in new tanks. Just wipe it off. Eventually it will go away. Nerite snails love that stuff.


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## Andreacarolina87

Hallyx said:


> See -- not much of a mini-cycle.
> 
> Disturbing the substrate _may _stir up and release some organics, but nothing your cycle can't handle.
> 
> You should be reading a slight increase in nitrate. That's one sign your cycle is working.
> 
> The brown "algae" is actually diatoms -- quite common in new tanks. Just wipe it off. Eventually it will go away. Nerite snails love that stuff.



Thank you! I did read nerite snails are good algae eaters. However, the cons I see with them is that they lay eggs around the tank specially on the glass and wood (which is even harder to remove).


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## SimplyXt

What a superb thread- thanks so much for all the information! Now to find a thread that explains all the reading numbers (nitrates, nirates etc) as simply as this &#55357;&#56836;


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## SimplyXt

Just a quick question - at what point do you do your tests? Is it best to test at the same time every day? Obviously before a water change so that you can determine whether or not a change is necessary?


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## Hallyx

I'm not convinced that test results are the only, or even the best, criteria for determining a water change schedule. There are so many other good reasons to make regular (weekly?) water changes part of routine maintenance.

http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/freshwater-general-articles/regular-partial-water-changes-188641/

http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/...al-solids-tss-tds-freshwater-aquarium-188697/

It is always good to take a reading just before changing water.


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## BettaBeau

Hallyx, I read the article on TSS and TDS, and I recently purchased a meter to measure TDS (haven't used it yet). Is there a level of TDS that, when it exceeds that number, that one should change the water? The article said that freshwater has less than 1500 mg/l, but should one let it get even that high? If the answer is in that article, I missed it... :question:


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## Hallyx

Byron is addressing that issue in an overall sense, and applying it to pet fish in general. I try not to get too deep, because I mostly advise newer keepers.

RussellTheShihTzu is really knowledgeable on TDS. It would be great if you could ask her on the forum and have her answer recorded for future reference. This thread would be great for that.


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## Thepurplegypsy

This thread is genius! I've never done cycling before, and Hallyxs' post really helped me! I have a male Betta and some Ramshorn snails and few plants in a 3 gallon tank. I just finished cycling it in 1 week! I'm so happy! Thank you so much Hallyx!
I have a few questions tho. Just to clarify things..
1. What if my filter cartridge broke and changed my filter, should I do the cycling again?
2. Should I test the water again every water change?
3. Would the water change if I add more soil and plants?
4. and I've read about the activated carbon, should I add some activated carbon inside my filter too? (I don't really know how it works. lol)

(You might have answered all of these questions. But I might have not understood it very clearly because I'm a newbie. and sorry for my english)

THANK YOU!


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## Hallyx

What are your readings right now? A week is a really short time for a cycle, even with bottled live bacteria.

I'm not sure how a filter cartridge can break. If you need to replace your cartridge because it's falling apart (that's the only reason to change media), you should run both the new and old media together in the filter (or close to it) for a couple weeks to transfer some of the bacteria.

No need to test after a change. But you might do it once or twice and see if you learn anything.

The water would remain the same. But with more plants in there, more of the ammonia will be removed by the plants and less by the bacteria.

I believe carbon serves no useful purpose in a Betta tank.

Welcome to the forum.


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## Thepurplegypsy

right now? pH is 7.8.. Ammonia is 0ppm. Nitrite is 0ppm. Nitrate is 10 ppm. I tried to test it everyday since last thursday. and it has been the same ever since.. lol. I did a 30% water change yesterday tho. and I tested it earlier, and it's still the same.. but I have a little bit of a problem with my betta right now. lol. I just noticed that his fins are curling.. >_<


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## Hallyx

Those are the readings of a cycled tank. That was really fast, partly due to the slightly high pH resulting from the water hardness/mineral content.

That hardness may be why his fins are starting to curl. Try some driftwood, or Indian Almond Leaf (IAL) or Rooibos tea to see if they tannins they release will lower your pH a little.

7.8 pH is not excessively high. Many members keep Betta for a long time at >8.0pH, in good health with no problems.


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## Thepurplegypsy

I was actually surprised that it worked too.. I just followed your instructions. Hahahah!

oh ok. My local pet store gave me this water conditioner tho. it says it reduces pH value. It's a black water extract. lemme take a picture..


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## Hallyx

Black water extract is bottled tannins, exactly what you need. It will turn your water tea or beer colored. It may look strange to you, but the fish love it.

Stay away from pH Up or Down products.


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## SeemsFishy

Ordered my Seachem Prime, gravel vacuum, and master test kit. Thank you for an informative thread!


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## Hallyx

That's the right stuff. In the meantime, keep up with your water changes.

Welcome to the forum.


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## Wildsho

Hello hallyx, im following this guide with fish in cycle, just have a question, would i need to do gravel cleaning while its cycling?, there is also live plants in the 10g tank.


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## Hallyx

A 10g tank will cycle almost automatically. Just do your normal routine 25% to 33% water change every week, including gravel vacuuming, and test for ammonia a couple times a week. Add Prime only if you see ammonia. But, then, a water change is called for.

Your tank will cycle and you may see little or no signs of it happening. That's one of the nice things about a 10g.

After the tank is cycled, if you decide to add snails shrimp or tankmates, follow the suggestions in the tutorial. Everything will go just as smoothly.


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## Wildsho

okay, should i stop adding prime then? is only been a week since fish is in there and ive added prime everyday just like the guide states.


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## Hallyx

The Prime is to detoxify residual ammonia: the amount left after a water change, or the small amount that doesn't call for a water change, yet. A few drops every day doesn't hurt, and it removes stress from both the fish and the keeper.


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## Wildsho

Hey hally, i just did a test and ph was at 6.4 last week it was reading 7.2, and the nitates are still on 0, ive been doing gravel cleaning also, the test kit isnt faulty or old, what could be wrong?


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## Hallyx

Test your tapwater pH at 12-hour intervals. Test the tank at 12-hour intervals.

Test your tapwater every week for a while. Sometimes the supply differs depending on circumstances that vary.

What stage is your cycle?


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## Wildsho

well im not sure its been running with the fish in there for 3 weeks now and 0 ammonia and no nitritre and no nitrates. does the flourish for plants effect ph?


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## PuppyMintMocha

Hi! I've been following this tutorial for my 5g for about a week, maybe a day or two more. The tank is two months old, and currently only has two snails in it (there was a betta until just recently). I did a large water change before starting the cycling tutorial, and have done a small water change once since, and will be doing another one tomorrow or the day after. It's been a few days since the small water change, and the nitrates read under 20, nitrites read 0, and ammonia reads under 0.25. Is it cycled? or does the ammonia have to be at a perfect 0 to call it cycled? Or does it look like something went wrong, or should I just continue with the daily Prime?


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## Wildsho

if it still reads 0.25 it is not cycled, continue it a bit longer with the prime, its better to keep the fish safe then be sorry.


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## SSue

Hi there!

So I've had my betta Freddie in a 2.5g tank for about 9 months. I use Prime every day and change about 1/3 of his water every week. I have never had his ammonia reach 0ppm(usually the API test shows a slight green tinge), but his Nitrite and Nitrate are always 0ppm. He's at 78-80 degrees and I suction out the poop and uneaten food every couple of days. I have the Nat.Geo 2.5 Half-Moon Oasis tank. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong to the poor little guy. He seems very happy though.









*BUT.*.. i just bought the 5.6 Fluval Spec. I was away from home for a couple of days, so I haven't moved him yet. I have the Seachem Fluorite Black Sand substrate and a couple of plants in the new tank. 









I'm planning on testing the water today and adding some new plants and finding him a decoration to hide behind

Should I move Freddie and follow the 50% daily water change when ammonia is >0.5ppm just to get him out of his small tank? I'm really afraid of cycling the tank with him in it and accidentally killing him.


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## ryry2012

SSue said:


> Hi there!
> 
> So I've had my betta Freddie in a 2.5g tank for about 9 months. I use Prime every day and change about 1/3 of his water every week. I have never had his ammonia reach 0ppm(usually the API test shows a slight green tinge), but his Nitrite and Nitrate are always 0ppm. He's at 78-80 degrees and I suction out the poop and uneaten food every couple of days. I have the Nat.Geo 2.5 Half-Moon Oasis tank. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong to the poor little guy. He seems very happy though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BUT.*.. i just bought the 5.6 Fluval Spec. I was away from home for a couple of days, so I haven't moved him yet. I have the Seachem Fluorite Black Sand substrate and a couple of plants in the new tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning on testing the water today and adding some new plants and finding him a decoration to hide behind
> 
> Should I move Freddie and follow the 50% daily water change when ammonia is >0.5ppm just to get him out of his small tank? I'm really afraid of cycling the tank with him in it and accidentally killing him.


I have both tanks. It's not your fault that your 2.5 g is not cycled. Mine got a Nitrite spike even after I thought it was cycled. It looks nice but hard to cycle IMO. Filter medias are where most benefitial bacteria live. The tank got a small cartridge that needs to be changed once in a while. I used the cartridge until it started falling apart. But it did spread lint in the surface... You are doing great job keeping the water clean and stay your boy happy :smile2:


I love my Spec V. It is stylish and got a big filter sponge. A big sponge means more room for benefitial bacteria to thrive. I replaced the activated carbon with Seachem Purigen in a bag though. I also replaced the light. It's a personal preference. I like bright lights.


Why don't you try fish-in cycle? When I got my Spec V, I did fish-in cycle and it was easy. What I did was to test water twice or three times a week, dose 11 drops of Prime everyday, and do weekly 50% water change. It never caused a problem. Currently, mine is moderately planted with Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 10. You can have Nitrate up to 20 ppm, but never over 20. If it gets over 20, it's time to do some water change.


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## Warlandra

Ok fresh newbie here! This post is so very helpful I thank you so much. I just have a couple questions. 

I have a new tank which was set up on the 31st of March, I bought Aqueon Betta Bowl Plus which claims to neutralize chlorine, chloramines, ammonia and heavy metals. I also bought TopFin Bacteria supplement, and placed them both accordingly into my 3.5 gallon tank. I'm using the filter that came with the tank, which after placing a baffle on the outlet and filter sponge on the inlet works fine for my new Betta. Are either of these products good for cycling or should I discard them and only use this Prime stuff? I bought the bacteria supplement thinking it would help to boost this bacteria in the filter media. 

And if these are good for cycling, how should I use them for my tank? They do not have instructions on them for cycling only for starting an aquarium, and the weekly water changes.


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## Ilikemybetta

how long will it take to cycle a ten gallon tank?


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## CollegeBettas

With bacteria in a bottle, about 2 weeks, without it takes maybe a month to a month and a half. I used bottled bacteria when I did mine and now I just use seeded media.


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## Hallyx

Aqueon Bettabowl Plus is a complete and effective water conditioner. Use it up, then replace with Prime. 

Topfin bacteria is not so effective. Just follow the tutorial.

With a 10g tank and weekly 25% water changes, the tank will eventually cycle. In the mean time, there will be so little ammonia build-up that your fish will be safe with just a few daily drops of Prime.


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## Oreo4me

You can add the Prime while the fish is in your tank.. right?


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## ryry2012

Oreo4me said:


> You can add the Prime while the fish is in your tank.. right?


Yes. Add and stir. It's better to use a pipette or an eye dropper to dose in a small tank.


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## Geekysoprano

I just want to say that this guide is fantastic. Thank you so much for including it. For a new 2.5 gallon tank, I've been testing ammonia every 3 days and doing 25% changes (the reading has consistently been between .25 and .5, but will definitely be checking daily now and upping the change), have also been adding SeaChem Stability daily.

It's good to know that the Aqueon Betta Bowl Plus is okay as a water conditioner, I was concerned that it was the issue and that I should replace it with Prime immediately. 

Making the following plan:
1.) Test ammonia daily
2.) 50% change if ammonia still between .25 and .5
3.) Add water conditioner 
4.) Add Stability
5.) Keep adding water conditioner and Stability, even once ammonia down to 0.

Thanks again!


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## RaeRae

Hallyx said:


> That's right. Adding more livestock increases the bioload which then needs more bacteria to oxidize the increased ammonia. The slight ammonia spike that sometimes happens is called a "mini-cycle." Adding Prime @ 2-drops/gal daily keeps the ammonia safely locked until the bacteria colonies grow to balance the new bioload.
> 
> Alternatively, you can fishless cycle a filter in a separate container, then install it in the display tank, which would then be effectively cycled. This is called a "bucket cycle."


Is this how external cycle tanks for bettas work? I was curious if worth doing an exernal cycle to add two fish to a new divided tank. Is there a process for the external cycle or bucket method that you mention?

Also, on the prime drops, should you be adding prime daily if you are in-fish cycling and changing the watever every other day? Is it better to just add prime with the water change or does the drops of prime allow for more bacteria to grow since not changing as frequently? I have a 3.5 g tank for that question. 

thanks!


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## tianikki

Hello... I'm about to cycle my 2.5 without my betta. He has been sick for a while and I currently have him quarantined in a 1 gal and its going strong! 

I heard digging some fish food into the substrate can help produce bacteria necessary to cycle the tank. Can i do that instead of purchasing bacteria? 

When you mention the 50% water change and then adding the prime... even though the tank already has prime in it, do I still add a NEW dose of 2 drops per gal again? 

Also, does this apply to regular water changes? Ie, I do a 25% water change and add another dose of prime of 2 drops per gal? I mean, the dose resets because I'm changing water?

Would adding the dirty water from the wate change of my 1 gal mixed with regular water help cycling faster?

Lastly, everyday I do a water change and that dose of prime as said above for 10-14 days? It doesn't have to be that time frame, right? If everything is clean, I can add my betta, no?

Thanks!


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## RussellTheShihTzu

There is a difference between fish-in and fishless cycling. What you seem to be wanting to do is fishless. There's a separate sticky for that.


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