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Betta ate fin/broke fin bone

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6K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  RussellTheShihTzu  
#1 ·
Hi,
Today I was feeing my betta Zoomy and when he was eating he somehow bit his tail and got it stuck in his mouth. I am guessing he swallowed it on accident and started panicking hitting the edges of the tank and going crazy. His top fin was bent over the top of his head into his mouth. He finally got his fin loose but in the process the top of his fin looks shredded and was bloody. He also broke the top bone on his top fin (so it appears). After this happened he was really still and acted really wierd but now a few hours later is acting normal again. What should I do? Will he get an infection and die? One of his fin bones is borken! Can I do anything to help him?
Thanks!:-(
 
#4 ·
Betta fish are notorious fin and tail biters. Unfortunately, this very thing happens all the time - though most of the time it is on purpose. My guess is since that it happened while he was eating his regular food, he wasn't expecting the pain and based on your description of his reaction, it hurt him - a lot.
The best thing you can do is keep his water warm and clean. Doing a treatment of aquarium salt (designed specifically for freshwater fish and meant to be used for 14 days Max) will also help keep it from getting infected and heal a little faster.
What size tank do you have? How often do you clean it? And what is the temperature?
 
#6 ·
I have a smaller tank of 1/2 a gallon. I got it at Petsmart.
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12171515&f=PAD%2FpsNotAvailInUS%2FNo

I clean out the bottom (the excess food and wastes) everyday and do 2 water changes a week 3/4 of the tank. I feed him flakes 3 times a day Monday -Friday. I work at a hospital and unfortunately it gets pretty cold. I am not allowed to have a heater for him and am unsure of the temp.

I heard this was good for fins too and was going to pick this up after work:
http://www.petsmart.com/product/ind...m/product/index.jsp?productId=3295906&lmdn=Fish+Feeding&f=PAD/psNotAvailInUS/No
 
#9 · (Edited)
Betta fish are tropical fish and need a minimum of 76 degrees to be healthy (warmer is better but not higher than about 82). His tail will not heal very fast in cold water, and he may get infected. Also, a 1/2 gallon is really too small for a Betta. The general rule for all fish is 1 gallon Minimum for every inch of fish. Betta fish generally get to be 2 to 2 1/2 inches long, so you would need a 2.5 gallon minimum tank for him.

Also, most cats aren't a threat to your fish, unless you don't have a lid. If you don't have a lid, you should get one because Betta fish are notorious jumpers (I know from experience) and can and will jump out of their tank for any varying reasons. My uncle had two cats along with a whole tank of fish and never had a problem.
 
#7 ·
You said you were not allowed to get a heater. Why is this? I really reccomend getting a heater. It will lower his risk of infection/disease. I have the hydor theo origional 25 watt. It has wonderful reviews, and so far it has been doing great in my ten gallon.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-25W-Submersible-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374528956&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+theo+25

Also, I really think you should get a better tank. It sounds like you are doing the frequent water changes needed in a tank that size, but having a bigger tank will make sure that the water parameters are much less likely to fluctuate in parameters like ammonia or nitrate and temperature. It will also give your fish more space, thus reducing stress (which is a cause of tail-biting).

Many people believe that a 2.5 gallon or even a 5.5 gallon, and sometimes even a ten gallon, should be the minimum tank size for a betta. A 5 gallon has a very small footprint if you are concerned about size, and it would be great for your fish.

Good luck!
 
#8 ·
I am not allowed to plug anything in or leave anything running at work. The fish was a gift for my bday from my co-workers and unfortunatly this is the largest tank that will fit at my desk. I cannot take the fish home because I have a cat! I try to make it up to him by buying different sceneries and changing out small props. I clean his cage with a pipet every day to so its squeaky clean!
 
#10 ·
I will try to get a larger tank if my boss lets me. Also, since I cannot get a heater for the tank how can I keep it warm? Do I change out half of the water each day with a bit warmer water to make it the optimal temp or will that shock him?
 
#11 ·
No, that will shock him and could kill him. If you get a thermometer that will at least let you know what the temperature is. A lamp over the tank can help, but then it won't stay consistent unless you keep it on all the time. Some people wrap their tanks in warm towels when there is a power outage, but again, that won't be consistent unless you are there all the time to change out the towels.
Even though you have a cat at home, you might have better luck keeping him healthy at home.
 
#13 ·
I'd just like to pop in and comment about the 'Gallon per Inch' rule. Its generally alright to apply this when we're talking about small fish species, generally anything under three inches like Tetras or in this case Bettas as well, but by no means should this rule apply to all fish, even as a minimum, or be any more then a basic starting guideline for small fish species.....if it were anything more then it would mean, say, a 10 inch Oscar could fit in a 10 gallon tank which it, of course, couldn't.
Its important also, even with smaller fish species, to take into account activity level, bioload, the actual dimensions of the tank itself and how it relates to the species particular needs, and whether or not that particular species likes to have company or not.

This rule is alright when applied to Bettas as, while they are active and generally enjoy however much space you can give them, are a small solitary species who can do just fine by themselves in anything 2.5 gallons+ long term and don't require filtration thanks to their labyrinth organ which allows them to breath from the surface and live in low-oxygen waters, but I just don't want anyone getting the wrong idea about this rule. A lot more then just size factors into selecting a properly sized aquarium for any fish. ;)

That aside, I can only agree with the advice already given. Your little guy isn't going to heal up very well in a little cold half gallon, and so long as you can find or make some kind of cover for his setup you shouldn't have much trouble keeping him at home with your cat, and especially if you can provide him with something larger and heated at home its going to be a lot better for him and his long-term health.

Personally though, I'd advise against any kind of treatment right away, even salt. He doesn't look like he has much damage in the picture, and once he is in a proper, warm, clean environment that should heal up all on its own without you having to resort to a salt treatment.
You'll want to avoid Bettafix, or any 'fix' really, just period for anything though. Don't bother wasting the money on it, it contains tea tree oil which can coat a bettas labyrinth organ and actually cause them to drown. Unfortunately, one of the many horrible things marketed to bettas :(
 
#14 ·
That's why I said it was a general rule, it doesn't apply to all fish, but it's a good guide for small fish. I personally have both my Bettas in their own 5 gallon tanks. My husband won't allow anything smaller than 5 gallon tanks for our fish, so they each have their own nice 5 gallon home.
 
#15 ·
You did say in a previous post "The general rule for all fish is 1 gallon Minimum for every inch of fish.", so I just wanted to point it out and elaborate a little further so that anyone possibly reading that that didn't know any better didn't take it the wrong way and forget to think about the other factors involved. I've just seen that mistake made a lot by many a new keeper is all. :)
But kudos on the awesome husband who cares so much about your fish by the way! I can only hope to one day get my girlfriend a little more involved with my fish. xD
 
#16 ·
I really think that the best thing to do is take it home. I have a cat and fish, and if you put your tank on a shelf the cat can't get to, or get a big enough tank that the cat can't tip it and get a lid, you will be fine. I even see pics of cats sleeping on top of fish tanks. If you won't take him home, and can't properly take care of him at work, you should rehome him to someone who can provide the proper care.
 
#17 ·
If you are interested in taking your Betta home, Wal-Mart has an in-store 10 gallon kit for under $30. You'd still need a thermometer and heater. This is much cheaper than smaller kits. And, the advantage is if you decide you enjoy Bettas, you can divide the tank and keep the same footprint.

As for cats, it's at everyone else has said: A lid/hood and you're good to go; especially if you have a 10 gallon. The upside is it will keep your cat occupied. There are some really neat photos on this site of cats enjoying their Bettas. :)

Unfortunately, I know from experience Betta fins do not heal in unheated/underheated tanks. The Hydor pre-set thermometers went out and I didn't notice. The result was ragged fins that would not heal. Si is now in a heated tank and already there's a marked difference....in just a little over a week...and there's no treatment other than clean, warm water.

BTW, how cool that your co-workers think enough of you that the gifted you on your birthday with such a beautiful Betta!
 
#18 ·
I think it would be a much better idea to take your new buddy home and get him a heater. He should be fine for now since it is summer, but these fish really do need to be kept warm. Most cats will not bother your fish. I have four of them and they couldn't care less about my bettas.

As for his injury, just keep doing his water changes and add API Stress Coat to the water each time. In addition, having a warm, consistent temp for the water will help him heal faster.
 
#19 · (Edited)
I agree with the posts above, and do not get bettafix, its a watered down version of melafix and can be harmful for your betta. I have it myself and before found out, I added a single drop instead of the full dose and Muse was significantly less active, I immediately did a 100% water change to get rid of it. She perked up right away.
 
#20 ·
I got a thermometer yesterday and the water is 72 or 73 degrees. Did you say its suppose to be 76 or will this be ok? I guess I will not get bettafix and wait a few days to see how he is doing for the aquarium salt.
 
#21 ·
Hey i just want also to pop in with my advice
Do not use bettafix it bad for betta labyrinth organs.
Usually with clean water the fins should heal , and like someone already said some bettas are tail biters and can even do it on regular basis. And if he does you just need to keep him in super clean water, and you can not treat him every time he bites it.
You can use Aquarium salt if he will develop fin rot-dark or discolored edges that are ''smudged'',bloody tips, getting shorter, falling apart, large part of the tail just drop off, ragged edges, fins have been looking frayed.

But now since we know that it biting just clean water is good. You don't want to stress him out with medications or even salt. Just clean water.

Also stress coat if you have a chance to buy it. It has Aloe Vera and good for healing.

As for aquarium salt i would just buy it so you have it on hands if you need it. But give us update if you think his fins are getting worse and he has infection. Do not follow the aq salt box instructions . The instructions just for preventative care and it is not therapeutic dose at all.

I am apologize if i repeat what you guys already said.
 
#22 ·
The water should be at 78 or 80 degrees. 76 is not warm enough. I am glad you got a thermometer, but you really need a heater. I recommend the Hydor Origional Theo 25 watt heater. I have not read a bad review on it, and I have it myself for my ten gallon.
 
#23 ·
76 is a little on the cool side, but its better then 72. However, the sweet spot you want to shoot for is 78-82 degrees long-term, but you'll only be able to get that in a slightly larger home with an aquarium heater(preferably the fully submersible, adjustable kind....present heaters are very unreliable). No other heat source is reliable or stable enough to keep the water in the proper range without drastic fluctuations, which can be extremely stressful for your little guy and compromise his immune system.

I would suggest holding off on the salt until you can get him in a heated, properly sized environment. A Salt treatment isn't going to do him any good in the cold water, and you want to see how he heals and recovers on his own in a proper environment(which he will just fine with his small amount of fin damage, its only if things get infected and start looking blackened/dead that you have to start thinking about treatments)before jumping into treatment. Aquarium Salt is like a mild sort of medication, so you want to think of it like that.....no need to use in unnecessarily when things can sort themselves out on their own.